Crochet Tutorial: Long-Nosed Garden Mouse Overall Doll – Free Crochet Pattern.

This cheerful long-nosed garden mouse is crocheted as a soft amigurumi doll with oversized round ears, raised white eyes, a long beige snout, a bright red nose, thin black whiskers, and two small front teeth. The mouse wears green garden overalls with flower embroidery, tiny sandals with bee details, and carries a gray watering can. The set also includes a straw garden hat, a small trowel, and a potted sprout to match the cozy garden scene.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US crochet terms and is designed for a detailed amigurumi-style mouse doll. The finished piece has a rounded body, a long forward-facing nose, large circular ears, small arms, short legs, green overalls, and several miniature garden accessories.

The doll is worked mostly in continuous spiral rounds. Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round. Stuff firmly, but do not overstuff the snout, ears, straps, or accessories because those parts need to keep a neat handmade shape.

Finished Size

• Main mouse doll: about 10.5 to 12 inches tall when made with worsted weight yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.
• Hat: about 4.5 inches wide.
• Watering can: about 2 inches tall, not counting the handle and spout.
• Potted plant: about 2.5 inches tall.
• Trowel: about 3 inches long.

Materials

• Worsted weight yarn in beige or oatmeal for the mouse body.
• Worsted weight yarn in red for the rounded nose.
• Worsted weight yarn in green for the overalls and hat band.
• Worsted weight yarn in white for eyes, teeth, daisy petals, and tiny flower details.
• Worsted weight yarn in gray for the watering can and trowel blade.
• Worsted weight yarn in brown for sandals, pot, and trowel handle.
• Small amounts of yellow, pink, blue, and red yarn or embroidery thread for flowers and bees.
• Black embroidery thread or thin black cord for whiskers and mouth details.
• Two 8 mm black safety eyes for the raised eye pieces.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• 3.0 mm crochet hook for the doll.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for flowers, bees, and tiny accessories.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Scissors.
• Two small wooden or beige buttons for the overall straps.
• Optional floral wire for firmer whiskers, watering can handle, or plant stem.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 single crochet in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• Rnd: round
• FO: fasten off

Gauge

For the clean, tight look shown in the image, use a firm amigurumi gauge. With worsted weight yarn and a 3.0 mm hook, 6 single crochet stitches should measure about 1 inch across. Your stitches should be tight enough that stuffing does not show through.

If your doll becomes floppy, switch to a smaller hook. If the fabric becomes too stiff to shape smoothly, loosen your tension slightly. The snout and eyes should be firm, but the large ears should remain slightly flexible.

Main Body and Head Base

The body and head are made as one tall beige base. The lower section forms the rounded body under the green overalls, while the upper section narrows into the neck and rises into the head. Stuff as you go, especially before the opening becomes small.

Body

1. Rnd 1: With beige yarn, make MR, work 6 sc into ring. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. Rnd 8: Sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. Rnds 9-16: Sc around. 48 sts each round.
10. Rnd 17: Sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
11. Rnd 18: Sc around. 42 sts.
12. Rnd 19: Sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
13. Rnd 20: Sc around. 36 sts.
14. Rnd 21: Sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
15. Rnd 22: Sc around. 30 sts.
16. Rnd 23: Sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
17. Rnd 24: Sc around. 24 sts.

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Stuff the body firmly. Keep the bottom slightly rounded so the mouse can sit against a bench or shelf. Do not flatten the base too much, because the image shows a soft upright garden doll shape.

Head Base

1. Rnd 25: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
2. Rnd 26: Sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
3. Rnd 27: Sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
4. Rnd 28: Sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
5. Rnds 29-36: Sc around. 48 sts each round.
6. Rnd 37: Sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
7. Rnd 38: Sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
8. Rnd 39: Sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
9. Rnd 40: Sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
10. Rnd 41: Sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
11. Rnd 42: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
12. Rnd 43: Dec around. 6 sts.

Finish stuffing the head firmly. FO with a long tail. Weave the yarn tail through the front loops of the final 6 stitches, pull closed, and hide the end inside the head.

Long Beige Snout

The long snout is the most important feature of this mouse. It should project forward from the center of the face and taper slightly toward the red nose. Work it as a separate cone-like tube, then sew it to the front of the head.

1. Rnd 1: With beige yarn, make MR, work 6 sc into ring. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. Rnds 5-8: Sc around. 24 sts each round.
6. Rnd 9: Sc 6, dec, repeat 3 times. 21 sts.
7. Rnds 10-12: Sc around. 21 sts each round.
8. Rnd 13: Sc 5, dec, repeat 3 times. 18 sts.
9. Rnds 14-16: Sc around. 18 sts each round.
10. Rnd 17: Sc 4, dec, repeat 3 times. 15 sts.
11. Rnds 18-19: Sc around. 15 sts each round.
12. Rnd 20: Sc 3, dec, repeat 3 times. 12 sts.
13. Rnd 21: Sc around. 12 sts.

Stuff the wide base of the snout firmly and the narrow front lightly. FO with a long sewing tail. Place the wide base on the front center of the head, beginning just below the eyes and ending slightly above the neck. Sew around securely.

The snout should angle slightly downward, not straight upward. Add a few extra stitches at the top edge to anchor it firmly against the face. Add fewer tight stitches underneath so the nose points naturally forward.

Red Rounded Nose

The red nose sits at the very end of the long snout. It is oversized and rounded, giving the mouse a playful garden character look. Make it firm and oval, then sew it to the small front opening of the snout.

1. Rnd 1: With red yarn, make MR, work 6 sc into ring. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. Rnds 5-7: Sc around. 24 sts each round.
6. Rnd 8: Sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
7. Rnd 9: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.

Stuff firmly. FO with a long tail. Sew the nose to the narrow tip of the snout. Shape it as a soft oval by pulling the sewing stitches slightly tighter on the left and right sides.

Large Round Ears

The ears are large, flat, and round with a slightly cupped edge. Make two identical beige circles. They should sit high on the sides of the head and lean outward, just like the wide mouse ears in the picture.

Make Two Ears

1. Rnd 1: With beige yarn, make MR, work 8 sc into ring. 8 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 32 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. 40 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
7. Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc, repeat around. 56 sts.
8. Rnd 8: Sc around. 56 sts.
9. Rnd 9: Sc 6, inc, repeat around. 64 sts.
10. Rnd 10: Sc around. 64 sts.

Do not stuff. Fold the ear very gently to create a shallow cup shape. Work a border around the edge with sc in each stitch. FO with a long tail for sewing.

Pin the ears to the head between Rnds 30 and 38. The inner bottom edge should sit behind the eye area. Sew firmly along the bottom third of each ear only, leaving the outer edge loose and rounded.

Raised White Eyes

The eyes are two separate white domes placed close together on top of the snout area. The black safety eyes sit in the white domes, giving the mouse a surprised and friendly expression.

Make Two Eye Domes

1. Rnd 1: With white yarn, make MR, work 6 sc into ring. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnds 4-5: Sc around. 18 sts each round.
5. Rnd 6: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.

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Insert one black safety eye between Rnds 3 and 4 of each white eye dome, slightly toward the front. Stuff lightly. FO with a long tail. Sew both eye domes close together above the base of the snout.

The eyes should touch or almost touch at the center. Angle them forward so the black pupils face the viewer. Sew the lower edge of each eye into the head and snout seam for a secure finish.

Teeth

The mouse has two small white front teeth hanging below the snout. They are narrow, soft, and slightly rounded at the tips.

1. With white yarn, ch 5.
2. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 4 sts.
3. Rows 2-3: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 4 sts.
4. Row 4: Ch 1, turn, dec, dec. 2 sts.
5. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Fold the small rectangle in half vertically to suggest two teeth, or use a strand of beige thread to sew a shallow line down the center. Attach under the snout, directly below the red nose and between the whisker lines.

Mouth and Whiskers

Use black embroidery thread or thin black cord for the facial detailing. The mouth is a simple curved smile under the snout. The whiskers are long, thin, and dramatic, extending across the face on both sides.

• Embroider one curved smile line from the lower snout toward the left cheek.
• Add three small vertical black marks on each side of the snout as whisker dots.
• Cut six black thread pieces, each about 5 to 6 inches long.
• Insert three whiskers on the left side and three on the right side.
• Tie or secure each whisker inside the snout with a tiny knot and a drop of fabric glue if desired.
• Trim the whiskers so they are long, thin, and slightly uneven like the image.

Legs and Feet

The legs are short beige tubes. The feet are rounded with visible toe bumps at the front. They peek out under the green overalls and sit inside brown sandals.

Make Two Legs

1. Rnd 1: With beige yarn, make MR, work 6 sc into ring. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnds 4-8: Sc around. 18 sts each round.
5. Rnd 9: Sc 4, dec, repeat 3 times. 15 sts.
6. Rnds 10-13: Sc around. 15 sts each round.

Stuff each leg firmly. FO with a long tail. Sew the legs to the bottom front of the body, leaving a small gap between them so the green overall shorts can be shaped around the legs.

Toe Bumps

For each foot, use beige yarn and make three small toe bumps. These will be sewn to the front of the foot area before the sandals are attached.

1. Rnd 1: Make MR, work 5 sc into ring. 5 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Sc around. 5 sts.
3. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Make six toe bumps total. Sew three to the front of each foot. Place the middle toe slightly lower than the side toes for a natural rounded look.

Arms

The arms are long and slim. In the image, they hang down at the sides of the body and are mostly beige, with the overalls covering the torso behind them.

Make Two Arms

1. Rnd 1: With beige yarn, make MR, work 6 sc into ring. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
3. Rnds 3-6: Sc around. 9 sts each round.
4. Rnd 7: Sc 2, inc, repeat 3 times. 12 sts.
5. Rnds 8-20: Sc around. 12 sts each round.
6. Rnd 21: Sc 2, dec, repeat 3 times. 9 sts.
7. Rnd 22: Sc around. 9 sts.

Stuff the lower hand section lightly and leave the upper arm softer. Flatten the top opening. Sc through both layers to close. FO with a long tail and sew the arms to the sides of the body at the shoulder area.

Tail

The tail is thin, beige, and extends behind the body. It should be long enough to show behind the mouse when viewed from the side.

1. With beige yarn, ch 28.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. 27 sl sts.
3. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

For a thicker tail, make a second identical chain and sew both pieces together. Attach the tail to the back lower body around Rnd 9. Curve it gently to one side.

Green Garden Overalls

The overalls are worked in green and fitted directly around the lower body. They have short legs, a front bib, shoulder straps, small side buttons, and colorful flower embroidery across the front.

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Overall Shorts Base

Join green yarn around the body at about Rnd 13 of the beige body. Work carefully around the body rather than making a separate removable garment. This gives the neat fitted look shown in the image.

1. Rnd 1: Attach green yarn at the back waist. Sc 48 evenly around the body. Join with sl st. 48 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc around. Join. 48 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc 7, inc, repeat around. Join. 54 sts.
4. Rnds 4-9: Ch 1, sc around. Join each round. 54 sts.

Now divide for the two short legs. Flatten the lower body and mark the center front and center back. Each leg opening uses about 22 stitches, with a small center gap shaped between the legs.

First Overall Leg

1. Rnd 1: Sc around first marked leg opening with 22 sc. Join. 22 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc around. Join. 22 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc around in BLO to create the cuff ridge. Join. 22 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc around. Join. 22 sts.
5. FO and weave in end.

Second Overall Leg

1. Attach green yarn at inner side of second opening.
2. Rnd 1: Sc around second marked leg opening with 22 sc. Join. 22 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc around. Join. 22 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc around in BLO. Join. 22 sts.
5. Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc around. Join. 22 sts.
6. FO and weave in end.

Overall Bib

The bib sits on the front of the body and reaches from the waist to the lower chest. It should be wide enough to hold the embroidered flowers.

1. Attach green yarn at the front waist, centered between the arms.
2. Row 1: Sc 16 across the front waist stitches. 16 sts.
3. Rows 2-8: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts.
4. Row 9: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 12, dec. 14 sts.
5. Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 14 sts.
6. FO and weave in end.

Overall Straps

The straps cross from the front bib over the shoulders toward the back waist. In the image, one strap is visible across the chest with small buttons at the side.

1. Make first strap: With green yarn, ch 28.
2. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 27 sts.
3. FO, leaving a sewing tail.
4. Make second strap the same way.

Sew one end of each strap to the top corners of the bib. Cross or angle the straps over the shoulders and sew the other ends to the back waist. Add one small button on each side of the waist where the strap visually meets the shorts.

Flower Embroidery on Overalls

The overalls have tiny embroidered garden flowers on the bib and lower shorts. Use short yarn stitches or embroidery thread. Keep the flowers small and scattered, not perfectly symmetrical.

• Use yellow yarn for tiny French-knot flower centers.
• Use pink, blue, white, and red yarn for small petal stitches.
• Make green vertical stitches for flower stems.
• Add a cluster of flowers on the front bib.
• Add another cluster near the lower left overall leg.
• Add a few tiny leaves by making short V-shaped green stitches.

For a crocheted flower instead of embroidery, make tiny petals with ch 3, sl st into the same base point, repeated five times. Sew these tiny flowers to the overalls using matching thread.

Small Flower Clips on Head

The mouse has tiny flowers near the ears. Make one blue flower with a yellow center and one small pink flower. Sew them near the base of the ears to match the garden style.

Mini Five-Petal Flower

1. With yellow yarn, make MR, work 5 sc into ring. Join and FO.
2. Attach petal color to any stitch.
3. Ch 3, sl st into same stitch.
4. Repeat ch 3, sl st into each of the remaining 4 stitches.
5. FO and leave a tail for sewing.

Make one flower in blue and one in pink. Sew the blue flower to the left ear area and the pink flower to the right side near the eye and ear seam.

Garden Hat

The hat is a flat straw-style garden hat with a rounded crown, wide brim, green band, and white daisy. Use beige yarn for the straw effect. Work with firm tension so the brim holds its shape.

Hat Crown

1. Rnd 1: With beige yarn, make MR, work 6 sc into ring. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. Rnd 7: BLO sc around. 36 sts.
8. Rnds 8-11: Sc around. 36 sts each round.

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Hat Brim

1. Rnd 12: FLO sc 2, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
2. Rnd 13: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
3. Rnd 14: Sc 4, inc, repeat around. 72 sts.
4. Rnd 15: Sc around. 72 sts.
5. Rnd 16: Sc 5, inc, repeat around. 84 sts.
6. Rnd 17: Sc around. 84 sts.
7. FO and weave in end.

Green Hat Band

1. With green yarn, ch 38.
2. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 37 sts.
3. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Wrap the green band around the base of the crown. Sew it in place. Adjust the length if needed so it sits smoothly. The hat in the image rests beside the doll, but you may also make it wearable by lightly shaping the crown.

Hat Daisy

1. With yellow yarn, make MR, work 6 sc into ring. Join and FO.
2. Attach white yarn to any stitch.
3. Ch 4, sl st into same stitch to make one petal.
4. Repeat one petal in each stitch around for 6 petals.
5. FO, leaving a long tail.

Sew the daisy to the side of the hat brim, near the green band. Slightly angle the petals outward so the flower looks raised and cheerful.

Brown Sandals

The sandals are small brown soles with a strap across the toes. They sit under the beige feet and frame the toe bumps. Add tiny bee decorations to match the image.

Make Two Soles

1. With brown yarn, ch 8.
2. Rnd 1: Sc in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Working on other side of chain, sc 5, inc in last st. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Inc, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in next 2 sts. 22 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Sc around. 22 sts.
5. FO, leaving a long tail.

Sandal Strap

1. With brown yarn, ch 10.
2. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 9 sts.
3. FO with long tails.

Make two straps. Place each strap over the toe area of one foot and sew the ends to the sides of the sole. Sew each sole under a foot, keeping the toes visible at the front.

Tiny Bee Decorations

Make two tiny bees for the sandals. Use yellow and black thread or yarn. These bees should be very small, just enough to look like garden charms.

1. With yellow yarn, make MR, work 5 sc into ring. 5 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Sc around. 5 sts.
3. Change to black yarn, sc around. 5 sts.
4. Change to yellow yarn, sc around. 5 sts.
5. FO and close.

Add two tiny white wing stitches on top of each bee. Sew one bee to each sandal strap. You can also embroider a black head dot with thread.

Gray Watering Can

The watering can is a small gray accessory with a round body, a curved handle, and a narrow spout. It can hang from the mouse’s strap or be placed beside the doll.

Watering Can Body

1. Rnd 1: With gray yarn, make MR, work 6 sc into ring. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. Rnds 5-8: Sc around. 18 sts each round.
6. Rnd 9: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
7. Rnd 10: Sc around. 12 sts.
8. FO, leaving a tail.

Stuff lightly so the watering can keeps its shape. Close the top with small stitches, or leave a tiny opening if you want a more realistic can.

Watering Can Spout

1. With gray yarn, ch 8.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7.
3. Ch 1, turn, sc 7.
4. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Roll the small rectangle into a narrow tube. Sew along the edge. Attach it to one upper side of the can, angled upward and outward. Flatten the outer tip slightly to suggest the sprinkler end.

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Watering Can Handle

1. With gray yarn, ch 16.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. 15 sl sts.
3. FO with long tails.

Sew one end of the handle near the upper back of the can and the other end near the lower back. Curve it outward. For a firmer handle, crochet over a short piece of floral wire.

Watering Can Shoulder Cord

The image shows a light cord running across the mouse’s body and holding the watering can. Make this cord with gray or beige yarn.

1. With gray or beige yarn, ch 45.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st across. 44 sl sts.
3. FO and weave in one end.

Sew one end of the cord near the back shoulder. Bring it diagonally across the front body. Attach the watering can near the lower right side of the overalls. Secure the other end near the side waist.

Garden Trowel

The trowel has a brown handle and gray blade. It is small and should sit beside the mouse as a garden prop.

Handle

1. With brown yarn, ch 9.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8.
3. Rows 2-3: Ch 1, turn, sc 8.
4. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Roll the handle lengthwise and sew the long edge closed. Stuffing is not needed. The handle should look slim and rounded.

Trowel Blade

1. With gray yarn, ch 5.
2. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 4 sts.
3. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, inc, sc 2, inc. 6 sts.
4. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 6 sts.
5. Row 4: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2, dec. 4 sts.
6. Row 5: Ch 1, turn, dec, dec. 2 sts.
7. Row 6: Ch 1, turn, dec. 1 st.
8. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew the wide edge of the blade to the brown handle. Add a line of darker gray embroidery down the blade center if desired.

Potted Sprout

The potted sprout is a small terracotta-style pot with a green plant. It sits beside the mouse and completes the garden theme.

Pot

1. Rnd 1: With brown yarn, make MR, work 6 sc into ring. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Sc around. 18 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
7. Rnds 7-9: Sc around. 24 sts each round.
8. Rnd 10: FLO sc around to make a raised rim. 24 sts.
9. FO and weave in end.

Stuff the pot lightly. Cut a small brown circle from crocheted fabric or work a flat circle of 18 stitches and sew it inside the top as soil.

Soil Circle

1. With dark brown yarn, make MR, work 6 sc into ring. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. FO with a long tail.

Sew the soil circle into the top opening of the pot. Keep the pot slightly open at the top so the plant can be attached neatly.

Leaves

1. With green yarn, ch 7.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc.
3. Ch 1, working along the other side of the chain, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st.
4. FO, leaving a tail.

Make five leaves. Sew the leaf bases together in a small cluster, then attach the cluster to the center of the soil circle. Angle each leaf outward like a small succulent or sprout.

Optional Texture Details

The pictured mouse has a handmade, textured crochet surface. To emphasize this look, use slightly heathered beige yarn or gently brush the body with your fingers after finishing. Do not over-brush, because the stitches should remain visible.

• Add a few beige surface stitches on the snout to imitate soft shaping lines.
• Add small black dots near the nose for extra whisker marks.
• Add a few green embroidery stitches near the overall cuffs.
• Add tiny yellow flower knots to the bib and shorts.
• Add one or two pastel flowers near the ears for a cheerful garden look.

Joining the Doll Together

Before sewing permanently, pin every major piece in place. Check the head angle, snout length, ear position, and overall fit. The mouse should look balanced from the front, with the long nose centered and the ears sitting wide on both sides.

1. Sew the long snout to the front center of the head.
2. Sew the red nose to the narrow tip of the snout.
3. Sew the eye domes above the snout, close together.
4. Sew the ears to both sides of the head between the eye line and back head curve.
5. Attach teeth under the snout.
6. Embroider the smile, whisker dots, and facial lines.
7. Add long whiskers on both sides of the snout.
8. Sew arms to the sides of the body.
9. Sew legs to the lower body and add toe bumps.
10. Work or attach the green overalls around the body.
11. Add straps, buttons, cuffs, and floral embroidery.
12. Sew sandals to the feet and add bee decorations.
13. Attach the tail to the lower back.
14. Place the watering can cord across the chest and secure the can.
15. Finish the hat, trowel, and potted plant as separate accessories.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all main pieces are attached, hold the doll upright and check the expression. The red nose should be the furthest forward point. The eyes should sit high and close together, while the large ears should frame the head without folding inward.

Use black thread to refine the smile. Add one curved line below the snout and a few short stitch marks near the nose. If the whiskers droop too much, replace them with thin coated thread or lightweight black craft wire.

Check the overalls last. The front bib should lie flat against the body. The straps should look slightly diagonal and the side buttons should sit at the upper waist. Add extra tiny flowers if the front looks too plain.

Care Notes

• Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if you used buttons, wire, safety eyes, or glued whiskers.
• Let the doll air dry fully before storing.
• Keep away from direct sunlight for long periods to protect the red nose and green overalls from fading.
• If made for a small child, replace buttons, wire, and safety eyes with embroidered details.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The snout is centered and securely sewn.
• The red nose is firmly attached and evenly rounded.
• The eyes are close together and face forward.
• The ears are large, round, and slightly cupped.
• The whiskers are long and balanced on both sides.
• The green overalls fit snugly around the body.
• The flower embroidery is visible on the bib and shorts.
• The sandals show the beige toe bumps clearly.
• The watering can, hat, trowel, and plant are finished as matching garden accessories.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, support the snout and ears when cleaning. Gently dab stained areas instead of rubbing. The long nose and large ears can stretch if pulled while wet, so reshape them carefully with your hands during drying.

Store the mouse in a dry place with the accessories placed beside it, not pressed against the face. If the hat brim curls, flatten it gently under a light book for a few hours. Avoid heavy pressure on the raised eyes and red nose.

For long-term display, place the doll on a shelf away from moisture and dust. Brush away dust with a soft dry paintbrush. Check the whiskers, buttons, and watering can cord occasionally, and tighten any loose stitches with a yarn needle.

Finishing Message

Your long-nosed garden mouse is now complete, wearing green flowered overalls, tiny bee sandals, and surrounded by sweet garden tools. The oversized ears, raised eyes, red nose, straw hat, watering can, trowel, and potted sprout create a playful handmade scene full of cozy garden charm.