Knitting Tutorial: Vintage Bluebell Tea Party Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This charming heirloom-style bunny is designed to look like a collectible stuffed rabbit doll in a soft vintage knit dress with a flowing bluebell coat, bonnet, tiny handbag, knitted shoes, teapot, teacup, jam jar, and a plate of small tea cakes. The finished piece has the feel of a handmade nursery keepsake, artisan bunny toy, and cottagecore knitted rabbit, making it a lovely project for gifting, display, or anyone searching for a premium handmade bunny pattern with delicate floral details and a storybook tea party mood.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written to recreate the bunny exactly as shown: a long-eared rabbit with a cream face and body, a cream cabled underdress, a pale blue cabled bodice and open overskirt, a ruffled hem, floral bonnet, matching bag, tiny blue shoes, and tea party accessories.

The shaping is intentionally refined rather than overly simplified. The bunny is slender through the neck and shoulders, softly rounded at the head, and gently weighted by the long layered skirt so it stands in a display pose. The arms are set slightly forward to hold the teapot and cup.

The pattern uses mainly stockinette stitch, ribbing, simple cable panels, gathered skirt shaping, i-cord ties, and small embroidered floral accents. The flowers are kept small and dimensional so the finished toy keeps the delicate look seen in the image.

Materials

• Main bunny color: sport weight or light DK yarn in warm cream
• Dress and bonnet color: sport weight or light DK yarn in pale vintage blue
• Trim color: cream for frills, bonnet edging, floral details
• Accent colors: leaf green, bluebell blue, dusty rose, light taupe, red, pale pink
• Needles for flat knitting: 2.5 mm and 3 mm
• Needles for small circumference: 2.5 mm double-pointed needles
• Cable needle
• Tapestry needle
• Locking stitch markers
• Toy stuffing
• Optional weighting pellets in a secure inner pouch
• Black embroidery thread or tiny 5 to 6 mm safety eyes if preferred
• Brown embroidery floss for nose and mouth
• Thin card or plastic canvas for bag base and shoe soles if desired
• Fine sewing thread matching yarn shades for attaching mini accessories securely

Finished Size

Approximate finished height for the main bunny from top of bonnet to hem: 13.5 to 15 inches.

Approximate bunny body height without bonnet and without accessories: 11.5 to 12.5 inches.

Because the piece is styled as a display bunny with a long skirt, exact height may vary slightly depending on stuffing density and yarn thickness.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch on 3 mm needles: 26 stitches and 34 rows = 4 inches.

In stockinette stitch on 2.5 mm needles: 28 stitches and 38 rows = 4 inches.

Gauge matters most for the face, arms, and accessories. Knit firmly so stuffing does not show through.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• M1L = make 1 left
• M1R = make 1 right
• C4F = slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in front, k2, then k2 from cable needle
• C4B = slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in back, k2, then k2 from cable needle
• sl = slip
• rep = repeat

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Design Notes

The bunny is worked mostly flat and seamed, which gives clean control over shaping and helps match the tailored vintage silhouette. Small accessories may be worked flat or in the round depending on your preference, but the written version below keeps the construction approachable for newer knitters.

The coat-like outer dress is attached over the cream underdress and left open in front. This is important for matching the image. The cream skirt remains visible in the center front, and the blue skirt panels sit like an open overskirt with embroidered bluebells near the hem.

Do not overstuff the head. A firm but not hard head preserves the gentle oval rabbit face. The muzzle shaping comes from embroidered sculpting rather than a separate snout piece.

Main Bunny Legs and Lower Body

Make 2 Legs

Using cream and 2.5 mm needles, CO 16 sts.

1. Row 1 WS: p all.
2. Row 2 RS: k all.
3. Rows 3 to 6: work in stockinette.
4. Row 7 RS: k1, kfb, k12, kfb, k1. 18 sts.
5. Row 8 WS: p all.
6. Row 9 RS: k2, kfb, k12, kfb, k2. 20 sts.
7. Rows 10 to 28: work in stockinette for 19 rows.
8. Row 29 RS: k2tog, k16, ssk. 18 sts.
9. Row 30 WS: p all.
10. Row 31 RS: k2tog, k14, ssk. 16 sts.
11. Rows 32 to 40: work 9 rows stockinette.

BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 12 sts remain.

Work 6 more rows in stockinette. Leave stitches on holder.

Join Legs for Lower Torso

Place both leg pieces on needle with RS facing you. Using cream, knit across first leg, CO 4 sts, knit across second leg. 28 sts.

1. Next WS row: p all.
2. Next RS row: k all.
3. Next WS row: p all.
4. Next RS row: k10, M1R, k8, M1L, k10. 30 sts.
5. Next WS row: p all.
6. Next RS row: k all.
7. Next WS row: p all.
8. Next RS row: k11, M1R, k8, M1L, k11. 32 sts.

Work 12 rows even in stockinette.

Shape waist gently to keep the bunny slim under the dress.

1. RS: k2tog, k28, ssk. 30 sts.
2. WS: p all.
3. Work 3 rows even.
4. RS: k2tog, k26, ssk. 28 sts.
5. WS: p all.

Work 8 rows even.

Upper Body and Neck

Shape chest and shoulders.

1. RS: k1, M1R, k12, M1L, k2, M1R, k12, M1L, k1. 32 sts.
2. WS: p all.
3. Work 5 rows even.
4. RS: k2tog, k12, k2tog, ssk, k12, ssk. 28 sts.
5. WS: p all.
6. Work 3 rows even.
7. RS: k2tog, k10, k2tog, ssk, k10, ssk. 24 sts.
8. WS: p all.

Work 4 rows even.

For neck:

1. RS: k1, k2tog, k18, ssk, k1. 22 sts.
2. WS: p all.
3. RS: k all.
4. WS: p all.
5. RS: k2tog, k18, ssk. 20 sts.
6. WS: p all.

Work 6 rows even. BO loosely.

Make a second identical body panel for the back, except work 2 extra rows at the neck to slightly raise the back neckline.

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Arms

Make 2

Using cream and 2.5 mm needles, CO 14 sts.

1. Row 1 WS: p all.
2. Row 2 RS: k all.
3. Rows 3 to 10: stockinette.
4. Row 11 RS: k1, kfb, k10, kfb, k1. 16 sts.
5. Row 12 WS: p all.
6. Rows 13 to 24: stockinette.
7. Row 25 RS: k2tog, k12, ssk. 14 sts.
8. Row 26 WS: p all.
9. Rows 27 to 34: stockinette.
10. Row 35 RS: k1, kfb, k10, kfb, k1. 16 sts.
11. Row 36 WS: p all.
12. Rows 37 to 42: stockinette.

Shape top of arm.

1. BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 12 sts.
2. RS: k2tog, k8, ssk. 10 sts.
3. WS: p all.
4. RS: k2tog, k6, ssk. 8 sts.
5. WS: p all.

BO remaining 8 sts.

Seam arms, stuff lightly through lower two-thirds only. Keep upper arm softer so it sits naturally against the body.

Head

The head is oval and slightly taller than wide. The face should be smooth, not bulbous. Make 2 panels in cream using 2.5 mm needles.

CO 18 sts.

1. Row 1 WS: p all.
2. Row 2 RS: k all.
3. Row 3 RS shaping row: k1, kfb, k14, kfb, k1. 20 sts.
4. Row 4 WS: p all.
5. Row 5 RS: k2, kfb, k14, kfb, k2. 22 sts.
6. Row 6 WS: p all.
7. Row 7 RS: k2, kfb, k16, kfb, k2. 24 sts.
8. Row 8 WS: p all.
9. Row 9 RS: k3, kfb, k16, kfb, k3. 26 sts.
10. Row 10 WS: p all.

Work 20 rows even in stockinette.

Shape crown.

1. RS: k3, k2tog, k16, ssk, k3. 24 sts.
2. WS: p all.
3. RS: k2, k2tog, k16, ssk, k2. 22 sts.
4. WS: p all.
5. RS: k2, k2tog, k14, ssk, k2. 20 sts.
6. WS: p all.
7. RS: k1, k2tog, k14, ssk, k1. 18 sts.
8. WS: p all.
9. RS: k2tog, k14, ssk. 16 sts.
10. WS: p all.

BO remaining 16 sts.

Seam around edge, leaving neck opening. Stuff gradually and evenly. The head should be firmer than the body but still soft enough for slight sculpting.

Ears

Make 2

Using cream and 2.5 mm needles, CO 8 sts.

1. Row 1 WS: p all.
2. Row 2 RS: k all.
3. Row 3 RS: k1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 4 WS: p all.
5. Row 5 RS: k1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
6. Row 6 WS: p all.
7. Row 7 RS: k2, kfb, k6, kfb, k2. 14 sts.
8. Rows 8 to 30: stockinette.

Begin taper.

1. RS: k1, k2tog, k8, ssk, k1. 12 sts.
2. WS: p all.
3. Work 3 rows even.
4. RS: k1, k2tog, k6, ssk, k1. 10 sts.
5. WS: p all.
6. Work 3 rows even.
7. RS: k1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1. 8 sts.
8. WS: p all.
9. RS: k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1. 6 sts.
10. WS: p all.

BO.

Fold each ear lengthwise slightly and seam only at lower third so the ear keeps a soft flat shape. Do not stuff. Lightly steam or finger-shape so they drape straight downward from beneath the bonnet.

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Assembly of Bunny Base

• Seam front and back body together.
• Stuff legs and lower body firmly, especially at the base.
• Add a small weighted pouch in the bottom if you want the toy to display more securely.
• Stuff upper torso moderately.
• Attach head to neck with strong sewing yarn, easing evenly all around.
• Sew ears to side upper head, slightly behind the face line, angled straight down.
• Attach arms level with upper torso, slightly forward-facing so the paws can hold the tea set.

Face Sculpting and Embroidery Base

Mark the eye placement before stitching. The eyes sit wide apart, centered horizontally on the upper half of the muzzle area. The face is very gentle and minimal.

• Place eyes about 9 to 10 rows above the neck seam.
• Space eyes about 9 to 10 stitches apart.
• Use black thread for small oval eyes or insert tiny safety eyes before final closing.
• Embroider a small inverted Y nose and mouth in warm brown.
• Use one vertical line of 4 to 5 knitted rows for the nose stem, then a short split mouth.

The expression should remain neutral and sweet, not smiling widely.

Cream Underdress

The cream underdress is full length with a central cable panel and a soft frilled lower band. It is knitted in sections for a tailored result.

Bodice and Upper Skirt Front

Using cream and 3 mm needles, CO 42 sts.

Set stitch pattern on RS rows:

• 6 sts seed or moss border
• 8 sts stockinette
• 8 sts cable panel
• 8 sts stockinette
• 6 sts cable panel
• 6 sts border

For a cleaner version matching the image, use this exact front layout:

• 5 sts border
• 8 sts side stockinette
• 8 sts cable
• 8 sts center cable
• 8 sts side stockinette
• 5 sts border

Work as follows:

1. Rows 1 to 6: work 4 rows stockinette with purl edge borders if preferred.
2. From Row 7 onward, maintain 8-st cable panels by crossing every 8th row.
3. Continue until piece measures from waist to hem center front length desired, about 6.5 inches.

To widen skirt:

1. Every 6th RS row, increase 1 st at each side of both cable panels and 1 st at each outer side edge.
2. Repeat increase row 5 times total. 52 sts.

Work even 10 rows.

Lower Frill

On next RS row, increase evenly across by 16 sts. 68 sts.

Work 6 rows stockinette.

Row for frill turn: p all on RS if you want a turning ridge, then work 6 more rows stockinette.

BO loosely.

Fold lower band upward slightly and tack at side seams only so it forms a soft ruffle, not a stiff pleat.

Underdress Back

Make 2 back pieces so the dress can open at back for dressing the bunny.

Using cream and 3 mm needles, CO 24 sts for each back piece.

Work stockinette with one 5-stitch inner edge in seed stitch for a neat opening band. Add one 8-st cable panel centered in each half if you want the back to echo the front lightly. Increase skirt width gradually to 30 sts on each back half.

Match the front length exactly.

Add the same frill treatment at the hem.

Sew shoulder seams, leave back open. Add tiny snaps or discreet stitched closure after dressing.

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Blue Bodice and Open Overskirt

This section gives the dress its exact identity. The pale blue upper bodice is fitted with a center cable panel and a deep V opening effect at the front where the cream underdress shows through. The lower blue layer falls open in front like a coat or overskirt.

Blue Bodice Fronts

Make 2 mirror pieces using pale blue and 3 mm needles.

CO 18 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: work in k1, p1 rib.
2. Row 5 RS: establish pattern as 4 border sts, 8 cable sts, 6 stockinette sts.
3. Work cable crossing every 8th row.

Shape neckline on inner edge so each panel curves into a deep V.

1. Decrease 1 st at neckline edge every 4th row 6 times.
2. At same time, increase 1 st at side seam edge every 8th row 3 times for bust shaping.

Work until bodice reaches shoulder height to fit your bunny torso. BO shoulder stitches. Keep lower stitches live if you prefer to pick up directly for skirt panels.

Blue Bodice Back

Using pale blue, CO 34 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib.
2. Rows 5 onward: stockinette with one central 8-st cable panel and 4-st borders.
3. Work even to match front height.

Shape back neck by BO center 12 sts, then work each side separately for 2 rows and BO shoulders.

Joining Bodice

• Sew shoulder seams.
• Sew side seams to waist only.
• The lower skirt panels remain separate and open at front.

Blue Overskirt Panels

Pick up stitches along lower edge of each front bodice panel, or knit separately and sew on.

For each front panel, pick up 34 sts along waist edge.

1. Work 8 rows stockinette.
2. Increase 1 st at each side every 6th row 6 times. 46 sts.
3. Continue until panel reaches the same hem level as cream dress.

Add a soft deep ruffle to outer and lower edge:

1. On final RS row before ruffle, increase evenly by 14 sts. 60 sts.
2. Work 8 rows stockinette.
3. BO loosely on RS.

Make 2 matching panels. Sew only at side seams. Leave center front fully open.

Blue Bodice Sleeves or Sleeve Bands

The bunny itself has cream arms, while the dress appears to include pale blue upper sleeves ending above the wrist, with cream paws visible below. For that effect, make two short sleeve tubes or cuffs.

Using pale blue, CO 18 sts.

1. Work 18 rows stockinette.
2. Shape very lightly by increasing 2 sts evenly in middle section if needed.
3. BO.

Seam each into a tube and slip over arm. Position so cream paw and lower forearm remain visible.

Cream Frill Cuffs

Using cream and 2.5 mm needles, CO 28 sts.

1. Work 4 rows stockinette.
2. Increase every other stitch across. 42 sts.
3. Work 4 more rows stockinette.
4. BO loosely.

Gather one long edge gently and stitch around sleeve ends to form ruffled cuffs. Add tiny rolled roses at the outer upper cuff edge as shown.

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Bonnet

The bonnet is pale blue, rounded, softly gathered, trimmed in cream, and decorated with bluebell flowers on one side. It sits low on the forehead and frames the face closely.

Bonnet Main Piece

Using pale blue and 3 mm needles, CO 58 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 6: work in k1, p1 rib.
2. Rows 7 to 26: stockinette.
3. Row 27 RS: k2tog across. 29 sts.
4. Row 28 WS: p all.
5. Row 29 RS: k2tog across to end, k1. 15 sts.
6. Row 30 WS: p all.

Thread yarn through remaining sts and draw up to shape back crown.

Seam back of bonnet.

Bonnet Face Frill

Using cream and 2.5 mm needles, pick up 54 to 58 sts evenly around face opening.

1. Work 2 rows garter.
2. Increase every 3rd stitch across.
3. Work 4 rows stockinette.
4. BO loosely.

Allow frill to curl softly outward. Do not make it too large. The image shows a narrow, delicate frill.

Bonnet Ties

Make two cream i-cords of 12 inches each, 3 stitches wide. Stitch to lower bonnet edges. Tie loosely under neck.

Bluebell Floral Embellishments

The image shows dimensional bluebell sprays on the bonnet and lower overskirt, plus small cream and dusty rose rosettes with green leaves. These details matter a lot to the final look.

Knitted Bluebell Petals

Make 9 to 12 small bells total in blue.

For each bell, CO 6 sts.

1. Row 1 WS: p all.
2. Row 2 RS: k all.
3. Row 3 RS: k1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1. 8 sts.
4. Row 4 WS: p all.
5. Row 5 RS: k all.
6. Row 6 WS: p2tog across. 4 sts.

Break yarn, thread through 4 sts, draw into a tiny bell cup. Stitch side seam lightly.

Flower Stems

Use green yarn and crochet or embroider thin stems. If knitting only, make narrow i-cords with 2 stitches and tack them into curved stems.

Arrange 3 to 4 bells per spray so they hang downward naturally.

Rolled Roses

Make 8 to 10 tiny roses in cream and a few in dusty blush.

For each rose, CO 24 sts in cream.

1. Rows 1 and 2: stockinette.
2. Row 3 RS: kfb in every stitch. 48 sts.
3. Row 4 WS: p all.

BO loosely. Roll strip tightly from one end and stitch base closed. Flatten slightly for a rose effect.

Leaves

For each leaf, CO 3 sts in green.

1. Row 1: k.
2. Row 2: p.
3. Row 3: k1, kfb, k1. 4 sts.
4. Row 4: p.
5. Row 5: k1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1. 6 sts.
6. Row 6: p.
7. Row 7: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
8. Row 8: p.
9. Row 9: k2tog, k2tog. 2 sts.
10. Row 10: p2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off.

Placement of Floral Embellishments

• Bonnet right side: one main bluebell spray with 4 to 5 blue bells, 2 small leaves, and 1 tiny cream rose
• Neckline center: one small cream rose over the blue bodice
• Each cuff: one cream rose and tiny leaf cluster
• Lower front blue overskirt panels: one bluebell spray plus clustered roses near the hem on each side
• Bag flap: one small cream rose with 2 leaves

Handbag

The handbag is pale blue, soft rectangular, with a narrow strap and floral flap.

Using pale blue and 2.5 mm needles, CO 20 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 24: work stockinette.
2. Rows 25 to 28: work garter stitch for flap edge.
3. BO.

Fold lower half upward to form bag body, leaving top section as flap. Seam sides.

For strap, make a 3-st i-cord about 9 inches long. Stitch securely to side upper edges.

Add one cream rose and green leaves to the flap.

Shoes

The tiny shoes are pale blue Mary Jane style slippers placed separately in front of the bunny.

Make 2 Soles

Using pale blue and 2.5 mm needles, CO 10 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: stockinette.
2. Row 5 RS: k1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
3. Rows 6 to 10: stockinette.
4. BO.

Shoe Upper

Pick up 10 sts across one long edge of sole.

1. Work 6 rows stockinette.
2. Next RS: k2tog, k6, ssk. 8 sts.
3. Work 2 rows.
4. Next RS: k2tog, k4, ssk. 6 sts.
5. Work 2 rows.

Draw yarn through sts and gather toe. Seam back. Add a short stitched strap across instep if desired.

Stuff very lightly or leave empty for display.

Teapot

The teapot is knitted in warm taupe with a cream-blue lid accent. It should be small and round with a short spout and curled handle.

Pot Body

Using taupe and 2.5 mm double-pointed needles, CO 8 sts and divide over needles.

1. Round 1: k all.
2. Round 2: kfb around. 16 sts.
3. Round 3: k.
4. Round 4: kfb every other stitch. 24 sts.
5. Round 5: k.
6. Round 6: k3, M1, repeat around. 30 sts.
7. Rounds 7 to 15: knit even.
8. Round 16: k3, k2tog repeat around. 24 sts.
9. Round 17: knit.
10. Round 18: k2, k2tog repeat around. 18 sts.
11. Round 19: knit.
12. Round 20: k1, k2tog repeat around. 12 sts.

Stuff lightly before closing. Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, close.

Spout

CO 6 sts and knit 8 rows stockinette. Decrease to 4 sts over next 2 RS rows. Seam into a tapered tube and attach to front side.

Handle

Make a 3-st i-cord 3 inches long. Curve and stitch to opposite side.

Lid

Using cream or pale blue, CO 8 sts in the round.

1. Round 1: k.
2. Round 2: kfb around. 16 sts.
3. Rounds 3 and 4: knit.
4. Round 5: k2tog around. 8 sts.

Add a small knob by wrapping yarn several times at center. Stitch lid to pot lightly so it sits neatly.

Teacup and Saucer

Cup

Using taupe or soft gray-taupe, CO 18 sts in the round.

1. Rounds 1 to 6: knit.
2. Round 7: purl all for a subtle rim line.
3. Rounds 8 and 9: knit.
4. Round 10: k2tog around. 9 sts.

Stuff or line lightly if needed, then close base with sewing. Make a tiny handle from a short 3-st i-cord or twisted cord and stitch to side.

Saucer

Using pale blue, CO 8 sts in the round.

1. Round 1: kfb around. 16 sts.
2. Round 2: knit.
3. Round 3: k1, M1 around. 24 sts.
4. Round 4: purl all.
5. Round 5: knit.

BO loosely.

Jam Jar

The jam jar is tiny but very recognizable, with a red body, cream lid cover, and stitched label.

Using red and 2.5 mm needles, CO 18 sts in the round.

1. Rounds 1 to 10: knit.
2. Round 11: k2tog around. 9 sts.

Stuff lightly and close.

For lid cover, knit a small beige circle like the saucer but smaller, ending at 16 sts total. Gather over top of jar. Wrap a narrow strand around the neck to suggest tied fabric.

For label, stitch a tiny cream rectangle and embroider Jam in contrasting thread.

Tea Cakes Plate

Plate

Using cream, make a flat circle:

1. CO 8 sts in the round.
2. Round 1: kfb around. 16 sts.
3. Round 2: knit.
4. Round 3: k1, M1 around. 24 sts.
5. Round 4: purl all.
6. Round 5: knit.
7. BO loosely.

Mini Cakes

Make 3 tiny flat sandwich cakes in cream, pale pink, and tan. Each can be formed from a narrow knitted strip rolled into a shallow round, or tiny circles stitched together in layers. Add one small pink swirl and one red cherry detail on top of one cake to echo the photo.

Dressing the Bunny

1. Put on the cream underdress first and close at back.
2. Fit the blue bodice over the torso and sew or close discreetly at back.
3. Arrange the two blue front overskirt panels so the cream center skirt remains fully visible.
4. Slide the short pale blue sleeve pieces over the arms.
5. Attach cream frill cuffs at sleeve ends.
6. Tie bonnet under the neck with a soft bow.
7. Place handbag over one arm.
8. Position teapot in one paw and cup in the other.

If the piece is for display only, you may tack accessories into place with a few hidden stitches. If it is for gentle handling, secure all mini pieces firmly and omit any parts that could loosen.

How to Match the Image More Closely

• Keep the palette muted: cream, pale blue, dusty taupe, and soft green
• Use narrow cables, not bulky ones
• Do not make the bonnet brim too wide
• Keep ears long, slim, and hanging straight down
• Allow the blue overskirt to open clearly at center front
• Place bluebell embroidery low on the skirt panels, not too high
• Make the roses small and refined, never oversized
• Keep the face simple, with tiny eyes and a fine stitched nose

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Once all clothing is fitted, check that the head sits centered over the dress neckline and that both ears fall evenly beneath the bonnet. Add the eyes first, then the nose and mouth, and only after that secure the bonnet permanently if desired.

Place the arms slightly forward and inward so the bunny looks naturally posed for tea service. Attach accessories with tiny hidden stitches only where needed. Give the skirt and overskirt a final hand-shape so the front opening and layered hems show clearly.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from strong direct sunlight
• Avoid rough play because of the many small decorative pieces
• Spot clean whenever possible
• Do not machine wash
• Store flat or upright with tissue support under the skirt

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both eyes level and evenly spaced?
• Does the blue overskirt stay open to reveal the cream center panel?
• Are the bonnet flowers placed on one side only?
• Do the cuffs, bag, and hem all include floral accents?
• Are the accessories balanced and scaled small enough for the bunny?
• Does the face remain soft and minimal?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a soft dry brush or low-suction handheld vacuum through a mesh cloth to remove dust. For marks, dab gently with a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap, then blot with a dry towel. Do not soak the toy, bonnet, or accessories.

To preserve shape, keep the bunny away from moisture, heat, and long periods of compression. When storing, wrap the accessories separately in tissue and support the bonnet, ears, and skirt so the vintage silhouette stays crisp and elegant.