Sunny Sunflower Bunny – Knitting

This keepsake bunny is dressed like a tiny spring daydream, with a soft beret, a sweet green skirt, and lily-of-the-valley blossoms tucked everywhere. If you love shopping for amigurumi yarn, safety eyes, fiberfill stuffing, and a reliable crochet hook set, this project is a cozy reason to stock up and stitch something heirloom-cute.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

• Bunny: about 10–11 in (25–28 cm) tall including shoes, using the suggested yarn and hook.
• Beret: fits the bunny head snugly with a soft slouch.
• Bird: about 3.5–4 in (9–10 cm) long.

Supplies

• Yarn (DK/light worsted, smooth cotton or cotton blend recommended):
• Body color: warm cream/beige.
• Inner ear: blush pink.
• Skirt: soft sage green.
• Beret: olive green.
• Shoes + bag: medium caramel brown.
• Flowers: white.
• Stems/leaves: light green.
• Bird: white; tiny bit of pink for beak.
• Crochet hook: 2.25–2.75 mm (choose a size that makes tight fabric).
• Two black safety eyes: 10–12 mm (match your scale).
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors.
• Optional: blush/soft pastel chalk for cheeks, strong thread for sculpting.
• Optional: thin craft wire for strap stability (not required).

Skill Level

• Confident beginner to intermediate (small parts and neat sewing).
• Best results come from tight, even stitches and careful placement.

Stitch Guide

• Work in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise.
• Use a stitch marker to track round starts.
• Stuff firmly but do not stretch stitches so stuffing shows.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase (2 sc in same st)
• dec = decrease (invisible decrease recommended)
• sl st = slip stitch
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• blo = back loop only
• flo = front loop only
• ( ) = repeat instructions within parentheses
• [ ] = stitch count at end of round

Color Plan

• Head, body, arms, legs, outer ears: cream/beige.
• Inner ears: blush pink.
• Dress: cream bodice with sage green skirt.
• Beret: olive green with a small top loop and side bow.
• Lily-of-the-valley: white bells with green stems.
• Bag and shoes: caramel brown.
• Bird: white with pink beak and green flower sprig.

Part 1: Head (Cream/Beige)

The head is a smooth, slightly wide sphere with gentle cheeks. Keep stitches tight and even. The face sits low enough to leave room for the beret brim and the floppy ears.

1. R1: MR 6 sc. [6]
2. R2: inc around. [12]
3. R3: (sc, inc) around. [18]
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around. [24]
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) around. [30]
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) around. [36]
7. R7: (5 sc, inc) around. [42]
8. R8: (6 sc, inc) around. [48]
9. R9–R18: sc around. [48]

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Place safety eyes between R13 and R14, about 10–11 stitches apart. For the pictured look, set them slightly wide so the face feels calm and sweet. Add a tiny stitch of white under each eye if you like a soft highlight.

1. R19: (6 sc, dec) around. [42]
2. R20: sc around. [42]
3. R21: (5 sc, dec) around. [36]
4. R22: (4 sc, dec) around. [30]
5. R23: (3 sc, dec) around. [24]
6. Begin stuffing. Shape cheeks by adding a bit more stuffing low on the face.
7. R24: (2 sc, dec) around. [18]
8. R25: (sc, dec) around. [12]
9. R26: dec around. [6]
10. Fasten off. Close the hole neatly.

Face Embroidery

• Nose: with brown embroidery thread, stitch a tiny “Y” nose centered between eyes, about 2 rounds below the eye line.
• Mouth: extend two short lines down and out from the nose point for a gentle bunny mouth.
• Brows: stitch two short curved lines above the eyes, angled slightly upward toward the center, matching the photo’s calm expression.
• Cheeks: lightly blush below each eye with pastel or diluted fabric tint.

Part 2: Ears (Make 2 Outer + 2 Inner, Then Join)

The ears are long, floppy, and slightly tapered, with pink inner panels that sit centered and stop short of the edges. This creates the clean border seen in the photo.

Outer Ear (Cream/Beige) x2

1. R1: MR 6 sc. [6]
2. R2: (sc, inc) around. [9]
3. R3: sc around. [9]
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around. [12]
5. R5–R18: sc around. [12]
6. R19: (2 sc, dec) around. [9]
7. R20–R24: sc around. [9]
8. Flatten the opening and sc across both layers to close (about 4–5 sc).
9. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Inner Ear (Blush Pink) x2

Work in rows to create a neat oval panel. Keep it slightly narrower than the outer ear so a cream border shows.

1. Ch 7.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6 sc). Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2: inc, sc 4, inc (8 sc). Ch 1, turn.
4. Row 3–10: sc across (8 sc). Ch 1, turn.
5. Row 11: dec, sc 4, dec (6 sc). Ch 1, turn.
6. Row 12: sc across (6 sc). Fasten off, leave a tail.

Attach Inner Ear Panels

• Center each pink panel on an outer ear, leaving an even cream border.
• Whipstitch around the pink panel edges, keeping stitches tidy and flat.
• Do not stuff ears. Keep them soft and drapey like the photo.

Part 3: Arms (Cream/Beige) x2

The arms are simple and slightly tapered, with rounded hands. They hang naturally at the sides, so keep them lightly stuffed and flexible near the top.

1. R1: MR 6 sc. [6]
2. R2: inc around. [12]
3. R3–R5: sc around. [12]
4. R6: (4 sc, dec) twice. [10]
5. R7–R16: sc around. [10]
6. Stuff the hand and lower arm firmly. Keep upper arm softer.
7. R17: (3 sc, dec) twice. [8]
8. R18–R21: sc around. [8]
9. Flatten the opening and sc across both layers to close (4 sc).
10. Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Part 4: Legs (Cream/Beige) Make 2, Then Join

The legs are straight with small feet hidden inside the shoes. Make both identical. Stuff firmly so the bunny stands well.

Leg x2

1. R1: MR 6 sc. [6]
2. R2: inc around. [12]
3. R3: (sc, inc) around. [18]
4. R4–R6: sc around. [18]
5. R7: (4 sc, dec) around. [15]
6. R8–R18: sc around. [15]
7. Stuff firmly, especially the lower leg.
8. Fasten off the first leg. Do not fasten off the second leg.

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Join Legs + Start Body

Position legs so the toes face forward. The join creates a stable hip line under the skirt.

1. On the second leg, sc 6 more to reach the inner side.
2. Ch 3, join to the first leg with sc in any stitch.
3. Work around first leg: sc 15.
4. Sc into each of the 3 chains (across the gap).
5. Work around second leg: sc 15.
6. Sc into the other side of the 3 chains. [36]

Part 5: Body (Cream/Beige)

The body is gently rounded with a subtle waist. The dress bodice will sit smoothly over it, so avoid bulky shaping. Keep the neck opening small enough to support the head.

1. R1 (Body round 1): sc around. [36]
2. R2: (5 sc, dec) around. [30]
3. R3–R6: sc around. [30]
4. R7: (3 sc, dec) around. [24]
5. R8–R11: sc around. [24]
6. R12: (2 sc, dec) around. [18]
7. R13–R15: sc around. [18]
8. Begin stuffing. Add extra stuffing in the belly and back for balance.
9. R16: (sc, inc) around. [27]
10. R17: sc around. [27]
11. R18: (2 sc, inc) around. [36]
12. R19–R20: sc around. [36]
13. R21: (4 sc, dec) around. [30]
14. R22: sc around. [30]
15. R23: (3 sc, dec) around. [24]
16. R24: sc around. [24]
17. R25: (2 sc, dec) around. [18]
18. R26: sc around. [18]
19. R27: (sc, dec) around. [12]
20. R28: sc around. [12]
21. Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing head later.

Part 6: Dress (Cream Bodice + Sage Skirt)

The dress is a single piece: cream bodice with puff sleeves and a sage skirt. It is designed to fit snugly and sit high on the waist, matching the photo’s proportions. Work from the neckline downward, then add lily-of-the-valley details.

Dress Bodice (Cream)

This bodice uses simple shaping and sleeve puffs created with increases. Check fit on the bunny body as you go. The bodice should be close to the body without stretching.

1. Ch 28, join with sl st to form a ring. Be careful not to twist.
2. R1: sc around. [28]
3. R2: (3 sc, inc) around. [35]
4. R3: sc around. [35]
5. R4: (4 sc, inc) around. [42]
6. R5: sc around. [42]

Create armholes by splitting stitches. If your stitch counts differ slightly, keep symmetry. Mark the center front and center back to keep the bodice aligned.

1. R6: sc 10 (back), ch 6 (armhole), skip 6, sc 10 (front), ch 6, skip 6, sc 10. [42 with chains]
2. R7: sc around, working sc into each chain. [42]
3. R8: (6 sc, dec) around. [36]
4. R9: sc around. [36]
5. R10: (4 sc, dec) around. [30]
6. R11: sc around. [30]

Puff Sleeve Caps (Cream) x2

Sleeves in the photo look like soft puffs sitting on the shoulders. These are short caps that wrap around the armhole and are lightly stuffed by their shape, not by filling.

1. Attach cream yarn at the underarm of an armhole.
2. R1: sc evenly around the armhole (about 18 sc). Join with sl st. [18]
3. R2: (sc, inc) around. Join. [27]
4. R3: sc around. Join. [27]
5. R4: (2 sc, dec) around. Join. [18]
6. R5: sc around. Join. [18]
7. Fasten off and weave in.

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Switch to Skirt Color (Sage Green)

The skirt flares with clean horizontal rounds. To imitate the ribbed texture in the photo, work several rounds in blo. This creates gentle ridges without adding bulk.

1. Join sage green yarn at the bottom of the bodice.
2. Skirt R1: (4 sc, inc) around. [36]
3. Skirt R2: sc around. [36]
4. Skirt R3: (5 sc, inc) around. [42]
5. Skirt R4: sc around. [42]
6. Skirt R5: blo sc around. [42]
7. Skirt R6: sc around. [42]
8. Skirt R7: (6 sc, inc) around. [48]
9. Skirt R8: sc around. [48]
10. Skirt R9: blo sc around. [48]
11. Skirt R10: sc around. [48]
12. Skirt R11: (7 sc, inc) around. [54]
13. Skirt R12: sc around. [54]
14. Skirt R13: blo sc around. [54]
15. Skirt R14: sc around. [54]
16. Skirt R15: (8 sc, inc) around. [60]
17. Skirt R16: sc around. [60]
18. Skirt R17: blo sc around. [60]
19. Skirt R18: sc around. [60]

Finish the hem with a subtle edge so it hangs smoothly like the photo. Avoid a ruffle. A simple sc round keeps the skirt clean and slightly structured.

1. Skirt R19: sc around. [60]
2. Skirt R20: (sc in next 2, sl st in next) repeat around for a tiny scallop texture. Keep it loose. [60]
3. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 7: Lily-of-the-Valley Motifs

The photo shows lily-of-the-valley in three places: a vertical spray on the bodice center, two hanging sprays on the skirt sides, and a cluster on the beret. These motifs use tiny bell flowers stitched onto green stems.

Bell Flower (White) Make 18–24

Each bell is a miniature cone with a slight flared rim. Keep tension tight so bells hold shape without stuffing.

1. R1: MR 5 sc. [5]
2. R2: sc around. [5]
3. R3: (sc, inc) around to 7. [7]
4. R4: sc around. [7]
5. R5: (2 sc, inc) around to 9. [9]
6. R6: sc around. [9]
7. R7: flo (sc, inc) around to create a soft rim. [13]
8. R8: sl st around lightly to define the edge. [13]
9. Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing to stems.

Stem Strands (Light Green)

Use simple chain cords so stems stay thin. Make three stems: one for bodice center, one for left skirt, one for right skirt. Make extras for the bird sprig if desired.

• Bodice stem: ch 18, sl st back down the chain to thicken slightly.
• Left skirt stem: ch 22, sl st back down.
• Right skirt stem: ch 20, sl st back down.
• Hat cluster stem: ch 10, sl st back down (optional base).

Assemble Motifs for the Dress

Arrange first, then sew. This keeps placement crisp and matches the photo’s spacing. Bells should hang like tiny droplets, with the opening facing downward.

• Bodice center: sew 6 bells in two vertical columns of 3, with slight staggering.
• Skirt left: sew 3 bells spaced evenly down the left front panel.
• Skirt right: sew 2 bells down the right front panel, slightly higher than the left group.

Stitch the green stems to the fabric first. Then attach bell flowers at the top of each bell so they hang naturally. Use small, hidden stitches and pull just enough to snug them in place without puckering.

Part 8: Beret (Olive Green)

The beret is rounded with a soft, slightly puffy crown and a narrow brim. A tiny loop sits at the top center. On the right side, a bow-like leaf piece supports a dangling lily-of-the-valley cluster.

Beret Crown

1. R1: MR 6 sc. [6]
2. R2: inc around. [12]
3. R3: (sc, inc) around. [18]
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around. [24]
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) around. [30]
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) around. [36]
7. R7: (5 sc, inc) around. [42]
8. R8: (6 sc, inc) around. [48]
9. R9: (7 sc, inc) around. [54]
10. R10: sc around. [54]
11. R11: blo sc around (adds a soft ridge). [54]
12. R12–R14: sc around. [54]

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Shape Down to Brim

This section pulls the beret in to fit the bunny head. Try it on the head after R17. It should sit low on the forehead, just above the eyes, and rest above the ear attachment points.

1. R15: (7 sc, dec) around. [48]
2. R16: sc around. [48]
3. R17: (6 sc, dec) around. [42]
4. R18: sc around. [42]
5. R19: (5 sc, dec) around. [36]
6. R20: sc around. [36]

Beret Brim

1. R21: blo sc around. [36]
2. R22: sc around. [36]
3. R23: (sc, sl st) repeat around for a subtle edge. [36]
4. Fasten off, weave in.

Top Loop

• At the center top, insert hook through a stitch ring and pull up a loop.
• Ch 6, sl st into the same point to form a tiny loop.
• Fasten off and weave the tail inside the beret.

Side Bow/Leaf (Olive Green) Make 1

This piece looks like a small bow but reads as two leaves. It sits on the beret’s right side and supports the flower cluster.

1. Ch 10.
2. In 2nd ch: sc, then hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st, sl st (forming one leaf).
3. Ch 10 again.
4. Repeat the same stitch sequence back for the second leaf.
5. Wrap yarn around the center a few times and tie to pinch into a bow shape.
6. Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing to beret.

Hat Flower Cluster

• Make 4–5 white bell flowers for the hat cluster.
• Make a short green stem: ch 10, sl st back down.
• Sew bells to the stem, closer together than the dress motifs.
• Sew the cluster beneath the bow/leaf so the bells hang over the right ear.

Part 9: Crossbody Bag (Caramel Brown)

The bag is a small pouch with a flat front, a tiny bow detail, and an envelope peeking out with a red heart seal. The strap crosses the chest diagonally, matching the photo’s placement.

Bag Body

1. Ch 13.
2. Round 1: sc in 2nd ch and across (12), 3 sc in last ch, sc down other side (11), 2 sc in first ch. [28]
3. Round 2: sc around. [28]
4. Round 3: blo sc around (creates base edge). [28]
5. Round 4–8: sc around. [28]

Bag Flap

The photo shows an open top with a letter showing. Keep the flap short so the envelope can sit visible.

1. Lay bag flat and find the center back.
2. Attach yarn and work in rows across 12 stitches.
3. Row 1: sc 12, ch 1, turn.
4. Row 2: dec, sc 8, dec (10), ch 1, turn.
5. Row 3: dec, sc 6, dec (8), ch 1, turn.
6. Row 4: dec, sc 4, dec (6). Fasten off.

Bag Strap

• Ch 60–70 (test on the bunny for a crossbody drop to the waist).
• Sl st back down the chain for a sturdier cord.
• Sew strap ends to the bag’s upper sides.

Bag Bow Detail (Light Beige or Cream)

• Ch 18, sl st to form a small band.
• Pinch center and wrap yarn around the middle several times.
• Sew the bow to the bag front, slightly right of center as in the photo.

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Envelope + Heart Seal

This is a small felt-like accent you can crochet. Keep it tiny so it looks like a letter tucked inside the pouch.

1. Envelope (Cream): ch 9.
2. Row 1: sc 8, ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2–3: sc 8, fasten off.
4. Fold top corners inward to form a point and tack with stitches.
5. Heart seal (Red): make a tiny heart with embroidery stitches or a mini appliqué and sew to the envelope point.
6. Tuck envelope into bag opening and stitch at the bottom edge so it stays visible.

Part 10: Shoes (Caramel Brown) Make 2

The shoes are rounded Mary Janes with a strap and a tiny side button. Make them snug so they support standing. Work tightly and shape the toe smoothly like the photo.

Sole (Make 2)

1. Ch 9.
2. Round 1: sc in 2nd ch (8), 3 sc in last ch, sc down other side (7), 2 sc in first ch. [20]
3. Round 2: inc, sc 7, inc x3, sc 7, inc x2. [26]
4. Round 3: sc, inc, sc 7, (sc, inc) x3, sc 7, (sc, inc) x2. [32]

Build Shoe Walls

1. Round 4: blo sc around. [32]
2. Round 5: sc around. [32]
3. Round 6: sc 10, dec x3, sc 13. [29]
4. Round 7: sc 9, dec x3, sc 11. [26]
5. Round 8: sc 8, dec x3, sc 9. [23]
6. Round 9: sc around. [23]

Test-fit on the bunny foot. If it is loose, add one more decrease round near the toe. If it is tight, switch to a slightly larger hook for shoes only.

Mary Jane Opening + Strap

1. Round 10: sc 6, ch 6, skip 6, sc 11. [23]
2. Round 11: sc 6, sc into ch-6 space (6 sc), sc 11. [23]
3. Round 12: (sc, sl st) around for a clean edge. [23]
4. Fasten off, weave in.

Side Button Detail

• Make a tiny button: MR 5 sc, join, fasten off.
• Sew one button on the outer side of each shoe strap area.

Part 11: Bird Friend (White)

The bird is a small dove-like friend with a rounded body, a tucked wing shape, and a raised tail. It holds a green sprig with two white bells, matching the photo’s sweet storytelling detail.

Bird Body

1. R1: MR 6 sc. [6]
2. R2: inc around. [12]
3. R3: (sc, inc) around. [18]
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around. [24]
5. R5–R8: sc around. [24]
6. R9: (2 sc, dec) around. [18]
7. R10: sc around. [18]
8. R11: (sc, dec) around. [12]
9. Stuff firmly, shaping an oval.
10. R12: dec around. [6]
11. Fasten off and close.

Wings (Make 2)

Wings are small teardrops stitched to the sides. Keep them flat so the bird looks smooth and plush.

1. MR 6 sc. [6]
2. R2: (sc, inc) around. [9]
3. R3: sc around. [9]
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around. [12]
5. R5: sc around. [12]
6. Flatten and sc across 6 stitches to close.
7. Fasten off, leave tail for sewing.

Tail (Make 1)

1. Ch 6.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across (5). Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2: dec, sc 1, dec (3). Ch 1, turn.
4. Row 3: sc 3. Fasten off.

Beak + Face

• Beak (Pink): ch 3, in 2nd ch sl st, then sc in next ch. Fasten off.
• Eye: use a tiny black bead or embroider a small black eye stitch.
• Optional blush: add a soft pink tint near the cheek area.

Flower Sprig for Bird

• Stem: ch 12 with light green, sl st back down.
• Add 2 white bell flowers near one end, slightly staggered.
• Stitch sprig to the bird’s beak area so it looks held gently.

Assemble Bird

• Sew wings to each side of the body, centered slightly low.
• Sew tail to the back, angled upward like the photo’s lifted tail.
• Sew beak to the front; add eye slightly above and behind the beak.

Part 12: Assembly of Bunny

Take your time here. Neat placement is what makes the finished piece match the photo. Pin pieces first, step back, and adjust until the silhouette looks balanced and calm.

Attach Ears

• Place ears low on the head sides so they hang beside the cheeks.
• Top of ear attachment should sit around R8–R10 of the head.
• Sew firmly, then add a few hidden stitches inside for strength.

Attach Head to Body

• Center the head on the body neck opening.
• Sew with small whipstitches, tightening evenly as you go.
• Add a bit more stuffing at the neck if the head feels wobbly.

Attach Arms

• Position arms at the sides, slightly forward for a gentle pose.
• Attach at the upper body just below the neck line.
• Sew the top of the arm flatter so it sits smoothly under the dress sleeve caps.

Part 13: Dress Fit + Motif Placement

Slide the dress onto the bunny from the feet up. The bodice should sit smoothly on the torso, and the skirt should start right at the waistline. Adjust the lily-of-the-valley placement so it matches the photo’s vertical lines.

• Bodice flower spray: centered on the chest, beginning near the neckline and ending above the skirt seam.
• Left skirt bells: placed on the left front panel, with the lowest bell near the hem.
• Right skirt bells: placed on the right front panel, slightly shorter than the left group.

If you want the dress to stay perfectly in place, tack it with a few tiny stitches at the shoulders and side waist. Keep stitches minimal so the dress still looks clean and the fabric does not pucker.

Part 14: Beret Styling

Place the beret low on the forehead so the brim sits just above the eyes. Angle it slightly left so the flower cluster hangs over the bunny’s right ear, exactly like the photo’s charming asymmetry.

• Sew the bow/leaf to the beret’s right side near the brim.
• Sew the bell cluster under the leaf so bells dangle in front of the ear.
• If needed, tack the beret to the head with two tiny hidden stitches.

Part 15: Shoes + Bag Placement

Put the shoes on first, then the bag. The shoes should sit flat on the table surface, helping the bunny stand. The bag strap crosses from the bunny’s left shoulder down to the right hip, with the pouch resting at the waist.

• Slide each shoe onto a foot and adjust the opening so it looks like a neat Mary Jane.
• Position the strap diagonally across the chest, matching the photo’s angle.
• Let the pouch sit on the right side of the skirt, with the envelope visible.

Part 16: Final Details That Match the Photo

• Keep the bunny’s expression simple: small nose, short mouth lines, and gently curved brows.
• Make sure inner ears show a clean pink panel with a cream border.
• Ensure the skirt flare is smooth, not ruffled, with subtle ridge texture from blo rounds.
• Let lily-of-the-valley bells hang downward; openings face the ground.
• Place the bird close to the bunny’s right shoe, angled slightly toward her.

Care Notes

• Spot clean with mild soap and cool water.
• Reshape the beret and skirt while damp and let air dry.
• Keep away from high heat, which can distort stitches.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head firmly attached and balanced.
• Ears sewn low and hanging evenly.
• Dress centered with bodice flowers aligned vertically.
• Hat angled with flower cluster on the right side.
• Bag strap adjusted to a natural crossbody drape.
• Bird sprig secured at beak and placed beside the right shoe.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Because this art piece features intricate 3D embroidery, multi-layered clothing, and delicate accessories like the tassels and bow pillow, proper care is essential to preserve its appearance for decades. This bunny is an art doll intended for display rather than active play.

Professional Cleaning: Hand washing is the only recommended method. Fill a clean basin with lukewarm water and add a small amount of a gentle detergent designed specifically for wool or fine fibers. Submerge the bunny slowly, avoiding any aggressive scrubbing. Do not scrub the embroidered carnation or the Shih Tzu motifs, as this can distort the stitches. Let the doll soak for approximately 15 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with cool water.

The Drying Process: Place the bunny between two clean, thick towels and press down gently to remove excess moisture. Never wring or twist the doll, as this will distort the internal fiberfill and ruin the shape of the head and the flared dress. Lay flat on a drying rack in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight, which can fade the delicate pink embroidery colors over time. Once dry, you may need to gently massage the stuffing with your fingers to restore her original plump shape.

Long-term Care: If the bunny is intended for long-term display, keep her in a dust-free environment, such as a glass-fronted cabinet. Avoid placing her in direct sunlight for extended periods. Regularly check the joints of the arms and the attachment of the miniature accessories to ensure the yarn remains secure. By following these maintenance steps, your Pink Carnation & Shih Tzu Bunny will remain a cherished masterpiece for many years to come. Every stitch in the rose-pink cardigan and every embroidered petal on the dress contributes to a narrative of patience and artistic expression.