Knitting Tutorial: Spring Tulip Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This charming spring knitting project creates a heirloom-style bunny doll with a tulip skirt, soft green hat, tiny market bag, three knitted tulips, a small frog friend in overalls, and a simple pinwheel. It is designed for knit toy lovers who enjoy collectible handmade dolls, nursery decor, seasonal gift knitting, and boutique-style stuffed animal patterns. The finished set has a refined handcrafted look, making it ideal for knitters searching for bunny doll patterns, spring toy knitting ideas, handmade Easter decor, and artisan knitted gift projects to sell, gift, or display.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US English and is worked mostly flat in stockinette stitch, then seamed and stuffed. A few very small items may be worked on double-pointed needles if you prefer, but every section below is written so a flat knitter can complete the full set.

The bunny has a large rounded head, a slim straight body, long soft ears, narrow arms, long legs with distinct shoes, and a gathered skirt placed at the natural waist. One sleeve appears cream and the other appears pale sage in the image, so the pattern includes that exact color placement.

The doll sits at the table edge with long dangling legs. The proportions in the photo suggest a finished bunny height of about 15 inches from the top of the hat to the bottom of the shoes, with the body alone about 11 inches tall before the hat is added.

The frog is much smaller, roughly one-fifth the bunny’s height. The tulips are plump and simple, the hat is a close-fitting cloche shape, and the mesh bag is open and flexible rather than stiff.

Materials

• Main yarn A: light cream or warm ivory for bunny head, body, ears, collar, and one arm.
• Main yarn B: pale sage green for hat, skirt base, one sleeve, and upper shoe trim.
• Main yarn C: dark forest green for shoe soles and straps.
• Main yarn D: rose pink for two tulip petals in the skirt motif.
• Main yarn E: golden yellow for one tulip petal in the skirt motif and one hand tulip bloom.
• Main yarn F: bright red for two hand tulip blooms.
• Main yarn G: medium leaf green for tulip stems and leaves.
• Main yarn H: frog green for frog body and head.
• Main yarn I: mustard for frog overalls.
• Main yarn J: tan or flax for mesh bag.
• Main yarn K: small scraps in purple, mustard, and muted red for the pinwheel.
• Needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm straight needles, plus US 1.5 / 2.5 mm if you knit very loosely.
• Optional: double-pointed needles in the same size for tiny pieces.
• Stuffing: small amount of polyester fiberfill.
• Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers, sewing pins, black embroidery floss, cream sewing thread, green sewing thread, and one tiny button for the shoe strap accent if desired.

Gauge and Finished Size

• Gauge: 8 stitches and 12 rows = 1 inch in stockinette on US 2 / 2.75 mm needles after light blocking.
• Bunny finished size: about 15 inches tall including hat, about 4 inches across the widest point of the skirt.
• Frog finished size: about 3 inches tall.
• Tulips: about 2 1/4 inches tall each.
• Bag: about 3 1/2 inches long before stretching.

If your fabric looks loose, move down a needle size. A toy should be knit firmly so the stuffing does not show through.

Abbreviations

• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• m1 = make 1 increase
• p = purl
• psso = pass slipped stitch over
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• st st = stockinette stitch
• WS = wrong side
• yo = yarn over

General Notes Before You Begin

The bunny in the image has a smooth, fine-gauge knitted texture. Keep your tension even and slightly firm. Use small amounts of stuffing at a time. Shape the head carefully so the face remains broad and soft rather than overstuffed and round like a ball.

The arms and legs are slim tubes, but because the project is written flat, they are created as shaped rectangles and seamed. The seams should sit along the inner side of the limb whenever possible.

The skirt is made separately and sewn on. The tulip motifs are worked as simple intarsia-like color blocks directly into the skirt panel so the final look matches the picture more closely than surface embroidery alone.

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Bunny Head and Body

The head and body are worked as one flat piece from the top of the head down to the lower torso. Make two identical pieces in yarn A.

1. CO 24 sts.
2. Rows 1-6: Begin with a WS row and work 6 rows in st st.
3. Row 7 (RS): k1, m1, k10, m1, k2, m1, k10, m1, k1. 28 sts.
4. Row 8: p all sts.
5. Row 9: k1, m1, k12, m1, k2, m1, k12, m1, k1. 32 sts.
6. Row 10: p all sts.
7. Rows 11-24: Work 14 rows in st st.
8. Row 25 (RS): k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k2, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 28 sts.
9. Row 26: p all sts.
10. Row 27: k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k2, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. 24 sts.
11. Row 28: p all sts.
12. Rows 29-34: Work 6 rows in st st. This completes the head depth and begins the neck.
13. Row 35 (RS): k5, k2tog, k10, ssk, k5. 22 sts.
14. Row 36: p all sts.
15. Rows 37-46: Work 10 rows in st st for the neck and upper torso.
16. Row 47 (RS): k2, m1, k18, m1, k2. 24 sts.
17. Row 48: p all sts.
18. Row 49: k2, m1, k20, m1, k2. 26 sts.
19. Row 50: p all sts.
20. Rows 51-70: Work 20 rows in st st for torso.
21. Row 71 (RS): k2, ssk, k18, k2tog, k2. 24 sts.
22. Row 72: p all sts.
23. Rows 73-80: Work 8 rows in st st.
24. BO loosely knitwise on RS.

Make the second piece the same way.

Bunny Ears

Make 2 in yarn A. Each ear is long, narrow, and gently rounded at the tip. The ears should reach from the top side of the head to about the collar when they hang naturally.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): p all sts.
3. Row 2: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Rows 4-18: Work 15 rows in st st.
6. Row 19 (RS): k1, m1, k8, m1, k1. 12 sts.
7. Row 20: p all sts.
8. Rows 21-34: Work 14 rows in st st.
9. Row 35 (RS): k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
10. Row 36: p all sts.
11. Row 37: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
12. Row 38: p all sts.
13. Row 39: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
14. Row 40: p all sts.
15. Row 41: k1, sl1, k1, psso, sl1, k1, psso, k1. 4 sts.
16. Row 42: p all sts.
17. Row 43: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
18. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, and pull tight.

Fold each ear lengthwise very lightly and seam the sides. Do not stuff. Steam only lightly so the ears stay soft and floppy.

Bunny Arms

Make 1 arm in yarn A and 1 arm in yarn B so the final bunny matches the image. Make 2 total, one of each color.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-18: Work 18 rows in st st.
3. Row 19 (RS): k1, m1, k6, m1, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 20: p all sts.
5. Rows 21-28: Work 8 rows in st st.
6. Row 29 (RS): k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
7. Row 30: p all sts.
8. Rows 31-34: Work 4 rows in st st.
9. BO.

Seam each arm along the long edge. Stuff very lightly only in the upper two-thirds. Keep the wrist and hand area nearly flat. The lower end should look narrow and delicate.

Bunny Legs

The legs are made in three color sections to match the photo: cream leg, dark green shoe, and a narrow pale green upper edging where the shoe meets the ankle. Make 2.

1. Using yarn C, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: Work 4 rows in st st.
3. Row 5 (RS): k all sts.
4. Row 6: p all sts.
5. Change to yarn B.
6. Rows 7-8: Work 2 rows in st st.
7. Change to yarn A.
8. Rows 9-34: Work 26 rows in st st.
9. Row 35 (RS): k1, m1, k8, m1, k1. 12 sts.
10. Row 36: p all sts.
11. Rows 37-40: Work 4 rows in st st.
12. BO.

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For each leg, fold and seam. Stuff the shoe section firmly and the leg section more lightly. Flatten the top edge so it can be sewn neatly into the base of the torso.

Mary Jane Shoe Straps

Make 2 in yarn C.

1. CO 7 sts.
2. Rows 1-2: k all sts in garter stitch.
3. BO.

Sew one strap across the front upper section of each shoe. Add one tiny embroidered French knot or one very small button at the outer side of each strap if desired.

Peter Pan Collar

Make 2 identical collar halves in yarn A.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): p all sts.
3. Row 2 (RS): k all sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1. 8 sts.
6. Row 5: p all sts.
7. Row 6: k all sts.
8. Row 7: p all sts.
9. Row 8: k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1. 6 sts.
10. Row 9: p all sts.
11. Row 10: k all sts.
12. BO.

Lightly steam. These pieces should curve softly, not sit stiffly.

Tulip Skirt

The skirt is a separate rectangular panel in yarn B with three tulip motifs near the lower half. The image shows a green skirt with tulips spaced across the front: pink, pink, and yellow blooms with dark green leaves and stems. Work one panel flat, then seam the short edges and gather the top.

Use small bobbins for color sections if you like. Carry yarns neatly on the WS. Because the motif is decorative, exact float neatness is less important than keeping the front smooth.

1. Using yarn B, CO 44 sts.
2. Rows 1-6: Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
3. Rows 7-10: Work 4 rows in st st.
4. Row 11 (RS): k all sts.
5. Row 12: p all sts.
6. Row 13: k all sts.
7. Row 14: p all sts.
8. Row 15: Begin tulip section.

Tulip placement from left to right on RS rows: 4 background sts, first tulip over 10 sts, 3 background sts, second tulip over 10 sts, 3 background sts, third tulip over 10 sts, 4 background sts.

Motif Rows 15-30:

• Row 15 RS: Using yarn B knit 7, using yarn G knit 1, B knit 5, G knit 1, B knit 5, G knit 1, B knit 7, G knit 1, B knit 5, G knit 1, B knit 5, G knit 1, B knit 7. Total 44 sts.
• Row 16 WS: Purl all sts, keeping colors as established.
• Row 17 RS: B k6, G k3, B k4, G k3, B k4, G k3, B k6, G k3, B k4, G k3, B k4, G k3, B k6.
• Row 18 WS: Purl in pattern.
• Row 19 RS: B k5, G k2, D k3, G k2, B k3, G k2, D k3, G k2, B k3, G k2, E k3, G k2, B k5.
• Row 20 WS: Purl in pattern.
• Row 21 RS: B k5, G k1, D k5, G k1, B k3, G k1, D k5, G k1, B k3, G k1, E k5, G k1, B k5.
• Row 22 WS: Purl in pattern.
• Row 23 RS: B k4, D k1, G k1, D k3, G k1, D k1, B k3, D k1, G k1, D k3, G k1, D k1, B k3, E k1, G k1, E k3, G k1, E k1, B k4.
• Row 24 WS: Purl in pattern.
• Row 25 RS: B k4, D k2, D k3, D k2, B k3, D k2, D k3, D k2, B k3, E k2, E k3, E k2, B k4.
• Row 26 WS: Purl all sts, keeping color blocks.
• Row 27 RS: B k5, D k5, B k5, D k5, B k5, E k5, B k5.
• Row 28 WS: Purl in pattern.
• Row 29 RS: B k6, D k3, B k7, D k3, B k7, E k3, B k6.
• Row 30 WS: Purl all sts.

After Row 30, continue the skirt body:

1. Rows 31-42: Work 12 rows in yarn B st st.
2. Row 43 (RS): k2tog across. 22 sts.
3. Row 44: p all sts.
4. Rows 45-48: Work 4 rows in st st.
5. BO loosely.

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Seam the short edges of the skirt. Run a gathering thread through the top edge and draw it in until it fits the bunny waist. The skirt should sit just below the collar line and flare naturally.

Spring Cloche Hat

The hat in the photo sits low over the head with a softly rounded crown and a short rolled brim. Make one in yarn B.

1. CO 46 sts.
2. Rows 1-6: k all sts for garter brim.
3. Row 7 (RS): k all sts.
4. Row 8: p all sts.
5. Rows 9-20: Work 12 rows in st st.
6. Row 21 (RS): k5, k2tog, rep to end. 40 sts.
7. Row 22: p all sts.
8. Row 23: k4, k2tog, rep to end. 33 sts.
9. Row 24: p all sts.
10. Row 25: k1, k2tog across to last 2 sts, k2. 18 sts.
11. Row 26: p all sts.
12. Row 27: k2tog across. 9 sts.
13. Cut yarn and pull through remaining sts.

Seam the back. The brim should gently curve downward. If it flares too much, sew the lower side edges to the head with two discreet stitches.

Hand Tulips

Make 3 tulips. The picture shows two red blooms and one yellow bloom, all attached as a small bunch carried in the mesh bag.

Tulip Bloom

Make 2 red and 1 yellow. Use yarn F for the red blooms and yarn E for the yellow bloom.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1-6: Work 6 rows in st st.
3. Row 7 (RS): k2tog across. 6 sts.
4. Row 8: p all sts.
5. Cut yarn long, thread through remaining sts, and pull tight to form a cup.

Sew side seam. Add a tiny bit of stuffing only at the lower half so the tulip stays plump.

Tulip Stem and Leaf

Make 3 in yarn G.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Rows 1-12: k all sts.
3. For leaf extension on next row: k1, m1, k1, m1, k1. 5 sts.
4. Next row: k all sts.
5. Next row: k1, m1, k3, m1, k1. 7 sts.
6. Next row: k all sts.
7. Next row: k2tog, k3, ssk. 5 sts.
8. Next row: k all sts.
9. Next row: k2tog, k1, ssk. 3 sts.
10. BO.

Wrap the bottom of each bloom around the top of one stem and sew firmly. Shape the leaf to one side. Gather the three stems together and tack them loosely so they form a bouquet.

Mesh Market Bag

This bag is knitted as an open lattice panel and then folded. Use yarn J. Because open mesh can vary by tension, count carefully and block after knitting.

1. CO 28 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): k all sts.
3. Row 2 (RS): k2, yo, k2tog, rep to last 2 sts, k2.
4. Row 3: k all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, yo, k2tog, rep to last 1 st, k1.
6. Rep Rows 1-4 six more times. You will have 28 total rows.
7. Rows 29-32: k all sts for top band.
8. BO.

Fold in half and seam the sides. For the handle, CO 60 sts and BO knitwise on the next row, or create an I-cord if you prefer. Sew the handle securely to each side of the top band. Stretch the bag lightly when blocking so the mesh opens.

Frog Friend

The frog is small, slim, and slightly upright. Its head is broad with protruding eyes, and the body is tiny beneath mustard overalls. Make 2 body pieces in yarn H.

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Frog Body Front and Back

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: Work 4 rows in st st.
3. Row 5 (RS): k1, m1, k10, m1, k1. 14 sts.
4. Row 6: p all sts.
5. Rows 7-12: Work 6 rows in st st.
6. Row 13 (RS): k2, m1, k10, m1, k2. 16 sts.
7. Row 14: p all sts.
8. Rows 15-20: Work 6 rows in st st.
9. Row 21 (RS): k2, ssk, k8, k2tog, k2. 14 sts.
10. Row 22: p all sts.
11. Row 23: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
12. Row 24: p all sts.
13. Rows 25-28: Work 4 rows in st st.
14. BO.

Frog Arms

Make 2 in yarn H.

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Rows 1-10: Work 10 rows in st st.
3. BO.

Frog Legs

Make 2 in yarn H.

1. CO 5 sts.
2. Rows 1-8: Work 8 rows in st st.
3. BO.

Frog Eyes

Make 2 tiny eye knobs in yarn H.

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Rows 1-3: Work 3 rows in st st.
3. Thread yarn through live sts and pull into a tiny nub.

Frog Overalls

Make one lower bib piece in yarn I.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1-8: Work 8 rows in st st.
3. Row 9 (RS): BO 3, k6, BO 3. 6 sts remain.
4. Rows 10-16: Work 7 rows on center 6 sts for bib.
5. BO.

For straps, make 2:

1. CO 18 sts.
2. BO knitwise on next row.

Pinwheel

The pinwheel is tiny and simple. It should look decorative rather than fully realistic. Make 4 blades, one each in yarn K colors if desired.

1. For each blade, CO 4 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: kfb, k2, kfb. 6 sts.
4. Row 3: k all sts.
5. Row 4: k2tog, k2, ssk. 4 sts.
6. BO.

Sew the four blades together at their narrow ends into a pinwheel shape. Embroider a small center knot. For the stick, CO 12 sts in green or tan and BO next row, then sew as a stiff stem.

Making Up the Bunny

Seam the head and body pieces together, leaving the lower edge open. Stuff the head first. Shape it with your fingers so it becomes softly oval, not spherical. Add slightly more stuffing to the cheeks than the top of the head to keep the face broad.

Stuff the neck only lightly so it stays graceful. Stuff the torso enough to hold shape but not so firmly that it becomes hard. Close the lower edge after inserting the tops of the legs.

Attach the legs side by side at the bottom of the torso. Angle them slightly forward so they dangle naturally when seated. Sew the arms at shoulder level just below the neck narrowing. The cream arm should sit on the bunny’s left side when facing forward, and the pale green arm on the bunny’s right side.

Sew the ears to the upper side areas of the head, not directly on top. Let them drop along the sides of the face. The hat will cover the upper ear join, which helps the finish look neat and closer to the image.

Sew the two collar halves around the neckline with a small gap at center front. Add the skirt around the waist below the collar line. The gathered upper edge should be hidden under the lower edge of the collar and the upper torso.

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Sew the shoe straps across the front of the shoes. Place the mesh bag over the bunny’s cream arm and hand. Tack the tulip bouquet into the bag and also lightly into the hand so it stays positioned as shown.

Making Up the Frog

Seam the frog body pieces, leaving a small opening. Stuff lightly. The frog should remain soft and slightly flat rather than round. Attach the arms low and outward, and attach the legs close together so the frog stands compactly.

Sew the eye knobs to the top corners of the head. Embroider tiny black eye dots on the front of the knobs. Add a simple straight embroidered mouth with a very slight downward curve, matching the calm expression in the image.

Wrap the overalls piece around the lower body and sew at the back. Position the bib at center front. Attach the two narrow straps over the shoulders to the back waistline. Sew the pinwheel into one frog hand.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Bunny face: Use black embroidery floss for two small vertical oval eyes placed wide apart, about 8 rows down from the top head shaping. Embroider a centered nose and mouth in a soft Y shape using brownish cream or medium taupe thread. Keep the expression minimal and calm.

Cheek shaping: Use matching sewing thread and make one tiny sculpting stitch from the side of the head into the eye area if needed. Pull very gently so the face gains a soft rounded muzzle without deep dimples.

Hat placement: Pull the hat low so it nearly touches the eye line at the sides but sits a little higher at center front. This gives the bunny the same gentle garden look as the image.

Helpful Tips for Accuracy

• Keep the head larger than the torso. That oversized proportion is part of the design charm.
• Do not overstuff the ears, arms, or skirt area.
• The skirt should flare, but only modestly. Too much fullness will hide the straight body silhouette.
• The tulip motifs should sit low on the skirt, not centered vertically.
• The frog should be tiny compared with the bunny. Resist making it too large.
• The bag should remain loose and openwork, not dense.
• The bouquet should lean outward from the bag and hand, not stand straight up.

Care Notes

Display the finished set indoors and away from direct sunlight to reduce fading. Spot clean whenever possible. If the pieces are intended for decor rather than rough play, they will keep their shape much longer.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both ears attached evenly and hanging at matching heights.
• Collar centered with a neat front opening.
• Skirt gathered evenly with tulips facing front.
• One cream arm and one pale green arm in the correct positions.
• Shoe straps attached securely.
• Hat pulled low and sewn invisibly in place if needed.
• Frog overalls centered with straps attached.
• Bag, tulips, and pinwheel firmly tacked for display.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Dust gently with a clean dry makeup brush or soft cloth. For small marks, use a barely damp cloth with a little mild soap and blot instead of rubbing. Never soak stuffed knitted toys unless absolutely necessary.

If deeper cleaning is required, remove surface accessories first if they are detachable. Hand wash very gently in cool water, press in a towel, reshape carefully, and air dry flat away from heat. Do not hang while wet.

To preserve the face and shaping, avoid pressing the stuffed areas under heavy objects. Store in acid-free tissue in a breathable box. Cedar or lavender nearby may help discourage pests, but do not let oils touch the yarn directly.

When gifting or selling, include a note that the item contains small sewn details and is best suited for gentle handling. With proper care, the bunny, frog, tulips, and accessories should remain lovely for many spring seasons.