Knitting Tutorial: The Vintage Pram Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

Knitting Tutorial: The Vintage Pram Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This sweet heirloom-style bunny set is designed to look like a collectible knitted rabbit doll with a tiny baby pram, soft bonnet, pale blue dress, cream cardigan, and a sleeping baby bunny tucked inside. The finished set has the gentle look of luxury nursery decor, a handmade baby shower gift, or a keepsake toy you might search for in a boutique toy shop. The shaping is soft and classic, the colors are timeless, and every piece is written with clear stitch counts so you can knit a polished display-quality set that closely matches the picture.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern includes all knitted pieces shown in the image:

  • The standing mother bunny
  • The blue dress
  • The cream cardigan
  • The lace-edged blue bonnet
  • The small knitted shoes
  • The vintage-style pram
  • The sleeping baby bunny
  • The swaddle blanket inside the pram

The style is intentionally delicate and slightly old-fashioned. The proportions are important: the standing bunny has a large oval head, narrow shoulders, a softly rounded lower body under the dress, long relaxed ears, short arms, and compact feet. The pram sits low and wide beside her, with a deep hood and four visible wheels.

Materials

  • Main bunny yarn: fingering weight or light 4-ply wool in warm ivory, 120 to 150 g
  • Dress and pram yarn: fingering weight or light 4-ply wool in dusty baby blue, 120 to 140 g
  • Cardigan yarn: fingering weight or light 4-ply wool in soft cream, 60 to 80 g
  • Lace trim yarn: very fine cream yarn, small amount
  • Wheel yarn: dark charcoal or black, small amount
  • Embroidery yarn: black for eyes and nose, pale pink optional for inner ear tint
  • Needles: 2.25 mm straight needles, 2.5 mm straight needles, and a set of 2.25 mm double-pointed needles
  • Toy stuffing: fine polyester stuffing
  • Pipe cleaner or soft craft wire: for pram handle and frame support, optional but recommended
  • Thin card: for pram base and foot soles, optional
  • Small buttons: 3 tiny cream buttons for cardigan
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge: 36 sts and 48 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on 2.25 mm needles after light blocking.

The gauge is important because the whole set depends on fine proportion. A looser gauge will make the bunny too soft and round. A tighter gauge gives the smooth, sculpted look seen in the image.

Approximate finished sizes:

  • Standing bunny: 11 in / 28 cm tall from feet to top of bonnet
  • Pram: 5 1/2 in / 14 cm long, 4 in / 10 cm high to hood edge
  • Baby bunny: 3 1/2 in / 9 cm long

Abbreviations

  • BO = bind off
  • CO = cast on
  • k = knit
  • k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
  • M1 = make 1 stitch
  • p = purl
  • pm = place marker
  • rep = repeat
  • RS = right side
  • ssk = slip, slip, knit
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • St st = stockinette stitch
  • WS = wrong side

General Construction Notes

The mother bunny is made from separate legs, body, head, arms, and ears. The clothing is knitted separately and dressed onto the finished bunny. The pram is made from a shaped basket, hood, mattress, handle, and wheels. The baby bunny is very small, softly stuffed, and wrapped in a cream blanket.

For a finish close to the image, keep stuffing firm in the head, moderate in the body, and light in the ears and arms. Take extra time with seaming. Most of the vintage look comes from neat shaping, clean seams, and restrained facial embroidery.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Mother Bunny: Legs Make 2

Using ivory yarn and 2.25 mm needles, CO 8 sts.

  1. Row 1 WS: purl.
  2. Row 2 RS: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
  3. Row 3: purl.
  4. Row 4: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
  5. Row 5: purl.
  6. Row 6: k1, M1, k10, M1, k1. 14 sts.
  7. Rows 7 to 18: work 12 rows in St st, beginning with a purl row.
  8. Row 19 RS: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
  9. Row 20: purl.
  10. Row 21: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
  11. Row 22: purl.
  12. Rows 23 to 34: work 12 rows in St st.

Break yarn and place the 10 sts on hold. Make the second leg the same.

Sew a small sole seam at the cast-on edge of each leg before stuffing. Add a tiny piece of card if you want firmer feet. Stuff the foot section lightly now, but leave the top half of each leg unstuffed until body assembly.

Mother Bunny: Join Legs and Knit Body

Place both sets of leg stitches on one needle, ready to knit across the first leg, CO 4 sts for the crotch, knit across the second leg. 24 sts total.

  1. Row 1 WS: purl 24.
  2. Row 2 RS: knit 24.
  3. Row 3: purl.
  4. Row 4: k10, M1, k4, M1, k10. 26 sts.
  5. Row 5: purl.
  6. Row 6: k10, M1, k6, M1, k10. 28 sts.
  7. Rows 7 to 15: work 9 rows in St st.
  8. Row 16 RS: k2, k2tog, k20, ssk, k2. 26 sts.
  9. Row 17: purl.
  10. Row 18: k2, k2tog, k18, ssk, k2. 24 sts.
  11. Rows 19 to 25: work 7 rows in St st.
  12. Row 26 RS: k2, k2tog, k16, ssk, k2. 22 sts.
  13. Row 27: purl.
  14. Row 28: k2, k2tog, k14, ssk, k2. 20 sts.
  15. Rows 29 to 36: work 8 rows in St st.
  16. Row 37 RS: k1, k2tog, k14, ssk, k1. 18 sts.
  17. Row 38: purl.
  18. Rows 39 to 46: work 8 rows in St st.

BO 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows for underarms. 14 sts remain. Work 10 rows in St st on these 14 sts for the upper torso and neck base. BO loosely.

Sew leg seams and body seam. Close the crotch neatly. Stuff the legs firmly enough for standing support, then stuff the body more softly, shaping a rounded tummy and lower torso. The bunny in the image has a softly weighted lower half, not a narrow tube.

Mother Bunny: Head Make 2 Side Panels

The head in the image is taller than it is wide, with a soft muzzle and a narrow chin. Two matching panels give the clean vintage silhouette.

Using ivory yarn and 2.25 mm needles, CO 10 sts.

  1. Row 1 WS: purl.
  2. Row 2 RS: k1, M1, k8, M1, k1. 12 sts.
  3. Row 3: purl.
  4. Row 4: k1, M1, k10, M1, k1. 14 sts.
  5. Row 5: purl.
  6. Row 6: k1, M1, k12, M1, k1. 16 sts.
  7. Row 7: purl.
  8. Row 8: k1, M1, k14, M1, k1. 18 sts.
  9. Row 9: purl.
  10. Row 10: k1, M1, k16, M1, k1. 20 sts.
  11. Rows 11 to 24: work 14 rows in St st.
  12. Row 25 RS: k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
  13. Row 26: purl.
  14. Row 27: k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
  15. Row 28: purl.
  16. Row 29: k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
  17. Row 30: purl.
  18. Row 31: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
  19. Row 32: purl.
  20. Row 33: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
  21. Row 34: purl.
  22. Row 35: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
  23. Row 36: purl.
  24. Row 37: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
  25. Row 38: purl.
  26. Row 39: k2tog, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
  27. Row 40: p2tog twice. 2 sts.

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Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts. Make a second panel.

Sew the curved top and back head seam first, then the front muzzle seam from forehead down to the base, leaving the lower neck open. Stuff firmly and smooth the muzzle with your fingers while filling. The face should be softly oval, with no hard corners.

Mother Bunny: Ears Make 2

Using ivory yarn and 2.25 mm needles, CO 8 sts.

  1. Row 1 WS: purl.
  2. Row 2 RS: k1, M1, k6, M1, k1. 10 sts.
  3. Row 3: purl.
  4. Row 4: k1, M1, k8, M1, k1. 12 sts.
  5. Rows 5 to 28: work 24 rows in St st.
  6. Row 29 RS: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
  7. Row 30: purl.
  8. Row 31: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
  9. Row 32: purl.
  10. Row 33: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
  11. Row 34: purl.
  12. Row 35: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
  13. Row 36: p2tog twice. 2 sts.

Cut yarn and thread through remaining sts. Sew side seams. Do not stuff. Flatten gently. The ears should drape downward from the bonnet and hang beside the face, just like the image.

Mother Bunny: Arms Make 2

Using ivory yarn and 2.25 mm needles, CO 8 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 6: work 6 rows in St st.
  2. Row 7 RS: k1, M1, k6, M1, k1. 10 sts.
  3. Rows 8 to 20: work 13 rows in St st.
  4. Row 21 RS: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
  5. Rows 22 to 28: work 7 rows in St st.
  6. BO.

Sew seams and stuff very lightly, mainly in the lower half. Flatten the top edge before attaching so the arm sits down at the side instead of sticking out.

Blue Dress

The dress is a simple sleeveless A-line garment. It should sit under the cardigan and show clearly at the skirt and chest, with a smooth soft-blue surface.

Using blue yarn and 2.5 mm needles, CO 52 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib across all rows.
  2. Row 5 RS: knit.
  3. Row 6 WS: purl.
  4. Row 7: k2tog, k48, k2tog through back loop. 50 sts.
  5. Row 8: purl.
  6. Rows 9 to 16: work 8 rows in St st.
  7. Row 17: k2tog, k46, k2tog through back loop. 48 sts.
  8. Rows 18 to 24: work 7 rows in St st.
  9. Row 25: k2tog, k44, k2tog through back loop. 46 sts.
  10. Rows 26 to 32: work 7 rows in St st.
  11. Row 33: k2tog, k42, k2tog through back loop. 44 sts.
  12. Rows 34 to 40: work 7 rows in St st.
  13. Row 41: k2tog, k40, k2tog through back loop. 42 sts.
  14. Rows 42 to 48: work 7 rows in St st.
  15. Row 49: knit 9, BO 4, knit 16, BO 4, knit 9.

Back and front are now worked separately over 9 sts, 16 sts, and 9 sts.

Left back:

  1. Row 50 WS: purl 9.
  2. Rows 51 to 58: work 8 rows in St st.
  3. BO 3 at neck edge once, then BO remaining 6.

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Front:

  1. Join yarn to center 16 sts.
  2. Row 50 WS: purl 16.
  3. Rows 51 to 54: work 4 rows in St st.
  4. Row 55 RS: k6, BO 4, k6.
  5. Work each side separately for neck.
  6. Next neck row: BO 1 at neck edge.
  7. Work 2 more rows straight.
  8. BO shoulder 5 sts.

Repeat for the second side.

Right back: work same as left back.

Sew shoulder and side seams neatly. The dress should fit close to the bunny but not tightly. Slip it on before attaching the head if you want the easiest dressing method.

Cream Cardigan

The cardigan is cropped, slightly boxy, and sits high on the waist with tiny pockets. The sleeves are short and full, ending just above the bunny’s wrists. The neck edge is soft and rounded, then tied with a narrow bow at the throat.

Using cream yarn and 2.5 mm needles, CO 48 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib.
  2. Row 5 RS: knit 11, BO 2, knit 22, BO 2, knit 11.

Work three sections separately for back and fronts.

Left front over 11 sts:

  1. Row 6 WS: purl.
  2. Rows 7 to 20: work 14 rows in St st.
  3. Row 21 RS: neck shaping, k8, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
  4. Row 22: purl.
  5. Row 23: k7, k2tog, k1. 9 sts.
  6. Row 24: purl.
  7. Row 25: k6, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
  8. Rows 26 to 28: work straight.
  9. BO shoulder 8 sts.

Back over 22 sts:

  1. Row 6 WS: purl.
  2. Rows 7 to 24: work 18 rows in St st.
  3. BO center 8 sts.
  4. Work each shoulder over 7 sts for 2 more rows.
  5. BO both shoulders.

Right front: work to mirror left front.

Cardigan Sleeves Make 2

Using cream yarn, CO 18 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib.
  2. Row 5 RS: k1, M1, k16, M1, k1. 20 sts.
  3. Rows 6 to 16: work 11 rows in St st.
  4. Row 17 RS: k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
  5. Row 18: purl.
  6. Row 19: k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
  7. BO.

Sew shoulder seams. Attach sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams. For the neck tie, make a 10 in / 25 cm two-stitch i-cord and stitch it at the neck opening so it can be tied into a bow. Add three tiny buttons down the front if desired. Embroider miniature pocket details with pale yellow and blue to echo the little decorative pockets in the image.

Bonnet

The bonnet is one of the most important details. It frames the face, sits close to the head, and has a pale cream lace edging over blue. The back is rounded, and the ties close under the chin.

Using blue yarn and 2.25 mm needles, CO 56 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 6: garter stitch.
  2. Row 7 RS: knit 18, pm, knit 20, pm, knit 18.
  3. Row 8 WS: knit.
  4. Row 9 RS: knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to end. 54 sts.
  5. Row 10: knit.
  6. Repeat Rows 9 and 10 six more times. 42 sts.
  7. Next RS row: knit 14, k2tog, knit 10, ssk, knit 14. 40 sts.
  8. Next WS row: knit.
  9. Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more. 32 sts.
  10. Work 6 rows garter.
  11. BO loosely.

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Sew the back bonnet seam lightly. Do not over-tighten. The bonnet should curve over the head and leave the face open.

Bonnet Lace Edging

Using cream lace yarn, pick up 42 sts evenly around the face edge only.

  1. Row 1 WS: purl.
  2. Row 2 RS: k1, M1, rep from k1, M1 to end. 84 sts.
  3. Row 3 WS: purl.
  4. Row 4 RS: k2tog, yo across.
  5. Row 5 WS: purl.
  6. BO very loosely knitwise.

For ties, make two 8 in / 20 cm i-cords with 2 sts each and stitch them to the lower bonnet edges.

Shoes Make 2

Using ivory yarn and 2.25 mm needles, CO 10 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 8: work 8 rows in garter stitch.
  2. Row 9: k2tog, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
  3. Row 10: knit.
  4. Row 11: k2tog, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
  5. BO.

Fold each shoe and seam the back and sole. Slip onto the bunny feet and tack in place.

Pram Basket Base

The pram needs structure so it keeps the crisp vintage shape. If you want a display finish like the image, insert thin card in the base and a hidden pipe cleaner in the handle. The knitted fabric should still remain the visible surface.

Using blue yarn and 2.5 mm needles, CO 24 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 16: work 16 rows in garter stitch.
  2. Do not BO.

This rectangle is the floor of the pram.

Pram Basket Sides

Pick up and knit stitches around the base: 24 along first long edge, 16 along short edge, 24 along second long edge, 16 along final short edge. 80 sts total. Join for working in the round on double-pointed needles if preferred, or continue flat with markers at corners.

  1. Round 1: knit all sts.
  2. Rounds 2 to 8: purl all sts.
  3. Round 9: knit all sts.
  4. Round 10: purl all sts.
  5. Round 11: knit all sts.
  6. Round 12: purl all sts.

Now shape the front and back so the pram is deeper at the hood end.

Lay the piece flat and mark one short side as the front opening and the other short side as the hood end.

Front opening edge: work 24 side sts, then BO the next 8 center sts of the front short side, then work remaining sts. 72 sts remain.

Work 8 more rounds in stockinette, keeping the bound-off opening at the front. At the hood end, add one extra short-row section to deepen the back:

  1. Knit to 10 sts before hood-center, wrap and turn.
  2. Purl to 10 sts before opposite hood-center, wrap and turn.
  3. Knit to 6 sts before previous wrap, wrap and turn.
  4. Purl to 6 sts before previous wrap, wrap and turn.
  5. Knit across all stitches, picking up wraps neatly.

BO loosely.

Pram Hood

Using blue yarn, pick up 26 sts along the back upper edge of the pram.

  1. Rows 1 to 4: garter stitch.
  2. Row 5 RS: k1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1. 28 sts.
  3. Row 6: knit.
  4. Repeat Rows 5 and 6 three more times. 34 sts.
  5. Rows 13 to 28: work 16 rows in St st, keeping first and last 2 sts in garter.
  6. Row 29 RS: k2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 32 sts.
  7. Row 30: knit.
  8. Repeat Rows 29 and 30 five more times. 22 sts.
  9. Rows 41 to 46: garter stitch.
  10. BO loosely.

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Fold the hood gently and seam the short top section so it arches over the basket. This hood should be deep, rounded, and slightly tipped forward, closely matching the image.

Pram Handle

Make a 24 in / 61 cm i-cord with 3 sts using blue yarn. Insert a pipe cleaner or soft wire if you want extra stability. Bend into a wide U shape and stitch securely into the pram sides.

Pram Wheels Make 4

Using dark charcoal yarn and 2.25 mm needles, CO 6 sts onto double-pointed needles and join.

  1. Round 1: knit.
  2. Round 2: kfb in each st. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: knit.
  4. Round 4: k1, kfb around. 18 sts.
  5. Round 5: knit.
  6. Round 6: k2, kfb around. 24 sts.
  7. Round 7: purl.
  8. Round 8: knit.
  9. Round 9: k2tog around. 12 sts.

Stuff with a tiny circle of fleece or leave flat. Draw yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Embroider a pale gray spoke star in the center of each wheel to imitate the decorative wheel detail in the image. Stitch four wheels to the lower pram frame so two show on each visible side.

Pram Mattress and Blanket

Mattress: using blue yarn, CO 18 sts and work 22 rows in garter stitch. BO.

Blanket: using cream yarn, CO 20 sts and work 24 rows in garter stitch. BO. Roll the top edge slightly before placing it over the baby bunny so it looks like a wrapped swaddle.

Baby Bunny Body

Using ivory yarn and 2.25 mm needles, CO 8 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 4: work 4 rows in St st.
  2. Row 5 RS: k1, M1, k6, M1, k1. 10 sts.
  3. Rows 6 to 12: work 7 rows in St st.
  4. Row 13 RS: k1, M1, k8, M1, k1. 12 sts.
  5. Rows 14 to 18: work 5 rows in St st.
  6. Row 19 RS: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
  7. Row 20: purl.
  8. Row 21: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
  9. Row 22: purl.
  10. Row 23: ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
  11. Row 24: purl.
  12. Row 25: k2tog three times. 3 sts.

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts. Sew seam and stuff lightly.

Baby Bunny Head Make 2

Using ivory yarn, CO 6 sts.

  1. Row 1 WS: purl.
  2. Row 2 RS: k1, M1, k4, M1, k1. 8 sts.
  3. Row 3: purl.
  4. Row 4: k1, M1, k6, M1, k1. 10 sts.
  5. Rows 5 to 12: work 8 rows in St st.
  6. Row 13 RS: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
  7. Row 14: purl.
  8. Row 15: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
  9. Row 16: purl.

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts. Make two. Sew and stuff lightly.

Baby Bunny Ears Make 2

Using ivory yarn, CO 4 sts.

  1. Row 1: purl.
  2. Row 2: k1, M1, k2, M1, k1. 6 sts.
  3. Rows 3 to 8: work 6 rows in St st.
  4. Row 9: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
  5. Row 10: purl.
  6. BO.

Sew ears and attach to head. Attach head to body. The baby bunny in the image has a sleeping face, so embroider curved closed eyes instead of open dot eyes.

Assembly of Mother Bunny and Dressing

Slip the dress onto the body first. Sew the body opening closed if needed. Attach the head firmly to the neck with matching yarn, adding an extra round of stitching so the head remains upright.

Sew the arms to the upper body just below the neckline. Angle them slightly downward and forward. This detail matters. In the image, the arms are small, soft, and relaxed rather than wide apart.

Place the ears on the head so they emerge slightly behind the crown line and hang down the sides. Put the bonnet on and tie gently beneath the chin. The lace edging should frame the face without covering the eyes.

Dress the bunny in the cardigan. Tie the neck cord into a small soft bow. Add the shoes to the feet and tack them in place with a few hidden stitches.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Embroider the eyes with tiny black vertical seed stitches placed low on the face and set fairly wide apart. The nose is a small stitched triangle with a short vertical line beneath it. Keep the mouth minimal. Too much embroidery will lose the gentle antique look.

Very lightly indent the eye area with a thread pass if desired. Shape the muzzle by squeezing it between your fingers after stuffing. Keep the cheeks smooth and the forehead rounded. The face should look calm, simple, and slightly wistful.

Place the mattress inside the pram, then the baby bunny, then fold the cream blanket over the lower body. Let one ear and the top of the head remain visible. Adjust the pram handle angle so it leans naturally beside the standing bunny.

Care Notes

  • Display pieces stay neatest when kept out of direct sunlight.
  • Do not hang the bunny by the ears or bonnet ties.
  • If the set is for decor rather than play, use firmer stuffing and tack clothing in place.
  • If giving as a gift for gentle play, secure all small parts firmly and omit hard supports.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head stuffed firmly and smoothly
  • Ears attached evenly
  • Dress centered and hanging straight
  • Cardigan tied neatly at the neck
  • Bonnet lace balanced on both sides
  • Pram hood curved and stable
  • Four wheels attached level
  • Baby bunny wrapped and positioned naturally

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean gently with a barely damp cloth and mild wool wash. Do not soak if your pram contains card or wire supports. Reshape with your hands and dry flat away from heat. For long-term storage, wrap in acid-free tissue and keep in a breathable cotton bag.

If the bonnet lace or cardigan edges lose shape, steam lightly from a distance and pat back into place without pressing hard. Store the set flat or upright with support under the pram so the wheels and handle keep their form.

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