Crochet Tutorial: Garden Mouse Daisy Dress Doll – Free Crochet Pattern.

This cheerful garden mouse doll is designed with a round beige head, oversized pink-lined ears, a red pointed garden hood, a bright blue daisy dress with white stripes, a matching crossbody flower bag, blue sandals, and tiny garden accessories. The finished scene also includes a yellow sunhat, a small watering can, and a potted flower to match the sweet handmade look shown in the image.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern uses US crochet terms and is written for a firm amigurumi texture. Work most pieces in continuous spiral rounds unless the instructions say to join. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round. Stuff the head, body, legs, and arms firmly enough to hold shape, but do not overstuff the dress skirt or accessories.

• Finished doll height: About 11 inches from feet to top of red hood.
• Mouse style: Round head, small protruding muzzle, large side ears, slim arms, straight legs, and flared dress.
• Main colors: Warm beige skin, turquoise blue dress, white stripes, red hood, yellow sunhat, and pink inner ears.
• Construction: Head, body, legs, arms, ears, hood, dress, bag, sandals, and garden props are made separately, then sewn together.

Materials

• Sport or DK weight cotton yarn in warm beige, turquoise blue, white, red, yellow, pink, brown, green, gray, and small amounts of black and burgundy.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for the doll body and tight amigurumi parts.
• 3.0 mm crochet hook for the dress skirt, sunhat brim, and flower petals if you want softer drape.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Pair of oval safety eyes, about 14 mm wide and 20 mm tall, or crocheted oval eyes.
• Yarn needle, stitch markers, pins, scissors.
• Optional: thin brown embroidery thread for whiskers and smile lines.
• Optional: small amount of pink blush or pink yarn for cheek shading.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible decrease over next 2 stitches
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• rnd: round
• FO: fasten off

Gauge and Tension

For the beige amigurumi sections, 6 sc and 7 rounds should measure about 1 inch with a 2.5 mm hook. The fabric should be tight enough that stuffing does not show through. If your stitches are loose, use a smaller hook. If the head becomes too small and stiff, use a slightly larger hook but keep the same stitch counts.

The dress should sit smoothly over the body and flare outward like the image. The skirt is made with slightly looser tension than the body. This helps the blue and white stripes create a soft summer-dress shape instead of a stiff cone.

Main Head

Use warm beige yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. The head is a rounded ball with a slightly fuller cheek area. Stuff gradually as you work. The front of the face will be between rounds 12 and 19.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. Rnd 7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. Rnd 8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. Rnd 9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
10. Rnds 10 to 16: sc around. 54 sts each round.
11. Rnd 17: sc 7, dec, repeat around. 48 sts.
12. Rnd 18: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
13. Rnd 19: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
14. Rnd 20: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
15. Rnd 21: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
16. Rnd 22: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.

Pause before closing. Place the oval eyes on the front between rounds 13 and 15, leaving about 7 stitches between the inner edges. The eyes should sit slightly above the muzzle, giving the mouse a bright garden-doll expression. If using crocheted eyes, sew them on after stuffing.

1. Rnd 23: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
2. Rnd 24: dec around. 6 sts.
3. FO, leaving a long tail. Weave through the front loops of the last 6 stitches and pull closed.

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Muzzle and Nose

The muzzle is a small oval bump centered low on the face. It should sit below the eyes, not too far down, so the smile has space underneath. Use beige yarn first, then add the pink nose.

Beige Muzzle

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: sc around. 18 sts.
5. Rnd 5: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
6. FO, leaving a long sewing tail. Stuff lightly so the muzzle is rounded but not bulky.

Sew the muzzle to the face with the top edge around round 15 and the bottom edge around round 18. Keep it centered between the eyes. Flatten the back slightly while sewing so it blends smoothly into the face.

Pink Nose

1. Rnd 1: With dusty pink yarn, 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. 10 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc around. 10 sts.
4. FO, leaving a tail. Stuff with a tiny pinch of fiberfill.

Sew the nose to the center of the muzzle. The nose should look like a small round button. Embroider a short vertical line under the nose with burgundy yarn, then add a smiling curve below it. For the two front teeth, use white yarn and sew two tiny vertical rectangles under the smile.

Large Mouse Ears

The ears are wide, rounded, and attached to the sides of the head. Each ear has a beige outer ear and a pink inner ear. The inner pink section is smaller and slightly recessed, creating the soft mouse-ear look shown in the image.

Outer Ear, Make 2

Use beige yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. Rnd 7: sc around. 36 sts.
8. Rnd 8: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
9. FO, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff.

Inner Ear, Make 2

Use soft pink yarn.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: sc around. 24 sts.
6. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew one pink inner ear onto each beige outer ear, centered and slightly toward the lower half. Fold the bottom edge of each finished ear slightly inward and sew through 4 stitches to create a shallow cup shape. Attach the ears to the head between rounds 12 and 18, one on each side. Angle them outward and slightly forward.

Hair Curl

The mouse has a small pale curl peeking out under the red hood. Use cream yarn. This detail should sit at the center front hairline, above the eyes.

1. Ch 12.
2. Starting in the second ch from hook, work 2 sc in each chain across.
3. FO, leaving a tail.
4. The strip will curl naturally. Coil it into a small wavy tuft and sew it to the top front of the head around rounds 7 to 9.

Red Pointed Hood

The red hood fits like a pointed garden bonnet. It covers the top and back of the head, with the point sitting above the forehead. It does not cover the ears. Use red yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: sc around. 6 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
4. Rnd 4: sc around. 9 sts.
5. Rnd 5: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts.
6. Rnd 6: sc around. 12 sts.
7. Rnd 7: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 15 sts.
8. Rnd 8: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
9. Rnd 9: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 21 sts.
10. Rnd 10: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
11. Rnd 11: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 27 sts.
12. Rnd 12: sc 8, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
13. Rnd 13: sc 9, inc, repeat around. 33 sts.
14. Rnd 14: sc 10, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
15. Rnd 15: sc 11, inc, repeat around. 39 sts.
16. Rnd 16: sc 12, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
17. Rnd 17: sc 13, inc, repeat around. 45 sts.
18. Rnd 18: sc around. 45 sts.
19. Rnd 19: sc 14, inc, repeat around, then sc remaining sts evenly to end. 48 sts.
20. Rnd 20: sc around. 48 sts.

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Try the hood on the head. It should cover the top, back, and sides above the ears, with the front edge resting just behind the cream curl. To shape the lower bonnet edge, ch 1, turn, work 36 sc across the back and sides only, leaving the face opening unworked. FO with a long tail and sew lightly to the head, hiding the seam under the lower red edge.

Body Base

The body is mostly hidden under the blue dress, but it needs a firm pear shape to support the skirt. Use beige yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. Stuff firmly from the lower body upward.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. Rnds 7 to 10: sc around. 36 sts each round.
8. Rnd 11: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
9. Rnds 12 to 14: sc around. 30 sts each round.
10. Rnd 15: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
11. Rnds 16 to 18: sc around. 24 sts each round.
12. Rnd 19: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
13. Rnd 20: sc around. 18 sts.
14. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head.

Pin the head to the body before sewing. The head should sit centered and upright, with the face looking forward. Sew around the neck twice for strength. Add a little extra stuffing inside the neck area before closing the seam to prevent wobbling.

Legs, Make 2

The legs are straight and slim, visible below the dress. The feet are rounded and sandal-ready. Start with beige yarn.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: sc around. 18 sts.
5. Rnd 5: sc 4, dec, repeat 3 times. 15 sts.
6. Rnd 6: sc 3, dec, repeat 3 times. 12 sts.
7. Rnds 7 to 18: sc around. 12 sts each round.
8. Stuff lightly but evenly. FO the first leg. Make the second leg but do not FO if you want to join directly to the body base.

For this doll, sew both legs separately under the lower body, 5 stitches apart. Place them straight down so the sandals face forward. The legs should appear from beneath the flared skirt, not from the outside edges.

Arms, Make 2

The arms are long, slim, and relaxed at the sides. Use beige yarn. Stuff the lower half lightly and leave the upper half softer so the arms hang naturally.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
3. Rnds 3 to 5: sc around. 9 sts each round.
4. Rnd 6: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 6 sts.
5. Rnds 7 to 22: sc around. 6 sts each round.
6. Flatten the top opening and sc through both layers across 3 sts.
7. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew the arms to the upper sides of the body at rounds 17 to 18, just under the sleeve area of the dress. Angle them slightly downward. The right arm should rest beside the skirt, while the left arm is partly covered by the crossbody bag strap.

Blue Dress Bodice

The dress is bright turquoise blue with white trim and a flared striped skirt. The bodice is made separately and slipped over the body before the skirt is added. Use a 2.5 mm hook for the bodice.

1. Ch 31 with turquoise blue.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 30. Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2: sc 4, ch 7, skip 7, sc 8, ch 7, skip 7, sc 4. Ch 1, turn. This creates armholes.
4. Row 3: sc 4, sc 7 into chain space, sc 8, sc 7 into chain space, sc 4. 30 sts. Ch 1, turn.
5. Rows 4 to 8: sc across. 30 sts each row.
6. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Wrap the bodice around the upper body with the opening at the back. Sew the back seam closed. The top edge should sit just below the neck, and the lower edge should sit around the waist. Add a short row of white surface stitches along the neckline to create the pale trim visible in the image.

Dress Skirt

The skirt is crocheted downward from the waist. It has turquoise blue and white horizontal stripes, with a flared shape that reaches just above the ankles. Use a 3.0 mm hook for better drape.

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Join turquoise blue yarn to the lower edge of the bodice at the back center. Work around the waist.

1. Rnd 1: Work 30 sc evenly around the lower bodice edge. Join with sl st. 30 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc inc in each st around. Join. 60 sts.
3. Rnd 3: With turquoise, hdc around. Join. 60 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Change to white, hdc around. Join. 60 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Change to turquoise, hdc 4, inc, repeat around. Join. 72 sts.
6. Rnd 6: With turquoise, hdc around. Join. 72 sts.
7. Rnd 7: Change to white, hdc around. Join. 72 sts.
8. Rnd 8: Change to turquoise, hdc 5, inc, repeat around. Join. 84 sts.
9. Rnd 9: With turquoise, hdc around. Join. 84 sts.
10. Rnd 10: Change to white, hdc around. Join. 84 sts.
11. Rnd 11: Change to turquoise, hdc around. Join. 84 sts.
12. Rnd 12: With turquoise, sc around for a neat lower edge. Join. 84 sts.
13. FO and weave in ends inside the skirt.

The skirt should flare gently and sit wider than the body, matching the rounded blue dress in the image. If your skirt curls upward, lightly steam it from a safe distance or block it flat with pins until dry.

White Decorative Dress Lines

The dress has white stitch details across the bodice and skirt. These small lines make the dress look handmade and garden-like. Use white yarn and a yarn needle.

• Embroider one short white line across the upper chest, about 2 rounds below the neckline.
• Add small white dash stitches around the waistline.
• On the skirt, surface crochet or embroider white horizontal accent lines on top of the white stripe rows.
• Keep the stitches loose enough that the skirt does not pucker.

Small Yellow Flower Embroidery on Dress

The front of the dress has tiny yellow flowers with green stems. Use yellow and green embroidery yarn or split strands of cotton yarn.

1. Choose 3 flower positions across the front lower skirt.
2. For each stem, sew one vertical green line about 3 rounds tall.
3. Add two small green leaves using straight stitches angled away from the stem.
4. For each flower center, sew one tiny yellow knot or small stitch.
5. Add 5 short yellow petal stitches around the center.

Place one extra tiny flower on the upper bodice near the right side of the chest, as seen in the image. Keep this flower small so it does not overwhelm the bodice.

Blue Crossbody Bag

The mouse carries a small turquoise crossbody bag with a white daisy on the front. The bag hangs at the right hip, and the strap crosses diagonally over the bodice.

Bag Body

1. Ch 9 with turquoise blue.
2. Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch, work along other side of chain, sc 6, inc in last ch. 18 sts.
3. Rnd 2: sc 7, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. 23 sts.
4. Rnd 3: BLO sc around. 23 sts.
5. Rnds 4 to 8: sc around. 23 sts each round.
6. Rnd 9: sc around, then sl st to close. FO and weave in end.

Bag Flap

1. Join turquoise to back top edge of bag.
2. Row 1: sc 10 across. Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2: dec, sc 6, dec. 8 sts. Ch 1, turn.
4. Row 3: dec, sc 4, dec. 6 sts.
5. FO, leaving a tail. Sew flap lightly to the front upper edge.

Bag Strap

1. Ch 46 with turquoise blue.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st in each chain across.
3. FO, leaving both tails for sewing.

Sew one end of the strap to the upper left back of the bag and the other end to the upper right back. Place the strap over the left shoulder and across the front body so the bag rests on the right side of the skirt.

Daisy on Bag

1. With yellow yarn, make 5 sc in MR, sl st to join, FO.
2. Join white yarn to any stitch, ch 3, sl st in same stitch, repeat in each of the remaining 4 stitches to make 5 petals.
3. FO and sew the daisy to the front of the bag.

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Blue Sandals

The sandals are bright blue with open beige toes. They are sewn around the feet after the legs are attached. Make two soles and two top straps.

Sandal Sole, Make 2

1. Ch 8 with turquoise blue.
2. Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch, work along other side, sc 5, inc in last ch. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in next 2 sts. 22 sts.
4. Rnd 3: sc around. 22 sts.
5. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Place each sole under a foot and sew around the outer edge, leaving the toes visible at the front.

Toe Stitches

Use beige yarn to embroider 4 short vertical toe lines on the front of each foot. Make each line about 1 round tall. This creates the rounded toe detail visible inside the open sandals.

Sandal Strap, Make 2

1. Ch 13 with turquoise blue.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 12.
3. FO, leaving tails.

Sew one strap over the top of each foot, from one side of the sole to the other. Add a tiny blue bow or flower on the outside edge of each sandal by making ch 4, sl st to center, ch 4, sl st to center, then sewing it in place.

Yellow Sunhat

The yellow sunhat is a separate accessory placed beside the doll. It has a flat round crown, wide brim, turquoise trim, and a blue bow. Use yellow yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.

Hat Crown

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. Rnd 7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. Rnd 8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. Rnd 9: BLO sc around. 48 sts.
10. Rnds 10 to 12: sc around. 48 sts each round.

Hat Brim

1. Rnd 13: FLO sc 3, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
2. Rnd 14: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 72 sts.
3. Rnd 15: sc around. 72 sts.
4. Rnd 16: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 84 sts.
5. Rnd 17: sc around. 84 sts.
6. FO and weave in end.

Blue Hat Trim and Bow

• With turquoise blue yarn, surface crochet one circle around the crown above the brim.
• For the bow, ch 10, sc 9, FO. Wrap blue yarn around the center 5 times and secure.
• Sew the bow to one side of the hat brim.

White Watering Can

The small white watering can is a garden prop placed beside the mouse. Use light gray or white yarn. Keep stuffing very light so the shape remains small and tidy.

Can Body

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. Rnds 5 to 8: sc around. 18 sts each round.
6. Rnd 9: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
7. Stuff lightly.
8. Rnd 10: dec around. 6 sts.
9. FO and close the opening.

Can Spout

1. Ch 7.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6.
3. Ch 1, turn, sc 6 again.
4. FO, leaving a tail. Roll the strip into a small tube and sew the edge closed.
5. Sew the spout to the upper side of the can, angled upward.

Can Handle

1. Ch 14.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st 13.
3. FO, leaving tails.
4. Sew one end near the upper side and one end near the lower side of the can, forming a curved handle.

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Small Potted Flower

The flower pot is brown with a tiny pink flower and green stem. It should be small enough to sit beside the doll as a prop.

Pot

1. Rnd 1: With brown yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. Rnds 5 to 7: sc around. 18 sts each round.
6. Rnd 8: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
7. Rnd 9: sc around. 24 sts.
8. FO and stuff lightly. Add a small circle of dark brown yarn over the top as soil.

Soil Circle

1. Rnd 1: With dark brown yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. FO and sew to the top opening of the pot.

Stem and Flower

1. For the stem, ch 8 with green yarn, sl st in second ch from hook and across. FO.
2. Sew the lower end of the stem into the soil circle.
3. For the flower center, make 5 sc in yellow MR and join.
4. For pink petals, join pink yarn, ch 3, sl st in same stitch, repeat around for 5 petals.
5. Sew the flower to the top of the green stem.

Optional Crocheted Oval Eyes

If you prefer not to use plastic safety eyes, crochet two white oval eyes and sew small black pupils on top. This gives a similar bright look while keeping the whole face soft.

White Oval, Make 2

1. Ch 5 with white yarn.
2. Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, work along other side, sc 2, inc in last ch. 10 sts.
3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 2, inc in next 3 sts, sc 2, inc in next 2 sts. 16 sts.
4. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Black Pupil, Make 2

1. With black yarn, 5 sc in MR.
2. FO and sew one pupil onto each white oval.

Sew the eyes to the face between rounds 13 and 15. Add one tiny white stitch on each pupil if you want a shiny highlight.

Whiskers, Cheeks, and Smile

The mouse has fine whiskers extending from both sides of the muzzle. Use thin brown thread or split yarn. Sew three straight whiskers on each side. Begin each whisker near the side of the muzzle and extend outward across the cheek.

• Upper whisker: angled slightly upward.
• Middle whisker: nearly horizontal.
• Lower whisker: angled slightly downward.
• Keep all whiskers even and light so the face stays friendly.

Add a soft pink cheek on each side of the muzzle. You may use a tiny amount of blush, or crochet a very small pink circle with 5 sc in MR and sew it flat to the cheek. The blush should be subtle, not larger than the nose.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew the head securely to the body, keeping the eyes centered and the smile facing forward.
2. Attach both ears to the sides of the head, angled outward. The lower edge of each ear should sit slightly below the eye line.
3. Sew the red hood over the top and back of the head. Keep the cream curl visible at the front.
4. Sew the arms to the upper body so they hang naturally beside the dress.
5. Sew the legs under the body, then attach the blue sandals to the feet.
6. Fit the dress smoothly over the body. Adjust the skirt so the stripes sit evenly across the front.
7. Add the crossbody bag so the strap crosses from the left shoulder down to the right hip.
8. Place the sunhat, watering can, and potted flower beside the doll for the complete garden scene.

After assembly, check the face carefully. The nose should be centered, the smile should curve upward, and the teeth should sit directly below the smile. Reposition the ears before final sewing if one side looks higher than the other. Small symmetry adjustments make the finished doll look much closer to the image.

Care Notes

Spot clean the doll with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid soaking if you used safety eyes, blush, or glued details. Press out extra moisture gently with a towel and reshape the dress, ears, and hood while drying.

Do not machine dry. Let the doll air dry flat in a shaded place. Direct sunlight may fade the blue dress, red hood, pink inner ears, and yellow sunhat over time.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is round, firmly stuffed, and centered on the body.
• The ears are large, flat-cupped, and sewn symmetrically on both sides.
• The red pointed hood sits behind the cream curl and does not cover the ears.
• The blue dress has white stripes and a softly flared skirt.
• The daisy embroidery is visible on the skirt and the crossbody bag.
• The sandals show beige toes at the front.
• The yellow sunhat has blue trim and a side bow.
• The watering can and potted flower are small enough to match the doll scale.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, store the doll upright or flat with the ears supported. Avoid folding the ears or pressing the hood point for long periods. Keep the garden accessories together in a small fabric pouch so the sunhat, watering can, and potted flower are not misplaced.

If the dress skirt becomes flattened, gently lift the lower edge with your fingers and reshape the flare. You can lightly steam near the skirt, but do not touch the yarn directly with a hot iron. Always test heat carefully on a hidden area first.

For long-term display, keep the doll away from dust, strong sunlight, smoke, and damp storage boxes. A clean shelf, soft display basket, or breathable cotton bag will help the mouse stay bright and garden-ready for many seasons.