Wisteria Balcony Bunny – Crochet

This sweet collectible set features a soft bunny dressed in lavender layers, a flower-trimmed sun hat, a cascading wisteria accent, a tiny watering can, a small bouquet, and a companion puppy in matching clothes. It has the charm of a handmade heirloom and the polished look many shoppers seek in an amigurumi bunny doll, spring bunny decor, and luxury crochet plush gift.

The finished pieces are ideal for nursery shelf styling, seasonal display, boutique handmade toy collections, and gift-ready spring decor. The delicate color palette, layered dress silhouette, and floral accessories give the whole set the feel of a premium artisan crochet doll, collectible bunny plush, and floral amigurumi set that people often search for when browsing for handmade gift ideas.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny color: light cream or warm ivory yarn
• Dress and hat color: soft pastel lavender yarn
• Accent flower shades: mauve, lilac, violet, dusty pink
• Leaf and stem shade: sage green
• Puppy brown: medium warm brown
• Puppy cream: ivory or light cream
• Nose and facial embroidery: pale beige, soft brown, and black embroidery thread
• Hook sizes: one primary hook suitable for tight amigurumi fabric and one slightly smaller hook for fine flowers if desired
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
• Safety eyes: glossy black for bunny, smaller black eyes for puppy
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Small button: for the watering can
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas: optional for reinforcing the hat brim and bag base if you want more structure

Yarn and Fabric Notes

Use a yarn weight that produces a dense, smooth fabric with no visible stuffing gaps. The image shows tight stitches and firm shaping, so work with a hook smaller than the yarn label may recommend. The bunny should feel structured, not floppy, especially at the neck, belly, and head.

The dress, hat, collar, puppy cape, bouquet, and hanging flowers all benefit from crisp stitch definition. Mercerized cotton or a cotton blend works beautifully for this look because it holds the scallops, petals, brim, and layered skirt lines cleanly.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• inc = 2 sc in same stitch unless stated otherwise
• dec = invisible decrease
• FLO = front loop only
• BLO = back loop only
• rep = repeat
• st = stitch

Finished Size

The main bunny is designed as a standing display doll with a large round head, long soft ears, short arms, sturdy slightly tapered legs, and a bell-shaped layered dress. Depending on yarn and tension, the bunny will be approximately 11 to 14 inches tall from foot to top of hat.

The puppy is much smaller, around one quarter of the bunny’s height. The watering can should reach roughly from the bunny’s ankle to just below the knee. The bouquet is short and hand-sized, while the hat brim extends beyond the head enough to frame the face and support the draped flowers.

Design Overview

This set is built from several coordinated pieces. The bunny body is made first, then the dress is worked as a separate garment with a shaped bodice, layered skirt bands, and a petal collar. The hat is a separate piece with an attached floral vine.

The wisteria effect is essential to the overall look. The flowers should not sit flat like ordinary appliqués. Instead, they need to hang in small clustered strands from the hat and spill down the front waist of the dress in a vertical cascade.

The tiny puppy repeats the same visual language. It wears a lavender hat, a floral dress or tunic, and a short capelet tied at the neck. The matching styling is what makes the whole composition feel complete.

Main Bunny Head

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts.
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts.
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts.
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) around. 36 sts.
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) around. 42 sts.
8. Round 8: (6 sc, inc) around. 48 sts.
9. Round 9: (7 sc, inc) around. 54 sts.
10. Rounds 10-18: sc around.

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The head in the image is rounded and slightly full through the cheeks, not narrow or elongated. Keep the shaping soft and symmetrical. Place the eyes lower than center so the forehead appears taller and the expression looks gentle and childlike.

11. Insert safety eyes between Rounds 13 and 14 with 9 to 11 visible stitches between them, depending on your scale.
12. Round 19: (7 sc, dec) around. 48 sts.
13. Round 20: sc around.
14. Round 21: (6 sc, dec) around. 42 sts.
15. Round 22: (5 sc, dec) around. 36 sts.
16. Begin stuffing firmly, especially around cheeks and forehead.
17. Round 23: (4 sc, dec) around. 30 sts.
18. Round 24: (3 sc, dec) around. 24 sts.
19. Round 25: (2 sc, dec) around. 18 sts.

Do not close the head yet if you prefer to join it later to the body with a neck opening. If you work head and body separately, leave a long tail. The image shows a stable neck under the cape collar, so reinforce this area well.

Facial Embroidery for the Bunny

Embroider a tiny triangular nose in pale beige or soft blush-beige centered two rounds below the eyes. Add a very short vertical line and a minimal split mouth. Keep the face delicate. Heavy lines will change the soft expression.

The cheeks in the image are subtle. You may lightly brush pastel or add the faintest blush tone, but do not overdo it. The doll’s charm comes from clean simplicity: glossy eyes, tiny nose, small mouth, and smooth face.

Main Bunny Ears

Make 2 in cream.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: (sc, inc) around. 9 sts.
3. Round 3: sc around.
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. 12 sts.
5. Rounds 5-18: sc around.
6. Round 19: (4 sc, dec) around. 10 sts.
7. Rounds 20-24: sc around.
8. Flatten lightly and close with a few stitches, leaving a long tail.

The ears should be long, flat, and softly padded or even left mostly unstuffed. In the image, they hang straight down beside the face and reach to the upper torso. Sew them slightly behind the side eye line so they frame the cheeks naturally.

Angle the top of each ear outward just a little before letting the length fall down. This creates the relaxed droop seen in the photo and prevents the ears from covering too much of the face.

Main Bunny Arms

Make 2 in cream.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rounds 3-4: sc around.
4. Round 5: (4 sc, dec) twice. 10 sts.
5. Rounds 6-16: sc around.
6. Lightly stuff only the lower half.
7. Flatten top opening and close with 4 to 5 stitches.

The arms are short, slim, and slightly curved inward. Keep them narrow and understated. They should hang just below the waistline area of the dress and stop around the upper skirt tier.

Main Bunny Legs

Make 2 in cream.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts.
4. Rounds 4-5: sc around.
5. Round 6: (4 sc, dec) around. 15 sts.
6. Rounds 7-18: sc around.
7. Stuff firmly from foot upward.

The feet in the photo are covered by sandals, so they do not need exaggerated shaping. A rounded foot base and straight lower leg are enough. Make sure both legs are equal in length because the bunny is shown standing upright.

Main Bunny Body

Join the legs.

1. After finishing the second leg, ch 3 and join to the first leg.
2. Round 1: sc around first leg, across chain, around second leg, across opposite side of chain. Adjust for an even total of 36 to 40 sts depending on your leg size.
3. Rounds 2-4: sc around.
4. Round 5: place 2 decreases evenly at inner thigh if needed.
5. Rounds 6-9: sc around.

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The lower body should be softly rounded but not overly wide because the dress adds volume. Build a compact torso with a gentle tummy and a narrower upper chest. This helps the separate dress sit smoothly and creates the same silhouette as the image.

6. Round 10: (4 sc, dec) around or adjust to reduce slightly.
7. Rounds 11-13: sc around.
8. Round 14: (3 sc, dec) around.
9. Rounds 15-17: sc around.
10. Round 18: work a few more decreases evenly to form the upper torso and neck base.
11. Stuff firmly.

If joining the head directly, continue with a neck opening that matches the head base. Add a neck support made from a rolled piece of plastic canvas, cotton swab stem, or tightly packed stuffing column. This bunny must support the large hat comfortably.

Joining Head, Body, Arms, and Ears

Sew the head centered on the body with the face looking straight ahead. The image shows a calm forward-facing posture, so avoid a tilted head. Attach arms at the upper body sides just below the neck area.

Sew the ears to the head after checking them with the hat in place. Their final position matters because the brim sits low. The ears should emerge beneath the brim and drop in full view, not be hidden entirely behind the head.

Bunny Shoes and Sandals

The shoes are open at the front and look like delicate lavender sandals with cream toes visible. Make 2 soles in lavender or a slightly dusty pink-lavender, then add slim straps.

Sole

1. Ch 7.
2. Work around the chain in oval form: 5 sc, 3 sc in last st, 4 sc on opposite side, 2 sc in first st.
3. Next round: increase at toe and heel ends to form a neat oval.
4. Make the sole just wide enough for the foot base.

Upper Straps

• Join yarn at one side of sole.
• Ch enough to cross over the foot.
• Anchor on opposite side.
• Add a second ankle strap or small back loop if desired.

Keep the sandals flat and decorative. The bunny in the image is a display doll, so the sandals do not need complex shaping. What matters is the neat open-toe look and the soft match with the dress.

Layered Dress

The dress is one of the most important features. It has a fitted upper bodice, short sleeves or sleeve caps blended into the shoulder line, and a full layered skirt made with horizontal tier bands. The overall color is a uniform lavender, with floral trimming only at the collar and waist cascade.

Dress Bodice

Work from the neckline downward as a separate garment, trying it on the bunny as you go.

1. Ch a foundation chain that fits around the bunny neck comfortably.
2. Join without twisting.
3. Round 1: sc or hdc around for a neat neckline.
4. Rounds 2-4: increase slightly at front and back shoulder points to create a cape-like shoulder spread.
5. Rounds 5-7: continue evenly until the yoke covers the top of the chest and upper back.

The bodice in the photo is smooth and modest, with no visible openings in front. You can create the dress as a back-buttoned or back-seamed piece if easier. Keep the front plain so the hanging flowers remain the focal point.

Skirt Section

1. After the bodice reaches underarm depth, separate for arm openings if needed.
2. Continue around the body in dc or hdc to build the skirt.
3. Work the skirt in gentle increases to create an A-line flare.
4. Every 3 to 4 rounds, add a texture band by working one round in BLO.
5. Continue until the skirt reaches ankle level.

The visible skirt has three strong tier impressions created by horizontal ridges rather than separate ruffles. To match this, do not add dramatic frills. Instead, use evenly spaced BLO rounds or slightly raised transition rounds that create clean horizontal bands.

The skirt should widen gradually so it falls in a bell shape. The lower edge must sit just above the sandals. That proportion is important because the feet remain visible at the front in the image.

Dress Hem

• Final round: sc around for stability.
• Optional next round: very small shell or picot edging if you want a softly finished hem, but keep it understated.

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Petal Collar

The collar is wide and rounded, forming separate pointed petals around the shoulders. It sits on top of the dress and frames the face. Around the outer edge are tiny flower accents in pink and purple.

1. Ch a neckline-length foundation matching the dress opening.
2. Work 2 to 3 rows of sc or hdc, increasing slightly to let the collar spread flat.
3. On the final outer edge, shape petals by repeating: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st across small stitch groups.
4. Adjust petal width so the finished collar forms about 6 to 8 broad rounded points across the visible front and shoulders.

For the little blossoms on the collar, sew tiny puff flowers or rosettes at the tip of each front petal. Use two shades, mostly mauve and pink, to copy the image. Keep them small so the collar still reads as a collar first.

Waist Wisteria Cascade

This detail falls from the right side of the bunny’s waist and drapes vertically down the skirt. It includes leaves, clusters, and several hanging flower strands in lilac, dusty pink, and deep violet. This piece gives the dress its signature identity.

Base Leaf Cluster

• Make 4 to 6 leaves in sage green.
• Each leaf: ch 6, work back along the chain with sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st, then continue on the opposite side for a symmetrical leaf.
• Leave tails for sewing.

Wisteria Strands

Make multiple hanging strings in varied lengths. The image shows several dense drooping clusters rather than a single flat applique. Each strand should be built on a chain stem with tiny petals or bobbles worked along one side and partly around the tip.

1. For one strand, ch 12 to 22 depending on desired length.
2. Starting in second chain from hook, work alternating sl st and sc to create a narrow stem.
3. At intervals, add tiny petal clusters using combinations such as: ch 2, 3 dc cluster, sl st in next stem point.
4. Another option is: (sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, sl st) into the same point to form a tiny flower nub.
5. Make at least 7 to 10 strands in mixed lengths and colors.

Use more dusty pink and lilac in the center, with deeper violet strands near one outer side. This mimics the varied bunching in the photo. Sew the strands close together at the top so they appear to emerge as one floral bunch.

Attach the leaf cluster first, then sew the hanging strands underneath, allowing them to overlap. One or two small green trailing ends can extend lower than the flowers to echo natural stems.

Wide Brim Hat

The hat is soft, rounded, and slightly low on the forehead with a moderate brim that curves down at the edges. It is not floppy like a beach hat. It has a stable dome and a controlled brim that frames the face and flowers beautifully.

Hat Crown

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts.
4. Continue increasing evenly each round until the circle matches the crown width of the bunny head.
5. Work several rounds even to create the dome depth.

Test the hat on the head often. The crown should sit comfortably without stretching. It should cover the upper head and rest just above the eyes, leaving the whole face visible.

Hat Brim

1. When the crown depth is correct, begin increasing every 6 to 8 stitches around.
2. Continue for several rounds until the brim projects outward clearly.
3. On the final round, use a smaller hook or a firm finishing round to keep the brim from rippling too much.

The brim in the image dips at the sides where flowers hang from it. That effect comes partly from the weight of the embellishments, so the brim should begin slightly firm, then soften after decoration is attached.

Hat Vine, Flowers, and Hanging Clusters

The hat decoration wraps around the front half of the crown and brim edge. It includes a green vine, flat leaves, a few larger blossoms near the top front, and many draped wisteria clusters falling at both sides.

Green Vine

• Ch a long length to span the visible hat front.
• Work back with sl st or sc for a thicker stem.
• Sew gently in a curved line across the hat front.

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Leaves

Make several leaves in two sizes. Larger leaves sit on top of the crown band, while smaller leaves tuck between the blossoms and hanging strands. Use the same leaf method as the waist cluster but vary the chain length.

Larger Hat Blossoms

Make 3 to 5 flowers in mauve, lilac, and purple.

1. Start with a small ring.
2. Work 5 petals into the ring.
3. Each petal can be made with: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc.
4. Pull the center tight and flatten.

Keep the petals soft and slightly cupped. These flowers are not meant to dominate the hat. They simply anchor the hanging strands and give the arrangement more fullness.

Hanging Wisteria for the Hat

Use the same strand method as the waist cascade, but make more pieces and let some hang longer. The image shows generous clusters falling from both sides of the brim, especially the right side from the viewer’s perspective.

Sew the strands in grouped bunches under the vine line rather than spacing them evenly. Realistic bunching is what gives the arrangement its lush balcony-garden feel. Let some strands overlap the bunny ears.

Watering Can Bag

This charming extra looks like a tiny crocheted watering can with a long strap, top flap, and button. It rests on the ground at the bunny’s side and appears decorative rather than functional, though it may hold a tiny note or sachet.

Can Body

1. Start with an oval base in lavender.
2. Work several rounds upward evenly to form a cylindrical body.
3. Add a slight taper near the top if desired by placing one or two decreases.

Top Edge and Flap

• At the top opening, work one neat edging round.
• For the flap, join yarn at the back edge and work short rows of sc or hdc.
• Round off the flap end and sew on a small button at the front.

Spout, Handle, and Strap

• Spout: crochet a narrow tapered tube and sew it to one front side angled upward slightly.
• Handle: crochet a curved strip and attach from upper side to lower side.
• Long strap: chain to desired length and reinforce with sl st back across. Attach at both sides so it can drape from the bunny hand or lie on the ground as shown.

Keep the proportions sweet and compact. The can should read clearly as a watering can at a glance, so the spout and handle must be distinct even though the piece is small.

Loose Wisteria Bouquet

The bouquet on the bench is a small tied bunch of flowers in purple tones with green stems. It echoes the dress and hat decorations and helps complete the staged garden scene.

1. Make 5 to 7 short flower strands in lilac, dusty pink, and deep purple.
2. Create each on a short chain stem.
3. Make 2 or 3 extra green stems without petals.
4. Gather them together at the base.
5. Wrap with matching yarn and knot tightly.

Trim and hide ends neatly so the bouquet can lie flat. The tied area should be small and compact, just above the stem tips.

Puppy Companion Head

The puppy is tiny, sweet, and rounded, with brown ears and side head panels, a cream face, and a soft bear-like muzzle. Keep the expression simple and kind. This figure should feel coordinated with the bunny, not overly realistic.

Head

1. Begin in cream.
2. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
3. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
4. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts.
5. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts.
6. Rounds 5-8: sc around.

Insert small black eyes around the mid-face area. Embroider a tiny brown or black nose and short mouth detail. Add brown head panels or sew brown ears to create the patch-like look visible in the photo.

Ears

• Make 2 in brown.
• Work small oval drooping ears.
• Sew them low at the side of the head so they frame the face.

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Puppy Body, Arms, and Legs

Keep the body short and compact. The limbs are tiny and mostly hidden by clothing, so simple cylinders with rounded tips are enough. The puppy should stand upright or sit balanced for display.

• Arms: 2 small cream tubes, lightly stuffed
• Legs: 2 short cream legs with rounded feet
• Body: one small oval torso, slightly wider at the bottom

Join the parts securely and keep the proportions chubby. The puppy in the image is intentionally very cute and miniature, with a slightly oversized head and very small body.

Puppy Floral Dress

The puppy wears a tiny lavender and floral garment. To match the image, use a lavender base with a front floral panel or scattered tiny stitched blossoms in pink, green, and lilac. Keep the garment simple because of the scale.

1. Make a short bodice tube in lavender.
2. Add a lightly flared skirt with one increase round.
3. Decorate the front with tiny embroidered or crocheted flower accents.

Do not overbuild the dress. The puppy’s cape will sit over it, and too much bulk will make the figure look stiff.

Puppy Capelet

This piece mirrors the bunny collar but is shorter and more cape-like. It spreads over the shoulders and ties at the front with a lavender cord or bow.

1. Ch to fit around the puppy neck.
2. Work a few rows with increases so the cape spreads gently.
3. Finish the outer edge with petal or shell points.
4. Add tiny floral details in pastel shades.
5. Attach a tie cord at the front neckline.

Puppy Hat

The puppy hat is a miniature version of the bunny hat. Use lavender yarn for the crown and brim, then add a narrow pink or mauve trim band. Keep the brim modest so it does not overpower the tiny head.

• Small round crown
• Two to three rounds even for depth
• One to two increase rounds for a short brim
• Optional thin contrasting band

Arrangement and Placement Details

To capture the exact spirit of the image, styling matters as much as construction. The bunny stands centered, feet visible, arms relaxed at the sides. The watering can sits on one side with its strap leaning upward. The bouquet lies near the feet.

The puppy stands to the opposite side, slightly lower and forward. The hat flowers on the main bunny should frame the head dramatically, while the dress cascade falls clearly over the front right side of the skirt. The collar blossoms stay small and neat.

Color Placement Guide

• Bunny skin: warm cream
• Main outfit: soft lavender
• Accent blossoms: dusty pink, lilac, medium violet, deeper purple
• Leaves and stems: sage green
• Puppy head patches and ears: warm brown
• Puppy body and muzzle: cream
• Watering can: lavender with a light neutral button

Keep the entire palette muted and romantic. Neon or overly bright shades will lose the refined garden mood shown in the image.

Detailed Construction Tips for an Accurate Result

• Use firm stuffing in the head, torso, and legs so the bunny stands well.
• Keep the ears flatter than the arms and legs.
• Place the eyes low enough to leave a generous forehead.
• Do not make the mouth large; the face should stay minimal.
• Let the hat brim sit low but not cover the eyes.
• Cluster the hanging wisteria densely instead of spacing each strand evenly.
• Make the skirt bell-shaped, not gathered and puffy.
• Keep all floral additions delicate and balanced.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the bunny body parts together first, then dress the doll, then attach the collar if separate. Add the waist flowers after the dress is positioned. Test the hat with ears in place before sewing the floral vine permanently.

Check the face from the front and both sides. The eyes should be level, the nose centered, and the ears symmetrical. The puppy face should also stay very simple, with neat tiny features and evenly placed ears.

Care Notes

Display pieces with heavy floral trims are best handled gently. Avoid pulling on the hanging strands. If the item is intended for decor, place it away from rough play and frequent friction.

Store flat or upright in a dust-free area. If the hat brim bends, lightly reshape it by hand.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and secure
• Ears even and hanging naturally
• Dress hem level above sandals
• Collar petals balanced left and right
• Waist flowers attached as a downward cascade
• Hat brim smooth and floral vine secure
• Watering can spout, handle, and strap firmly sewn
• Puppy outfit and hat coordinated with the bunny
• All ends woven in carefully

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a soft cloth and mild soap when needed. Avoid soaking pieces with heavy floral embellishment unless absolutely necessary. If washing is required, hand wash gently in cool water and press out moisture without twisting.

Reshape the hat brim, dress, ears, and hanging flowers while damp, then dry flat. Keep away from direct heat and long periods of strong sunlight to preserve the soft pastel tones and maintain the structure of the finished set.