Knitting Tutorial: The Patchwork Quilter Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This sweet knitted bunny brings together heirloom toy charm, cozy cottage decor, and collectible handmade style in one lovely project. With her patchwork dress, velvet-look cardigan, head scarf, tiny shoes, knitting needles, quilt panel, and sleeping calico cat, she feels like a boutique handmade doll you might search for as a knitted bunny pattern, collectible rabbit doll, nursery toy, or handmade gift idea. The shaping is soft and rounded, the proportions are gentle and storybook-like, and every detail is written to help you create a polished finished piece that looks beautifully styled for display or thoughtful gift-giving.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written to recreate the knitted scene as closely as possible: a seated bunny with a slightly oversized head, long upright ears, a narrow neck, a rounded upper body, soft stuffed arms, long simple legs, Mary Jane shoes, a patchwork skirt, short cardigan, tied head scarf, small quilt panel, and a curled sleeping cat.

The bunny is designed as a decorative knitted soft sculpture. The finished bunny sits rather than stands. When seated, the proportions should feel tall and narrow through the body, with the head taking visual priority. The cat is scaled to nest beside her, resting on a folded blanket.

Finished sizes using the gauge below:

• Bunny seated height: about 14 inches / 35.5 cm from feet to top of ears
• Bunny body height without ears: about 10 inches / 25.5 cm
• Sleeping cat length: about 5 inches / 12.5 cm curled
• Quilt panel: about 3 x 3.5 inches / 7.5 x 9 cm

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: DK weight in warm cream, about 70 g
• Dress colors: small amounts of pastel DK yarn in dusty pink, pale yellow, sage, sky blue, lavender, soft peach, and cream
• Cardigan yarn: DK or light worsted in deep wine / burgundy, about 25 g
• Shoes yarn: DK in dark red, small amount
• Scarf yarn: fingering or very light DK in muted rose print effect or use a dusty rose solid if preferred
• Cat yarn: cream, orange, black, and pink scraps
• Blanket yarn: muted plaid-friendly shades or a neutral tweed effect
• 3 mm straight or double-pointed needles
• 2.75 mm needles for smaller details if desired
• Tapestry needle
• Small amount of toy stuffing
• Black embroidery thread for eyes and mouth
• Soft pink embroidery thread or blush yarn for cheeks
• Thin craft wire optional for ears only, if you want firmer shaping
• 2 short wooden cocktail sticks or smooth doll knitting needles for styling the hands

Gauge

28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on 3 mm needles after light blocking.

A firm gauge is important. The toy should be knitted tightly enough that stuffing does not show through.

Abbreviations

• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• dec = decrease
• inc = increase by knitting into front and back of stitch
• k = knit
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• p = purl
• p2tog = purl 2 stitches together
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• st st = stockinette stitch
• WS = wrong side
• yo = yarn over

Construction Notes

The bunny is made in separate pieces and then assembled. The head is slightly wider than the torso. The ears are long but not extremely narrow. The arms are short and rounded. The legs are slim tubes with soft bend at the ankle. The dress is worked in sections to imitate a pieced patchwork look.

To match the image well, keep the stuffing moderate. Do not overstuff the head or body. The toy should have a soft, handcrafted, almost old-fashioned shape rather than a sharply sculpted modern amigurumi look.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Bunny Head

Make 2 identical head pieces in cream.

Using 3 mm needles, CO 14 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: K1, inc, k5, inc, k2, inc, k5, inc, k1. 18 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K2, inc, k5, inc, k4, inc, k5, inc, k2. 22 sts.
5. Row 5: Purl.
6. Row 6: K2, inc, k7, inc, k4, inc, k7, inc, k2. 26 sts.
7. Row 7: Purl.
8. Row 8: K3, inc, k7, inc, k4, inc, k7, inc, k3. 30 sts.
9. Rows 9 to 21: Work 13 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
10. Row 22: K3, k2tog, k9, k2tog, k2, ssk, k9, ssk, k3. 26 sts.
11. Row 23: Purl.
12. Row 24: K3, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k2, ssk, k7, ssk, k3. 22 sts.
13. Row 25: Purl.
14. Row 26: K2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2, ssk, k6, ssk, k2. 18 sts.
15. Row 27: Purl.
16. Row 28: K1, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k5, ssk, k1. 14 sts.
17. Row 29: Purl.
18. Row 30: K2tog across. 7 sts.
19. Break yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight.

Place the two head pieces together with RS facing out. Mattress stitch around, leaving the lower straight edge open for joining to the neck. Stuff firmly but gently, keeping the chin area slightly flatter than the crown.

Muzzle Shaping

Thread a length of cream yarn through the lower center of the face, about 5 rows up from the neck opening. Take a small horizontal stitch across 4 stitches and draw lightly to create a subtle muzzle. Do not pull hard. The face in the image is simple and soft, not deeply sculpted.

Ears

Make 4 ear pieces in cream, 2 for each ear.

CO 8 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: K1, inc, k6, inc, k1. 10 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K1, inc, k8, inc, k1. 12 sts.
5. Row 5: Purl.
6. Rows 6 to 13: Work 8 rows in st st.
7. Row 14: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
8. Row 15: Purl.
9. Row 16: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
10. Row 17: Purl.
11. Row 18: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
12. Row 19: Purl.
13. Row 20: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
14. Row 21: Purl.
15. Row 22: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
16. Break yarn and pull through.

Sew 2 ear pieces together for each ear, leaving the cast-on edge open. Add a tiny amount of stuffing only at the base. Flatten the upper ear. If using wire, insert a very thin wrapped wire before closing, but keep the ear soft and slightly curved.

The ears should sit upright with a mild outward angle, not straight up like antennae. Sew each ear onto the crown with about 6 stitches between them at the base. Angle them slightly forward.

Neck and Upper Torso

Make 2 body pieces in cream.

CO 12 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: K1, inc, k4, inc, k2, inc, k4, inc, k1. 16 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K1, inc, k6, inc, k2, inc, k6, inc, k1. 20 sts.
5. Row 5: Purl.
6. Rows 6 to 11: Work 6 rows in st st.
7. Row 12: K2, inc, k6, inc, k2, inc, k6, inc, k2. 24 sts.
8. Row 13: Purl.
9. Rows 14 to 23: Work 10 rows in st st.
10. Row 24: K2, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k2, ssk, k7, ssk, k2. 20 sts.
11. Row 25: Purl.
12. Row 26: K1, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2, ssk, k6, ssk, k1. 16 sts.
13. Row 27: Purl.
14. BO knitwise on RS.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Sew body pieces together along sides and lower edge, leaving top open for joining to head and lower edge partially open for inserting the legs if desired. Stuff lightly. The torso should be softly rounded, narrower at the neck and slightly fuller at the lower part.

Arms

Make 2 in cream.

CO 8 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work 4 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
2. Row 5: K1, inc, k6, inc, k1. 10 sts.
3. Row 6: Purl.
4. Rows 7 to 15: Work 9 rows in st st.
5. Row 16: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
6. Row 17: Purl.
7. Row 18: K2tog, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
8. Row 19: Purl.
9. Row 20: K2tog 3 times. 3 sts.
10. Break yarn and thread through.

Sew each arm into a slim tube. Stuff the paw end more than the upper arm. The arm should look rounded at the hand and gently tapered at the shoulder.

For the image pose, stitch the arms to the upper body so they angle downward and slightly inward. The paws should rest in front of the skirt as though holding knitting.

Legs

Make 2 in cream.

CO 10 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 20: Work 20 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
2. Row 21: K1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1. 8 sts.
3. Row 22: Purl.
4. Rows 23 to 26: Work 4 rows in st st.
5. BO.

Sew each leg into a tube with the decrease section forming the ankle. Stuff lightly. Flatten the top opening and stitch closed. Bend each leg slightly at the ankle before attaching.

Sew the legs to the very lower front of the body so that they hang forward when the bunny is seated. The feet should rest close together, with a narrow gap between them.

Mary Jane Shoes

Make 2 in dark red.

Each shoe is worked flat from sole to upper.

CO 12 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Garter stitch.
2. Row 5: K4, BO 4, k4.
3. Row 6: P4, CO 4 over bound-off section, p4. 12 sts.
4. Rows 7 to 10: Work 4 rows in st st.
5. Row 11: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
6. Row 12: Purl.
7. Row 13: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
8. Row 14: Purl.
9. Row 15: K2tog, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
10. Break yarn, thread through remaining sts.

Sew the back seam. Gather the toe slightly. The opening created in rows 5 and 6 becomes the strap gap. Stitch the shoes onto the feet with the strap centered high on the front. The shoes should be snug, shallow, and slightly rounded at the toe.

Patchwork Dress Bodice

The top visible under the cardigan is simple and pale. Work a tiny bodice in soft blue-gray or pale blue.

CO 18 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 10: Work 10 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
2. Row 11: K4, BO 10, k4.
3. Row 12: P4, CO 10, p4. 18 sts.
4. Rows 13 to 16: Work 4 rows in st st.
5. BO.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Sew side seam to make a small tube. Slip over the torso before attaching the head if you prefer, or wrap and stitch in place at the back. Keep it close fitting.

Patchwork Skirt Panels

The skirt is the main visual feature. To match the image, use softly colored rectangular blocks arranged in horizontal tiers. The easiest way to recreate the look is to knit separate small rectangles and seam them into a flared skirt panel.

You need 18 small rectangles total. Each rectangle is worked in garter edge with stockinette center for tidy seaming.

For each rectangle: CO 8 sts.

1. Row 1: Knit.
2. Row 2: K1, p6, k1.
3. Rows 3 to 10: Rep rows 1 and 2 four more times.
4. Row 11: Knit.
5. BO on row 12 purlwise.

Make rectangles in the following colors or close matches:

• 3 pale pink
• 3 soft yellow
• 3 pale blue
• 3 sage green
• 3 lavender
• 3 cream or peach

Arrange them into 3 rows of 6 rectangles each. Alternate colors so no two matching colors sit side by side if possible. Sew each row together, then sew rows together. This creates one wide patchwork sheet.

For the upper edge of the skirt, pick up and knit 48 sts evenly across one long edge in cream or a neutral joining color.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: K2tog across. 24 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K1, inc, rep to end. 48 sts.
5. Rows 5 to 8: Work 4 rows in st st.
6. BO.

The gathered edge creates a softly pleated waistband. Wrap the skirt around the lower torso and stitch at the back. The hem should spread over the seated lap and down around the sides.

Skirt Hem Border

Using cream, pick up 72 sts evenly around the lower skirt edge.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Garter stitch.
2. BO knitwise.

This gives the neat light-colored border visible at the dress hem.

Wine Cardigan

The cardigan is short, soft, and rounded, ending above the lower skirt tiers. Work in deep burgundy.

Back

CO 20 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Garter stitch.
2. Rows 5 to 16: Work 12 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 17: K5, BO 10, k5.
4. Row 18: P5, CO 10, p5.
5. Rows 19 to 22: Work 4 rows in st st.
6. BO.

Left Front

CO 12 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Garter stitch.
2. Rows 5 to 12: Work 8 rows in st st, keeping 2 edge sts at front opening in garter stitch.
3. Row 13: K1, ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2.
4. Row 14: Purl, knitting the last 2 sts.
5. Rep rows 13 and 14 twice more. 9 sts.
6. Rows 19 to 22: Work straight.
7. BO.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Right Front

Work as left front, reversing shaping.

Sleeves

Make 2.

CO 14 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Garter stitch.
2. Row 5: K1, inc, k12, inc, k1. 16 sts.
3. Row 6: Purl.
4. Rows 7 to 14: Work 8 rows in st st.
5. BO loosely.

Sew shoulders. Attach sleeves with a soft gathered top. Sew side and sleeve seams. Dress the cardigan on the bunny and tack lightly at the front edges so it stays open but close to the body.

The sleeves in the image are slightly full and end around wrist length. If your cardigan looks too long, roll the lower edge once to mimic a soft velvet-knit effect.

Head Scarf

The scarf is a simple triangle tied behind one ear side.

Using muted rose yarn, CO 2 sts.

1. Row 1: Knit.
2. Row 2: Kfb in first st, knit to end. 3 sts.
3. Row 3: Knit.
4. Rep rows 2 and 3 until you have 24 sts.
5. Work 2 rows garter.
6. Row next: K1, k2tog, knit to end. Dec 1 st.
7. Knit 1 row.
8. Rep last 2 rows until 2 sts remain.
9. BO.

Wrap around the head with the long edge framing the forehead and the point falling back. Tie one small knot or stitched bow at the side-back of the head.

Tiny Quilt Panel

This is the small patchwork piece in the bunny’s lap. It should look like an in-progress quilt square.

Make 9 tiny squares, each in a different pastel or neutral color.

For each tiny square: CO 6 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 8: Garter stitch.
2. BO.

Sew the 9 squares into a 3 by 3 panel. With cream, pick up and knit around the outer edge.

1. Round 1 or edge row: Knit all picked-up sts.
2. Round 2 or edge row: Knit.
3. BO.

Lay this panel over the bunny’s lap at a slight angle. Add one loose strand of yarn trailing from it to the yarn ball on the floor.

Yarn Ball

CO 8 sts in cream.

1. Rows 1 to 8: Work 8 rows in st st.
2. Row 9: K2tog across. 4 sts.
3. Break yarn and draw through.

Sew into a tiny sphere and wrap a separate strand around it several times in different directions. Place beside the bunny’s left foot with the strand leading to the quilt panel.

Knitting Needles Prop

Use two short smooth wooden picks, 3 to 4 inches long. If you prefer fully knitted props, make two i-cords over 2 stitches for 3 inches each and stiffen lightly. Cross them through the paws and quilt panel so the bunny appears to be knitting.

Sleeping Calico Cat

The cat is knitted in separate body and tail pieces, then embroidered with color patches or worked in simple stripe blocks. To match the image, keep the cat compact, tightly curled, and softly stuffed.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Cat Body, make 2

Using cream as the base, CO 10 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: K1, inc, k8, inc, k1. 12 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K1, inc, k10, inc, k1. 14 sts.
5. Row 5: Purl.
6. Rows 6 to 13: Work 8 rows in st st.
7. To create patch placement, work rows 14 to 19 in colored sections as follows on each knit row: k4 orange, k4 black, k6 cream. Purl back in matching colors if desired, or carry floats neatly.
8. Row 20: K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
9. Row 21: Purl.
10. Row 22: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
11. Row 23: Purl.
12. Row 24: K2tog, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
13. Row 25: Purl.
14. Row 26: K2tog, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
15. Break yarn and draw through.

Sew body pieces together, leaving a small opening. Stuff lightly. Curve the body into a sleeping curl and close the opening while shaping. One side should appear as the back, the other as the tucked chest.

Cat Head Bump

CO 6 sts in cream.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work 4 rows in st st.
2. Row 5: K2tog across. 3 sts.
3. Break yarn and draw through.

Fold into a tiny oval and sew at one end of the body to suggest the sleeping head tucked inward.

Cat Ears

Make 2 tiny triangles.

CO 3 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: Kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K2tog, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
5. Row 5: Purl.
6. Row 6: K3tog. 1 st.

Sew onto the head bump. One ear can be more visible than the other.

Cat Tail

Using orange and black stripes over cream base if desired, CO 6 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 16: Work 16 rows in st st, changing color every 2 rows.
2. Row 17: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
3. Row 18: Purl.
4. Row 19: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
5. Break yarn and pull through.

Sew into a tube, stuff very lightly, and curve around the body front. Stitch firmly in place so the tail wraps around the curled sleeping shape.

Cat Facial Detail

• Embroider closed eyes with 2 tiny downward curved stitches in black.
• Use pink for a tiny nose.
• Add one white or cream muzzle stitch if needed, but keep details very minimal.

Folded Blanket Under the Cat

This blanket helps set the scene and supports the cat’s placement.

Using mixed neutral shades, CO 24 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 40: Work in seed stitch or garter-stitch stripe sections, changing color every 6 to 8 rows.
2. BO.

Fold the rectangle into thirds to create a thick folded blanket. Tack one fold so it stays stacked. Place the cat on top.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff the head.
2. Sew ears and attach to head.
3. Sew and stuff torso.
4. Attach head to torso with the seam centered.
5. Sew and stuff arms and legs.
6. Attach legs low and close together.
7. Attach arms high on the body, angled inward.
8. Dress the bunny in bodice, skirt, cardigan, shoes, and scarf.
9. Add quilt panel, yarn ball, and knitting needle props.
10. Make and place the blanket and cat.

Facial Placement Guide

The face is very simple and sweet. Keep the eyes small and wide set. Place each eye about 7 stitches apart and about halfway down the head, slightly below ear base level. Use one small vertical or slightly oval black stitch for each eye.

For the nose, embroider a tiny inverted Y shape centered on the muzzle. Extend the lower line only slightly. The mouth should be delicate and short, not smiling broadly. Add very soft pink blush circles on the cheeks with light thread or pastel pencil.

Posing to Match the Image

• Head: keep upright with only a very slight tilt.
• Ears: upright, open, and softly angled outward.
• Arms: low and forward, holding the quilt and needles.
• Legs: extended forward from the seated body.
• Dress: spread in a round shape over the lap.
• Cardigan: open front, ending just above the mid-skirt.
• Scarf: tied to one side behind the ear area.
• Cat: curled tightly on a folded blanket beside the bunny.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all pieces are attached, check the bunny from the front and side before tightening any final stitches. Add the eyes first, then the nose and mouth, and blush last. If the face looks too high, lower the nose by one row rather than moving the eyes. Tuck in all yarn ends carefully inside the body or dress layers so no tails show in the finished display.

Care Notes

This toy is best treated as a decorative knitted keepsake. Avoid rough pulling on the ears, scarf, knitting props, and cat tail. Keep out of prolonged direct sunlight to preserve the soft pastel tones. If gifting to a child, omit removable props and use securely embroidered details only.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both ears evenly spaced and angled?
• Do the feet sit level when the bunny is seated?
• Is the skirt spread evenly around the lap?
• Are the cardigan fronts balanced?
• Are the eyes symmetrical and the nose centered?
• Is the quilt panel attached at a natural angle?
• Does the cat curve neatly around its tail?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean gently with a barely damp cloth and mild soap only when needed. Do not machine wash, soak, wring, or tumble dry. Reshape by hand and dry flat on a towel away from heat. For long-term storage, wrap in clean tissue and place in a breathable cotton bag rather than plastic. If displayed on a shelf, dust lightly with a soft dry brush every few weeks.