Hydrangea Harmony Bunny – Crochet

Meet Hydrangea Harmony Bunny, a soft, heirloom-style crochet rabbit dressed in a lavender-to-sky dress with lush hydrangea blooms. If you love browsing amigurumi bunny doll listings, shopping for cotton yarn, or comparing safety eyes and stuffing, this project is designed to look like a boutique handmade collectible.

The outfit details are the star: a blue beret with layered flowers, a sage-green vest, floral clusters across the skirt, and matching Mary Jane shoes. It’s perfect for makers who also like to shop for mini accessories, crochet doll clothing, and craft supplies to style finished dolls for photos or gift giving.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Important Notes for a Perfect Match to the Photo

This design is worked with tight stitches so the fabric looks smooth and firm, like in the image. Use a smaller hook than your yarn label suggests, and keep consistent tension. The bunny’s head is slightly larger than the torso, the ears are long and soft, and the dress flares into a gentle bell shape.

Read the whole project flow before starting. You will crochet the body parts first, then dress pieces, then build the hydrangea clusters and leaves, and finally add tiny props. The hydrangea flowers are layered and slightly raised, not flat embroidery, and the color placement is intentional for a realistic hydrangea look.

Finished Size and Yarn Choice

With DK/light worsted cotton and a 2.25–2.75 mm hook, the bunny will finish about 10–12 in (25–30 cm) tall from head to feet, similar to the photo. If you use thicker yarn, everything scales up. If you use thinner yarn, the doll becomes smaller and even more delicate.

Choose yarn with good stitch definition. Cotton or cotton-blend gives that clean, sculpted look shown. Acrylic also works, but the dress and appliqués may look softer and less crisp. Keep colors gentle: warm cream for the bunny, periwinkle-to-lavender for the dress, dusty sage for the vest, and hydrangea blues/purples/white for flowers.

Materials

• Yarn (DK/light worsted): Cream/Beige (bunny), Periwinkle, Lavender, Sky Blue (dress + shoes), Dusty Sage Green (vest + leaves), Deep Blue, Medium Blue, Light Blue, White, Soft Purple (flowers), Tiny bit of dark brown or taupe for nose/mouth stitching
• Hook: 2.25–2.75 mm (pick the size that makes a firm fabric)
• Safety eyes: 8–10 mm black (photo look: glossy black)
• Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill
• Tapestry needle for sewing and weaving ends
• Stitch markers (one for rounds, extra for placement)
• Scissors
• Thin craft wire (optional) for the butterfly wings if you want extra shape
• Felt (optional) tiny pads to stabilize shoes

Stitches and Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
• dec = invisible decrease
• sl st = slip stitch
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• blo = back loop only
• flo = front loop only
• (…) xN = repeat sequence N times

Work in continuous rounds for the bunny parts unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker to track the start of each round. For the clothing pieces, you will switch between rounds and rows depending on the section, and you will use flo/blo to create clean edges like in the photo.

Gauge and Tension Check

The exact gauge is less important than achieving a tight, even fabric so stuffing does not show. As a quick check, crochet a small swatch of single crochet. If you can see gaps between stitches when you stretch it, switch to a smaller hook. This also helps the face look smooth and refined.

Color Planning (Dress + Shoes)

The dress in the photo blends from lavender at the top to soft blue near the hem. You can do smooth stripes by changing colors every few rounds, or blend with close shades. The shoes match the dress gradient, and the outer rim is a cool blue. Keep the overall palette calm and pastel.

The Bunny (Head, Body, Arms, Legs, Ears, Tail)

Head (Cream)

The head is a round sphere with a slightly flattened bottom so it sits neatly on the neck. Place the eyes at about mid-height, spaced for a gentle expression. The muzzle is subtle and built by shaping and embroidery, not by adding a separate snout piece.

1. R1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
7. R7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)
8. R8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48)
9. R9–R16: sc around (48)

Insert safety eyes between R12 and R13, about 9–10 stitches apart (adjust for your yarn thickness). The photo shows a calm, sweet look, so keep the eyes fairly centered and not too wide. Add a small amount of stuffing now and shape the sphere gently.

1. R17: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42)
2. R18: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36)
3. R19: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)
4. R20: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
5. R21: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
6. R22: (sc, dec) x6 (12)
7. R23: dec x6 (6)

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Finish stuffing firmly but not rock-hard. Close the opening, weave in the end, and smooth the shape with your hands. The head should be slightly larger than the upper dress bodice, matching the “doll” proportion in the image.

Ears (Make 2, Cream)

The ears are long, softly rounded, and hang down the sides of the head. They are not stiff; they drape. To match the photo, keep the ear width moderate so the beret sits nicely without the ears looking too bulky.

1. R1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4–R7: sc around (18)
5. R8: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
6. R9–R16: sc around (24)
7. R17: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
8. R18–R24: sc around (18)

Flatten the ear. Do not stuff, or add only a whisper of stuffing near the base if you want a gentle curve. Leave a long tail for sewing. The finished ear should reach to about the bunny’s upper chest when attached.

Body (Cream)

The body is a simple torso that fits under the dress. Keep it slim because the dress adds volume. The neckline is small and clean so the head sits naturally. The photo shows the neck area covered by the dress straps and vest, so aim for neat shaping.

1. R1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
6. R6–R9: sc around (30)
7. R10: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
8. R11–R13: sc around (24)
9. R14: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
10. R15–R18: sc around (18)

Stuff the torso firmly, especially the lower half so the doll stands well. If you want extra stability like a display doll, place small pellets in a sealed pouch at the bottom before adding stuffing. Keep the top (neck) slightly softer for easy head attachment.

1. R19: (sc, dec) x6 (12)
2. R20–R21: sc around (12)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body. The neck opening stays at 12 stitches for a secure seam that won’t wobble.

Arms (Make 2, Cream)

The arms are slim and simple, ending in rounded “mitt” hands. They hang naturally at the sides under the vest. In the photo, the hands are visible and smooth, with no fingers, so keep the shaping minimal and neat.

1. R1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. R2: (sc, inc) x3 (9)
3. R3–R6: sc around (9)
4. R7: (2 sc, inc) x3 (12)
5. R8–R9: sc around (12)
6. R10: (2 sc, dec) x3 (9)
7. R11–R18: sc around (9)

Stuff lightly, mostly in the hand area. Keep the upper arm soft so it drapes. Flatten the top and close with 4–5 stitches through both layers. Leave a long tail for sewing to the body at shoulder level.

Legs (Make 2, Cream)

The legs are short and sturdy, built to fit inside the shoes. The bunny in the image stands straight, so keep both legs evenly stuffed and symmetrical. The feet are simple and will be covered by the shoe “uppers.”

1. R1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: sc around (18)
5. R5: (4 sc, inc) x3 (21)
6. R6–R7: sc around (21)
7. R8: (5 sc, dec) x3 (18)
8. R9–R13: sc around (18)
9. R14: (4 sc, dec) x3 (15)
10. R15–R18: sc around (15)

Stuff firmly. Shape the lower foot so it is slightly oval. Flatten the top and close. Leave a long tail for sewing legs onto the body. The legs should be placed so the bunny stands balanced, with a small gap between them like in the photo.

Tail (Cream)

The tail is small and subtle, mostly hidden by the dress. Keep it compact so it does not push the skirt outward too much. It should feel like a little bump under the clothing.

1. R1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: sc around (12)
4. R4: (sc, dec) x4 (8)

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Stuff lightly and sew closed. Leave a tail for attaching.

Dress (Lavender to Blue with Hydrangea Appliqués)

Dress Bodice (Worked Top-Down)

The dress has a fitted bodice with a wide, flared skirt. The stitch texture is simple and even, so the appliqués stand out. The top is lavender/periwinkle, gradually shifting to a cooler blue as you approach the hem.

Start at the neckline. Make a foundation that fits snugly around the bunny’s upper torso. If your bunny is taller or wider, add a few stitches, but keep the bodice fitted like the photo.

1. Ch 36, join to form a ring (do not twist). (36)
2. R1: ch 1, sc around, join (36)
3. R2: ch 1, (5 sc, inc) x6, join (42)
4. R3: ch 1, sc around, join (42)
5. R4: ch 1, (6 sc, inc) x6, join (48)
6. R5–R7: ch 1, sc around, join (48)

Create arm openings by splitting the round. The photo shows sleeveless straps, so the armholes are modest. You will form two strap sections and a back section. Mark the sides of the bodice on the bunny to confirm placement before committing.

1. R8 (strap shaping): sc 10, ch 6, skip 6, sc 18, ch 6, skip 6, sc 10, join
2. R9: sc around, placing sc into chains as you go, join
3. R10: sc around, join

Try the bodice on the bunny. The top edge should sit just below the head seam, and the straps should look centered. If the straps feel loose, reduce the chain count; if tight, add 1–2 chains. Aim for a clean, neat neckline because it’s visible under the vest.

Skirt (Flare into a Bell Shape)

Switch gradually from lavender to periwinkle, then to light blue as you continue. The skirt flare should be gentle, not a stiff cone. The photo shows a smooth bell with a rounded hem. Use evenly spaced increases every few rounds to keep it flowing.

1. R11: (7 sc, inc) x6, join
2. R12: sc around, join
3. R13: (8 sc, inc) x6, join
4. R14: sc around, join
5. R15: (9 sc, inc) x6, join
6. R16: sc around, join
7. R17: (10 sc, inc) x6, join
8. R18: sc around, join
9. R19: (11 sc, inc) x6, join
10. R20: sc around, join
11. R21: (12 sc, inc) x6, join
12. R22–R24: sc around, join

Stop when the skirt reaches the bunny’s ankles, leaving room for shoes to show. The hem should sit slightly above the top of the shoes like in the image. If needed, add one more plain round in the bluest shade to match the cool edge.

Hem Edge

The hem in the photo looks tidy and slightly defined. Use a simple finishing round that adds structure without ruffles. Keep it smooth so the small flower at the lower skirt remains visible and not distorted.

1. Final round: ch 1, (sc in blo around) join, fasten off

Vest (Dusty Sage Green)

The vest is short, open-front, and gently rounded at the bottom edges. The inside shows a floral print-like detail in the photo; to mimic that look in crochet, you can add small surface accents or a narrow contrast edging. Keep the vest thin so it drapes naturally over the dress bodice.

Vest Back Panel

1. Ch 26, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (25)
2. Rows 2–10: ch 1, turn, sc across (25)

The back panel should cover the bunny’s upper back without reaching the waistline. Keep it cropped so the dress skirt flare is still visible. If you want a more fitted look, taper the sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each side every few rows.

Vest Front Panels (Make 2)

1. Ch 14, sc in 2nd ch and across (13)
2. Rows 2–8: ch 1, turn, sc across (13)
3. Row 9 (neck shaping): ch 1, turn, sc 10, turn (10)
4. Rows 10–11: ch 1, turn, sc across (10)

Join front panels to the back panel at the shoulders using whip stitch or sc seam. Leave armholes roomy so the arms can sit naturally. Add an edging around all outer edges for a crisp outline that matches the photo’s clean finishing.

Vest Edging

1. With right side facing, join yarn at lower edge.
2. Work sc evenly around: 1 sc per row on sides, 1 sc per stitch along top and bottom.
3. At corners, place (sc, ch 1, sc) to keep edges flat.
4. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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Optional “floral lining illusion”: add tiny surface stitches in pale pink and soft purple on the inside edge only, spaced far apart. Keep it subtle so it reads like a printed lining without becoming busy.

Beret Hat (Blue)

The hat is a soft beret with a gentle dome and wider brim. It sits low on the head and slightly tilted. The flower cluster attaches to one side, and the ears remain outside the hat, framing the face like in the image.

1. R1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
7. R7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)
8. R8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48)
9. R9: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54)
10. R10: sc around (54)
11. R11: (8 sc, inc) x6 (60)
12. R12: sc around (60)

Now shape the beret downward so it cups the head. If your bunny head is smaller, you can reduce one increase round. The goal is a slightly oversized beret top, then a narrower band so it stays in place.

1. R13: (8 sc, dec) x6 (54)
2. R14: sc around (54)
3. R15: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48)
4. R16: sc around (48)
5. R17: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42)
6. R18–R20: sc around (42)
7. R21 (band): sc in blo around (42)

Fasten off with a long tail. Test fit: it should rest comfortably, with the band sitting around the upper head. You can tack-stitch the hat to the head in a few hidden places so it stays tilted for photos.

Hydrangea Flowers (3D Blossoms)

The hydrangea look comes from many small blossoms grouped into clusters with leaves. In the photo you can see deep blue, medium blue, pale blue, white, and soft purple. Make a mix of blossoms and stack them. Avoid making all flowers identical; small variation creates the natural bouquet feel.

Small 5-Petal Blossom (Make 25–40 in Mixed Colors)

1. MR, ch 1, work 10 sc into ring, join (10)
2. For each petal: (sl st in next st, ch 2, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st)
3. Repeat around for 5 petals, fasten off leaving a sewing tail.

Make blossoms in white and pale blue for highlights. Make fewer in deep blue so the cluster does not become too dark. If you want extra dimension, lightly pinch each petal and stitch a tiny tack at the base so petals cup upward.

Layered Blossom (Make 10–14, Two-Tone)

To mimic the more dimensional blooms in the dress bouquet, layer a smaller blossom on top of a larger one. Use two close colors like medium blue + pale blue, or soft purple + white. The layered result looks like a fuller hydrangea floret.

1. Make one Small 5-Petal Blossom as above.
2. Make a second blossom in a contrasting color.
3. Stack them offset so petals alternate, stitch through centers to secure.

Leaves (Sage Green)

The leaves in the photo are pointed ovals with a slight midrib texture. Make several sizes: small leaves for the hem flowers and larger leaves for the big bouquet on the skirt. A simple stitched vein down the center adds realism without overcomplicating.

Medium Leaf (Make 10–14)

1. Ch 10
2. Working down chain: sc in 2nd ch, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc
3. In last ch: 3 sc (to turn)
4. Working up other side: sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc
5. Sl st to first sc, fasten off leaving tail.

Optional vein: with a lighter green or the same yarn, surface stitch a straight line from tip to base. Keep it subtle so it supports the flower cluster without drawing attention away from the pastel blossoms.

Small Leaf (Make 6–10)

1. Ch 7
2. sc in 2nd ch, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc
3. 3 sc in last ch, then mirror back up the chain

Dress Appliqué Placement (Match the Photo)

The dress has three main flower moments: a large hydrangea bouquet on the front-right of the skirt, a small flower cluster near the lower-left hem, and another small cluster near the lower-right hem. The bouquet includes multiple leaves that fan outward.

• Main bouquet: Place it on the bunny’s right front hip area, slightly above mid-skirt. Use 12–18 blossoms layered and stacked, plus 4–6 medium leaves.
• Lower-left flower: Place near the hem on the bunny’s left front, made with 3–5 blossoms and 1–2 small leaves.
• Lower-right flower: Place near the hem on the bunny’s right front, made with 3–5 blossoms and 1–2 small leaves.

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Build the main bouquet off the dress first. Arrange blossoms into a mound: deep blue in the center, medium blue and purple around it, and pale blue/white at the edges. Stitch blossoms to each other at the centers, then sew the whole bouquet to the skirt with many small stitches.

Add leaves last. Tuck leaf bases under the blossoms and stitch them firmly so they do not flop. The leaf tips should point outward like a bouquet. Once attached, gently fluff the blossoms by lifting petals so the cluster looks full and dimensional.

Butterfly Accent (Blue + Purple)

The butterfly sits near the bunny’s right side, close to the bouquet, like it’s hovering or lightly resting. Keep it delicate and light. You can attach it with a few stitches so it stands slightly away from the dress for a “floating” effect.

Butterfly Wings (Make 2 Identical Pairs)

1. Ch 4, sl st to form a ring.
2. Into ring: (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sl st) for one large wing.
3. Into ring: (ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, sl st) for one small wing.
4. Repeat once more to create the second side, fasten off.

Butterfly body: wrap yarn around a small bundle (or crochet a tiny tube: ch 4, sc around for 3 rounds). Stitch the wings at the center and pinch slightly so they angle upward. Optional: insert thin wire along wing edges before attaching, then cover wire with slip stitches for shape.

Shoes (Mary Jane Style, Gradient)

The shoes are rounded with a strap and a small flower on top, matching the dress colors. Make the sole and upper in soft blues and lavender. The shoe opening should hug the foot so it looks tidy in photos.

Shoe Base (Make 2)

1. Ch 8 (blue), sc in 2nd ch and across (7)
2. Work around the chain: 3 sc in last ch, sc back along other side, 2 sc in first ch, join.
3. Next round: inc at both ends to oval the sole, keeping sides mostly straight.

Once the sole fits the foot, build the upper by working sc in blo for one round, then continue sc rounds to form walls. Change color subtly from lavender to pale blue to mimic the dress gradient. Stop when the upper reaches the ankle line shown in the photo.

Strap

1. Join yarn at one side of shoe opening.
2. Ch 10–14 (depending on your foot size), sl st to opposite side.
3. Work back with sc across the chain for thickness, fasten off.

Add a small hydrangea blossom to the top of each shoe, centered and slightly toward the toe. Use 1–2 small leaves if desired, but keep it minimal so the shoes don’t look bulky. The photo shows a single prominent flower cluster per shoe.

Mini Basket/Vase Prop (Cream)

The small prop at the bunny’s feet looks like a tiny basket or vase with a handle. Keep it smooth and simple in the same cream tone as the bunny. It should be sturdy enough to stand on its own and small enough to look like a doll accessory.

Basket Body

1. R1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5: sc in blo around (24)
6. R6–R12: sc around (24)
7. R13: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
8. R14–R15: sc around (18)

Stuff lightly so it holds shape. If you want it hollow like a basket, skip stuffing and add a stiff felt circle inside the base. Close or leave open depending on your preference. The photo shows a closed top edge with an opening-like rim, so an open top with a neat rim works best.

Handle

1. Ch 26–34 (adjust for a tall arch).
2. Sc back along chain for thickness, fasten off.
3. Sew ends to opposite sides of basket rim.

Mini Label Sign Prop (HYDRANGEA HARMONY)

The small sign is a stitched label with a light border and the words “HYDRANGEA HARMONY.” Use surface stitching to create letters. Keep it simple, blocky, and readable, and stitch the edges neatly so it looks like a tiny fabric tag.

Sign Base (White)

1. Ch 18, sc in 2nd ch and across (17)
2. Rows 2–8: ch 1, turn, sc across (17)
3. Border: join pale blue, sc evenly around all edges, placing (sc, ch 1, sc) at corners.

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Lettering: use pale blue yarn and a tapestry needle to surface-stitch “HYDRANGEA” on the top line and “HARMONY” on the second line. Use simple straight stitches and keep letter spacing even. Weave ends securely on the back.

Order of Work

• Crochet head, body, arms, legs, ears, tail.
• Make dress first and test fit on the bunny.
• Crochet vest and test fit over the dress.
• Make shoes and confirm the bunny stands evenly.
• Crochet beret and attach floral cluster.
• Create hydrangea blossoms and leaves, then attach to dress and hat.
• Make butterfly and attach near the dress bouquet.
• Make basket/vase and sign prop.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew legs to the bottom of the torso, aligned so the bunny stands straight. Attach arms at the upper sides, slightly forward. Sew the tail centered on the back. Sew the head to the neck with strong stitches all around. Attach ears to the head sides, slightly behind the eyes.

For the face, stitch a small vertical nose line and a short split mouth line in taupe or light brown. Keep it tiny and centered, matching the photo’s minimal expression. Lightly shape cheeks with your fingers after stitching to soften the look.

Care Notes

Display pieces like this look best when kept away from direct sunlight and humidity. Handle the hydrangea appliqués gently so petals keep their shape. If the doll is used as a child’s toy, double-knot and secure all attachments, and consider embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Eyes level and evenly spaced
• Head firmly attached with no wobble
• Dress hem even and sitting above the shoes
• Main bouquet full, centered on right front skirt
• Hat sits slightly tilted with flowers on one side
• Shoes symmetrical and straps snug
• All yarn tails woven in securely

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap, then blot dry. Avoid soaking, especially around the blossoms, because layered petals can lose shape. For dust, use a soft brush or a cool hair-dryer setting from a distance. Store in a breathable box with tissue to protect flowers and prevent crushing.