Hollyhock Window-Frill Bunny – Knitting

This sweet bunny set is designed to look like a collectible handmade soft toy with boutique charm. The finished piece includes a floppy-eared bunny, a slouchy beret with tiny blossoms, a puff-sleeve pullover, a double-frill skirt, neat Mary Jane shoes, a small window-style crossbody bag, a plump blue bird, a tiny book, and a separate hollyhock stem. If you enjoy searching for handmade bunny doll knit set, knitted stuffed rabbit gift, heirloom nursery toy, or artisan spring bunny decor, this design brings all of those shopping-inspired details into one polished project.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design is worked mainly in stockinette stitch with careful shaping and clean finishing. The bunny has a rounded head, a softly filled pear-shaped body, short tapered arms, long gentle ears, sturdy feet, and a calm centered face.

The outfit is a major part of the look. The cream pullover sits close to the body, has rounded puff sleeves, and carries raised floral decoration on the front. The skirt is pale blue and falls in two layered ruffles.

The accessories complete the scene. The beret sits low and slightly slouched, the crossbody bag hangs diagonally across the front, and the shoes are simple and rounded. The small bird, little book, and hollyhock stem echo the colors of the main doll.

Finished Size

• Bunny: about 10 to 11 inches tall from feet to top of head, not including beret
• Beret diameter: about 4 inches across when laid flat
• Bird: about 3 inches tall
• Book: about 1 inch tall
• Flower stem: about 5 inches long
• Bag: about 1 1/2 inches wide and 2 inches tall, excluding strap

Materials

• Sport or light DK yarn in warm beige for bunny head, arms, ears, and legs
• Cream yarn for pullover, shoes, and part of the bird body
• Pale blue yarn for skirt, book cover, and bird wings
• Taupe or mushroom yarn for beret, bag edging, and bird cap
• Pink, deep rose, mauve, lavender, green, and olive scraps for flowers and leaves
• Tiny amount of rust or cinnamon for bird chest
• Black yarn or black embroidery thread for eyes
• Cream sewing thread or matching yarn for invisible seaming
• Toy stuffing
• Small piece of firm felt or thin card for book insert
• Optional thin floral wire for hollyhock stem support

Tools

• US 1.5 to US 2 knitting needles for flat knitting
• Set of double-pointed needles in a similar size if you prefer working tiny pieces in the round
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Row counter
• Small crochet hook only for pulling yarn tails through, optional

Gauge

Gauge is not critical in the same way it would be for fitted garments, but it matters for proportions. Aim for a firm stockinette fabric that does not show stuffing through the stitches.

• Approximate gauge: 28 to 32 stitches and 38 to 42 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch
• If your fabric looks loose, go down a needle size
• If your toy becomes too stiff to shape neatly, go up a needle size

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• G st = garter stitch
• inc = increase 1 stitch
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• rep = repeat
• rem = remaining

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Construction Notes

• The bunny is made in separate pieces and sewn together
• Most pieces are worked flat and seamed
• Keep all seams narrow so the toy stays soft and rounded
• Stuff gradually and evenly
• The face must sit low on the head, with the eyes spaced modestly apart
• The ears are attached behind the side line of the face so they fall softly downward
• The sweater is worked separately and sewn closed at the back
• The skirt is worked from the waist downward with two ruffled tiers

Bunny Head

The head is softly oval, slightly wider at the cheeks than at the top, with a gentle taper under the chin. Make two identical head pieces in beige.

1. CO 14 stitches.
2. Row 1 WS: P all stitches.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 16 stitches.
4. Row 3: P all stitches.
5. Row 4: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 18 stitches.
6. Row 5: P all stitches.
7. Row 6: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 20 stitches.
8. Row 7: P all stitches.
9. Row 8: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 22 stitches.
10. Rows 9 to 23: Work in St st, starting with a purl row.
11. Row 24: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 20 stitches.
12. Row 25: P all stitches.
13. Row 26: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 18 stitches.
14. Row 27: P all stitches.
15. Row 28: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 16 stitches.
16. Row 29: P all stitches.
17. Row 30: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 14 stitches.
18. BO loosely on WS row.

Join the two head pieces with mattress stitch, leaving the lower edge open. Stuff firmly but keep the face surface smooth, not overpacked. Close the lower edge after attaching to the body.

Muzzle Shaping

The face in the image has a softly defined muzzle rather than a pronounced snout. After stuffing, run a length of matching yarn horizontally through the lower third of the face front and lightly draw it in. This creates the shallow muzzle plane.

Do not pull too hard. The finished shape should remain rounded, with only a gentle change in angle below the eyes. Secure the shaping yarn invisibly at the back of the head.

Ears

The ears are long, narrow, and soft, hanging straight down with a slight backward angle. Make four ear pieces in beige, two for each ear.

1. CO 8 stitches.
2. Row 1 WS: P all stitches.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 10 stitches.
4. Row 3: P all stitches.
5. Rows 4 to 16: Work in St st.
6. Row 17: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 8 stitches.
7. Row 18: P all stitches.
8. Row 19: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 6 stitches.
9. Row 20: P all stitches.
10. Row 21: K1, ssk, k2tog, K1. 4 stitches.
11. Row 22: P all stitches.
12. Row 23: K2tog twice. 2 stitches.
13. Cut yarn and pull through.

Sew pairs together around the sides, leaving the lower edge open. Do not stuff. Flatten each ear gently so it stays soft and natural.

Body

The body is compact and softly pear-shaped, slightly wider through the lower section, with a flatter upper chest so the sweater sits smoothly. Make two body pieces in cream or beige. If you want the neck to blend seamlessly with the sweater line, use beige for the body and let the sweater cover it.

1. CO 16 stitches.
2. Row 1 WS: P all stitches.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 18 stitches.
4. Row 3: P all stitches.
5. Row 4: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 20 stitches.
6. Row 5: P all stitches.
7. Row 6: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 22 stitches.
8. Rows 7 to 20: Work in St st.
9. Row 21: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 20 stitches.
10. Row 22: P all stitches.
11. Row 23: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 18 stitches.
12. Row 24: P all stitches.
13. Row 25: K all stitches.
14. Row 26: P all stitches.
15. Rows 27 to 30: Work in St st.
16. BO loosely.

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Sew the body pieces together, leaving the top open for stuffing. Fill the lower half firmly so the bunny can stand with support from the feet. Keep the upper chest slightly softer.

Arms

The arms are short, slightly tapered, and rounded at the tips. Make four arm pieces in beige.

1. CO 8 stitches.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in St st.
3. Row 5 RS: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 10 stitches.
4. Rows 6 to 14: Work in St st.
5. Row 15: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 8 stitches.
6. Row 16: P all stitches.
7. Row 17: K all stitches.
8. BO.

Sew pairs together, stuff lightly, and flatten the top edges for easy attachment. The arms should not look bulky. They sit low and relaxed beside the body.

Legs and Feet Core

The visible shoes cover most of the feet, but a firm lower structure helps the bunny stand nicely. Make two leg pieces in beige.

1. CO 10 stitches.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work in St st.
3. Row 7 RS: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 12 stitches.
4. Rows 8 to 16: Work in St st.
5. BO.

Fold and seam each piece into a soft tube, stuff firmly at the bottom and lightly at the top. Shape the lower section into a stubby oval foot. The feet should point only slightly outward.

Shoes

The shoes are cream Mary Jane style with rounded toes and a visible strap line. Make two.

1. CO 12 stitches in cream.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in G st.
3. Rows 5 to 10: Work in St st.
4. Row 11 RS: K3, k2tog, knit to last 5 stitches, ssk, K3. 10 stitches.
5. Row 12: P all stitches.
6. Row 13: K2, k2tog, knit to last 4 stitches, ssk, K2. 8 stitches.
7. Row 14: P all stitches.
8. Row 15: K all stitches.
9. BO.

Sew each shoe into a little slipper shape around the foot base. Add one small horizontal strand across the instep to suggest the strap. Keep the toes gently rounded and neat.

Neck Finishing

Attach the stuffed head to the stuffed body securely. The neck seam should sit hidden under the pullover collar. Add extra stitches at the back neck to hold the head upright without making it stiff.

Once the head is attached, sew the ears to the upper side-back of the head. Let them begin near the level of the beret band and hang to jaw level. The front edge of each ear should remain visible from the front view.

Pullover Front and Back

The cream pullover fits closely and ends just above the skirt waist. It has a simple ribbed neckline, full sleeves, and a plain back closure. Make one front and one back in cream.

Front

1. CO 20 stitches.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K1, P1 rib.
3. Rows 5 to 18: Work in St st.
4. Shape armholes. Row 19: BO 2 stitches at beginning of row, knit to end.
5. Row 20: BO 2 stitches at beginning of row, purl to end. 16 stitches.
6. Rows 21 to 24: Work in St st.
7. Row 25 RS: K5, BO 6 stitches, K5.
8. Row 26 WS: P5, CO 6 over bound-off stitches, P5.
9. Rows 27 to 30: Work in St st.
10. Rows 31 to 34: K1, P1 rib.
11. BO in rib.

Back

1. Work as front through Row 18.
2. Shape armholes as for front. 16 stitches.
3. Rows 21 to 28: Work in St st.
4. Rows 29 to 32: K1, P1 rib.
5. BO in rib.

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Sew one shoulder seam first, then add sleeves, then side seams, then close the second shoulder or back opening as preferred. A hidden seam down the back is perfectly suitable.

Puff Sleeves

The sleeves are rounded and soft, with slight fullness at the shoulder and a narrower cuff. Make two in cream.

1. CO 12 stitches.
2. Rows 1 to 3: K1, P1 rib.
3. Row 4 RS: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 14 stitches.
4. Row 5: P all stitches.
5. Row 6: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 16 stitches.
6. Rows 7 to 14: Work in St st.
7. Row 15: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 14 stitches.
8. Row 16: P all stitches.
9. Row 17: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 12 stitches.
10. BO loosely.

Sew the sleeve seam and gather the upper edge slightly as you attach it into the armhole. The final look should be softly puffed, not dramatic.

Front Floral Decoration

The pullover front shows vertical floral growth rather than a scattered motif. Work the flowers and leaves separately, then sew them onto the finished front. Keep the arrangement balanced but not mirror-perfect.

Use three main flower colors across the chest area: deep rose, dusty pink, and soft lavender. Use two green tones for stems and leaves. The stems should rise from the lower hem upward in narrow branching lines.

Small Leaves

Make 10 to 14 leaves in two sizes.

1. CO 3 stitches in green.
2. Row 1: K all stitches.
3. Row 2: K1, inc, K1, inc, K1. 5 stitches.
4. Row 3: P all stitches.
5. Row 4: K2tog, K1, ssk. 3 stitches.
6. Row 5: P all stitches.
7. Row 6: K2tog, K1.
8. Cut yarn and pull through.

Flat Five-Petal Flowers

Make 7 to 9 flowers in mixed pink and mauve shades.

1. CO 15 stitches.
2. Work 3 rows in G st.
3. BO all stitches.
4. Coil the strip into a circle, easing every third stitch into a slight petal bump as you sew.
5. Pull center tight and secure.

Alternatively, make each flower from five tiny petals and join them around a center. Either method works as long as the finished flowers stay flat and slightly raised.

Flower Centers

Use tiny French-knot style centers or tiny rolled yarn knots in cream, pale yellow, or dark plum depending on the flower color. The center must be visible, because in the image each bloom reads clearly from a distance.

Placement

• Create two main upward floral sprays rising from the lower front
• Add one smaller side spray near the left side of the chest
• Cluster the richest rose tones in the middle
• Place one lavender bloom lower and slightly to the side
• Use vertical stem stitches to connect the flowers visually

Double-Frill Skirt

The skirt sits at the natural waist and falls in two soft blue tiers. The top tier is attached above the lower tier so both ruffled edges show clearly. Make in pale blue.

1. CO 28 stitches.
2. Rows 1 to 3: K1, P1 rib for waistband.
3. Row 4 RS: Increase evenly across to 40 stitches.
4. Rows 5 to 12: Work in St st.
5. Row 13 RS: Knit across, picking up and knitting 1 extra stitch into every 4th stitch. 50 stitches.
6. Rows 14 to 20: Work in St st.
7. Rows 21 to 22: Work 2 rows G st for first frill edge.
8. Do not BO. Mark this section as lower tier.

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For upper tier, return to Row 9 area on the inside using the same yarn or a new strand. Pick up 36 stitches evenly around that row line.

1. Rows 1 to 6 of upper tier: Work in St st.
2. Next RS row: Increase evenly to 46 stitches.
3. Work 5 more rows in St st.
4. Work 2 rows G st.
5. BO loosely.

Sew the skirt seam at the back. Gather the waistband very lightly if needed so it hugs the bunny body. The lower tier should show farther out, while the upper tier should sit higher and shorter.

Beret

The beret is slouchy, softly rounded, and slightly oversized. It has a neat ribbed band and a gentle lean to one side. Make in taupe or warm beige-brown.

1. CO 44 stitches.
2. Rows 1 to 6: K1, P1 rib.
3. Row 7 RS: Increase evenly to 64 stitches.
4. Rows 8 to 18: Work in St st.
5. Row 19: K6, k2tog across row. 56 stitches.
6. Row 20: P all stitches.
7. Row 21: K5, k2tog across row. 49 stitches.
8. Row 22: P all stitches.
9. Row 23: K4, k2tog across row. 42 stitches.
10. Row 24: P all stitches.
11. Row 25: K3, k2tog across row. 35 stitches.
12. Row 26: P all stitches.
13. Row 27: K2, k2tog across row. 26 stitches.
14. Row 28: P all stitches.
15. Row 29: K2tog across row. 13 stitches.
16. Cut yarn and thread through remaining stitches.

Sew the side seam. Gather the crown and shape the hat so it leans slightly to the bunny’s right side. The rib band should sit low on the forehead, almost touching the upper face line.

Beret Blossoms and Leaves

The beret decoration includes three blossoms grouped together with several leaves beneath them. Make the flowers in rose, mauve, and pink, each with a pale center. Make 4 to 5 leaves in olive and green.

Use the same flower method as for the sweater front, but make these slightly fuller. Sew the blossoms near one side of the hat band, overlapping them a little. Tuck the leaves behind the flowers so the cluster looks natural and layered.

Crossbody Bag

The bag is small, rectangular, and designed to resemble a tiny window. The body is pale beige with taupe framing and a long narrow strap.

Bag Front and Back

1. CO 8 stitches in beige.
2. Rows 1 to 12: Work in St st.
3. BO.
4. Make 2 pieces.

Bag Gusset

1. CO 20 stitches in taupe.
2. Work 2 rows G st.
3. BO.

Sew the gusset around the sides and bottom between front and back. Leave top edge open, then add a narrow taupe top edging.

Window Detail

Using pale blue and taupe yarn, stitch a centered window on the bag front.

• Make a small rectangle in pale blue from 6 stitches by 8 rows
• Sew it onto the bag front
• Add one vertical and one horizontal taupe bar across it
• Frame the full panel with taupe backstitch or narrow applied cord

Strap

1. CO 2 stitches in taupe.
2. Knit 24 to 28 rows or until long enough to cross from shoulder to opposite hip.
3. BO.

Sew the strap to the upper corners of the bag. Position it diagonally across the bunny from shoulder to opposite side waist.

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Little Bird

The bird is a small rounded companion with a cream body, blue wings and tail, a rust chest, a taupe cap, and tiny legs. It should look plump and slightly upright.

Bird Body

Make two body pieces, each using cream for most of the shape and changing to rust for the chest area if desired.

1. CO 8 stitches.
2. Row 1: P all stitches.
3. Row 2: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 10 stitches.
4. Row 3: P all stitches.
5. Row 4: K1, inc, knit to last 1 stitch, inc, K1. 12 stitches.
6. Rows 5 to 10: Work in St st.
7. Change lower front area to rust for 3 rows if you want the chest separated in color.
8. Row 11: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 10 stitches.
9. Row 12: P all stitches.
10. Row 13: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. 8 stitches.
11. BO.

Sew body pieces together and stuff lightly.

Bird Cap

1. CO 10 stitches in taupe.
2. Work 6 rows in St st.
3. Row 7: K2tog across. 5 stitches.
4. Cut yarn and gather.

Sew onto the top of the bird head with a slight tilt.

Wings and Tail

Make two wings and one tail in blue.

1. CO 5 stitches.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in St st.
3. Row 5: K2tog, K1, k2tog. 3 stitches.
4. Row 6: P all stitches.
5. Cut yarn and pull through.

For the tail, make the same shape but a little longer by adding 2 extra plain rows before decreasing.

Beak and Legs

Form a tiny beak with 2 or 3 satin stitches in beige or tan. Use brown yarn or fine thread for two little legs, each ending in short toes. The legs can be knotted underneath for stability.

Tiny Book

The small book is pale blue with cream page edges. It should be flat, neat, and slightly padded.

1. CO 8 stitches in pale blue.
2. Work 10 rows in G st.
3. BO.
4. Make a second matching rectangle.

Cut a tiny insert from felt or thin card just slightly smaller than the knitted rectangles. Sandwich it between the two pieces. Sew around three sides in blue, then add a cream stitched edge on the open side to suggest pages.

Add a tiny cream label on the front cover with a few horizontal stitches.

Hollyhock Stem

The separate flower stem lying on the table should be slender, leafy, and topped with several blooms and buds. This detail is small but important to the scene.

Stem

1. Make an i-cord or narrow knitted cord in green, about 5 inches long.
2. If you want it poseable, insert thin floral wire before closing the final inch.

Leaves

Make 3 larger textured leaves in dark green. Work each from 5 stitches, increasing to 9, then decreasing back down. Sew a central vein line in matching yarn.

Flowers and Buds

Make 4 open blossoms in dusty pink, rose, and mauve, plus 2 small buds in pale pink and green. Arrange the largest flower near the upper section and the smaller flowers lower down. Secure them closely to the stem in a natural climbing order.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Dress the bunny in the pullover first, then the skirt. Sew the arms in place so they emerge naturally from beneath the sleeves. Add the shoes last if you did not already secure them to the feet.

For the face, place the eyes as tiny vertical black ovals with about 7 to 9 stitches between them. They sit low on the face, slightly above the muzzle shaping line. Work a small Y-shaped nose and mouth in dark taupe or brown.

The nose is a tiny inverted triangle. From the lower point, stitch a short vertical line, then split into two soft curved mouth lines. Keep the expression calm and gentle. Lightly shade the cheeks with pink yarn stitching only if needed.

Sew the beret in place with just a few hidden stitches so it keeps its side-lean. Attach the floral cluster firmly. Place the bag diagonally across the body and tack it at the shoulder and side so it stays flat.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from direct sunlight
• Handle the floral details gently
• Do not hang the bunny by the bag strap
• Keep the book and bird as display pieces if giving to young children
• Store flat or seated so the hat and skirt keep their shape

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and secured firmly
• Ears placed evenly and falling to jaw level
• Eyes matched in height and spacing
• Mouth centered beneath the nose
• Sweater flowers balanced across the front
• Skirt tiers clearly visible
• Beret slouched to one side
• Bag strap lying diagonally and neatly
• Bird, book, and flower stem finished to scale

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean first using a barely damp cloth and mild soap. Press, do not rub, especially around the face, floral appliqués, and bag window detail. Let all pieces air dry naturally on a towel.

If deeper cleaning is needed, hand wash the main bunny very gently in cool water. Keep the bird, book, and wired flower stem separate. Squeeze out moisture in a towel and reshape the beret, sleeves, skirt frills, and ears while damp.

For long-term preservation, wrap the set in acid-free tissue and store in a dry box. Avoid plastic bags in humid spaces. Lavender sachets may be placed nearby, but not in direct contact with pale yarn.