Mimosa Safari-Sweet Bunny – Knitting

Welcome to the adventurous and botanical world of the Mimosa Safari-Sweet Bunny. This project beautifully merges the rugged spirit of an explorer with the delicate, sunny charm of mimosa blossoms. Imagine a character ready to trek through tall grasses in search of rare flora, dressed in practical yet adorable attire.

To ensure your finished bunny achieves the durable, heirloom-quality finish seen in the photos, we highly recommend visiting your favorite local yarn shop to select the best materials. You will want to buy merino wool yarn in a soft oatmeal or biscuit shade for the bunny’s skin to create a warm, natural texture that is durable yet soft to the touch. The natural crimp of wool helps the stuffing settle evenly, creating a smooth silhouette.

For the intricate clothing, such as the textured mimosa dress and the structured safari jacket, consider purchasing cotton yarn or a sport-weight wool blend. These fibers provide excellent stitch definition, which is crucial for the bobbles and embroidery to stand out clearly. Before you begin, take a moment to check your knitting supplies; ensure you have a set of smooth bamboo knitting needles, a tapestry needle for assembly, and plenty of premium fiberfill. If you are ready to explore the wild meadows, check your knitting bag for stitch markers and let us cast on.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview and Design Philosophy

The Mimosa Safari-Sweet Bunny stands approximately 14 inches (35 cm) tall. The construction is designed to be robust, with the body and head knitted in pieces and seamed to allow for precise shaping of the curves. This method ensures the doll maintains its posture over time, whether she is observing nature or sitting on a shelf.

The wardrobe is a study in texture and thematic color. The dress features a cream base with yellow bobbles representing mimosa flowers, bordered by green leaves. The jacket is a practical olive green with pockets for storing treasures. The accessories are narrative-driven, including a canteen, compass, map, and a loyal beaver companion, adding layers of storytelling to the piece.

Materials and Tools Checklist

• Yarn A (Bunny Skin): 100g DK weight yarn in Oatmeal, Sand, or Light Beige.
• Yarn B (Dress Base): 80g DK weight yarn in Cream or Off-White.
• Yarn C (Jacket & Leaves): 60g DK weight yarn in Olive Green or Sage.
• Yarn D (Mimosa Flowers): 30g DK weight yarn in Bright Yellow or Goldenrod.
• Yarn E (Boots & Beaver): 40g DK weight yarn in Chocolate Brown.
• Yarn F (Accessories/Beaver Vest): Small amounts of Tan, Grey, and Light Blue.
• Needles: US 3 (3.25mm) straight needles for the main body and clothing.
• Needles (Detailing): US 2 (2.75mm) for the miniature accessories.
• Notions: Cable needle, tapestry needle, polyester fiberfill, two 9mm safety eyes (bunny), two small beads (beaver eyes), embroidery floss (black, brown, green), stitch holders, small buttons.

Gauge and Tension

The target gauge is 24 stitches and 30 rows equal to 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch. A firm gauge is essential for the stuffed components.

If your fabric is too loose, the stuffing will show through, detracting from the professional finish. If you are a loose knitter, consider sizing down your needles. Consistency is key when making matching limbs to ensure the bunny stands evenly.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• K: Knit
• P: Purl
• Sts: Stitches
• Inc: Increase (Knit into the front and back of the stitch – KFB).
• Dec: Decrease (Knit 2 together – K2tog).
• SSK: Slip, Slip, Knit (decrease).
• MB: Make Bobble (Knit into front, back, front, back of stitch, turn, knit 4, turn, p4, slip 2, k2tog, pass slipped stitches over).
• RS: Right Side
• WS: Wrong Side
• Stockinette Stitch: Knit on the Right Side, Purl on the Wrong Side.

Part 1: Constructing the Oatmeal Bunny Body

We begin the construction by knitting the legs individually. This provides a solid foundation for the doll to stand or sit. We will then join them to form the torso and continue seamlessly into the head.

Legs (Make 2)

Using Yarn A (Oatmeal) and US 3 needles, cast on 12 stitches. Leave a long tail for seaming later. This tail will be used to sew up the foot and the back of the leg.

• Row 1: Purl all stitches across the row. This sets up the wrong side.
• Row 2 (Increase): Knit into the front and back of every stitch. You will now have 24 stitches. This rapid increase creates the base of the foot pad.
• Row 3: Purl all stitches. Keep your tension even to avoid gaps.
• Row 4 (Increase): *Knit 1, Inc*, repeat from * to * to the end of the row. (36 sts). This widens the foot to create a cute, chubby paw.
• Rows 5-9: Work in stockinette stitch starting with a Purl row. This smooth section forms the height of the foot.
• Row 10 (Shape Foot): Knit 12, (K2tog) 6 times, Knit 12. (30 sts). This creates the instep of the foot, curving the fabric to form the toe area.
• Row 11: Purl all stitches.
• Row 12 (Shape Foot): Knit 9, (K2tog) 6 times, Knit 9. (24 sts). The foot is now taking its final shape.
• Row 13: Purl all stitches.
• Row 14 (Ankle Shaping): Knit 8, (K2tog) 4 times, Knit 8. (20 sts). This tightens the ankle to define the leg.
• Rows 15-42: Work straight in stockinette stitch. This long section forms the leg. Ensure your tension remains even here so both legs are identical in length.

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Break the yarn for the first leg and place the stitches on a stitch holder or a spare piece of yarn. Knit the second leg in the exact same manner, but do not break the yarn. We will use this working yarn to join the two pieces together.

Torso and Head

With the second leg on your needle, cast on 2 stitches (this forms the crotch space), then knit across the 20 stitches of the first leg from the holder.

• Row 43: You should now have 42 stitches on your needle. Ensure both legs are facing the same way (Right Side facing you).
• Row 44: Purl all stitches. Treat the new cast-on stitches carefully so they don’t stretch.
• Row 45 (Hip Increase): Knit 10, Inc, Knit 20, Inc, Knit 10. (44 sts). This increase helps shape the bunny’s bottom.
• Row 46: Purl all stitches.
• Row 47 (Hip Increase): Knit 11, Inc, Knit 20, Inc, Knit 11. (46 sts).
• Rows 48-68: Work straight in stockinette stitch. This forms the tummy area. Stuffing this area firmly later is key to a good shape.
• Row 69 (Decrease): *Knit 8, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to last 6 stitches, Knit 6. (42 sts). We are now beginning to shape the chest.
• Row 70: Purl all stitches.
• Row 71 (Decrease): *Knit 5, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (36 sts).
• Rows 72-76: Work straight in stockinette stitch to elongate the upper body slightly.
• Row 77 (Decrease): *Knit 4, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (30 sts).
• Row 78: Purl all stitches.
• Row 79 (Decrease): *Knit 3, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (24 sts).
• Row 80: Purl all stitches. This row marks the neck.

We will now transition directly into the head. It is important to stuff the neck very firmly during assembly to prevent the head from wobbling.

• Row 81 (Increase): *Knit 1, Inc*, repeat from * to * to the end. (36 sts). The head begins to widen immediately.
• Row 82: Purl all stitches.
• Row 83 (Increase): *Knit 2, Inc*, repeat from * to * to the end. (48 sts).
• Row 84: Purl all stitches.
• Row 85 (Increase): *Knit 7, Inc*, repeat from * to * to the end. (54 sts). This gives the bunny lovely chubby cheeks.
• Rows 86-106: Work straight in stockinette stitch. This height is necessary to give the bunny its classic round face and room for eye placement.
• Row 107 (Decrease): *Knit 7, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (48 sts). We begin closing the top of the head.
• Row 108: Purl all stitches.
• Row 109 (Decrease): *Knit 6, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (42 sts).
• Row 110: Purl all stitches.
• Row 111 (Decrease): *Knit 5, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (36 sts).
• Row 112: Purl all stitches.
• Row 113 (Decrease): *Knit 4, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (30 sts).
• Row 114 (Decrease): *Knit 3, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (24 sts).
• Row 115 (Decrease): *Knit 2, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (18 sts).
• Row 116 (Decrease): *Knit 1, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (12 sts).
• Row 117: K2tog across the row. (6 sts).

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the remaining loops using a tapestry needle, pull tight to close the top of the head, and secure with a knot.

Arms (Make 2)

Using Yarn A (Oatmeal), cast on 10 stitches.

• Row 1: Purl all stitches.
• Row 2 (Increase): Increase in every stitch. (20 sts).
• Rows 3-26: Work in stockinette stitch. This forms the length of the arm.
• Row 27: *Knit 2, K2tog*, repeat to the end. (15 sts). Shaping the shoulder.
• Row 28: Purl all stitches.
• Row 29: K2tog across to the last stitch, Knit 1. (8 sts).

Cut yarn, draw through stitches, and sew the side seam. Stuff the hand area firmly and the upper arm lightly to allow movement.

Ears (Make 2)

The ears are long and floppy, adding to the bunny’s gentle character. Using Yarn A, cast on 14 stitches.

• Rows 1-42: Work in stockinette stitch. You can make these longer or shorter depending on your preference.
• Row 43 (Decrease): SSK, Knit 10, K2tog. (12 sts). Tapering the tip.
• Row 44: Purl all stitches.
• Row 45 (Decrease): SSK, Knit 8, K2tog. (10 sts).
• Row 46: Purl all stitches.
• Row 47 (Decrease): SSK, Knit 6, K2tog. (8 sts).
• Row 48: Purl all stitches.
• Row 49 (Decrease): SSK, Knit 4, K2tog. (6 sts).
• Row 50: Purl all stitches.
• Row 51 (Decrease): SSK, Knit 2, K2tog. (4 sts).
• Row 52: K2tog twice. Fasten off.

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Part 2: The Mimosa Bobble Dress

This dress is designed to resemble the cheerful mimosa flower. It features a cream base with evenly spaced yellow bobbles throughout the skirt and bodice, and a green vine pattern at the hem.

Skirt with Bobble Texture

Using Yarn B (Cream), cast on 72 stitches.

• Rows 1-4: Knit every row (Garter Stitch) for a sturdy hem.
• Row 5 (Begin Vine Pattern): Join Yarn C (Olive Green). Work a stranded colorwork pattern of simple leaves for 6 rows. (e.g., *Knit 3 Cream, Knit 2 Green, Knit 1 Cream*).
• Rows 11-14: Work in stockinette stitch in Cream.
• Row 15 (Bobble Row): Join Yarn D (Yellow). *Knit 5 Cream, MB (Make Bobble in Yellow), Knit 6 Cream*, repeat across.
• Row 16: Purl all stitches in Cream.
• Rows 17-22: Work in stockinette stitch in Cream.
• Row 23 (Bobble Row): *Knit 11 Cream, MB (Yellow), Knit 12 Cream*. Offset the bobbles so they sit between the ones below.
• Rows 24-34: Continue this pattern, creating rows of bobbles every 8th or 10th row.

Waist and Bodice

We will now decrease for the waist to create a gathered look.

• Row 35 (Waist Decrease): *Knit 2, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (54 sts)
• Row 36: Purl all stitches.
• Row 37 (Waist Decrease): *Knit 4, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (45 sts)
• Rows 38-42: Work in stockinette stitch, continuing the bobble pattern on the chest if desired.
• Row 43 (Armhole Shaping): Knit 8, cast off 4 stitches, Knit 21, cast off 4 stitches, Knit 8.
• Row 44: Purl 8, cast on 4 stitches, Purl 21, cast on 4 stitches, Purl 8. (45 sts)
• Rows 45-48: Work in stockinette stitch.
• Row 49: Knit across (Garter ridge).
• Row 50: Cast off loosely.

Sew the back seam of the skirt up to the waist. Leave the bodice open and attach a small snap fastener.

Part 3: The Olive Safari Jacket

The jacket is knitted in Yarn C (Olive Green). It features a collar and patch pockets embroidered with mimosa sprigs.

Back Panel

Cast on 34 stitches.

• Rows 1-4: Knit every row (Garter Stitch) for the hem.
• Rows 5-20: Work in stockinette stitch.
• Row 21 (Armhole): Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. (28 sts)
• Rows 23-34: Work straight in stockinette stitch.
• Row 35: Cast off all stitches.

Left Front

Cast on 19 stitches.

• Rows 1-4: Knit every row.
• Rows 5-20: Work in stockinette stitch.
• Row 21: Cast off 3 stitches at the armhole edge.
• Rows 22-28: Work straight.
• Row 29 (Neck): Cast off 5 stitches at the neck edge.
• Row 30: Purl.
• Row 31: Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge.
• Row 35: Cast off remaining stitches.

Right Front

Work as for the Left Front, reversing the shaping for the armhole and neck.

Sleeves (Make 2)

Cast on 22 stitches.

• Rows 1-4: Knit every row.
• Rows 5-20: Work in stockinette stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of Row 8 and 16. (26 sts)
• Row 21: Cast off.

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Collar: After sewing the shoulders, pick up stitches around the neck opening. Knit 6 rows in Garter Stitch to create a fold-down collar. Cast off loosely.

Pockets: Knit two small squares (8 sts x 8 rows). Sew them to the front panels. Embroider yellow French knots and green stems on the pockets.

Part 4: The Fringed Moccasins

These boots add a rugged touch to the outfit.

• Sole: Using Yarn E (Chocolate Brown), cast on 12 stitches. Knit 10 rows.
• Upper: Pick up 30 stitches around the sole. Work 5 rows in stockinette.
• Toe: Knit 10, (K2tog) 5 times, Knit 10. Purl back. Knit 10, (K2tog) 3 times, Knit 9. Cast off.
• Fringe: Cut small lengths of brown yarn. Using a crochet hook, loop them around the ankle opening of the boots to create a fringe. Trim evenly.

Part 5: Safari Accessories

The Beaver Companion

Using Yarn E (Brown), US 2 needles.

• Body: Cast on 10 stitches. Increase to 20. Knit 10 rows. Decrease to 10. Draw through. Stuff firmly.
• Tail: Knit a flat, wide tail in a textured stitch (like seed stitch) and sew to the back.
• Teeth: Embroider two small white teeth.
• Outfit: Knit a tiny tan vest and a bucket hat for the beaver.

The Canteen

Using Yarn F (Tan).

• Knit two circles (cast on 4, increase to 16, decrease back to 4).
• Sew them together, stuffing lightly.
• Knit a long I-cord strap.
• Use a grey bobble for the cap.

The Compass

• Knit a small grey circle. Embroider a white face with a red and blue needle pointer.

The Map

• Knit a rectangle in Cream. Use green and blue embroidery floss to stitch a “map” design. Roll it up and tie with a piece of yarn.

Mimosa Bouquet

• Stems: Knit 3 Green I-cords.
• Flowers: Make clusters of yellow French knots along the top half of the stems.
• Tie the bouquet with twine.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

The assembly process is where your bunny truly comes to life. Take your time with these steps to ensure a professional finish.

1. Body Assembly: Using the mattress stitch, sew the back seam of the legs and the center back of the body. Stuff the legs firmly to ensure the bunny can stand (if propped) or sit nicely. Leave the very top of the legs slightly softer to allow for bending at the hips. Stuff the body firmly.
2. Head Assembly: Sew the back seam of the head. Stuff the head into a round shape, ensuring the cheeks are plump and symmetrical. Ensure the neck is stuffed very firmly to support the head.
3. Face:
   • Eyes: Insert the safety eyes between rows 90 and 91, spacing them about 9 stitches apart. If the head is already closed, you can use black embroidery thread to satin stitch the eyes.
   • Nose: Using dark brown embroidery floss, stitch a “Y” shape in the center of the face. Satin stitch a small triangle at the top of the “Y” for the nose to give it dimension.
4. Limbs: Sew the ears to the sides of the head, curving them slightly forward to frame the face. Sew the arms to the sides of the body just below the neck seam.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Because this is a handmade item, likely containing wool, it requires specific care to last for generations.

• Dusting: Regularly dust the bunny with a soft brush or a lint roller to prevent dirt buildup on the textured knits.
• Washing: Never machine wash this bunny if you used wool. Instead, spot clean with a damp cloth and mild wool detergent. If a full wash is absolutely necessary, submerge gently in cool water with wool wash, press out excess water (do not wring), and reshape on a towel to dry.
• Storage: Store out of direct sunlight to prevent the colors from fading. If storing for a long period, place in a breathable cotton bag with a lavender sachet to repel moths.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Have all loose ends been woven in securely?
• Are the safety eyes secured properly (if used)?
• Is the stuffing distributed evenly, without lumps?
• Is the neck sturdy enough? (If not, you may need to open a seam and add more stuffing).
• Are all accessories (like the beaver’s beads) securely stitched if the toy is intended for a child?

Your Mimosa Safari-Sweet Bunny is now complete. This project is a celebration of the spirit of adventure, the beauty of the wild, and the art of knitting. Whether she sits on a shelf with her map or is given as a gift to a fellow explorer, she is sure to bring a sense of wonder and outdoor joy to her new home.

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