Crochet Tutorial: Minnie Mouse Daisy Summer Dress – Free Crochet Pattern.

This cheerful crochet doll features a classic black mouse head with round ears, a peach face, a red bow with white polka dots, a bright blue daisy summer dress, white gloves, black legs, white sandals, a yellow crossbody bag, a wide blue sun hat, and tiny garden accessories. The finished design is sweet, detailed, and made to look like a sunny handmade garden-day outfit.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

Using the yarn and hook listed below, the finished doll measures about 14 inches tall from the bottom of the sandals to the top of the bow. The blue sun hat measures about 7 inches across. Gauge is not extremely strict, but tight stitches are important so the stuffing does not show.

Skill Level

This pattern is best for confident beginners and intermediate crocheters. The doll uses basic amigurumi shaping, color changes, small flat appliques, surface details, and careful sewing. Read through the full pattern before starting so the facial pieces and accessories line up correctly.

Materials

• Worsted weight yarn in black, peach, bright blue, red, white, yellow, gray, small amounts of green, orange, and brown
• 3.0 mm crochet hook for the main doll
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for flowers, bag flap, facial details, and small accessories
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Two 12 mm black safety eyes or glossy black buttons for pupils
• Black embroidery thread for eyelashes, smile, and shoe details
• White felt or crocheted white eye ovals, depending on your preference
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers
• Pins for placement
• Scissors
• Optional: small amount of cardboard or plastic canvas for the purse and sandal soles

Abbreviations in US Terms

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• inc = 2 single crochet in the same stitch
• dec = invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• R = round or row
• FO = fasten off

Important Notes Before You Start

Work most amigurumi pieces in continuous rounds unless the pattern says to join. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. Stuff firmly, but do not overstuff the face because the peach muzzle and cheeks need to sit smoothly on the front.

The doll is made from the feet upward, with the legs attached to the body. The dress is worked separately and sewn around the body. The head is made as a black head base with a peach face panel and peach muzzle pieces layered on top for the raised cartoon face shape.

For the closest look to the image, keep the stitches tight and smooth. The blue dress should flare outward, the sleeves should puff, the bow should stand upright between the ears, and the accessories should remain small compared with the doll.

Gauge Guide

• 6 sc across should measure about 1 inch with worsted yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.
• 8 rounds of sc should measure about 1 inch vertically.
• If your stitches are loose, go down a hook size.
• If the fabric feels stiff and hard to sew through, go up slightly.

Legs and Feet

Make two legs. Begin with the sandal sole color so the bottom looks light like the image. Then switch to black for the foot and leg. The feet are slightly rounded and wider at the front, with white sandal straps added later.

Foot and Leg, Make 2

1. With beige or very pale cream yarn, ch 7.
2. R1: Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Working on the other side of the chain, sc 4, inc in last st. 14 sts.
3. R2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. 20 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, repeat inc, sc 1 three times, sc 5, inc, sc 1, inc. 26 sts.
5. R4: BLO sc around. 26 sts.
6. Change to black yarn.
7. R5: sc around. 26 sts.
8. R6: sc 7, dec 6 times, sc 7. 20 sts.
9. R7: sc 5, dec 5 times, sc 5. 15 sts.
10. R8: sc 4, dec 3 times, sc 5. 12 sts.
11. Stuff the foot firmly, especially the toe area.
12. R9-R26: sc around for 18 rounds. 12 sts each round.
13. Stuff the leg evenly. For the first leg, FO and weave in the end. For the second leg, do not fasten off.

📌Thank you for reading the article

White Sandal Straps, Make 2 Sets

1. With white yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, ch 18.
2. R1: Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 17. FO, leaving a long tail.
3. Sew one strap across the top front of each black foot, about 2 rounds behind the toe edge.
4. Make a second strap for each foot by ch 14, sc 13, FO, and sew it around the ankle area.
5. With black embroidery thread, stitch two small vertical lines on the outer side of each white strap to match the shoe detail in the image.
6. Optional: Sew one tiny white and yellow daisy on the outer side of each sandal strap.

Body

The body is worked in black at the lower body and peach for the upper chest area hidden under the blue dress. The dress will cover most of the body, but a solid shape keeps the doll sturdy and easy to pose flat on a table.

Join Legs and Crochet Body

1. Hold both legs with the toes pointing forward. With black yarn still attached to the second leg, ch 3.
2. R1: sc 12 around the first leg, sc 3 across the chain, sc 12 around the second leg, sc 3 on the other side of the chain. 30 sts.
3. R2: sc around. 30 sts.
4. R3: sc 7, inc, sc 14, inc, sc 7. 32 sts.
5. R4-R8: sc around for 5 rounds. 32 sts each round.
6. Change to peach yarn.
7. R9: BLO sc around. 32 sts. The front loops will help support the dress waist if desired.
8. R10-R14: sc around for 5 rounds. 32 sts each round.
9. R15: sc 6, dec, sc 14, dec, sc 8. 30 sts.
10. R16: sc around. 30 sts.
11. R17: sc 3, dec around. 24 sts.
12. R18: sc around. 24 sts.
13. Stuff the body firmly, especially between the legs and at the hips.
14. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing the head later.

Arms

The arms are black with white gloves. Each glove has a rounded mitten shape and three finger bumps, as shown in the image. The arms hang slightly outward from under the blue puff sleeves.

Gloved Hand and Arm, Make 2

1. With white yarn, make MR.
2. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
3. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts.
5. R4-R5: sc around. 18 sts each round.
6. R6: sc 4, bobble finger, sc 2, bobble finger, sc 2, bobble finger, sc 8. 18 sts.
7. To make each bobble finger: yarn over, insert hook in stitch, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, repeat 3 times in same stitch, then yarn over and pull through all loops.
8. R7: sc 4, dec 5 times, sc 4. 13 sts.
9. R8: sc 3, dec 3 times, sc 4. 10 sts.
10. Change to black yarn.
11. R9: BLO sc around. 10 sts.
12. R10-R23: sc around for 14 rounds. 10 sts each round.
13. Stuff the glove lightly. Leave most of the arm unstuffed so it hangs naturally.
14. Flatten the top and sc through both layers with 5 sc. FO, leaving a long tail.

Glove Cuff, Make 2

1. Attach white yarn to the unused front loop of R9 on the arm.
2. R1: ch 1, sc around in each front loop. 10 sts.
3. R2: sc 1, inc around. 15 sts.
4. R3: sc around. 15 sts.
5. FO and weave in the end. Fold the cuff slightly outward.

Head Base

The head is a large rounded black base. The front peach face panel will be sewn on top, leaving black around the upper forehead, sides, and back. This creates the classic mouse face shape visible in the image.

Black Head

1. With black yarn, make MR.
2. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
3. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts.
5. R4: sc 2, inc around. 24 sts.
6. R5: sc 3, inc around. 30 sts.
7. R6: sc 4, inc around. 36 sts.
8. R7: sc 5, inc around. 42 sts.
9. R8: sc 6, inc around. 48 sts.
10. R9: sc 7, inc around. 54 sts.
11. R10: sc 8, inc around. 60 sts.
12. R11-R23: sc around for 13 rounds. 60 sts each round.
13. R24: sc 8, dec around. 54 sts.
14. R25: sc 7, dec around. 48 sts.
15. R26: sc 6, dec around. 42 sts.
16. R27: sc 5, dec around. 36 sts.
17. Begin stuffing the head firmly. Shape it into a smooth oval, slightly taller than it is wide.
18. R28: sc 4, dec around. 30 sts.
19. R29: sc 3, dec around. 24 sts.
20. R30: sc 2, dec around. 18 sts.
21. R31: sc 1, dec around. 12 sts.
22. R32: dec around. 6 sts.
23. FO and close the opening securely.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Peach Face Panel

The peach face panel is worked as a flat oval with a shallow heart-shaped upper edge. It sits on the front of the black head, covering the lower face and cheeks while leaving black visible around the sides and top.

Flat Peach Face Applique

1. With peach yarn and a 3.0 mm hook, ch 13.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 11, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side, sc 10, inc in last st. 26 sts.
3. R2: inc, sc 10, inc 3 times, sc 10, inc 2 times. 32 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 11, repeat sc 1, inc three times, sc 11, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 40 sts.
5. R4: sc 2, inc, sc 12, repeat sc 2, inc three times, sc 12, sc 2, inc, sc 2, inc. 48 sts.
6. R5: sc 3, inc, sc 13, repeat sc 3, inc three times, sc 13, sc 3, inc, sc 3, inc. 56 sts.
7. R6: sc around. 56 sts.
8. Do not fasten off. Now shape the top dip.
9. Row 7: sc 14, hdc 4, dc 3, sl st 4, dc 3, hdc 4, sc 14. Leave the remaining stitches unworked if your oval already reaches the lower cheeks.
10. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Placing the Face Panel

• Pin the panel to the front of the head between R9 and R27 of the black head.
• The top center dip should sit slightly below the top of the forehead.
• The widest peach area should sit across the cheek area.
• Sew the panel with small whip stitches around the edge.
• Add a little stuffing under the center of the panel only if you want a softly raised face.

Muzzle and Cheeks

The muzzle is peach and raised. It sits horizontally across the lower face with two rounded cheeks. The black nose is sewn in the center, above the smile.

Raised Muzzle Oval

1. With peach yarn, ch 9.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side, sc 6, inc. 18 sts.
3. R2: inc, sc 6, inc 3 times, sc 6, inc 2 times. 24 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 7, repeat sc 1, inc three times, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 32 sts.
5. R4-R5: sc around. 32 sts each round.
6. R6: sc 2, dec around. 24 sts.
7. FO, leaving a long tail. Stuff lightly.

Cheek Pads, Make 2

1. With peach yarn, make MR.
2. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
3. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts.
5. R4: sc around. 18 sts.
6. FO, leaving a sewing tail.
7. Sew one cheek pad to each side of the muzzle, slightly below the eye area.

Black Nose

1. With black yarn, make MR.
2. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
3. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts.
5. R4-R5: sc around. 18 sts each round.
6. R6: sc 1, dec around. 12 sts.
7. Stuff lightly, FO, and sew closed.
8. Sew the nose to the center of the muzzle, slightly raised above the smile line.

Eyes and Facial Embroidery

The eyes are tall white ovals with glossy black pupils near the lower center. Long eyelashes curve upward from the outer top edges. The mouth is a wide black smile with a red tongue piece inside.

Crocheted White Eye Ovals, Make 2

1. With white yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, ch 8.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side, sc 5, inc. 16 sts.
3. R2: inc, sc 5, inc 3 times, sc 5, inc 2 times. 22 sts.
4. R3: sc around. 22 sts.
5. FO, leaving a long tail.
6. Sew the eye ovals vertically on the peach face panel, above the muzzle, with a narrow gap between them.

Pupils and Lashes

1. Attach one black safety eye or sew one glossy black button onto the lower half of each white eye oval.
2. With black embroidery thread, stitch three lashes above each eye.
3. Make the center lash the longest, about 3 rounds tall.
4. Angle the outer lashes toward the sides of the face.
5. Use black embroidery thread to create a curved smiling line from one cheek to the other.

Open Mouth and Tongue

1. With black yarn or black felt, make a small crescent shape about 1.25 inches wide.
2. For a crocheted version: ch 7, sc 6, turn, dec, sc 2, dec, FO.
3. With red yarn, ch 5, sc 4, turn, dec twice, FO.
4. Sew the red tongue to the lower center of the black mouth.
5. Sew the mouth below the muzzle, following the smile curve.

Round Ears

The ears are large, round, black, and placed on both sides of the head. They should be slightly behind the face panel and aligned with the upper half of the head.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Ear Circles, Make 4

1. With black yarn, make MR.
2. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
3. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts.
5. R4: sc 2, inc around. 24 sts.
6. R5: sc 3, inc around. 30 sts.
7. R6: sc 4, inc around. 36 sts.
8. R7: sc 5, inc around. 42 sts.
9. R8: sc around. 42 sts.
10. FO on the first circle. Do not FO on the second circle for each ear.

Join Each Ear

1. Place two circles together with wrong sides facing.
2. Sc through both layers around the edge. 42 sts.
3. Before closing completely, insert a thin layer of stuffing or a circle of felt for firmness.
4. FO, leaving a long tail.
5. Sew the ears to the head between R8 and R18, one on each side.
6. Angle the ears slightly outward so they frame the bow and face.

Red Bow with White Polka Dots

The bow is large and sits between the ears. It has two rounded triangular loops, a center band, and white circular dots. The bow should be tall enough to rise above the ears, just like in the image.

Bow Loop, Make 2

1. With red yarn, ch 10.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 9, ch 1, turn. 9 sts.
3. R2: inc, sc 7, inc, ch 1, turn. 11 sts.
4. R3: inc, sc 9, inc, ch 1, turn. 13 sts.
5. R4: sc around, ch 1, turn. 13 sts.
6. R5: inc, sc 11, inc, ch 1, turn. 15 sts.
7. R6-R10: sc across, ch 1, turn. 15 sts each row.
8. R11: dec, sc 11, dec, ch 1, turn. 13 sts.
9. R12: dec, sc 9, dec, ch 1, turn. 11 sts.
10. R13: dec, sc 7, dec. 9 sts.
11. Sc evenly around the entire loop, placing 3 sc in each top corner. FO.

Bow Center Band

1. With red yarn, ch 9.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8, ch 1, turn.
3. R2-R5: sc 8, ch 1, turn.
4. FO, leaving a long tail.
5. Pinch the inner ends of both bow loops together.
6. Wrap the center band around the pinched center and sew securely at the back.

White Polka Dots

1. Make 7 white dots for the bow.
2. For each dot: 6 sc in MR, sl st to close, FO, leaving a tail.
3. Make 2 larger dots by working R1: 6 sc in MR, R2: inc around. 12 sts.
4. Sew one larger dot on each bow loop near the upper outside area.
5. Sew the smaller dots across both loops, spacing them evenly and keeping one near the center top.

Blue Daisy Summer Dress

The dress has a fitted bodice, short puff sleeves, a flared skirt, and a scalloped hem. It is bright blue and decorated with white daisies. The waist sits high on the body, and the skirt flares over the hips.

Dress Bodice

1. With bright blue yarn, ch 33.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 32, ch 1, turn.
3. R2: sc 4, ch 6, skip 6, sc 12, ch 6, skip 6, sc 4, ch 1, turn. This creates armholes.
4. R3: sc 4, sc 6 into ch space, sc 12, sc 6 into ch space, sc 4. 32 sts.
5. R4-R7: sc across, ch 1, turn. 32 sts each row.
6. R8: sc 3, dec, sc 22, dec, sc 3. 30 sts.
7. R9: sc across. 30 sts.
8. R10: sc 4, dec, sc 18, dec, sc 4. 28 sts.
9. R11: sc across. 28 sts.
10. FO, leaving a long tail.
11. Wrap the bodice around the upper body and sew the back seam neatly.

Skirt

1. Attach blue yarn around the lower edge of the bodice.
2. R1: ch 1, work 44 sc evenly around the waist edge, sl st to join. 44 sts.
3. R2: ch 2, hdc around, sl st to join. 44 sts.
4. R3: ch 2, hdc 3, inc hdc around. 55 sts.
5. R4: ch 2, hdc around. 55 sts.
6. R5: ch 2, hdc 4, inc hdc around. 66 sts.
7. R6-R8: ch 2, hdc around. 66 sts each round.
8. R9: ch 2, hdc 5, inc hdc around. 77 sts.
9. R10-R13: ch 2, hdc around. 77 sts each round.
10. R14: ch 2, hdc 6, inc hdc around. 88 sts.
11. R15-R17: ch 2, hdc around. 88 sts each round.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Scalloped Hem

1. R18: ch 1, skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st. Repeat around.
2. Adjust the final repeat if needed so the scallops sit evenly around the skirt.
3. FO and weave in all ends.
4. Steam lightly with your hand nearby, not touching the yarn directly, to help the skirt flare outward.

Puff Sleeves, Make 2

1. Attach blue yarn to one armhole opening.
2. R1: ch 1, work 18 sc evenly around the armhole, sl st to join.
3. R2: ch 2, hdc inc around. 36 sts.
4. R3-R4: ch 2, hdc around. 36 sts each round.
5. R5: ch 1, sc 2, dec around. 27 sts.
6. R6: ch 1, sc 1, dec around. 18 sts.
7. R7: ch 1, skip 1, 4 dc in next st, skip 1, sl st in next st. Repeat around for a small ruffled sleeve edge.
8. FO and weave in the end.
9. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Daisies for Dress, Hat, Bag, Sandals, and Watering Can

The white daisies are small, flat, and cheerful. Use the same flower pattern in different places. The dress has five larger daisies on the skirt, the hat has several daisies on a green vine, the purse has one orange flower, and the small accessories have tiny white flowers.

White Daisy, Make 12 to 16

1. With yellow yarn, make MR.
2. R1: 6 sc in MR, sl st to close. Change to white yarn.
3. Petal 1: ch 4, starting in second ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, sl st into next yellow stitch.
4. Repeat the petal instructions 5 more times for 6 petals total.
5. FO, leaving a tail for sewing.

Orange Flower for Yellow Bag

1. With white or yellow yarn, make MR and work 5 sc in the ring.
2. Change to orange yarn.
3. In each stitch, work ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sl st into same stitch.
4. Repeat in each stitch to make 5 rounded petals.
5. FO, leaving a tail for sewing to the purse flap.

Yellow Crossbody Bag

The yellow bag is small, rounded, and sits on the front right side of the blue dress. A long yellow strap crosses from the shoulder to the opposite hip. The front flap has a small flower decoration.

Bag Body

1. With yellow yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, ch 11.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 9, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side, sc 8, inc. 22 sts.
3. R2: inc, sc 8, inc 3 times, sc 8, inc 2 times. 28 sts.
4. R3: BLO sc around. 28 sts.
5. R4-R10: sc around. 28 sts each round.
6. Flatten the top slightly and sc through both layers for 14 sc, leaving the front open-looking but closed for stability.
7. FO and weave in the end.

Bag Flap

1. With yellow yarn, ch 10.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 9, ch 1, turn.
3. R2: sc 9, ch 1, turn.
4. R3: dec, sc 5, dec, ch 1, turn. 7 sts.
5. R4: dec, sc 3, dec, ch 1, turn. 5 sts.
6. R5: sc 5.
7. FO, leaving a tail.
8. Sew the flat edge of the flap to the back top of the bag and let the pointed edge fall over the front.

Bag Strap

1. With yellow yarn, ch 75.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across.
3. FO, leaving long tails.
4. Sew one end to each upper side of the bag.
5. Place the strap diagonally across the doll from the left shoulder to the right hip.
6. Tack the strap to the dress at the shoulder and waist so it stays in position.

Blue Sun Hat

The separate blue sun hat is shown beside the doll. It is wide and flat with a slightly raised crown. A green vine curves across the brim with white daisies attached. This accessory should look like a garden hat placed next to the doll.

Hat Crown

1. With bright blue yarn, make MR.
2. R1: 8 sc in MR. 8 sts.
3. R2: inc around. 16 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc around. 24 sts.
5. R4: sc 2, inc around. 32 sts.
6. R5: sc 3, inc around. 40 sts.
7. R6: sc 4, inc around. 48 sts.
8. R7: sc 5, inc around. 56 sts.
9. R8: BLO sc around. 56 sts.
10. R9-R13: sc around. 56 sts each round.

Hat Brim

1. R14: FLO sc 6, inc around. 64 sts.
2. R15: sc 7, inc around. 72 sts.
3. R16: sc 8, inc around. 80 sts.
4. R17: sc 9, inc around. 88 sts.
5. R18: sc 10, inc around. 96 sts.
6. R19: sc 11, inc around. 104 sts.
7. R20-R21: sc around. 104 sts each round.
8. R22: crab stitch around, or work reverse sc for a firm brim edge.
9. FO and weave in all ends.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Hat Vine and Daisy Trim

1. With green yarn, ch 70.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st across. FO.
3. Curve the vine across the brim from one side to the front and toward the opposite side.
4. Sew the vine down using small stitches every few chains.
5. Sew 4 white daisies along the vine.
6. Add two short white accent stitches on the brim, matching the image.

Gray Watering Can

The tiny watering can is gray with a rounded body, handle, spout, and white daisy on the front. It sits as a garden accessory beside the doll.

Watering Can Body

1. With gray yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, make MR.
2. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
3. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts.
5. R4: sc 2, inc around. 24 sts.
6. R5-R8: sc around. 24 sts each round.
7. R9: sc 2, dec around. 18 sts.
8. R10: sc 1, dec around. 12 sts.
9. Stuff lightly.
10. R11: dec around. 6 sts.
11. FO and close.

Watering Can Spout

1. With gray yarn, ch 8.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, ch 1, turn.
3. R2: sc 7.
4. Fold lengthwise and sew into a narrow tube.
5. Sew one end to the upper side of the watering can body.
6. Angle the spout upward slightly.

Watering Can Handle

1. With gray yarn, ch 16.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 15.
3. FO, leaving tails on both ends.
4. Sew one end near the upper back of the can and the other near the lower back.
5. Sew one tiny white daisy to the front center.

Small Yellow Bee Garden Charm

The yellow piece in the image looks like a small bee or beehive-style garden charm. It has a rounded yellow body, a brown circular front detail, tiny blue wings, and a small green stem at the top.

Yellow Body

1. With yellow yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, make MR.
2. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
3. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts.
5. R4: sc 2, inc around. 24 sts.
6. R5-R8: sc around. 24 sts each round.
7. R9: sc 2, dec around. 18 sts.
8. R10: sc 1, dec around. 12 sts.
9. Stuff lightly.
10. R11: dec around. 6 sts.
11. FO and close.

Brown Front Dot

1. With brown yarn, make MR.
2. R1: 6 sc in MR.
3. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
4. FO, leaving a tail.
5. Sew to the front center of the yellow body.

Blue Wings and Green Stem

1. For each wing, with light blue yarn, ch 5.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, 4 dc in last ch.
3. Working on the other side, dc 1, hdc 1, sc 1. FO.
4. Make 2 wings and sew them to the sides of the yellow body.
5. For the top stem, ch 5 with green yarn, sl st back across, and sew to the top.

Tiny Blue Garden Trowel

The image includes a small blue hand tool beside the watering can. This piece is optional but helps complete the garden look. Make it narrow, flat, and simple so it does not overpower the doll.

1. With light blue yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, ch 9.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8, ch 1, turn.
3. R2: sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1.
4. FO and weave in the end.
5. With gray yarn, ch 7 and sl st back across to make the handle.
6. Sew the handle to the bottom of the blue trowel head.

Small Daisy Hair Accent

A tiny daisy sits near one ear, adding the same garden theme as the dress and hat. Use one small daisy and one small green leaf.

Leaf

1. With green yarn, ch 6.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, hdc 1, sc 1.
3. FO, leaving a tail.
4. Sew the leaf beside a tiny daisy near the left ear or at the base of the bow.

Attaching the Head, Arms, and Dress Details

Before sewing permanently, pin every piece in place. The face should look centered from the front, the ears should sit evenly, and the bow should stand between the ears. The arms should emerge from under the puff sleeves and hang down naturally.

1. Place the head on top of the body with the face looking forward.
2. Use the body tail to sew around the neck twice for strength.
3. Add extra stitches at the front and back of the neck to prevent wobbling.
4. Pin each arm under a sleeve, around R16 of the body.
5. Sew the flattened top of each arm securely to the side of the body.
6. Pull the sleeve edge slightly over the arm seam to hide the join.
7. Sew the yellow bag strap diagonally across the bodice after the arms are attached.

Dress Daisy Placement

• Sew one daisy near the lower left side of the skirt.
• Sew one daisy near the center front of the skirt.
• Sew one daisy near the lower right side.
• Sew one daisy slightly above the left lower daisy.
• Sew one daisy near the right side, partly under the bag strap if desired.
• Keep the daisies spaced unevenly for a natural garden look.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the red bow to the top of the head between the ears. Use several stitches through the back of the bow center and into the black head. The bow should sit upright, with the two red loops slightly leaning outward.

Check the face from the front before finishing. The nose should be centered, the eyes should be tall and bright, and the cheeks should look rounded. Add a few extra black embroidery stitches to deepen the smile if needed.

Place the blue sun hat beside the doll rather than forcing it over the bow. The hat in the image is a separate accessory, decorated with a curved green vine and daisies. Shape the brim flat with your fingers.

Arrange the watering can, yellow bee charm, and tiny blue trowel around the doll. These small accessories give the finished crochet scene a summer garden feeling and match the daisy theme.

Care Notes

• Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not wring the doll, because the bow, ears, and face pieces may lose shape.
• Let the doll air dry flat on a towel.
• Keep the small accessories in a fabric pouch when not displayed.
• If safety eyes or buttons are used, this doll is best as decor rather than a toy for children under 3.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The black ears are even and firmly sewn.
• The red bow is centered between the ears.
• The peach face panel is smooth with no puckering.
• The eyes are vertical and symmetrical.
• The blue dress flares outward with a scalloped hem.
• The white gloves have visible finger bumps.
• The yellow bag rests at the front right side of the skirt.
• The sun hat has a green vine and white daisies.
• The sandals have white straps and tiny details.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, avoid machine washing. Use a soft damp cloth to clean dusty areas, especially around the face, bow, and dress flowers. For deeper cleaning, lightly dab the surface with diluted mild soap, then dab again with clean water.

Allow every piece to dry fully before storing. Keep the doll away from direct sunlight for long periods, because red, blue, and yellow yarn can fade. Store the doll upright or flat in a breathable cotton bag.

If the skirt or sun hat brim becomes flattened, reshape it gently with your fingers while slightly damp. Do not iron directly on acrylic yarn. A light steam from a safe distance can help relax the stitches without damaging the fibers.

Pattern Finish

Your finished crochet doll should now have the same cheerful summer garden style as the image: a black mouse-inspired character with a peach smiling face, red polka dot bow, bright blue daisy dress, white gloves, sandals, yellow flower bag, blue daisy sun hat, and tiny gardening accessories. Take your time with the final placement, because the expression and small details bring the whole design to life.