Crochet Tutorial: Snake in Daisy Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Tutorial: Snake in Daisy Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

This cheerful crochet snake doll has a soft green rounded head, long narrow neck, slim arms, dangling legs, a curled tail, and a sweet garden outfit. She wears a cream bodice with a green daisy skirt, yellow sandals with tiny ladybugs, a flower crown with a small bee, and a strawberry crossbody bag. The scene also includes a matching sun hat and a little picnic basket filled with colorful fruit.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US crochet terms and is designed to create a seated amigurumi snake doll inspired by the photo. The doll has a large rounded snake head, soft bulging cheeks, sleepy embroidered brows, rounded eye patches, black safety eyes, nostril bumps, spiral cheek details, and a forked pink tongue.

The body is made as a tall narrow neck attached to a small torso. The arms and legs are long, slim, and lightly stuffed. The dress is worked separately around the body with a cream bib and a green skirt decorated with white daisies and yellow centers. The sandals, accessories, basket, hat, flowers, bee, and strawberry purse are all made as separate pieces and sewn on.

Finished Size

  • Doll height seated: about 11 inches from top flower crown to sandal soles.
  • Head width: about 4 inches across the cheeks.
  • Leg length: about 4.25 inches each.
  • Tail length: about 5.5 inches, gently curved upward at the tip.
  • Hat diameter: about 4.75 inches.
  • Basket width: about 2.25 inches.

Skill Level

Intermediate. The stitches are basic, but the doll uses many small details. Beginners can make it by working slowly, using stitch markers, and sewing each detail in place before moving to the next section.

Materials

  • Sport weight or light DK cotton yarn in light olive green for head, neck, arms, legs, and tail.
  • Sport weight cotton yarn in cream for bodice, eye whites, hat, and sandal soles.
  • Sport weight cotton yarn in pale green for skirt.
  • Small amounts of white, yellow, pink, lavender, blue, red, black, tan, brown, and dark green yarn.
  • 2.25 mm crochet hook for doll and clothing.
  • 2.00 mm crochet hook for flowers, bee, ladybugs, and tiny details.
  • 8 mm black safety eyes or black beads.
  • Fiberfill stuffing.
  • Tapestry needle.
  • Stitch markers.
  • Embroidery needle for face and dress details.
  • Optional: thin floral wire or pipe cleaner for the tail and basket handle.
  • Optional: small amount of fabric stiffener for hat brim and basket handle.

Abbreviations

  • MR: magic ring
  • ch: chain
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • tr: treble crochet
  • inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
  • dec: invisible single crochet decrease
  • BLO: back loop only
  • FLO: front loop only
  • st: stitch
  • sts: stitches
  • Rnd: round
  • FO: fasten off

Gauge

Using a 2.25 mm hook and sport weight cotton yarn, 8 sc rounds over 48 sts should measure about 2 inches across when worked firmly. Amigurumi fabric must be tight enough that stuffing does not show through.

If your stitches are loose, change to a smaller hook. If your fabric is too stiff to shape the cheeks and rounded head, change to a slightly larger hook but keep the stitches neat and compact.

Important Construction Notes

  • Work the snake doll in continuous spirals unless the pattern says to join.
  • Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of every round.
  • Stuff the head firmly, especially around the cheeks and back of the head.
  • Stuff the neck and limbs lightly so they remain slim and flexible.
  • The doll is designed to sit, so the legs attach low on the front of the body.
  • The tail attaches at the lower back and curves to the doll’s right side.
  • The dress is fitted over the body after the head, neck, arms, legs, and tail are complete.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Main Head

The head is wide, rounded, and slightly flattened at the front. The cheeks are full, the muzzle projects softly, and the crown area stays smooth so the flower crown can sit across the forehead.

Head Base

  1. With light olive green yarn, make a MR. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. Do not join. 6 sts.
  2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
  5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
  6. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
  7. Rnd 7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
  8. Rnd 8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
  9. Rnd 9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
  10. Rnd 10: sc 8, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
  11. Rnd 11: sc 9, inc, repeat around. 66 sts.
  12. Rnd 12: sc 10, inc, repeat around. 72 sts.
  13. Rnds 13-20: sc in each st around. 72 sts for 8 rounds.
  14. Rnd 21: sc 16, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 32, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 16. 76 sts.
  15. Rnd 22: sc in each st around. 76 sts.
  16. Rnd 23: sc 17, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 32, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 17. 80 sts.
  17. Rnds 24-28: sc in each st around. 80 sts for 5 rounds.
  18. Rnd 29: sc 18, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 32, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 18. 76 sts.
  19. Rnd 30: sc 17, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 30, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 17. 72 sts.
  20. Rnd 31: sc 10, dec, repeat around. 66 sts.
  21. Rnd 32: sc 9, dec, repeat around. 60 sts.
  22. Rnd 33: sc 8, dec, repeat around. 54 sts.
  23. Rnd 34: sc 7, dec, repeat around. 48 sts.
  24. Begin stuffing the head firmly. Shape the sides into soft cheek bulges as you stuff.
  25. Rnd 35: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
  26. Rnd 36: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
  27. Rnd 37: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
  28. Rnd 38: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
  29. Rnd 39: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
  30. Rnd 40: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
  31. Add final stuffing. Rnd 41: dec around. 6 sts.
  32. FO, leaving a long tail. Close the remaining hole and weave in the end.

Muzzle Ridge

The image shows a soft horizontal snake snout across the lower front of the face. This ridge makes the head look like a friendly snake instead of a simple round doll head.

  1. With light olive green yarn, ch 13.
  2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
  3. Row 2: inc, sc 10, inc. 14 sts.
  4. Row 3: sc 14. Ch 1, turn.
  5. Row 4: dec, sc 10, dec. 12 sts.
  6. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
  7. Lightly stuff behind the muzzle ridge while sewing it across the lower face, centered between Rnds 22-27 of the head.
  8. Curve the ends slightly upward so the snout follows the rounded cheek line.

Cheek Spirals

  1. Make 2 with light olive green yarn.
  2. Ch 8.
  3. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, work 2 sc in each ch across. 14 sts.
  4. The strip will curl naturally into a small spiral.
  5. FO, leaving a sewing tail.
  6. Sew one spiral on each cheek, placed just behind the muzzle corners at Rnds 25-27.

Nostril Bumps

  1. Make 2 with light olive green yarn and 2.00 mm hook.
  2. Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: sc in each st around. 5 sts.
  4. FO, leaving a tail.
  5. Do not stuff. Sew one nostril bump on each side of the front muzzle, about 5 stitches apart.

Eye Patches and Eyes

The eyes sit close together on white raised patches. The black eyes are shiny and centered slightly low inside the white patches, giving the snake a gentle curious expression.

White Eye Patches

  1. Make 2 with white yarn.
  2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  5. Rnd 4: sc 4, hdc 2, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 8. 18 sts.
  6. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
  7. Flatten each patch slightly into an oval.
  8. Insert one 8 mm black safety eye through each patch between Rnds 2 and 3, slightly toward the inner edge.
  9. Sew the patches close together on the upper face between head Rnds 17-23.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Eye Shine

  • With white embroidery thread, add one tiny straight stitch on the upper outer edge of each black eye.
  • Keep the shine stitches very small so the black eyes remain bold and round.

Eyebrows

  1. Thread dark olive or brown embroidery yarn.
  2. Above each eye, stitch 2 short curved lines using backstitch.
  3. Each brow should span about 5 stitches.
  4. Angle the inner ends slightly downward to match the sleepy expression in the image.

Forked Tongue

The tongue is narrow, soft pink, and hangs from the front of the mouth. It has a split fork at the end and should be sewn under the muzzle center.

  1. With pink yarn and 2.00 mm hook, ch 13.
  2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 5, sc 5, sl st 2. This forms the main tongue strip.
  3. Ch 4 for the first fork. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 3 back to tongue end.
  4. Ch 4 for the second fork. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 3 back to tongue end.
  5. FO, leaving a sewing tail at the base.
  6. Sew the base under the center of the muzzle at Rnd 27.
  7. Let the tongue hang downward with the fork opening slightly to the sides.

Neck

The neck is tall and narrow. It holds the large head above the dress and creates the charming seated posture. Work firmly so the neck can support the head.

  1. With light olive green yarn, make a MR.
  2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  5. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
  6. Rnds 5-28: sc in each st around. 24 sts for 24 rounds.
  7. Stuff lightly but firmly every 6 rounds. Do not overstuff or the neck will become too wide.
  8. Rnd 29: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
  9. Rnd 30: sc in each st around. 18 sts.
  10. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
  11. Sew the top of the neck securely to the bottom center of the head. Use two full passes around the join.

Body

The body is small compared with the head. It sits hidden under the dress, but it must be shaped neatly so the cream bodice and green skirt fit smoothly.

  1. With light olive green yarn, make a MR.
  2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  5. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
  6. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
  7. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
  8. Rnds 7-14: sc in each st around. 36 sts for 8 rounds.
  9. Rnd 15: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
  10. Rnd 16: sc in each st around. 30 sts.
  11. Rnd 17: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
  12. Rnd 18: sc in each st around. 24 sts.
  13. Stuff the body firmly at the lower section and lightly near the top.
  14. Rnd 19: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
  15. FO, leaving a long tail.
  16. Sew the neck to the top opening of the body, keeping the head centered and slightly tilted forward.

Arms

The arms are long, slim, and hang down along the sides of the dress. They are rounded at the ends and lightly stuffed.

  1. Make 2 with light olive green yarn.
  2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts.
  5. Rnds 4-6: sc in each st around. 12 sts.
  6. Rnd 7: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 9 sts.
  7. Rnds 8-32: sc in each st around. 9 sts for 25 rounds.
  8. Stuff the lower hand area lightly. Leave the upper arm almost flat.
  9. Fold the opening flat and sc 4 through both layers to close.
  10. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
  11. Sew the arms to the sides of the upper body at Rnds 17-19, angled downward.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Legs

The legs are long, narrow, and dangle over the table edge in the image. The toes peek out from the sandals, so the foot shape needs a rounded toe end.

Leg and Foot

  1. Make 2 with light olive green yarn.
  2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 15 sts.
  5. Rnd 4: sc in each st around. 15 sts.
  6. Rnd 5: sc 5, hdc 5, sc 5. 15 sts. This creates a gentle toe bulge.
  7. Rnd 6: sc 5, hdc dec, hdc 1, hdc dec, sc 5. 13 sts.
  8. Rnd 7: sc 4, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 2. 11 sts.
  9. Rnds 8-38: sc in each st around. 11 sts for 31 rounds.
  10. Stuff the foot firmly and the leg lightly.
  11. Fold the top flat and sc 5 through both layers to close.
  12. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
  13. Sew the legs to the lower front body, 5 stitches apart, so they hang straight down below the skirt.

Tail

The tail extends from the lower back, curves along the table, and lifts at the tip. It should be slim, flexible, and lightly shaped.

  1. With light olive green yarn, make a MR.
  2. Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1. 7 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: sc 2, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 1. 9 sts.
  5. Rnds 4-15: sc in each st around. 9 sts for 12 rounds.
  6. Rnd 16: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts.
  7. Rnds 17-42: sc in each st around. 12 sts for 26 rounds.
  8. Stuff very lightly. Add optional wire wrapped with stuffing if you want a permanent curve.
  9. Fold opening flat and sc 6 through both layers.
  10. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
  11. Sew to the lower back of the body, slightly to the right side. Curve the tail outward and upward at the tip.

Cream Bodice

The cream bodice is a simple apron-style top. It covers the front torso and connects to the green skirt. The neckline is square and the straps are yellow.

  1. With cream yarn, ch 25.
  2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 24. Ch 1, turn.
  3. Rows 2-7: sc 24. Ch 1, turn after each row.
  4. Row 8: dec, sc 20, dec. 22 sts. Ch 1, turn.
  5. Row 9: dec, sc 18, dec. 20 sts. Ch 1, turn.
  6. Row 10: sc 20. Ch 1, turn.
  7. Row 11: dec, sc 16, dec. 18 sts. Ch 1, turn.
  8. Row 12: sc 18.
  9. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
  10. Place the bodice on the front of the torso with the top edge just below the neck.
  11. Sew the side edges to the body, leaving the bottom edge free for the skirt attachment.

Yellow Bodice Straps

  1. Make 2 with yellow yarn.
  2. Ch 18.
  3. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 17.
  4. FO, leaving tails at both ends.
  5. Sew one strap from the upper bodice corner over the shoulder to the back body.
  6. Repeat for the second strap.

Green Daisy Skirt

The skirt is pale green, slightly flared, and decorated with white daisies. The lower edge has a light blue scalloped trim. It should sit around the waist and cover the top of the legs.

Skirt Base

  1. With pale green yarn, ch 37.
  2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 36. Ch 1, turn.
  3. Row 2: sc 5, inc, repeat across. 42 sts. Ch 1, turn.
  4. Row 3: sc 42. Ch 1, turn.
  5. Row 4: sc 6, inc, repeat across. 48 sts. Ch 1, turn.
  6. Row 5: sc 48. Ch 1, turn.
  7. Row 6: sc 7, inc, repeat across. 54 sts. Ch 1, turn.
  8. Rows 7-12: sc 54. Ch 1, turn after each row.
  9. Row 13: sc 8, inc, repeat across. 60 sts. Ch 1, turn.
  10. Rows 14-18: sc 60. Ch 1, turn after each row.
  11. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
  12. Wrap the skirt around the lower body below the cream bodice. Overlap the back edges by 2 stitches and sew closed.
  13. Sew the top edge to the lower body, keeping the flare smooth and even.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Blue Scalloped Hem

  1. Join light blue yarn to the bottom right edge of the skirt.
  2. Work across the hem: sl st 1, ch 3, sl st in next st, repeat across.
  3. At the end, FO and weave in the tails.
  4. The result should look like tiny pale blue loops along the skirt edge.

Dress Daisy Motifs

Make 9 daisies for the skirt: 3 near the top, 4 across the center, and 2 near the lower edge. Use white petals and yellow centers.

  1. With yellow yarn and 2.00 mm hook, make a MR.
  2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. Sl st to first sc. FO.
  3. Join white yarn to any stitch.
  4. Petal 1: ch 4, starting in 2nd ch from hook sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, sl st into same yellow center stitch.
  5. Repeat Petal 1 in each of the remaining 5 yellow center stitches.
  6. FO, leaving a long white tail for sewing.
  7. Sew daisies onto the green skirt. Keep each flower flat and spaced naturally.

Strawberry Crossbody Bag

The red strawberry bag hangs over the front of the skirt with a green strap crossing from shoulder to opposite hip. It is one of the most important accessories in the image.

Strawberry Body

  1. With red yarn and 2.00 mm hook, make a MR.
  2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts.
  5. Rnd 4: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 15 sts.
  6. Rnd 5: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  7. Rnd 6: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 21 sts.
  8. Rnds 7-9: sc in each st around. 21 sts for 3 rounds.
  9. Rnd 10: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
  10. Rnd 11: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 15 sts.
  11. Stuff lightly.
  12. Rnd 12: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
  13. FO, leaving a sewing tail. Close the top slightly but leave it rounded.

Green Strawberry Leaves

  1. Join green yarn at the top of the strawberry.
  2. Repeat 5 times: ch 4, starting in 2nd ch from hook sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, sl st into next top stitch.
  3. FO and weave in ends.

Strawberry Seeds

  • With white embroidery thread, stitch 7 tiny vertical seed marks on the red strawberry.
  • Place 2 seeds near the top, 3 in the middle, and 2 near the bottom.

Bag Strap

  1. With dark green yarn, ch 54.
  2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 53.
  3. FO, leaving sewing tails.
  4. Sew one end to the top left side of the strawberry and the other to the top right side.
  5. Place the strap over one shoulder and across the bodice, then tack lightly to the dress so it stays in place.

Yellow Sandals

The sandals have cream soles, yellow straps, and tiny red-and-black ladybugs on top. They are sewn around the snake’s feet after the legs are attached.

Sandal Soles

  1. Make 2 with cream yarn.
  2. Ch 10.
  3. Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 8, 3 sc in last ch. Work on opposite side of chain, sc 7, inc in last ch. 20 sts.
  4. Rnd 2: inc, sc 7, inc in next 3 sts, sc 7, inc in next 2 sts. 26 sts.
  5. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, sc 8, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 8, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 32 sts.
  6. FO and weave in ends.
  7. Place each sole under a foot and sew around the edge using cream yarn.

Yellow Front Strap

  1. Make 2 with yellow yarn.
  2. Ch 12.
  3. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 11.
  4. FO, leaving tails.
  5. Sew across the toe area of each sandal from side to side.

Yellow Heel Strap

  1. Make 2 with yellow yarn.
  2. Ch 18.
  3. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 17.
  4. FO, leaving tails.
  5. Sew around the back of each heel and attach to both sides of the sole.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Ladybug Appliques

  1. Make 2 with red yarn and 2.00 mm hook.
  2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. Sl st to first sc.
  3. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
  4. FO, leaving a sewing tail.
  5. With black yarn, stitch a center line down each red circle.
  6. With black yarn, stitch 2 tiny spots on each wing side.
  7. For the head, attach black yarn to one edge, ch 2, sl st in same edge stitch, FO.
  8. Sew one ladybug onto each yellow front sandal strap.

Flower Crown

The flower crown sits across the top front of the head. It includes pink, yellow, white, lavender, and blue flowers with green leaves and a small striped bee perched on the right side.

Green Crown Vine

  1. With dark green yarn, ch 36.
  2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 35.
  3. FO, leaving sewing tails.
  4. Pin the vine across the top of the head from left temple to right temple.
  5. Sew the vine down with small hidden stitches.

Small Five-Petal Flowers

Make 7 flowers total: 2 pink, 1 yellow, 1 white, 2 lavender, and 1 blue. Use the same structure for each flower.

  1. With chosen flower color, make a MR.
  2. Into the MR work: ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, sl st. This makes one petal.
  3. Repeat the petal sequence 4 more times for 5 petals total.
  4. Pull the MR closed tightly.
  5. FO, leaving a long tail.
  6. With yellow yarn, make one French knot or one tiny straight stitch in the center.
  7. Sew flowers along the green vine, overlapping slightly so the crown looks full.

Leaves for Crown

  1. Make 8 with dark green yarn.
  2. Ch 5.
  3. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, sl st 1.
  4. FO, leaving a tail.
  5. Sew leaves between flowers, letting some tips peek upward.

Tiny Bee

  1. With yellow yarn, make a MR.
  2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: sc in each st around. 6 sts.
  4. Change to black yarn. Rnd 3: sc in each st around. 6 sts.
  5. Change to yellow yarn. Rnd 4: sc in each st around. 6 sts.
  6. Change to black yarn. Rnd 5: sc in each st around. 6 sts.
  7. FO, leaving a sewing tail. Do not stuff.
  8. For wings, join pale blue yarn to the top side. Ch 4, sl st back to the bee body. Ch 4, sl st back to the bee body.
  9. Sew the bee onto the right side of the flower crown.

Sun Hat

The hat sits beside the doll in the image. It has a rounded cream crown, wide flat brim, yellow band, and three small flowers with green leaves on the side.

Hat Crown

  1. With cream yarn, make a MR.
  2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  5. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
  6. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
  7. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
  8. Rnd 7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
  9. Rnd 8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
  10. Rnds 9-17: sc in each st around. 48 sts for 9 rounds.
  11. Rnd 18: BLO sc in each st around. 48 sts.

Hat Brim

  1. Rnd 19: FLO sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
  2. Rnd 20: sc 8, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
  3. Rnd 21: sc 9, inc, repeat around. 66 sts.
  4. Rnd 22: sc 10, inc, repeat around. 72 sts.
  5. Rnd 23: sc 11, inc, repeat around. 78 sts.
  6. Rnd 24: sc 12, inc, repeat around. 84 sts.
  7. Rnd 25: sc in each st around. 84 sts.
  8. Rnd 26: sl st in each st around for a neat firm edge.
  9. FO and weave in ends.

Hat Band

  1. With yellow yarn, ch 52.
  2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 51.
  3. FO, leaving a tail.
  4. Wrap around the base of the crown and sew the ends together.

Hat Flowers and Leaves

  • Make one yellow flower, one pink flower, and one darker pink flower using the same five-petal flower method from the flower crown.
  • Make 4 small leaves using the crown leaf method.
  • Sew the leaves first on one side of the hat band, then sew the flowers on top.

Picnic Basket

The small basket is tan-brown with a rounded base, upright sides, a curved handle, and a red gingham cloth peeking over the edge. It is filled with small crocheted fruit shapes.

Basket Base and Sides

  1. With tan yarn, ch 9.
  2. Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch. Work on opposite side, sc 6, inc in last ch. 18 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. 24 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, sc 6, repeat sc 1, inc 3 times around curved end, sc 6, repeat sc 1, inc 2 times. 30 sts.
  5. Rnd 4: BLO sc in each st around. 30 sts.
  6. Rnds 5-10: sc in each st around. 30 sts for 6 rounds.
  7. Rnd 11: sl st in each st around for a firm rim.
  8. FO and weave in ends.

Basket Handle

  1. With tan yarn, ch 28.
  2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 27.
  3. Ch 1, turn. Row 2: sc 27.
  4. FO, leaving long tails.
  5. Sew each end to opposite sides of the basket rim.
  6. Optional: stitch the handle around a thin wire if you want it to stand upright.

Gingham Cloth

The image shows a red and white checkered cloth folded inside the basket. This crochet version uses a red base with white surface stitches.

  1. With red yarn, ch 15.
  2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 14. Ch 1, turn.
  3. Rows 2-8: sc 14. Ch 1, turn after each row.
  4. FO and weave in ends.
  5. With white yarn, surface stitch 3 vertical lines evenly across the cloth.
  6. Surface stitch 3 horizontal lines evenly across the cloth to create a checkered look.
  7. Fold the cloth loosely and tack it inside the basket so corners drape over the rim.

Basket Fruit

  1. Green apple: With green yarn, 6 sc in MR, inc around to 12, sc one round, dec around to close. Add a tiny brown stem with ch 3.
  2. Yellow lemon: With yellow yarn, 5 sc in MR, inc around to 10, sc two rounds, dec around to close. Shape into an oval while stuffing.
  3. Red berry: With red yarn, 6 sc in MR, sc one round, dec around. Add one green stitch on top.
  4. Brown bread roll: With light brown yarn, ch 7, sc 6, turn, sc 6 for 3 rows. Sew edges into a soft roll shape.

Face Embroidery Details

These small stitches give the snake its exact personality. Work slowly and check placement from the front after every stitch.

  • Use dark olive yarn to embroider a soft curved smile line under the left side of the muzzle.
  • Use pale pink yarn to add one short cheek dash on the right side of the face.
  • Use light olive yarn to tighten the inner eye area by making one hidden stitch between the white patches.
  • Use dark olive yarn to add two tiny wrinkle stitches above each eye.

Assembly Order

  1. Finish the head, muzzle, eye patches, cheek spirals, nostril bumps, tongue, and eyebrow embroidery.
  2. Sew the neck to the head and the body to the neck.
  3. Sew arms, legs, and tail onto the body before dressing the doll.
  4. Wrap and sew the cream bodice to the upper body.
  5. Wrap and sew the green skirt below the bodice.
  6. Add blue scalloped trim along the hem.
  7. Sew the daisies onto the skirt.
  8. Attach the strawberry bag and green crossbody strap.
  9. Sew sandal soles to the feet, then add yellow straps and ladybugs.
  10. Sew the flower crown, leaves, and bee across the top of the head.
  11. Make the hat and basket as separate props.

Detailed Sewing Placement

The head should sit slightly forward on the neck, not perfectly vertical. This forward tilt creates the gentle garden character seen in the image. Sew through the neck edge and the bottom of the head at least twice, then pull the yarn firmly before knotting.

The arms should begin just below the cream bodice straps. Position them on the sides of the body so the hands hang to about the lower skirt edge. The arms should not point forward. They should rest naturally against the sides.

The legs attach to the lower front body, under the skirt. Place them close enough that they hang straight down, but leave a small gap between them. The sandals should face forward and sit flat when the doll is placed on a table edge.

The tail attaches behind the skirt, slightly to the right. Sew it strongly because it is long. Bend the tail so it rests on the surface and then curves upward near the tip.

Optional Wire Support

If this doll is only for display, you may place covered wire inside the tail and neck. Always wrap wire ends with tape and stuffing first. Do not use wire if the doll is intended for a young child.

For the tail, insert wire after Rnd 20 and continue crocheting around it carefully. For the neck, insert wire only after the head and body are finished, sliding it gently through the stuffed center.

Tips for a Smooth Amigurumi Finish

  • Use invisible decreases on all shaped pieces.
  • Keep stuffing in small pieces to avoid lumps.
  • Do not overstuff arms, legs, and tail.
  • Pin every accessory before sewing.
  • Use matching thread for invisible joins.
  • Use a smaller hook for the tiny flowers and bee.
  • Block the hat brim lightly if it curls too much.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all pieces are sewn, hold the doll at eye level and check the face. The white eye patches should touch or nearly touch. The eyebrows should look relaxed, and the tongue should hang from the center of the muzzle.

Add final small stitches only after the accessories are attached. The flower crown can change the expression, so embroider the last eyebrow lines and cheek dash after the crown is in place.

  • Secure the flower crown with hidden stitches behind at least 4 flowers.
  • Tack the strawberry bag strap at the shoulder and hip.
  • Check that the sandals are even before adding ladybugs.
  • Shape the tail curve by hand.
  • Trim all yarn tails and hide them inside the doll.

Care Notes

This crochet snake doll is best used as a decorative handmade item. Because it has small flowers, a bee, ladybugs, and fruit pieces, supervise use around children. Replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes if making the doll for a child under 3 years old.

  • Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
  • Do not machine wash if wire, beads, or stiffened pieces are used.
  • Let the doll air dry fully before storing.
  • Keep away from direct sunlight to protect the green and red yarn colors.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head is firmly stuffed and round with full cheeks.
  • Muzzle ridge sits centered under the eyes.
  • Eye patches are close together with black eyes facing forward.
  • Tongue is pink, forked, and hanging from the center.
  • Dress has cream bodice, yellow straps, green skirt, white daisies, and blue hem loops.
  • Strawberry bag has green leaves, white seeds, and a crossbody strap.
  • Sandals have cream soles, yellow straps, and red ladybugs.
  • Flower crown includes colorful flowers, green leaves, and a tiny bee.
  • Hat and basket are finished as matching photo props.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, dust the doll gently with a soft dry brush. For small stains, dab the area with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid rubbing the embroidered face, skirt daisies, bee, and ladybugs.

Store the doll upright or seated with tissue paper supporting the head and tail. Keep the hat and basket beside the doll rather than pressed under heavier items. This helps the brim, basket handle, flower crown, and strawberry bag keep their handmade shape.

If the skirt hem curls after storage, dampen only the hem with a tiny amount of water, reshape the scallops with your fingers, and let it dry flat. Do not iron acrylic yarn. For cotton yarn, use steam carefully without pressing the hook texture flat.

Related Posts

Crochet Tutorial: Cute Spring Chick – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Tutorial: Cute Spring Chick – Free Crochet Pattern

May 10, 2026
Crochet Tutorial: Bugs Bunny – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Tutorial: Bugs Bunny – Free Crochet Pattern

May 10, 2026
Crochet Tutorial: Cute Garden Frog – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Tutorial: Cute Garden Frog – Free Crochet Pattern

May 10, 2026

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *