Knitting Tutorial: The “Cuckoo Clock” Maker Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This charming heirloom-style bunny is designed as a collectible knit toy with a country cottage look, a floral headscarf, a textured pinafore, tiny embroidered pine branches, a shoulder bird, and a sweet little cuckoo clock handbag. If you love handmade rabbit dolls, cottagecore nursery decor, whimsical knitted animals, or giftable soft sculptures for spring and Easter shopping, this design brings all of those details together in one memorable project. The finished bunny stands beautifully on display, and every small accessory helps create the warm handcrafted look that knit toy lovers often search for when browsing pattern books, artisan dolls, and boutique handmade decor.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: DK weight wool or wool-blend in warm oatmeal beige, about 70 to 90 g.
• Dress yarn: DK weight deep brown, about 35 to 45 g.
• Blouse yarn: DK weight soft cream, about 20 to 30 g.
• Bird yarn: Small amounts of medium blue, denim blue, pale gray-blue, cream, and charcoal.
• Clock bag yarn: Small amounts of brown, cream, dark brown, tan, and tiny scraps of black and white.
• Headscarf fabric effect: Use very fine yarn scraps in russet, olive, teal, brown, and gold for duplicate stitch or surface embroidery if desired, or use a sewn fabric scarf if you prefer mixed media. For a fully knitted version, the scarf instructions below are included.
• Shoes: Small amount of light beige or tan DK yarn.
• Embroidery floss: Dark brown, cream, muted green, rust, black, and soft pink.
• Needles: 2.25 mm and 2.75 mm double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain a firm toy fabric.
• Optional straight or circular needles: 2.75 mm for flat pieces.
• Toy stuffing: Firm polyester fiberfill.
• Weighted stuffing: Optional glass beads or steel granules in a fabric pouch for the lower body.
• Pipe cleaner or thin floral wire: Optional for firmer ears and bag handle support.
• Safety eyes: 6 mm black, or black embroidery knots if making for a very young child.
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers, pins, scissors, and sewing needle.

Finished Size

The finished bunny measures about 13 inches tall from the sole of the shoe to the top of the ears when worked in DK yarn on 2.75 mm needles. The body itself measures about 8 1/2 inches tall, and the ears add roughly 4 1/2 inches. The cuckoo clock bag is about 2 inches tall, and the bird is about 1 3/4 inches long.

Gauge

Gauge is not critical for display toys, but fabric density is extremely important. On 2.75 mm needles in stockinette stitch, aim for about 30 stitches and 42 rows over 4 inches. The fabric should be tight enough that stuffing does not show through.

Abbreviations

• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• dec = decrease
• dpn = double-pointed needle
• inc = increase
• k = knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• m1L = make 1 left
• m1R = make 1 right
• p = purl
• pm = place marker
• rem = remaining
• rep = repeat
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• St st = stockinette stitch
• WS = wrong side

Construction Overview

The bunny is made from separate knitted sections and then assembled very carefully to match the silhouette shown in the image. The legs are slim and straight with softly rounded feet. The torso is long and narrow with a gentle tummy shape. The arms are simple tapered tubes, and the head is slightly oval rather than perfectly round.

The ears are tall, narrow, and softly pointed. The blouse is knitted separately and sewn closed at the back. The pinafore dress is worked as a separate garment with a darker skirt section, slim bib front, and straps. The bird and cuckoo clock bag are individual mini projects. Small embroidered details complete the final look.

Bunny Legs Make 2

Foot and Lower Leg

1. Using oatmeal beige and 2.75 mm dpns, CO 10 sts.
2. Divide evenly and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.
3. Rnd 1: Knit.
4. Rnd 2: Kfb in each st around. 20 sts.
5. Rnd 3: Knit.
6. Rnd 4: K1, m1R, k8, m1L, k1, k1, m1R, k8, m1L, k1. 24 sts.
7. Rnds 5-8: Knit.
8. Rnd 9: K6, k2tog, k8, ssk, k6. 22 sts.
9. Rnd 10: Knit.
10. Rnd 11: K5, k2tog, k8, ssk, k5. 20 sts.
11. Rnd 12: Knit.
12. Rnd 13: K4, k2tog, k8, ssk, k4. 18 sts.
13. Rnd 14: Knit.
14. Rnd 15: K3, k2tog, k8, ssk, k3. 16 sts.
15. Rnds 16-26: Knit 11 rounds.
16. Stuff foot firmly, shaping the toe into a gently flattened oval.
17. Rnds 27-38: Knit 12 rounds.
18. Stuff leg lightly to medium-firm. Keep the upper 1 inch less stuffed for easier joining.
19. Break yarn on first leg and leave sts live.
20. Work second leg the same, but do not break yarn.

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Body

Join Legs

1. Place both legs side by side with toes facing forward.
2. On second leg, knit across 8 sts.
3. CO 4 sts using backward loop method.
4. Knit 16 sts from first leg.
5. CO 4 sts.
6. Knit rem 8 sts from second leg. 40 sts total.
7. Place marker for start of rnd at center back.
8. Rnd 1: Knit.
9. Rnd 2: K18, m1R, k2, m1L, k18. 42 sts.
10. Rnd 3: Knit.
11. Rnd 4: K19, m1R, k2, m1L, k19. 44 sts.
12. Rnd 5: Knit.
13. Rnd 6: K20, m1R, k2, m1L, k20. 46 sts.
14. Rnds 7-12: Knit.

Torso Shaping

1. Rnd 13: K6, k2tog, k15, ssk, k6, k2tog, k15, ssk. 42 sts.
2. Rnd 14: Knit.
3. Rnd 15: K5, k2tog, k14, ssk, k5, k2tog, k14, ssk. 38 sts.
4. Rnds 16-18: Knit.
5. Rnd 19: K4, k2tog, k13, ssk, k4, k2tog, k13, ssk. 34 sts.
6. Rnds 20-24: Knit.
7. Rnd 25: K3, m1R, k11, m1L, k3, k3, m1R, k11, m1L, k3. 38 sts.
8. Rnds 26-30: Knit.
9. Rnd 31: K3, m1R, k13, m1L, k3, k3, m1R, k13, m1L, k3. 42 sts.
10. Rnds 32-38: Knit.
11. Begin stuffing lower body firmly. Add weighted pouch at the center bottom if desired.
12. Rnd 39: K5, k2tog, k9, ssk, k5, k2tog, k9, ssk. 38 sts.
13. Rnd 40: Knit.
14. Rnd 41: K4, k2tog, k9, ssk, k4, k2tog, k9, ssk. 34 sts.
15. Rnd 42: Knit.
16. Rnd 43: K3, k2tog, k9, ssk, k3, k2tog, k9, ssk. 30 sts.
17. Rnds 44-46: Knit.
18. Stuff body firmly, shaping a narrow chest and slightly rounded tummy.

Head

1. Rnd 1: Knit, increasing evenly 6 sts across the round. 36 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Knit.
3. Rnd 3: K5, m1R, rep around. 42 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Knit.
5. Rnd 5: K6, m1R, rep around. 48 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Knit.
7. Rnd 7: K7, m1R, rep around. 54 sts.
8. Rnds 8-18: Knit 11 rounds.
9. Rnd 19: K8, k2tog, rep around. 49 sts.
10. Rnd 20: Knit.
11. Rnd 21: K5, k2tog, rep around to last 7 sts, k7. 42 sts.
12. Rnd 22: Knit.
13. Rnd 23: K4, k2tog, rep around to last 6 sts, k6. 36 sts.
14. Rnd 24: Knit.
15. Insert eyes now between rnds 11 and 12 of the head section, spaced 8 sts apart on the front.
16. Start stuffing the head very firmly.
17. Rnd 25: K4, k2tog, rep around. 30 sts.
18. Rnd 26: Knit.
19. Rnd 27: K3, k2tog, rep around. 24 sts.
20. Rnd 28: Knit.
21. Rnd 29: K2, k2tog, rep around. 18 sts.
22. Rnd 30: K1, k2tog, rep around. 12 sts.
23. Rnd 31: K2tog around. 6 sts.
24. Cut yarn, thread through rem sts, pull closed, and secure.

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Muzzle Shaping and Neck Sculpting

To achieve the exact look in the photo, the face must be gently sculpted rather than left as a plain sphere. Thread strong matching yarn on a long needle. Enter at the base of the head, bring the needle out beside one eye, pass across the front nose area, and re-enter beside the other eye. Pull very lightly. This makes the upper muzzle sit forward.

Next, make a vertical stitch from the forehead center down to the point where the nose embroidery will sit, then tighten only slightly. This creates the soft center line seen on the rabbit face. Finally, wrap a few hidden stitches around the neck base to define the head from the body without making it thin.

Arms Make 2

1. Using oatmeal beige and 2.75 mm dpns, CO 12 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-4: Knit.
3. Rnd 5: K1, k2tog, k6, ssk, k1. 10 sts.
4. Rnds 6-12: Knit.
5. Rnd 13: K1, m1R, k3, m1L, k1, k1, m1R, k3, m1L, k1. 14 sts.
6. Rnds 14-22: Knit.
7. Rnd 23: K2tog, k10, ssk. 12 sts.
8. Rnds 24-28: Knit.
9. Stuff lower half of arm only, leaving top section soft and flat.
10. Flatten top edge and use three-needle bind-off or whipstitch closed.
11. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears Make 2 Outer Ears

1. Using oatmeal beige and 2.75 mm needles, CO 8 sts flat.
2. Row 1 (RS): Knit.
3. Row 2: Purl.
4. Row 3: K1, m1L, k6, m1R, k1. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: Purl.
6. Row 5: K1, m1L, k8, m1R, k1. 12 sts.
7. Row 6: Purl.
8. Row 7: K1, m1L, k10, m1R, k1. 14 sts.
9. Row 8: Purl.
10. Rows 9-24: Work in St st.
11. Row 25: K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
12. Row 26: Purl.
13. Row 27: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
14. Row 28: Purl.
15. Row 29: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
16. Row 30: Purl.
17. Row 31: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
18. Row 32: Purl.
19. Row 33: Ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
20. Row 34: Purl.
21. Row 35: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts.
22. Row 36: P2tog. 1 st.
23. Fasten off.

Ear Linings Make 2 Inner Ears

1. Using cream or a slightly lighter beige and 2.25 mm needles, CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1-2: St st.
3. Row 3: K1, m1L, k4, m1R, k1. 8 sts.
4. Row 4: Purl.
5. Row 5: K1, m1L, k6, m1R, k1. 10 sts.
6. Rows 6-20: Work in St st.
7. Row 21: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
8. Row 22: Purl.
9. Row 23: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
10. Row 24: Purl.
11. Row 25: Ssk, k2tog. 4 sts.
12. Row 26: Purl.
13. Row 27: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts.
14. Row 28: P2tog. 1 st.
15. Fasten off.

Steam very lightly. Center each inner ear on an outer ear and sew around the edges. Leave lower edge free for joining. If you want gently poseable ears, insert a thin wrapped wire between layers before closing completely.

Simple Knitted Shoes Make 2

The shoes in the image are smooth and rounded with tiny floral decoration. They may be made from knit covers sewn over the feet.

1. Using tan yarn and 2.25 mm needles, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1-8: Work in St st.
3. Row 9: K2tog, k10, k2tog. 12 sts.
4. Row 10: Purl.
5. Row 11: K2tog, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
6. Row 12: Purl.
7. Rows 13-18: St st.
8. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

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Wrap around the front of the foot like a slipper cap. Sew under the foot and at the back. Embroider tiny scattered flowers in pink, blue, and green near the toes using duplicate stitch and straight stitches.

Blouse

Back and Front Worked Flat

1. Using cream yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 36 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: K1, p1 rib.
3. Row 5 (RS): Knit.
4. Row 6: Purl.
5. Rows 7-10: Rep rows 5-6 twice.
6. Row 11: K3, m1L, k12, m1R, k6, m1L, k12, m1R, k3. 40 sts.
7. Row 12: Purl.
8. Rows 13-20: St st.
9. Row 21: K8, BO 4, k16, BO 4, k8.
10. Row 22: Purl to gap, CO 4, p16, CO 4, purl to end. 40 sts.
11. Rows 23-28: St st.
12. Row 29: K10, BO 20, k10.
13. Row 30: P10, turn. Work left back only first.
14. Rows 31-34: St st on 10 sts.
15. BO 4 sts at neck edge once, then work 2 rows even on 6 sts. BO.
16. Return to center 20 sts for front.
17. With RS facing, join yarn and knit 20 sts.
18. Rows 31-36 front: Work St st.
19. Next row: K7, BO 6, k7.
20. Work each side separately, decreasing 1 st at neck edge on next 2 RS rows. When 5 shoulder sts remain on each side and front length matches back shoulder height, BO.
21. Work second back same as first.

Blouse Sleeves Make 2

1. Using cream yarn, CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: K1, p1 rib.
3. Row 5: Knit, increasing evenly 6 sts. 28 sts.
4. Rows 6-14: St st.
5. Row 15: K2tog, k24, k2tog. 26 sts.
6. Row 16: Purl.
7. Rows 17-19: St st.
8. BO all sts.

Sew blouse shoulder seams. Sew sleeves into armholes, easing the fullness so the sleeve forms the soft puff shown in the image. Sew side and sleeve seams. Thread a cream cord through the neckline using twisted yarn or I-cord and tie at the center front.

Pinafore Dress

Skirt

1. Using dark brown yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 60 sts. Join to work in the round.
2. Rnds 1-4: K1, p1 rib.
3. Rnds 5-28: Knit.
4. Rnd 29: K2tog around. 30 sts.
5. Rnd 30: Knit.
6. Rnd 31: K15, place these on holder for front bib section, knit rem 15 for back.
7. Work back first in rows.
8. Rows 32-42: St st on 15 sts.
9. BO all sts.

Front Bib

1. Return held 15 sts to needle.
2. Row 32 (RS): Knit.
3. Row 33: Purl.
4. Rows 34-42: St st.
5. Row 43: K4, BO 7, k4.
6. On next row, work each 4-st strap separately.
7. Work 16 rows of St st on first strap.
8. BO.
9. Rejoin yarn and work second strap same.

Sew or overlap skirt back opening neatly if you want a closed dress. The dress in the photo sits smoothly over the body and does not flare widely, so do not overstuff under the garment.

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Dress Embroidery

Using muted green and rust embroidery floss, work delicate pine branches and pinecones across the center front bib and along the lower skirt. Keep the motifs small and balanced. Each branch can be made with one stem stitch line and short angled straight stitches for needles. Pinecones may be formed with tiny overlapping V stitches in rust brown.

• Front bib motif: one curved green branch about 1 1/4 inches wide with three small pinecones.
• Skirt hem motif: one longer branch sweeping from left to right with five pinecones of varying size.
• Placement: keep embroidery low and centered, matching the image where the decoration frames the front rather than covering the whole dress.

Headscarf

The scarf in the photo looks like a soft floral kerchief tied under the chin. To keep the project fully knitted, make a thin triangular scarf and add surface color detail.

1. Using 2.25 mm needles and brown or muted olive base yarn, CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1: Knit.
3. Row 2: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb. 5 sts.
4. Row 3: Knit.
5. Row 4: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb. 7 sts.
6. Continue in this manner, increasing 1 st at each end of every RS row, and purling every WS row, until 33 sts.
7. Work 2 rows even.
8. BO loosely on RS.

With duplicate stitch and tiny embroidery, scatter narrow stripes and miniature floral dots in teal, rust, cream, and gold. Wrap around the head so the top edge frames the forehead and the pointed corners tie under the chin. Make sure the scarf sits just below the ear bases.

Little Blue Bird

Body

1. Using medium blue and 2.25 mm dpns, CO 6 sts. Join in rnd.
2. Rnd 1: Kfb in each st. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Knit.
4. Rnd 3: K1, m1R, rep around. 18 sts.
5. Rnds 4-6: Knit.
6. Rnd 7: K2tog, k5, ssk, k2tog, k5, ssk. 14 sts.
7. Rnd 8: Knit.
8. Rnd 9: K2tog, k3, ssk, k2tog, k3, ssk. 10 sts.
9. Stuff lightly.
10. Rnd 10: K2tog around. 5 sts.
11. Thread yarn through sts and close.

Head Bump and Belly Patch

Using pale gray-blue, duplicate stitch a soft belly patch under the bird. Add a tiny darker blue crown line if desired. Embroider a small black eye and a short cream beak. The bird should look rounded and simple, not sharply realistic.

Wings Make 2

1. Using darker blue, CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1: Knit.
3. Row 2: Purl.
4. Row 3: K1, m1L, k4, m1R, k1. 8 sts.
5. Row 4: Purl.
6. Row 5: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
7. Row 6: Purl.
8. Row 7: Ssk, k2tog. 4 sts.
9. Fasten off.

Sew wings to each side. Make a tiny tail with three straight stitches or a knitted i-cord nub. Stitch bird onto bunny’s left shoulder so it sits slightly behind the neck and faces outward.

Cuckoo Clock Bag

Front Panel

1. Using brown yarn and 2.25 mm needles, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1-14: Work in St st.
3. Row 15: K2tog, k10, k2tog. 12 sts.
4. Row 16: Purl.
5. Row 17: K2tog, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
6. Row 18: Purl.
7. Row 19: K2tog, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
8. Row 20: Purl.
9. Row 21: K2tog, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
10. Row 22: Purl.
11. Row 23: K2tog, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
12. Row 24: Purl.
13. Row 25: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
14. Row 26: P2tog. 1 st.
15. Fasten off.

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Back Panel

Work the same as front panel.

Roof Make 2

1. Using dark brown, CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1-8: St st.
3. BO.

Side Gusset

1. Using brown, CO 4 sts.
2. Rows 1-30: Knit every row for a firm garter strip.
3. BO.

Clock Face Circle

1. Using cream yarn and 2.25 mm dpns, CO 6 sts, join.
2. Rnd 1: Kfb in each st. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Knit.
4. Rnd 3: K1, m1R, rep around. 18 sts.
5. Rnd 4: Knit.
6. BO loosely.

Sew front and back panels to side gusset, leaving top edge open. Add a little stuffing or a cardboard insert if you want the bag to hold its shape. Sew one roof rectangle to each roof side so they angle outward like a tiny cuckoo clock top. Sew the cream clock face to the front center.

Use black embroidery to add simple clock hands and tiny hour marks. Add cream and tan stitched trim on the lower front to suggest timber frame detail. Make two tiny dangling weights from short brown cords with knot ends, plus one center pendulum cord. For the handle, make an i-cord about 10 inches long and sew securely to both upper sides. The bag should hang to the bunny’s left side just below the hand.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the ears to the top sides of the head, leaving a narrow gap between them. Angle them slightly outward, not straight up and not floppy. Sew the arms to the upper torso so the hands rest near the dress sides. Add the blouse first, then the pinafore, then the scarf. Embroider the nose with dark brown satin stitches forming a tiny upside-down triangle and add a short vertical line below it. A very small soft pink blush at the cheeks may be added with pastel or embroidery.

Care Notes

Display the bunny indoors and keep it away from prolonged direct sunlight to protect the yarn and embroidery colors. If gifting to a child, replace all hard components with embroidery and make sure every accessory is sewn on very securely. This design is best suited for gentle decorative use.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head firmly stuffed and softly sculpted.
• Ears matched in height and angle.
• Blouse neckline tied at center front.
• Dress embroidery balanced and centered.
• Bird sewn firmly to shoulder.
• Cuckoo clock bag hanging neatly at one side.
• Nose and mouth embroidered symmetrically.
• Shoes attached smoothly over the feet.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean only with a lightly damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap. Do not machine wash, soak, or tumble dry. Reshape gently after cleaning and air dry flat. Store in acid-free tissue or a cotton bag in a dry place. For long-term display, dust lightly with a soft brush and check embroidery and accessory stitching from time to time.