Velvet Parlor Bunny – Knitting

This charming knitted set is designed to recreate the exact storybook scene of a soft cream bunny dressed in a deep red skirt with matching shoes, bows, and a tiny parlor bag, plus a woodland fox friend and small tabletop props. It has the look of a handmade knitted bunny doll, an heirloom stuffed rabbit, a nursery gift, and a collectible knit animal set all in one. The finished pieces are ideal for display, gifting, or anyone searching for a beautifully styled artisan toy bunny with coordinated accessories.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design includes every knitted item visible in the image. You will make the main bunny, the face-framing ruffle, the neck ruffle, the deep red bow at the neck, the red pleated skirt, the yellow waist bow, the tiny sleeve bow, and the pair of red Mary Jane shoes.

You will also make the matching red-and-cream handbag, the small red mushroom, the fox companion in a green hood and sweater, the fox’s little basket, the stack of books, the green yarn ball, and the pair of straight knitting needles shown on the table.

The overall style is soft, classic, and carefully proportioned. The bunny is larger than the other pieces and should sit securely with slightly forward legs, relaxed hanging ears, rounded paws, and a calm centered expression. The accessories are small but important to the finished look.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: DK weight in warm cream or soft ivory
• Skirt, shoes, bows, bag, mushroom cap: DK weight in deep wine red
• Waist bow: DK weight in pale butter yellow
• Fox body: DK weight in fox orange
• Fox muzzle, inner ears, basket, book pages: DK weight in oatmeal or light beige
• Fox paws and lower legs: DK weight in dark brown
• Fox sweater and hood: DK weight in moss green
• Books: scraps in gray blue, cream, muted red, olive, and taupe
• Yarn ball prop: small scrap of green yarn
• Needles: 2.75 mm and 3.0 mm knitting needles or size needed for a firm fabric
• Double-pointed needles: for small tubes and tiny items
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
• Black embroidery thread: for eyes and nose details
• Thin floral wire or soft craft wire: optional for bag handle support
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas: optional base inserts for bag and books

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge: 26 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette worked flat with firm tension. Exact gauge matters most for the relative proportions, not the final absolute size. Keep the fabric dense so stuffing does not show through.

Finished bunny height: about 12 inches seated, measured from table to top of head ruffle. Ears extend to the sides rather than upward. Fox height is about 5 inches. Bag height is about 2 inches. Mushroom is about 2 inches tall.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• rep = repeat
• BO = bind off

Construction Notes

• The bunny is made in separate pieces and sewn together for the most accurate shaping.
• Work all body parts at a firm gauge.
• Stuff gradually and evenly. Keep the face smooth and the limbs softly filled, not hard.
• The face is simple and centered. Its charm comes from proportion, not heavy detail.
• The skirt should flare outward with soft vertical folds.
• The shoes should sit rounded at the front with a clear instep opening.
• The fox and props are small display pieces and may be lightly stuffed.

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Main Bunny

Head

The head is a rounded oval with gentle cheek fullness and a narrower chin than forehead. Work two mirrored head panels and seam them, leaving the lower edge open for joining to the neck. This gives the smoothest face and the most control over expression placement.

1. CO 14 stitches in cream.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, K1. 16 stitches.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Repeat the increase row every RS row 6 more times. 28 stitches.
6. Work 14 rows even in St st.
7. Shape upper head: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1 on next RS row. Purl WS row.
8. Repeat those decrease rows 5 more times. 16 stitches.
9. Work 2 rows even.
10. Decrease on next RS row in the same manner once more. 14 stitches.
11. BO knitwise.

Make a second matching panel. Sew the curved sides together from crown downward, leaving the bottom open. Turn right side out. Stuff the forehead and cheeks first, then fill the rest more lightly so the chin remains soft and not boxy.

The face should look broad, calm, and slightly flattened at the front. Avoid overstuffing. The image shows a smooth face with very subtle muzzle shaping, so the center front should remain even rather than strongly protruding.

Muzzle Shaping and Face

Thread cream yarn on a tapestry needle. Make a very small vertical stitch line from the nose point downward to form the split mouth. Add two angled mouth stitches branching from the lower end, creating a soft Y shape. Keep it short and centered.

Embroider the nose in matching cream or slightly darker beige so it blends gently into the face. Use a small triangular shape with rounded corners. The eyes are tiny black embroidered French knots or satin dots set wide apart and slightly above the nose line.

Place the eyes about one-third down from the top of the head panel, with several stitches between them. The expression in the image is quiet, sweet, and almost neutral. Do not add eyelashes, blush, or extra facial sculpting.

Ears

The ears are long, flat, and softly drooping. They are not stiff or pointed. Each ear is worked as two panels, then sewn and lightly stuffed only at the base. Most of the length remains unstuffed so the ear hangs naturally beside the face.

1. CO 10 stitches in cream.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, K1. 12 stitches.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Repeat increase row every RS row 3 more times. 18 stitches.
6. Work 18 rows even in St st.
7. Shape tip: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1 on RS rows, with WS rows purled.
8. Repeat until 8 stitches remain.
9. Work 2 rows even.
10. Decrease every RS row to 4 stitches, then BO.

Make 4 ear panels total. Sew pairs together. Lightly add a small amount of stuffing only in the top third. Flatten the rest with your fingers. Sew each ear low on the sides of the head so they emerge just beneath the face-framing ruffle and fall outward at a gentle diagonal.

Face-Framing Ruffle

This ruffle sits around the head like a bonnet frill without a full cap. It frames the forehead and cheeks, leaving the face open. The frill should be soft, scalloped, and slightly gathered, not stiff. Work it as one long strip and sew it around the face opening.

1. CO 72 stitches in cream.
2. Rows 1 and 2: K all stitches.
3. Row 3 RS: K1, kfb across row. 108 stitches.
4. Row 4 WS: K all stitches.
5. Row 5 RS: K2, kfb across row. Increase evenly to about 144 stitches.
6. Rows 6 to 10: Knit every row for a soft garter frill.
7. BO loosely.

Gather the inner long edge very lightly and curve it around the face from one lower cheek, over the crown, to the other lower cheek. The frill should sit proud around the face with rounded ripples. Do not cover the ears. The ears begin behind it.

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Body

The body is an upright pear shape with a narrow upper chest and fuller lower section hidden by the skirt. Work front and back separately for clean shoulder lines. The finished torso should sit stable and allow the skirt to flare naturally from the waist.

1. CO 18 stitches in cream.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, K1. 20 stitches.
4. Repeat increase row every RS row 5 more times. 30 stitches.
5. Work 20 rows even in St st.
6. Shape waist very slightly: decrease 1 stitch at each side on next RS row. 28 stitches.
7. Work 6 rows even.
8. Shape armhole/upper body: BO 2 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows. 24 stitches.
9. Work 8 rows even.
10. Shape shoulders: BO 5 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
11. Place remaining 14 stitches on holder for neck edge.

Work the second panel the same way. Sew sides and shoulders. Stuff the lower body more firmly than the upper chest. The body should be broad enough to support the skirt and keep the bunny seated upright without collapsing to one side.

Neck Ruffle

The neck ruffle is separate from the face ruffle. It forms a soft standing collar around the neckline and sits above the sweater-like cream upper body. In the image, it looks like a neat rippled band with enough fullness to cradle the neck bow.

1. CO 48 stitches in cream.
2. Rows 1 and 2: Knit.
3. Row 3: K1, kfb across. 72 stitches.
4. Rows 4 to 8: Knit.
5. BO loosely.

Join the short ends to form a ring. Sew the ring around the neckline with the seam at the back. Let the ruffle stand upward and slightly outward. It should not be floppy or long. Keep it compact and tidy.

Arms

The arms are simple tubes with rounded hands. They are moderately stuffed and angled slightly downward. The right arm in the image includes a tiny deep red bow near the wrist area, which should be added after assembly.

1. CO 10 stitches in cream.
2. Work in St st for 4 rows.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each side on next RS row. 12 stitches.
4. Work 20 rows even.
5. Decrease 1 stitch at each side on next RS row. 10 stitches.
6. Work 6 rows even.
7. BO.

Make 4 arm panels total. Sew into two tubes. Stuff lightly to medium, keeping the hands softly rounded. Sew to the body just below the neck ruffle. Angle them slightly away from the body so the silhouette remains relaxed and balanced.

Legs

The legs are straight, lightly shaped tubes that widen slightly at the top. They extend forward beneath the skirt and are visible from the knees downward. Because the bunny is seated, the top of each leg is attached forward and low on the body.

1. CO 12 stitches in cream.
2. Work 6 rows in St st.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each side on next RS row. 14 stitches.
4. Work 22 rows even.
5. Increase 1 stitch at each side on next RS row. 16 stitches.
6. Work 8 rows even.
7. BO.

Make 4 leg panels. Sew into two tubes. Stuff firmly at the lower section and slightly less firmly near the top. Sew to the lower front of the body so they project forward rather than hanging straight down. This is important for matching the seated pose.

Clothing and Bunny Accessories

Neck Bow

The bow at the throat is a small but important detail. It is deep red and neatly tied-looking. Make it as a narrow rectangle pinched at the center with a tiny wrap strip.

1. CO 8 stitches in deep red.
2. Knit 10 rows in garter stitch.
3. BO.

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Make a center wrap by knitting a strip of 2 stitches for 4 rows. Wrap tightly around the middle rectangle and sew securely. Attach the finished bow to the front center of the neck ruffle.

Sleeve Bow

Make a second, smaller red bow for the bunny’s wrist area.

1. CO 5 stitches in deep red.
2. Knit 6 rows.
3. BO.

Wrap the center with a few stitches of the same yarn and sew near the lower outer arm, slightly above the hand. Position it so it is visible from the front.

Waist Bow

This bow is pale yellow and sits at the upper edge of the skirt, slightly off-center at the bunny’s left side. It brightens the red and cream palette and must remain smaller than the handbag bow but larger than the sleeve bow.

1. CO 10 stitches in pale yellow.
2. Knit 8 rows.
3. BO.

Make a tiny wrap strip as before. Pinch the center and sew the bow to the waistline after the skirt is attached. Angle the ends slightly downward for a soft ribbon effect.

Skirt

The skirt is a rich deep red with a softly pleated appearance. It falls from the waist to just above the ankles and flares in a wide bell shape when the bunny is seated. Work it from the top down as a gathered strip, then seam and attach.

1. CO 96 stitches in deep red.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K1, P1 rib.
3. Row 5 RS: K all.
4. Row 6 WS: P all.
5. Rows 7 to 26: Continue in St st.
6. To encourage vertical folds, work a purl ridge on every 6th row on the RS side, or use gentle steaming later.
7. Rows 27 to 30: Knit in garter stitch for a soft hem edge.
8. BO loosely.

Sew the short ends together. Run gathering yarn through the ribbed top edge and draw in until it fits the bunny waist. Sew in place with the fullness distributed evenly. The front should show several soft vertical folds, not sharp pressed pleats.

Mary Jane Shoes

The shoes are bright deep red and rounded. Each shoe has a solid toe, enclosed sides, and an open instep with a narrow strap line effect. They should fit over the lower feet snugly and sit flat on the table surface.

Work the sole and upper separately for each shoe.

Sole of Each Shoe

1. CO 8 stitches in deep red.
2. Row 1: Knit.
3. Row 2: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, K1. 10 stitches.
4. Row 3: Knit.
5. Repeat increase row once. 12 stitches.
6. Work 8 rows even.
7. Decrease once at each side on next row. 10 stitches.
8. Work 2 rows.
9. BO.

Upper of Each Shoe

1. CO 12 stitches in deep red.
2. Work 10 rows in St st.
3. Shape instep opening: BO 3 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
4. Work remaining center stitches for 4 rows.
5. BO.

Sew the upper to the sole, forming a rounded front. Slip the shoe over the foot and tack in place. Leave the instep opening visible. Add a narrow knitted strap if desired by making a 2-stitch i-cord and attaching it across the opening.

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Handbag

The handbag is a small red purse with a cream scalloped top edge, a cream handle, and a red bow on the front. It sits beside the bunny and should hold its shape. Use optional insert material if you want a crisp display finish.

1. CO 12 stitches in deep red.
2. Work 14 rows in St st.
3. BO.

Make two matching red panels. For the gusset, CO 4 stitches and knit a strip long enough to go around both sides and bottom. Sew together to form a small bag body. Lightly stuff or insert cardboard base.

For the cream top trim, pick up stitches around the opening and work 3 rows in garter stitch. On the final row, create tiny scallops by working k2tog, yo across if desired, then bind off knitwise on the following row.

For the handle, work a narrow i-cord or knit a strip of 3 stitches for 16 rows in cream. Sew firmly to the inner top edges. Make a red bow as for the neck bow, scaled slightly larger, and sew to the bag front center.

Mushroom

The small mushroom has a cream stem and a rounded red cap dotted with tiny white embroidered spots. It is a simple prop but helps complete the woodland tabletop feeling of the image.

Stem

1. CO 8 stitches in cream.
2. Work 10 rows in St st.
3. BO.

Sew into a tube. Stuff lightly. Gather the top slightly so it narrows where it meets the cap.

Cap

1. CO 10 stitches in deep red.
2. Increase 1 stitch at each side every RS row 3 times. 16 stitches.
3. Work 6 rows even.
4. Decrease 1 stitch at each side every RS row 3 times. 10 stitches.
5. BO.

Make two cap panels, sew together, and lightly stuff. Attach to stem. Embroider several tiny white dots on the cap surface. Keep them irregular and small, just like fly agaric spots viewed in a miniature stylized form.

Fox Companion

The fox is slim, upright, and smaller than the bunny by a wide margin. Its head is orange with a light muzzle, dark nose, pointed ears with darker tips, and a calm face. It wears a moss green sweater and a matching cap with a tiny top nub.

Fox Head

1. CO 10 stitches in fox orange.
2. Increase at each side every RS row 5 times. 20 stitches.
3. Work 10 rows even.
4. Decrease at each side every RS row 5 times. 10 stitches.
5. BO.

Make two panels. Before closing fully, add a beige muzzle patch to the lower front. This can be a small oval knitted separately with 6 stitches, worked for 4 rows, then sewn down. Embroider tiny black eyes and a small black nose.

Fox Ears

1. CO 4 stitches in orange.
2. Increase at each side every RS row twice. 8 stitches.
3. Work 2 rows even.
4. Switch to dark brown for 2 rows.
5. Decrease at each side every RS row twice. 4 stitches.
6. BO.

Make 4 ear panels, sew into two ears, and attach to the head top corners. Keep them alert and triangular.

Fox Body

1. CO 12 stitches in orange.
2. Increase at each side every RS row 3 times. 18 stitches.
3. Work 12 rows even.
4. Decrease once at each side. 16 stitches.
5. Work 4 rows.
6. BO.

Make front and back, sew, and stuff lightly to medium. The fox should remain slender, not round.

Fox Arms

1. CO 6 stitches in orange.
2. Work 8 rows.
3. BO.

Make four panels. Sew into two slim tubes and attach at the upper sides of the body.

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Fox Legs

1. CO 6 stitches in dark brown.
2. Work 4 rows.
3. Switch to orange and work 10 rows.
4. BO.

Make four panels. Sew into two narrow legs and attach beneath the body, keeping the feet slightly apart.

Fox Sweater

The sweater is a simple moss green top that covers the torso and upper arms. It should fit close and smooth, with no large collar.

1. CO 18 stitches in green.
2. Work 4 rows in K1, P1 rib.
3. Work 10 rows in St st.
4. BO 2 stitches at each side for arm openings.
5. Work 4 rows even.
6. BO.

Sew into a little vest and place onto the fox body before final arm attachment if preferred.

Fox Hood Cap

The cap is short and close-fitting with a rounded point ending in a tiny nub. It frames the fox ears without fully covering them.

1. CO 24 stitches in green.
2. Work 4 rows in rib.
3. Work 8 rows in St st.
4. Decrease 4 stitches evenly on next RS row.
5. Work 1 row.
6. Decrease 4 stitches evenly again.
7. Draw yarn through remaining stitches and pull closed.

Make a tiny pom or knitted nub and sew to the top center. Fit the cap snugly over the fox head.

Fox Basket

The fox carries a small neutral-colored basket. It is shaped like a miniature tote with an open top and a narrow handle.

1. CO 8 stitches in beige.
2. Work 10 rows in garter stitch.
3. BO.

Make two panels and a narrow side strip. Sew into a shallow bag. Add a 3-stitch handle worked for 10 rows. Shape the handle into a curve and attach securely. Light stuffing helps the basket stay open and rounded.

Books

The books are stacked beside the fox and should be very small, flat rectangles in muted colors. Each book has a colored cover and pale page edges. Make three or four slim books for the same effect as the image.

1. CO 8 stitches in cover color.
2. Work 4 rows.
3. Switch to cream and work 1 row for page edge.
4. Switch back to cover color and work 4 rows.
5. BO.

Fold each rectangle into a little padded book and seam the sides. You may insert a thin card sliver inside for crispness. Stack the books slightly unevenly in muted blue, red, olive, and cream tones.

Yarn Ball and Needles

The green yarn ball is tiny and round. Wind green yarn repeatedly around two fingers, remove carefully, tie at the center, then wrap more yarn around in alternating directions until a small ball is formed. Tuck the tail neatly underneath.

The two needles may be made from real short metal craft pins, trimmed floral wire, or simply omitted in soft-only versions. If making knitted faux needles, wrap gray yarn tightly around thin wire and bend to a gentle straight form.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff the bunny head.
2. Embroider the face before attaching the ruffles.
3. Make and attach the ears.
4. Sew the face-framing ruffle around the head.
5. Sew and stuff the body.
6. Make the neck ruffle and attach it.
7. Make arms and legs, stuff, and sew to body.
8. Attach head securely to body.
9. Sew on skirt.
10. Add shoes.
11. Add neck bow, sleeve bow, and waist bow.
12. Make the handbag, mushroom, fox, basket, books, and yarn ball.

Styling and Proportion Tips

• The bunny head should look slightly larger than the torso.
• The ears must be long enough to reach below the shoulder line.
• The face ruffle should sit high and rounded, framing but not hiding the cheeks.
• The skirt should be fuller than you think, because the seated pose compresses it visually.
• The shoes should be broad and rounded, not narrow.
• The fox should stand at about knee height compared with the bunny.
• The handbag should reach roughly from the bunny wrist to mid-thigh when placed beside her.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the symmetry of the head before securing it to the body. The eyes should be small, evenly spaced, and level. The nose should sit centered between them, slightly lower, with a short vertical line and tiny curved mouth stitches.

Attach the ears so they angle outward and downward. Sew the face ruffle in a soft arc from one cheek to the other. It should look airy and gathered. The neck ruffle sits lower and should not compete with the face ruffle.

When placing the skirt, keep the waistband high and neat. Sew the yellow bow slightly to one side. Position the sleeve bow low on the arm. The handbag, mushroom, fox, books, and yarn should be arranged around the bunny exactly as tabletop display accents.

Care Notes

• Display indoors and away from direct sun to protect the deep red shades.
• Handle the face and ruffles gently so the shaping stays smooth.
• Keep tiny props away from very young children.
• If gifting, pack the fox and small accessories separately.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Is the bunny face centered and calm?
• Do both ears hang at the same general level?
• Does the face ruffle frame the cheeks evenly?
• Does the neck bow sit at the center front?
• Is the skirt full and balanced all around?
• Are both shoes level and rounded?
• Have you included the handbag, mushroom, fox, basket, books, and yarn ball?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap only when needed. Blot gently rather than rubbing. Reshape while drying flat. Do not machine wash, soak, or twist, especially after the facial embroidery and tiny bows are attached.

For long-term storage, wrap the bunny and fox in acid-free tissue and place them in a breathable cotton bag or box. Keep the small props together in a separate pouch. Avoid plastic sealing in humid conditions.

If the ruffles flatten over time, use light steam held at a safe distance and shape with clean fingers. Let the pieces dry fully before display. Proper care will help preserve the soft heirloom look of this knitted set for many seasons.