Knitting Tutorial: Cottagecore Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This sweet cottage-style bunny is designed with a soft heirloom look, a floral dress, a matching bonnet, tiny Mary Jane shoes, a crossbody flower bag, a knitted squirrel friend, a miniature watering can, and a small folded cloth. It is perfect for nursery decor, handmade gifts, collectible toy displays, and shoppers looking for a knitted bunny doll pattern, bunny softie, cottagecore toy, handmade nursery gift, or artisan stuffed animal design to make or sell as a finished item.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern is written to recreate the full knitted scene shown in the image: the standing bunny doll, the floral dress with lace-style edging, the bonnet, shoes, shoulder bag, squirrel companion, and the small tabletop accessories.

The shaping is gentle and rounded rather than cartoonish. The head is large but not oversized, the body is compact, the arms are long and relaxed, and the legs are straight with a soft stuffed structure so the finished bunny can sit naturally on an edge.

The bunny in the image has a calm, minimal face. The nose and mouth are stitched in dark brown, the eyes are small black points placed wide apart, and the ears hang low from the sides of the head under the bonnet.

The dress is the visual focus. It uses an ivory base with scattered pink floral motifs, puffed sleeves, a gathered skirt, and decorative frilled hems. The outfit is soft, old-fashioned, and very neat.

The bonnet is close-fitting and tied under the chin. The bag is small and cream colored with a pink flower detail. The squirrel is proportionally much smaller than the bunny and wears a pale blue sweater while holding an acorn.

Skill Level

Advanced beginner to intermediate.

• Beginner-friendly skills: knit, purl, increases, decreases, mattress stitch, simple seaming, stuffing, and basic embroidery.
• Intermediate skills: short sections worked flat and in the round, color placement for floral motifs, picked-up stitches, tiny accessories, and neat finishing.

Finished Sizes

• Bunny: approximately 11 in tall seated on an edge, about 13 in from shoe sole to top of bonnet when legs are extended.
• Squirrel: approximately 4 in tall.
• Watering can: approximately 2 in wide including handle and spout.
• Folded cloth: approximately 1.5 in by 1 in.
• Bag: approximately 1.5 in wide.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: sport or light DK weight in warm ivory.
• Dress and bonnet base: sport or light DK in ivory.
• Dress motif color: dusty pink.
• Leaf accent color: pale sage or muted green.
• Shoe color: soft rose pink.
• Bag color: beige or oatmeal.
• Bag flower: pink and pale yellow.
• Squirrel yarn: warm medium brown, cream, and pale blue.
• Watering can yarn: pale gray.
• Cloth yarn: pale mint and cream.
• Safety eyes or black embroidery thread: 4 mm eyes or equivalent embroidered dots.
• Dark brown embroidery thread: for nose and mouth.
• Toy stuffing.
• Fine sewing thread and needle.
• Knitting needles: 2.25 mm and 2.75 mm double-pointed needles or preferred needles for small circumference knitting.
• Straight or circular needles: 2.75 mm for flat sections.
• Stitch markers, tapestry needle, small scissors.

Gauge

Gauge matters most for proportion.

• Stockinette on 2.75 mm needles: 28 sts and 38 rows = 4 in.
• Small accessories on 2.25 mm needles: 31 sts and 42 rows = 4 in.

If your knitting is loose, size down. The fabric should be firm enough that stuffing does not show through.

Abbreviations

• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• dec = decrease
• dpn = double-pointed needles
• inc = increase by knitting into front and back of same stitch
• k = knit
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• p = purl
• pm = place marker
• rep = repeat
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• WS = wrong side

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Color Motif Note for Dress and Bonnet

The floral effect in the image is delicate, not dense. Instead of heavy stranded knitting, work tiny scattered motifs using duplicate stitch after the garment is finished, or use very small intarsia-style spots if you prefer.

For the closest visual result, knit the dress and bonnet in ivory first, then add small dusty pink rose clusters and a few pale green accent stitches afterward. This keeps the fabric smooth and the flowers soft.

• Each small flower cluster can be made over a visual area of about 3 stitches wide and 3 rows tall.
• Use 3 to 5 pink duplicate stitches per flower.
• Add 1 or 2 tiny green stitches below or beside selected flowers.
• Keep flowers irregularly spaced.

Bunny Legs Make 2

Work from sole upward in pink, then change to ivory at the ankle. Stuff firmly at the foot and lightly through the leg.

Sole and Shoe

1. Using pink and 2.25 mm dpns, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: p.
3. Row 2 RS: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: p.
5. Row 4: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
6. Row 5: p.
7. Distribute sts for working in the round.
8. Rnd 1: kfb, k10, kfb. 14 sts.
9. Rnd 2: k.
10. Rnd 3: kfb, k12, kfb. 16 sts.
11. Rnd 4: k.
12. Rnd 5: kfb, k14, kfb. 18 sts.
13. Rnds 6 to 8: k.

Shape the shoe top.

1. Rnd 9: k6, k2tog, k2tog, k6. 16 sts.
2. Rnd 10: k5, k2tog, k2tog, k5. 14 sts.
3. Rnd 11: k4, k2tog, k2tog, k4. 12 sts.
4. Rnd 12: p all sts for a little sole edge.
5. Rnd 13: k.
6. Rnd 14: k3, k2tog, k2tog, k3. 10 sts.
7. Rnd 15: k.

To form the Mary Jane shoe shape, work 2 more rnds in pink. Stuff the foot now.

1. Rnd 16: k.
2. Rnd 17: k.

Leg

1. Change to ivory.
2. Rnd 18: knit through back loop all sts. 10 sts.
3. Rnd 19: kfb in each st. 20 sts.
4. Rnds 20 to 34: k.
5. Rnd 35: k2tog around. 10 sts.
6. Rnd 36: k.
7. Rnd 37: kfb around. 20 sts.
8. Rnds 38 to 44: k.

The slight narrowing and widening helps the lower leg stay slim while the upper leg joins smoothly into the body.

BO the first leg. Leave the second leg on the needle.

Bunny Body

The body is worked upward from the joined legs. It is softly pear-shaped with a rounded lower belly and a narrower upper chest.

1. With second leg on needle, knit across 20 sts.
2. CO 4 sts loosely for crotch bridge.
3. Knit across 20 sts of first leg.
4. CO 4 sts. Place marker for beginning of rnd. 48 sts.

Lower Body

1. Rnd 1: k all sts, working evenly over join points.
2. Rnd 2: k.
3. Rnd 3: kfb, k22, kfb, kfb, k22, kfb. 52 sts.
4. Rnds 4 to 8: k.
5. Rnd 9: kfb, k24, kfb, kfb, k24, kfb. 56 sts.
6. Rnds 10 to 16: k.

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Waist and Chest

1. Rnd 17: k12, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k12, k2tog. 52 sts.
2. Rnd 18: k.
3. Rnd 19: k11, k2tog, k11, k2tog, k11, k2tog, k11, k2tog. 48 sts.
4. Rnds 20 to 22: k.
5. Rnd 23: k10, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k10, k2tog. 44 sts.
6. Rnds 24 to 28: k.
7. Rnd 29: k9, k2tog, k9, k2tog, k9, k2tog, k9, k2tog. 40 sts.
8. Rnds 30 to 33: k.

Stuff the legs and lower body firmly, then stuff the upper body more lightly so it remains cuddly rather than rigid.

Shoulder Section

1. Rnd 34: k8, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k8, k2tog. 36 sts.
2. Rnds 35 to 37: k.
3. Rnd 38: k.

Leave a long tail if you prefer to sew the head on later, or keep stitches live and join directly. For the neatest shaping that matches the image, sewing the head on separately gives better control of the neck angle.

BO all sts neatly.

Bunny Arms Make 2

The arms are long, slim, and slightly tapered with rounded ends. They should reach to about the lower dress line when sewn on.

1. Using ivory and 2.25 mm dpns, CO 8 sts.
2. Join in the round.
3. Rnd 1: kfb in each st. 16 sts.
4. Rnds 2 to 5: k.
5. Rnd 6: k2tog around. 8 sts.
6. Rnd 7: kfb in each st. 16 sts.
7. Rnds 8 to 24: k.
8. Rnd 25: k6, k2tog, k6, k2tog. 14 sts.
9. Rnds 26 to 28: k.
10. Rnd 29: k5, k2tog, k5, k2tog. 12 sts.
11. Rnd 30: k.
12. Rnd 31: k4, k2tog, k4, k2tog. 10 sts.
13. Rnds 32 to 34: k.

Stuff the hand area firmly and the upper arm only lightly. Flatten the top opening and BO with a three-needle style closure or sew shut later.

Bunny Head

The head is large, softly oval, and slightly deeper from front to back than side to side. Work from the nose area upward, stuffing as you go.

1. Using ivory and 2.25 mm dpns, CO 8 sts.
2. Join in the round.
3. Rnd 1: kfb around. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 2: k.
5. Rnd 3: kfb around. 32 sts.
6. Rnd 4: k.
7. Rnd 5: k1, kfb around. 48 sts.
8. Rnd 6: k.
9. Rnd 7: k2, kfb around. 64 sts.
10. Rnds 8 to 20: k.

Shape the crown.

1. Rnd 21: k6, k2tog around. 56 sts.
2. Rnd 22: k.
3. Rnd 23: k5, k2tog around. 48 sts.
4. Rnd 24: k.
5. Rnd 25: k4, k2tog around. 40 sts.
6. Rnd 26: k.
7. Rnd 27: k3, k2tog around. 32 sts.

Stuff firmly and evenly, paying extra attention to the muzzle area so the face stays smooth.

1. Rnd 28: k2, k2tog around. 24 sts.
2. Rnd 29: k1, k2tog around. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 30: k2tog around. 8 sts.
4. Break yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight.

Use the cast-on tail at the nose end to lightly sculpt the face. Make one tiny horizontal stitch across the lower center to create the subtle muzzle dip seen in the photo.

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Bunny Ears Make 2

The ears are long, narrow, and softly drooping. They are not wired and should hang naturally.

1. Using ivory and 2.75 mm needles, CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1 RS: k.
3. Row 2 WS: p.
4. Row 3: kfb, k4, kfb. 8 sts.
5. Row 4: p.
6. Row 5: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
7. Row 6: p.
8. Row 7: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
9. Rows 8 to 24: work in stockinette, beginning with a purl row on WS.
10. Row 25: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
11. Row 26: p.
12. Row 27: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
13. Row 28: p.
14. Row 29: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
15. Row 30: p.
16. Row 31: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
17. Row 32: p.
18. Row 33: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
19. Row 34: p2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off. Make a second ear. Sew a very light center fold near the base only. Do not stuff.

Tail

1. Using ivory and 2.25 mm dpns, CO 6 sts.
2. Join and knit 1 rnd.
3. Rnd 2: kfb around. 12 sts.
4. Rnds 3 to 5: k.
5. Rnd 6: k2tog around. 6 sts.
6. Stuff lightly.
7. Cut yarn and gather closed.

Dress

The dress is worked in separate sections for the best fit: bodice, sleeves, then skirt picked up from the waist edge. The image shows a high-waisted bodice, tiny puff sleeves, and a full skirt with frilled lace-style trims.

Bodice

1. Using ivory and 2.75 mm needles, CO 40 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: work in k1, p1 rib.
3. Row 5 RS: k.
4. Row 6 WS: p.
5. Row 7: k6, CO 4, k20, CO 4, k6. 48 sts.

The 4-stitch gaps create the underarm spaces.

1. Row 8: p.
2. Row 9: k.
3. Row 10: p.
4. Row 11: k6, BO 8, k20, BO 8, k6. 32 sts.

Now work front and back joined again with sleeve openings left free.

1. Rows 12 to 18: stockinette.
2. Row 19 RS eyelet waist row: k1, yo, k2tog, rep across row.
3. Row 20 WS: p.
4. Row 21 RS: kfb across all sts. 64 sts.

This increase creates the gathered skirt fullness visible in the image.

Skirt

1. Rows 22 to 28: stockinette.
2. On Rows 24, 26, and 28, add scattered pink floral motifs later with duplicate stitch rather than knitting colorwork now.
3. Row 29 RS: k all sts.
4. Row 30 WS: p all sts.
5. Row 31 RS frill increase: kfb across. 128 sts.
6. Row 32 WS: p.
7. Row 33 RS: k.
8. BO loosely on WS purlwise.

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Sleeves Make 2

Pick up 20 sts around one armhole using ivory and 2.75 mm dpns or small circular.

1. Rnd 1: p.
2. Rnd 2: k.
3. Rnd 3: k.
4. Rnd 4: k2tog around. 10 sts.
5. Rnd 5: p.
6. Rnd 6: k.
7. Rnd 7: kfb around. 20 sts.
8. Rnd 8: p.
9. BO loosely knitwise.

The decrease and re-increase create the slight puff shape seen at the sleeve edge. Repeat for second sleeve.

Dress Lace-Style Trims

Since only knitted construction is requested, the lace look is created with a tiny picot-style knitted edging worked directly onto hems.

For the skirt lower trim, pick up 64 sts just above the frill line using ivory.

1. Row 1 WS: p.
2. Row 2 RS: k2tog, yo across.
3. Row 3 WS: p.
4. BO loosely knitwise.

Repeat a smaller version at the sleeve edges if desired by picking up 10 sts and working the same 3-row trim.

Floral Decoration Placement

After dress construction, add duplicate stitch motifs. The photo shows concentrated flowers on the bodice center and more scattered flowers on the skirt.

• Add 5 to 7 small pink flower clusters across the bodice front.
• Add 10 to 14 clusters around the skirt, spaced unevenly.
• Keep the top skirt area denser than the bottom frill.
• Use green only sparingly.

Bonnet

The bonnet fits close to the head and frames the face. It has the same floral look as the dress and ties under the chin.

1. Using ivory and 2.75 mm needles, CO 54 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib.
3. Rows 5 to 18: stockinette.

Shape the back crown.

1. Row 19 RS: k16, k2tog, k18, ssk, k16. 52 sts.
2. Row 20 WS: p.
3. Row 21: k15, k2tog, k18, ssk, k15. 50 sts.
4. Row 22: p.
5. Continue in this manner, decreasing 1 st on each side of the center 18 sts every RS row, until 38 sts remain.
6. Work 1 WS row.
7. Next RS: k10, BO 18, k10.

Join the side edges at the back with mattress stitch. Pick up 40 sts around the face opening.

1. Face edge Row 1 WS: p.
2. Row 2 RS: k.
3. Row 3 WS: p.
4. Row 4 RS: kfb across. 80 sts.
5. Row 5 WS: p.
6. BO loosely knitwise on RS.

This gives the soft ruffled brim visible in the image.

Add duplicate stitch flowers similarly to the dress, concentrating a few clusters over the crown and near the side flaps.

Bonnet Ties Make 2

1. Using ivory and 2.25 mm needles, CO 3 sts.
2. Knit i-cord for 8 in.
3. BO.

Sew one tie to each lower bonnet side.

Mary Jane Shoe Straps Make 2

The pink shoes in the image show a delicate top strap with a tiny side button effect.

1. Using pink and 2.25 mm needles, CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1: k.
3. BO all sts.

Sew one strap over each shoe top, angling very slightly upward toward the outer side. Add a tiny knot stitch or pale button bead at the outer side if desired.

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Crossbody Bag

Bag Body

1. Using beige and 2.25 mm needles, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 12: stockinette, starting with a WS purl row.
3. Row 13 RS: k2tog, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
4. Row 14: p.
5. Row 15: k2tog, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
6. Row 16: p.
7. Row 17: k2tog, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
8. BO.

Make a second identical piece. Sew sides and bottom together, leaving top open.

Bag Strap

1. Using beige, CO 3 sts.
2. Work i-cord for 9 in.
3. BO.

Sew to each upper side of the bag. The strap should sit diagonally across the bunny body from shoulder to opposite hip.

Bag Flower Applique

1. Using pink, CO 18 sts.
2. BO all sts.
3. Roll into a flat spiral flower and stitch to the bag front.
4. Add a tiny yellow center stitch.

Squirrel Companion

The squirrel is compact and plump, standing upright with a large tail curving behind. Its face is simple and sweet to match the bunny style.

Legs and Body

1. Using brown and 2.25 mm dpns, CO 6 sts for first leg.
2. Join and knit 6 rnds.
3. BO first leg.
4. Make second leg the same but do not BO.
5. Join legs with 2 CO sts between them front and back. 16 sts total.
6. Rnd 1: k.
7. Rnd 2: kfb every 4th st. 20 sts.
8. Rnds 3 to 8: k.
9. Change front center 6 sts to cream for belly if using intarsia in the round, or duplicate stitch afterward.
10. Rnd 9: k.
11. Rnd 10: k2tog at each side seam. 18 sts.
12. Rnds 11 to 14: k.
13. Rnd 15: k2tog around. 9 sts.

Stuff body.

Head

1. Rnd 16: kfb around. 18 sts.
2. Rnds 17 to 22: k.
3. Rnd 23: k1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
4. Rnd 24: k.
5. Rnd 25: k2tog around. 6 sts.
6. Stuff and gather closed.

Arms Make 2

1. Using brown, CO 5 sts.
2. Join and knit 6 rnds.
3. BO.

Ears Make 2

1. Using brown, CO 4 sts.
2. Row 1: k.
3. Row 2: p.
4. Row 3: k2tog, k2tog. 2 sts.
5. Row 4: p2tog. 1 st.

Tail

1. Using brown, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: stockinette.
3. Row 5: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
4. Rows 6 to 16: stockinette.
5. Row 17: k2tog, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
6. Rows 18 to 22: stockinette.
7. Row 23: k2tog, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
8. Row 24: p.
9. Row 25: k2tog, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
10. Row 26: p.
11. Row 27: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
12. Row 28: p2tog. 1 st.

Sew the tail along the back with a curved shape so it rises behind the squirrel.

Sweater

1. Using pale blue and 2.25 mm needles, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 3: k1, p1 rib.
3. Rows 4 to 8: stockinette.
4. Row 9: k4, BO 2, k6, BO 2, k4.
5. Row 10: p.
6. Rows 11 to 13: stockinette.
7. BO.

Sew side seam under arms and fit onto squirrel torso.

Acorn

1. Using brown, CO 4 sts.
2. Join and knit 1 rnd.
3. Rnd 2: kfb around. 8 sts.
4. Rnds 3 and 4: k.
5. Rnd 5: k2tog around. 4 sts.
6. Stuff lightly and close.

Add a tiny darker brown cap stitch at the top and sew into squirrel paws.

Watering Can

Main Body

1. Using pale gray and 2.25 mm dpns, CO 6 sts.
2. Join and kfb around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 2: k.
4. Rnd 3: k1, kfb around. 18 sts.
5. Rnds 4 to 8: k.
6. Rnd 9: k1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
7. Rnd 10: k.
8. Rnd 11: k2tog around. 6 sts.
9. Stuff lightly and close.

Spout

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Work i-cord for 2.5 in.
3. On final row, k2tog twice. 2 sts.
4. Next row: k2tog. 1 st.

Sew to front at an upward angle.

Handle

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Work i-cord for 3 in.
3. BO.

Sew from one upper side of can to the other in a tall arch.

Folded Cloth

1. Using pale mint and 2.25 mm needles, CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 10: garter stitch.
3. Change to cream and knit 2 rows.
4. BO.

Fold twice into a small rectangle and tack the fold with one hidden stitch.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the head to the body with a very slight forward tilt. Attach the arms just below the neck so they hang straight down. Sew the ears to the head sides, starting slightly behind the eye line, then place the bonnet over them.

Embroider the eyes as tiny black dots or insert 4 mm black safety eyes. Place them wide apart and slightly below the head midpoint. Embroider a small brown Y-shaped nose and mouth centered low on the face. Sew on the tail, dress, shoe straps, bag, squirrel details, and accessories.

Care Notes

• Spot clean whenever possible.
• Handle the floral duplicate stitches gently.
• Do not wring or twist.
• Reshape while damp and air dry flat.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and secure.
• Ears even in length and angle.
• Eyes placed symmetrically.
• Dress hem level all around.
• Bonnet ties matched.
• Bag strap sits diagonally.
• Squirrel tail curved neatly behind body.
• All yarn tails woven in firmly.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the finished toys out of direct sun to protect the soft pink and blue shades. Store in a dry area and avoid heavy pressure on the face and bonnet brim. If packed away, wrap each piece in clean tissue and keep accessories in a separate small pouch so nothing stretches or snags.