Crochet Tutorial: Duckling Rainboot Garden Nook – Free Crochet Pattern.

This cheerful crochet garden nook features a soft yellow duckling wearing a mint green coat, orange feet, and a little orange bill. The scene includes a brick corner room, a green door, a blue raincoat, yellow rainboot planters, potted herbs, shelves, a table, chair, vegetable basket, trellis, tiny tree, watering cans, tiled floor, and a small flower bed.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

Garden nook base: about 12 in wide x 10 in deep.
Back wall height: about 9 in.
Side wall depth: about 8 in.
Duckling doll: about 4.75 in tall.
Yellow rainboot planter: about 2.75 in tall.
Work style: amigurumi, flat crochet panels, surface crochet, and small sewn details.

Skill Level

Advanced beginner to intermediate. The duckling is worked mostly in continuous rounds. The room panels are worked flat and strengthened with plastic canvas or cardboard. The tiny accessories use simple stitches, but they require neat sewing and careful shaping.

Materials

Worsted weight cotton or cotton blend yarn in cream, brick red, warm beige, mint green, pale green, yellow, soft yellow, orange, sky blue, brown, dark brown, gray, white, black, pink, red, purple, leafy green, carrot orange, radish pink, and cucumber green.
2.75 mm crochet hook for firm amigurumi pieces.
3.25 mm crochet hook for wall panels, floor panels, table, shelves, and larger flat pieces.
6 mm black safety eyes or black embroidery thread.
Fiberfill stuffing.
Plastic canvas, foam board, or stiff felt for the base and walls.
Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors, pins, and sewing thread for tiny pieces if preferred.
Small buttons for the duckling coat and blue raincoat, or crochet small button dots.
Optional: fabric glue for invisible support on wall bricks and tiny leaves.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
dec: single crochet 2 stitches together
BLO: back loop only
FLO: front loop only
FO: fasten off
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
st or sts: stitch or stitches
R: round or row

Gauge

Gauge is not critical, but firm stitches are important. With the 2.75 mm hook, 6 sc x 6 rounds should measure about 1 in square. With the 3.25 mm hook, 5 sc x 5 rows should measure about 1 in square. Keep the fabric tight so stuffing and inserts do not show.

Important Construction Notes

Work amigurumi pieces in continuous rounds unless the pattern says to join.
Use the same yarn weight throughout so the accessories stay proportional.
Stuff the duckling head firmly, the body medium-firm, and the wings lightly.
The brick walls need stiff inserts. Crochet covers first, insert support, then seam the edges.
All miniature objects are sewn on after the room is assembled, so you can copy the placement shown in the image.

Color Layout Guide

The scene has a warm indoor garden feeling. Use cream yarn for mortar lines, brick red for raised bricks, mint green for the door and duckling coat, yellow for the rainboots, soft yellow for the duckling, orange for the bill and feet, sky blue for the hanging raincoat, and natural beige for the furniture.

Part 1: Tiled Garden Nook Base

Base Panel

The base is a flat rectangle with a cream border and a mint checker-tile floor. It supports the duckling, boot planter, table, chair, and garden bed. Work tightly so the floor stays smooth.

With cream yarn and 3.25 mm hook, ch 51.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 50 sc.
Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 50 sc.
Row 5: Change to mint green. Ch 1, sc 10, change to cream, sc 10, change to mint, sc 10, change to cream, sc 10, change to mint, sc 10. Turn.
Rows 6-10: Repeat Row 5, carrying unused yarn loosely along the WS.
Rows 11-16: Start with cream 10 sc, mint 10 sc, cream 10 sc, mint 10 sc, cream 10 sc. Turn each row.
Rows 17-22: Repeat Rows 5-10.
Rows 23-28: Repeat Rows 11-16.
Rows 29-34: Repeat Rows 5-10.
Rows 35-40: Repeat Rows 11-16.
Rows 41-44: Change to cream. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 50 sc.

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Base Border

Do not fasten off. Ch 1, rotate the panel.
Work 44 sc evenly down the side, 3 sc in the corner, 50 sc across the starting edge, 3 sc in the corner, 44 sc up the next side, 3 sc in the corner, 50 sc across the top, 3 sc in the last corner.
Join with sl st to first sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc around, working 3 sc in each corner center stitch. Join and FO.

Base Insert

Cut plastic canvas or foam board to 11.75 in x 9.5 in.
Place it under the crocheted base.
Make a second plain cream rectangle using Rows 1-44 if you want a fully covered underside.
Whipstitch the upper base and underside together around the insert.

Part 2: Brick Back Wall

Back Wall Main Panel

The back wall is the wide brick wall behind the shelves and small tree. It should stand upright at a right angle to the base. The brick pattern is created with raised red brick patches over a cream background.

With cream yarn and 3.25 mm hook, ch 61.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 60 sc.
Rows 2-46: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 60 sc.
FO, leaving a long tail for seaming if this is the outer panel.
Make a second identical cream panel for the wall back.

Raised Brick Patches

Make small brick rectangles in brick red. Sew them in staggered rows on the RS of one cream panel, leaving cream spaces as mortar. The image shows rounded, soft bricks with cream gaps between them.

Small brick: Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 4 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc across. FO. Make 42.
Medium brick: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 6 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc across. FO. Make 34.
Long brick: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 8 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc across. FO. Make 18.

Back Wall Brick Placement

Start 2 rows above the bottom edge.
Row A: Sew one medium brick, one long brick, one medium brick, one small brick, one long brick, one medium brick across the wall.
Row B: Place bricks offset by half a brick width. Use small bricks near both edges, with medium and long bricks across the center.
Repeat Rows A and B until the wall is filled, leaving a cream border of 2 stitches on every side.
Leave open spaces where the shelf and tree will cover the wall. This keeps the wall from becoming bulky.

Back Wall Assembly

Cut a stiff insert about 11.5 in wide x 8.75 in tall.
Place the insert between the plain cream wall back and the decorated brick front.
Sc or whipstitch through both layers around the outer edge with cream yarn.
At the bottom edge, sew the wall to the back edge of the base through both layers, keeping the wall upright.

Part 3: Left Brick Side Wall

Side Wall Main Panel

The side wall is shorter in width than the back wall and forms the left corner. It has the green door, blue raincoat, yellow boots, watering cans, and flower-filled boot planter.

With cream yarn and 3.25 mm hook, ch 43.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 42 sc.
Rows 2-46: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 42 sc.
FO. Make a second identical panel for the outside/back of the side wall.

Side Wall Bricks

Make 28 small bricks, 24 medium bricks, and 10 long bricks using the same brick instructions from the back wall.
Sew the bricks in staggered rows.
Leave a rectangular open space for the door, about 15 stitches wide and 22 rows tall, slightly left of center.
Leave extra space to the far left for the hanging blue raincoat.

Side Wall Assembly

Cut stiff insert about 8 in wide x 8.75 in tall.
Place insert between the two side wall panels.
Whipstitch or sc around with cream yarn.
Sew the side wall to the left edge of the base.
Sew the vertical corner edge to the back wall with cream yarn. Make several passes so the corner stands firm.

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Part 4: Mint Green Door

Door Panel

The door is mint green with a cream frame, a small window opening, and a tiny round knob. It sits on the left wall and gives the nook a cozy mudroom look.

With mint green yarn and 3.25 mm hook, ch 17.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 16 sc.
Rows 2-28: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 16 sc.
FO.

Door Window Opening

With cream yarn, ch 22.
Sl st into first ch to form a rectangle frame by shaping with stitches as you sew.
Pin the frame centered on the upper door, about 7 rows down from the top.
Sew the frame into a rectangle about 8 stitches wide x 10 rows tall.
Leave the center empty to show the cream wall behind, matching the open window look in the image.

Door Border and Knob

Join cream yarn at a lower corner of the door.
Sc evenly around the door, working 3 sc in each corner. Join and FO.
With brown yarn, make a knob: 6 sc in magic ring, join, FO.
Sew the knob on the right side of the door, slightly below the window.
Sew the door to the left wall, leaving the top and bottom flat and vertical.

Part 5: Duckling Head

The duckling has a round soft yellow head, small black eyes, blush cheeks, and a short orange bill. The head is slightly larger than the body for a cute amigurumi proportion.

With soft yellow yarn and 2.75 mm hook, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc in ring. 6
R2: Inc around. 12
R3: Sc 1, inc around. 18
R4: Sc 2, inc around. 24
R5: Sc 3, inc around. 30
R6: Sc 4, inc around. 36
R7: Sc 5, inc around. 42
R8-R14: Sc around. 42
R15: Sc 5, dec around. 36
R16: Sc 4, dec around. 30
R17: Sc 3, dec around. 24

Insert safety eyes between R11 and R12, about 8 stitches apart. The face should look forward and slightly downward, as if the duckling is watering the plant. Begin stuffing the head firmly, shaping it round.

R18: Sc 2, dec around. 18
R19: Sc 1, dec around. 12
Finish stuffing.
R20: Dec around. 6
FO, close the hole, and weave in the tail.

Part 6: Duckling Bill

The bill is small, rounded, and orange. It points forward from the center of the face and sits just below the eyes.

With orange yarn and 2.75 mm hook, ch 6.
R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side of chain: sc 3, inc in last st. 12
R2: Sc 2, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 2. 15
R3: Sc around. 15
R4: Sc 3, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 3. 13
FO, leaving a long tail.
Lightly stuff the bill, flatten the back edge, and sew it between the eyes over R12-R14 of the head.

Part 7: Duckling Body

The body is mostly hidden under the mint coat, but it gives the doll its rounded seated-standing shape. Use soft yellow yarn. The lower body is slightly oval so the coat sits nicely.

With soft yellow yarn and 2.75 mm hook, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc in ring. 6
R2: Inc around. 12
R3: Sc 1, inc around. 18
R4: Sc 2, inc around. 24
R5: Sc 3, inc around. 30
R6-R11: Sc around. 30
R12: Sc 3, dec around. 24
R13-R14: Sc around. 24
R15: Sc 2, dec around. 18
R16: Sc around. 18
Stuff medium-firm.
R17: Sc 1, dec around. 12
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing the head.

Part 8: Duckling Wings

Make 2 Wings

The wings are pale yellow and peek from the mint coat sleeves. They are small oval pieces with light stuffing.

With soft yellow yarn and 2.75 mm hook, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc in ring. 6
R2: Sc 1, inc around. 9
R3: Sc 2, inc around. 12
R4-R7: Sc around. 12
R8: Sc 2, dec around. 9
Do not overstuff. Flatten the opening.
R9: Sc through both layers across. 4 sc.
FO, leaving a long tail.

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Part 9: Duckling Feet

Make 2 Orange Feet

The feet are orange and flat at the bottom so the duckling can stand in the garden nook. Each foot has a rounded front.

With orange yarn and 2.75 mm hook, ch 6.
R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3, 4 sc in last ch. Work on other side: sc 3, 3 sc in last st. 14
R2: Sc 4, inc in next 4 sts, sc 4, inc in next 2 sts. 20
R3: BLO sc around. 20
R4: Sc 5, dec 3 times, sc 9. 17
R5: Sc 4, dec 2 times, sc 9. 15
Lightly stuff the toe area only.
R6: Sc 3, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 3. 13
Flatten back edge and sc through both layers across. FO.

Part 10: Mint Green Coat

The coat is the most visible clothing piece on the duckling. It is mint green, slightly flared at the bottom, with short sleeves, a rounded collar, and two tiny front buttons.

Coat Body

With mint green yarn and 2.75 mm hook, ch 31.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 30 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc 4, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 2. Turn. 34 sc.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 34 sc.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc 5, ch 5, skip 6, sc 12, ch 5, skip 6, sc 5. Turn. 32 sts including chains.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc across, working 5 sc into each armhole chain. Turn. 32 sc.
Rows 6-8: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 32 sc.
Row 9: Ch 1, sc 3, inc, repeat across to last 4 sts, sc 4. Turn. 39 sc.
Rows 10-13: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 39 sc.
Row 14: Ch 1, sc across. FO.

Coat Border

Join mint yarn at the lower front corner.
Sc evenly up the front, around the neckline, down the other front, and across the bottom.
At the neckline corners, work 2 sc to keep them rounded.
FO and weave in ends.

Coat Sleeves

Join mint yarn at the bottom of one armhole.
R1: Work 14 sc evenly around the armhole. Join. 14
R2-R4: Ch 1, sc around. Join. 14
R5: Ch 1, sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec. Join. 12
FO. Repeat for second sleeve.

Coat Buttons

With tan yarn, make 2 tiny buttons: 5 sc in magic ring, join, FO.
Sew them down the center front of the coat.
Place one button near the chest and one near the belly, matching the image.

Part 11: Assembling the Duckling

Sew the head to the body using the long body tail. Keep the face centered.
Slide the coat around the body and sew the front edges lightly closed under the buttons.
Sew the wings through the coat sleeves so pale yellow wing tips show.
Sew the feet under the body, angled slightly outward.
Embroider small pink blush stitches beside the bill.

Part 12: Gray Watering Can for Duckling

The duckling holds a small gray watering can in front of its coat. Make it light, hollow-looking, and slightly rounded.

Watering Can Body

With gray yarn and 2.75 mm hook, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc in ring. 6
R2: Inc around. 12
R3: Sc 1, inc around. 18
R4-R7: Sc around. 18
R8: Sc 1, dec around. 12
Stuff lightly.
R9: BLO sc around. 12
FO, leaving top slightly open.

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Spout

With gray yarn, ch 7.
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 6 sc.
Rows 2-3: Ch 1, sc across. FO.
Roll into a narrow tube and sew the long edge closed.
Sew to the side of the can, angled downward toward the boot planter.

Handle

With gray yarn, ch 12.
Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across.
Sew both ends to the opposite side of the can in a curved handle shape.

Part 13: Yellow Rainboot Planters

The image shows yellow rainboots used as planters: a pair near the left wall filled with flowers and one larger boot at the front right holding a leafy plant. Make three boots total.

Boot Foot

Make this section for each boot.

With yellow yarn and 2.75 mm hook, ch 8.
R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, 4 sc in last ch. Work on other side: sc 5, 3 sc in last st. 18
R2: Sc 6, inc in next 4 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. 24
R3: BLO sc around. 24
R4: Sc 7, dec 4 times, sc 9. 20
R5: Sc 6, dec 3 times, sc 8. 17
R6: Sc 5, dec 2 times, sc 8. 15

Boot Leg

R7: Sc around. 15
R8: Sc 4, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 4. 17
R9-R16: Sc around. 17
R17: FLO sc around for top rim. 17
R18: Sc around. FO.

Boot Sole and Rim Detail

Join dark brown yarn to the unused front loops of R3.
Sl st around the boot sole and FO.
With yellow yarn, surface sl st around the top rim to make it thicker.
Stuff the foot and lower boot firmly. Leave the top hollow for soil and plants.

Dark Soil Insert for Each Boot

With dark brown yarn, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc in ring. 6
R2: Inc around. 12
R3: Sc 1, inc around. 18
FO. Sew or glue inside the boot opening.

Part 14: Flowers for Left Boot Planters

Tiny Flower Stem

With green yarn, ch 7.
Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across.
FO, leaving tails for sewing into soil.
Make 12 stems in different heights by chaining 5, 6, 7, or 8.

Five-Petal Flower

With pink, red, purple, white, or yellow yarn, make a magic ring.
Into ring: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st. Repeat 5 times for 5 petals.
Pull ring tight and FO.
Sew one flower to the top of each stem.

Leaf Sprig

With green yarn, ch 5.
Sl st in 2nd ch, sc, hdc, sl st in last ch.
FO and sew near flowers.
Make 8 small leaves.

Part 15: Front Boot Plant with Basil Leaves

The front right yellow boot has a larger green plant with rounded leaves. Place it on a dark brown garden patch with a little pink flower nearby.

Large Leaves

With leafy green yarn, ch 6.
Sl st in 2nd ch, sc, hdc, dc, 5 dc in last ch.
Work on other side of chain: dc, hdc, sc, sl st.
FO, leaving a sewing tail.
Make 10 leaves.

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Small Leaves

With leafy green yarn, ch 4.
Sl st in 2nd ch, sc, 3 hdc in last ch.
Work on other side: sc, sl st.
FO. Make 8 leaves.

Plant Center

With green yarn, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc in ring. Join and FO.
Sew leaves around this center in two layers.
Sew the finished plant onto the soil insert inside the front boot.

Part 16: Dark Brown Garden Patch and Pink Flower

Garden Patch

With dark brown yarn and 3.25 mm hook, ch 15.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 14 sc.
Rows 2-11: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 14 sc.
FO. Sew the patch onto the front right of the base.

Small Pink Flower

Stem: With green yarn, ch 10, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across. FO.
Flower: With pink yarn, make magic ring. Repeat 5 times: ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, sl st into ring.
Center: With yellow yarn, sew 3 small stitches in the flower center.
Leaves: With green yarn, ch 5, sl st, sc, hdc, sl st. Make 2.
Sew the flower stem to the dark patch beside the front boot.

Part 17: Blue Raincoat on the Wall

The blue raincoat hangs on the left wall beside the door. It has a hood, sleeves, and small yellow buttons. It should look like a tiny jacket hanging open.

Raincoat Body

With sky blue yarn and 2.75 mm hook, ch 25.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 24 sc.
Rows 2-6: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 24 sc.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc 5, ch 5, skip 5, sc 4, ch 5, skip 5, sc 5. Turn.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc across, working 5 sc in each chain space. Turn. 24 sc.
Rows 9-14: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 24 sc.
Row 15: Ch 1, sc 2, inc, repeat across. Turn. 32 sc.
Rows 16-18: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 32 sc.
FO.

Raincoat Hood

With sky blue yarn, ch 16.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 15 sc.
Rows 2-7: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 15 sc.
Fold the rectangle in half and seam the top/back edge to form a hood.
Sew the hood to the top of the coat body.

Raincoat Sleeves and Buttons

Join blue yarn to one armhole. Work 12 sc around. Join.
Rounds 2-5: Ch 1, sc around. Join. FO.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
With yellow yarn, make 3 small button knots down the coat front.
Sew the coat flat to the left wall, with the hood opening facing forward.

Part 18: Small Watering Cans Near the Door

There are small watering cans on the floor near the left wall, one gray and one blue. Make them smaller than the duckling’s watering can.

Mini Watering Can Body

With gray or blue yarn, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc in ring. 6
R2: Inc around. 12
R3-R5: Sc around. 12
R6: Sc 1, dec around. 8
Stuff lightly and FO.

Mini Spout and Handle

Spout: Ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across. Sew to one side.
Handle: Ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across. Sew to opposite side in a curve.
Make one gray mini can and one blue mini can.

Part 19: Wooden Table

The table sits on the right side. It is beige, rectangular, and holds a woven basket of vegetables, a folded floral cloth, and garden items. Use firm crochet and a stiff insert if needed.

Tabletop

With warm beige yarn and 3.25 mm hook, ch 25.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 24 sc.
Rows 2-13: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 24 sc.
FO. Make a second tabletop panel.
Cut plastic canvas to fit between the two panels.
Sc or whipstitch panels together around the insert.

Table Legs

With beige yarn and 2.75 mm hook, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc in ring. 6
R2-R12: Sc around. 6
FO. Make 4 legs.
Insert a small pipe cleaner or doubled yarn strand into each leg if you want extra strength.
Sew legs under the tabletop at each corner.

Front Table Brace

With beige yarn, ch 20.
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. FO.
Sew across the front legs, about halfway down, to match the little support line in the image.

Part 20: Small Chair

The chair is tucked under the table. It has a square seat, two front legs, and a simple slatted back.

Chair Seat

With beige yarn, ch 12.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 11 sc.
Rows 2-9: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 11 sc.
FO. Make a second piece and seam around a small insert if desired.

Chair Legs

With beige yarn, make 4 legs: magic ring, 5 sc in ring, then sc around for 7 rounds. FO.
Sew the legs under the chair seat.

Chair Back

With beige yarn, ch 12.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 11 sc.
Rows 2-8: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 11 sc.
FO.
Surface stitch two vertical darker beige lines on the back to create slats.
Sew the back to one edge of the chair seat.

Part 21: Vegetable Basket

Basket Base and Sides

With natural beige yarn and 2.75 mm hook, ch 14.
R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 11, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side: sc 11, inc in last st. 28
R2: Sc 12, inc 3 times, sc 12, inc 1 time. 32
R3: BLO sc around. 32
R4-R7: Sc around. 32
R8: Sl st around for a firm rim. FO.

Basket Handles

Side handle 1: Join beige yarn to one short side, ch 6, skip 3 sts, sl st back to basket.
Side handle 2: Repeat on the opposite short side.
Weave a strand of slightly darker beige in and out around the basket sides to create a woven look.

Vegetables

Carrots: With orange yarn, magic ring 4 sc, then sc around for 5 rounds, dec to close. Add 3 green chain leaves. Make 3.
Radishes: With pink yarn, magic ring 6 sc, R2 inc around, R3 sc around, R4 dec around. Add green tops. Make 2.
Lettuce balls: With green yarn, magic ring 6 sc, R2 inc around, R3 sc around, R4 dec around. Sew small loose green loops around each ball. Make 3.
Cucumbers: With dark green yarn, ch 5, sc in 2nd ch and across, work around both sides for 2 rounds. Make 2.

Part 22: Folded Floral Cloth on the Table

The small folded cloth has a pale background with tiny pink and green flower details. It sits beside the vegetable basket.

With white or pale cream yarn and 2.75 mm hook, ch 13.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 12 sc.
Rows 2-8: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 12 sc.
FO.
With pink yarn, embroider five tiny flower dots across the cloth.
With green yarn, add tiny straight stitches for leaves.
Fold one corner slightly and tack it in place before sewing the cloth onto the table.

Part 23: Wall Shelves

The right wall has two beige shelves with terracotta pots and a small blue storage tub underneath. The shelves should be attached firmly to the brick wall.

Long Shelf Boards

With beige yarn and 3.25 mm hook, ch 29.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 28 sc.
Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 28 sc.
FO. Make 2 shelf boards.
For a thicker board, make 2 matching strips for each shelf and whipstitch together.

Shelf Brackets

With beige yarn, ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. FO.
Make 4 bracket strips.
Sew 2 brackets under each shelf, angled slightly downward to the wall.
Sew the shelves to the back wall, one above the other on the right side.

Part 24: Terracotta Pots

Make 8 Small Pots

The shelves hold multiple small terracotta pots. Some are on the shelves, some are on the floor, and some sit on the table area.

With terracotta yarn and 2.75 mm hook, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc in ring. 6
R2: Inc around. 12
R3: BLO sc around. 12
R4: Sc 3, inc around. 15
R5-R7: Sc around. 15
R8: FLO sc around to make rim. 15
FO.

Pot Soil

With dark brown yarn, magic ring 6 sc.
R2: Inc around. 12
FO and sew into pot opening.
Repeat for each pot.

Seedlings for Pots

Stem: With green yarn, ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch and across.
Leaves: Ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch, sc in next ch, sl st back to stem.
Make 2 leaves per seedling.
Sew 1 seedling into each pot.

Part 25: Blue Tub Under the Shelf

With pale blue yarn and 2.75 mm hook, ch 14.
R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 11, 3 sc in last ch, sc 11 on other side, inc. 28
R2: BLO sc around. 28
R3-R7: Sc around. 28
R8: Sl st around. FO.
Sew the tub to the floor under the lower shelf.

Part 26: Trellis with Climbing Flowers

The trellis stands in the corner between the door and the back wall. It is brown with green vines and colorful flowers climbing upward.

Trellis Frame

Vertical strips: With brown yarn, ch 26, sc in 2nd ch and across. FO. Make 2.
Horizontal strips: With brown yarn, ch 12, sc in 2nd ch and across. FO. Make 5.
Lay the vertical strips parallel and sew the horizontal strips across them like a ladder.
Sew the trellis to the brick corner, leaning slightly as shown.

Climbing Vine

With green yarn, ch 45.
Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across.
Pin the vine in a gentle zigzag over the trellis.
Sew it in place with small hidden stitches.

Trellis Flowers

Make 8 tiny flowers using pink, yellow, red, and purple yarn.
For each flower: magic ring, repeat 5 times: ch 2, sc into ring.
Pull tight, FO, and sew along the vine.

Part 27: Small Potted Tree

The little tree sits near the back wall. It has a brown trunk, round green leaves, and small tan fruits. It is planted in a round beige pot.

Tree Pot

With beige yarn and 2.75 mm hook, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc in ring. 6
R2: Inc around. 12
R3: Sc 1, inc around. 18
R4: BLO sc around. 18
R5: Sc 2, inc around. 24
R6-R9: Sc around. 24
R10: FLO sc around for rim. 24
FO.

Tree Trunk

With dark brown yarn, make a magic ring.
R1: 6 sc in ring. 6
R2: Sc 1, inc around. 9
R3-R16: Sc around. 9
Stuff firmly as you go.
FO, leaving a tail for sewing.
Sew the trunk into the pot center.

Tree Leaves

Large leaf: With green yarn, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch, sc, hdc, 4 hdc in last ch, work back with hdc, sc, sl st. Make 18.
Small leaf: With green yarn, ch 4, sl st, sc, 3 hdc in last ch, work back with sc, sl st. Make 12.
Sew leaves around the top of the trunk in a rounded canopy.

Tree Fruits

With tan yarn, make a magic ring.
R1: 5 sc in ring. 5
R2: Sc around. 5
FO and close into a tiny ball.
Make 7 fruits and sew them among the leaves.

Part 28: Small Seedling Tray

The lower shelf and floor area include shallow trays of tiny sprouts. Make two brown trays with green seedlings.

Tray

With brown yarn and 2.75 mm hook, ch 15.
R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 12, 3 sc in last ch, sc 12 on other side, inc. 30
R2: BLO sc around. 30
R3: Sc around. 30
FO.

Tray Soil

With dark brown yarn, ch 13.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 12
Rows 2-3: Ch 1, sc across. Turn.
FO and sew inside tray.

Sprouts

For each sprout, ch 4 with green yarn.
Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch, sc in next ch, sl st into base.
Make 10 sprouts for each tray and sew into soil.

Part 29: Wall Hooks

With brown yarn, ch 6.
Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across.
Fold into a small U shape and sew near the blue raincoat.
Make one hook for the coat and one small hook near the door if desired.

Part 30: Placement Guide

Before final sewing, place every piece inside the garden nook. The duckling should stand slightly left of center, holding the watering can toward the front boot planter. The table belongs on the right. The shelves go behind the table. The door and raincoat stay on the left wall.

Left wall: green door centered, blue raincoat to the far left, pair of yellow boot planters below.
Back wall corner: trellis behind the duckling, with climbing flowers.
Back wall center: potted tree and seedling tray.
Back wall right: two shelves with terracotta pots and blue tub below.
Right floor: beige table, chair, vegetable basket, folded cloth, and a few pots.
Front right: dark soil patch, yellow boot planter, basil leaves, and pink flower.

Part 31: Sewing the Room Details

Sew the door to the left wall first so it sits flat.
Sew the raincoat beside the door, keeping the hood rounded.
Sew the pair of yellow boot planters at the bottom left, angled slightly outward.
Sew the trellis in the back-left corner.
Sew the shelves to the right side of the back wall.
Sew the potted tree near the middle of the back wall.
Sew the seedling trays below and near the shelves.
Sew the table and chair to the right floor area.
Sew the vegetable basket and folded cloth onto the tabletop.
Sew the dark garden patch and front boot planter to the front right of the base.
Sew the duckling last, positioning the watering can spout toward the boot plant.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the duckling’s face before securing it permanently. The eyes should be even, the orange bill should sit centered, and the pink cheek stitches should be soft and small. Sew the head firmly to the body so it does not wobble.

Attach the gray watering can to the duckling’s wings with several hidden stitches. One wing should touch the handle and the other should touch the side of the can. This creates the sweet watering pose shown in the image.

After every item is placed, use cream yarn to make a final neat whipstitch along the bottom where the walls meet the base. This strengthens the corner room and helps the miniature display keep its square shape.

Care Notes

Spot clean only with cool water and mild soap.
Do not machine wash because the walls contain stiff inserts.
Do not soak the piece, especially if cardboard or glue was used.
Let the scene air dry completely on a towel.
Keep away from heavy moisture and direct sunlight to protect the colors.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

The base is flat and the wall corner stands at a clean right angle.
The brick rows are staggered and evenly spaced.
The green door has a cream border, open window, and brown knob.
The blue raincoat has a hood, sleeves, and yellow buttons.
The duckling has a round head, orange bill, mint coat, wings, feet, and watering can.
The yellow rainboots are hollow at the top and filled with soil, flowers, or leaves.
The table, chair, shelves, baskets, pots, trellis, and tree are securely sewn.
Loose yarn ends are hidden inside the work.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a soft dry brush to remove dust from the brick wall, vegetables, leaves, and tiny flowers. Brush gently from top to bottom so small stitched details do not pull loose.

For small stains, dampen a white cloth with cool water and press lightly on the area. Do not rub hard. Let the piece dry naturally before returning it to a shelf or display cabinet.

Store the garden nook upright in a clean box when not displayed. Place tissue paper around the duckling, tree, and trellis so they do not bend. Avoid stacking heavy items on top of the crochet room.

If a leaf, flower, or pot loosens over time, sew it back with matching yarn and a small yarn needle. Avoid pulling long threads across open spaces, because they can show on the front of the miniature scene.