This knitted penguin is a soft, collectible spring toy with sweet woodland details and a charming handmade look. The rounded body, olive daisy overalls, flower crown, little sandals, slouchy sun hat, leaf bag, and tiny watering can make it perfect for nursery decor, baby shower gifting, seasonal display, or anyone searching for a handmade penguin doll pattern with boutique style. If you love heirloom toys, artist teddy styling, and cottage garden accessories, this design brings all of those details together in one cuddly knitted project while still keeping the shaping approachable and rewarding.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Overview
This pattern is written in US English and is designed to recreate the exact visual style of the penguin shown in the image: a plump gray penguin with a white face panel, tiny rounded wings, a soft yellow beak, blush cheeks, olive-green overalls embroidered with white daisies, a green flower crown, yellow bonnet hat, cream leaf-texture shoulder bag, green sandals with daisy accents, and miniature garden accessories.
The construction is broken into clear sections so you can build the toy in a neat order without losing the proportions. The body is worked from the legs upward, the head is shaped separately, the face is added as a knitted panel, and the accessories are made one by one for accurate styling.
The finished toy is intended to measure about 10 to 11 inches tall from the top of the head to the soles of the sandals, not including the floppy hat. With the hat on, the total height visually reads a little taller, but the body itself stays compact and rounded exactly like the model in the image.
Skill Level
Intermediate, mainly because the pattern uses shaping, small parts, mattress seaming, light embroidery, duplicate stitch placement, and accessory finishing. A confident beginner can still make it by following each section carefully and checking stitch counts often.
Materials
- Main penguin gray: DK weight yarn, soft halo or brushed blend preferred, about 80 to 100 g
- Face and belly white: DK weight yarn, about 30 g
- Beak and sandal soles pale yellow: small amount
- Overalls olive green: DK weight yarn, about 40 to 50 g
- Hat yellow: DK weight yarn, about 20 to 25 g
- Bag cream: DK weight yarn, about 15 to 20 g
- Flower crown green: small amount
- Daisy petals white and centers yellow: tiny amounts
- Small black safety eyes: 8 mm, or black buttons if for display only
- Fiberfill stuffing
- 2.75 mm and 3.25 mm knitting needles
- Set of double-pointed needles in matching sizes, or magic loop if preferred
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Fine sewing needle and matching thread for securing tiny accessories
- Pink blush yarn or soft pastel pencil for cheeks
- Thin craft wire, optional, for the watering can spout and handle support
Gauge
28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on 3.25 mm needles after light blocking.
Gauge matters because the penguin in the image has a dense, smooth, tightly stuffed body with very little stitch spread. If your fabric looks loose, go down a needle size. The finished toy should feel firm and hold a rounded silhouette without sagging.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- BO = bind off
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- p2tog = purl 2 together
- M1L = make 1 left
- M1R = make 1 right
- yo = yarn over
- rep = repeat
- sl = slip
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Color Notes and Visual Accuracy
To match the image closely, keep the gray body a medium cool gray rather than charcoal. The face should be bright but soft white, not cream. The overalls need to be an earthy olive-green rather than grass green. The hat is a muted butter yellow. The bag is cream, and the sandals should combine olive straps with pale yellow footbeds.
The penguin is wider through the tummy than through the head. The head is slightly squarer at the lower half because the white face panel fills the center and the gray sides frame it. The arms are short, narrow, and softly curved downward. The legs are built into the body rather than standing apart as long tubes.
Main Body and Legs
Work the legs first, then join for the lower body. Use gray yarn and 3.25 mm needles. You may work in the round for the smoothest result. Stuff as you go, especially in the feet and lower belly, to maintain the compact shape from the photo.
Right Leg
- CO 12 sts. Divide evenly for working in the round.
- Rnd 1: Knit.
- Rnd 2: Kfb in each st. 24 sts.
- Rnds 3-6: Knit.
- Rnd 7: K4, k2tog, k12, ssk, k4. 22 sts.
- Rnd 8: Knit.
- Rnd 9: K4, k2tog, k10, ssk, k4. 20 sts.
- Rnds 10-16: Knit.
- Rnd 17: K2tog around. 10 sts.
- Stuff lower foot lightly.
- Rnds 18-24: Knit 10.
- Leave stitches on holder.
Left Leg
Work the same as Right Leg but do not break yarn at the end.
Join Legs for Body
- Knit across Left Leg 10 sts.
- CO 4 sts for crotch bridge.
- Knit across Right Leg 10 sts.
- CO 4 sts for back bridge. 28 sts total.
- Place marker for beginning of round.
Lower Body Shaping
- Rnd 1: Knit.
- Rnd 2: K1, M1L, knit to 1 st before back bridge, M1R, k1, k1, M1L, knit to 1 st before end, M1R, k1. 32 sts.
- Rnd 3: Knit.
- Rnd 4: Repeat increase round. 36 sts.
- Rnd 5: Knit.
- Rnd 6: Repeat increase round. 40 sts.
- Rnd 7: Knit.
- Rnd 8: Repeat increase round. 44 sts.
- Rnds 9-16: Knit.
At this point the penguin should begin looking short and pear-shaped, with the belly growing outward rather than upward. Add stuffing into the legs and crotch area before the opening becomes difficult to access.
Tummy Expansion
- Rnd 17: K4, M1L, knit to 4 sts before halfway point, M1R, k8, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, M1R, k4. 48 sts.
- Rnd 18: Knit.
- Rnd 19: K4, M1L, knit to 4 sts before halfway point, M1R, k8, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, M1R, k4. 52 sts.
- Rnds 20-28: Knit.
Stuff firmly now. The lower body in the picture is full and rounded, and the overalls sit over a plump belly. Do not under-stuff this section.
Upper Body and Neck Reduction
- Rnd 29: K4, k2tog, knit to 6 sts before halfway point, ssk, k8, k2tog, knit to last 6 sts, ssk, k4. 48 sts.
- Rnd 30: Knit.
- Rnd 31: Repeat Rnd 29. 44 sts.
- Rnd 32: Knit.
- Rnd 33: K3, k2tog, knit to 5 sts before halfway point, ssk, k6, k2tog, knit to last 5 sts, ssk, k3. 40 sts.
- Rnd 34: Knit.
- Rnd 35: K2, k2tog, knit to 4 sts before halfway point, ssk, k4, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 36 sts.
- Rnds 36-40: Knit.
BO loosely, leaving a long tail. The top remains open because the head will be sewn on afterward. Set aside.
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Head
Use gray yarn. The head is separate so the face can be positioned neatly and the slight forward tilt from the image can be controlled during assembly.
- CO 12 sts. Join in the round.
- Rnd 1: Knit.
- Rnd 2: Kfb in each st. 24 sts.
- Rnd 3: Knit.
- Rnd 4: K1, kfb around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 5: Knit.
- Rnd 6: K2, kfb around. 48 sts.
- Rnds 7-16: Knit.
The head in the photo is not a perfect sphere. It is slightly taller than wide but still soft and rounded. To create that gentle shape, keep the next few rounds smooth and avoid dramatic increases.
- Rnd 17: Knit.
- Rnd 18: K6, k2tog around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 19: Knit.
- Rnd 20: K5, k2tog around. 36 sts.
- Begin stuffing firmly, especially at the forehead and cheeks.
- Rnd 21: K4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 22: Knit.
- Rnd 23: K3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 24: K2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 25: K1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
- Thread yarn through remaining sts and draw closed.
Shape the head gently with your fingers so the face area stays slightly flatter than the back.
White Face Panel
This panel is crucial for accuracy. The image shows a broad white face that fills most of the front of the head, with soft gray framing at the sides and top. Work flat in white yarn.
- CO 10 sts.
- Row 1: Purl.
- Row 2: K1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
- Row 3: Purl.
- Row 4: K1, kfb, k8, kfb, k1. 14 sts.
- Row 5: Purl.
- Row 6: K1, kfb, k10, kfb, k1. 16 sts.
- Rows 7-14: Work in stockinette.
- Row 15: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
- Row 16: Purl.
- Row 17: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
- Row 18: Purl.
- Row 19: BO knitwise.
Steam very lightly or finger-press flat. Sew this panel centered on the lower front of the gray head, leaving a gray cap above it and narrow gray borders at each side.
Wings
Make 2 in gray. Work flat.
- CO 8 sts.
- Row 1: Purl.
- Row 2: K1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1. 10 sts.
- Row 3: Purl.
- Rows 4-10: Stockinette.
- Row 11: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
- Row 12: Purl.
- Row 13: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
- Row 14: Purl.
- Row 15: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
- Row 16: Purl.
- BO.
Sew side edges together lightly, stuff only a whisper of filling, and flatten. The wings in the image are slim and softly drooping, not puffy.
Beak
Use pale yellow. Work flat.
- CO 6 sts.
- Row 1: Purl.
- Row 2: Knit.
- Row 3: Purl.
- Row 4: K1, k2tog, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
- Row 5: Purl.
- BO.
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Fold into a tiny cone, seam, and stuff with a pea-sized bit of filling. The beak should be short, centered, and softly rounded rather than pointed.
Overalls
The overalls are olive green and fit close to the body like a romper. They are sleeveless, slightly high at the chest, and end just above the sandals. The fabric in the image is smooth stockinette with embroidered daisies added afterward.
Work from the lower legs upward in one piece, similar to a garment shell that slides onto the body before final seaming or can be sewn directly around the stuffed penguin. If preferred, knit flat and seam at center back.
Leg Sections
- CO 12 sts for first leg. Work 10 rows in 1×1 rib.
- Switch to stockinette and work 12 rows.
- Place on holder.
- Make second leg the same.
Join for Romper
- Knit across first leg, CO 4 sts, knit across second leg, CO 4 sts. 32 sts.
- Work 18 rows in stockinette.
- Increase Row: K1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1. 34 sts.
- Work 5 rows even.
- Increase Row: Repeat. 36 sts.
- Work 8 rows even.
Hold the piece against the body as you work. The overalls should stretch gently over the belly without looking tight.
Chest and Strap Opening
- Row 1 RS: Knit 9, BO 4, knit 10, BO 4, knit 9.
- You now have left back, front bib, and right back sections.
- Work each side separately for 4 rows in stockinette.
Front Bib
- On center 10 sts, work 8 rows in stockinette.
- Next RS row: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 8 sts.
- Work 4 rows even.
- BO.
Back Upper Edges
Work each back 9-st section for 6 rows in stockinette, then BO. Sew neatly at center back if you worked flat. Slip over body and stitch around neckline and leg edges invisibly.
Straps
- Using olive yarn, CO 28 sts for each strap.
- Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
- BO.
Sew one end of each strap to the top corners of the back section and the other ends to the top of the front bib, crossing very slightly inward so the look matches the image. The straps should frame the white face and not sit too wide.
Daisy Embroidery on Overalls
The daisies are an important visual element. They are scattered evenly across the romper front, with a few near the side edges and one near the crotch area. Use white yarn for petals and yellow for centers.
- Make each flower with 5 to 7 straight stitches radiating from one point.
- Each petal should be about 2 knitted rows long.
- Add a tiny yellow French knot or one horizontal satin stitch in the center.
- Space flowers irregularly but evenly.
- Keep the largest daisies near the chest and upper thighs.
- Add 9 to 11 daisies total on the romper front for the fullest match to the image.
Do not overfill the fabric with flowers. The green background should still show clearly.
Sandals
Make 2. These are small open-front sandals with pale yellow inner sole, cream outer sole edge, olive straps, and a daisy on each toe area.
Sole Base
- With pale yellow, CO 8 sts.
- Rows 1-4: Garter stitch.
- Row 5: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb. 10 sts.
- Rows 6-8: Garter stitch.
- BO.
Outer Sole Edge
With cream, pick up 1 stitch in each garter ridge around the sole and work 1 round knit. BO loosely. This creates the light edge seen along the bottom of the sandal.
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Front Strap
- With olive, CO 6 sts.
- Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
- BO.
Ankle Strap
- With olive, CO 10 sts.
- Work 2 rows garter.
- BO.
Sew the front strap over the front half of the foot. Sew the ankle strap around the top of the sandal and onto the sides so it sits diagonally upward just a little, matching the delicate look in the image.
Daisy for Sandals
- Make 2 tiny daisies using 5 detached-chain style embroidery petals in white.
- Add one yellow center stitch.
- Sew one flower to the outer side of each front strap.
Flower Crown
The flower crown is a soft green vine with tiny yellow blossoms. It sits across the top of the head, not low over the eyes.
Vine
- With green, CO 34 sts.
- Rows 1-2: Garter stitch.
- BO.
Leaf Bumps
Along one long edge, use the yarn tail to pinch tiny gathers every 6 to 7 stitches so the band becomes softly wavy rather than perfectly flat.
Flowers
- Make 5 tiny flowers in pale yellow.
- For each, CO 5 sts, BO all on next row with picot-like firmness, then roll into a mini blossom.
- Or use embroidered loop petals if preferred.
- Sew flowers evenly around the vine, leaving slight green gaps between them.
Join the crown into a ring sized to the head circumference and tack it lightly in place after the hat is positioned.
Sun Hat
The yellow hat is floppy and slouches to one side. It is decorated with white daisies and sits behind the flower crown, drooping down the penguin’s left side in the photo.
Hat Body
- With yellow and 3.25 mm needles, CO 56 sts. Join in the round.
- Rnds 1-6: Work 1×1 rib.
- Rnd 7: Knit.
- Rnd 8: K7, M1 around. 63 sts.
- Rnds 9-20: Knit.
- Rnd 21: K8, M1 around. 70 sts.
- Rnds 22-28: Knit.
This gentle expansion makes the hat loosen and slouch naturally. For more flop, steam lightly after finishing.
Brim
- Rnd 29: K6, M1 around. 80 sts.
- Rnd 30: Knit.
- Rnd 31: Purl.
- Rnd 32: Knit.
- Rnd 33: Purl.
- BO loosely knitwise.
Fold the lower ribbed edge up slightly inside if needed so the hat sits neatly without swallowing the face.
Hat Daisies
- Embroider 4 to 5 white daisies with yellow centers on the drooping side of the hat.
- Cluster them loosely rather than spacing them perfectly.
- Place most of them on the visible side panel, just as shown in the image.
Leaf Shoulder Bag
The bag is cream and shaped like a leaf with a textured central vein. Make one.
Bag Front
- CO 3 sts in cream.
- Row 1: Purl.
- Row 2: Kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
- Row 3: Purl.
- Row 4: K1, kfb, k1, kfb, k1. 7 sts.
- Row 5: Purl.
- Row 6: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 9 sts.
- Rows 7-18: Work in stockinette, but on RS rows knit the center stitch through back loop every time to create a visible raised vein.
- Row 19: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 7 sts.
- Row 20: Purl.
- Row 21: K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. 5 sts.
- Row 22: Purl.
- Row 23: K2tog, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
- BO.
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Bag Back
Work the same but without the twisted center vein detail.
Strap
- CO 46 sts in cream.
- Work 3 rows garter.
- BO.
Sew the front and back together around the edges, leaving the top open. Add a tiny red-and-black ladybug embellishment if desired to match the image exactly.
Mini Watering Can
This accessory is small, pale beige, and lightly ribbed. It is decorative and can be made as a simple knitted prop.
Can Body
- CO 18 sts in beige. Join in round.
- Rnds 1-8: K1, p1 rib.
- Rnd 9: Knit.
- Rnd 10: K2tog around. 9 sts.
- Thread yarn through sts and pull closed for base.
Turn upside down so the ribbing runs vertically. Pick up 18 sts at open edge and work 2 rounds knit for the top lip. BO loosely.
Spout
- CO 4 sts and work i-cord for 3 inches.
- Sew one end to can body at an upward angle.
- Flatten the opposite tip slightly and stitch closed.
Handle
- CO 14 sts and work 2 rows garter.
- BO and sew into a loop on side of can.
Ladybug Accent
The image includes tiny red ladybugs, one near the bag and one placed beside the penguin. You may add one to the bag for accuracy.
- Make a tiny red oval by wrapping yarn around 4 sts and securing tightly.
- Add a black head and a few black seed stitches.
- Sew to the lower front of the leaf bag.
Eye Placement and Facial Features
Insert or sew the eyes through the white face panel after confirming symmetry. The eyes are small, glossy, and placed slightly wide apart. Position them about 6 rows down from the top edge of the face panel and about 5 stitches apart.
The beak sits centered 3 to 4 rows below the eyes. Add very soft blush at each side of the lower face with pale pink yarn fuzz or a tiny amount of pastel. Keep it subtle. The expression should remain calm, sweet, and baby-like.
Assembly Order
- Sew the white face panel to the head.
- Attach eyes.
- Sew and stuff the beak, then attach to center face.
- Attach wings at the upper side seams of the body, angled slightly downward.
- Sew head to body with a slight forward tilt.
- Fit overalls onto body and stitch in place.
- Sew straps.
- Embroider daisies on overalls.
- Attach sandals to feet.
- Place flower crown around head.
- Position hat behind crown and tack lightly so it droops to the penguin’s left.
- Sew bag strap from right shoulder to left hip so the bag rests across the front exactly as shown.
- Place watering can separately as a prop.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Check the head angle first because it changes the entire personality of the toy. A slight forward tilt gives the same gentle, curious expression seen in the image. Keep the beak centered and low enough to leave a broad forehead. If needed, add one or two hidden tacking stitches at the cheeks to hold the face panel smooth.
Before finishing, smooth the stuffing so the tummy stays rounded, the head stays even, and the wings lie flat. Adjust the hat only after the flower crown is secured. The bag should cross the chest diagonally and sit near the left hip without covering too many daisies.
Care Notes
- Display pieces with embellishments are best for gentle handling only.
- Spot clean whenever possible.
- Do not machine wash if the toy includes wire, buttons, or glued accents.
- Store away from direct sunlight to preserve the yellow and olive tones.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Is the body firmly stuffed and nicely rounded?
- Are the eyes even and slightly wide-set?
- Is the beak centered under the eyes?
- Do the overalls fit snugly without pulling?
- Are 9 to 11 daisies embroidered on the romper front?
- Does the flower crown sit above the face, not across it?
- Does the hat droop to one side?
- Is the bag crossing from shoulder to opposite hip?
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
For long-term preservation, keep the penguin in a clean, dry space and avoid compressing the hat or flower crown during storage. To refresh the shape, gently steam from a distance and reshape by hand once dry. Use acid-free tissue around delicate accessories if storing seasonally, and never hang the toy by the bag strap or hat.



