The Marigold Garden Bunny – Crochet

The Marigold Garden Bunny – Crochet

If you love making heirloom-style amigurumi animals, this Marigold Garden Bunny is designed to look like a boutique handmade plush you’d see in a gift shop. The outfit layers, tiny accessories, and clean shaping pair beautifully with shopping keywords like amigurumi bunny doll, safety eyes, yarn kits, and handmade plush gifts.

This project is perfect for anyone who enjoys detailed doll clothing and collectible companions. You’ll use common buy-ready supplies such as cotton yarn, fiberfill stuffing, 10–12 mm safety eyes, a 2.25–3.0 mm hook, stitch markers, and embroidery thread—exactly the items people search for when buying crochet supplies online.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview

You will create a dressed bunny with a wide-brim garden hat, a brown pinafore dress over a white turtleneck top, brown shoes with strap-and-buckle details, and a marigold “pom” trim around the skirt and hat band.

Also included are three small props shown: a tiny tote bag, a mini raccoon helper wearing an apron, and a small garden shovel with a two-tone handle and a pale blade.

Size, Yarn, and Fabric Feel

Finished bunny size: about 10–12 in (25–30 cm) tall when seated upright, depending on yarn and hook tension. The look in the photo uses tight, compact stitches with minimal gaps.

Use a hook smaller than your yarn label suggests. The fabric should feel firm, “amigurumi-tight,” and able to hold shape without drooping.

Materials

  • Main bunny yarn: warm tan / light cocoa (worsted or DK cotton-blend works well)
  • Dress yarn: deep chocolate brown
  • Top yarn: white
  • Hat yarn: light oatmeal / beige
  • Marigold trim colors: golden yellow + burnt orange + small amount of olive/leaf green
  • Shoes: chocolate brown + golden mustard (for socks/accents)
  • Raccoon: gray-brown, cream, black (small amounts) + apron yarn (cream)
  • Tote bag: cream + small brown patch yarn
  • Shovel: light beige for handle + pale gray-blue for blade
  • Hook: 2.25–3.0 mm (choose for tight fabric)
  • Safety eyes: 10–12 mm glossy black
  • Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
  • Embroidery: brown or taupe thread for nose/mouth; black thread optional for eye detail
  • Notions: stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors
  • Optional structure: thin craft wire for ears (only if you want poseable ears; photo shows soft droop so wire is not required)
  • Hat ribbon: 1–1.5 in (2.5–4 cm) satin ribbon in orange, plus needle and thread to stitch bow in place
  • Shoe buckle look: embroidery floss in gold, or tiny decorative buckles if you have them

Stitches and Abbreviations

  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
  • dec = decrease (invisible decrease recommended)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • blo = back loop only
  • flo = front loop only
  • rnd = round
  • ( ) = repeat instructions inside parentheses
  • [ ] = stitch count at end of round

Gauge and Tension

Gauge is not critical, but the photo look depends on dense stitching. As a reference, 24–28 sc in 4 in (10 cm) is typical with DK cotton and a 2.5 mm hook.

If you see stuffing through stitches, go down a hook size. If your pieces feel stiff like cardboard, go up slightly.

Construction Notes

The bunny is made with a classic amigurumi build: head and body are separate pieces joined at the neck for crisp shape. Arms, legs, ears, and tail are sewn on. Clothing is removable except the socks detail (worked as color changes on legs) and the dress can be made removable or lightly tacked.

To match the photo, keep all shaping smooth: use invisible decreases and place increases evenly.

Bunny Head

Work in a continuous spiral. Use a stitch marker to track the first stitch of each round.

Head (tan)

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. [6]
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. [12]
  3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. [18]
  4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. [24]
  5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. [30]
  6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around. [36]
  7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around. [42]
  8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) around. [48]
  9. Rnd 9–16: sc around. [48]

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Place safety eyes between Rnd 12 and Rnd 13, about 8–9 stitches apart. The photo shows centered, friendly eyes with a slight wide-set look.

  1. Rnd 17: (6 sc, dec) around. [42]
  2. Rnd 18: (5 sc, dec) around. [36]
  3. Rnd 19: (4 sc, dec) around. [30]
  4. Rnd 20: (3 sc, dec) around. [24]
  5. Rnd 21: (2 sc, dec) around. [18]

Begin stuffing. Shape the face into a gentle oval by pressing the front slightly flatter than the back.

  1. Rnd 22: (sc, dec) around. [12]
  2. Rnd 23: dec around. [6]

Fasten off. Close the opening neatly and weave in ends.

Simple Snout Shaping and Nose

The bunny in the image has a small, centered snout with a subtle vertical seam and a tiny nose line.

  • Thread a long strand of tan yarn or matching embroidery thread.
  • Create a short horizontal stitch for the nose tip (about 2–3 stitches wide) centered below the eyes.
  • Stitch a short vertical line down from the nose, then a tiny “Y” split for the mouth.
  • Add a few small indent stitches from the inside to gently pull the snout area forward.

Bunny Ears (make 2)

The ears are long and soft, hanging down the sides of the face. They are slightly thicker at the base and narrower at the tip.

Ear (tan)

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. [6]
  2. Rnd 2: (sc, inc) around. [9]
  3. Rnd 3: (2 sc, inc) around. [12]
  4. Rnd 4–7: sc around. [12]
  5. Rnd 8: (2 sc, dec) around. [9]
  6. Rnd 9–26: sc around. [9]

Do not stuff the ear, or add only a whisper of stuffing near the base. Flatten the last round and sc across to close, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Bunny Body

The body is a rounded “doll torso” that supports the pinafore. Keep the bottom slightly flatter so the bunny stands nicely in shoes.

Body (tan)

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. [6]
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. [12]
  3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. [18]
  4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. [24]
  5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. [30]
  6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around. [36]
  7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around. [42]
  8. Rnd 8–12: sc around. [42]
  9. Rnd 13: (5 sc, dec) around. [36]
  10. Rnd 14–16: sc around. [36]
  11. Rnd 17: (4 sc, dec) around. [30]
  12. Rnd 18–19: sc around. [30]
  13. Rnd 20: (3 sc, dec) around. [24]
  14. Rnd 21–22: sc around. [24]

Stuff firmly, especially the lower half. Keep the top (neck area) very firm so the head sits stable.

  1. Rnd 23: (2 sc, dec) around. [18]
  2. Rnd 24: sc around. [18]

Fasten off leaving a long sewing tail for attaching the head.

Arms (make 2)

Arms are slim tubes with gentle rounded hands, positioned slightly forward to match the photo’s relaxed pose.

Arm (tan)

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. [6]
  2. Rnd 2: (sc, inc) around. [9]
  3. Rnd 3–5: sc around. [9]
  4. Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) around. [6]
  5. Rnd 7–18: sc around. [6]

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Lightly stuff the hand area, then very lightly up the arm so it stays soft. Flatten the opening and sc across to close. Leave a long tail.

Legs, Socks, and Shoes Foundation

The bunny wears mustard socks and brown shoes. To keep the look clean, work the legs in tan, then add socks as a separate “tube cuff” or as a color-change section. Below is a color-change method for a seamless look.

Leg (make 2)

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (tan). [6]
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. [12]
  3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. [18]
  4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. [24]
  5. Rnd 5: sc around. [24]
  6. Rnd 6: (3 sc, dec) around. [18]
  7. Rnd 7: sc around. [18]
  8. Rnd 8: (2 sc, dec) around. [12]
  9. Rnd 9: sc around. [12]

Switch to mustard for socks.

  1. Rnd 10–14: sc around. [12]

Switch back to tan for upper leg (this part is hidden under the dress).

  1. Rnd 15–20: sc around. [12]

Stuff firmly. Flatten opening and sc across to close. Leave long tail.

Tail

The tail is small and subtle, mostly hidden by the dress. Keep it compact and lightly stuffed.

Tail (tan)

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. [6]
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. [12]
  3. Rnd 3: sc around. [12]
  4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) around. [9]
  5. Rnd 5: sc around. [9]

Stuff lightly. Fasten off leaving a sewing tail.

White Turtleneck Top

The bunny wears a white short-sleeve top with a higher neck. This top fits close to the body and sits under the pinafore straps.

Work the shirt as a simple body sleeve piece that slips on. If you prefer, you can tack it at the back so it stays smooth.

Shirt (white)

Start at neckline and work downward in rounds. Make sure it fits snugly over the tan torso.

  1. Rnd 1: ch 30, join to form ring (do not twist). [30]
  2. Rnd 2–4: sc around. [30]

Shape shoulders and arm openings.

  1. Rnd 5: sc 6, ch 6 (skip 6), sc 12, ch 6 (skip 6), sc 6. [30 with openings]
  2. Rnd 6: sc around, placing sc into each ch stitch of openings. [30]
  3. Rnd 7–10: sc around. [30]

Split for body length and sleeves. You can work the sleeves first, then the body.

Sleeves (make 2)

Attach yarn at one arm opening.

  1. Rnd 1: sc evenly around opening (about 12 sc). [12]
  2. Rnd 2–3: sc around. [12]

Fasten off. Repeat for second sleeve.

Body

Continue from underarm area.

  1. Rnd 11–16: sc around. [30]

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Fasten off. The shirt should look like a neat white base layer with a modest neck.

Brown Pinafore Dress

The dress in the photo is a deep brown pinafore with a fitted bib, thin straps, and a flared skirt. The hem is trimmed with marigold puff “flowers” in alternating yellow and orange with tiny green leaves peeking between.

Dress Skirt (brown)

Work from waist down. This skirt is designed to sit over the white top and tan body, ending around the mustard socks.

  1. Rnd 1: ch 36, join to form ring. [36]
  2. Rnd 2: sc around. [36]
  3. Rnd 3: (5 sc, inc) around. [42]
  4. Rnd 4: sc around. [42]
  5. Rnd 5: (6 sc, inc) around. [48]
  6. Rnd 6: sc around. [48]
  7. Rnd 7: (7 sc, inc) around. [54]
  8. Rnd 8–10: sc around. [54]
  9. Rnd 11: (8 sc, inc) around. [60]
  10. Rnd 12–15: sc around. [60]
  11. Rnd 16: (9 sc, inc) around. [66]
  12. Rnd 17–19: sc around. [66]

Try the skirt on the bunny body. It should flare gently and look like a classic pinafore shape. Add or remove 1–2 even increase rounds if needed for your yarn.

Dress Bib (brown)

The bib is a rectangle panel sewn to the front waist. Work in rows for crisp edges.

  1. Row 1: ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. [14]
  2. Row 2–10: ch 1, turn, sc across. [14]

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Straps (make 2, brown)

  1. Ch 26–30 (adjust for your bunny height).
  2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across for a sturdier strap.

Fasten off leaving sewing tails.

Dress Assembly Fit

  • Sew the bib centered to the front waist of the skirt.
  • Attach straps to the top corners of the bib.
  • Cross straps straight over shoulders and sew to the back waist.
  • For a removable dress, sew small loops and use tiny buttons; for a photo-true look, stitch straps down flat.

Marigold Puff Trim for Skirt Hem

The hem is decorated with many small puff “flowers.” In the photo they look like round, bobbly clusters in alternating yellow and orange, with occasional green hints between. You will make multiple puffs and stitch them around the hem edge.

Marigold Puff (make 26–34 total)

Make about half in golden yellow and half in burnt orange, adjusting count to fit your skirt circumference.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. [6]
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. [12]
  3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. [18]
  4. Rnd 4: sc around. [18]
  5. Rnd 5: (sc, dec) around. [12]

Stuff lightly so it stays round but not stiff.

  1. Rnd 6: dec around. [6]

Fasten off and close. Leave a long tail for attaching.

Tiny Leaf Accent (optional, make 12–18, green)

Use these sparingly so the trim still reads as mostly yellow/orange like the photo.

  1. Ch 5.
  2. In 2nd ch from hook: sl st, then sc, then hdc, then sc.
  3. Sl st back into first chain to form a small leaf shape.

Fasten off, leave a short tail.

Attach Trim to Skirt

Pin puffs around the hem in a pleasing alternating sequence: yellow, orange, yellow, orange. Add a green leaf every 2–3 puffs if desired.

  • Sew each puff firmly through its center base to the skirt hem.
  • Keep puffs touching so the trim becomes a continuous marigold border.
  • Make sure the trim sits on the outside edge, not folded under.

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Wide-Brim Garden Hat

The hat is beige with a rounded crown and a wide brim. Around the base of the crown sits a marigold puff garland. An orange satin ribbon wraps the crown and forms a side bow.

Hat Crown (beige)

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. [6]
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. [12]
  3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. [18]
  4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. [24]
  5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. [30]
  6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around. [36]
  7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around. [42]
  8. Rnd 8–13: sc around. [42]

The crown should be dome-shaped and fit comfortably over the bunny head without compressing the ears too tightly.

Hat Brim (beige)

Continue from the crown. Work increases to flare outward into a flat brim.

  1. Rnd 14: (6 sc, inc) around. [48]
  2. Rnd 15: (7 sc, inc) around. [54]
  3. Rnd 16: (8 sc, inc) around. [60]
  4. Rnd 17: (9 sc, inc) around. [66]
  5. Rnd 18: sc around. [66]
  6. Rnd 19: (10 sc, inc) around. [72]
  7. Rnd 20: sc around. [72]

To keep the brim from ruffling, stop increasing once it lays mostly flat. If you see waves, remove one increase round. If it curls up, add one more gentle increase round.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Hat Marigold Garland

Make 18–24 marigold puffs (same as skirt puffs) and stitch around the base of the crown where the brim begins. Alternate yellow and orange to match the photo’s warm ring.

Add a few tiny green leaves between puffs if you want extra realism, but keep it subtle.

Orange Ribbon Bow

Wrap orange satin ribbon around the crown, covering the join between crown and brim. Stitch the ribbon in place with matching thread so it does not slip.

Form a medium bow and sew it slightly to the left side (as seen in the photo), with one tail hanging down a bit longer than the other.

Shoes (brown) with Strap Details

The bunny’s shoes are brown with a rounded toe and a strap detail across the top. The photo shows a small buckle look on the outer side.

These shoes are made as separate slip-on pieces that go over the mustard sock section of the legs.

Shoe Base (make 2, brown)

  1. Rnd 1: ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch.
  2. Continue on other side of chain: sc 4, 2 sc in last. [14]
  3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 4, inc x3, sc 4, inc x2. [20]
  4. Rnd 3: sc, inc, sc 4, (sc, inc) x3, sc 4, (sc, inc) x2. [26]
  5. Rnd 4: sc around. [26]

Create the shoe wall.

  1. Rnd 5: sc around in blo. [26]
  2. Rnd 6–8: sc around. [26]
  3. Rnd 9: (11 sc, dec) twice. [24]
  4. Rnd 10: sc around. [24]
  5. Rnd 11: (10 sc, dec) twice. [22]
  6. Rnd 12: sc around. [22]

Try on the leg. The opening should grip around the sock section. If loose, add another decrease round spaced evenly.

  1. Rnd 13: (9 sc, dec) twice. [20]
  2. Rnd 14: sc around. [20]

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Shoe Strap (make 2, brown)

  1. Ch 10–12.
  2. Sc across starting in 2nd chain from hook.

Sew strap across the top of the shoe opening. Stitch one end down firmly, then stitch the other end slightly to the side so it looks like it fastens near the outer ankle.

Buckle Look

  • With gold embroidery floss, stitch a small rectangle “buckle” on the outer side.
  • Add a tiny vertical stitch as the buckle tongue.
  • Keep it simple so it reads clearly at small scale.

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Tote Bag (cream) with Brown Patch

The tote is a small cream bag with two sturdy handles and a brown patch detail on the front. The photo shows a neat, boxy shape.

Bag Base (cream)

  1. Rnd 1: ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 10, 3 sc in last ch.
  2. Continue on other side: sc 10, 2 sc in last. [26]
  3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 10, inc x3, sc 10, inc x2. [32]
  4. Rnd 3: sc, inc, sc 10, (sc, inc) x3, sc 10, (sc, inc) x2. [38]
  5. Rnd 4: sc around. [38]

Bag Walls

  1. Rnd 5: sc around in blo. [38]
  2. Rnd 6–12: sc around. [38]

Fasten off. Lightly shape with fingers. You may add a small piece of felt at the bottom inside for structure if desired.

Handles (make 2, cream)

  1. Ch 18–22 (for a small loop handle).
  2. Sl st back to first chain to form a ring, or sew ends together.
  3. Work 1–2 rounds of sc around the ring to thicken.

Sew handles to the inside top edge, spaced evenly so they stand upright like the photo.

Front Patch (brown)

The patch looks like a small rounded rectangle or heart-like pocket. Make a simple applique.

  1. Ch 6.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. [5]
  3. Row 2–4: ch 1, turn, sc across. [5]

Round the corners with a few extra sc along the sides if needed. Sew centered on the bag front.

Mini Raccoon Helper

The raccoon is a tiny companion with a cream face area, dark eye mask, small ears, and a ringed tail. It wears a simple cream apron with a small brown patch on the front, matching the bunny’s garden theme.

Raccoon Head (gray-brown)

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. [6]
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. [12]
  3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. [18]
  4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. [24]
  5. Rnd 5–7: sc around. [24]

Add small 6–8 mm safety eyes between Rnd 6 and Rnd 7, about 5–6 stitches apart, or embroider eyes if you prefer.

  1. Rnd 8: (2 sc, dec) around. [18]
  2. Rnd 9: (sc, dec) around. [12]

Stuff firmly.

  1. Rnd 10: dec around. [6]

Fasten off and close.

Raccoon Face Patch (cream)

Create an oval patch that covers the muzzle area.

  1. Ch 5.
  2. Work around the chain: sc 3, 3 sc in last, sc 3 on other side, 2 sc in last. [11]
  3. Next rnd: inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2. [17]

Fasten off. Sew centered on the face.

Eye Mask (black or dark gray)

Make two small ovals and sew around the eyes to create the classic raccoon mask look.

  1. Ch 4, work 2 sc in 2nd ch, sc, 2 sc in last, sc on other side, sl st to close.

Sew one around each eye, keeping symmetry.

Raccoon Body (gray-brown)

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. [6]
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. [12]
  3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. [18]
  4. Rnd 4–6: sc around. [18]
  5. Rnd 7: (sc, dec) around. [12]
  6. Rnd 8–9: sc around. [12]

Stuff lightly so it stays small and sturdy. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the head on.

Raccoon Arms (make 2, gray-brown)

  1. Rnd 1: 5 sc in magic ring. [5]
  2. Rnd 2–5: sc around. [5]

Lightly stuff. Close and sew to sides of body.

Raccoon Ears (make 2)

Outer ear (gray-brown):

  1. Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. [4]
  2. Rnd 2: (sc, inc) twice. [6]

Inner ear (cream):

  1. Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring. [3]

Sew inner to outer, then attach ears to top of head.

Raccoon Tail (ringed)

Start with gray-brown, then add black stripes. The tail in the photo is small with clear banding.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. [6]
  2. Rnd 2: (sc, inc) around. [9]
  3. Rnd 3–4: sc around (gray-brown). [9]
  4. Rnd 5: sc around (switch to black). [9]
  5. Rnd 6: sc around (gray-brown). [9]
  6. Rnd 7: sc around (black). [9]
  7. Rnd 8–10: sc around (gray-brown). [9]

Lightly stuff. Close and sew to back of body.

Raccoon Apron (cream) with Patch

The apron is a simple bib with skirt and straps that wrap around the back.

  1. Row 1: ch 9, sc across. [8]
  2. Row 2–4: ch 1, turn, sc across. [8]

Apron skirt flare:

  1. Row 5: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 6, inc. [10]
  2. Row 6: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 8, inc. [12]
  3. Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across. [12]

Straps:

  • Ch 18–22 for each side tie, attach at upper corners.
  • Ch 10–12 for neck loop, attach at top center.

Patch (brown): make a tiny 4×3 sc rectangle and sew to apron front.

Garden Shovel Prop

The shovel has a pale gray-blue blade and a light beige handle. Keep stitches tight so it looks like a solid toy tool.

Blade (pale gray-blue)

  1. Row 1: ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. [8]
  2. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. [8]
  3. Row 3: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 4, dec. [6]
  4. Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. [6]
  5. Row 5: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2, dec. [4]
  6. Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across. [4]

Edging: work sc evenly around the blade to smooth the outline. Fasten off leaving a tail.

Handle (beige)

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. [6]
  2. Rnd 2–10: sc around. [6]

Stuff lightly. Flatten and close the top. Sew the open end securely to the top of the blade, centered.

Attaching the Bunny Parts

Before sewing, pin each piece in place and check symmetry from the front and side. Small shifts make a big difference in a doll-style finish.

Head to Body

  • Center the head on the body neck opening.
  • Sew with small, tight stitches all the way around.
  • Add extra stuffing at the neck if needed before closing.

Ears

  • Place ears starting slightly behind the eye line.
  • Sew the base of each ear along a 1–1.25 in (2.5–3 cm) section.
  • Let the rest of the ear hang freely to create the soft droop.

Arms

  • Attach arms just below the neckline, angled slightly forward.
  • The hands should rest near the skirt front when viewed from the front.

Legs

  • Sew legs to the lower body, spaced so the bunny stands balanced.
  • Keep the mustard sock section visible below the dress hem.

Tail

  • Attach tail centered on the back, slightly low so it peeks under the dress.

Dressing the Bunny

Put on the white shirt first. Smooth the neckline so it reads as a neat turtleneck. Then slide on the dress and align the bib centered.

After the dress is positioned, confirm the marigold hem trim forms a continuous ring with no gaps. Adjust any puff spacing before final stitches are tightened.

Slip the shoes onto the feet over the sock section. Turn the straps to the outer side and make sure both buckle details face outward.

Set the hat on the head so the brim frames the face. The orange bow should sit on the left side as shown, with the marigold garland visible around the crown.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check eye alignment and add gentle eye-socket shaping if desired by stitching from the back of the head, around the eye posts, and back again. Keep tension light so the expression stays sweet.

Reinforce the embroidered nose and mouth with a second pass of thread. Make sure the vertical mouth line is centered and short, matching the minimal look in the photo.

Care Notes

Keep the doll away from rough surfaces that can snag stitches. Display pieces out of direct sun to reduce fading of the marigold colors and ribbon.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Stitch tightness: no stuffing visible anywhere
  • Symmetry: ears even, eyes level, arms matched
  • Trim: marigold puffs touch with no big gaps
  • Hat: brim lies mostly flat, bow secured
  • Shoes: straps even, buckle look outward
  • Props: tote handles firm, raccoon apron centered, shovel blade attached straight

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a damp cloth and a tiny amount of gentle soap. Avoid soaking the ribbon. If deeper cleaning is needed, remove the hat and dress, hand wash clothing briefly, and reshape flat to dry.

For long-term storage, place the doll in a breathable cotton bag, keep accessories together, and support the brim with tissue so it stays crisp and round.

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