Crochet Tutorial: Hedgehog Daisy Garden Jacket Doll – Free Crochet Pattern.

This sweet crochet hedgehog doll wears a pale blue daisy garden jacket over a striped brown turtleneck, soft tan romper-style body, pink flower sandals, and a green crossbody bag. The set also includes a small gray watering can and a brown-handled garden trowel, matching the gentle handmade look shown in the photo.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US crochet terms. The hedgehog is worked mostly in continuous spiral rounds, with shaping created by increases, decreases, color changes, and careful sewing. The jacket, bag, sandals, flowers, watering can, and trowel are made separately and attached at the end.

The finished doll is designed to look like a soft garden friend with a round head, gentle snout, fuzzy hedgehog spines, short rounded body, small arms, plump legs, and layered clothing. Use a firm tension so the stuffing does not show through the stitches.

Finished Size

• Doll height: about 10 to 11 inches tall using DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.
• Head width: about 4 inches across after stuffing.
• Jacket length: about 3 inches from shoulder to hem.
• Bag width: about 2 inches across.
• Watering can: about 2.5 inches wide including spout and handle.
• Trowel: about 3 inches long.

Materials

• DK weight cotton or cotton-acrylic yarn in warm beige for face, hands, feet, and body.
• DK yarn in medium tan or golden beige for romper body and shorts area.
• DK yarn in light sky blue for the open jacket.
• DK yarn in dark chocolate brown and cream for the striped turtleneck.
• DK yarn in grass green for the crossbody bag and strap.
• DK yarn in light pink for sandals and sandal flowers.
• DK yarn in gray for watering can and trowel blade.
• DK yarn in warm brown for nose, trowel handle, and small embroidery details.
• Small amounts of white, yellow, and green yarn or embroidery thread for daisies and stems.
• Faux fur, eyelash, or fluffy yarn in beige-brown for hedgehog spines around the head.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for the doll and clothing.
• 2.0 mm crochet hook for flowers and fine details.
• 6 mm black safety eyes or black embroidery thread.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Yarn needle, stitch markers, pins, scissors, and a small amount of blush powder if desired.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• FO: fasten off
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• R: round or row

Gauge and Working Notes

Gauge is not critical, but the doll should be firm. With the 2.5 mm hook, 6 sc rounds over 36 sts should measure about 1.5 inches tall and 1.75 inches wide. If your stitches are loose, use a smaller hook.

Work the head, body, arms, and legs in continuous spiral rounds unless the pattern says to join. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. Stuff the head and body firmly, but keep arms and feet softly stuffed for a rounded handmade look.

When changing color, finish the last yarn-over of the previous stitch with the new color. For neat stripes, carry the unused yarn inside the work only when it does not make the fabric bulky. Otherwise, cut and weave ends securely.

Head and Face

The head is round and slightly wider than tall, with a small protruding muzzle. The front is smooth beige crochet, while the fuzzy spines frame the crown and sides. The face should stay soft and friendly, with the eyes placed wide apart and the nose centered low on the muzzle.

Head

Use warm beige yarn and the 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. (36)
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat around. (42)
8. R8: sc 6, inc; repeat around. (48)
9. R9: sc 7, inc; repeat around. (54)
10. R10-R17: sc around for 8 rounds. (54)
11. R18: sc 7, dec; repeat around. (48)
12. R19: sc 6, dec; repeat around. (42)
13. R20: sc 5, dec; repeat around. (36)
14. R21: sc 4, dec; repeat around. (30)

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Insert safety eyes between R13 and R14, about 10 stitches apart. The eyes should sit slightly above the center line of the face. Stuff the head firmly, shaping the cheeks outward with your fingers as you fill.

1. R22: sc 3, dec; repeat around. (24)
2. R23: sc 2, dec; repeat around. (18)
3. R24: sc 1, dec; repeat around. (12)

FO, leaving a long tail for sewing to the body. Do not close the neck opening completely. Add more stuffing through the opening before joining the head.

Muzzle

Use warm beige yarn. The muzzle is oval and gently raised. Sew it to the lower center of the face after the eyes are installed.

1. R1: ch 5. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of the chain, sc 2, inc in last ch. (10)
2. R2: inc, sc 2, inc 3 times, sc 2, inc 2 times. (16)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 3, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 3, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. (22)
4. R4: sc around. (22)

FO with a long sewing tail. Lightly stuff the muzzle. Pin it between R14 and R19 of the head, centered between the eyes. Sew around the edge neatly, keeping the muzzle rounded but not too bulky.

Nose and Mouth Embroidery

• With warm brown yarn, embroider a rounded triangle nose across the top center of the muzzle, about 4 stitches wide and 3 rows tall.
• Fill the triangle with horizontal satin stitches until the nose looks smooth and plush.
• Bring the yarn down from the nose center and stitch one straight vertical line about 4 rows long.
• Add a tiny split at the lower end if you want a soft smiling expression.
• Add light pink blush on both cheeks, just below the eyes and beside the muzzle.

Hedgehog Spines and Hair Cap

The fuzzy spines create the hedgehog look around the top, sides, and back of the head. The photo shows a dense, soft halo framing the face, with the face center left smooth. Use faux fur yarn for the most accurate texture.

Fuzzy Back Head Cap

Use beige-brown faux fur yarn and the 2.5 mm hook. Keep the stitches loose enough that the fluffy fibers can bloom.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. (36)
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat around. (42)
8. R8-R12: sc around. (42)

FO with a long tail. Brush the fibers gently with your fingers. Place this cap over the back half of the head, starting about 3 rounds behind the eye line and curving down around both sides. Sew securely with small stitches hidden in the fur.

Front Fluffy Fringe

• Cut 18 strands of faux fur yarn, each about 4 inches long.
• Using the latch-hook method, attach strands along the top forehead line, from one ear position to the other.
• Trim uneven ends carefully so the fuzzy fringe frames the forehead without covering the eyes.
• Leave a small smooth beige face area visible at the center front.

Ears

The ears are small and rounded, partly hidden by the spines. Make two in warm beige.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. (18)
4. R4-R5: sc around. (18)
5. R6: sc 1, dec; repeat around. (12)

Do not stuff. Flatten each ear and sc through both layers with 6 sc across the bottom. FO, leaving a tail. Sew the ears to the sides of the head between R11 and R16, tucked slightly under the fuzzy cap.

Body and Romper Shape

The body is a short, rounded romper-style shape in warm tan. It begins at the neck, widens through the belly, and splits into two short legs. The lower body has a soft bloomer look with visible cuffs above the feet.

Upper Body

Use medium tan yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. (36)
7. R7-R12: sc around. (36)
8. R13: sc 5, inc; repeat around. (42)
9. R14-R21: sc around. (42)
10. R22: sc 5, dec; repeat around. (36)

Stuff the body firmly. Shape it into a rounded pear, wider at the lower belly and narrower at the neck. Keep the front smooth because this area will show beneath the open blue jacket.

Leg Split

Lay the body flat and mark the center front and center back. Each leg uses 16 stitches, with 4 stitches left between the legs at the front and 4 stitches at the back. Adjust by one stitch if needed to keep the legs centered.

1. First leg R1: sc 16 around the first leg opening, skipping the center gap. (16)
2. R2-R5: sc around. (16)
3. R6: BLO sc around to create cuff ridge. (16)
4. R7: sc around. (16)
5. R8: sc 2, dec; repeat around. (12)

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FO the first leg. Join yarn to the second leg opening and repeat R1-R8. Lightly stuff both leg tops, leaving space for feet to be sewn underneath.

Shorts Cuffs

Use the front loops left from R6 of each leg.

1. Join tan yarn to any front loop of the cuff round.
2. Ch 1, sc in each front loop around. (16)
3. Sl st to first sc, FO, and weave in the end.

This small ridge gives the leg opening the raised edge visible above the sandals.

Striped Turtleneck Insert

The photo shows a dark brown and cream striped turtleneck peeking out between the head and jacket. This section can be made as a separate collar tube and sewn around the neck for a clean layered look.

Turtleneck Tube

Use dark brown yarn first. Join each round with a sl st and ch 1, because the stripes look cleaner when rounds are joined.

1. R1: ch 30, sl st to form a ring, making sure the chain is not twisted. Sc around. (30)
2. R2: with cream, sc around. (30)
3. R3: with dark brown, sc around. (30)
4. R4: with cream, sc around. (30)
5. R5: with dark brown, sc around. (30)
6. R6: with cream, sc around. (30)
7. R7: with dark brown, sc around. (30)
8. R8: with dark brown, BLO sc around for a folded top edge. (30)

FO and weave in all ends. Slip the tube around the neck area before sewing the head to the body. The collar should sit above the blue jacket and below the chin.

Arms and Hands

The hands are beige, and the sleeves are blue because the jacket covers most of the arms. The arms hang down at the sides, slightly forward, with tiny rounded hands showing below the sleeves.

Make Two Arms

Start with warm beige yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: sc 1, inc; repeat around. (9)
3. R3-R5: sc around. (9)
4. Change to light blue yarn.
5. R6: BLO sc around. (9)
6. R7-R17: sc around. (9)
7. R18: flatten the opening and sc through both layers with 4 sc across.

Stuff only the lower hand area lightly. Leave the sleeve section mostly flat so it hangs naturally. FO with a long tail. Sew arms to the body between R6 and R8, angled slightly downward.

Feet and Toes

The feet are beige and rounded, with toe details visible inside the pink sandals. Make two feet.

1. R1: ch 6. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch. Work along the other side, sc 3, inc in last ch. (12)
2. R2: inc, sc 3, inc 3 times, sc 3, inc 2 times. (18)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc. (22)
4. R4-R5: sc around. (22)
5. R6: sc 6, dec 5 times, sc 6. (17)
6. R7: sc 5, dec 3 times, sc 6. (14)
7. R8-R9: sc around. (14)

Stuff the foot firmly at the toe and lightly at the heel. FO with a long tail. Embroider three short vertical toe lines on the front of each foot using beige or light brown yarn. Sew feet under the leg cuffs, toes pointing forward.

Pink Garden Sandals

The sandals have a beige sole look with pink straps and tiny pink flowers near the outer side. Make the soles in light tan or beige, then add pink straps.

Sandal Soles

Make two in light tan.

1. R1: ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Work along the other side, sc 4, inc in last ch. (14)
2. R2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. (20)
3. R3: BLO sc around. (20)

FO and weave in ends. Place one sole under each foot and sew around the edge with small stitches.

Pink Front Straps

Use light pink yarn.

• Join yarn to the left side of the sole near the toe.
• Ch 9, pull the chain across the top of the foot, and sl st to the opposite side of the sole.
• FO and secure ends inside the sandal.
• Repeat for the second sandal.

Pink Sandal Flowers

Use light pink yarn and the 2.0 mm hook. Make two small flowers.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR, sl st to first sc.
2. Petals: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st; repeat in each of the 5 sts.

FO, leaving a tail. Sew one flower to the outside front strap of each sandal.

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Light Blue Daisy Garden Jacket

The jacket is open at the front, slightly oversized, and falls to the upper hip. It has long sleeves, a soft collar edge, and white daisy embroidery on both front panels. The shape is simple but should be sewn neatly so it sits like a real cardigan.

Jacket Body

Use light blue yarn. Work in rows. Ch 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.

1. Row 1: ch 43. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 42. Turn. (42)
2. Row 2: ch 1, sc across. Turn. (42)
3. Row 3: ch 1, sc 6 for right front, ch 8 and skip 8 for armhole, sc 14 for back, ch 8 and skip 8 for armhole, sc 6 for left front. Turn. (34 stitches and chains)
4. Row 4: ch 1, sc in each sc and each ch across. Turn. (42)
5. Row 5-R16: ch 1, sc across. Turn. (42)
6. Row 17: ch 1, sc across. FO. (42)

The jacket should wrap around the body but remain open at the front, showing the striped turtleneck and tan belly. If your doll is larger, add 2 stitches to each front panel and 2 rows to the length.

Jacket Front Border

Join light blue yarn at the lower right front corner.

1. Work sc evenly up the right front edge, around the back neck, and down the left front edge.
2. Place 2 sc in each lower front corner to prevent curling.
3. FO and weave in ends.

This border creates the raised edge visible along the open jacket front.

Sleeves

Join light blue yarn to the underarm of one armhole.

1. R1: sc 18 evenly around the armhole. (18)
2. R2-R11: sc around. (18)
3. R12: sc 4, dec; repeat around. (15)
4. R13: sc around. (15)
5. R14: BLO sc around. (15)
6. R15: sc around for cuff. (15)

FO and weave in ends. Repeat for the second sleeve. The sleeves should cover the crocheted blue arm section and stop just above the beige hands.

Jacket Daisy Embroidery

Use white, yellow, and green yarn or embroidery thread. Add flowers to both lower front panels. The image shows clusters of white daisies with yellow centers and green stems.

• On each front panel, embroider 3 green stems using straight stitches from the lower edge upward.
• For each daisy center, make one small yellow knot or tiny satin circle.
• For petals, stitch 5 or 6 white lazy daisy loops around each yellow center.
• Add 2 small green leaf stitches along each stem.
• Keep the embroidery flat so the jacket still hangs naturally.

Green Crossbody Daisy Bag

The bag is a small rounded green purse worn across the body from the right shoulder to the left hip. It has a white daisy on the front and a long green strap.

Bag Body

Use grass green yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. (30)
6. R6-R9: sc around. (30)
7. R10: sc 3, dec; repeat around. (24)
8. R11: sc around. (24)

Flatten the top slightly. Do not overstuff; the bag should look soft and pouch-like. FO and weave in the end.

Bag Flap

Join green yarn to the back top edge of the bag.

1. Row 1: sc 12 across the back top edge. Turn. (12)
2. Row 2: ch 1, sc across. Turn. (12)
3. Row 3: ch 1, dec, sc 8, dec. Turn. (10)
4. Row 4: ch 1, dec, sc 6, dec. Turn. (8)
5. Row 5: ch 1, sc across. FO. (8)

Fold the flap to the front. Sew the side edges lightly if needed, leaving the top looking like a small garden satchel.

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Bag Strap

Use grass green yarn.

1. Ch 65.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across.
3. FO, leaving tails for sewing.

Sew one end of the strap to each side of the bag. Place the strap over the doll from the right shoulder down to the left hip. Tack it lightly at the shoulder and under the jacket opening so it stays in place.

Bag Daisy

Use white and yellow yarn. Make one daisy for the front flap.

1. With yellow, 6 sc in MR, sl st to join. FO.
2. Join white to any st. Ch 3, dc in same st, ch 3, sl st in same st.
3. Repeat the petal sequence in each of the remaining 5 sts.

Sew the daisy to the front of the green bag. Add one tiny green leaf beside the flower with a short lazy daisy stitch.

Head Daisy Decoration

The hedgehog wears a white daisy near one side of the fuzzy hair. This flower is slightly larger than the jacket embroidery and sits above the left side of the face.

Large Daisy

Use yellow for the center and white for the petals.

1. With yellow, 6 sc in MR, sl st to join. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around, sl st to join. FO. (12)
3. Join white to any st. Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 3, sl st in same st.
4. Sl st in next st, then repeat one petal in the following st.
5. Continue around until you have 6 rounded petals.

FO with a sewing tail. Sew the daisy to the fuzzy cap above one eye, slightly off center. Add two small green leaves behind the daisy using ch 5, sc in second ch, hdc 2, sc 1, sl st to flower base.

Small Romper Flowers

The lower right side of the tan romper has tiny flower details. Make these as flat appliques or embroider them directly.

Tiny Flower Appliques

Make three tiny flowers in yellow, white, and brown tones.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR, sl st to join.
2. Petals: ch 2, sc in same st, sl st in next st; repeat around.

Sew the flowers to the lower right belly and hip area. Use green thread to add two tiny stems and leaves. Keep the decorations small so they do not compete with the jacket daisies.

Gray Watering Can

The watering can is small, soft, and gray, with a rounded body, side spout, and curved handle. It sits beside the doll in the photo, so it does not need to be attached unless you want a fixed display piece.

Can Body

Use gray yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. (24)
5. R5: BLO sc around. (24)
6. R6-R11: sc around. (24)
7. R12: sc 2, dec; repeat around. (18)
8. R13: BLO sc around. (18)
9. R14: sc 1, dec; repeat around. (12)

Stuff lightly. FO and close the opening. The body should look like a small bucket with a narrowed top.

Can Top Rim

Join gray yarn to the front loops left from R13.

1. R1: sc in each front loop around. (18)
2. R2: sl st loosely around. (18)

FO and weave in ends.

Spout

Use gray yarn.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2-R7: sc around. (5)
3. R8: sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1. (7)
4. R9: sc around. (7)

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FO with a sewing tail. Lightly stuff the wider end only. Sew the narrow end to one side of the watering can, angled slightly upward. Flatten the outer tip so it resembles the photo.

Handle

Use gray yarn.

1. Ch 22.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 21.
3. Turn, ch 1, sc 21 again along the row.

FO with long tails. Curve the strip into a handle and sew one end near the upper side and the other end near the lower opposite side of the can.

Garden Trowel

The trowel has a brown handle and a gray scoop-shaped blade. It is a simple accessory, but it helps complete the garden theme shown in the image.

Handle

Use warm brown yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2-R12: sc around. (6)

Stuff very lightly with tiny pieces of fiberfill or leave unstuffed if the tube is firm. FO and close the end.

Trowel Blade

Use gray yarn. Work in rows.

1. Row 1: ch 5. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4. Turn. (4)
2. Row 2: ch 1, inc, sc 2, inc. Turn. (6)
3. Row 3: ch 1, inc, sc 4, inc. Turn. (8)
4. Row 4-R6: ch 1, sc across. Turn. (8)
5. Row 7: ch 1, dec, sc 4, dec. Turn. (6)
6. Row 8: ch 1, dec, sc 2, dec. Turn. (4)
7. Row 9: ch 1, dec 2 times. Turn. (2)
8. Row 10: ch 1, dec. (1)

Sc evenly around the blade edge to smooth the shape. FO with a long tail. Sew the blade to the brown handle, placing the pointed end outward and the wider end at the handle.

Facial Shaping and Cheeks

To create the sweet expression, use a long strand of beige yarn to gently sculpt the eye area. Insert the needle under the head, come out beside one eye, go across to the other side, and return under the head. Pull very gently.

Do not over-tighten. The goal is a soft indentation that makes the cheeks round. Add blush with pink yarn stitches or a small amount of cosmetic blush. Place blush below the eyes and slightly outside the muzzle.

Assembly Order

1. Sew the muzzle to the head first, then embroider the nose and mouth.
2. Attach the fuzzy cap to the back and sides of the head.
3. Sew the ears partly under the fuzzy cap.
4. Place the turtleneck tube around the top of the body.
5. Sew the head to the body using the long head tail.
6. Sew arms to the upper sides of the body, angled downward.
7. Sew feet under the leg openings and add sandals.
8. Dress the doll in the blue jacket and secure it with tiny hidden stitches at the shoulders.
9. Add jacket daisy embroidery after the jacket is positioned, or embroider before dressing if preferred.
10. Place the green bag across the body and tack the strap at the shoulder.
11. Sew the large daisy to the fuzzy hair.
12. Arrange the watering can and trowel as separate accessories.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the doll from the front before fastening every final thread. The face should be centered, the fuzzy spines should frame the forehead, and the jacket should hang open evenly. Use pins first, then sew only when you are happy with the placement.

Secure the head with several passes around the neck so it does not wobble. Hide all yarn tails inside the body. Add extra shaping to the cheeks only after the head is fully attached, because the neck seam can slightly change the face angle.

For a neat expression, keep the nose rounded and compact. The vertical mouth line should stop above the lower muzzle edge. Add blush lightly; too much color can hide the soft stitch texture.

Care Notes

• Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if you used faux fur yarn, blush, or safety eyes.
• Press the doll gently in a towel to remove moisture.
• Air dry flat in a shaded place.
• Brush the fuzzy spines lightly with your fingers after drying.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Eyes are even and secure.
• Muzzle is centered between the eyes.
• Fuzzy head cap does not cover the eyes.
• Jacket opens neatly at the front.
• Daisy embroidery is secure on both jacket panels.
• Bag strap crosses from shoulder to opposite hip.
• Sandals are firmly attached to both feet.
• Watering can and trowel are shaped and stuffed lightly.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the doll in a dry place away from direct sunlight. Long sun exposure can fade the pale blue jacket, green bag, and pink sandals. If the doll is displayed on wood or fabric, move it occasionally so the fibers do not flatten on one side.

To remove dust, use a soft dry cloth on the smooth crochet areas. For the fuzzy hedgehog spines, gently lift the fibers with your fingertips instead of brushing hard. Avoid pulling the faux fur strands, because they can loosen from the head cap.

If the doll becomes misshapen, gently squeeze and roll the stuffed areas back into place. Do not iron the doll. Steam can relax the stitches too much and may damage the fuzzy yarn, embroidery, or facial blush.

For long-term storage, wrap the doll loosely in tissue paper and place it in a breathable cotton bag. Keep the watering can and trowel beside the doll instead of pressing them against the face or jacket embroidery.