Hibiscus Seabreeze-Bib Bunny – Knitting

Hibiscus Seabreeze-Bib Bunny – Knitting

This sweet seaside-inspired bunny is designed as an heirloom-style knitted soft toy with a breezy sunhat, a pale aqua pinafore, a bold hibiscus flower, navy Mary Jane shoes, and a charming set of tiny matching accessories. The finished piece has the look of a premium handmade bunny doll, nursery keepsake, spring display toy, and thoughtful Easter gift. The outfit is gentle, classic, and polished, while the extra knitted props give the whole set the feel of a collectible artisan bunny that many shoppers look for in boutique toy, baby gift, and handmade décor collections.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Design Overview

This pattern creates a long-eared bunny with a softly rounded head, a slim neck, a simple straight body, long gentle arms, straight legs, and slightly oversized feet. The bunny is dressed in a white puff-sleeve top and a pale aqua pinafore with a softly gathered lower edge.

The front of the pinafore features one large hibiscus flower with five petals, a raised center column, and two green leaves placed low on either side. The bunny also wears a pale aqua brimmed hat with a decorative ripple edge and a navy pair of strap shoes with a side button detail.

The accessory set includes a tiny blue bird dressed to echo the bunny’s outfit, one separate red flower, one fan-shaped shell piece in cream, aqua, and blush, and a small soft backpack in sandy beige and pale aqua. Every piece is written to visually match the proportions shown in the image.

Skill Level

Level: Advanced beginner to intermediate.

The shapes are straightforward, but accuracy matters. Neat finishing, careful placement, even tension, and patient seaming are what make the final bunny look refined. A newer knitter can absolutely make this set, but it is best to work slowly and check measurements often.

Finished Size

  • Main bunny: about 13 to 15 inches tall seated, depending on yarn and stuffing
  • Hat diameter: sized to sit low over the forehead and upper ears
  • Bird: about 3 inches tall
  • Backpack: about 3 inches tall
  • Loose flower: about 2 inches across
  • Shell fan: about 2 1/4 inches wide

The bunny in the image looks softly stuffed rather than firm. Keep that in mind while filling the head, body, limbs, and bird.

Materials

  • DK weight yarn in cream or soft ivory for bunny body
  • DK weight yarn in white for top
  • DK weight yarn in pale aqua for dress, hat, part of backpack, bird outfit, and shell accent
  • DK weight yarn in deep coral red and darker rose-red for hibiscus flower and loose flower
  • DK weight yarn in leaf green for leaves
  • DK weight yarn in navy for shoes and bird body accents
  • DK weight yarn in sand or beige for backpack body and straps
  • Small amount of yellow for bird beak
  • Small amount of blush pink for shell fan striping if desired
  • 3.0 mm needles for most pieces
  • 2.75 mm needles for smaller props if you prefer firmer fabric
  • Toy stuffing
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Small black safety eyes or black embroidery thread for eyes
  • Brown embroidery floss for nose and mouth
  • White sewing thread for tiny flower center if desired
  • Small buttons for shoes and backpack flap if decorative closure is wanted

Gauge

28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on 3.0 mm needles using DK yarn.

Exact gauge is less important than proportion, but consistency is very important. The fabric should be dense enough that stuffing does not show through.

Abbreviations

  • CO = cast on
  • BO = bind off
  • k = knit
  • p = purl
  • st = stitch
  • sts = stitches
  • st st = stockinette stitch
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side
  • inc = increase 1 stitch
  • dec = decrease 1 stitch
  • k2tog = knit 2 together
  • ssk = slip, slip, knit
  • rep = repeat
  • yo = yarn over
  • sl = slip

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Color Notes

  • Main body: cream
  • Top: white
  • Pinafore and hat: pale aqua
  • Flower petals: deep coral with darker red inner shading if desired
  • Leaves: leaf green
  • Shoes: navy
  • Bird body: medium blue with darker blue wings
  • Bird dress and hat: pale aqua
  • Bird beak: yellow
  • Backpack: beige and pale aqua

Main Bunny Head

The head is large, softly oval, and slightly wider through the cheeks than the chin. The face should remain smooth with a gentle center line created only by shaping and embroidery, not by a harsh seam ridge.

  1. Using cream, CO 18 sts.
  2. Work 6 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
  3. Row 7: k1, inc, knit to last 1 st, inc, k1. 20 sts.
  4. Work 3 rows even.
  5. Next RS row: k1, inc, knit to last 1 st, inc, k1. 22 sts.
  6. Work 3 rows even.
  7. Continue increasing in this way every 4th row until you have 30 sts.
  8. Work 20 rows even.
  9. Shape top: Row 1: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
  10. WS row purl.
  11. Repeat these 2 rows until 18 sts remain.
  12. Work 2 rows even.
  13. BO loosely.

Make 2 head pieces. Sew around the edge, leaving the lower neck edge open. Stuff the cheeks more than the forehead so the face gets that sweet rounded fullness seen in the image. The head should not be overly round like a ball. It should be slightly longer than wide.

Head Shaping Notes

  • Lightly pull a vertical thread from crown toward nose area to suggest the center of the face.
  • Add tiny cheek indentations only if needed. Keep them subtle.
  • The muzzle area should remain smooth, not protruding as a separate snout.

Long Ears

The ears are long, narrow, and floppy. They fall straight down from the hat opening and reach nearly to the bib straps. They are cream like the body and are not lined in a second color.

  1. Using cream, CO 10 sts.
  2. Work 4 rows in st st.
  3. Row 5: k1, inc, knit to last 1 st, inc, k1. 12 sts.
  4. Work 10 rows even.
  5. Next RS row: k1, inc, knit to last 1 st, inc, k1. 14 sts.
  6. Work 24 rows even.
  7. Shape tip: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
  8. Purl 1 row.
  9. Repeat last 2 rows until 8 sts remain.
  10. Work 2 rows even.
  11. BO.

Make 4 ear pieces for 2 complete ears. Sew each pair together, leaving the lower edge open. Stuff either not at all or with the faintest veil of stuffing at the base only. The ears in the image hang naturally and should remain flat and supple.

Body

The body is simple, narrow, and softly cylindrical with a slightly rounded lower half. It exists mainly as a base for the clothes. Avoid a pronounced tummy. The dress should define the silhouette more than the body itself.

  1. Using cream, CO 18 sts.
  2. Work 4 rows in st st.
  3. Increase 1 st at each edge on the next RS row. 20 sts.
  4. Work 5 rows even.
  5. Increase 1 st at each edge on the next RS row. 22 sts.
  6. Work 18 rows even.
  7. Decrease 1 st at each edge on the next RS row. 20 sts.
  8. Work 6 rows even.
  9. Decrease 1 st at each edge on next RS row. 18 sts.
  10. Work 6 rows even and BO.

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Make 2 pieces. Sew and stuff lightly. The neck opening should fit neatly into the head base. The body should feel soft and slightly flattened rather than hard stuffed.

Legs

The legs are straight, slim, and simple, with slightly wider feet created by the shoe pieces. The visible cream part of each leg is long enough for the skirt hem to fall above the knees while the feet rest forward.

  1. Using cream, CO 12 sts.
  2. Work 28 rows in st st.
  3. BO.

Make 4 leg pieces for 2 legs. Sew each pair together and stuff lightly. Keep them narrow. Do not overfill or the shoes will be difficult to attach cleanly.

Arms

The arms are long, gentle tubes with a slight taper toward the wrist. They hang low and end around the lower skirt line when attached. They are not bent at the elbow in the image.

  1. Using cream, CO 10 sts.
  2. Work 6 rows in st st.
  3. Increase 1 st at each side. 12 sts.
  4. Work 20 rows even.
  5. Decrease 1 st at each side. 10 sts.
  6. Work 6 rows even.
  7. BO.

Make 4 arm pieces for 2 arms. Sew, then stuff lightly with a little more stuffing near the upper arm. Flatten the hand end slightly.

White Puff-Sleeve Top

The top is white, smooth, and close fitting. It has short rounded sleeves that puff a little outward. The neckline is plain and sits just under the bib straps. This section can be made as a separate garment or directly attached over the body. A separate garment gives the cleanest finish.

Front and Back Top Panels

  1. Using white, CO 20 sts.
  2. Work 4 rows in k1, p1 rib.
  3. Change to st st and work 10 rows even.
  4. Armhole shaping: BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 16 sts.
  5. Work 6 rows even.
  6. Neckline front only: work 6 sts, BO 4 sts, work 6 sts.
  7. Work each side separately for 4 rows, dec at neck edge once.
  8. BO shoulder sts.

For the back, keep neckline higher by working 8 more rows before binding off the center 6 sts. Finish shoulders the same way.

Sleeves

  1. Using white, CO 18 sts.
  2. Work 2 rows in purl on RS, knit on WS to create a soft turning line.
  3. Work 8 rows st st.
  4. Next RS row: k2tog across. 9 sts.
  5. Work 2 rows even.
  6. BO.

Make 2 sleeves. Sew into armholes with the gathered top edge creating the rounded puff shape. The sleeve should end above the elbow and angle gently outward.

Pale Aqua Pinafore Dress

The pinafore is the signature garment of the set. It is a pale aqua dress with a broad bib front, narrow straps, a smooth skirt, and a soft ruffled lower edge. A decorative raised line sits above the ruffle. The flower appliqué is attached to the bib and upper skirt front.

Dress Front

  1. Using pale aqua, CO 32 sts.
  2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
  3. Work 18 rows in st st.
  4. Create raised line row on RS: purl all stitches.
  5. Work 6 rows in st st.
  6. Begin bib shaping: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2.
  7. Purl back.
  8. Repeat these 2 rows until 20 sts remain.
  9. Work 8 rows even.
  10. For straps, work first 5 sts only for 12 rows.
  11. BO.
  12. Rejoin yarn to center remaining sts, BO center 10 sts, work last 5 sts for second strap 12 rows.
  13. BO.

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Dress Back

  1. Using pale aqua, CO 32 sts.
  2. Work 4 garter rows.
  3. Work 18 rows st st.
  4. On next RS row, purl all stitches for the raised trim line.
  5. Work 6 rows st st.
  6. Decrease at each side every other row until 22 sts remain.
  7. Work 10 rows even.
  8. Divide for upper back opening if desired, or keep as one piece for a permanent outfit.
  9. If separate, make a short split and sew or button straps at back.

Skirt Ruffle

The hem in the image is soft, modest, and lightly flared rather than heavily frilled. To achieve that look, the ruffle should have movement but not too much volume.

  1. Pick up 48 sts along lower edge of skirt front and back combined if knitting separately, or work a sewn-on strip.
  2. Work 1 row knit.
  3. Increase every 4th stitch across. 60 sts.
  4. Work 6 rows in st st.
  5. Work 2 rows garter.
  6. BO loosely knitwise.

The decorative raised cord-like line above the ruffle can be emphasized by threading a matching pale aqua knitted i-cord or twisted cord through the purl ridge line, then lightly tacking it down. This gives the same rounded trim appearance seen in the image.

Hibiscus Flower Appliqué

The flower is large, centered, and slightly dimensional. It has five broad petals, each rounded and gently pointed toward the middle. The center is darker and a short raised column stands upright from the middle. Use deep coral for the petals and a darker shade near the inner base if you want extra depth.

Petals

Make 5 petals.

  1. Using coral red, CO 3 sts.
  2. Row 1: knit.
  3. Row 2: purl.
  4. Row 3: k1, inc, k1, inc, k1. 5 sts.
  5. Row 4: purl.
  6. Row 5: k1, inc, knit to last 1 st, inc, k1. 7 sts.
  7. Row 6: purl.
  8. Row 7: knit.
  9. Row 8: purl.
  10. Row 9: k1, inc, knit to last 1 st, inc, k1. 9 sts.
  11. Rows 10 to 14: work even in st st.
  12. Row 15: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 7 sts.
  13. Row 16: purl.
  14. Row 17: repeat decrease row. 5 sts.
  15. Row 18: purl.
  16. Row 19: k2tog, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
  17. BO.

Sew the bases of all 5 petals together in a round. Slightly overlap them so the flower forms a full disk, not a pinwheel. The finished flower should cover much of the dress front.

Flower Center and Column

  1. Using darker red or coral, CO 4 sts.
  2. Knit 8 rows in i-cord for the center column.
  3. Wrap the base in a tiny spiral or sew the lower end into the flower center.
  4. Using pale pink or cream embroidery thread, add a small pollen tip if desired.

Sew the flower to the bib and upper skirt front. Let the petals curve outward very slightly. The column should stand upward from the center, not lie flat.

Leaves

There are two green leaves, one on each lower side of the flower. They are knitted flat and lightly angled outward.

Make 2 leaves.

  1. Using green, CO 3 sts.
  2. Row 1: knit.
  3. Row 2: purl.
  4. Row 3: k1, inc, k1, inc, k1. 5 sts.
  5. Row 4: purl.
  6. Row 5: k1, inc, knit to last 1 st, inc, k1. 7 sts.
  7. Rows 6 to 10: work even in st st.
  8. Row 11: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 5 sts.
  9. Row 12: purl.
  10. Row 13: k2tog, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
  11. BO.

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Lightly pinch the base of each leaf before sewing. Place them peeking from behind the lower sides of the flower.

Sunhat

The hat is pale aqua, softly rounded on top, and finished with a wavy brim. It sits low on the head and frames the face without hiding the eyes. A decorative ridge circles the hat just above the brim.

Hat Crown

  1. Using pale aqua, CO 12 sts and join carefully if working in the round, or knit flat and seam later.
  2. Increase evenly over the next several rounds or RS rows until you have 48 sts.
  3. Work even for 14 rounds or rows.
  4. Create decorative ridge by working 1 full round or row in purl.

Hat Brim

  1. Increase every 6th stitch around. 56 sts.
  2. Work 4 rounds or rows even.
  3. Increase every 7th stitch. 64 sts.
  4. Work 4 rounds or rows even.
  5. Work final 2 rows in garter or seed-like edge for body.
  6. On last row, create gentle ripple by repeating: k2tog, yo across.
  7. BO loosely.

Block the brim lightly over a rounded surface so it undulates gently. It should not become stiff or dramatically floppy. Sew the hat so it rests just above the embroidered nose line and covers the ear bases.

Navy Mary Jane Shoes

The shoes are rounded, deep navy, and slightly oversized in the cutest way. Each has a strap across the instep and a tiny pale button at the outer side. The top opening shows a neat cream sock-like foot.

Sole and Upper

  1. Using navy, CO 8 sts.
  2. Increase at each side every RS row until 14 sts.
  3. Work 8 rows even.
  4. Decrease at each side every RS row until 8 sts.
  5. Do not BO yet if working an integrated upper.

For the upper, pick up stitches around the front half of the sole and work short rows upward to create a rounded shoe top. Sew around the foot so the toe is full but neat.

Strap

  1. CO 14 sts in navy.
  2. Work 2 rows garter.
  3. BO.

Sew one end of the strap to the inner shoe side and fasten the other near the outer side with a tiny white or pale button. The strap should sit slightly angled, matching the image.

Loose Red Flower Accessory

This extra flower is separate from the dress and sits beside the backpack in the image. It is smaller than the hibiscus on the dress, but still full and bright.

  1. Work 5 small petals using the same petal method as the dress flower, but stop at 7 sts for the widest part.
  2. Sew into a compact flower shape.
  3. Add a tiny pale pink knot or French-knot style center with thread.

Mini Backpack

The backpack is small and soft, made in beige with pale aqua side panels or flap accents. It sits behind the bunny and adds to the seaside outing theme. Keep it simple and charming rather than detailed like a real backpack.

Backpack Body

  1. Using beige, CO 14 sts.
  2. Work 20 rows in st st.
  3. BO.

Fold into a soft rectangle and seam sides. Lightly stuff or leave flat. Add a pale aqua flap by picking up stitches across the top edge and working 6 rows, then rounding the corners slightly during BO.

Straps

  1. Make 2 narrow beige i-cords, each about 4 inches long.
  2. Sew to back of backpack in gentle loops.

If you want a decorative closure, sew a tiny loop and button on the flap. The backpack should look soft and small, not rigid.

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Mini Bird

The tiny bird is an important part of the scene. It is blue with darker wings, a yellow beak, a pale aqua dress, a tiny hat, and a miniature coral flower on the front. Its shape is rounded and upright, like a small companion toy.

Bird Body

  1. Using medium blue, CO 12 sts.
  2. Increase to 18 sts over the first 6 rows.
  3. Work 10 rows even.
  4. Decrease gradually back to 12 sts.
  5. BO.

Make 2 pieces. Sew and stuff lightly so the bird remains plump and upright. The lower body should be a bit wider than the head.

Bird Wings

Make 2 in darker blue.

  1. CO 5 sts.
  2. Increase at outer edge every RS row until 9 sts.
  3. Work 4 rows even.
  4. Decrease every RS row until 5 sts.
  5. BO.

Sew one wing to each side, angled slightly downward.

Bird Beak

  1. Using yellow, CO 3 sts.
  2. Knit 1 row.
  3. Purl 1 row.
  4. K2tog, k1.
  5. BO.

Fold and sew to face. Add two tiny black eyes above the beak.

Bird Dress

  1. Using pale aqua, CO 16 sts.
  2. Work 8 rows st st.
  3. On next RS row, purl all stitches to create a trim line.
  4. Work 4 rows even.
  5. BO.

Wrap around the lower bird body and seam at the back. Add one miniature coral flower and tiny green leaves on the front using very small versions of the main appliqué pieces.

Bird Hat

  1. Using pale aqua, CO 18 sts.
  2. Work 6 rows st st.
  3. Create one purl ridge row.
  4. Increase every 3rd stitch for the brim.
  5. Work 2 rows even.
  6. BO loosely.

This tiny hat should sit slightly tilted, with a ripple edge just like the bunny’s hat.

Shell Fan Accessory

The shell or fan-shaped accessory on the bench is flat and decorative. It uses short wedges of color for a seaside touch. This can also be worked as a miniature pocket motif if you prefer.

  1. Using cream, CO 3 sts.
  2. Increase at one edge every RS row until 9 sts.
  3. Change to pale aqua for 2 rows.
  4. Add a blush stripe for 2 rows.
  5. Continue shaping in shallow wedges until a fan shape forms.
  6. Finish with a narrow cream edge and BO.

Lightly press flat. It should resemble a tiny scallop shell with radiating stripes.

Assembly of Bunny Structure

  1. Sew and stuff head.
  2. Sew and stuff body.
  3. Attach head to body with a firm ladder stitch.
  4. Attach legs low on the body front so the bunny sits naturally.
  5. Attach arms slightly below shoulder level, angled straight down.
  6. Sew ears to head sides, close to the crown, letting them hang evenly.

Before adding clothes, check that the bunny sits with both feet balanced forward. The image has a relaxed seated look, not a stiff pose. Adjust stuffing if needed.

Dressing and Placement Details

  1. Place the white top neatly on the body and sew closed at the back if made separately.
  2. Add the pale aqua pinafore over the top.
  3. Cross-check bib height. It should sit high on the chest, just under the neck.
  4. Sew straps over the shoulders and fasten at the back.
  5. Attach the ruffle so it flares softly around the lower dress.
  6. Sew the flower centered on the front bib and upper skirt.
  7. Add leaves low on each side of the flower.
  8. Slide on the navy shoes and attach securely.
  9. Set the hat low over the forehead and tack in place invisibly.

Facial Placement Guide

The face is simple and gentle. The eyes are tiny black vertical almond-like stitches or very small safety eyes. They sit fairly wide apart and slightly above the midpoint of the face. The nose is embroidered in brown and forms a soft triangle with a downward center line and short mouth branches.

  • Eyes: place about 7 to 8 stitches apart
  • Nose top: centered below eye line
  • Nose shape: small inverted Y with softly widened top
  • Mouth: short, neat, and slightly curved downward at each side

Proportion Check

  • Head should be the widest part of the bunny, slightly wider than the upper body
  • Ears should reach down near bib strap level
  • Dress should end above the ankles
  • Shoes should look rounded and slightly chunky
  • Hat brim should frame the face without covering the eyes
  • Main flower should dominate the dress front
  • Bird should reach roughly to the bunny’s knee area when placed beside it

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Once all pieces are attached, step back and compare the full silhouette. The bunny should look soft, balanced, and calm, with the face centered under the hat brim and both ears falling evenly.

Embroider the nose slowly using a few short layers rather than one thick stitch. Add the mouth after the nose is finished so the expression stays delicate. Attach the hat last if you still need access to the crown for adjustments.

Care Notes

  • Spot clean when possible
  • Handle flower center and bird hat gently
  • Do not machine wash if the toy contains sculpted stuffing details
  • Store away from direct sunlight to protect the pale aqua and coral shades

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Both ears attached evenly
  • Face centered and symmetrical
  • Dress bib sitting flat
  • Flower securely stitched
  • Leaves angled outward
  • Shoes aligned evenly
  • Hat brim resting at the same height on both sides
  • Bird, flower, shell, and backpack fully finished

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a soft cloth with cool water and mild soap for small marks. Blot instead of rubbing, especially around embroidered features and appliqué pieces. Reshape while damp and allow to dry flat on a towel.

For long-term storage, wrap the bunny and accessories in clean tissue and keep them in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags in humid spaces. If the hat brim loses shape, steam lightly from a distance and reshape by hand.

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