Campsis Honey-Veranda Bunny – Crochet

This sweet bunny set is designed as a collectible amigurumi doll with a soft vintage wardrobe, floral accessories, and a tiny duck companion. It fits beautifully into searches for crochet doll, handmade bunny doll, amigurumi rabbit, collectible nursery decor, and artisan toy gift while still feeling warm and practical to make.

The full set includes the bunny, beret, bow, jacket, skirt, front flower panel, shoes, backpack, flower stems, watering can, and the small duck dressed to match. If you love making heirloom crochet toys, handmade stuffed animals, boutique amigurumi, and seasonal gift items, this project offers many charming details.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview

This design creates a standing long-eared bunny with a rounded head, small muzzle shaping, straight slim legs, simple arms, and a dressed body with a layered outfit. The color story is warm honey mustard, cream, soft leaf green, and small orange-gold flowers.

The visual balance matters in this set. The head is large and gentle, the body is hidden under the skirt and jacket, the ears fall below the jawline, and the accessories are scaled small enough to look delicate without feeling flimsy.

The bunny stands taller than the duck by about three times. The backpack reaches roughly from the bunny’s calf to below the jacket hem. The watering can is short and rounded. The flower stems are loose and slightly curved rather than stiff.

Materials

• Main bunny and duck body yarn: light cream
• Main outfit yarn: honey mustard
• Flower yarn: deep orange, golden yellow
• Leaf and stem yarn: dusty green and light sage
• Duck beak and feet yarn: muted peach-orange
• Optional lining accent: a slightly deeper honey tone if desired
• Hook: choose a size that gives tight amigurumi stitches with no visible gaps
• Stuffing: soft polyester fiberfill
• Safety eyes or solid black doll eyes: for bunny and duck
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker
• Fine scissors
• Optional floral wire or pipe cleaner: only if you want firmer flower stems, well secured and fully covered

Finished Size

The exact finished size depends on yarn weight and tension. With a tight amigurumi gauge, the bunny should be roughly doll-sized and clearly taller than the duck. The duck should sit around ankle-to-calf height beside the bunny, matching the visual proportions in the photo.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• rep = repeat

Design Notes

Work all amigurumi pieces in continuous rounds unless noted. Mark the first stitch of every round. Keep stitches firm and even so the surface stays smooth. The sample in the image has a clean, compact texture, so avoid loose tension.

The bunny’s head is nearly spherical but slightly wider through the cheeks. The muzzle is subtle. Do not overstuff the face. Gentle shaping gives the sweet expression. The ears are long, softly filled, and attached slightly behind the side line of the face.

The outfit is the main visual feature. The beret sits low on the forehead. The jacket is short and boxy with a soft scalloped lower edge. The skirt is lightly flared. The front apron-style panel carries raised floral embroidery.

Bunny Head

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR
2. Round 2: inc around 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around 18
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around 24
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around 30
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc around 36
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc around 42
8. Round 8: 6 sc, inc around 48
9. Round 9: 7 sc, inc around 54
10. Rounds 10-19: sc around 54
11. Round 20: 7 sc, dec around 48
12. Round 21: 6 sc, dec around 42
13. Round 22: 5 sc, dec around 36

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Insert the eyes between Rounds 13 and 14 with about 8 stitches between them, centered for a calm forward-facing look. The eyes in the image are not oversized. They are glossy, small, and placed wide enough to keep the face innocent.

Continue shaping after checking symmetry. Add stuffing gradually. Keep the lower face smooth because the tiny stitched nose and mouth need a flat area to sit neatly. The cheeks should look softly full, not squashed and not sharply sculpted.

1. Round 23: 4 sc, dec around 30
2. Round 24: 3 sc, dec around 24
3. Round 25: 2 sc, dec around 18

Stuff firmly but do not stretch the stitches. Leave a tail for closing and for sewing the head to the neck opening later. If you prefer, stop after Round 24, test the neck opening against the body, and then close once satisfied with the fit.

Bunny Nose and Mouth

Using pale blush or light beige yarn, embroider a small horizontal triangular nose centered slightly below the eye line. Add a very short vertical stitch down from the nose and a tiny split mouth. Keep it delicate. The expression should stay soft and minimal.

Bunny Ears Make 2

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR
2. Round 2: inc around 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around 18
4. Rounds 4-7: sc around 18
5. Round 8: 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec 16
6. Rounds 9-18: sc around 16

Flatten the ear gently and continue a few more rows in oval rounds if needed to reach the right length. The ears should hang from under the beret to just below the jaw and shoulder area, tapering slightly near the end.

1. Round 19: 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec 14
2. Rounds 20-24: sc around 14

Lightly stuff only the upper third of each ear. Leave the rest unstuffed so they drape naturally. Flatten the open edge and sew closed across the base. Do not make the ears thick. In the image, they fall flat and elegant against the coat.

Bunny Body

The body is mostly hidden by clothing, so shape it simply. It should support the large head and let the skirt sit smoothly. A narrow upper torso and slightly rounded lower torso will give the correct silhouette without adding bulk.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR
2. Round 2: inc around 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around 18
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around 24
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around 30
6. Rounds 6-9: sc around 30
7. Round 10: 3 sc, dec around 24
8. Rounds 11-13: sc around 24
9. Round 14: 2 sc, dec around 18
10. Rounds 15-16: sc around 18

Stuff firmly. The neck opening should align with the head opening and stay stable. If you want extra support, insert a wrapped support stick securely inside the neck and torso, but make sure it is fully enclosed and safe.

Bunny Legs Make 2

The legs are slim, straight, and cream-colored. Most of the foot is hidden by the shoes, so the foot section can stay basic. The visible part is the lower leg, which should appear narrow and neat beneath the skirt.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR
2. Round 2: inc around 12
3. Rounds 3-5: sc around 12
4. Round 6: BLO sc around 12
5. Rounds 7-18: sc around 12

Stuff lightly through the foot and lower leg, then a bit firmer toward the top so the legs remain straight. Leave long tails for sewing. Position them under the body so the bunny can stand when balanced with the skirt and shoes.

Bunny Arms Make 2

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR
2. Round 2: inc around 12
3. Rounds 3-4: sc around 12
4. Round 5: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec 10
5. Rounds 6-16: sc around 10

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Stuff the hands lightly and leave the upper arm mostly unstuffed so it can sit close to the jacket. The arms in the image are simple tubes ending in small cream paws, with honey sleeves covering most of the length.

Beret

The beret is one of the signature pieces. It is rounded, soft, and slightly oversized, with a lower band that hugs the head. It should rest low across the forehead and tilt gently to one side, just like the sample.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR
2. Round 2: inc around 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around 18
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around 24
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around 30
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc around 36
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc around 42
8. Round 8: 6 sc, inc around 48
9. Round 9: 7 sc, inc around 54
10. Round 10: 8 sc, inc around 60
11. Rounds 11-16: sc around 60
12. Round 17: 8 sc, dec around 54
13. Round 18: 7 sc, dec around 48
14. Round 19: 6 sc, dec around 42
15. Round 20: BLO sc around 42
16. Round 21: sc around 42
17. Round 22: 5 sc, dec around 36
18. Round 23: sc around 36

Try the beret on the head. It should sit snugly but not tightly. If needed, add or subtract one round before the band decrease. The upper crown should still look plush and rounded rather than flat.

Beret Bow

Make a small narrow rectangle in honey mustard, then cinch the center.

1. Ch 9
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across 8
3. Rows 2-5: ch 1, turn, sc across 8

Wrap the center tightly with yarn and sew one side into a small folded knot shape so it looks like the bow detail in the image. Attach it near the right front side of the beret band.

Jacket

The jacket is short, open in front, and ends near the upper skirt. It has long sleeves and a softly decorative lower edge. The image shows a fitted little cardigan with a simple texture and no collar. The front opening remains visible.

Work the jacket from the neckline downward in rows so the front opening is centered. Adjust fit directly on the bunny body as you go. The jacket should skim the torso without looking oversized.

1. Ch enough to fit around the upper torso and arm openings when worked as a yoke.
2. Work short yoke rows in sc or hdc, increasing at four corner points if desired.
3. Separate for sleeves and body once the yoke reaches just below the shoulder line.
4. Continue the body in rows to a cropped length ending above the skirt midpoint.

A practical stitch count for many small dolls is to begin with roughly 28 to 34 chains, then shape a tiny raglan. The front edges should remain straight and neat. The jacket in the photo does not overlap much, so keep the opening visible.

Body Section of Jacket

• Work evenly for several rows until the jacket reaches the waist.
• At the final two rows, make slight outward shaping near each lower front corner.
• Add a decorative shell-like trim or rounded bobble trim along the lower edge.

The trim is important. The image shows a subtle scalloped or petal-like edging, especially at the hem corners and sleeve cuffs. Keep it refined. Large ruffles will change the look too much.

Sleeves

Join yarn at each arm opening and work in rounds or rows to the wrist. The sleeves are gently tapered, ending with a small decorative cuff. They should be slim and long enough to leave only the cream paws visible.

• Work sleeve rounds evenly
• Reduce slightly near the wrist
• Finish with a tiny shell or picot-like effect using the stitches you prefer

Skirt

The skirt is honey mustard and softly flared. It begins at the waist and widens downward with even increases. The front surface carries an attached panel with embroidered flowers, so keep the underlying skirt smooth and not too textured.

1. Ch to fit the waist or work directly around the lower body
2. Round 1: sc evenly around
3. Round 2: sc around
4. Round 3: increase evenly around
5. Rounds 4-5: sc around
6. Round 6: increase evenly around
7. Rounds 7-9: sc around
8. Round 10: increase evenly around
9. Rounds 11-13: sc around

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The skirt should flare enough to form a gentle bell shape but still hang close to the body. In the image it is not frilly. It looks tailored and slightly structured, which helps the floral front panel stand out clearly.

Skirt Hem

Add one finishing round in a slightly textured or raised stitch. Keep the hem modest. A strong ruffle would overpower the neat silhouette. The hem should read as crisp and handcrafted, not bulky.

Front Floral Panel

This piece sits over the front of the skirt like a neat apron panel. It is slightly trapezoid-shaped, wider at the bottom than the top. The embroidery is the focal point and includes stems, leaves, and clustered rounded blossoms in orange and yellow.

1. Ch a short width for the top of the panel
2. Work in rows of sc
3. Add one stitch at each side every few rows to widen gradually
4. Continue until the panel reaches from waist area to just above the skirt hem

Once the panel is complete, edge it in one round or row of sc. Sew it flat to the front center of the skirt, attaching only along the edges so it remains distinct from the base skirt.

Floral Embroidery

Use surface embroidery, crocheted appliqué circles, or tiny popcorn-like flower centers. The image shows two floral groupings that rise diagonally upward from the lower center area. Each grouping has leaves on both sides and rounded blossoms at the top.

• Stems: use green yarn and embroider slightly slanted lines
• Leaves: make small detached chain leaves or tiny crocheted leaf appliqués
• Flowers: make 3 to 4 rounded blossoms in deep orange and soft yellow

Keep the flowers dimensional but small. They should not stick out too far. Place them carefully so the composition mirrors the image: balanced, garden-like, and concentrated on the panel rather than spread across the whole skirt.

Shoes Make 2

The bunny wears mustard shoes with a strap and a tiny flower detail near the outer side. They resemble soft Mary Jane shoes. The toe is rounded and low, with the cream foot visible through the upper opening.

1. Start with a small oval sole in honey mustard
2. Work several rounds around the sole to build the side wall
3. Shape the toe by working partial rounds across the front
4. Leave an upper opening on top
5. Add a narrow strap from one side to the other

For the flower detail, make a tiny rolled knot or miniature layered blossom in matching mustard or a slightly richer honey tone. Sew it near the outer ankle side where the strap meets the shoe edge.

Backpack

The backpack is a small rectangular satchel in honey mustard with a top flap and floral decoration matching the skirt panel. It sits on the ground in the image, so it should be structured enough to hold its shape without collapsing completely.

Main Backpack Body

1. Make a flat rectangle for the back
2. Continue around or join a matching front panel
3. Add depth with side strips or by building from the rectangle edge
4. Close the lower and side seams neatly

The bag is taller than it is wide, with softly rounded upper corners. It should look like a practical miniature backpack rather than a purse. Keep the texture dense and upright.

Flap

Work a separate rounded flap or continue from the back panel. The flap should cover the upper front portion of the bag. Add the same style of floral embroidery used on the skirt panel, but keep the arrangement smaller.

Straps and Handle

• Make two narrow shoulder straps
• Make one small top loop handle
• Sew the straps to the back in a tidy vertical arrangement

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The straps in the photo are simple and understated. Do not make them too thick. The focus should remain on the floral flap.

Flower Stems

The loose flowers placed beside the bag are long, flexible stems with multiple leaves and hanging trumpet-like blossoms. They echo the Campsis theme and should feel organic rather than stiff or perfectly symmetrical.

Stem Base

• Chain a stem length in green
• Work back with slip stitches or very tight sc
• Create side branches by joining green yarn and repeating short chains

Leaves

Make small pointed leaves in green. A simple method is to chain 4 to 6, then work sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st back down. Sew or crochet them directly to the stem branches in pairs or alternating positions.

Trumpet Flowers

For each blossom, begin at the narrow base in orange or yellow. Work a tiny tube, then increase into a flared opening. The flower should look like a mini trumpet bloom. Make several in mixed warm shades and attach at the branch tips.

Let the finished stems curve naturally. Avoid over-wiring unless necessary. The sample flowers look soft and draped, which suits the gentle handmade style of the whole set.

Watering Can

The watering can is a miniature rounded vessel in honey mustard. It has a short body, tiny handle, and curved spout. Keep it simple and cute. It should look like a decorative dollhouse accessory rather than a realistic full-scale can.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR
2. Round 2: inc around 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around 18
4. Rounds 4-6: sc around 18
5. Round 7: 4 sc, dec around 15
6. Round 8: sc around 15

Stuff lightly if you want it firm, or leave unstuffed and shape with dense stitching. Add a small flat base if needed so it sits upright. Create a narrow tube for the spout and a curved chain-based handle for the back.

Duck Body

The duck is short, round, and compact. It wears a matching beret, a tiny vest, and a skirt. Its head blends smoothly into the body, and the beak is soft peach-orange. The overall tone should coordinate with the bunny without stealing focus.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR
2. Round 2: inc around 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around 18
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around 24
5. Rounds 5-9: sc around 24
6. Round 10: 2 sc, dec around 18
7. Round 11: sc around 18
8. Round 12: 1 sc, dec around 12

Insert the eyes before closing, placed low enough to make room for the beak between them. The duck should be stuffed firmly enough to sit upright but not become oval or stretched.

Duck Beak

Make a tiny oval or folded half-round in muted peach-orange. Sew it centered between the eyes. It should project only slightly. In the image, the beak is short and sweet, not long or pointed.

Duck Wings Make 2

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR
2. Round 2: sc, inc around 9
3. Rounds 3-4: sc around 9

Flatten and sew to the sides of the body. Keep them small and close-fitting so the vest can sit over them cleanly.

Duck Feet Make 2

Make tiny flat peach-orange feet with a rounded front. Sew them at the base so the duck can balance. They should peek out under the skirt edge.

Duck Beret

Use the bunny beret method on a smaller scale. The duck’s beret should sit lightly on top of the head with a gentle tilt. No large bow is needed unless you want a closer match to the overall styling.

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Duck Vest

Work a tiny open-front vest in honey mustard. Keep it short and slightly textured. It should frame the cream body and sit above the skirt. Add one small decorative floral touch near the lower front if desired.

Duck Skirt

Make a shallow flared skirt in honey mustard. It should sit under the vest and echo the bunny’s outfit. Do not make it too long. The duck’s feet should remain visible below the hem.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the bunny legs to the body evenly so the stance is straight. Attach the head firmly and check that it faces forward. Sew the ears slightly behind the side face line. Add the beret low on the forehead and secure the bow on one side.

Dress the bunny with the jacket, skirt, and front floral panel. Add the shoes last so the feet angle naturally. For the duck, attach beak, wings, feet, beret, vest, and skirt in that order. Keep all facial details minimal and balanced.

Care Notes

• Store away from direct sunlight to protect the warm honey tones
• Handle floral stems and tiny trims gently
• Avoid rough pulling on straps, bow, and shoe flowers
• Keep the set dry and dust-free when displayed

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Beret sits low and slightly to one side
• Ears hang evenly and stay soft
• Jacket remains cropped and open at the front
• Skirt flares gently without heavy ruffling
• Front floral panel is centered
• Backpack flap embroidery matches the skirt palette
• Duck is clearly smaller and dressed to coordinate
• Watering can and flowers feel scaled to the doll

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean first with a lightly damp cloth and mild soap. Do not scrub the embroidered flowers. Reshape the beret, skirt, and backpack while drying. If the piece needs fuller cleaning, wash gently by hand in cool water and dry flat on a towel.

For long-term preservation, store the set in a breathable container with tissue support under the beret and skirt. Avoid plastic compression for long periods. If displayed upright, rotate the accessories occasionally so delicate parts keep their shape.

Closing Notes for the Maker

This set depends on proportion and finishing more than complicated stitches. Take your time with placement, especially the beret, floral panel, bow, and duck outfit. Those details create the exact honey-garden feeling that makes the design special.

When every piece is assembled with care, the result is a gentle coordinated scene: a dressed bunny, a tiny duck friend, a flowered backpack, loose blossoms, and a small watering can. That full arrangement is what gives this project its storybook charm.