Knitting Tutorial: The “Sweet Garden Peas” Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This heirloom-style bunny knitting pattern is written to recreate the soft garden look of the sample: a long-eared cream rabbit in a mint bonnet, pale dress, green pinafore, dark green Mary Jane shoes, and tiny pea-themed accessories. It is perfect for knitters searching for a handmade bunny doll pattern, knitted rabbit toy, nursery gift idea, collectible soft toy, or handmade spring decor. The finished set also includes a small knitted mouse and a pea pod prop, giving the whole display the feel of a boutique handmade toy you might shop for in a premium artisan toy store.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is worked mostly flat in small pieces and seamed, because that method gives the same gentle shaping and tidy handmade look seen in the photo. The bunny has a large oval head, narrow neck, softly stuffed tube-shaped body, slim arms, long straight legs, oversized upright ears, and simple embroidered facial details.

The outfit is built in layers. First, the bunny wears a soft cream dress with tiny green dots. Over that sits a mint pinafore with a central pocket. A mint bonnet frames the face and ties under the chin. Dark green shoes finish the look. The accessories are a knitted pea pod with three peas and a tiny gray mouse holding one pea.

The instructions below are written in US English and use standard knitting abbreviations. All shaping has been calculated to keep the proportions as close as possible to the image: the head is large in relation to the body, the ears are tall and narrow, the arms sit low and slim, and the legs hang long beneath the dress.

Finished Size

• Bunny height seated: about 12 inches / 30.5 cm from shoes to top of ears
• Bunny body height without ears: about 8 inches / 20 cm
• Mouse height: about 2 1/4 inches / 5.5 cm
• Pea pod length: about 3 1/4 inches / 8 cm

Exact size depends on yarn, stuffing density, and your personal tension. The fabric should be firm enough that stuffing does not show through.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light fingering or heavy lace weight wool in warm cream
• Bonnet and pinafore yarn: light fingering or heavy lace weight wool in pale mint green
• Dress dot yarn: very small amount of soft sage green
• Shoes yarn: dark forest green
• Mouse yarn: light gray, dark gray, pale pink, and pea green
• Pea pod yarn: medium leaf green and lighter pea green
• Needles: US 1.5 / 2.5 mm straight needles and double-pointed needles if preferred
• Tapestry needle
• Toy stuffing
• Two 5 mm black beads for bunny eyes, or French knots if preferred
• Two 3 mm black beads for mouse eyes, optional
• Small buttons: 2 tiny cream or pale green buttons for shoe straps if desired
• Embroidery thread: brown for bunny nose and mouth, pink for mouse nose

Gauge

32 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on US 1.5 / 2.5 mm needles after light blocking. Gauge matters because the toy must hold its shape. If your fabric looks loose, go down a needle size.

Abbreviations

• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• m1 = make 1 increase
• p = purl
• p2tog = purl 2 stitches together
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• St st = stockinette stitch
• WS = wrong side

Notes Before You Begin

The bunny in the photo has a calm, vintage look. To keep that appearance, use gentle stuffing rather than overfilling every piece. The head should be firm enough to sit upright, but not hard. The body should be softly stuffed. The arms are lightly stuffed. The ears are left unstuffed.

All pieces are worked flat unless otherwise stated. Leave long tails for sewing. When seaming, mattress stitch is best for visible smooth joins. Use tiny stitches and shape as you go so the doll keeps the same quiet expression and balanced proportions shown in the image.

Bunny Head

Make 2 side head pieces

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): p all sts.
3. Row 2: k all sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 14 sts.
6. Row 5: p all sts.
7. Row 6: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 16 sts.
8. Row 7: p all sts.
9. Row 8: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 18 sts.
10. Row 9: p all sts.
11. Row 10: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 20 sts.
12. Row 11: p all sts.
13. Row 12: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 22 sts.
14. Rows 13-27: work 15 rows in St st, beginning with a purl row.
15. Row 28: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 20 sts.
16. Row 29: p all sts.
17. Row 30: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
18. Row 31: p all sts.
19. Row 32: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
20. Row 33: p all sts.
21. Row 34: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
22. Row 35: p all sts.
23. Row 36: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
24. BO knitwise.

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Center head gusset

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-5: work in St st, beginning with a knit row.
3. Row 6: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 7: p all sts.
5. Row 8: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 12 sts.
6. Row 9: p all sts.
7. Rows 10-30: work 21 rows in St st.
8. Row 31: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
9. Row 32: p all sts.
10. Row 33: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
11. BO.

Sew the center gusset between the two side head pieces from nose tip over the forehead and down the back of the head. Leave the lower neck opening unsewn. Stuff very firmly through the neck opening, shaping a slightly fuller muzzle and round cheeks. Close the neck opening neatly.

Bunny Ears

Make 2 outer ears in cream

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 12 sts.
6. Row 5: p all sts.
7. Row 6: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 14 sts.
8. Rows 7-23: work 17 rows in St st.
9. Row 24: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
10. Row 25: p all sts.
11. Row 26: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
12. Row 27: p all sts.
13. Row 28: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
14. Row 29: p all sts.
15. Row 30: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
16. BO.

Make 2 inner ears in cream

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 8 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 10 sts.
6. Rows 5-19: work 15 rows in St st.
7. Row 20: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
8. Row 21: p all sts.
9. Row 22: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
10. Row 23: p all sts.
11. Row 24: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
12. BO.

Place each inner ear on an outer ear, centered and slightly above the cast-on edge, then whipstitch around the sides and tip. Do not stuff. Fold the lower 1/2 inch / 1.25 cm of each ear slightly inward and tack the fold. This gives the tall, softly cupped upright ear shape seen in the photo.

Bunny Body

Front body

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1-5: work in St st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 6: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 20 sts.
4. Row 7: p all sts.
5. Row 8: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 22 sts.
6. Rows 9-25: work 17 rows in St st.
7. Row 26: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 20 sts.
8. Row 27: p all sts.
9. Row 28: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
10. Rows 29-35: work 7 rows in St st.
11. BO.

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Back body

Work exactly as front body.

Sew front and back together at shoulders and sides, leaving lower edge open if you want to add extra stuffing during leg placement. Stuff softly and evenly. The body should be narrower than the head and not too round. Close the lower opening after legs are attached.

Bunny Arms

Make 2

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-18: work in St st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 19: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
4. Row 20: p all sts.
5. Row 21: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
6. BO.

Sew side seam. Lightly stuff the lower two-thirds only, keeping the upper edge flat for sewing. The arms in the image are slim and straight, with very little bend. Do not overstuff.

Bunny Legs

Make 2 in cream

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-26: work in St st, beginning with a purl row.
3. BO.

Sew each leg into a narrow tube. Stuff firmly but keep the shape straight rather than chunky. Flatten the top edge of each leg and close with a short row of stitching. These flat tops will later be sewn under the skirt so the legs hang neatly from the body.

Shoes

Make 2 in dark forest green

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-2: garter stitch.
3. Row 3 (RS): k all sts.
4. Row 4: p all sts.
5. Row 5: k all sts.
6. Row 6: p2tog, p6, p2tog. 8 sts.
7. Row 7: k all sts.
8. Row 8: p all sts.
9. Row 9: k2tog, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
10. Rows 10-13: work 4 rows in St st.
11. BO.

Sew the cast-on edge to the bound-off edge to make a rounded slipper cup. Gather the toe slightly while seaming so the front becomes softly domed. Slip over the foot end of each leg and sew in place.

Shoe straps

1. Using dark green, CO 8 sts.
2. BO knitwise on the next row.

Make 2. Sew one strap across each shoe opening at a slight diagonal, leaving one side free first to test fit. Stitch a tiny pale button at the outer side if desired. In the photo, the strap is simple and neat, not chunky.

Cream Dress

The dress is cream with tiny green dots scattered across it. The shape is a simple sleeveless dress with a softly flared skirt. The bodice sits under the pinafore, so keep it slim. The skirt should show below the apron in a gentle bell shape.

Dress skirt and bodice worked as one piece, make 2

1. Using cream, CO 28 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: garter stitch.
3. Begin dot rows. On every 8th row, place 3 tiny duplicate-stitch dots later in sage green instead of carrying yarn through the knitting. This keeps the fabric smooth.
4. Rows 5-15: work in St st.
5. Row 16: k2tog, k10, k2tog, k2tog, k10, k2tog. 24 sts.
6. Row 17: p all sts.
7. Rows 18-23: work in St st.
8. Row 24: k2tog, k8, k2tog, k2tog, k8, k2tog. 20 sts.
9. Row 25: p all sts.
10. Rows 26-29: work in St st.
11. Row 30: k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2tog, k6, k2tog. 16 sts.
12. Row 31: p all sts.
13. Row 32: k all sts.
14. Row 33: p5, BO 6 sts, p5.
15. Row 34: k5, CO 6 sts, k5. 16 sts.
16. Rows 35-38: work in St st.
17. BO.

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Sew the shoulder tops and side seams, leaving the arm openings clear. Turn under the neck opening very slightly and stitch down if needed. Add tiny sage green duplicate-stitch dots randomly over the skirt and upper dress. Keep them sparse, matching the delicate dotted effect in the image.

Mint Pinafore Apron

The pinafore is one of the most recognizable parts of the design. It is pale mint green, sleeveless, and slightly shorter than the cream dress. The center front carries one soft patch pocket. The hem is plain and neat, with no lace.

Front pinafore

1. Using mint, CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1-3: garter stitch.
3. Rows 4-15: work in St st.
4. Row 16: k2tog, k8, k2tog, k8, k2tog. 19 sts.
5. Row 17: p all sts.
6. Rows 18-22: work in St st.
7. Row 23: k5, BO 9 sts, k5.
8. Row 24: p5, CO 9 sts, p5. 19 sts.
9. Rows 25-28: work in St st.
10. BO.

Back pinafore ties

1. Using mint, CO 3 sts.
2. Work 18 rows in garter stitch.
3. BO.

Make 2. Sew one strap to each upper back corner of the pinafore front. Cross them over the back of the bunny and stitch them down under the dress or secure with tiny hidden snaps if you want the apron removable.

Pocket

1. Using mint, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-6: St st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 7: knit.
4. BO loosely.

Sew the pocket to the center front of the pinafore about 1 inch / 2.5 cm above the lower edge. Leave the upper edge open. Shape it gently with tiny gathering stitches at the lower corners to create the rounded pocket seen in the image.

Bonnet

The bonnet frames the face closely and ties under the chin in a small bow. It is softly fitted, not floppy. The back of the bonnet narrows into a point-like gathered shape. A few embroidered vine stitches decorate one side.

Main bonnet piece

1. Using mint, CO 38 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: garter stitch.
3. Rows 5-24: work in St st, beginning with a purl row.
4. Row 25: k2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 36 sts.
5. Row 26: p all sts.
6. Row 27: k2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 34 sts.
7. Row 28: p all sts.
8. Continue decreasing in this way on every RS row 7 more times. 20 sts.
9. Rows 43-46: work in St st.
10. Row 47: k2tog across. 10 sts.
11. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, and pull tight.

Sew the short back seam if needed to create the fitted hood shape. Try it on the head before securing permanently. The front opening should hug the face and sit low enough that the ears appear to rise out from behind it.

Bonnet ties

1. Using mint, CO 20 sts.
2. BO knitwise on next row.

Make 2. Sew one tie to each lower front bonnet corner. Tie in a soft knot or bow under the chin.

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Bonnet embroidery

Using brown embroidery thread or fine yarn, add a slim trailing vine on one bonnet side. Work 3 short stem stitches for the branch and 4 to 6 tiny slanted leaf stitches in green-brown tones. Keep this detail very light and delicate.

Pea Pod Accessory

The bunny holds an open green pea pod with three round peas inside. The pod is narrow, pointed at both ends, and folded open enough to show the peas clearly. This little prop adds the garden theme that defines the design.

Peas, make 3

1. Using light pea green, CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1-3: St st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 4: k2tog across. 3 sts.
4. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight.

Sew the side seam into a tiny ball and stuff with a pinch of filling. Make 2 peas in light green and 1 pea in a slightly darker green for the mixed look shown in the image.

Pod outer piece, make 2

1. Using leaf green, CO 4 sts.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 6 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 8 sts.
6. Row 5: p all sts.
7. Row 6: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 10 sts.
8. Rows 7-19: work in St st.
9. Row 20: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
10. Row 21: p all sts.
11. Row 22: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
12. Row 23: p all sts.
13. Row 24: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
14. BO.

Place the two pod pieces WS together and seam only the lower long edge and both pointed ends. Leave the upper long edge open. Stitch the three peas lightly inside, spaced evenly. Fold the pod open and tack one side back slightly so the peas remain visible.

Mouse Body

The tiny mouse is plump, upright, and very simple, with small round ears and a thin tail. It holds a pea at its tummy. The knitted mouse should look secondary to the bunny, so keep the details minimal and sweet.

Mouse front and back, make 2 in light gray

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 12 sts.
6. Rows 5-12: work in St st.
7. Row 13: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
8. Row 14: p all sts.
9. Row 15: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
10. Row 16: p all sts.
11. Row 17: k2tog, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
12. BO.

Sew front and back together, leaving lower edge open. Stuff firmly enough to form a pear shape, wider at the base and narrower at the head. Close the lower edge.

Mouse ears, make 2 in darker gray

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: k1, m1, k2, m1, k1. 6 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k2tog, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
6. BO.

Sew to head sides.

Mouse arms, make 2

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: St st.
3. BO.

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Fold and sew as tiny tubes or flat strips and stitch to the front so they appear to cradle the pea.

Mouse tail

1. Using gray, CO 14 sts.
2. BO knitwise on next row.

Twist lightly and stitch to the lower back.

Mouse pea

Work exactly as one pea from the pea pod section, but use the medium green shade. Sew it to the mouse tummy and tack the arms over it.

Making Up the Bunny

Dress the bunny first before final attachment of every accessory. Sew the legs to the lower body so they hang straight and slightly apart. Slip the shoes into place and angle the feet outward a little. This small turn helps recreate the relaxed seated posture in the photo.

Sew the arms low on each side of the body, just under the dress arm openings. The arms should hang vertically with only a slight forward tilt. Attach the head securely to the body, keeping the neck short. The large head should sit centered and upright.

Pin the ears in place before sewing. They rise high from the top sides of the head, close together but not touching. Each ear angles outward slightly from the base, then stands mostly vertical. This ear position matters a lot for matching the silhouette in the image.

Place the cream dress onto the bunny and stitch it closed if you prefer a permanent outfit. Then add the mint pinafore over it. Fit the bonnet around the head, leaving the ears free, and tie it neatly under the chin. Finally, stitch the pea pod into one paw and place the mouse beside the bunny.

Facial Placement Guide

• Eyes: place 8 rows below the top center seam and 6 sts apart
• Nose: place 5 rows below eye line, centered on the face
• Mouth: work a short vertical stitch down from the nose, then two tiny angled stitches outward
• Mouse eyes: set close together, high on the face
• Mouse nose: tiny pink triangle or French knot

The bunny face in the photo is extremely simple. Do not add blush, eyebrows, or extra sculpting. The beauty comes from restraint: tiny black eyes, a soft brown stitched nose, and a small mouth.

Detailed Styling Tips for Accuracy

• Keep the head fuller than the body.
• Do not make the body too wide.
• Stuff the muzzle slightly more than the upper head.
• Keep the ears unstuffed and softly cupped.
• Use a pale mint, not a bright green, for bonnet and pinafore.
• Make the shoes distinctly darker than the pinafore.
• Scatter dress dots lightly and irregularly.
• Keep the bonnet embroidery subtle and asymmetric on one side.
• The apron pocket must sit low and centered.
• The mouse should be tiny compared with the bunny.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Secure all seams tightly, then check the balance of the seated bunny. Stitch the eyes first, then embroider the nose and mouth in fine brown thread. Tie the bonnet under the chin with a soft knot. Attach the pea pod to one paw and set the mouse beside the bunny.

Care Notes

Display this knitted set away from direct sunlight and strong humidity. Gentle handling will help the ears, bonnet, and accessories keep their shape. This project is intended as a decorative knitted toy rather than rough-play nursery wear.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head stuffed firmly and evenly
• Ears matched and placed symmetrically
• Eyes level and centered
• Dress dots added lightly
• Pinafore pocket attached
• Bonnet ties secure
• Shoe straps stitched neatly
• Pea pod and mouse completed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with cool water and a mild wool-safe soap. Do not machine wash. Blot gently with a towel and reshape while damp. Dry flat away from heat. For storage, wrap in clean tissue and keep in a dry box to protect the knitted fabric, embroidery, and small accessories.