Knitting Tutorial: Victorian Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

Knitting Tutorial: Victorian Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This elegant Victorian bunny is designed to look like a collectible heirloom toy with a soft blue-and-cream wardrobe, floral trims, a beret, crossbody bag, blue shoes, and a tiny woodland fox friend. It makes a lovely handmade gift, nursery decor piece, spring display item, or boutique-style knitted doll for shoppers searching for handmade bunny doll, knitted rabbit toy, heirloom nursery gift, and collectible stuffed animal ideas.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US English and is worked mostly flat in separate pieces, then seamed and assembled. The finished bunny is approximately 15 to 16 inches tall seated, with long hanging ears, a round head, a narrow neck, a pear-shaped lower body, slim arms, gently tapered legs, and fitted accessories.

The design is based on the exact visual proportions shown in the image: a large head, long ears placed high and slightly behind the head centerline, a compact upper torso, a fuller skirted lower body, short rounded forearms, softly curved shoes, and a medium beret that slouches slightly to one side.

The fox is a separate mini knitted toy sized to sit beside the bunny. The teapot and plant pots shown in the photo are not included in this pattern. The bag is included and is sewn permanently to the bunny after assembly so it stays in the exact position seen in the image.

Materials

  • Main yarn A: cream or warm ivory DK yarn for bunny head, ears, paws, legs, and dress base
  • Yarn B: dusty medium blue DK yarn for coat, beret, shoes, bag, and dress accents
  • Yarn C: light taupe DK yarn for collar, front trim, and lace-like edging details
  • Yarn D: sage green DK yarn for leaves and fox sweater
  • Yarn E: rust or fox orange DK yarn for fox head, body, tail, and legs
  • Yarn F: dark brown DK yarn for fox paws, acorn, and tiny facial accents
  • Yarn G: small amount of pale blue, pale green, and taupe for flowers
  • Needles: US 3 (3.25 mm) straight needles or DPNs if preferred
  • Optional smaller needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) for very firm accessories and flowers
  • Toy stuffing
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Small black safety eyes or black embroidery thread
  • Black or dark brown embroidery thread for nose and mouth
  • Strong sewing thread for shaping if desired

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge is not critical, but your fabric must be firm enough that stuffing does not show through. On US 3 needles with DK yarn, aim for approximately 6.5 to 7 stitches per inch in stockinette.

The bunny in this pattern is proportioned to finish at about 15 to 16 inches tall when seated on a flat surface. The fox finishes at about 5 inches tall seated.

Abbreviations

  • CO = cast on
  • BO = bind off
  • K = knit
  • P = purl
  • St st = stockinette stitch
  • Garter = knit every row
  • K2tog = knit 2 together
  • SSK = slip, slip, knit
  • M1L = make 1 left
  • M1R = make 1 right
  • Rep = repeat
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side
  • St(s) = stitch(es)

Notes Before You Begin

All pieces are worked flat unless stated otherwise. Leave long tails for sewing wherever possible. When a piece is to be made twice, make two identical pieces unless the instructions say to reverse shaping.

Stuff all pieces firmly but not hard. The bunny in the image has a soft sculpted look rather than a tightly overfilled shape. Pay special attention to neck support, shoe shaping, head roundness, and skirt fullness, because these features create the exact silhouette.

Bunny Head

Make 2 in cream.

  1. CO 14 sts.
  2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
  3. Row 2 RS: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 16 sts.
  4. Row 3: Purl.
  5. Row 4: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 18 sts.
  6. Row 5: Purl.
  7. Row 6: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 20 sts.
  8. Row 7: Purl.
  9. Row 8: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 22 sts.
  10. Row 9: Purl.
  11. Row 10: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 24 sts.
  12. Rows 11 to 23: Work 13 rows in St st, beginning with a purl row.
  13. Row 24 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 22 sts.
  14. Row 25: Purl.
  15. Row 26: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 20 sts.
  16. Row 27: Purl.
  17. Row 28: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 18 sts.
  18. Row 29: Purl.
  19. Row 30: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 16 sts.
  20. Row 31: Purl.
  21. Row 32: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 14 sts.
  22. BO purlwise on WS.

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Sew the two head pieces together around the curved edge, leaving the lower straight section open for stuffing. Stuff firmly, smoothing the front face so it remains round and even.

The finished head should look slightly taller than wide, with a gentle oval shape. Do not flatten the cheeks. The face in the photo is simple and clean, with very minimal shaping.

Ears

Make 4 in cream, using 2 pieces per ear.

  1. CO 6 sts.
  2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
  3. Row 2 RS: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 8 sts.
  4. Row 3: Purl.
  5. Row 4: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 10 sts.
  6. Row 5: Purl.
  7. Rows 6 to 21: Work 16 rows in St st.
  8. Row 22 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 8 sts.
  9. Row 23: Purl.
  10. Row 24: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 6 sts.
  11. Row 25: Purl.
  12. Row 26: K1, SSK, K2tog, K1. 4 sts.
  13. Row 27: Purl.
  14. Row 28: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
  15. BO.

Sew two ear pieces together for each ear, leaving the bottom open. Do not stuff. Lightly steam if needed so the ears lie flat. Fold the bottom of each ear slightly inward before attaching to the head so they hang naturally along the sides, just behind the face.

Body Core

The body core sits under the dress and coat. Make 2 in cream.

  1. CO 16 sts.
  2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
  3. Row 2 RS: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 18 sts.
  4. Row 3: Purl.
  5. Row 4: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 20 sts.
  6. Row 5: Purl.
  7. Row 6: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 22 sts.
  8. Row 7: Purl.
  9. Row 8: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 24 sts.
  10. Rows 9 to 17: Work 9 rows in St st.
  11. Row 18 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 22 sts.
  12. Row 19: Purl.
  13. Row 20: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 20 sts.
  14. Row 21: Purl.
  15. Rows 22 to 27: Work 6 rows in St st.
  16. Row 28 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 18 sts.
  17. Row 29: Purl.
  18. Row 30: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 16 sts.
  19. Row 31: Purl.
  20. BO knitwise.

Sew body pieces together, leaving lower edge open. Stuff the lower body firmly, tapering slightly toward the top. Close the lower edge after the legs are inserted or stitch it shut first and attach legs afterward, depending on your preferred method.

Legs

Make 4 in cream, using 2 pieces per leg.

  1. CO 8 sts.
  2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
  3. Row 2 RS: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 10 sts.
  4. Row 3: Purl.
  5. Rows 4 to 17: Work 14 rows in St st.
  6. Row 18 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 8 sts.
  7. Row 19: Purl.
  8. Rows 20 to 23: Work 4 rows in St st.
  9. BO.

Sew each pair together, leaving the top open. Stuff firmly, especially around the ankle and lower leg, but keep the knee area slightly softer so the legs can bend into the seated pose.

Shoes

Make 4 in dusty blue, using 2 pieces per shoe. These are sewn over the lower feet and should fit closely. The shoe opening is small and rounded like a Mary Jane without a strap.

  1. CO 10 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 4: Work 4 rows in garter.
  3. Row 5 RS: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 12 sts.
  4. Row 6: Purl.
  5. Rows 7 to 10: Work 4 rows in St st.
  6. Row 11 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 10 sts.
  7. Row 12: Purl.
  8. Row 13 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 8 sts.
  9. BO.

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Sew around each foot after the leg is stuffed. Add a small gathered seam at the toe to create the rounded slipper look. Embroider one tiny flower or sew one knitted flower at the outer side of each shoe.

Arms

Make 4 in cream for the paw and lower arm base, then add blue sleeve pieces separately. Use 2 pieces per arm.

  1. CO 8 sts in cream.
  2. Rows 1 to 6: Work 6 rows in St st.
  3. Change to blue.
  4. Rows 7 to 18: Work 12 rows in St st.
  5. Row 19 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 6 sts.
  6. Row 20: Purl.
  7. BO.

Sew arm pieces together and stuff lightly. The arms in the image are not stiff; they are soft and slightly bent downward. Keep the hand area oval and simple.

Dress Skirt

The cream underskirt is visible beneath the blue coat. It has a soft flare and decorative blue banding near the hem. This piece is worked flat as a rectangle and then gathered slightly at the waist.

  1. Using cream, CO 54 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 6: Work 6 rows in garter.
  3. Row 7 RS: Knit.
  4. Row 8 WS: Purl.
  5. Rows 9 to 14: Continue in St st.
  6. Change to blue for decorative band.
  7. Rows 15 and 16: Work 2 rows in St st.
  8. Change to cream.
  9. Rows 17 to 22: Work 6 rows in St st.
  10. Row 23 RS: *K7, K2tog; rep to end. 48 sts.
  11. Row 24: Purl.
  12. Row 25 RS: *K6, K2tog; rep to end. 42 sts.
  13. Row 26: Purl.
  14. Rows 27 to 32: Work 6 rows in St st.
  15. BO loosely.

Sew the short ends together. Gather the upper edge very slightly so it fits the body waist neatly. The skirt should flare enough to cover the tops of the legs when seated.

Dress Hem Lace

This edging creates the soft scalloped look at the bottom. Work separately in taupe and sew to the lower skirt edge.

  1. CO 8 sts.
  2. Row 1: Knit.
  3. Row 2: K2, yo, K2tog, K4.
  4. Row 3: Knit.
  5. Row 4: K4, yo, K2tog, K2.
  6. Rep Rows 1 to 4 until strip measures long enough to fit around lower skirt hem, approximately 24 to 26 inches.
  7. BO.

Sew to the dress hem so the edging ripples slightly. Do not pull tight. The photo shows a soft lace-like border rather than a stiff ruffle.

Decorative Skirt Flowers

Make 7 small flowers for the lower hem band in blue with cream centers.

  1. Using blue, CO 18 sts.
  2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
  3. Row 2 RS: *K2tog, yo; rep across. 18 sts.
  4. Row 3: Purl.
  5. Thread yarn through live sts and pull up tightly into a rosette.

Make a tiny cream knot or embroidered center for each flower. Sew the flowers evenly spaced around the lower skirt front, focusing on the visible area. Add small green stitched leaves if desired.

Front Bib Panel

This panel sits at the center front of the dress and is visible between the blue coat fronts.

  1. Using taupe, CO 10 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 16: Work in seed stitch: Row 1 K1, P1 across. Row 2 P1, K1 across. Rep these 2 rows.
  3. BO.

Sew at the center upper body. Add 3 small blue rosettes vertically down the panel and 2 pale green leaves around the middle rosette to match the image.

Coat Back

Using blue, make 1.

  1. CO 24 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 4: Work 4 rows in garter.
  3. Rows 5 to 20: Work 16 rows in St st.
  4. Row 21 RS: K6, BO 12 sts, K6.
  5. Row 22 WS: P6, CO 12 sts, P6. 24 sts.
  6. Rows 23 to 32: Work 10 rows in St st.
  7. Row 33 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 22 sts.
  8. Row 34: Purl.
  9. Row 35 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 20 sts.
  10. Row 36: Purl.
  11. BO.

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The central opening created in Rows 21 and 22 gives a slight waist shaping and allows the coat to sit nicely over the fuller skirt. This is subtle but helps reproduce the fitted Victorian look.

Coat Fronts

Make 2 in blue.

  1. CO 16 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 4: Work 4 rows in garter.
  3. Rows 5 to 18: Work 14 rows in St st.
  4. Row 19 RS: K12, K2tog, K2. 15 sts.
  5. Row 20 WS: Purl.
  6. Row 21 RS: K11, K2tog, K2. 14 sts.
  7. Row 22 WS: Purl.
  8. Row 23 RS: K10, K2tog, K2. 13 sts.
  9. Rows 24 to 28: Continue in St st, decreasing 1 st at front edge every RS row 3 more times. 10 sts.
  10. Rows 29 to 32: Work even.
  11. BO.

Sew the coat fronts to the back at shoulder seams and side seams, leaving arm openings. The fronts should angle away from the center and reveal the cream dress beneath, just like the photo.

Coat Front and Edge Trim

Using taupe, pick up and knit around each front edge and lower front curve, or work separately as a strip if you prefer. The separate strip method gives the neatest result.

  1. CO 6 sts.
  2. Row 1: Knit.
  3. Row 2: K1, P4, K1.
  4. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until strip is long enough to go from neckline, down the front edge, around the lower front opening, and back up slightly at the inner edge.
  5. BO.

Sew to coat fronts. Let the trim ripple slightly around the lower coat front. This soft wavy edge is important for matching the image.

Sleeves

Make 2 in blue.

  1. CO 18 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 4: Work 4 rows in garter.
  3. Rows 5 to 14: Work 10 rows in St st.
  4. Row 15 RS: *K2tog across. 9 sts.
  5. Row 16 WS: Purl.
  6. BO.

Sew into tubes and slide over the upper arm pieces, sewing them in place at the shoulder and wrist area. Add a taupe trim band at the cuff using a narrow 4-stitch strip in garter or seed stitch. The sleeves should puff slightly before narrowing at the cuff.

Beret

The beret is a defining feature. It should sit low over the head and slouch toward the bunny’s left side.

  1. Using blue, CO 60 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 6: Work 6 rows in 1×1 rib: K1, P1 across.
  3. Row 7 RS: *K1, M1R, rep across. 90 sts.
  4. Rows 8 to 18: Work 11 rows in St st.
  5. Row 19 RS: *K8, K2tog; rep across. 81 sts.
  6. Row 20 WS: Purl.
  7. Row 21 RS: *K7, K2tog; rep across. 72 sts.
  8. Row 22 WS: Purl.
  9. Row 23 RS: *K6, K2tog; rep across. 63 sts.
  10. Row 24 WS: Purl.
  11. Continue in this way, decreasing 9 sts on every RS row until 18 sts remain.
  12. Break yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight, and sew side seam.

Place the seam toward the back. Shape the top by hand so the beret droops leftward and slightly forward. Do not pull it tightly over the ears. It should rest above the eyes and allow both ears to fall freely beneath it.

Beret Flowers and Leaves

Make 3 flowers in taupe and cream, with 2 dark olive leaves and 2 lighter leaves.

  • Large flower: CO 20 sts, work the same rosette method as the skirt flowers, roll and sew.
  • Medium flower: CO 16 sts, same method.
  • Small flower: CO 12 sts, same method.
  • Leaves: CO 4 sts in green, work 1 row purl, then K1 M1, knit to last st, M1, K1 on RS once, purl WS, then decrease back to 4 sts and BO.

Cluster the flowers at the bunny’s right front side of the beret, with the leaves underneath. This exact placement helps match the photographed style.

Crossbody Bag

Using blue, make 2 bag sides.

  1. CO 8 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 10: Work in St st.
  3. Row 11 RS: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 10 sts.
  4. Rows 12 to 16: Work in St st.
  5. BO.

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Sew side and bottom, lightly stuff or line with a scrap of felt if you want more shape. Sew a tiny flower to the front lower corner. For the strap, make an I-cord or narrow knitted strip.

  • Strap: CO 3 sts and knit every row until strip measures about 12 inches. BO.

Sew the strap from the top of the bag, across the bunny’s shoulder, and to the back so the bag sits at the bunny’s right hip as in the image.

Neck Ruffle

Using taupe, CO 36 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 3: Work in garter.
  2. Row 4 RS: *K1, M1R; rep across. 72 sts.
  3. Rows 5 and 6: Work in garter.
  4. BO loosely.

Gather slightly and sew around the neck as a soft standing ruffle under the head and above the bib panel.

Small Branch Embellishments on Coat

The coat has small floral branch details near the lower sides and cuffs. Create these using tiny knitted bobbles or simple embroidered French knots with yarn.

  • Make 6 to 8 tiny cream knots.
  • Add short blue or green stitched stems.
  • Place one cluster near each lower coat front edge and one at each cuff.

Fox Head

Make 2 in rust.

  1. CO 8 sts.
  2. Row 1: Purl.
  3. Row 2: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 10 sts.
  4. Row 3: Purl.
  5. Row 4: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 12 sts.
  6. Rows 5 to 12: Work 8 rows in St st.
  7. Row 13 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 10 sts.
  8. Row 14: Purl.
  9. Row 15 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 8 sts.
  10. BO.

Sew and stuff lightly. Add a cream muzzle patch if desired by duplicate stitch, but keep it small because the fox face in the image is mostly rust with a little lighter snout and dark nose.

Fox Ears

Make 4, 2 in rust and 2 in brown or cream for inner contrast.

  1. CO 3 sts.
  2. Row 1: Purl.
  3. Row 2: K1, M1, K1, M1, K1. 5 sts.
  4. Row 3: Purl.
  5. Row 4: K1, M1, K3, M1, K1. 7 sts.
  6. Row 5: Purl.
  7. Row 6: K2tog, K3, K2tog. 5 sts.
  8. Row 7: Purl.
  9. Row 8: K2tog, K1, K2tog. 3 sts.
  10. BO.

Layer outer and inner pieces and sew to the fox head at a slight outward angle.

Fox Body

Make 2 in rust.

  1. CO 10 sts.
  2. Row 1: Purl.
  3. Row 2: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 12 sts.
  4. Rows 3 to 12: Work 10 rows in St st.
  5. Row 13 RS: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 10 sts.
  6. Row 14: Purl.
  7. Rows 15 to 18: Work 4 rows in St st.
  8. BO.

Sew and stuff. The fox is slim and slightly elongated when seated.

Fox Sweater

Using sage green, CO 16 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 10: Work in St st.
  2. BO.

Sew into a tube and fit around the fox body. Stitch in place at the back. The sweater should end at the waist and leave the lower rust body visible.

Fox Arms, Legs, Tail, and Acorn

  • Arms, make 4: CO 4 sts in brown, work 2 rows St st, change to rust, work 6 rows, BO.
  • Legs, make 4: CO 4 sts in brown, work 2 rows St st, change to rust, work 8 rows, BO.
  • Tail, make 2: CO 5 sts in rust, work 8 rows, change last 2 rows to cream or white if desired, BO.
  • Acorn, make 2: CO 4 sts in brown, work 4 rows St st, BO and seam into a tiny oval. Add a cap in taupe with 4 sts worked for 2 rows.

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Sew the fox together with the tail attached at the back and slightly curved around the side. Place the acorn in one hand or stitch it against the body.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the stuffed head to the body with extra passes of strong yarn so the neck stays upright. Attach the ears high on the head, slightly behind the centerline, letting them fall to shoulder level. Sew the legs so the bunny sits with the feet forward. Attach the arms at shoulder height, angled gently downward.

Add the skirt first, then the bib panel, then the coat, then the neck ruffle. Place the beret low and slightly tilted. Sew the bag strap across the body. Embroider the face with two tiny black eyes spaced widely apart, a small Y-shaped nose and mouth in dark brown or black thread, and no extra blush or lashes.

Care Notes

Spot clean only when possible. If a deeper clean is needed, hand wash gently in cool water with mild wool-safe soap. Roll in a towel to remove moisture and reshape while drying flat. Do not hang dry, wring, or machine dry.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head round and centered
  • Ears hanging evenly
  • Neck secure and upright
  • Dress hem lace attached smoothly
  • Blue coat fronts open evenly
  • Sleeves softly puffed
  • Beret tilted to one side
  • Bag resting at right hip
  • Shoes rounded and matched
  • Fox scaled small beside bunny

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the finished bunny away from direct sun to prevent fading, especially on the blue sections. Keep in a dry area with good airflow. For long-term display, dust lightly with a clean soft brush. If packing away, wrap in acid-free tissue and avoid plastic bags that can trap moisture.

This finished design depends on careful placement of every trim, flower, and seam. Take your time during assembly, because the photographed look comes less from difficult stitches and more from precise shaping, balanced proportions, and patient finishing.

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