Knitting Tutorial: Gardening Cat – Free Knitting Pattern

This cheerful Gardening Cat is a detailed knitted toy with a warm orange tabby head, large pointed ears, bright yellow-green eyes, soft cream muzzle, garden-green cardigan, blue overalls, brown shoes, red crossbody bag, tiny flowers, bee buttons, a sunhat, shovel, and miniature watering can. The finished doll is designed as a standing garden companion with many small decorative details worked separately and sewn on carefully.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

• Finished height: about 11 inches from shoes to ear tips when worked at the listed gauge.
• Head width: about 4 inches across the cheeks.
• Body height: about 5 inches from neck to shoes.
• Sunhat diameter: about 5 inches across the brim.
• Watering can: about 2 inches tall.
• Shovel: about 3 inches long.

Skill Level

This pattern is best for an adventurous beginner to intermediate knitter. The main shapes use simple increases, decreases, stockinette stitch, garter stitch, mattress stitch, embroidery, and small knitted appliques. The tiny flowers, bag, bee buttons, ladybug, and garden tools require patience more than difficulty.

Materials

• Yarn weight: DK or light worsted yarn for the doll and clothing.
• Main cat color: warm orange-brown, about 60 yards.
• Cream: for muzzle, chin, neck, paw details, and shoe edging, about 25 yards.
• Dark brown: for tabby stripes, ear edging, shoes, shovel handle, and nose detail, about 25 yards.
• Pink: for inner ears, about 10 yards.
• Olive green: for cardigan, leaves, and watering can leaf accent, about 45 yards.
• Blue denim yarn: for overalls, about 45 yards.
• Red yarn: for crossbody bag and strap, about 25 yards.
• Yellow and white yarn: for sunhat stripes, flowers, bees, and daisies, about 25 yards total.
• Gray yarn: for watering can and shovel blade, about 20 yards.
• Black yarn or embroidery floss: for pupils, whisker roots, mouth, bee stripes, and ladybug dots.
• White embroidery thread: for whiskers and shoe claw stitches.
• Safety eyes: two 14 mm yellow cat eyes, or use knitted eye discs as described.
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill.
• Needles: US 3 or 3.25 mm double-pointed needles, or size needed for tight toy fabric.
• Extra needle: US 2 or 2.75 mm for tiny flowers and accessories.
• Tapestry needle: for seams and embroidery.
• Stitch markers: at least 4.
• Optional: pipe cleaners for watering can handle, shovel handle, and cat tail support.

Gauge

Gauge: 7 stitches and 10 rounds equal 1 inch in stockinette stitch using DK yarn and US 3 needles. The fabric should be firm so stuffing does not show. If your stitches look loose, go down one needle size.

The toy depends on firm shaping. A tighter gauge gives the head its round plush shape, keeps the overalls neat, and helps the pointed ears stand upright. Do not worry if your exact gauge is slightly different, but keep all yarns close in weight.

Abbreviations

• BO: bind off.
• CO: cast on.
• dec: decrease.
• inc: increase.
• k: knit.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• kfb: knit into the front and back of the same stitch.
• p: purl.
• pm: place marker.
• rem: remaining.
• rnd: round.
• RS: right side.
• ssk: slip, slip, knit.
• st or sts: stitch or stitches.
• WS: wrong side.

Construction Notes

The cat is knitted in separate pieces and sewn together. The body and legs form the base. The head is a rounded tabby shape with pointed ears sewn at the upper sides. The clothing is worked separately so the green cardigan opens at the front over the blue overalls, matching the picture.

The accessories are small but important. The wide yellow and white sunhat sits beside the cat, the red bag crosses from shoulder to hip, the gray watering can rests on one side, and the shovel sits on the other. These pieces complete the gardening theme.

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Main Body and Legs

Right Leg

1. Using blue yarn, CO 18 sts and divide evenly over 3 double-pointed needles. Join in the round without twisting.
2. Rnds 1-4: k all sts.
3. Rnd 5: k8, kfb, k9, kfb. 20 sts.
4. Rnds 6-13: k all sts.
5. Rnd 14: k1, p1 rib around to create the rolled cuff line.
6. Rnd 15: k all sts.
7. Cut yarn, leaving an 8 inch tail. Place sts on a holder.

Left Leg

1. Work exactly as for the right leg, but do not cut yarn after Rnd 15.
2. Join the legs: knit 20 sts from left leg, CO 4 sts for the center crotch, knit 20 sts from right leg, CO 4 sts for the back crotch. 48 sts.
3. Place marker for the beginning of the round at the center back.

Overall Lower Body

1. Rnds 1-8: k all 48 sts in blue.
2. Rnd 9: k10, k2tog, k24, ssk, k10. 46 sts.
3. Rnds 10-14: k all sts.
4. Rnd 15: k9, k2tog, k24, ssk, k9. 44 sts.
5. Rnds 16-20: k all sts.
6. Rnd 21: k8, k2tog, k24, ssk, k8. 42 sts.
7. Rnds 22-24: k all sts.

Stuff both legs firmly before the body narrows too much. Shape each leg so the blue fabric looks like soft gathered pant legs. The legs should be short, rounded, and slightly wider near the lower cuff, like the image.

Cream Neck and Upper Chest

1. Change to cream yarn.
2. Rnd 25: k all 42 sts.
3. Rnd 26: k5, k2tog around. 36 sts.
4. Rnds 27-31: k all sts.
5. Rnd 32: k4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
6. Rnds 33-35: k all sts.
7. Stuff the body firmly, keeping the torso upright and oval.
8. Rnd 36: k3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
9. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the neck.

Blue Overall Bib

The bib sits over the cream chest and shows between the two open cardigan fronts. It should be narrow at the top and slightly wider at the lower edge.

1. Using blue yarn, CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: k all sts for a garter lower edge.
3. Row 5: k2, p12, k2.
4. Row 6: k all sts.
5. Rows 7-16: repeat Rows 5 and 6.
6. Row 17: k2, ssk, k8, k2tog, k2. 14 sts.
7. Row 18: k all sts.
8. Row 19: k2, ssk, k6, k2tog, k2. 12 sts.
9. Rows 20-22: k all sts.
10. BO all sts.

Sew the bib centered on the front cream chest, letting the bottom overlap the top of the blue pants by about 2 rows. Keep the top edge just below the neck.

Overall Straps

1. Using blue yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Work in garter stitch for 3 inches.
3. BO all sts.
4. Make a second strap the same way.
5. Sew each strap from the top of the bib over the shoulder area to the back of the body.

Head

The head is round and slightly wider at the cheeks, with a smooth orange forehead and cream muzzle pads. The tabby stripes are embroidered after knitting. Work the head tightly and stuff very firmly so the face holds its shape.

1. Using orange-brown yarn, CO 8 sts and divide over 3 needles.
2. Rnd 1: kfb in every st. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 2: k all sts.
4. Rnd 3: k1, kfb around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 4: k all sts.
6. Rnd 5: k2, kfb around. 32 sts.
7. Rnd 6: k all sts.
8. Rnd 7: k3, kfb around. 40 sts.
9. Rnd 8: k all sts.
10. Rnd 9: k4, kfb around. 48 sts.
11. Rnd 10: k all sts.
12. Rnd 11: k5, kfb around. 56 sts.
13. Rnds 12-20: k all sts.
14. Rnd 21: k13, kfb, k28, kfb, k13. 58 sts.
15. Rnds 22-25: k all sts.
16. Rnd 26: k13, k2tog, k28, ssk, k13. 56 sts.
17. Rnd 27: k5, k2tog around. 48 sts.
18. Rnd 28: k4, k2tog around. 40 sts.

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Pause here to place the eyes. Position the eyes between Rnds 18 and 19, about 10 stitches apart. The face should look wide and gentle, with the eyes large and slightly low on the head. If using safety eyes, secure the backs now.

1. Rnd 29: k3, k2tog around. 32 sts.
2. Stuff the head firmly, adding extra stuffing into the cheek areas.
3. Rnd 30: k2, k2tog around. 24 sts.
4. Rnd 31: k1, k2tog around. 16 sts.
5. Rnd 32: k2tog around. 8 sts.
6. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and weave in.

Knitted Eye Discs Option

If you do not use safety eyes, make layered knitted eyes. The image has round yellow-green eyes with dark pupils and light highlights, so keep the discs bold and shiny-looking.

1. Using yellow yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: kfb in each st. 16 sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: k2tog across. 8 sts.
5. Cut yarn, gather into a circle, and sew the edges flat.
6. Using black yarn, embroider a round pupil in the center.
7. Using white thread, add one small highlight at the upper left of each eye.

Cream Muzzle Pads

Left Muzzle Pad

1. Using cream yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
7. Rows 6-8: work in stockinette stitch.
8. Row 9: ssk, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
9. Row 10: p all sts.
10. Row 11: ssk, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
11. BO all sts.

Right Muzzle Pad

Make a second muzzle pad exactly the same. Lightly stuff each pad before sewing. Sew both pads side by side below the eyes, touching at the center. The pads should create the rounded cream cheeks seen in the photo.

Chin Patch

1. Using cream yarn, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-2: k all sts.
3. Rows 3-6: work in stockinette stitch.
4. Row 7: ssk, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
5. Row 8: p all sts.
6. Row 9: ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
7. BO all sts.

Sew the chin patch directly under the muzzle pads. The lower point should sit near the base of the head where it meets the neck.

Nose, Mouth, and Whiskers

• Nose: With dark brown yarn, embroider a small triangle centered between the two muzzle pads. Cover about 4 stitches wide and 3 rows tall.
• Mouth line: With black or dark brown floss, stitch a short vertical line down from the nose for 3 rows.
• Smile curve: Add two small curved stitches, one to each side of the vertical line.
• Whisker roots: Add three tiny black dots on each muzzle pad.
• Whiskers: Using white embroidery thread, stitch three long whiskers from each side. Each whisker should extend about 1 1/2 inches beyond the cheek.

Pointed Ears

Outer Ear

1. Using orange-brown yarn, CO 18 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: ssk, k14, k2tog. 16 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: ssk, k12, k2tog. 14 sts.
7. Row 6: p all sts.
8. Row 7: ssk, k10, k2tog. 12 sts.
9. Row 8: p all sts.
10. Row 9: ssk, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
11. Row 10: p all sts.
12. Row 11: ssk, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
13. Row 12: p all sts.
14. Row 13: ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
15. Row 14: p all sts.
16. Row 15: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
17. Row 16: p all sts.
18. Row 17: ssk, k2tog. 2 sts.
19. Row 18: k2tog. 1 st.
20. Cut yarn and pull through.

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Inner Ear

1. Using pink yarn, CO 14 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: ssk, k10, k2tog. 12 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: ssk, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
7. Row 6: p all sts.
8. Row 7: ssk, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
9. Row 8: p all sts.
10. Row 9: ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
11. Row 10: p all sts.
12. Row 11: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
13. Row 12: p all sts.
14. Row 13: ssk, k2tog. 2 sts.
15. Row 14: k2tog. 1 st.
16. Cut yarn and pull through.

Make two outer ears and two inner ears. Sew each pink inner ear to one orange outer ear, leaving an even orange border around the pink. With dark brown yarn, crochet-like blanket stitch or overcast stitch around the edge for the darker outline visible in the image.

Sew the ears to the top sides of the head. The base of each ear should cover about 12 stitches. Angle the ears outward slightly, with the tips pointing up and away from the center.

Tabby Forehead and Cheek Stripes

The tabby markings define the cat. Use dark brown yarn and a tapestry needle. Keep the stitches flat so the head still looks knitted, not bulky.

• Embroider one vertical stripe down the center forehead, starting between the ears and ending about 3 rows above the eyes.
• Add two shorter stripes on each side of the center stripe, each about 6 rows long.
• Add two small angled cheek stripes on the left side, beginning near the outer eye and slanting toward the muzzle.
• Add two matching angled cheek stripes on the right side.
• Use tiny duplicate-stitch lines rather than long loose strands.

Arms

Right Arm

1. Using orange-brown yarn, CO 12 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-4: k all sts.
3. Change to olive green yarn.
4. Rnd 5: k all sts.
5. Rnd 6: k5, kfb, k6. 13 sts.
6. Rnds 7-20: k all sts.
7. Rnd 21: k5, k2tog, k6. 12 sts.
8. Stuff lightly, keeping the arm soft and narrow.
9. Rnd 22: k2tog around. 6 sts.
10. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull closed.

Left Arm

Make the left arm the same way. Sew both arms to the upper body under the cardigan shoulders. Angle them downward slightly so the hands rest near the sides of the overalls.

Olive Garden Cardigan

The cardigan is open at the front with white edging. It has short rounded fronts, long sleeves, and tiny embroidered flowers on both lower front panels. The body is knitted flat and sewn around the doll.

Cardigan Back

1. Using olive green yarn, CO 34 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: k all sts for garter hem.
3. Row 5: k3, p28, k3.
4. Row 6: k all sts.
5. Rows 7-28: repeat Rows 5 and 6.
6. Row 29: BO 3 sts, k28, BO 3 sts. 28 center sts remain.
7. Row 30: p all sts.
8. Rows 31-38: work in stockinette stitch.
9. Row 39: k8, BO 12 sts, k8.
10. Place each shoulder set of 8 sts on holders.

Left Front

1. Using olive green yarn, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: k all sts.
3. Row 5: k3, p15.
4. Row 6: k all sts.
5. Rows 7-24: repeat Rows 5 and 6.
6. Row 25: at armhole edge, BO 3 sts, work to end. 15 sts.
7. Rows 26-32: work in stockinette, keeping 3 front-edge sts in garter.
8. Row 33: at neck edge, BO 4 sts, work to end. 11 sts.
9. Row 35: at neck edge, BO 2 sts, work to end. 9 sts.
10. Row 37: at neck edge, BO 1 st, work to end. 8 sts.
11. Work even until front matches back shoulder length.
12. Join shoulder to back shoulder using three-needle bind off or sew neatly.

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Right Front

Work as mirror image of the left front. Keep the garter front edge on the opening side. Join the shoulder to the remaining back shoulder.

Cardigan Sleeves

1. Using olive green yarn, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: k all sts.
3. Row 5: k all sts.
4. Row 6: p all sts.
5. Row 7: k1, kfb, k14, kfb, k1. 20 sts.
6. Rows 8-18: work in stockinette stitch.
7. Row 19: k1, kfb, k16, kfb, k1. 22 sts.
8. Rows 20-30: work in stockinette stitch.
9. BO all sts.

Make two sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams first, then sew each sleeve into the cardigan armhole. Slip the cardigan onto the body and secure it with small hidden stitches at the shoulders, back neck, and side waist.

White Cardigan Edging

1. Using cream or white yarn, pick up and knit 18 sts along the right front edge, 12 sts around the back neck, and 18 sts along the left front edge. 48 sts total.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: k all sts.
4. BO all sts loosely.

For the sleeve cuffs, use white yarn and embroider a small chain line or pick up 18 sts around each cuff, knit 2 rounds, and bind off. The white trim should be visible at the wrist and along the open front.

Embroidered Cardigan Flowers

The cardigan has small pink blossoms with green stems on both lower fronts. Keep the embroidery delicate so it looks like a tiny garden stitched into the sweater.

• On each front panel, stitch two green stems about 5 rows tall.
• Add two small leaves to each stem using straight stitches.
• For each flower, make five pink lazy-daisy stitches around one center point.
• Add a tiny cream or yellow center knot to each flower.
• Place three blossom clusters on the right front and three on the left front.

Shoes and Paws

Shoe Base

1. Using dark brown yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
7. Rows 6-12: work in stockinette stitch.
8. Row 13: ssk, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
9. Row 14: p all sts.
10. Row 15: ssk, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
11. BO all sts.

Make two shoe bases. Fold each piece slightly lengthwise, seam the back, and stuff lightly. Sew one shoe to the bottom of each leg, with the rounded toe facing forward.

Cream Sole Trim

1. Using cream yarn, CO 22 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. BO all sts.

Make two. Sew one cream strip around the front lower edge of each shoe to imitate the pale sole border shown in the image.

Toe Stitches

• Using white thread, embroider three short vertical claw stitches on the front of each shoe.
• Using orange-brown yarn, add a small curved paw color patch at the toe if desired.
• Keep the stitches symmetrical so both shoes look balanced.

Tiny Bee Shoe Buttons

Each shoe has a tiny bee decoration near the top. These are made with small embroidered discs.

1. Using yellow yarn, CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1: kfb in each st. 12 sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Cut yarn, gather into a tiny circle, and sew flat.
5. With black floss, stitch two narrow stripes across the yellow circle.
6. With white thread, add two tiny wing stitches above the circle.
7. Make two bees and sew one to each shoe.

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Red Crossbody Bag

Bag Body

1. Using red yarn, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: k all sts.
3. Rows 5-20: work in stockinette stitch.
4. Rows 21-24: k all sts.
5. BO all sts.

Fold the lower edge up so the body of the bag measures about 1 1/4 inches tall. Sew both side seams. Leave the top flap loose so it folds over the front.

Bag Flap Shape

1. With red yarn, CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: work in stockinette stitch.
3. Row 5: ssk, k12, k2tog. 14 sts.
4. Row 6: p all sts.
5. Row 7: ssk, k10, k2tog. 12 sts.
6. BO all sts.

Sew the flap to the back top of the bag and fold it toward the front. Add one white daisy to the lower right side of the flap.

Bag Strap

1. Using red yarn, CO 4 sts.
2. Work in garter stitch until the strap measures 10 inches.
3. BO all sts.
4. Sew one strap end to each side of the bag.

Place the strap from the cat’s left shoulder across the chest to the right hip, matching the diagonal line in the picture. Secure with a few hidden stitches at the shoulder and hip.

White Daisy on Bag

1. Using white yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Cut yarn and pull through all sts to form one petal.
5. Make 6 petals.
6. Sew petals in a circle on the red flap.
7. Add a yellow French knot or tiny stitched circle in the center.

Head Flowers and Ladybug

Yellow Flower

1. Using yellow yarn and smaller needles, CO 5 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Cut yarn and pull through all sts.
5. Make 6 petals.
6. Sew the petals into a circle and add a darker yellow center.

Pale Yellow Flower

Repeat the yellow flower instructions using pale yellow yarn. Sew both flowers near the top left side of the cat’s forehead, just below the ear. Overlap them slightly for the layered garden-crown effect.

Red Ladybug

1. Using red yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-3: work in stockinette stitch.
3. Row 4: k2tog across. 4 sts.
4. Cut yarn, gather into a small dome, and stuff with a pinch of fiberfill.
5. With black floss, embroider a center line and three dots on each side.
6. Add a tiny black head with two stitches at one end.
7. Sew the ladybug on the upper right forehead, close to the right ear.

Sunhat

The sunhat is a separate prop placed beside the cat. It has yellow and white circular stripes, a flat brim, rounded crown, and a small berry-and-leaf decoration on the brim.

Hat Crown

1. Using white yarn, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: kfb in each st. 16 sts.
3. Change to yellow yarn.
4. Rnd 2: k all sts.
5. Rnd 3: k1, kfb around. 24 sts.
6. Change to white yarn.
7. Rnd 4: k all sts.
8. Rnd 5: k2, kfb around. 32 sts.
9. Change to yellow yarn.
10. Rnd 6: k all sts.
11. Rnd 7: k3, kfb around. 40 sts.
12. Change to white yarn.
13. Rnd 8: k all sts.
14. Rnds 9-14: continue alternating 2 rounds yellow and 2 rounds white while knitting even on 40 sts.
15. Rnd 15: k all sts in yellow.

Hat Brim

1. Rnd 16: using yellow yarn, k1, kfb around. 60 sts.
2. Rnd 17: k all sts.
3. Rnd 18: k2, kfb around. 80 sts.
4. Rnd 19: k all sts.
5. Rnd 20: change to white, k all sts.
6. Rnd 21: change to yellow, k all sts.
7. Rnd 22: k all sts.
8. BO loosely.

Flatten the brim gently with steam held above the fabric, not pressed into it. Shape the crown into a soft dome. The brim should ripple slightly like the garden hat in the image.

Hat Berries and Leaves

1. For each berry, using berry purple or red yarn, CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1: kfb in each st. 12 sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: k2tog across. 6 sts.
5. Gather into a ball and stuff with a tiny pinch of fiberfill.
6. Make three berries.
7. For each leaf, using green yarn, CO 8 sts.
8. Row 1: k1, p6, k1.
9. Row 2: k all sts.
10. Row 3: ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
11. Row 4: k all sts.
12. Row 5: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
13. Row 6: ssk, k2tog. 2 sts.
14. Row 7: k2tog. 1 st.
15. Make two leaves and sew them with the berries to one side of the brim.

Mini Watering Can

The watering can is gray with a rounded body, side handle, short spout, and a small green leaf accent. It is knitted tightly and lightly stuffed.

Watering Can Body

1. Using gray yarn, CO 18 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-4: k all sts.
3. Rnd 5: k2, kfb around. 24 sts.
4. Rnds 6-13: k all sts.
5. Rnd 14: k2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
6. Rnd 15: k1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
7. Stuff lightly.
8. Rnd 16: k2tog around. 6 sts.
9. Cut yarn and gather closed.

Watering Can Top Rim

1. Using gray yarn, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1-3: k all sts.
3. BO all sts.
4. Sew the strip into a small ring and attach to the top of the body as the open rim.

Spout

1. Using gray yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-8: work in stockinette stitch.
3. BO all sts.
4. Roll the piece into a small tube and seam it closed.
5. Sew one end to the front side of the watering can, angled upward.

Handle

1. Using gray yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Work in garter stitch for 3 inches.
3. BO all sts.
4. Curve the strip into a handle and sew both ends to the side of the can.

Green Leaf Accent

Make one small leaf using the same leaf pattern from the sunhat section. Sew it near the handle so it looks like the green accent shown beside the can.

Mini Shovel

Shovel Blade

1. Using light gray yarn, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-2: k all sts.
3. Row 3: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
4. Rows 4-8: work in stockinette stitch.
5. Row 9: ssk, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
6. Row 10: p all sts.
7. Row 11: ssk, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
8. Row 12: p all sts.
9. Row 13: ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
10. BO all sts.

Shovel Handle

1. Using dark brown yarn, CO 6 sts.
2. Work in stockinette stitch for 2 1/2 inches.
3. BO all sts.
4. Roll into a narrow tube and sew the long seam.
5. Sew one end of the handle to the top of the gray blade.

Handle Leaves

Make two small green leaves using the leaf instructions from the sunhat section. Sew them beside the handle near the blade so the shovel looks like it is resting in the garden.

Tail

The tail is mostly hidden behind the cardigan, but a soft curved tail helps the cat balance if you want it visible from the back.

1. Using orange-brown yarn, CO 12 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-20: k all sts.
3. Embroider dark brown tabby rings every 4 rounds.
4. Stuff lightly, or insert a folded pipe cleaner wrapped in stuffing.
5. Rnd 21: k2tog around. 6 sts.
6. Cut yarn and gather closed.
7. Sew the tail to the lower back before placing the cardigan permanently.

Joining the Head to the Body

1. Place the head on the cream neck, checking that the eyes face forward and the ears sit evenly.
2. Use the long cream neck tail or matching orange yarn to sew around the neck opening.
3. Stitch twice around for strength.
4. Add a little extra stuffing into the neck before closing the final gap.
5. Keep the head upright, not tilted too far forward.

Detailed Clothing Placement

The overalls should be visible through the open cardigan. The cardigan fronts should not meet at the center. Leave a narrow vertical gap so the cream neck and blue bib show clearly, just as in the image.

• Sew the cardigan back to the body with tiny hidden stitches at the shoulders.
• Tack the lower front corners at the waist so they curve outward slightly.
• Keep the white trim visible along both front edges.
• Let the red bag strap sit on top of the cardigan, not underneath it.
• Place the bag at the cat’s right hip, slightly below the cardigan hem.

Optional Duplicate-Stitch Texture

The photographed toy has visible knitted texture. To enhance that look, work small duplicate stitches rather than thick embroidery where possible. This keeps the surface soft and consistent.

• Add orange duplicate stitches over the forehead if the center looks uneven.
• Add dark brown duplicate-stitch stripes along the head.
• Add light blue duplicate stitches on the overalls for denim texture.
• Add olive duplicate stitches around the cardigan hem to strengthen the edge.

Making the Doll Stand

This cat is shown standing upright on a wooden garden table. To help your doll stand, make the shoes flat at the bottom and stuff the legs firmly. Before sewing the shoes on, press each sole gently against a flat surface.

If the doll still tips forward, add a few small plastic pellets or a fabric pouch of weighted beads inside the lower body. Keep any weighted filling safely sealed inside a fabric pouch before inserting it.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

• Sew the head securely to the body, then attach the ears with the pink centers facing forward.
• Sew the cream muzzle pads below the eyes, then add the chin patch underneath.
• Embroider the brown nose, black mouth line, and soft smile.
• Add white whiskers last so they stay clean and straight.
• Attach the head flowers and ladybug after all face embroidery is finished.
• Sew the arms under the cardigan shoulders and angle them downward.
• Secure the red bag strap diagonally across the chest.
• Place the sunhat, watering can, and shovel beside the cat as separate display props.

Care Notes

Spot clean the finished Gardening Cat with cool water and a soft cloth. Avoid soaking the toy because the face embroidery, tiny flowers, bag, and garden tools can lose shape if handled roughly while wet.

• Do not machine wash if safety eyes, wire, pipe cleaners, or weighted pellets are used.
• Let the toy air dry flat on a clean towel.
• Reshape the ears, cardigan fronts, bag flap, and hat brim while damp.
• Keep away from pets that may chew small accessories.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is round, firm, and slightly wider at the cheeks.
• The ears are pointed, upright, and edged in dark brown.
• The eyes are large, bright, and evenly placed.
• The cream muzzle pads are rounded and symmetrical.
• The green cardigan opens at the front with white trim visible.
• The blue overalls show clearly under the cardigan.
• The red bag crosses from shoulder to hip.
• The shoes have cream trim, claw stitches, and tiny bee details.
• The sunhat has yellow and white stripes with berries and leaves.
• The watering can and shovel are small, gray, and garden-themed.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the cat in a dry place away from direct sunlight. Bright yarn colors such as red, yellow, olive green, and blue may fade if displayed in strong light for long periods.

For dust removal, use a clean makeup brush or soft craft brush. Brush lightly over the cardigan embroidery, flowers, ladybug, and whiskers. Do not pull on the whiskers or the small daisy on the bag.

If the hat brim curls too much, place it flat under a light book overnight. If the cardigan edges lift, tack them down with matching thread using two or three small stitches.

When storing the accessories, wrap the watering can, shovel, and hat separately in tissue paper. This prevents the red bag strap, white whiskers, and embroidered flowers from catching on small pieces.

Pattern Completion

Your Gardening Cat is now ready for display. The finished piece should have the friendly orange tabby face, garden cardigan, blue overalls, red shoulder bag, bee shoes, striped sunhat, watering can, and shovel shown in the reference image. Take time with the small stitched details, because they create the sweet handmade garden character.