Gomphrena Candle Bunny – Knitting

This knitted bunny set has the soft, heirloom look many makers search for when browsing handmade stuffed rabbit dolls, nursery decor, collectible knitted toys, cottagecore gifts, and artisan bunny keepsakes. The set includes a floppy-eared bunny in a berry dress, cream cardigan, and bonnet, plus matching shoes, a flower tote, a small bouquet, a tiny companion mouse, and a candle on a mat.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny color: DK yarn in soft cream.
• Dress and shoe color: DK yarn in dusty gomphrena berry.
• Leaf and stem color: DK yarn in muted sage green.
• Bag color: DK yarn in warm taupe.
• Mouse body color: DK yarn in pale beige.
• Mouse sweater and bonnet color: DK yarn in berry and cream.
• Candle flame color: Small amount of golden amber.
• Needles: 2.75 mm double-pointed needles or magic loop for narrow parts, and 3 mm needles for larger pieces.
• Notions: stitch markers, tapestry needle, stuffing, black embroidery thread, pink embroidery thread, small scissors, and pins.
• Optional: thin cardboard circle for the bag base and candle base if you prefer extra structure.

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge: About 28 stitches and 36 rows over 4 inches in stockinette on 3 mm needles after light blocking.

The bunny measures about 10 to 11 inches tall from the bottom of the feet to the top of the head, excluding the bonnet crown. With the bonnet on, the total height is slightly taller. The proportions are important in this set, so keep your fabric firm and your stuffing moderate.

• Head: rounded and slightly wider than the neck.
• Body: pear-shaped, widest near the lower dress line.
• Arms: short, softly tapered, and angled slightly downward.
• Legs: slim, straight, and evenly spaced under the skirt.
• Ears: long, flat, and falling below shoulder level.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• K = knit
• P = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• yo = yarn over
• rep = repeat
• M1 = make 1 increase
• sl = slip
• psso = pass slipped stitch over

Construction Notes

This set is built in separate pieces and then assembled carefully. The bunny body is worked from the legs upward, joined into one torso, then shaped through the chest, neck, and head. The face is added after stuffing, which gives better control over the sweet centered expression.

The clothing is made as removable outer pieces except for the shoes, which are lightly tacked to the feet after dressing. The dress is a single garment with a gentle A-line shape and a hem decorated with raised flower buds and knitted leaves.

The cardigan is short and slightly boxy with softly curved fronts. The bonnet sits low on the forehead and has a modest eyelet crown with a rolled brim. The accessory scale should look small and delicate beside the bunny, not oversized.

Bunny Legs

Make 2 in cream.

1. CO 12 sts. Divide evenly if working in the round. Join carefully.
2. Rounds 1 to 4: K all sts.
3. Round 5: K1, M1, knit to last stitch, M1, K1. You now have 14 sts.
4. Rounds 6 to 16: K all sts.
5. Round 17: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, K1. You now have 12 sts.
6. Rounds 18 to 24: K all sts.

Stuff only the lower half of each leg, keeping the upper section soft so the legs sit naturally below the dress. The legs in the photo are slim and vertical, not thick or bent, so avoid overstuffing.

Place the 2 legs side by side. Knit across one leg, CO 4 sts for the gap between legs, then knit across the second leg. You now have 28 sts for the lower body if your leg count remained 12 each. If your tension changed slightly, keep the overall shape consistent.

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Body

Continue in cream.

1. Rounds 1 to 4 after joining: K all sts.
2. Round 5: K3, M1, K8, M1, K6, M1, K8, M1, K3. Increase 4 sts evenly. You now have 32 sts.
3. Rounds 6 to 10: K all sts.
4. Round 11: Increase 4 sts evenly again to 36 sts.
5. Rounds 12 to 18: K all sts.
6. Round 19: Increase 4 sts evenly to 40 sts.
7. Rounds 20 to 28: K all sts.

This is the widest area of the lower torso. The photo shows a gentle pear shape under the dress, so this part should feel round but not bulky. Add stuffing gradually as you work, smoothing it often.

1. Round 29: K4, k2tog, K8, k2tog, K8, ssk, K8, ssk, K4. Reduce 4 sts to 36.
2. Rounds 30 to 34: K all sts.
3. Round 35: Reduce 4 sts evenly to 32 sts.
4. Rounds 36 to 40: K all sts.
5. Round 41: Reduce 4 sts evenly to 28 sts.
6. Rounds 42 to 45: K all sts.

The upper body should now look narrower and ready for the shoulder line. Keep the stuffing firm enough to support the neck, but leave the outermost shoulder edges a little softer.

Arms

Make 2 in cream.

1. CO 10 sts and join.
2. Rounds 1 to 5: K all sts.
3. Round 6: K1, k2tog, K4, ssk, K1. You now have 8 sts.
4. Rounds 7 to 18: K all sts.
5. Round 19: K all sts loosely.

Stuff only the lower two-thirds. Flatten the top opening and sew it closed later. The arms in the image are short and rounded, with a downward relaxed angle. They should end around the upper skirt level once attached.

Neck and Head

Return to the body.

1. Round 46: K all sts.
2. Round 47: K2tog around to 14 sts. This creates the neck.
3. Rounds 48 to 51: K all sts.
4. Round 52: K1, M1 around to 28 sts.
5. Round 53: K all sts.
6. Round 54: K2, M1 around to 37 or 38 sts depending on spacing. Adjust to 38 sts.
7. Rounds 55 to 67: K all sts.

Begin stuffing the head as soon as the shaping becomes visible. Push extra stuffing into the cheeks and front muzzle area. The face in the image is softly rounded, with no sharp nose bump and no deeply indented eye sockets.

1. Round 68: K4, k2tog around to reduce evenly to 32 sts.
2. Round 69: K all sts.
3. Round 70: K3, k2tog around to reduce evenly to 26 sts.
4. Round 71: K all sts.
5. Round 72: K2, k2tog around to reduce evenly to 20 sts.
6. Round 73: K all sts.
7. Round 74: K2tog around to 10 sts.

Finish stuffing before closing. Thread yarn through remaining stitches, pull tight, and fasten securely. Shape the head with your hands so it looks rounded and even.

Ears

Make 2 in cream. Work flat for a flatter ear shape that drapes nicely.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1 RS: K all sts.
3. Row 2 WS: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. You now have 10 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. You now have 12 sts.
7. Rows 6 to 30: Work in stockinette, keeping edges neat.

The ears should be long and smooth, with only a slight widening near the upper section. Their finished length should reach to about the cardigan lower edge when they hang beside the head.

1. Row 31: K1, ssk, K6, k2tog, K1. You now have 10 sts.
2. Row 32: P all sts.
3. Row 33: K1, ssk, K4, k2tog, K1. You now have 8 sts.
4. Row 34: P all sts.
5. Row 35: K1, ssk, K2, k2tog, K1. You now have 6 sts.
6. Row 36: P all sts.
7. Row 37: K1, ssk, k2tog, K1. You now have 4 sts.
8. Row 38: P all sts.
9. Row 39: K2tog twice. You now have 2 sts.
10. BO.

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Do not stuff the ears. Lightly steam or finger-press if needed. Fold the top of each ear very slightly before attaching so they fall from under the bonnet in the same soft way shown in the image.

Face Shaping and Embroidery Placement

Before adding features, mark a vertical center line down the face. The eyes sit low and wide, leaving a large calm forehead. The nose sits exactly centered and begins slightly below the midpoint of the face.

• Eyes: Use tiny black French knots or very small black beads if the toy is decorative only. Place them about 8 to 9 rows below the top center shaping and about 8 stitches apart.
• Nose: Embroider a small inverted triangle in brownish taupe.
• Mouth: Work a short vertical line down from the nose, then add two angled stitches to form a soft Y shape.

The muzzle in the image is defined by gentle thread sculpting rather than bulky shaping. Use a strand of matching cream yarn to make one light horizontal pull across the lower muzzle if you want slightly fuller cheeks.

Dress

Work from the lower hem upward in berry. This garment should flare gently. The lower edge has a textured border, then a row of raised flower buds with knitted stems and leaves placed around the hem.

To keep the look close to the image, make the dress wide enough to sit over the body easily, but not so wide that it becomes a full circle. The shoulder line should remain simple because the cardigan sits on top.

1. CO 84 sts loosely. Join to work in the round.
2. Rounds 1 to 4: Knit garter in the round by working K1 round, P1 round, repeating two more times.
3. Rounds 5 to 9: K all sts.

Hem Flower Placement

On the sample, the flower buds appear evenly spaced around the front and sides. You can place 7 buds around the visible lower skirt area, or continue all the way around with 10 to 12 buds if you want a complete circular finish.

For the most image-accurate look, use knitted bobble flowers added directly while working the skirt. Leaves are worked as small duplicate stitches or attached knitted leaflets immediately after the skirt is complete.

1. Round 10: K6, make flower bud over next stitch, K10, make flower bud over next stitch, rep around as desired.

Flower bud stitch: Knit into front, back, front, back, front of one stitch, turn, P5, turn, K5, turn, P5, turn, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2tog, pass one over, then return the single remaining stitch to right needle and continue. This forms a rounded berry bud.

After each flower bud, embroider or knit a tiny stem and two angled leaves below it in sage. If you prefer fully knitted applique, make the leaves separately as described below and sew them in pairs.

1. Rounds 11 to 26: K all sts.
2. Round 27: K12, k2tog around evenly to reduce 6 sts. You now have 78 sts.
3. Rounds 28 to 34: K all sts.
4. Round 35: Reduce 6 sts evenly to 72 sts.
5. Rounds 36 to 41: K all sts.
6. Round 42: Reduce 6 sts evenly to 66 sts.
7. Rounds 43 to 47: K all sts.
8. Round 48: Reduce 6 sts evenly to 60 sts.
9. Rounds 49 to 53: K all sts.

At this stage, check the fit on the bunny. The dress should slide on comfortably and fall just above the ankles. The image shows the hem covering most of the legs but leaving the shoes visible.

Upper Dress

Divide for front and back. Work flat from here.

1. Front: 30 sts.
2. Back left: 15 sts.
3. Back right: 15 sts.

Work the back pieces first for 8 rows in stockinette, keeping the neck edge straight. BO 3 sts at each armhole edge once, then work 4 more rows. BO remaining shoulder sts.

Return to the front 30 sts.

1. Row 1 RS: K all sts.
2. Row 2 WS: P all sts.
3. Repeat these 8 rows total.
4. Next row: BO 3 sts at beginning and 3 sts at end for armholes. You now have 24 sts.
5. Work 6 rows straight.
6. Next row RS: K8, BO 8, K8.

Work each side separately for 4 rows, then BO shoulder stitches. Sew shoulder seams. Pick up stitches around the back opening and work 3 rows in garter. BO loosely. The dress is designed to open at the back for easy dressing.

Center Chest Flower

The image shows a single small flower bud centered high on the chest with two leaves. Make one tiny bobble flower in berry and sew it just below the neckline. Add two small sage leaves angled outward beneath it.

Separate Leaves for Dress or Chest

Make as many as needed in sage.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1: K.
3. Row 2: P.
4. Row 3: Kfb, K1, kfb. You now have 5 sts.
5. Row 4: P.
6. Row 5: Ssk, K1, k2tog. You now have 3 sts.
7. Row 6: P.
8. Row 7: K3tog. Fasten off.

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Cardigan

Work flat in cream. This cardigan is short, softly structured, and ends at the natural waist area. The front edges roll very slightly, and the body includes subtle eyelet columns for a delicate vintage look.

1. CO 38 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work garter stitch.
3. Row 5 RS: K6, place marker, K7, yo, k2tog, K8, yo, k2tog, K7, place marker, K6.
4. Row 6 WS: Knit all sts.

Repeat Rows 5 and 6 six more times. This creates the small decorative eyelet columns visible on both front panels. Keep the center back plain and the fronts softly textured.

Now divide for fronts and back using the marker positions.

• Left front: 6 sts
• Left side front panel: 7 sts
• Back: 10 sts in the center area between decorative panels after shaping
• Right side front panel: 7 sts
• Right front: 6 sts

For a simpler build that keeps the same look, continue flat across all stitches and shape armholes gently.

1. Row 19: BO 2 sts at beginning and end.
2. Rows 20 to 27: Work straight, preserving the decorative columns.
3. Row 28: Work 8 sts, BO 18 sts, work remaining 8 sts.

Complete each front separately for 4 more rows. BO. For the back neck edge, pick up 18 sts and work 3 rows garter, then BO. Sew side and shoulder seams under the arms, leaving short sleeves open.

Cardigan Sleeves

Pick up 20 sts around each armhole in cream.

1. Rounds 1 to 8: K all sts.
2. Round 9: K2tog evenly around to 16 sts.
3. Rounds 10 to 13: K all sts.
4. Rounds 14 to 16: Work garter in the round.
5. BO loosely.

The sleeves should be bracelet length and slightly rounded. They do not extend past the hands. The cardigan fronts should curve naturally over the upper dress without meeting in the center.

Bonnet

Work in cream. The bonnet sits low and rounded, with a shallow dome and a gentle brim. It also has small eyelet details on the upper section and long side flaps that frame the face and rest over the ears.

1. CO 56 sts and join.
2. Rounds 1 to 6: K all sts.
3. Round 7: *K4, yo, k2tog; rep around.
4. Round 8: K all sts.
5. Round 9: *K3, yo, k2tog, K1; rep around.
6. Round 10: K all sts.
7. Rounds 11 to 16: K all sts.

Now begin crown shaping.

1. Round 17: *K5, k2tog; rep around.
2. Round 18: K all sts.
3. Round 19: *K4, k2tog; rep around.
4. Round 20: K all sts.
5. Round 21: *K3, k2tog; rep around.
6. Round 22: K all sts.
7. Round 23: *K2, k2tog; rep around.
8. Round 24: K all sts.
9. Round 25: *K1, k2tog; rep around.
10. Round 26: K2tog around. Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts.

For the brim, pick up 56 sts around the lower edge and work 6 rows in garter, increasing 6 stitches evenly on the first brim row. BO loosely. This creates the soft outward flare shown in the image.

For the side flaps, pick up 14 sts on one side of the brim edge and work 18 rows in stockinette, then shape the end with decreases over 4 rows. Repeat on the other side. These flaps should hang to about shoulder level.

Shoes

Make 2 in berry. These are tiny Mary Jane style shoes with an open top strap effect. Because they are decorative, the shaping is simple and neat.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 2: Garter stitch.
3. Row 3: K all sts.
4. Row 4: P all sts.
5. Row 5: K4, k2tog, K2, ssk, K4. You now have 10 sts.
6. Rows 6 to 10: Work stockinette.

Fold and seam the sole and heel into a neat little cup. Make a narrow I-cord strap of 8 rows over 3 stitches, then attach from one side opening to the other, leaving the center top of the foot visible just like the photo.

Slip the shoes onto the feet and tack in place with a few hidden stitches. They should sit snugly and show a rounded toe.

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Flower Tote Bag

Work in taupe. This small bag is rectangular with a flat base, two short handles, and three berry flower buds on the front. It sits beside the bouquet and should be proportionally modest.

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 16: Work stockinette, first and last stitch always knit for neat edges.
3. Rows 17 to 20: Garter stitch.

Make a second identical rectangle. Sew sides and base together, leaving the top open. If desired, insert a tiny cardboard base covered in fabric or yarn to help it stand.

For the front decoration, make 3 mini bobble buds in berry and sew them across the lower front area. Add tiny sage stems and leaves beneath them.

For each handle, make an I-cord 16 rows long over 3 stitches. Sew one handle to the front and back near the left side, and the second handle near the right side. Let the handles arch softly.

Bouquet of Gomphrena Stems

This accessory is a bundle of berry pom-pom-like flower heads with long sage stems. The bouquet in the image is low and full, with several rounded heads clustered together.

Flower Heads

Make 7 to 9 in berry.

1. CO 12 sts and join.
2. Rounds 1 to 5: K all sts.
3. Round 6: K2tog around to 6 sts.
4. Stuff lightly.
5. Round 7: K2tog around to 3 sts.
6. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight.

These heads should look like neat little spheres, slightly textured by the knit fabric. Keep them firm so they hold the clustered gomphrena look.

Stems

Make one stem for each flower head in sage.

1. Using double-pointed needles, CO 3 sts.
2. Work I-cord for 14 to 18 rows, depending on your preferred bouquet length.
3. Attach one flower head securely to the top of each stem.

Bundle the stems together and tie them near the lower third with taupe yarn or a narrow knitted tie. Spread the flower heads at slightly different angles for a natural bunch.

Tiny Mouse Companion

This tiny companion sits to the bunny’s right in the image. It has a rounded beige head, tiny cream muzzle, small ears, pale arms, berry overalls or sweater body, and a berry-and-cream bonnet shell resting behind it.

Mouse Body and Head

Work from lower body upward. Start in berry.

1. CO 12 sts and join.
2. Rounds 1 to 6: K all sts.
3. Round 7: Increase evenly to 16 sts.
4. Rounds 8 to 11: K all sts.

Change to beige for the upper chest and head.

1. Round 12: K all sts in beige.
2. Round 13: Increase evenly to 20 sts.
3. Rounds 14 to 19: K all sts.
4. Round 20: Reduce evenly to 16 sts.
5. Round 21: K all sts.
6. Round 22: Reduce evenly to 12 sts.
7. Stuff firmly.
8. Round 23: K2tog around to 6 sts.
9. Draw yarn through and close.

Sew a tiny cream oval muzzle to the lower center face and embroider a pink nose. Add very small black eyes. The face should be sweet and simple.

Mouse Ears

Make 2 in beige.

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Work 4 rows stockinette.
3. Thread yarn through the live sts and gather into a tiny cup.
4. Sew to the top sides of the head.

Mouse Arms

Make 2 in cream or pale beige.

1. CO 5 sts and work 8 rounds in stockinette tube.
2. Stuff lightly or leave unstuffed.
3. Sew to the body sides.

Mouse Bonnet Shell

This piece looks like a small cap lying behind the mouse. Work in berry with cream trim.

1. CO 18 sts in berry.
2. Work 12 rows stockinette.
3. Shape one end with decreases over 4 rows to create a rounded back.
4. Pick up along the front edge in cream and work 3 rows garter.
5. BO.

Place it slightly behind or over the mouse as shown in the image.

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Candle and Mat

The candle is a short cream cylinder sitting on a folded square mat. It adds a cozy cottage detail and should remain very small compared to the bunny.

Mat

Work in cream.

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 18: Garter stitch.
3. BO loosely.

Lightly stretch into a square and fold one corner slightly if you want the casual look shown in the image.

Candle

Work in cream.

1. CO 12 sts and join.
2. Rounds 1 to 10: K all sts.
3. Stuff firmly.
4. Round 11: K2tog around to 6 sts.
5. Close tightly.

For the base, gather the cast-on edge or sew a flat circular base underneath. The candle should stand upright. Add a tiny 3-stitch flame in amber or gold and sew it to the top center.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and finish both arms.
2. Attach arms at the upper body, angled slightly downward.
3. Attach ears to the upper sides of the head.
4. Embroider the face.
5. Dress the bunny in the berry dress.
6. Sew back closure snaps or hidden ties if desired.
7. Add the cardigan over the dress.
8. Place the bonnet on the head.
9. Fit and tack the shoes.
10. Arrange the accessories around the bunny.

Check the silhouette from the front. The bunny should look tall, calm, and centered. The ears should fall beneath the bonnet. The cardigan should sit short over the upper skirt. The dress hem flowers should be visible and evenly balanced.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Use pins before sewing anything permanently. Small changes in arm angle, ear placement, and eye spacing make a big difference. Keep the expression soft by placing the eyes low and the nose small.

When sewing the bonnet, do not pull it tightly over the head. Let it rest naturally so the brim curves forward and the side flaps frame the face. The cardigan fronts should remain slightly open.

Care Notes

• Spot clean whenever possible.
• Use cool water and a mild wool-safe soap if hand washing is needed.
• Do not wring.
• Press gently in a towel and reshape while damp.
• Dry flat away from direct sun.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both ears match in length and angle.
• Eyes are level.
• Nose is centered.
• Dress hem sits evenly.
• Cardigan sleeves are the same length.
• Bonnet brim curves softly.
• Shoes are aligned.
• Accessories are scaled neatly to the bunny.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the set away from moisture, heat, and heavy sunlight. Store it flat or upright in a breathable cotton bag or covered shelf. Avoid plastic storage if the toy may stay packed for long periods.

If dust collects, use a clean dry makeup brush or a low-suction handheld vacuum with a mesh barrier over the nozzle. This helps protect the flower buds, bonnet eyelets, and tiny mouse details.

To preserve shape, never hang the bunny by the ears or bonnet. Support the body from underneath. If the stuffing settles over time, open a small seam at the back and add a little fresh stuffing, then close neatly.