Alstroemeria Pearl-Cape Bunny – Knitting

This soft bunny doll brings together heirloom charm, floral wardrobe styling, and collectible toy details in one beautiful knitted set. The main bunny features a blossom dress, scalloped pearl-trim cape, deep green Mary Jane shoes, a tiny flower handbag, a matching knitted puppy, a small wrapped gift, a folded cloth, and extra flower stems. This design suits knitters who love handmade nursery decor, artisan stuffed animals, giftable knitted dolls, and boutique-style spring keepsakes. The finished set also appeals to shoppers searching for knitted bunny doll decor, collectible soft toy gifts, floral nursery accessories, and handcrafted seasonal display pieces.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This knitted set is built around a standing bunny with a rounded head, long side-falling ears, a softly shaped muzzle, and a full skirted body. The silhouette is gentle and balanced. The bunny is not oversized in the head, so the look stays refined, elegant, and close to the photographed piece.

The outfit is a major visual feature. The dress is pale blush with a wide floral motif worked around the skirt. Over the dress sits a short cape in cream, finished with a scalloped hood edge and small pearl-like trim along the front and neckline. The shoes are dark green and shaped like classic Mary Janes.

The accessories complete the scene and should not be skipped. They include a knitted flower handbag, a small puppy with its own mini cape, a tiny gift parcel, a folded cloth with simple edge embroidery, and loose flower stems placed on the table. Each item is included below.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 11 to 12 inches tall from feet to top of head, not including ear length above the head because the ears fall down
• Ears: about 4 1/2 inches long each
• Puppy: about 4 inches tall sitting upright on all four legs
• Handbag: about 2 inches tall without handle
• Gift parcel: about 1 inch square
• Folded cloth: about 1 3/4 inches square folded
• Flower stems: about 2 1/2 to 3 inches long

Materials

• Main yarn weight: light fingering or fine sport weight yarn with smooth stitch definition
• Main bunny color: soft cream
• Dress base color: pale blush or very light apricot pink
• Floral motif colors: coral pink, dusty rose, soft peach, olive green, moss green, and a touch of cream
• Cape color: soft cream matching the bunny
• Shoe color: dark forest green
• Handbag color: warm peach-beige
• Flower accessory colors: blush, peach, cream, yellow-gold, and green
• Gift parcel colors: pale peach, cream, and soft pink
• Cloth color: cream with tiny pink and green accent stitches
• Needles: set of double-pointed needles or long circular for small circumference knitting, 2.25 mm and 2.5 mm
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Waste yarn
• Small black beads or black embroidery thread for eyes
• Brown or taupe embroidery thread for nose and mouth
• Polyester stuffing
• Tiny faux pearls or pearl-style beads for cape edging
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas for shoe soles if firmer feet are desired

Gauge

Gauge is less important than firmness, but your fabric must be dense enough that stuffing does not show through. For the main bunny, aim for a smooth stockinette fabric with very small visible stitches. The dress should drape softly while still holding the bell shape of the skirt.

• Main body gauge: about 8 to 9 stitches per inch in stockinette on 2.25 mm needles
• Dress and cape gauge: about 7.5 to 8 stitches per inch on 2.5 mm needles

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• m1 = make 1 increase
• sl = slip
• rep = repeat

📌Thank you for reading the article

Notes Before You Begin

• The bunny is worked mostly in the round for a seamless, polished finish.
• The dress is made separately and then dressed onto the bunny from the feet upward before the arms are sewn in place.
• The cape is worked flat in one piece with gentle shaping.
• The floral skirt motif is chart-like in effect, but it is written below in clear sections for easier reading.
• Stuff little and often. The photographed toy has smooth shaping, not a hard overfilled surface.
• Keep decreases aligned neatly so the face and limbs stay elegant.

Main Bunny Legs

Make 2. Begin with cream yarn. The legs are slim cylinders with slightly flattened bottoms once stuffed. They should look neat and delicate, not bulky.

1. CO 12 sts evenly across 3 needles. Join for working in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in each st around. 24 sts.
4. Rnds 3 to 6: k all.
5. Rnd 7: k2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
6. Rnd 8: k all.
7. Rnd 9: k1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
8. Rnds 10 to 28: k all for the lower leg.

Stuff the foot firmly, then the leg lightly. Flatten the sole with your fingers so the bunny can stand with support. Make the second leg the same.

To join the legs, place both on one needle arrangement with inner leg stitches touching. Knit 6 stitches of first leg, CO 4 stitches, knit all 12 stitches of second leg, CO 4 stitches, knit remaining 6 stitches of first leg. You now have 40 stitches for the lower body.

Body

The body is pear-shaped under the dress. The real fullness is created by the separate skirt, but the stuffed torso should still be softly rounded at the belly and narrow at the chest.

1. Rnds 1 to 4: k all on 40 sts.
2. Rnd 5: k5, m1 around. 48 sts.
3. Rnds 6 to 10: k all.
4. Rnd 11: k6, m1 around. 56 sts.
5. Rnds 12 to 18: k all.
6. Rnd 19: k6, k2tog around. 49 sts. Adjust to 48 sts at end by working one extra decrease discreetly at back.
7. Rnds 20 to 24: k all.
8. Rnd 25: k4, k2tog around. 40 sts.
9. Rnds 26 to 30: k all.
10. Rnd 31: k3, k2tog around. 32 sts.

Begin stuffing the body. Shape the lower belly round and smooth. Keep the upper torso more slender. Add a tiny internal support tube only if you want a firmer display piece, but soft stuffing alone is enough for a gentle toy look.

1. Rnds 32 to 36: k all.
2. Rnd 37: k2, k2tog around. 24 sts.
3. Rnd 38: k all.

This 24-stitch opening becomes the neck base. Break yarn and place the stitches on hold if you prefer to make the head separately. For the cleanest shaping, continue directly into the head.

Head

The head is rounded with a slightly narrower muzzle section created by embroidery and gentle stuffing placement rather than strong knitted shaping. Keep the face smooth. This bunny’s charm comes from simplicity.

1. Rnd 1: k all through back loops if needed to sharpen the neck transition.
2. Rnd 2: k2, m1 around. 32 sts.
3. Rnd 3: k all.
4. Rnd 4: k3, m1 around. 40 sts.
5. Rnd 5: k all.
6. Rnd 6: k4, m1 around. 48 sts.
7. Rnds 7 to 18: k all.

Stuff the head gradually. Keep the lower face slightly firmer than the top so the embroidered muzzle can sit nicely. Avoid lumps. Roll tiny tufts of stuffing and place them evenly.

1. Rnd 19: k4, k2tog around. 40 sts.
2. Rnd 20: k all.
3. Rnd 21: k3, k2tog around. 32 sts.
4. Rnd 22: k all.
5. Rnd 23: k2, k2tog around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 24: k1, k2tog around. 16 sts.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Finish stuffing the crown firmly but not hard. Thread the yarn through remaining stitches, pull tight, and close securely. Weave in the end.

Ears

Make 2 in cream. The ears are long, flat, and softly rounded. They hang down beside the hood rather than standing upright. Their width should remain modest so they frame the face delicately.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: p.
3. Row 2: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: p.
5. Row 4: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 24: work in stockinette, slipping first stitch of every row for a neat edge.
7. Row 25: ssk, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
8. Row 26: p.
9. Row 27: ssk, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
10. Row 28: p.
11. Row 29: ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
12. Row 30: p.
13. Row 31: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
14. Row 32: p.
15. Row 33: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
16. Row 34: p2tog. Fasten off.

Do not stuff the ears. Steam lightly if needed, then fold the cast-on edge slightly to curve the ear downward. Sew one ear to each side of the head, slightly behind the face centerline.

Arms

Make 2 in cream. The arms are simple slim tubes with gently rounded ends. They should hang straight down and stop just above the dress hemline level when attached.

1. CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: kfb around. 16 sts.
3. Rnds 2 to 4: k all.
4. Rnd 5: k2, k2tog around. 12 sts.
5. Rnds 6 to 22: k all.

Stuff only the lower half lightly. Flatten the upper opening and sew closed. Leave a long tail for attachment. Sew the arms to the upper body after the dress is on the bunny.

Dress

The dress is the visual centerpiece. It has a soft bell shape, a smooth bodice, and a wide blossom band around the skirt. Use pale blush for the base and work color changes neatly across the back. Keep floats loose enough for drape but tidy enough to avoid bulk.

Skirt Hem

1. Using pale blush and 2.5 mm needles, CO 120 sts. Join in the round carefully.
2. Rnd 1: p all.
3. Rnd 2: k all.
4. Rnd 3: p all.
5. Rnd 4: k all.

This creates the subtle hem border visible at the bottom of the skirt. The photographed edge looks smooth and refined rather than ruffled, so keep the hem simple.

Lower Skirt

1. Rnds 5 to 12: k all in pale blush.

Floral Motif Section

The skirt motif shows repeated upright flower clusters with green leaves at the base and layered blossom shapes above. Use 6 repeats around the skirt. Each repeat uses 20 stitches. Place markers between repeats.

Work the motif over 20 rounds following the written placement below. Background stitches stay in pale blush unless another color is named.

• Rounds 1 to 3 of motif: create leaf bases using olive and moss green in the center 6 to 8 stitches of each repeat, tapering outward slightly
• Rounds 4 to 8: continue stems in green while adding peach and dusty rose petal stitches above the stems
• Rounds 9 to 14: widen the blossom heads with coral pink, soft peach, and a few cream highlight stitches
• Rounds 15 to 17: narrow the petals toward pointed tops
• Rounds 18 to 20: finish with tiny upper accents and return fully to pale blush

For each 20-stitch repeat, arrange the floral design so the lower leaves flare outward, the center blossom rises tallest, and two side blossoms sit slightly lower. The look should resemble stylized alstroemeria blooms rather than round roses. Keep the petal shaping vertical and graceful.

If you prefer a written distribution guide, use this visual structure inside each 20-stitch repeat:

• Outer 4 stitches on both sides remain mostly background
• Next 3 stitches each side carry angled leaves
• Center 6 stitches carry stems and central flower

📌Thank you for reading the article

Repeat the floral rhythm all the way around. The photographed dress has a balanced motif with no empty visual gaps, so keep each repeat similar in scale and height.

Upper Skirt and Bodice

1. After the motif section, work 10 rounds in pale blush.
2. Next round: k8, k2tog around. 108 sts.
3. Work 6 rounds even.
4. Next round: k7, k2tog around. 96 sts.
5. Work 4 rounds even.
6. Next round: k6, k2tog around. 84 sts.
7. Work 4 rounds even.
8. Next round: k5, k2tog around. 72 sts.
9. Work 4 rounds even.
10. Next round: k4, k2tog around. 60 sts.
11. Work 6 rounds even for upper bodice.

Bind off loosely, leaving an opening stretch large enough to pass over the bunny from the feet upward. If needed, add a short back opening by working the final 6 rows flat and leaving a slit, then sew tiny snaps on the inside. The dress should sit high on the chest under the cape.

Shoes

Make 2 in dark green. These shoes should be rounded and neat, with a visible instep opening that suggests a Mary Jane style. They fit over the finished feet and are sewn lightly in place.

1. CO 12 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: kfb around. 24 sts.
3. Rnds 2 to 5: k all.
4. Rnd 6: k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6. 22 sts.
5. Rnd 7: k all.
6. Rnd 8: k5, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k5. 20 sts.
7. Rnd 9: k all.

Now create the instep opening.

1. Row 10: k6, bind off 8, k6.
2. Row 11: p6, CO 8, p6.
3. Rnds 12 to 15: k all.
4. Rnd 16: k2tog around. 10 sts.

Fasten off and close the sole neatly. Add a short embroidered bar across the opening if you want a stronger Mary Jane impression, but keep it subtle. Make sure both shoes face forward symmetrically.

Cape

The cape is worked flat in cream and sewn at the front neck. It falls just over the shoulders and upper bodice. The front edges curve softly downward. Along the neckline and front opening, add pearl-style trim to echo the photographed finish.

1. CO 72 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: p all.
3. Row 2 RS: k all.
4. Rows 3 to 8: continue in stockinette.

Begin shaping.

1. Row 9 RS: k2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
2. Row 10 WS: p all.
3. Repeat Rows 9 and 10 six more times. 58 sts.
4. Work 4 rows even.

Now shape the neck edge.

1. Row 1 RS: k2, k2tog, k until last 4 sts, ssk, k2.
2. Row 2 WS: p all.
3. Repeat these 2 rows 8 times. 42 sts.
4. Work 2 rows even.

Bind off loosely. The cape should form a shallow semicircle when opened flat. Sew a small neck seam or gather the top edge slightly so it wraps closely around the bunny’s shoulders.

Scalloped Hood-Like Frill

The photographed cape has a ruffled scallop framing the head. This is attached separately around the upper neck edge and sits like a bonnet frill behind the face.

1. CO 90 sts in cream.
2. Rows 1 to 3: work garter stitch.
3. Row 4 RS: k1, kfb across. 179 sts.
4. Rows 5 to 8: work garter stitch.
5. Bind off loosely.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Steam lightly so the frill ripples gently. Sew it to the inner top edge of the cape, curving it around the head opening. Do not make it too tall. It should frame the face without covering the eyes.

Pearl Trim

Sew tiny pearl-style beads along both front cape edges and around the neckline seam area. Space them evenly. The photographed trim is delicate, so avoid crowding. Small beads every 3 to 4 rows are enough.

Handbag

This small handbag is peach-beige with a rounded body and knitted handle. Tiny flowers are attached to the front. Make the body first, then the handle, then the blossoms.

1. CO 10 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: kfb around. 20 sts.
3. Rnds 2 to 10: k all.
4. Rnd 11: k2, k2tog around. 15 sts.
5. Rnds 12 to 14: k all.

Flatten the opening and graft or sew it mostly closed, leaving a small top gap. For the handle, pick up 4 stitches on one side of the opening and work an i-cord to about 4 inches. Sew the other end to the opposite side.

Add three tiny flowers to the front lower side of the bag. Use one blush bloom, one cream bloom, and one peach bloom with yellow-gold centers and green sepals. Let them overlap slightly.

Loose Flower Stems

Make 3 to 5 stems. These flowers echo the dress motif and the blossoms in the photo. Each flower has slim petals with a striped center impression.

• Stem: work a 3-stitch i-cord in green for 2 to 2 1/2 inches
• Flower center: wrap yellow-gold yarn three times and stitch down
• Petals: make 6 narrow petals with blush, peach, or cream yarn using tiny knitted loops or embroidered detached stitches
• Markings: add a few darker rose lines at the inner petal base

Arrange the loose stems together like a miniature bouquet. Tie with matching yarn if desired, but keep the finish understated.

Folded Cloth

This tiny folded cloth sits on the table and adds a domestic heirloom touch. It is a simple cream square with a few embroidered edge details.

1. CO 16 sts in cream.
2. Work 20 rows in garter stitch.
3. Bind off knitwise.

Embroider one or two small pink and green decorative dashes near the border. Fold the square neatly into a smaller rectangle or square as shown.

Gift Parcel

The little parcel is knitted as a tiny cube in pale peach with vertical cream striping and a soft pink top bow.

1. CO 8 sts in pale peach.
2. Work 24 rows in stockinette.
3. Sew into a tiny cube and stuff lightly.

Wrap cream yarn around the parcel vertically and horizontally to mimic ribbon. Add a stitched bow or tiny i-cord knot at the top in soft pink.

Puppy

The puppy is small, cream, and softly floppy. It has a rounded head, short muzzle shaping, four sturdy legs, a little tail, and a miniature neck cape or tied collar with soft ruffle.

Puppy Body and Head

1. Begin at back feet. Make 2 legs as tiny versions of the bunny legs, each starting with 8 stitches, increasing to 12, and working 10 rounds even.
2. Join the legs with 2 stitches cast on between them. Work 28 stitches total for the lower body.
3. Work 6 rounds even.
4. Increase to 32 stitches over 1 round.
5. Work 6 rounds even.
6. Decrease to 24 stitches for the neck.
7. Increase to 36 stitches for the head.
8. Work 10 rounds even.
9. Decrease gradually to close.

Stuff the puppy more firmly than the bunny so it sits upright on its legs. Keep the muzzle slightly pronounced with stuffing placement and embroidery.

Puppy Front Legs

1. Make 2 small tubes of 10 stitches for about 9 rounds.
2. Stuff lightly and sew under the chest.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Puppy Ears

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Increase to 10 sts over 2 rows.
3. Work 8 rows even.
4. Decrease to 4 sts and fasten off.

Sew the ears low so they droop beside the face. Add black bead or embroidered eyes and a dark brown embroidered nose and mouth.

Puppy Mini Cape or Collar

CO 24 stitches in cream and work 4 rows of garter stitch. On the next row, k1, kfb across for a gentle ruffle. Work 2 more rows in garter and bind off. Tie or sew around the neck, letting the ends finish in a soft bow.

Assembly

1. Weave in all ends carefully before final dressing.
2. Dress the bunny by sliding the skirt up from the feet.
3. Position the dress so the floral band sits low and wide across the skirt.
4. Sew the arms onto the upper body over the dress opening if needed.
5. Attach the ears so they fall evenly on both sides.
6. Sew on the cape and frill, adjusting the curve until the face remains fully visible.
7. Add the shoes and tack them in place with a few hidden stitches.
8. Place the handbag in one paw with discreet stitches at the handle.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Mark the eye placement first. The eyes should sit low on the face, spaced widely, and slightly above the muzzle line. This creates the gentle, calm expression seen in the image. Use tiny black beads or very small satin stitches rather than large eyes.

For the nose, embroider a small upside-down triangle in warm taupe or brown. Extend a short center line downward and add a soft split mouth with two tiny curved stitches. Lightly indent the muzzle by passing thread through the head once or twice before finishing the embroidery.

Check the cape position after the face is complete. The scalloped frill should frame the forehead and cheeks without hiding the ears. Adjust the front opening so the pearl trim lies symmetrically on both sides of the chest.

Care Notes

• Handle pearl trim and tiny accessories gently.
• Display pieces are best kept away from direct sunlight.
• If made for décor, place on a dry shelf rather than in damp areas.
• If made for a child, avoid bead eyes and use embroidered features instead.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Main bunny stuffed evenly with smooth face shaping
• Ears matched in length and angle
• Dress centered so the floral motifs face front
• Cape balanced on both sides with secure pearl trim
• Shoes aligned evenly under the feet
• Handbag, flowers, cloth, and parcel finished in matching scale
• Puppy posed neatly beside the bunny

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean first using a barely damp cloth and mild soap. Do not soak unless absolutely necessary, especially when beads or embroidered details are attached. If full washing is needed, wash gently by hand in cool water, press out moisture in a towel, and reshape while drying flat.

Store the set in a clean, breathable box with acid-free tissue if it is not on display year-round. Avoid hanging the bunny by the ears or cape. Keep accessories together in a small cloth pouch so the tiny pieces remain protected and easy to find.