Apple School Bunny – Crochet

This charming amigurumi set brings together a sweet school bunny, a tiny teddy friend, and miniature garden props in a polished handmade bunny doll style. The finished design has the look buyers search for in a crochet bunny gift, collectible stuffed rabbit, and heirloom nursery decor piece.

With its apple-red dress, matching hat, crossbody purse, and carefully coordinated accessories, this design also fits the popular amigurumi bunny doll and handmade plush toy market. The small companion bear, bouquet, basket, and watering can give the finished set a boutique display quality that feels beautifully gift-ready.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light cream for head, body, and legs
• Ear yarn: warm beige or pale taupe
• Dress, hat, purse, and shoes: deep apple red
• Blouse and trim: white
• Flower centers: yellow
• Flower stems: green
• Teddy yarn: light brown, denim blue, straw beige, yellow, black, white
• Hook: 2.0 mm to 2.5 mm, or the size needed for very tight stitches
• Stuffing: fine polyester fiberfill
• Eyes: black safety eyes or black beads for the bunny and teddy
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Small scissors
• Thin cardboard or plastic insert: optional for a firmer hat brim or bag flap
• Fine sewing thread: for attaching very small details securely if preferred

Finished Size

Using sport to light DK cotton yarn and a tight amigurumi gauge, the bunny stands about 9 to 10 inches tall from the feet to the top of the head, not including the hat. The hat adds a little extra height, while the teddy measures about 4 to 4.5 inches tall.

The basket, watering can, bouquet, purse, and teddy bag are all intentionally small. They should look delicate beside the bunny, not oversized. The overall visual balance matters here. The bunny is the main character, while each accessory supports the school-and-garden styling shown in the image.

Gauge and General Notes

• Gauge is not critical, but tight stitching is essential.
• Work in continuous rounds unless a step says otherwise.
• Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of every round.
• Stuff gradually and firmly enough to hold shape without stretching the stitches.
• Invisible decreases are strongly recommended.
• The bunny has a softly rounded head, a narrow neck transition, a gently flared dress, and slim dangling ears.
• The dress is layered over the body for a neat, tailored finish.
• The white blouse sleeves are puffed but still slim enough to sit naturally under the dress arm openings.
• The shoes are part shoe-cover style so they stay clean and symmetrical.
• Read through each section before beginning so the proportions stay consistent.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase
• dec = invisible decrease
• sl st = slip stitch
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• rep = repeat

Bunny Head

The head is one of the most important features in this set. It is almost round, but slightly wider through the cheeks than at the crown. The face should look soft, calm, and childlike. Do not overstuff the lower front of the head, or the stitched nose area will push outward too sharply.

1. With light cream, make a MR and work 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc rep around. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc rep around. (24)
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc rep around. (30)
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc rep around. (36)
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc rep around. (42)
8. Round 8: 6 sc, inc rep around. (48)
9. Rounds 9-16: sc around. (48)
10. Insert the black eyes between Rounds 12 and 13, spaced about 8 stitches apart.
11. Round 17: 6 sc, dec rep around. (42)
12. Round 18: 5 sc, dec rep around. (36)
13. Round 19: 4 sc, dec rep around. (30)
14. Begin stuffing. Shape the cheeks with your fingers as you fill.
15. Round 20: 3 sc, dec rep around. (24)
16. Round 21: 2 sc, dec rep around. (18)
17. Round 22: sc, dec rep around. (12)
18. Fasten off with a long tail if sewing later, or continue directly into the neck if you prefer a one-piece build.

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Facial Shaping and Embroidery

The bunny face in the image is simple and neat. It uses small glossy black eyes, a tiny pale pink triangular nose, and a straight center line that ends softly. There is no heavy mouth shaping. The charm comes from restraint, symmetry, and gentle placement rather than exaggerated facial features.

• Embroider a small triangular nose in pale blush or soft peach yarn centered below the eyes.
• Place the nose about 3 rounds below the eye line.
• Add one short vertical stitch from the nose downward.
• Optional: add a tiny one-stitch suggestion of a mouth at the bottom of the vertical line, but keep it minimal.
• Do not add blush circles unless you want a slightly sweeter finish than the image shows.

Bunny Body

The body beneath the dress is compact and slightly pear shaped. It should support the clothing without looking bulky. The upper body is narrow enough for the blouse and pinafore effect, but the lower body has enough width to help the skirt sit smoothly and create the rounded silhouette visible from the front.

1. With light cream, make a MR and work 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc rep around. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc rep around. (24)
5. Rounds 5-8: sc around. (24)
6. Round 9: 2 sc, dec rep around. (18)
7. Rounds 10-12: sc around. (18)
8. Round 13: sc, inc rep around. (27)
9. Rounds 14-16: sc around. (27)
10. Stuff firmly, shaping the lower body round and the upper body slimmer.
11. Round 17: sc, dec rep around. (18)
12. Round 18: sc around. (18)
13. Leave a long tail for attaching the head if worked separately.

Bunny Legs

The legs are slim, straight, and visible below the dress hem. They should not be thick. The image shows a delicate doll-like build, so keep the legs even and smooth. Stuff lightly through the lower leg and a bit more firmly at the ankle so the shoe covers keep their shape.

1. Make 2 with light cream.
2. MR, 6 sc.
3. Round 2: inc around. (12)
4. Rounds 3-13: sc around. (12)
5. Stuff lightly.
6. Flatten the top slightly and close with 6 sc through both sides, or leave open for sewing.

• Attach the legs evenly to the bottom of the body.
• They should hang straight and close together.
• Leave enough visible lower leg below the dress so the white socks and red shoes can be clearly seen.

Bunny Shoes

The red shoes are a defining detail. They are rounded at the toe, low at the ankle, and finished with white laces and white sole accents. They should look like little school shoes rather than boots. Make them snug so they do not slide off the legs after assembly.

Shoe Base

1. Make 2 with apple red.
2. Ch 7.
3. Round 1: starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side sc 4, inc in last. (14)
4. Round 2: inc, sc 4, inc x3, sc 4, inc x2. (20)
5. Round 3: BLO sc around. (20)
6. Rounds 4-5: sc around. (20)
7. Round 6: 6 sc, dec x4, 6 sc. (16)
8. Round 7: 5 sc, dec x3, 5 sc. (13)
9. Fasten off.

Sole Edge and Laces

• With white, join around the base edge and work one round of slip stitches or single crochet to suggest the sole.
• For the front lace area, embroider three short horizontal white bars across the top front.
• Then stitch two diagonal lace lines crossing gently at the center.
• Do not make the laces too large. They should be crisp and tidy.

Sock Edge

To suggest white socks above the shoes, add a narrow round or two in white at the ankle of the leg before sliding the shoe on, or sew a tiny white cuff ring separately. The image shows just a small white band above each red shoe.

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Bunny Arms

The arms are slender and proportionate. The hands are simple and neutral, with no separate fingers. Because the sleeves are visible and slightly puffed, the arm core should stay slim. This keeps the blouse from looking heavy and helps the shoulders sit neatly beside the bib-style upper dress.

1. Make 2 with light cream.
2. MR, 6 sc.
3. Round 2: inc around. (12)
4. Round 3: sc around. (12)
5. Round 4: 2 sc, dec rep around. (9)
6. Rounds 5-12: sc around. (9)
7. Stuff the lower half lightly. Leave the upper half softer.
8. Flatten and close, or leave open for sewing.

White Blouse Sleeves

The blouse is not a full separate shirt in the image. The visible effect comes from white sleeves, white shoulder ruffles, and white trim peeking beneath the red dress. Building the visible blouse elements separately gives a clean result while keeping the outfit manageable for newer makers.

Sleeve Covers

1. Make 2 with white.
2. Ch 10 and join, or start with 10 sc in a ring. (10)
3. Rounds 2-5: sc around. (10)
4. Round 6: sc, inc rep around. (15)
5. Rounds 7-8: sc around. (15)
6. At the cuff, add a ruffle round: in each stitch work sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, sl st.

• Slide each sleeve over the arm before attaching the arm to the body.
• Position the ruffled cuff near the wrist.
• Gather the upper sleeve slightly when sewing so it looks softly puffed.

Shoulder Ruffles

1. With white, ch 16.
2. Work 2 dc in each chain across for a gathered strip.
3. Fasten off, leaving tails for sewing.
4. Make 2.

These strips are sewn as small frills at the top of the sleeves, visible on either side of the red bib front. Keep them short and compact. They should look like neat flutter ruffles rather than dramatic wings.

Bunny Ears

The ears are long, narrow, and softly floppy. They hang down on both sides of the face, emerging beneath the hat brim. The outer ear color is beige rather than the same cream as the face, which creates a gentle contrast. Make them smooth, lightly stuffed only at the base, and flat through the length.

1. Make 2 with warm beige.
2. MR, 6 sc.
3. Round 2: inc around. (12)
4. Round 3: sc around. (12)
5. Round 4: 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc. (14)
6. Rounds 5-18: sc around. (14)
7. Round 19: 5 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec. (12)
8. Rounds 20-24: sc around. (12)
9. Flatten and close the top with a few stitches.

• Do not heavily stuff the ears.
• If desired, add only a pinch of stuffing at the base for a softer fold.
• Sew each ear to the upper side of the head, slightly behind the eye line.
• Angle them downward so they fall under the hat brim naturally.

Red Pinafore Dress

The dress is the centerpiece of the outfit. It has a bib-style front, a smooth waist area, and a gently flared skirt. The red tone is rich and warm, closer to apple red than bright scarlet. The look is tidy, classic, and slightly vintage, which is important to preserve.

Dress Skirt

1. With apple red, ch 27 and join carefully without twisting, or start from a round that fits around the body waist.
2. Round 1: sc around. (27)
3. Round 2: 2 sc, inc rep around. (36)
4. Round 3: sc around. (36)
5. Round 4: 5 sc, inc rep around. (42)
6. Rounds 5-9: sc around. (42)
7. Round 10: 6 sc, inc rep around. (48)
8. Rounds 11-14: sc around. (48)

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The skirt should flare but not become stiffly wide. If your yarn is thicker, stop earlier or reduce one increase round. The hem should sit just above the knees, with white trim visible below. That layered edge gives the outfit its finished doll-clothing look.

White Underskirt Trim

1. With white, join to the inner lower edge or make separately.
2. Work one round of sc.
3. Then create a soft scallop edge: in one stitch work 5 dc, skip one stitch, sl st in next, rep around.

Keep the scallops small. The trim should peek out from under the red hem instead of dominating it. In the image, the white border is crisp and decorative, but still secondary to the red dress itself.

Dress Bib Front

1. With apple red, ch 10.
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (9)
3. Rows 2-7: ch 1, turn, sc across. (9)
4. Shape the top slightly by decreasing one stitch at each side over the next 2 rows if desired.

Sew the lower edge of the bib to the center front waist area of the skirt. The upper edge should sit high on the chest, leaving room for the white bow at the neckline. The side edges should align neatly with the shoulder strap placement.

Dress Straps

1. Make 2 with apple red.
2. Ch 14.
3. Work 13 sc back along the chain.
4. Fasten off with tails for sewing.

• Sew each strap from the top corners of the bib over the shoulders to the back of the dress.
• Keep them close to the neck, not wide-set.
• This helps recreate the neat pinafore line shown in the image.

White Neck Bow

The small white bow at the neckline is essential. It softens the outfit and breaks up the red bib front. Make it compact and slightly puffy. It should sit centered below the bunny’s chin and above the bib, without covering the shoulder ruffles.

1. With white, ch 9.
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (8)
3. Rows 2-4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (8)
4. Wrap the center tightly with white yarn to form a bow.
5. Leave tails for sewing.

Crossbody Purse

The purse is small, rectangular, and made in the same red as the dress and hat. It hangs diagonally across the front. The flap is rounded, and there is a tiny circular button detail. The bag should sit at the bunny’s right hip area as shown in the image.

Purse Body

1. With apple red, ch 9.
2. Round 1: sc 7, 3 sc in last ch, sc 6 on opposite side, inc in last. (18)
3. Round 2: sc around. (18)
4. Round 3: BLO sc around. (18)
5. Rounds 4-6: sc around. (18)
6. Fasten off.

Flap

1. Join yarn to the back upper edge.
2. Row 1: sc across 8 stitches.
3. Rows 2-4: ch 1, turn, sc across.
4. Row 5: dec, sc 4, dec. (6)
5. Row 6: sc across.
6. Round the corners with slip stitches if needed.

Strap and Button

• For the strap, ch a length that crosses from one shoulder to the opposite hip.
• Work slip stitches back along the chain for strength.
• Sew the ends securely to the bag sides.
• Add a tiny red crocheted knot, bead, or embroidered circle to represent the button.

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Red Hat

The hat is a classic cloche shape with a rounded crown and softly rolled brim. It sits low enough to frame the face and partly cover the ear bases. The brim turns outward just slightly, not sharply. A single white daisy with a yellow center decorates one side.

Hat Crown

1. With apple red, MR, 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc rep around. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc rep around. (24)
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc rep around. (30)
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc rep around. (36)
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc rep around. (42)
8. Rounds 8-12: sc around. (42)

Hat Brim

1. Round 13: in FLO, 6 sc, inc rep around. (48)
2. Round 14: sc around. (48)
3. Round 15: 7 sc, inc rep around. (54)
4. Round 16: loosely sc around. (54)
5. Optional: sl st around the edge for a neat finish.

If you want the brim to hold its curve better, lightly steam block it or place a thin hidden insert between the last rounds. The image shows a natural soft brim, so do not make it stiff like a sunhat.

Daisy for Hat

1. With yellow, make a tiny center of 6 sc in a ring.
2. With white, join and make 5 petals: ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sl st into the same stitch, rep around.
3. Fasten off.

• Sew the daisy to one side of the hat.
• Place it slightly above the brim line.
• Angle it so it looks tucked into the hat rather than floating on top.

Tiny Flower Bouquet

The bouquet is made of small white daisies with yellow centers and green wrapped stems. It sits on the table in front of the bunny. Keep it compact, delicate, and slightly rounded at the flower heads so it looks like a hand-tied mini bunch rather than separate loose flowers.

1. Make 5 to 7 tiny daisies using the same flower method as the hat flower, but on a smaller scale if desired.
2. For each stem, use green yarn and chain 8 to 10.
3. Slip stitch back along the chain for firmness.
4. Sew one flower to the top of each stem.
5. Gather all stems together and wrap with green yarn near the base.

Mini Basket with Yarn Balls

The basket is shallow and round with a small curved handle. Inside are three visible yarn balls in cream, dark blue, and red. The basket should remain low and open so the yarn colors can be seen clearly from above.

Basket

1. With tan or straw beige, MR, 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc rep around. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc rep around. (24)
5. Round 5: BLO sc around. (24)
6. Rounds 6-8: sc around. (24)
7. Fasten off.

Handle

• Ch 16 to 18 with the same yarn.
• Slip stitch back along the chain.
• Sew each end to opposite sides of the basket rim.

Yarn Balls

• Make 3 tiny balls: MR 6, inc around to 12, one round sc, then dec back to 6.
• Stuff lightly.
• Use cream, dark blue, and apple red.
• Arrange them visibly inside the basket.

Mini Watering Can

The watering can is very small and light gray. It has a squat body, a curved handle, a side spout, and a top opening suggestion. It should look decorative rather than realistic. Keep it simple, because too much detail at this scale can make the shape bulky.

1. With light gray, MR, 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rounds 3-5: sc around. (12)
4. Round 6: BLO sc around. (12)
5. Round 7: sc around. (12)
6. Fasten off and lightly stuff or leave hollow.

• Spout: ch 8, slip stitch back, sew to the upper side.
• Handle: ch 10, slip stitch back, sew from top back to side.
• Top rim: add a tiny stitched circle or a few surface stitches to suggest the opening.

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Teddy Bear Companion

The small teddy is a complete side character and should not be skipped. It wears blue overalls, a straw-colored hat with a pale band, and carries a yellow bag. The face is simple and friendly, with black eyes, a white muzzle, and a dark stitched nose.

Teddy Head

1. With light brown, MR, 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc rep around. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc rep around. (24)
5. Rounds 5-8: sc around. (24)
6. Insert eyes between Rounds 6 and 7, about 5 stitches apart.
7. Round 9: 2 sc, dec rep around. (18)
8. Round 10: sc, dec rep around. (12)
9. Stuff and close.

Teddy Muzzle and Ears

• Muzzle: with white, make a tiny oval of about 6 to 8 stitches. Sew centered below the eyes.
• Nose: embroider a small black triangle and a short downward stitch.
• Ears: make 2 in brown, MR 6, one round sc, flatten and sew to the top sides.

Teddy Body and Legs

1. With light brown, MR, 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc rep around. (18)
4. Rounds 4-6: sc around. (18)
5. Round 7: sc, dec rep around. (12)
6. Stuff lightly and close.

• Make 2 short legs in brown: MR 6, inc to 9 or 10, then work 4 to 5 rounds straight.
• Attach close together under the body.

Teddy Arms

• Make 2 in brown: MR 6, one increase round to 8 or 9, then 5 rounds straight.
• Stuff lightly and attach at the sides.

Teddy Overalls

The overalls are denim blue and cover the lower body, leaving the upper chest partly visible. Add two tiny tan or beige button details on the bib straps. This gives the teddy the playful school-friend look shown beside the bunny.

1. With denim blue, create a small wrap skirt shape that fits around the lower teddy body.
2. Work enough rounds to cover the body from waist to feet.
3. Add a small front bib panel.
4. Make two narrow straps and sew them over the shoulders.
5. Add tiny embroidered or crocheted button dots where the straps meet the bib.

Teddy Hat

1. With straw beige, make a mini rounded hat similar in shape to the bunny hat but smaller and flatter.
2. Add a narrow pale blue or gray-blue band around the crown.

Teddy Yellow Bag

• Make a tiny oval pouch in yellow.
• Add a short strap or loop so it can rest at the side of the teddy.
• Keep it simple and smooth.

Assembly Order

Assembly is much easier if you build the bunny first, then dress it, then complete the accessories. This helps you check balance and scale as you go. The small props look best when made after the main figure, because you can compare them directly to the finished bunny.

1. Sew the bunny head to the body securely.
2. Attach the ears to the head, then test hat placement before fastening the hat permanently.
3. Attach the legs and check that they hang evenly.
4. Slide on or sew on the shoes.
5. Prepare the arms with their white sleeve covers and ruffled cuffs.
6. Sew the shoulder frills into place.
7. Attach the arms at the sides of the upper body.
8. Fit and sew the dress skirt around the body.
9. Add the bib and straps.
10. Sew the white neck bow.
11. Place the purse diagonally across the body and tack it down at shoulder and hip if needed.
12. Add the hat and hat flower last so the face remains easy to adjust.

Styling Tips for Accuracy

• The bunny should appear calm, tidy, and softly vintage.
• The dress must be rich red, not bright cherry or dark burgundy.
• The blouse details should remain white and crisp.
• The ears must be long enough to show clearly below the hat brim.
• The purse should not hang too low.
• The teddy should be noticeably smaller than the bunny.
• The bouquet should lie low and look delicate.
• The basket and watering can should feel like display props, not full-size tools.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the eye alignment before finishing the nose embroidery. Make sure both ears fall evenly and that the hat sits low but does not cover the eyes. The neck bow should be centered. Straighten the purse strap, adjust the dress hem, and lightly shape the cheeks so the bunny keeps its sweet expression.

Care Notes

Display this piece indoors and away from strong sunlight to protect the yarn color, especially the red sections. If giving it to a child, sew every small part very securely. Decorative props are best treated as display pieces rather than rough-play toys because the smallest details are intentionally delicate.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both eyes even and glossy?
• Is the nose centered?
• Do the ears hang at matching angles?
• Does the hat sit neatly above the eyes?
• Is the white bow centered?
• Do both shoes match in height and lace placement?
• Does the purse rest at the correct hip?
• Are the tiny props scaled nicely beside the bunny?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap only when needed. Avoid soaking if the piece includes glued or tightly layered details. Pat gently with a dry towel and reshape while damp. Let every item air dry flat. For storage, keep the set in a breathable box with tissue support around the hat brim and bouquet.