Knitting Tutorial: White Magnolia Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This elegant bunny doll is designed to look like a collectible handmade soft toy with a classic navy-and-cream winter outfit, tiny shoes, a beret, and charming storybook accessories. If you enjoy knitting heirloom toys, woodland animals, nursery decor, handmade gifts, artisan dolls, or boutique stuffed animal patterns, this project is a lovely choice. The finished set has the feel of a premium knit toy you might search for in handmade toy shops, gift guides, or collectible bunny doll listings, yet it can be made at home with careful shaping and neat finishing.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern recreates the full knitted scene shown in the image: the white bunny, navy coat-dress with cream snowflake motifs, navy beret, cream legs, floppy ears, navy-and-cream Mary Jane shoes, a small taupe satchel, a magnifying glass, and a tiny mouse holding a pocket watch.

The construction is done in separate pieces, then assembled with careful positioning so the bunny sits correctly with long dangling legs and a soft, balanced body. The coat is worked as a real garment rather than embroidered onto the body, because that gives the same layered look visible in the photo.

The style is clean, tailored, and slightly vintage. Keep your knitting firm and even. Light stuffing, careful seaming, and accurate embroidery matter just as much as stitch counts in a toy like this.

Materials

• Main bunny color: cream or soft white DK yarn, about 70 g
• Coat, beret, and shoes: deep navy DK yarn, about 70 g
• Pattern color: cream DK yarn for stranded motifs, about 20 g
• Mouse color: pale taupe or oatmeal DK yarn, about 20 g
• Satchel handle accent: brown DK yarn, small amount
• Pocket watch accent: mustard, gold, or antique yellow DK yarn, small amount
• Watch face: cream or white yarn, very small amount
• Optional stem color for clock hands: dark brown or black embroidery thread
• Needles: 2.75 mm and 3 mm double-pointed needles, or magic loop circulars
• Optional straight needles: 3 mm for flat pieces
• Toy stuffing: polyester fiberfill
• Black embroidery thread: for eyes, nose, mouth, and watch details
• Tapestry needle
• Small piece of sturdy cardboard or plastic canvas: optional inside satchel base
• Thin craft wire: optional for magnifying glass handle, if extra stability is wanted

Finished Size

• Bunny: about 11 to 12 inches tall seated, about 15 inches from top of beret to bottom of feet if measured with legs extended
• Mouse: about 3 inches tall
• Satchel: about 2 inches wide
• Magnifying glass: about 2 inches long

Gauge

28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on 3 mm needles using DK yarn.

Gauge is important here because the proportions of the head, body, coat, and accessories need to stay close to the picture. Knit tightly enough that stuffing does not show through.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• M1 = make 1 stitch
• rep = repeat
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• st st = stockinette stitch

Notes Before You Begin

The bunny in the photo has a rounded but not oversized head, a slim upper body, softly widened lower body, very long dangling legs, narrow arms, and long ears attached low on the sides of the head. The coat flares gently outward and ends around the knee area.

The face is simple. The eyes are tiny black embroidered dots placed wide apart. The nose is a very small V-shape or satin-stitched triangle. The mouth is a short centered line that splits below the nose. Avoid making the face too bold.

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Stuff firmly in the head, lightly in the body, lightly to medium in the arms, and medium in the feet. The legs should remain soft enough to bend naturally over an edge, just like the image.

Bunny Legs (make 2)

Work from the sole upward. Shoes are knit into the legs so the proportions match the picture.

Sole and Foot

1. Using navy, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: purl.
3. Row 2: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: purl.
5. Row 4: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 9: work 5 rows in st st, starting with a purl row.
7. Change to cream.
8. Row 10: knit.
9. Row 11: purl.
10. Row 12: k4, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2. 10 sts.
11. Row 13: purl.
12. Row 14: k3, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1. 8 sts.

The foot should now look rounded at the toe and slightly flatter at the heel. Fold the cast-on edge inward later to help shape the sole.

Leg

1. Continue in cream.
2. Work 22 rows in st st on 8 sts.
3. Increase row: k1, M1, k6, M1, k1. 10 sts.
4. Work 8 rows in st st.
5. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Make the second leg exactly the same. Stuff only the foot at first. Leave the upper leg mostly unstuffed until final assembly. This gives the relaxed hanging shape seen in the image.

Bunny Body

The body is knit from the bottom up. It is slightly pear-shaped with a rounded lower section and narrower upper torso. The body must be small enough to let the coat sit neatly without bulk.

1. Using cream, CO 12 sts. Divide for working in the round, 4 sts on each needle.
2. Rnd 1: knit.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st. 24 sts.
4. Rnd 3: knit.
5. Rnd 4: k1, kfb, rep around. 36 sts.
6. Rnds 5 to 11: knit 7 rnds.
7. Rnd 12: k5, k2tog, rep around. 30 sts.
8. Rnds 13 to 18: knit 6 rnds.
9. Rnd 19: k4, k2tog, rep around. 25 sts.
10. Rnds 20 to 24: knit 5 rnds.
11. Rnd 25: k3, k2tog, rep around to last 5 sts, k5. 21 sts.
12. Rnd 26: knit.
13. Rnd 27: k2, k2tog, rep around to last 3 sts, k3. 16 sts.
14. Rnds 28 to 31: knit 4 rnds.

Stuff the lower body lightly but shape it with your fingers so the base is rounded and the upper body remains slim.

1. Neck shaping rnd: k2tog around. 8 sts.
2. Work 2 rnds on 8 sts for the neck.

Break yarn. Leave live stitches for joining to the head, or place them on waste yarn if you prefer to sew later.

Bunny Head

The head is larger than the body, but still graceful and not oversized. It is knit from the top down or bottom up; here it is worked from the snout area upward for easier facial placement and lower head shaping.

1. Using cream, CO 8 sts. Divide for working in the round.
2. Rnd 1: knit.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: knit.
5. Rnd 4: k1, kfb, rep around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 5: knit.
7. Rnd 6: k2, kfb, rep around. 32 sts.
8. Rnd 7: knit.
9. Rnd 8: k3, kfb, rep around. 40 sts.
10. Rnds 9 to 18: knit 10 rnds.

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Place markers for the face now. The front center is where the cast-on start sits. The eyes will be embroidered later between rnds 10 and 12, about 6 stitches apart.

1. Rnd 19: k3, k2tog, rep around. 32 sts.
2. Rnd 20: knit.
3. Rnd 21: k2, k2tog, rep around. 24 sts.

Stuff the head firmly, adding a little extra at the cheeks for the rounded face shown in the image.

1. Rnd 22: k1, k2tog, rep around. 16 sts.
2. Rnd 23: knit.
3. Rnd 24: k2tog around. 8 sts.
4. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull closed.

If you kept the body neck stitches live, join the head to the neck opening before fully closing the lower part. Otherwise sew the head to the body carefully, keeping the face centered.

Bunny Ears (make 2)

The ears are long, narrow, and softly drooping. They are not stiff and should hang down from a low side attachment point. Knit them flat, then seam lightly.

1. Using cream, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 and 2: work in st st.
3. Row 3: k1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1. 10 sts.
4. Rows 4 to 18: continue in st st for 15 rows, starting with a purl row.
5. Row 19: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
6. Rows 20 to 28: continue in st st for 9 rows.
7. Row 29: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
8. Row 30: purl.
9. Row 31: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
10. Row 32: purl.
11. Row 33: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
12. Row 34: p2tog. 1 st.
13. Fasten off.

Fold each ear lengthwise very lightly and seam only enough to give a soft edge. Do not stuff. Attach one ear to each side of the head slightly below the crown line and close to the side seams, allowing them to fall straight down.

Bunny Arms (make 2)

The arms are slim tubes with soft hands. They should reach down to about the waist of the coat when attached.

1. Using cream, CO 6 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1 to 4: knit.
3. Rnd 5: kfb, k2, kfb, k2. 8 sts.
4. Rnds 6 to 22: knit 17 rnds.
5. Rnd 23: k2tog, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
6. Rnd 24: knit.
7. Lightly stuff the lower half only.
8. Flatten top and graft or sew closed.

Tail

1. Using cream, CO 6 sts in the round.
2. Rnd 1: kfb in every st. 12 sts.
3. Rnds 2 and 3: knit.
4. Rnd 4: k2tog around. 6 sts.
5. Stuff lightly.
6. Thread yarn through stitches and pull closed.

Sew the tail to the lower back of the body, centered, but keep it small and neat so it does not distort the coat.

Coat-Dress

This is the most important garment in the set. It is a fitted top with front opening, long sleeves, stranded snowflake motifs, a belt, and a gently flared skirt. It is worked flat from the lower hem upward so the motif can be placed neatly around the skirt.

The coat should sit close to the bunny, with the front edges nearly meeting but still showing a slight opening. The sleeves are narrow. The skirt flares enough to drape over the seated legs.

Back and Skirt Section

1. Using navy and 3 mm needles, CO 54 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib across all rows as established.
3. Rows 5 to 12: begin st st, with RS rows knit and WS rows purl.

Now work the lower motif band. Use cream as contrast color. Do not pull floats tightly. Keep the fabric flat.

1. Row 13 RS: k6 navy, k2 cream, k2 navy, k2 cream, k2 navy, k4 cream, k2 navy, k2 cream, k2 navy, k2 cream, k6 navy, then mirror this arrangement to end. This row begins the visual spread of the snowflake band.
2. Row 14 WS: purl all stitches in colors as they appear.
3. Rows 15 to 20: continue a centered snowflake motif pattern over the middle 42 sts, keeping 6 edge sts at each side in navy.

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For clarity, use this 6-row snowflake repeat across the center portion. Work from right side rows as written, and purl in color on wrong side rows.

• Motif row A: navy 2, cream 2, navy 2, cream 6, navy 2, cream 2, navy 2
• Motif row B: navy 1, cream 1, navy 1, cream 2, navy 2, cream 2, navy 1, cream 1, navy 1
• Motif row C: cream 1, navy 1, cream 1, navy 2, cream 2, navy 2, cream 1, navy 1, cream 1
• Motif row D: navy 1, cream 1, navy 1, cream 2, navy 2, cream 2, navy 1, cream 1, navy 1
• Motif row E: navy 2, cream 2, navy 2, cream 6, navy 2, cream 2, navy 2
• Motif row F: all navy

Repeat this centered arrangement so the skirt has a broad cream snowflake feeling rather than tiny scattered dots. The image shows a traditional Nordic-style border, so visual balance matters more than tiny mathematical perfection.

1. Rows 21 to 28: work in navy st st.
2. Row 29 RS decrease: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 52 sts.
3. Row 30 WS: purl.
4. Repeat these decrease rows every 6th row 4 more times. 44 sts.
5. Work 8 rows even.

Divide for Fronts and Armholes

1. Next row RS: k10 for left front, BO 4 sts, k16 for back, BO 4 sts, k10 for right front.

Work each section separately.

Left Front

1. Work 2 rows even.
2. Neck shaping row RS: k8, k2tog. 9 sts.
3. WS row: purl.
4. RS row: knit.
5. Neck shaping row RS: k7, k2tog. 8 sts.
6. Continue until armhole measures 12 rows from division.
7. Shoulder row: BO 4 sts, knit to end.
8. Next row: BO remaining 4 sts.

Right Front

1. With RS facing, join yarn and work to match left front.
2. Neck shaping row RS: ssk, knit to end.
3. Repeat shaping symmetrically.

Back

1. Work 10 rows even on 16 sts.
2. Next RS row: BO 4 sts, knit 8, BO 4 sts.
3. Next row: work across 8 center sts.
4. BO all sts.

Sleeves (make 2)

The sleeves are narrow and finish just above the bunny hands. They have a small motif near the wrist and slight fullness at the top.

1. Using navy, CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib.
3. Rows 5 to 8: st st.
4. Rows 9 to 12: add a tiny cream motif centered over 8 sts using alternating cream diamonds, for example:
   • RS row 1: k4 navy, k2 cream, k2 navy, k2 cream, k6 navy
   • RS row 2 of motif: k5 navy, k1 cream, k4 navy, k1 cream, k5 navy
   • RS row 3 of motif: same as row 1
   • RS row 4 of motif: all navy
5. Continue in navy st st.
6. Increase row RS: k1, M1, knit to last 1 st, M1, k1. 18 sts.
7. Work 6 rows even.
8. Increase row again the same way. 20 sts.
9. Work 6 rows even.
10. Cap shaping:
    • BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 16 sts.
    • Then decrease 1 st at each end of next 4 RS rows. 8 sts.
    • Work 1 WS row.
    • BO all sts.

Snowflake Yoke Decoration

The image shows a small cream motif on the upper chest. This can be knitted in duplicate stitch after assembly for better control. Make one 6-stitch wide snowflake-like motif on each front panel above the waist line.

Use this simple duplicate stitch chart across 6 stitches and 5 rows:

• Row 1: cream on sts 3 and 4
• Row 2: cream on sts 2, 3, 4, 5
• Row 3: cream on all 6 sts
• Row 4: cream on sts 2, 3, 4, 5
• Row 5: cream on sts 3 and 4

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Belt

1. Using navy, CO 36 sts.
2. Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
3. BO knitwise.

Wrap around the waist and sew in place lightly. Make a tiny buckle with a few embroidered stitches or a narrow knit loop made from 4 stitches over 3 rows.

Collar and Finishing

1. Sew shoulder seams.
2. Pick up about 34 sts evenly around the full neckline and front edges to chest level.
3. Work 2 rows in garter stitch.
4. BO loosely.

Sew in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams. Dress the bunny and close the coat with two hidden stitches at the waist if needed, keeping the slight opening visible below the collar.

Beret

The beret is soft, rounded, and slightly slouched to one side. It should sit low on the head and cover the crown while still showing both ears hanging down.

1. Using navy, CO 48 sts in the round.
2. Rnds 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib.
3. Rnd 5: kfb every 4th st around. 60 sts.
4. Rnds 6 to 14: knit 9 rnds.
5. Rnd 15: k8, k2tog, rep around. 54 sts.
6. Rnd 16: knit.
7. Rnd 17: k7, k2tog, rep around. 48 sts.
8. Rnd 18: knit.
9. Rnd 19: k6, k2tog, rep around. 42 sts.
10. Rnd 20: knit.
11. Rnd 21: k5, k2tog, rep around. 36 sts.
12. Rnd 22: knit.
13. Rnd 23: k4, k2tog, rep around. 30 sts.
14. Rnd 24: k3, k2tog, rep around. 24 sts.
15. Rnd 25: k2, k2tog, rep around. 18 sts.
16. Rnd 26: k1, k2tog, rep around. 12 sts.
17. Rnd 27: k2tog around. 6 sts.
18. Fasten off and gather.

Shape with your fingers so one side looks slightly fuller. Sew lightly to the head if you want the beret fixed in place.

Mary Jane Shoe Straps

The image shows a clear strap detail across the front of each shoe. Add this after the legs are attached.

1. Using navy, thread yarn through one side of the shoe opening.
2. Work 4 chain-like embroidery stitches or a knitted cord of 4 stitches for 4 rows.
3. Attach to opposite side.

Keep the strap high enough to show the cream instep clearly.

Satchel

The satchel is a small taupe knitted bag with a rounded flap and darker handle. It sits beside the bunny and should not be oversized.

Bag Body

1. Using taupe, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 16: work in st st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Fold piece so rows 1 to 6 form back, rows 7 to 10 form base, and rows 11 to 16 form front flap.

Flap Shaping

1. Row 17 RS: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
2. Row 18: purl.
3. Row 19: repeat decrease row. 10 sts.
4. Row 20: purl.
5. Row 21: repeat decrease row. 8 sts.
6. Row 22: purl.
7. BO.

Side Gussets (make 2)

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Work 10 rows in st st.
3. BO.

Handle

1. Using brown, CO 3 sts.
2. Knit i-cord for 12 rows.
3. BO.

Sew gussets between front and back sections. Add a tiny piece of cardboard inside if you want structure. Sew handle to upper sides. Position satchel beside the bunny as in the image.

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Magnifying Glass

This accessory is small but important for the exact look. The handle is brown, and the ring is light gray or pale silver. The center is open, or you may use a tiny sheer bead or clear plastic circle if desired.

Handle

1. Using brown, CO 3 sts.
2. Knit i-cord for 8 rows.
3. BO.

Ring

1. Using pale gray, CO 12 sts and join in the round carefully.
2. Knit 3 rnds.
3. BO.

Flatten the ring slightly into a round frame. Sew one side of the ring to the top of the handle. If needed, insert thin wire into the handle before closing. Tuck the accessory into the bunny’s left side near the satchel.

Mouse Body

The mouse is tiny, upright, and softly pear-shaped, with small ears, short arms hugging the watch, and a curled tail. It should sit at the bunny’s side and reach only to about the bunny’s knee.

1. Using taupe, CO 8 sts in the round.
2. Rnd 1: kfb in every st. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 2: knit.
4. Rnd 3: k1, kfb, rep around. 24 sts.
5. Rnds 4 to 8: knit.
6. Rnd 9: k4, k2tog, rep around. 20 sts.
7. Rnds 10 to 13: knit.
8. Rnd 14: k3, k2tog, rep around. 16 sts.
9. Rnd 15: knit.
10. Rnd 16: k2, k2tog, rep around. 12 sts.

Stuff the body lightly to medium, keeping the lower part rounded.

1. Rnd 17: knit.
2. Rnd 18: k1, k2tog, rep around. 8 sts.
3. Rnd 19: knit.
4. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull closed.

Mouse Head and Snout

You may shape the top closure into the head by embroidery and needle sculpting. Add a few stitches at the nose area to create a tiny muzzle. Keep it subtle.

Mouse Ears (make 2)

1. Using taupe, CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1: purl.
3. Row 2: kfb, k4, kfb. 8 sts.
4. Rows 3 and 4: st st.
5. Row 5: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
6. Row 6: purl.
7. Row 7: k2tog, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
8. Row 8: purl.
9. Row 9: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
10. Row 10: p2tog.

Sew each ear to the head. They should be small and rounded, placed high but not wide.

Mouse Arms (make 2)

1. Using taupe, CO 5 sts.
2. Work 8 rows in st st.
3. Fasten off.

Roll each arm lightly and sew to the sides of the body, angled inward so the paws appear to hold the watch.

Mouse Tail

1. Using taupe, CO 2 sts.
2. Knit i-cord for 10 rows.
3. BO.

Curve gently and sew to the lower back.

Pocket Watch

Watch Front

1. Using mustard or antique yellow, CO 6 sts in the round.
2. Rnd 1: kfb in every st. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 2: knit.
4. Rnd 3: k1, kfb, rep around. 18 sts.
5. Rnd 4: knit.
6. BO loosely.

Watch Face

1. Using cream, CO 10 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in st st.
3. BO.

Cut the face into a small circle shape only after knitting if you are comfortable doing so, or gather the rectangle into a circle with sewing. Stitch to the center of the mustard watch ring.

Embroider tiny clock hands and small marker dots with black thread. Add a 4-stitch loop at the top in mustard to suggest the watch crown.

Sew the watch to the front of the mouse, then tack the mouse paws over its edges.

Facial Embroidery

The bunny face should remain minimal and calm.

• Eyes: use two tiny black satin stitches or French-knot style wrapped stitches between the middle rows of the head, spaced about 6 stitches apart
• Nose: embroider a very small inverted triangle or short V in cream-darkened taupe or light brown
• Mouth: make a straight vertical stitch down from the nose, then a tiny split at the bottom

The mouse face is even simpler. Add two tiny black eyes, a tiny nose, and no large smile. Keep everything understated.

Assembly Order

1. Sew head to body if not already joined.
2. Attach ears low on the sides of the bunny head.
3. Attach legs to the lower body, spaced so they hang straight and slightly apart.
4. Attach arms high on the body, angled downward.
5. Sew tail to back.
6. Dress bunny in coat.
7. Sew belt around waist.
8. Fit beret onto head.
9. Assemble satchel and magnifying glass.
10. Assemble mouse and pocket watch.
11. Place accessories and tack lightly if desired.

Positioning for the Exact Look

For the bunny to match the image, pay attention to posture. The body sits upright, but not stiff. The head is centered. The ears fall vertically. The legs extend forward from the lower body and bend softly at the attachment point so the feet point slightly outward.

The coat hem should spread into a soft bell shape while seated. Do not overstuff the hips or the coat will stick out too far. The shoes should be visible below the hem, with the cream legs clearly seen between coat and shoes.

The satchel rests beside the bunny on its left side. The magnifying glass leans diagonally upward. The mouse sits on the bunny’s right side, touching the coat hem. The watch faces forward.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the symmetry before securing everything permanently. Make sure both ears begin at the same height, the eyes are level, and the coat front opening is centered. Add tiny hidden stitches only where necessary so the toy still looks soft and natural.

Use very small embroidery for the face. Large features will change the mood completely. Brush the knitted fabric lightly with your fingers after finishing to smooth the surface and settle the stuffing.

Care Notes

• Spot clean whenever possible
• Do not wring or twist the toy
• Reshape the beret, ears, and coat after cleaning
• Keep decorative accessories away from very young children if loosely attached

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head firmly stuffed and centered
• Ears long, soft, and evenly placed
• Legs lightly stuffed and dangling naturally
• Coat motif balanced and front edges neat
• Belt centered at true waist
• Beret softly slouched, not flat
• Mouse proportionately small
• Watch and magnifying glass securely attached or positioned

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Hand wash gently in cool water with mild wool-safe soap only when needed. Rinse without soaking for too long. Press inside a towel to remove moisture, then air dry flat away from direct sun or heater air.

For long-term storage, keep the toy in a clean dry place with acid-free tissue. Do not hang it by the ears or arms. If displayed on a shelf, support the legs and accessories so the shaping remains close to the original finished look.