Crochet Tutorial: Daisy Sheep Garden Doll – Free Crochet Pattern.

Crochet Tutorial: Daisy Sheep Garden Doll – Free Crochet Pattern.

This cheerful Daisy Sheep Garden Doll is a soft amigurumi sheep with a green body, long floppy ears, big round eyes, a textured woolly head cap, and a bright yellow-and-white garden dress. The design includes a daisy-covered skirt, tiny flowers, a crossbody bag, sandals with ladybugs, a straw hat, a small potted succulent, and a miniature garden trowel.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern uses US crochet terms and is written for a detailed amigurumi doll inspired by the image. The sheep sits about 10 to 12 inches tall when made with worsted weight yarn and a 2.75 mm hook. The finished size can change depending on yarn thickness, hook size, stuffing firmness, and personal tension.

The doll is worked mostly in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker at the beginning of every round. Stuff the head, body, arms, legs, ears, shoes, bag, hat, and accessories firmly enough to hold shape, but do not overstuff until the stitches stretch open.

Skill Level

  • Level: Intermediate.
  • Skills used: Magic ring, single crochet, increases, invisible decreases, half double crochet, double crochet, slip stitch, color changes, surface embroidery, bobble stitches, sewing small pieces, and shaping amigurumi parts.
  • Beginner tip: Read each section fully before starting. Many decorative details are small, so work slowly and check placement often.

Finished Measurements

  • Doll height while seated: About 10 to 12 inches from top of head to feet.
  • Head height: About 3.5 inches.
  • Body height: About 4 inches before skirt trim.
  • Leg length: About 3.5 inches.
  • Ear length: About 3 inches each.
  • Straw hat width: About 3.25 inches.
  • Bag size: About 1.5 inches wide.

Materials

  • Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in light green for the sheep body.
  • Worsted weight yarn in darker green for dress trim, bag, leaves, sandals, and strap.
  • Worsted weight yarn in yellow for dress stripes, flower centers, bag trim, and skirt panels.
  • Worsted weight yarn in white for eyes, daisies, dress stripes, and scalloped trim.
  • Worsted weight yarn in gray for inner ears and trowel blade.
  • Worsted weight yarn in black for hooves, mouth embroidery, and tiny bee stripes.
  • Worsted weight yarn in beige or straw color for the hat and trowel handle.
  • Small amounts of pink, blue, red, and dark green for flowers, ladybugs, and succulent.
  • 2.75 mm crochet hook for the doll and main pieces.
  • 2.25 mm crochet hook for flowers, leaves, ladybugs, bee, and small details.
  • 10 mm black safety eyes or black beads for the pupils.
  • Fiberfill stuffing.
  • Yarn needle.
  • Stitch markers.
  • Small embroidery needle.
  • Black embroidery thread for mouth, nose line, and ladybug spots.
  • Optional: blush powder for soft cheek shading.

Abbreviations

  • MR: Magic ring.
  • ch: Chain.
  • sl st: Slip stitch.
  • sc: Single crochet.
  • hdc: Half double crochet.
  • dc: Double crochet.
  • inc: 2 single crochet in the same stitch.
  • dec: Invisible single crochet decrease.
  • BLO: Back loop only.
  • FLO: Front loop only.
  • st: Stitch.
  • sts: Stitches.
  • R: Round or row.
  • BO: Bobble stitch made with 4 unfinished double crochets in one stitch, then yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • FO: Fasten off.

Gauge

Gauge is not critical for this doll, but tight stitches are important. In amigurumi, visible stuffing can make the finished doll look loose. With a 2.75 mm hook and worsted weight yarn, 6 single crochet stitches should measure about 1 inch across.

If your stitches are too loose, use a smaller hook. If your doll feels stiff and hard to shape, use a slightly larger hook. Keep the same hook size for all main doll pieces so the proportions stay balanced.

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Important Construction Notes

  • The head and body are made separately, then sewn together.
  • The head has a long sheep muzzle shape, wider at the eye area and narrower toward the nose.
  • The woolly top is made with bobble stitches added as a separate cap.
  • The ears are long and slightly flattened with gray inner panels.
  • The dress is worked around the body, then the skirt and flower decorations are added on top.
  • The legs are sewn under the skirt so they hang down like the image.
  • The arms are attached low on the shoulder sides and point downward.
  • The accessories are optional, but they complete the garden look.

Head

Use light green yarn and the 2.75 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds. The head is shaped like a tall sheep face with a rounded forehead and a softly tapered muzzle. Stuff gradually while working, especially after R18.

  1. R1: MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  4. R4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
  5. R5: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
  6. R6: Sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
  7. R7: Sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
  8. R8: Sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
  9. R9 to R13: Sc in each st around. 48 sts.
  10. R14: Sc 10, dec, repeat around. 44 sts.
  11. R15 to R17: Sc in each st around. 44 sts.
  12. R18: Sc 9, dec, repeat around. 40 sts.
  13. R19 to R22: Sc in each st around. 40 sts.
  14. R23: Sc 8, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
  15. R24 to R26: Sc in each st around. 36 sts.
  16. R27: Sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
  17. R28: Sc in each st around. 30 sts.
  18. R29: Sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
  19. R30: Sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
  20. R31: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.

Finish stuffing the head firmly. The lower muzzle should be full but not round like a ball. Flatten the bottom slightly with your fingers so the head can sit neatly on the body.

FO, leaving a long tail for closing. Weave through the front loops of the remaining 12 stitches, pull closed, and secure. The closed end becomes the bottom of the head and will be hidden when attached to the body.

Eye Whites

Make 2 with white yarn and the 2.25 mm hook. The eyes are large and round, placed close together near the upper center of the face. They should look slightly oversized, matching the playful expression in the image.

  1. R1: MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  4. R4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
  5. R5: Sc in each st around. 24 sts.

FO, leaving a long sewing tail. Lightly stuff each eye white before sewing. Insert one black safety eye or bead into each white circle, slightly toward the inner lower area. This placement gives the sheep the same sweet, wide-eyed garden-doll expression.

Facial Placement

  • Place the eyes between R9 and R16 of the head.
  • Leave only 1 to 2 stitches between the two eye whites.
  • Sew each eye white firmly, adding a small amount of stuffing before closing the final stitches.
  • Use black embroidery thread to sew a long vertical nose line from about R21 to R27.
  • Add a soft V-shaped smile at the bottom of the vertical line.
  • Keep the mouth simple, clean, and centered.

Woolly Bobble Head Cap

Use light green yarn and the 2.75 mm hook. This textured cap creates the bumpy wool on top of the sheep’s head. It should sit like a rounded fluffy crown, covering the top area and reaching slightly above the eyes.

  1. R1: MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: Sc 1, BO in next st, repeat around. 12 sts.
  4. R4: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  5. R5: BO, sc 2, repeat around. 18 sts.
  6. R6: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
  7. R7: Sc 1, BO, sc 2, repeat around. 24 sts.
  8. R8: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
  9. R9: BO, sc 4, repeat around. 30 sts.
  10. R10: Sc in each st around. 30 sts.

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FO, leaving a long tail. Place the cap on top of the head so the front edge sits above the eyes and the sides sit near the ear positions. Sew around the outer edge using small stitches. Do not pull too tightly because the cap should look soft and fluffy.

Outer Ears

Make 2 with light green yarn and the 2.75 mm hook. The ears are long, floppy, and oval. They should extend outward from the head and angle slightly downward, just like the pictured sheep.

  1. R1: MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  4. R4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
  5. R5 to R8: Sc in each st around. 24 sts.
  6. R9: Sc 10, dec, repeat around. 22 sts.
  7. R10: Sc in each st around. 22 sts.
  8. R11: Sc 9, dec, repeat around. 20 sts.
  9. R12: Sc in each st around. 20 sts.
  10. R13: Sc 8, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
  11. R14: Sc in each st around. 18 sts.
  12. R15: Sc 7, dec, repeat around. 16 sts.
  13. R16: Sc in each st around. 16 sts.
  14. R17: Sc 6, dec, repeat around. 14 sts.
  15. R18: Sc in each st around. 14 sts.

Do not stuff the ears. Flatten each ear with the decreases centered along the lower edge. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Inner Ear Panels

Make 2 with gray yarn and the 2.25 mm hook. These panels sit inside the green ears and create the soft gray inner-ear detail visible in the image.

  1. R1: Ch 9.
  2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch. Work on opposite side of chain, sc 6, inc in last st. 18 sts.
  3. R3: Inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in last 2 sts. 24 sts.
  4. R4: Sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 30 sts.

FO, leaving a sewing tail. Sew one gray panel to the front of each green ear. Keep the gray panel centered and leave a narrow green border showing around the edge.

Body

Use light green yarn and the 2.75 mm hook. The body is round and softly pear-shaped. It should be wider at the lower belly to support the dress and narrower near the neck.

  1. R1: MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  4. R4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
  5. R5: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
  6. R6: Sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
  7. R7: Sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
  8. R8: Sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
  9. R9 to R15: Sc in each st around. 48 sts.
  10. R16: Sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
  11. R17 to R19: Sc in each st around. 42 sts.
  12. R20: Sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
  13. R21 to R23: Sc in each st around. 36 sts.
  14. R24: Sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
  15. R25 to R26: Sc in each st around. 30 sts.
  16. R27: Sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
  17. R28: Sc in each st around. 24 sts.

Stuff the body firmly, shaping the lower belly rounded and the upper body slightly narrower. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body.

Dress Bodice

The bodice is worked directly around the body before the head is attached. Use yellow, white, and dark green yarn. Hold the body upside down when needed so the stitches face neatly outward.

Join yellow yarn to a front loop around R18 of the body. Work in joined rounds, ending each round with a slip stitch to the first stitch. Chain 1 at the beginning of each single crochet round.

  1. R1: With yellow, sc around the body through the surface loops of R18, spacing 42 sc evenly. Join.
  2. R2: With yellow, sc in each st around. 42 sts.
  3. R3: Change to white, sc in each st around. 42 sts.
  4. R4: Change to yellow, sc in each st around. 42 sts.
  5. R5: Change to dark green, sc in each st around. 42 sts.
  6. R6: Change to white, sc in each st around. 42 sts.
  7. R7: Change to yellow, sc in each st around. 42 sts.

FO and weave in ends. The bodice should look striped with a garden dress effect. Keep the color changes at the back so the front stays clean.

Skirt Base

The skirt begins around the lower body and flares slightly outward. Use yellow yarn first, then build green and white details over it. The pictured skirt has yellow panels, green garden stems, white daisies, and a scalloped white hem.

Join yellow yarn around R10 of the body, using surface stitches around the widest part of the belly. Work in joined rounds.

  1. R1: Sc 48 evenly around the body. Join. 48 sts.
  2. R2: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc inc in next st, repeat around. Join. 72 sts.
  3. R3: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. 72 sts.
  4. R4: Change to white, ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 72 sts.
  5. R5: Change to dark green, ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 72 sts.
  6. R6: Change to yellow, ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. 72 sts.
  7. R7: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. 72 sts.
  8. R8: Change to dark green, ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 72 sts.
  9. R9: Change to white, ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 72 sts.

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FO and weave in ends. The skirt should sit over the lower body like a bright garden dress. It should be full enough to cover the top of the legs while still allowing the legs to hang down clearly.

White Scalloped Hem

Use white yarn and the 2.75 mm hook. Join to any stitch at the bottom edge of the skirt.

  1. R1: Ch 1, sc in first st, skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st. Repeat around the hem. Join with sl st.

FO and weave in ends. Adjust the scallops with your fingers so they sit evenly around the bottom of the dress. The white edge should look like soft lace.

Green Garden Stems on Skirt

Use dark green yarn and an embroidery needle. Work vertical stem lines from the green waistband area down toward the lower skirt. Add about 8 to 10 stems spaced around the front and sides.

  • Make each stem about 1 to 1.5 inches long.
  • Use straight embroidery stitches, not crochet stitches.
  • Angle a few stems slightly left or right to make the garden look natural.
  • Leave open spaces for large white daisies and small colorful flowers.

Leaves for Skirt

Make 10 to 14 small leaves with dark green yarn and the 2.25 mm hook. These leaves sit along the lower skirt and beside the embroidered stems.

  1. Ch 6.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc.
  3. Ch 1, sl st into the same last st to form a pointed tip.

FO, leaving a sewing tail. Sew the leaves in pairs near the flower stems. Place some leaves sideways and some upright so the skirt does not look too flat.

Large White Daisies for Skirt

Make 5 large daisies with white and yellow yarn. Use the 2.25 mm hook. The pictured dress has bold white daisies across the skirt front, so these flowers are important.

Yellow Center

  1. R1: With yellow, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.

FO yellow. Join white yarn to any stitch of R2.

White Petals

  1. R3: Ch 4, starting in second ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc, sl st into next center stitch. Repeat 12 times around.

FO, leaving a long sewing tail. Sew the daisies across the front skirt. Place three across the middle front, one toward the left side, and one toward the right side.

Small Colorful Flowers

Make 5 to 7 small flowers in pink, blue, yellow, and white. These small blooms match the tiny decorations on the bodice, hat, skirt, and bag.

  1. R1: MR, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st into ring. Repeat 5 times for 5 petals.
  2. Pull the ring tight and FO, leaving a sewing tail.
  3. Add a tiny yellow knot in the center if the flower is not yellow.

Sew one pink flower near the upper right bodice, one blue flower on the yellow stripe, and the rest around the lower skirt. Keep the placement playful and slightly uneven, like handmade garden appliques.

Arms

Make 2. Start with black yarn for the hooves, then change to light green for the arms. Use the 2.75 mm hook. The arms are long, narrow, and hang down beside the dress.

  1. R1: With black, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3 to R5: Sc in each st around. 12 sts.
  4. R6: Change to light green, BLO sc in each st around. 12 sts.
  5. R7 to R22: Sc in each st around. 12 sts.
  6. R23: Sc 4, dec, repeat around. 10 sts.
  7. R24: Sc in each st around. 10 sts.

Stuff the black hoof lightly and the arm very lightly. Flatten the top opening. Sc through both layers with 5 sc to close. FO, leaving a tail for sewing.

Legs

Make 2 with light green yarn and the 2.75 mm hook. The legs are slim and long, hanging below the skirt. The feet are larger and shaped to fit the green sandals.

  1. R1: MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3 to R20: Sc in each st around. 12 sts.
  4. R21: Sc 5, inc, repeat around. 14 sts.
  5. R22: Sc 6, inc, repeat around. 16 sts.
  6. R23: Sc 7, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  7. R24 to R27: Sc in each st around. 18 sts.
  8. R28: Sc 7, dec, repeat around. 16 sts.
  9. R29: Sc 6, dec, repeat around. 14 sts.
  10. R30: Sc 5, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.

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Stuff the lower foot firmly and the leg moderately. Shape the foot so it looks oval from the front. FO, leaving a long tail. Sew the top of each leg under the skirt, about 5 stitches apart.

Sandals

Make 2 sandal soles with beige yarn and green straps. Use the 2.25 mm hook. The sandals should wrap around the front of each foot and show a beige sole edge, like the image.

Beige Sole

  1. R1: Ch 9.
  2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch. Work on opposite side, sc 6, inc in last st. 18 sts.
  3. R3: Inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in last 2 sts. 24 sts.
  4. R4: Sc in each st around. 24 sts.

FO, leaving a tail. Sew one sole under each foot. Keep the beige edge visible around the bottom.

Green Toe Strap

  1. Ch 13 with dark green yarn.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc across. 12 sts.

FO, leaving two tails. Wrap the strap across the top front of the foot and sew both ends to the side edges of the sole. Add a short vertical black embroidery line on the front of each foot to create the split-hoof detail.

Ladybugs on Sandals

Make 2 tiny ladybugs with red and black yarn. Use the 2.25 mm hook.

  1. R1: With red, MR, 5 sc in ring. 5 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 10 sts.
  3. R3: Sc in each st around. 10 sts.

FO, leaving a tail. Use black thread to make a tiny head, center line, and two dots. Sew one ladybug to the outer front edge of each sandal.

Crossbody Bag

Use dark green yarn and the 2.25 mm hook. The bag is small, rectangular, and hangs across the body with a thin strap. It has yellow trim and a white daisy on the front.

Bag Body

  1. R1: Ch 11.
  2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 10. Ch 1, turn. 10 sts.
  3. R3 to R9: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. 10 sts.
  4. R10: Sc around all four edges, placing 2 sc in each corner. Join with sl st.

FO. Make a second identical rectangle. Hold both rectangles together and sc around three sides with dark green yarn, leaving the top open. Lightly stuff or insert a small folded yarn scrap to give the bag shape.

Bag Flap

  1. Join dark green yarn to the back top edge.
  2. R1: Sc 10 across. Ch 1, turn.
  3. R2: Sc 10 across. Ch 1, turn.
  4. R3: Dec, sc 6, dec. 8 sts.
  5. R4: Dec, sc 4, dec. 6 sts.

FO. Fold the flap over the front and tack it down lightly at the corners.

Yellow Bag Trim

Join yellow yarn to the lower front edge of the bag. Sl st across the bottom and up both side edges. FO and weave in ends. This creates the yellow garden-bag border visible in the image.

Bag Strap

  1. With dark green yarn, ch 55 to 65 depending on your doll size.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st across.

FO, leaving tails. Sew one end to each side of the bag. Place the strap across the doll from one shoulder to the opposite hip. Tack the strap at the shoulder and side of body so it stays in place.

Small Daisy for Bag

Make 1 small daisy with yellow and white yarn. Use the 2.25 mm hook.

  1. With yellow, MR, 6 sc in ring. Join.
  2. Change to white, ch 3, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, sl st into next yellow st. Repeat 6 times.

FO and sew the daisy to the lower right front of the bag. Add a tiny green leaf beside it if desired.

Straw Hat

Use beige or straw-colored yarn and the 2.75 mm hook. The hat sits beside the doll in the image, but you can also make it fit lightly on the head if you prefer. Keep the brim flat and wide.

Hat Crown

  1. R1: MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  4. R4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
  5. R5: BLO sc in each st around. 24 sts.
  6. R6 to R10: Sc in each st around. 24 sts.

Hat Brim

  1. R11: FLO sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
  2. R12: Sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
  3. R13: Sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
  4. R14: Sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
  5. R15: Sc in each st around. 48 sts.

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FO and weave in ends. Shape the brim flat with your fingers. Add a few small flowers and leaves around the brim, especially near the front left edge.

Flowers for Hat

Make 3 tiny flowers using pink, white, and yellow yarn. Use the same small flower method from the skirt section. Sew them to the hat brim in a small cluster. Add two green leaves beside the flowers.

Bee on the Woolly Head

The tiny bee sits on top of the sheep’s wool cap near one side. Use yellow, black, and white yarn with the 2.25 mm hook.

Bee Body

  1. R1: With yellow, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Sc in each st around. 6 sts.
  3. R3: Change to black, sc in each st around. 6 sts.
  4. R4: Change to yellow, sc in each st around. 6 sts.

FO and sew closed. Use black thread to add two small stripes if needed.

Bee Wings

  1. With white, ch 4.
  2. Sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in last ch.

Make 2 wings and sew them to the top sides of the bee. Sew the bee securely to the wool cap near one daisy.

Head Daisies

Make 3 small daisies for the top of the head. Use yellow centers and white petals. Sew one daisy near the left side of the wool cap, one near the right side, and one close to the bee. Keep them slightly raised so they look like small garden flowers tucked into the wool.

Potted Succulent

The small potted succulent is an accessory placed beside the doll. Use terracotta yarn for the pot, dark green and light green yarn for the succulent, and the 2.25 mm hook.

Flower Pot

  1. R1: With terracotta, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
  4. R4: BLO sc in each st around. 18 sts.
  5. R5 to R8: Sc in each st around. 18 sts.
  6. R9: FLO sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
  7. R10: Sc in each st around. 24 sts.

FO and weave in ends. Stuff the pot lightly. Cut a small circle of dark green yarn or crochet a flat disk to close the top.

Soil Disk

  1. R1: With dark brown or dark green, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sts.
  2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.

FO, leaving a tail. Sew the disk to the top of the pot.

Succulent Leaves

Make 12 small leaves in mixed greens.

  1. Ch 5.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc, hdc.
  3. Ch 1, sl st into the last stitch to sharpen the leaf tip.

Sew the leaves in layers on top of the pot. Start with 6 leaves around the outside, then 4 smaller leaves inside, then 2 upright leaves in the center.

Mini Garden Trowel

The little trowel sits beside the pot in the image. It has a beige handle and gray metal blade. Use the 2.25 mm hook.

Handle

  1. With beige yarn, MR, 5 sc in ring. 5 sts.
  2. R2 to R11: Sc in each st around. 5 sts.

Stuff lightly if possible, or leave unstuffed for a slim handle. FO and close the end.

Blade

  1. With gray yarn, ch 6.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc. Ch 1, turn.
  3. R2: Sc 5 across. Ch 1, turn.
  4. R3: Dec, sc 1, dec. 3 sts.
  5. R4: Sc 3 together. 1 st.

FO, leaving a tail. Sew the wide end of the blade to the beige handle. Add a few stitches through the join to make it sturdy.

Neckline Trim

Use white yarn and the 2.25 mm hook. After sewing the head to the body, add a small white collar at the base of the head to match the dress neckline.

  1. Join white yarn around the neck seam.
  2. Ch 1, sc evenly around the neck, making about 30 to 36 sc.
  3. Join with sl st.
  4. Ch 1, sc, ch 2, sc in next st, repeat around for a tiny picot-like edge.

FO and weave in ends. The collar should sit neatly between the green head and striped bodice.

Assembly Order

  1. Sew the eye whites to the head between R9 and R16.
  2. Embroider the black vertical nose line and V-shaped smile.
  3. Sew the woolly bobble cap to the top of the head.
  4. Sew the gray inner panels onto the green ears.
  5. Sew the ears to the sides of the head, slightly behind the eyes.
  6. Sew the head firmly to the body.
  7. Add the white neckline trim around the neck seam.
  8. Sew the legs under the skirt so they hang evenly.
  9. Sew the arms to the sides of the upper body.
  10. Add sandals and ladybugs to the feet.
  11. Sew daisies, leaves, and small flowers to the skirt and bodice.
  12. Add the crossbody bag and secure the strap.
  13. Place or sew the straw hat beside the doll or lightly onto the head.
  14. Make and place the potted succulent and trowel as display accessories.

Detailed Placement Guide

The ears should sit slightly outward from the head, not straight down. Pin them first and check the face from the front. The inner gray panels should face forward. Sew through both the ear base and the head several times so the ears do not droop too far.

The arms should be attached just below the shoulder line, around the upper dress area. They should hang straight down and end near the lower skirt. The black hooves should be visible below the sleeves, giving the doll the same handmade farm-garden style as the image.

The legs should be sewn under the skirt, close enough together to look natural but not touching. The sandals should face forward. Before sewing permanently, sit the doll on a flat table and check that both legs hang at the same height.

The flowers on the skirt should not be perfectly symmetrical. Place the large daisies across the front first, then fill the empty spaces with leaves, small flowers, and green stems. This creates the busy garden look without making the dress feel crowded.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all pieces are attached, check the face carefully. The eyes should be close together and slightly raised from the surface. The mouth should be centered below the eyes, with the vertical black line running neatly down the muzzle and the V shape forming a gentle smile.

Use matching yarn tails to hide sewing joins. If the head tilts too much, add extra stitches around the back of the neck. If the ears feel loose, sew a second line along the ear base. Small corrections at this stage make the doll look polished.

Add optional blush very lightly below the eyes. Do not use too much color. The sheep in the image has a clean, gentle face, so subtle shading works best.

Care Notes

  • Spot clean the doll with a damp cloth and mild soap.
  • Do not machine wash if safety eyes, beads, or glued details are used.
  • Let the doll air dry fully before storing.
  • Keep away from pets if small accessories are attached.
  • If made for a young child, replace beads and safety eyes with embroidered details.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • The head is tall, rounded, and sheep-like with a tapered muzzle.
  • The wool cap has visible bobble texture.
  • The eyes are large, white, round, and close together.
  • The ears are long, floppy, green outside, and gray inside.
  • The dress has yellow, white, and green stripes.
  • The skirt has large daisies, stems, leaves, and a white scalloped hem.
  • The arms are slim with black hooves.
  • The legs hang below the skirt and have green sandals.
  • Each sandal has a tiny red ladybug.
  • The crossbody bag has a strap, yellow trim, and a daisy.
  • The hat, succulent pot, and trowel are finished as garden accessories.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the doll’s shape, store it sitting upright or lying flat in a clean dry box. Avoid crushing the ears, flowers, and hat brim. If the skirt becomes flattened, gently reshape the scalloped edge with your fingers.

Keep the doll out of strong sunlight for long periods, especially if using cotton yarn in bright yellow, green, red, or pink. Sunlight can fade yarn over time. For display, choose a shaded shelf or a protected craft table.

For dust removal, use a soft makeup brush or small clean paintbrush. Brush around the bobble wool, daisies, and tiny accessories carefully. Do not pull on the flowers or bag strap because small sewn pieces can loosen with rough handling.

If any accessory loosens, reattach it with matching yarn and a yarn needle. Knot securely, then hide the yarn tail inside the doll or accessory. This simple maintenance keeps the Daisy Sheep Garden Doll bright, sturdy, and ready for display.

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