Crochet Tutorial: Sunflower Garden Shih Tzu – Free Crochet Pattern

This Sunflower Garden Shih Tzu crochet doll is a sweet garden-inspired amigurumi with long floppy ears, a rounded puppy face, a full white muzzle, glossy black eyes, and layered yarn hair tied with a pink bow. The doll wears a yellow and white striped sundress, matching sandals with tiny flowers, and carries a small sunflower tote bag. The set also includes a straw-style sun hat, a tiny watering can, and a small potted succulent.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US crochet terms and is designed to create a detailed sitting Shih Tzu doll with garden accessories. The finished doll is worked mainly in continuous spiral rounds, while the dress, skirt, bag, hat brim, flowers, sandals, and facial details use joined rounds, rows, surface crochet, and embroidery.

The doll in the image has a soft amigurumi body, a large expressive head, long brown and black ears, a white facial blaze, a thick white muzzle, and a cheerful yellow garden dress. The proportions are intentionally cute: the head is slightly oversized, the body is slim, the legs are long enough to cross at the ankles, and the accessories are small but clearly visible.

Finished Size

• Doll height: about 12.5 to 13.5 inches from the bottom of the feet to the top hair tuft.
• Seated height: about 10.5 inches when posed on a bench or table edge.
• Tote bag: about 2.5 inches wide and 2 inches tall, not including handles.
• Sun hat: about 4.75 inches across the brim.
• Watering can: about 2 inches tall.
• Potted succulent: about 1.75 inches tall.

Skill Level

Intermediate friendly. A confident beginner can make this project by following the stitch counts carefully. The main doll uses basic amigurumi shaping, but the final look depends on neat color changes, careful facial placement, layered ears, sewn-on hair strands, small flowers, and clean assembly.

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in warm cream for body, arms, legs, neck, and inner face.
• Worsted weight yarn in medium caramel brown for head patches, ears, and hair strands.
• Worsted weight yarn in white for face blaze, muzzle, chest stripe, skirt stripes, hair strands, and paw details.
• Worsted weight yarn in black for ear accents and small embroidery details.
• Worsted weight yarn in sunflower yellow for dress, skirt, straps, sandals, bow accents, hat ribbon, and flower centers.
• Small amounts of pink yarn for bow, tongue, and tiny sandal flowers.
• Small amounts of blue, white, yellow, and brown yarn for flower appliqués.
• Small amount of tan or straw-colored yarn for sun hat and tote bag.
• Small amount of gray yarn for watering can.
• Small amount of terracotta brown yarn for flower pot.
• Small amount of green yarn for succulent leaves and tote leaf detail.
• 12 mm black safety eyes or embroidered eyes.
• 15 mm black safety nose or black yarn for an embroidered oval nose.
• Polyester fiberfill.
• 3.25 mm crochet hook for the doll and dress.
• 3.00 mm crochet hook for flowers, sandals, bag details, and facial parts.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Scissors.
• Long sewing pins.
• Optional: blush powder for cheek shading.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• FO: fasten off
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• R: round or row

Gauge

Using a 3.25 mm hook and worsted weight yarn, 6 sc and 6 rounds should measure about 1 inch in firm amigurumi fabric. Your stitches should be tight enough that stuffing does not show through. If your fabric has visible gaps, use a smaller hook.

The exact gauge is not as important as consistent tension. The dress, sandals, bag, hat, and accessories must match the body size, so keep the same yarn weight throughout the full project. For tiny flowers and details, use the 3.00 mm hook to make the pieces tighter and more defined.

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Important Construction Notes

• Work most amigurumi parts in continuous rounds unless the pattern says to join.
• Stuff the head firmly, especially around the cheeks and muzzle area.
• Stuff the arms lightly so they hang naturally beside the dress.
• Stuff the legs firmly at the feet and lower legs, then more lightly near the thighs.
• The skirt is crocheted separately over the body to create the flared garden dress shape.
• The ears are made as long layered panels and then sewn from the top side of the head down beside the cheeks.
• The white muzzle is built from two rounded cheek pads and a central upper face area to match the image.
• The hair is made from attached yarn strands, separated into white, brown, cream, and black sections.

Body and Head Color Plan

The Shih Tzu face in the image has warm brown side patches, a white vertical blaze down the center, a rounded white muzzle, and long brown ears with black inner shadow strands. To keep the face accurate, crochet the head mostly in cream and brown, then add the white blaze and muzzle as separate sewn pieces.

The body is cream, but most of the torso is covered by the yellow and white striped sundress. The arms remain visible in cream. The legs are cream with little white toe bumps and yellow sandal straps. The crossed-leg pose is created during assembly, not while crocheting the legs.

Head

Use cream yarn for the base head. Work in continuous rounds. Stuff firmly as you go, shaping the cheeks with your fingers before closing.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc; repeat around. 48 sts.
9. R9: sc 7, inc; repeat around. 54 sts.
10. R10: sc 8, inc; repeat around. 60 sts.
11. R11-R20: sc around. 60 sts for 10 rounds.
12. R21: sc 8, dec; repeat around. 54 sts.
13. R22: sc 7, dec; repeat around. 48 sts.
14. R23: sc 6, dec; repeat around. 42 sts.
15. R24: sc 5, dec; repeat around. 36 sts.
16. R25: sc 4, dec; repeat around. 30 sts.
17. R26: sc 3, dec; repeat around. 24 sts.
18. R27: sc 2, dec; repeat around. 18 sts.
19. R28: sc 1, dec; repeat around. 12 sts.

Insert the safety eyes between R15 and R16, about 9 stitches apart. The eyes should sit above the muzzle area and slightly toward the front, giving the puppy the bright, round-eyed expression seen in the image. Stuff the head firmly before closing the final opening.

FO with a long tail. Weave through the front loops of the remaining stitches and pull closed. Do not sew on the ears yet. The face pieces, blaze, muzzle, nose, tongue, and hair should be placed first so the ears can frame everything neatly.

Brown Side Face Patches

Make two brown oval patches. These pieces sit on both sides of the face behind the eyes and under the ears. They should not cover the full face. The white center blaze must remain clearly visible.

Make 2

1. R1: Ch 7. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of the chain, sc 4, inc in last ch. 14 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 4, inc in next 3 sts, sc 4, inc in next 2 sts. 20 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 28 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 28 sts.

FO with a long sewing tail. Pin one patch to each side of the head from about R9 to R21. Let each patch curve around the eye but leave a clean cream center line for the white blaze. Sew with small whip stitches, catching only the outer loops.

White Center Face Blaze

The center blaze is the long white stripe running from the top of the forehead down between the eyes toward the muzzle. It should look slightly raised, like a soft strip of white fur.

1. Ch 16.
2. R1: Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 14, 3 sc in last ch. Work along the other side, sc 13, inc in last st. 32 sts.
3. R2: sl st 1, sc 13, hdc 3, sc 13, sl st 2. 32 sts.

FO with a long tail. Place the blaze vertically down the front of the head. The top should begin around R6 and the bottom should end around R18, just above the muzzle. Sew it flat, keeping the sides smooth and symmetrical.

Rounded White Muzzle

The white muzzle is wide and fluffy in the photo. It spreads outward beneath the nose like two rounded mustache pads. This crocheted base creates the shape, and later yarn strands are added for the long white fur effect.

Left Muzzle Pad

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5-R6: sc around. 24 sts.
6. R7: sc 2, dec; repeat around. 18 sts.

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FO with a long tail. Stuff lightly. Flatten the back only, leaving the front rounded.

Right Muzzle Pad

Repeat the left muzzle pad. Sew both pads side by side beneath the eyes, centered under the white blaze. The pads should touch in the middle and spread outward like a soft puppy mustache.

Central Chin Pad

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 18 sts.

FO with a long tail. Sew the chin pad under the two muzzle pads, slightly overlapping them. This creates a full white lower face and gives enough room for the small pink tongue.

Nose and Mouth

Place the black safety nose at the top center of the two muzzle pads, between R3 and R4 of the muzzle pieces. If embroidering the nose, use black yarn to stitch a horizontal oval about 5 stitches wide and 3 rows tall.

• With black embroidery yarn, stitch one straight vertical line from the bottom of the nose down about 2 rounds.
• Make a small curved mouth on each side of that line.
• Use pink yarn to embroider a tiny tongue below the mouth, about 4 stitches wide.
• Shape the tongue like a small upside-down heart by adding one center stitch at the bottom.

Long White Muzzle Fur Strands

The photo shows long white strands falling from the muzzle on both sides. These are not crocheted rounds; they are attached yarn strands that create the Shih Tzu’s soft beard.

1. Cut 24 white yarn strands, each about 5 inches long.
2. Attach 10 strands along the lower edge of the left muzzle pad using a lark’s head knot.
3. Attach 10 strands along the lower edge of the right muzzle pad.
4. Attach 4 shorter strands under the chin pad.
5. Trim the strands into a rounded curtain shape, about 1.5 inches long at the sides and 1 inch near the center.

Do not brush the strands. The image shows smooth yarn pieces, not fuzzy brushed fiber. Keep the ends straight and even so the muzzle looks clean and handmade.

Body

Use cream yarn. The body is narrow at the neck, rounded at the hips, and covered by the dress. Work in continuous rounds and stuff firmly enough to support the large head.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7-R12: sc around. 36 sts.
8. R13: sc 4, dec; repeat around. 30 sts.
9. R14-R17: sc around. 30 sts.
10. R18: sc 3, dec; repeat around. 24 sts.
11. R19-R22: sc around. 24 sts.
12. R23: sc 2, dec; repeat around. 18 sts.
13. R24-R27: sc around. 18 sts.

Stuff as you go, keeping the lower body rounded and the upper torso slimmer. FO with a long tail for sewing. The head will be attached after the dress base and straps are completed so the neckline can sit cleanly.

Neck Stabilizer

The doll has a large head, so a firm neck stabilizer helps the head sit upright. Use cream yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R8: sc around. 12 sts.

Stuff firmly. Insert this small tube into the top of the body before sewing on the head. Half of the tube should sit inside the body and half should extend into the head.

Arms

Make two arms in cream yarn. The arms are slim and hang down beside the dress. They should not be overstuffed.

Make 2

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 9 sts.
3. R3-R5: sc around. 9 sts.
4. R6: sc 1, dec; repeat around. 6 sts.
5. R7-R22: sc around. 6 sts.

Stuff the hand lightly and leave the upper arm almost flat. FO with a long tail. Sew the arms to the sides of the body between R22 and R24, angled slightly forward so they rest beside the skirt.

Legs and Feet

Make two legs in cream yarn. The feet are rounded and slightly larger than the legs. The finished legs are crossed at the ankles during assembly, matching the seated pose in the image.

Make 2

1. R1: Ch 6. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch. Work along other side, sc 3, inc in last st. 12 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 3, inc in next 3 sts, sc 3, inc in next 2 sts. 18 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 4, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 4, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 26 sts.
4. R4-R6: sc around. 26 sts.
5. R7: sc 7, dec 6 times, sc 7. 20 sts.
6. R8: sc 5, dec 5 times, sc 5. 15 sts.
7. R9: sc 3, dec 3 times, sc 6. 12 sts.
8. R10-R26: sc around. 12 sts.

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Stuff the foot firmly, the ankle medium firm, and the upper leg lightly. FO with a long tail. Sew the legs to the lower front of the body between R5 and R8, pointing downward first. After both are attached, cross the right ankle over the left and stitch them together invisibly with 3 small tacking stitches.

Toe Details

Use white yarn to create the paw-like toe bumps visible at the front of each sandal. Work these directly onto the front of each foot.

• Thread white yarn onto a yarn needle.
• Make 4 small satin-stitch ovals across the front of each foot.
• Each oval should be about 2 stitches wide and 2 rounds tall.
• Pull gently so the toe stitches sit raised but do not distort the foot.

Yellow and White Striped Sundress Base

The dress has a fitted yellow bodice with white stripes and a flared skirt. The stripes are horizontal and even. The dress should sit over the cream body, with the straps going over the shoulders and the skirt opening out softly.

Bodice

Use yellow yarn and work in joined rounds. Ch 1 at the start of each round does not count as a stitch.

1. R1: Ch 31. Join with sl st to form a ring, being careful not to twist. Sc 30 around. Join. 30 sts.
2. R2: Ch 1, sc around in yellow. Join. 30 sts.
3. R3: Change to white, sc around. Join. 30 sts.
4. R4: Change to yellow, sc around. Join. 30 sts.
5. R5: Yellow, sc 4, dec; repeat around. Join. 25 sts.
6. R6: White, sc around. Join. 25 sts.
7. R7: Yellow, sc around. Join. 25 sts.
8. R8: Yellow, sc 3, dec; repeat around. Join. 20 sts.
9. R9: White, sc around. Join. 20 sts.
10. R10: Yellow, sc around. Join. 20 sts.

FO and weave in ends. Slide the bodice over the body before attaching the head. The bottom of the bodice should sit around the widest part of the belly, and the top should reach just below the neck.

Dress Straps

Make two straps in yellow yarn.

1. Ch 14.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 13.
3. FO with a sewing tail.

Sew one strap from the front left bodice edge over the shoulder to the back left edge. Repeat on the right side. Place the straps about 6 stitches apart at the front. They should frame the cream neck and match the sleeveless dress in the image.

Flared Striped Skirt

The skirt begins at the bottom edge of the bodice and flares outward. Use yellow and white stripes. Work in joined rounds with the right side facing.

1. R1: Attach yellow yarn to the bottom front loop of the bodice. Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around. Join. 60 sts.
2. R2: Yellow, hdc around. Join. 60 sts.
3. R3: White, hdc around. Join. 60 sts.
4. R4: Yellow, hdc 5, inc; repeat around. Join. 70 sts.
5. R5: Yellow, hdc around. Join. 70 sts.
6. R6: White, hdc around. Join. 70 sts.
7. R7: Yellow, hdc 6, inc; repeat around. Join. 80 sts.
8. R8: Yellow, hdc around. Join. 80 sts.
9. R9: White, hdc around. Join. 80 sts.
10. R10: Yellow, hdc 7, inc; repeat around. Join. 90 sts.
11. R11: Yellow, hdc around. Join. 90 sts.
12. R12: White, hdc around. Join. 90 sts.
13. R13: Yellow, hdc around. Join. 90 sts.
14. R14: Yellow, sc around for a firm hem. Join. 90 sts.

FO and weave in ends. The skirt should flare gently like a bell. Do not block it flat. Shape it by hand so it curves around the seated doll and rests above the crossed legs.

Decorative Flower on Dress

The image shows a small flower cluster near the lower right side of the bodice. Make one tiny flower with pink petals and a yellow center, then add green leaves.

Flower

1. With yellow yarn, make 5 sc in MR. Join and FO.
2. Attach pink yarn to any stitch.
3. Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st.
4. Repeat the petal sequence in each of the 5 center stitches.
5. FO with a sewing tail.

Leaves

1. With green yarn, ch 5.
2. Sl st in second ch from hook, sc, hdc, sl st.
3. FO with a tail.

Sew the flower to the right front side of the dress around the waistline. Tuck the green leaf slightly under the flower so only the pointed end shows.

Long Floppy Ears

The Shih Tzu has long, soft ears that hang beside the face. Each ear is made as a brown panel with black inner accent strands and cream highlights. The ears should reach from the top side of the head down to the shoulder line.

Brown Ear Panels, Make 2

1. R1: Ch 9. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8. Ch 1, turn. 8 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 6, inc. Ch 1, turn. 10 sts.
3. R3-R8: sc across. Ch 1, turn. 10 sts.
4. R9: dec, sc 6, dec. Ch 1, turn. 8 sts.
5. R10-R18: sc across. Ch 1, turn. 8 sts.
6. R19: dec, sc 4, dec. Ch 1, turn. 6 sts.
7. R20-R24: sc across. Ch 1, turn. 6 sts.
8. R25: dec, sc 2, dec. 4 sts.

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FO with a long sewing tail. Make the second panel the same way. The top of each ear is wider, and the lower end is narrower and softly rounded.

Ear Edging

With brown yarn, sc evenly around the full ear panel, placing 2 sc in each lower corner. FO. This edging makes the ear smoother and gives it the thick crocheted look from the image.

Black Inner Ear Strands

• Cut 10 black yarn strands, each about 7 inches long.
• Attach 5 strands to the inner lower edge of each ear.
• Trim them to hang slightly shorter than the brown ear panel.
• Keep the black strands toward the inside, close to the face.

Brown Outer Ear Strands

• Cut 18 brown yarn strands, each about 7 inches long.
• Attach 9 strands along the outer lower edge of each ear.
• Trim them evenly so the ear has a soft tassel-like finish.

Pin the ears to the head starting around R9, directly behind the brown side patches. The ears should hang down beside the cheeks and stop near the top of the dress. Sew the top 1.25 inches of each ear securely to the head, leaving the lower part free.

Layered Hair Tuft

The hair tuft is one of the most important visual details. It stands up from the crown with separated strands in white, cream, brown, and black. A pink bow sits at the front center.

• Cut 8 white strands, each 7 inches long.
• Cut 6 cream strands, each 7 inches long.
• Cut 6 brown strands, each 7 inches long.
• Cut 2 black strands, each 7 inches long.

Attach the strands across the crown from R4 to R8 using lark’s head knots. Place the white strands in the center, brown and cream strands on both sides, and black strands near the outer back edges. Pull the strands upward and separate them with your fingers.

Trim the center strands to about 2.5 inches tall and the side strands to about 2 inches tall. The result should look like a fan of soft yarn hair, not a pom-pom. Keep the strands straight and defined.

Pink Bow

The bow sits at the front of the hair tuft. Use pink yarn and a 3.00 mm hook.

Bow Loops

1. Ch 8.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7. Ch 1, turn.
3. R2-R5: sc 7. Ch 1, turn.
4. FO, leaving a long tail.

Wrap yarn around the center of the rectangle 8 to 10 times to pinch it into a bow shape. Secure the wrap on the back. Sew the bow to the front center of the hair tuft, just above the white blaze.

Small Hair Flowers

The image shows tiny flowers near the ears. Make three small flowers: one yellow, one white with yellow center, and one blue with yellow center.

Tiny Five-Petal Flower

1. With center color, make 5 sc in MR. Join.
2. Change to petal color.
3. In each stitch: ch 2, sc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st.
4. FO with a sewing tail.

Sew one flower near the left side of the bow and two flowers near the right ear line. Keep them small and flat so they look like garden hair clips.

Sandals

The sandals are yellow and tan with little pink flowers on top. They wrap around the front of each foot and leave the white toe bumps visible.

Sandal Sole, Make 2

Use tan yarn.

1. Ch 7.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch.
3. Work along the other side, sc 4, inc in last st. 14 sts.
4. R2: inc, sc 4, inc in next 3 sts, sc 4, inc in next 2 sts. 20 sts.
5. FO with a sewing tail.

Sew one sole to the bottom of each foot. Keep the stitches shallow so the sole stays flat and oval.

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Yellow Front Strap, Make 2

1. Ch 11.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 10.
3. FO with a long tail.

Wrap each strap across the front of the foot above the toe bumps. Sew both ends to the sides of the foot. The strap should be snug but not pull the foot inward.

Ankle Strap, Make 2

1. Ch 13.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st 12.
3. FO with a long tail.

Sew each ankle strap around the lower leg, just above the foot. This creates the open sandal style shown in the image.

Tiny Sandal Flowers, Make 2

1. With yellow yarn, make 5 sc in MR. Join and FO.
2. With pink yarn, join to any stitch.
3. Ch 2, sl st in same st; repeat in each stitch around.
4. FO with a tail.

Sew one tiny flower to the front of each sandal strap. Position each flower slightly toward the outer side of the foot.

Sunflower Tote Bag

The tote bag is tan with yellow and white stripes and a sunflower appliqué. It hangs from one paw and should be small enough to look like a doll accessory.

Bag Body

Use tan yarn. Work in joined rounds.

1. R1: Ch 13. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 11, 3 sc in last ch. Work along other side, sc 10, inc in last st. Join. 26 sts.
2. R2: Ch 1, BLO sc around. Join. 26 sts.
3. R3: Tan, sc around. Join. 26 sts.
4. R4: White, sc around. Join. 26 sts.
5. R5: Yellow, sc around. Join. 26 sts.
6. R6: White, sc around. Join. 26 sts.
7. R7: Yellow, sc around. Join. 26 sts.
8. R8: Tan, sc around. Join. 26 sts.
9. R9: Tan, sc around. Join. 26 sts.

FO and weave in ends. Lightly flatten the bag. Do not stuff it fully. Add only a thin piece of stuffing if you want it to hold shape.

Bag Handles

Make two handles in tan yarn.

1. Ch 18.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st 17.
3. FO with two long tails.

Sew one handle to the front of the bag and one to the back. Attach each handle about 5 stitches apart. The handle should curve upward but remain firm.

Sunflower Appliqué

Use brown for the center and yellow for the petals.

1. With brown yarn, make 6 sc in MR. Join. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. Join. 12 sts.
3. Change to yellow.
4. In each stitch around: ch 3, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, sl st in same base st.
5. FO with a long tail.

Sunflower Leaves

1. With green yarn, ch 5.
2. Sl st in second ch, sc, hdc, sl st.
3. FO and make a second leaf.

Sew the sunflower to the front right side of the bag. Place the leaves under the lower right edge of the sunflower so they peek out clearly. Sew the bag handle into the doll’s right hand using 2 hidden stitches.

Straw-Style Sun Hat

The hat is a separate accessory placed beside the doll. It has a rounded crown, wide brim, and yellow ribbon bow.

Hat Crown

Use tan or straw-colored yarn. Work in continuous rounds.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: BLO sc around. 36 sts.
8. R8-R13: sc around. 36 sts.
9. R14: sc 4, dec; repeat around. 30 sts.
10. R15: sc around. 30 sts.

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Do not stuff the crown. FO only after the brim is completed.

Hat Brim

1. R1: FLO of R15, sc 2, inc; repeat around. 40 sts.
2. R2: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 50 sts.
3. R3: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 60 sts.
4. R4: sc 5, inc; repeat around. 70 sts.
5. R5: sc around. 70 sts.
6. R6: sl st around loosely for a clean edge. 70 sts.

FO and weave in ends. Shape the brim flat with your fingers. The brim should look wide and sunny, like the hat in the image.

Yellow Hat Ribbon

1. Ch 42.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 41.
3. FO with a long tail.

Wrap the ribbon around the base of the crown and sew it in place. Make a simple bow by crocheting a small rectangle: ch 8, sc 7 for 4 rows, then wrap the center with yellow yarn. Sew the bow to the side of the ribbon.

Tiny Watering Can

The watering can is gray and sits beside the doll. It is a small garden prop, so keep it compact and lightly stuffed.

Can Body

1. R1: With gray yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. R5-R9: sc around. 18 sts.
6. R10: sc 1, dec; repeat around. 12 sts.
7. Stuff lightly.
8. R11: dec around. 6 sts.

FO and close the top. Flatten the bottom slightly so the can can stand.

Spout

1. With gray yarn, ch 8.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7.
3. Ch 1, turn, sc 7 again.
4. FO with a long tail.

Roll the piece into a narrow tube and stitch the long edge closed. Sew one end to the side of the can, angled upward. Add a tiny round nozzle by making 6 sc in MR and sewing it to the spout tip.

Handle

1. Ch 16.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st 15.
3. FO with long tails.

Sew one end of the handle near the upper side of the can and the other end near the lower side. Shape it into a soft C curve.

Tiny Potted Succulent

The small potted succulent adds the garden table detail from the image. It is made with a terracotta pot and layered green leaves.

Pot

1. R1: With terracotta yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: BLO sc around. 12 sts.
4. R4: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
5. R5-R7: sc around. 18 sts.
6. R8: FLO sc around. 18 sts.
7. R9: sl st around. 18 sts.

Stuff lightly. FO and weave in ends.

Succulent Leaves

Make 8 leaves in green yarn.

1. Ch 6.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st.
3. FO with a tail.

Sew the leaves in a circle on top of the pot, overlapping the bases. Add 3 shorter leaves in the center by chaining 4 and working sl st, sc, sl st. Sew them upright in the middle.

Head and Body Assembly

Place the neck stabilizer into the top of the body. Slide the dress bodice into final position before attaching the head. Pin the head to the body so the face points forward and the muzzle sits directly above the dress center.

1. Use the long body tail to sew the head to the neck opening.
2. Work around the neck twice for strength.
3. Add extra stuffing into the neck area before closing the seam completely.
4. Check that the head does not tilt backward.
5. Secure the yarn and hide the tail inside the body.

The head should sit upright, with the white face blaze centered over the dress straps. If the head leans, add a few hidden stitches from the back of the neck into the lower back of the head.

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Arm and Bag Placement

The doll’s right arm should hold the sunflower tote bag. The left arm rests naturally along the side of the skirt. Place both arms slightly forward rather than straight out to the sides.

• Sew the left arm from shoulder level downward with 5 to 6 secure stitches.
• Sew the right arm the same way, then tack the paw to the tote handle.
• Do not pull the arm too tightly against the body.
• Keep the bag hanging at skirt level, not below the knee.

Leg Positioning

The legs are crossed at the ankles in the image. To copy this pose, sew the legs to the lower body first, then cross them gently after the skirt is positioned.

1. Attach both legs to the front lower body between R5 and R8.
2. Let the skirt fall over the upper thighs.
3. Cross the right foot over the left foot.
4. Use cream yarn to tack the ankles together with 3 hidden stitches.
5. Adjust the sandals so the flowers face forward.

Final Hair and Ear Styling

After the head is attached, check the ears and hair from the front. The ears should frame the muzzle and reach just past the shoulder area. The hair should rise upward from the crown and spread like a small fan.

• Trim brown ear strands evenly on both sides.
• Keep black strands visible near the inner ear edge.
• Trim the white muzzle strands into a rounded curve.
• Center the pink bow between the hair tuft and white blaze.
• Sew the tiny flowers near the ears after trimming the hair.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the face before weaving in all ends. The eyes should be level and shiny, the nose should sit centered above the white muzzle, and the tongue should show just below the mouth. Add tiny white highlight stitches beside embroidered eyes if you are not using safety eyes.

Use small hidden stitches to secure any loose muzzle strands near the top edge. Do not stitch the full length of the strands down. They should hang like soft fur. If desired, add a very light blush under each eye using a clean brush and a tiny amount of pink blush powder.

Sew all accessories in stable positions. The tote bag should hang from the right paw. The hat, watering can, and succulent can remain separate props, or you may lightly tack them to a display base if the finished piece will be used for photography.

Care Notes

• Spot clean only with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if safety eyes, safety nose, or small sewn accessories are used.
• Do not wring the doll, because the skirt, ears, and hair strands may lose shape.
• Let the doll air dry flat on a clean towel.
• Keep the long yarn hair and muzzle strands away from rough hook-and-loop fabric.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Face: eyes are even, nose is centered, tongue is visible, and muzzle strands are trimmed.
• Ears: both ears are the same length and hang beside the cheeks.
• Hair: white, cream, brown, and black strands are separated and the pink bow is centered.
• Dress: yellow and white stripes line up neatly and the skirt flares outward.
• Legs: feet are crossed naturally and sandals face forward.
• Bag: sunflower appliqué is secure and the handle is attached to the paw.
• Props: hat brim is flat, watering can stands, and succulent leaves are layered.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the Sunflower Garden Shih Tzu away from direct sunlight for extended periods. Bright light can fade yellow, pink, brown, and green yarn over time. A shaded shelf, craft display box, or covered cabinet is best.

If dust gathers on the hair, ears, or dress, use a soft dry brush and move gently in the direction of the yarn strands. Avoid pulling the long muzzle fur. If a strand becomes uneven, trim only the end with sharp scissors.

Store the doll upright or lying flat with the ears arranged smoothly beside the face. Do not compress the bow, skirt, bag, or hat under heavier items. Small accessories should be kept in a labeled pouch if they are not sewn to the doll.

When gifting the doll, include a note explaining that it is handmade and contains small parts. If making this for a young child, embroider the eyes and nose instead of using plastic safety pieces, and sew every flower, strap, and accessory with extra reinforcement.

Finished Look

Your completed doll should look like a cheerful garden Shih Tzu dressed for a sunny afternoon. The key visual details are the white rounded muzzle, long brown ears with black accents, bright pink bow, tiny hair flowers, yellow and white striped sundress, crossed legs, flower sandals, sunflower tote bag, straw hat, watering can, and potted succulent.

Take time with the trimming and assembly. The crochet pieces create the structure, but the final expression comes from careful placement of the face, neat hair strands, balanced ears, and small floral details. These finishing touches bring the Sunflower Garden Shih Tzu to life.