Honeysuckle Tea-Lantern Bunny – Crochet

This charming handmade bunny set blends the cozy appeal of an amigurumi doll, collectible crochet bunny, spring woodland decor piece, and heirloom stuffed animal. With her honeysuckle stem, tea cup, lantern bag, and matching companion, the finished design feels special enough for gift shopping, nursery styling, and seasonal display.

The outfit is full of boutique details that crochet lovers often look for in a premium handmade doll: a brimmed hat, floral cardigan, tied blouse, full skirt, tiny shoes, and a miniature friend. It is a lovely choice for anyone searching for artisan bunny decor, handcrafted toy inspiration, or a keepsake crochet gift.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Design Overview

This pattern creates two figures shown in the image: a standing bunny doll and a small hedgehog companion. The bunny wears a soft cream blouse and cardigan, a warm brown skirt with a lavender scallop trim, a tan cloche-style hat, and matching Mary Jane shoes. She carries a tea cup, holds a honeysuckle branch, and wears a lantern satchel.

The small hedgehog echoes the same styling so the pair clearly belongs together. The hedgehog has a round cream face, dark textured spines, a tiny hat, a tied cream top, a warm brown skirt, and a small lantern bag. Keeping the colors and proportions consistent is what makes the finished set look faithful to the picture.

Materials

• Main yarn, sport or light DK cotton: warm cream, light beige, tan, camel brown, dark brown, golden yellow, leaf green, muted lavender, pale pink, and black.
• Optional texture yarn for hedgehog spines: fuzzy brown or brushed alpaca-style yarn. If unavailable, standard brown cotton can be looped or brushed lightly.
• Hook sizes: 2.25 mm for most pieces, 2.0 mm for the smallest accessories if you want tighter shaping.
• Stuffing: fine polyester fiberfill.
• Safety eyes: 8 mm for bunny, 5 mm for hedgehog, or embroidered eyes for child-safe finishing.
• Floral wire or craft wire: for the honeysuckle stem and optional lantern handle support.
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers, pins, scissors, fabric glue optional.
• Plastic canvas or sturdy felt: optional for hat brim and bag base stability.

Suggested Colors

• Warm Cream: head, body, arms, collar, blouse ties, cardigan base, shoe soles, hedgehog face.
• Light Beige: bunny ears and subtle muzzle accent if desired.
• Tan: bunny hat and hedgehog hat.
• Camel Brown: bunny skirt, shoes, hedgehog skirt.
• Dark Brown: lantern bag, lantern frame lines, hedgehog spines.
• Golden Yellow: honeysuckle flowers, lantern center, tiny flower buds, cup base accent.
• Leaf Green: leaves, stems, floral embroidery vines, scallop trim contrast if desired.
• Muted Lavender: lower skirt scallop border.
• Black: eyes, hedgehog nose, tiny bag details.

Finished Size

• Bunny doll: about 10.5 to 12 inches tall including the hat, depending on yarn and tension.
• Hedgehog companion: about 4 to 4.75 inches tall including the hat.
• Scale: the hedgehog should reach around one-third to two-fifths of the bunny’s height.

Gauge and Tension Notes

The stitches in the picture are tight, neat, and even, with very little stuffing visible through the fabric. Use a hook smaller than usual for your yarn so the surface stays dense and smooth. The bunny’s face and skirt especially depend on firm stitch definition rather than a loose drape.

If your doll grows too tall or soft, reduce the hook by 0.25 mm. If the hat feels stiff and the blouse looks bulky, increase the hook slightly only for clothing. Consistent tension matters more than matching an exact gauge, because this style relies heavily on proportion and clean shaping.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• rep = repeat

Important Construction Notes

• Work the head, body, legs, and arms in continuous rounds unless noted.
• Use invisible decreases for a smoother sculpted finish.
• Stuff firmly but gradually. The neck, head, and lower body need the most support.
• The clothes are made as separate fitted pieces so the final silhouette matches the image.
• Pin every item before sewing. Small changes in angle strongly affect the doll’s expression.

Bunny Legs

Make 2 in warm cream. The bunny has long straight legs with a slim cylindrical shape. They are not chunky. The feet remain small because the shoes sit over them later. This contrast between narrow legs and rounded skirt is important for the same graceful look.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc around. (12)
4. Round 4: 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc. (10)
5. Round 5: sc around. (10)
6. Round 6: 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 1 sc. (12)
7. Rounds 7-24: sc around. (12)

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Stuff the lower foot area firmly and the leg lightly above that so it remains straight without becoming too thick. Flatten the top opening of each leg. Do not fasten off the second leg. After finishing the first leg, fasten off and leave a short tail.

Joining the Legs and Lower Body

Place the legs with toes facing forward. Join with 4 chains, then continue around both legs and both sides of the chain bridge. This creates a narrow standing stance, matching the image. The bunny should not have a wide seated body or oversized hips.

1. Round 1: 12 sc around first leg, 4 sc across chain, 12 sc around second leg, 4 sc on opposite side of chain. (32)
2. Round 2: sc around. (32)
3. Round 3: 7 sc, inc, 15 sc, inc, 8 sc. (34)
4. Round 4: sc around. (34)
5. Round 5: 8 sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, 8 sc. (36)
6. Rounds 6-9: sc around. (36)

The lower body is softly rounded but still slim enough to fit beneath the skirt. Stuff well through this section. The bunny in the picture has a gentle waist, so the next rounds begin tapering before the chest is formed.

7. Round 10: 4 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 16 sc. (34)
8. Round 11: sc around. (34)
9. Round 12: 4 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 15 sc. (32)
10. Round 13: sc around. (32)
11. Round 14: 3 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 15 sc. (30)
12. Round 15: sc around. (30)

Upper Body and Neck

The chest is small and neat, with shoulders slightly wider than the waist. The blouse and cardigan add visual volume later, so keep the base torso refined. A too-large torso will make the whole doll look heavy and unlike the original delicate proportion.

1. Round 1: 5 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 15 sc. (32)
2. Round 2: sc around. (32)
3. Round 3: 6 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 15 sc. (34)
4. Rounds 4-6: sc around. (34)
5. Round 7: 4 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 15 sc. (32)
6. Round 8: 3 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 15 sc. (30)
7. Round 9: 3 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 14 sc. (28)
8. Round 10: 2 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 14 sc. (26)
9. Round 11: sc around. (26)
10. Round 12: 11 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec. (24)
11. Rounds 13-15: sc around. (24)

Stuff the chest firmly and reinforce the neck with a rolled strip of felt, cotton swab stem, or extra tightly packed stuffing. The head is large compared to the neck, so support matters for the finished pose.

Head

The bunny’s head is round and smooth, slightly wider than tall when viewed from the front. It is not sharply pointed at the chin. The face needs a broad gentle front plane so the eyes, nose, blush, and hat all sit correctly. Use warm cream.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
8. Round 8: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
9. Rounds 9-18: sc around. (48)

Insert eyes between Rounds 12 and 13 with about 10 stitches between them. The eyes are set low enough to keep the bunny sweet, but not so low that the face looks babyish. Add a tiny piece of stuffing behind each eye area if you want a soft cheek contour.

10. Round 19: 6 sc, dec around. (42)
11. Round 20: 5 sc, dec around. (36)
12. Round 21: 4 sc, dec around. (30)
13. Round 22: 3 sc, dec around. (24)
14. Round 23: 2 sc, dec around. (18)

Stuff very firmly, shaping the head into a smooth ball. Continue decreasing only after you are satisfied with the face plane and crown.

15. Round 24: 1 sc, dec around. (12)
16. Round 25: dec around. (6)

Fasten off and close the opening neatly.

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Bunny Ears

Make 2 in light beige or warm cream. The ears are long, narrow, and softly flattened. They hang straight down from beneath the hat brim and reach roughly to the chest area. They are not wire-framed, and they should drape with a gentle natural fold.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rounds 4-8: sc around. (18)
5. Round 9: 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec. (16)
6. Rounds 10-22: sc around. (16)
7. Round 23: 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec. (14)
8. Rounds 24-28: sc around. (14)

Do not stuff, or add only a whisper of stuffing near the top. Flatten each ear and stitch the bottom opening closed. Leave a tail for sewing.

Arms

Make 2 in warm cream. The arms are slim tubes with tiny rounded hands. They sit slightly forward, allowing one arm to hold the honeysuckle stem and the other to support the tea cup. This forward placement is one of the most visible details in the photo.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rounds 3-4: sc around. (12)
4. Round 5: 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc. (10)
5. Rounds 6-18: sc around. (10)

Stuff only the lower hand area. Flatten the top and sew closed. Leave long tails.

Skirt

The skirt is a major visual feature. It should be full, round, and bell-shaped, beginning at the natural waist and falling to just above the ankles. Use camel brown. Work as a separate piece from the waist downward so you can test the fit against the body.

1. Foundation: ch 30 and join, or create a chainless ring that fits the waist snugly.
2. Round 1: sc around. (30)
3. Round 2: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
4. Round 3: sc around. (36)
5. Round 4: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
6. Round 5: sc around. (42)
7. Round 6: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
8. Round 7: sc around. (48)
9. Round 8: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
10. Rounds 9-13: sc around. (54)
11. Round 14: BLO sc around for a slight hem break. (54)
12. Rounds 15-16: sc around. (54)

The finished skirt should have a structured dome rather than a floppy drape. If you want more volume, line the inside with a simple felt underskirt. In the image, the skirt stands away from the legs slightly, helping the silhouette stay round and balanced.

Lavender Scallop Border

Join muted lavender in the final round or unused front loops near the hem. The small scallops are delicate and visible all around the bottom edge.

1. Round 1: [sl st, skip 1, 5 dc in next st, skip 1, sl st in next] around.

Add a thin green line just above the lavender scallops if you want the same subtle contrast seen in the image. This can be a simple embroidered running stitch or one round of surface slip stitch.

Blouse Front Tie Piece

The cream blouse peeks out beneath the cardigan and ties at the waist in two long narrow ends. This detail is essential. Without it, the front looks too plain. Work a small yoke-like panel that wraps lightly around the chest and ties in front.

1. Foundation: ch 26.
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (25)
3. Rows 2-6: sc across. (25)

For the collar shaping, fold the upper corners outward slightly when sewing. Add two tie cords by chaining 18 to 22 stitches on the lower front edges, then working slip stitches back for neat narrow ties. Sew the panel around the torso under the cardigan, leaving the ties loose at center front.

 

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Cardigan

The cardigan is cream and fitted, ending at the waist. It has long sleeves, a slight opening at the front, a folded collar, and vertical floral embroidery with tiny yellow buds. The stitches appear to be plain and tidy, so a simple sc or hdc structure works best.

Back and Front Body

1. Foundation: ch 30.
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (29)
3. Rows 2-7: sc across. (29)

Mark 5 stitches for each front panel and 19 stitches across the back and shoulders combined, adjusting as needed for fit. Shape a shallow neckline over the next rows so the cardigan sits open beneath the collar instead of meeting high at the neck.

Sew the side seams lightly, leaving armholes that match the slim arms. The cardigan should fit close to the body without pulling. Keep the hem straight and level because the blouse ties remain visible below it in the center front.

Sleeves

1. Pick up or sew sleeve pieces separately with 10 to 12 stitches around the arm opening.
2. Work 10 rows of sc or hdc evenly.
3. Fasten off, then sew around the armholes if made separately.

The sleeve ends are plain and not ruffled. They should reach the wrists so the hands remain visible for holding the accessories.

Collar

Join cream yarn around the neckline. Work one row of sc evenly, then one row in which the collar tips extend slightly at the front. You can do this by adding 2 extra stitches at each front corner. Fold the collar outward and tack it in place.

Front Buttons

• Make 2 or 3 tiny French-knot-style yarn buttons in golden tan.
• Place them vertically on the cardigan front.
• The cardigan remains slightly open, so buttons are decorative rather than functional.

Floral Embroidery

Using green yarn, embroider two vertical vines on the cardigan front panels. Add tiny leaves and small golden-yellow flower buds or berries. Keep the embroidery symmetrical but not identical. The motif should stay slim and delicate so it enhances the jacket instead of overpowering it.

Mary Jane Shoes

Make 2 in camel brown with warm cream soles. The shoes are rounded and neat, with a strap across the top and a tiny golden bow or knot detail. They are not boots. The opening should reveal the top of the foot just like classic Mary Janes.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR in cream. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. Round 4: BLO sc around in cream. (18)
5. Change to camel brown.
6. Round 5: sc around. (18)
7. Round 6: 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc. (14)
8. Round 7: sc around. (14)

For the strap, join yarn at one side opening, chain enough to cross the foot, and sew to the opposite side. Add a tiny yellow knot or bow at the outer side of each strap.

Tea Cup

The tea cup is tiny, held in the bunny’s right hand. It is white or cream with a pale yellow lower section and brown tea surface. Work it tightly so it keeps its shape.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR in cream. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: BLO sc around. (12)
4. Round 4: sc around. (12)
5. Round 5: switch to pale yellow, sc around. (12)
6. Round 6: switch to brown, sl st around lightly to suggest the tea surface.

Add a tiny handle with 3 to 4 chains attached on the side. Do not overstuff. A small circle of cardboard inside can help the cup keep a crisp rim.

Lantern Satchel

The bunny’s lantern hangs from a diagonal strap across the body and sits at the right hip. The outer bag is dark brown, with a warm yellow lantern center framed by crossed lines. This should read as a lantern-shaped pouch rather than a plain purse.

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Bag Body

1. Make 2 panels in dark brown: ch 9.
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (8)
3. Rows 2-10: sc across. (8)

Sew the panels together around the sides and bottom. Lightly stuff or insert felt to keep a boxy shape. On the front, stitch a yellow center panel, then embroider dark brown diagonal crisscross lines to mimic a lantern frame.

Strap

Chain a strap long enough to cross from the left shoulder to the right hip. Work slip stitches back along the chain for strength. Sew both ends securely to the bag top. Position it so the strap sits visibly across the blouse and cardigan.

Honeysuckle Stem

This floral branch is one of the loveliest details in the image. Use floral wire wrapped with green yarn or crocheted tightly around the wire. Make several leaves and trumpet-like blossoms in golden yellow and pale cream. The branch should angle naturally upward from the bunny’s left hand.

Leaves

• Ch 6.
• Work back along the chain: sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st.
• Fasten off, leaving a tail to wrap onto the stem.
• Make 6 to 8 leaves in two slightly different greens for a natural look.

Flowers

• Ch 5 and join into a tiny tube.
• Work a few sl st rounds to lengthen the trumpet base.
• Add 4 or 5 tiny pointed petals at one end using chains and slip stitches.
• Make 4 to 6 flowers in warm yellow and pale cream-yellow.

Wrap and attach the leaves and flowers around the stem in small clusters. Keep the blossoms light and airy. The branch should never look stiff or overfilled.

Bunny Hat

The hat is a rounded cloche in tan, sitting low on the forehead. It has a softly flared brim, not a wide sunhat brim. The crown should fit snugly over the head and leave room for the ears to emerge from underneath at the sides.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
8. Round 8: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
9. Rounds 9-15: sc around. (48)
10. Round 16: BLO sc around. (48)
11. Round 17: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
12. Round 18: sc around. (54)
13. Round 19: 8 sc, inc around. (60)
14. Round 20: sc around. (60)

Steam lightly or insert a slim ring of plastic canvas into the brim if needed. The brim should tip downward gently at the front and sides.

Hedgehog Companion

The hedgehog repeats the bunny’s palette and outfit so the pair feels coordinated. Keep the body squat and rounded. The face is pale, the back is dark textured brown, and the tiny arms and legs peek out from beneath the blouse and skirt.

Head and Body Combined

Use cream for the face/front and dark brown for the back/spines. You may switch colors while crocheting or make the face as an applied oval panel. A combined body works best to keep the miniature sturdy.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR with cream. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. Rounds 6-9: sc around, switching to dark brown across the back half. (30)
7. Round 10: sc around. (30)
8. Round 11: 3 sc, dec around. (24)
9. Round 12: sc around. (24)
10. Round 13: 2 sc, dec around. (18)

Insert 5 mm eyes low on the face with about 5 to 6 stitches between them. Embroider a small black nose centered below. Add tiny blush dots if desired.

14. Round 14: 1 sc, dec around. (12)
15. Round 15: dec around. (6)

Stuff firmly before closing. To imitate the fluffy spines, loop short lengths of dark brown yarn through the back surface or brush fuzzy yarn gently after assembly.

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Arms, Legs, and Ears

• Arms: make 2 tiny tubes, 6 sc in MR, then 6 rounds even. Lightly stuff the hands.
• Legs: make 2 tiny stubs, 6 sc in MR, increase to 8, then work 4 rounds even.
• Ears: make 2 small semicircles with 4 sc in MR, then one increase round.

Sew the arms slightly outward, the legs under the skirt line, and the ears close to the hat edge.

Hedgehog Clothing

Make a cream wrap-style top with a small collar and front tie, just like the bunny’s blouse. Add a simple camel brown skirt worked as a short flared tube. Make a miniature dark brown lantern bag and a tiny tan hat. The hat may include one tiny green leaf accent.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the head to the body securely, making sure the face points straight forward. Attach the ears first, slightly behind the eye line and angled downward. Try the hat on before fixing the ears permanently so the brim sits naturally over them.

Sew the arms at shoulder height with a slight forward tilt. Dress the bunny with the blouse panel first, then the skirt, then the cardigan. Tie the blouse at center front. Slip the shoes on and stitch them in place if needed for stability.

Place the tea cup in the right hand and tack it with a few tiny stitches. Sew or tie the honeysuckle stem into the left hand. Position the lantern satchel so the strap crosses from the left shoulder to the right hip. The lantern should rest over the skirt, not under it.

For the face, embroider a tiny horizontal nose in pale beige and a short vertical line descending to a delicate mouth split. Add faint pink blush under the eyes. Keep the features small and centered, because the soft simplicity is what makes the doll look gentle.

For the hedgehog, keep the expression equally calm. The small black nose should be round and neat. If the spines hide the head shape, trim or arrange them so the face remains clearly visible from the front.

Care Notes

• Display pieces with wire details out of reach of very young children.
• Use embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes for a fully child-oriented version.
• Avoid hanging the doll by the hat or bag strap.
• Store away from direct sunlight to preserve the warm neutral colors.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are the bunny ears even in length and sewn at matching angles?
• Does the hat sit low and rounded instead of wide and flat?
• Is the skirt full enough to form a bell shape?
• Are the blouse ties visible under the cardigan?
• Do the lantern strap and bag sit diagonally across the body?
• Does the hedgehog clearly match the bunny in style and palette?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a lightly damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid soaking pieces with stuffing, wire, or structural inserts. Reshape the hat brim, skirt, and ears while damp, then air dry flat. Keep accessories in a dust-free box when not displayed.

If fibers loosen over time, trim gently rather than pulling. For long-term storage, wrap each figure in acid-free tissue and keep them in a cool, dry place. Do not compress the hat brim or the hedgehog spines during storage.