Knitting Tutorial: Crimson Princess Doll – Free Knitting Pattern

This charming heirloom-style knitted doll is designed to closely recreate the romantic garden look shown in the photo, with a deep crimson dress, warm cream apron, lace-trimmed layers, floral embellishments, a brimmed hat, tiny handbag, knitted shoes, and sweet vintage styling. It is a lovely choice for knitters who enjoy collectible dolls, handmade gift ideas, cottagecore decor, artisan soft toys, and boutique-style knitted dolls that look beautiful enough for display, gifting, or even shoppers searching for a handmade doll pattern to knit and sell as a finished item.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

About This Pattern

This pattern is written in US English and is worked mostly flat on straight needles, with small pieces sewn together neatly at the end. The shaping has been carefully planned to match the proportions in the photo: a large rounded head, narrow neck, compact torso, softly tapered arms, short dangling legs, layered skirt volume, and a medium-wide hat that frames the face.

The doll in the image has a decorative display finish rather than a child-rough-play construction. Because of that, the pattern includes several embroidery and trim steps. Take your time with finishing. The knitting itself is beginner-friendly to intermediate, but the final result depends heavily on tidy assembly and accurate placement.

Finished Size

• Doll height: about 14 inches from hat brim to shoes, about 12 inches without hat
• Head height: about 4 1/4 inches
• Body height from neck to base: about 3 3/4 inches
• Leg length: about 2 inches
• Arm length: about 2 1/2 inches
• Hat diameter: about 5 1/4 inches across brim

Materials

• DK weight yarn in skin, dark gray, crimson red, soft gold, cream, dusty pink, rose pink, olive green, and dark wine
• Light lace trim or a knitted eyelet lace substitute
• Polyester toy stuffing
• Pair of 3.0 mm knitting needles
• Set of double-point needles in 3.0 mm for tiny i-cords and small circular knitting if preferred
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Black embroidery floss for eyes
• Soft pink pencil blush or textile blush for cheeks
• Thin cardboard circle optional for stabilizing the hat brim
• Thin wire optional for the handbag handle only if making a display doll
• Small ribbon bows or knitted bow substitutes

Yarn Colors Used in This Pattern

• A: Skin tone
• B: Dark gray for hair
• C: Crimson red for dress, shoes, hat accents, and bag
• D: Soft gold for apron, hat, trim details
• E: Cream for underskirt, cuffs, and lace accents
• F: Dusty pink for flowers
• G: Rose pink for flower accents
• H: Olive green for leaves and stems
• I: Deep burgundy for center flower and hat flower accents

Gauge

26 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on 3.0 mm needles after light blocking.

Gauge matters most for the head, body, and dress proportions. If your fabric feels loose, go down a needle size. The doll in the image has a firm, smooth fabric with very little stuffing show-through.

Abbreviations

• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• m1 = make 1 stitch
• p = purl
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• WS = wrong side

General Notes

• The head, body, arms, and legs are knitted flat and seamed.
• The hair is made from knitted strands and attached in sections for the exact soft wavy look.
• The dress is made in separate visible layers so the apron and overskirt match the image.
• The facial features are minimal. Keep them small and low contrast.
• Stuff firmly but not hard. The photographed doll has a smooth sculpted look, not a squishy toy look.

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Head

Using color A, CO 34 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 36 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 38 sts.
5. Rows 5 to 11: Beginning with a purl row, work 7 rows in stockinette.
6. Row 12: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 40 sts.
7. Rows 13 to 23: Work 11 rows in stockinette.
8. Row 24: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 38 sts.
9. Row 25: Purl.
10. Row 26: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 36 sts.
11. Row 27: Purl.
12. Row 28: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 34 sts.
13. Rows 29 to 33: Work 5 rows in stockinette.
14. Row 34: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 32 sts.
15. Row 35: Purl.
16. Row 36: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 30 sts.
17. Row 37: Purl.
18. Row 38: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 28 sts.
19. BO loosely.

Sew the side seams to form a rounded head shape. Gather the top edge lightly, then gather the bottom edge only slightly. Stuff very firmly. Shape the cheeks with your fingers while filling so the face stays broad and softly oval, not ball-shaped.

The head in the image is slightly wider than it is tall once the hair is attached. Do not overstuff the chin area. Keep the lower face soft so the embroidered mouth sits naturally.

Neck Support

Using color A, CO 12 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 10: Work in stockinette, slipping the first stitch of every row.
2. BO.

Roll this strip into a firm tube and sew. This tube sits inside the neck area and helps hold the head upright because the hat and hair add weight.

Body

Using color A, CO 24 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work 4 rows stockinette.
2. Row 5: K2, m1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2. 26 sts.
3. Row 6: Purl.
4. Row 7: K2, m1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2. 28 sts.
5. Rows 8 to 13: Work 6 rows stockinette.
6. Row 14: K2, m1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2. 30 sts.
7. Rows 15 to 19: Work 5 rows stockinette.
8. Row 20: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. 28 sts.
9. Row 21: Purl.
10. Row 22: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. 26 sts.
11. Rows 23 to 29: Work 7 rows stockinette.
12. BO.

Sew into a tube. Stuff the lower half firmly and the upper chest moderately. Insert the neck support tube centrally into the upper body before closing. The body should be compact and slightly pear-shaped under the dress.

Legs Make 2

Start with color C for shoes. CO 10 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work 4 rows stockinette.
2. Row 5: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 12 sts.
3. Row 6: Purl.
4. Rows 7 to 8: Work 2 rows stockinette.
5. Change to color A.
6. Rows 9 to 18: Work 10 rows stockinette.
7. Row 19: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
8. Row 20: Purl.
9. BO.

Sew each leg into a narrow tube. Stuff lightly. Flatten the shoe section slightly so each shoe faces forward. Leave the top unstuffed for easier sewing. The legs in the image are short and sit close together beneath a full skirt.

For the little Mary Jane look, embroider a tiny horizontal strap in cream or sew a narrow knitted strip across the front of each shoe.

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Arms Make 2

Using color A, CO 12 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 3: Work stockinette.
2. Row 4: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
3. Rows 5 to 8: Work stockinette.
4. Change to color E.
5. Row 9: Purl.
6. Row 10: K.
7. Row 11: Purl.
8. Change to color C.
9. Row 12: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 12 sts.
10. Rows 13 to 18: Work stockinette.
11. Row 19: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 14 sts.
12. Rows 20 to 24: Work stockinette.
13. BO.

Sew and stuff the hand section lightly and the sleeve section moderately. Shape the hand end into a soft mitten. The upper sleeve should look a little puffed, matching the image.

Hair Base Cap

Using color B, CO 30 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work stockinette.
2. Row 5: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 32 sts.
3. Row 6: Purl.
4. Row 7: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 34 sts.
5. Rows 8 to 14: Work stockinette.
6. Row 15: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 32 sts.
7. Row 16: Purl.
8. Row 17: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 30 sts.
9. BO.

Sew into a cap and fit it over the upper back half of the head only. This cap anchors the hair sections and hides attachment stitches.

Front Fringe Bangs

Using color B, make 7 narrow strands. Each strand is worked as follows.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 10: Work i-cord or k every row with yarn carried tightly across the back.
3. BO.

Make two extra side bangs at 12 rows each. Sew the 7 short strands across the forehead from crown to brow line. Place the center strand first, then add three on each side. Add the two longer side strands beside the temples.

The bangs in the image are blunt but slightly separated, with visible knit texture. Do not create a heavy solid fringe. A little spacing looks more realistic.

Side Curls Make 4

Using color B, CO 4 sts for each curl.

1. Rows 1 to 18: K every row.
2. BO.

Steam very lightly, then wrap around a pencil while warm to create a gentle curve. Sew two curls on each side of the face, layered so they fall to chest level. The image shows soft gray curls that are not tight ringlets, so keep the curve relaxed.

Back Hair Strands Make 10

Using color B, CO 4 sts for each strand.

1. Rows 1 to 20: K every row.
2. BO.

Sew these from crown downward over the cap, overlapping slightly. Arrange them so the back looks full under the hat but not bulky. The hair should end just above the waistline.

Underskirt

Using color E, CO 70 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: K1, p1 rib.
2. Rows 5 to 22: Work stockinette.
3. Row 23: *K2tog, yo; rep from * across to last 0 sts.
4. Row 24: Purl all sts, purling each yo normally.
5. Rows 25 to 28: Work stockinette.
6. BO loosely.

This layer peeks below the dress and supports the lace hem. Gather the cast-on edge to fit the body waist. Sew in place around the lower torso.

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Main Dress Skirt

Using color C, CO 82 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 6: Work stockinette.
2. Row 7: K2, k2tog across to last 1 st, k1. 62 sts.
3. Row 8: Purl.
4. Rows 9 to 14: Work stockinette.
5. Row 15: K1, *k2tog, k4; rep from * to last 1 st, k1. 52 sts.
6. Row 16: Purl.
7. Rows 17 to 22: Work stockinette.
8. Row 23: K1, *k2tog, k3; rep from * to last 1 st, k1. 42 sts.
9. Row 24: Purl.
10. Rows 25 to 28: Work stockinette.
11. BO loosely.

Sew the back seam. Gather the upper edge slightly if needed and sew to the body over the underskirt. The skirt should be full and bell-shaped, with enough room for the apron panel to sit flat in the front.

Bodice Front Panel

Using color D, CO 14 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 2: Stockinette.
2. Row 3: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 16 sts.
3. Row 4: Purl.
4. Rows 5 to 10: Stockinette.
5. Row 11: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 18 sts.
6. Rows 12 to 18: Stockinette.
7. Row 19: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
8. Rows 20 to 22: Stockinette.
9. BO.

Sew this to the upper front body. Add narrow cream lace or embroidered trim down both long sides. This creates the gold front insert seen on the dress.

Bodice Side Panels Make 2

Using color C, CO 8 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 18: Work stockinette.
2. BO.

Sew one on each side of the gold front panel, then continue around the back with crimson fabric or simply stretch the skirt top upward and stitch in place. The photo shows a fitted upper bodice with red framing and a central gold section.

Shoulder Straps

Using color C, make 2 strips.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 12: K every row.
3. BO.

Sew each strip from top front bodice to back shoulder. Cross them slightly inward as shown in the image so they frame the neckline and create the princess-style bodice look.

Back Neck Tie

Using color C, CO 2 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 18: Work i-cord.
2. BO.

Fold around the neck and tie or sew into a neat bow at the front neck. In the picture, a narrow red tie sits snugly at the neck.

Sleeves Make 2

Using color C, CO 20 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 5: Work stockinette.
2. Row 6: *K2tog; rep across. 10 sts.
3. Row 7: Purl.
4. Rows 8 to 12: Stockinette.
5. BO.

Sew into short puff sleeves and attach over the arm tops. Add cream lace at the lower edge. Then attach the completed arms under the sleeve puffs. The sleeve should sit slightly dropped and rounded.

Cuffs Make 2

Using color E, CO 16 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 3: K every row.
2. BO loosely.

Gather each strip and sew around the wrist area so it flares. Add a tiny eyelet edge or lace trim if desired. The cuffs in the image are delicate, white, and slightly ruffled.

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Apron Main Panel

Using color D, CO 26 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Garter stitch.
2. Rows 5 to 26: Work stockinette.
3. Row 27: *K2tog, yo; rep across.
4. Row 28: Purl.
5. Rows 29 to 32: Stockinette.
6. BO.

Sew cream lace around both sides and the lower edge. The apron in the image is a warm gold shade with white trim and floral embroidery near the hem.

Apron Waistband and Ties

Using color D, CO 6 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 24: K every row.
2. BO.

Sew the center of this strip to the top of the apron panel, leaving enough length free on both ends to wrap toward the back. The tie may be sewn closed or finished as a small back bow.

Apron Floral Embroidery

Using colors F, G, H, and I, embroider 5 flowers across the lower front of the apron.

• Center flower: 1 dark burgundy flower with cream center
• Left flower: dusty pink rose
• Right flower: dusty pink rose
• Far left small bud: pale pink
• Far right small bud: pale pink
• Leaves: olive green in paired lazy-daisy stitches

Keep the embroidery low on the panel. The flowers in the photo are aligned horizontally and spaced evenly, with the center blossom being the darkest and most prominent.

Hem Butterflies and Dress Appliqué

The lower crimson skirt in the image includes textured floral and bow details. You can recreate this look with knitted appliqué pieces.

Butterfly Wings Make 4 Pairs

Using color D, CO 6 sts.

1. Row 1: K.
2. Row 2: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 8 sts.
3. Row 3: K.
4. Row 4: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 10 sts.
5. Row 5: K.
6. Row 6: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
7. Row 7: K.
8. Row 8: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
9. BO.

Make two pieces for each butterfly and join them at the center with a few stitches. Sew two butterflies near the lower front skirt sides, matching the photo placement.

Small Skirt Flowers

Make 6 tiny flowers by knitting i-cord spirals or using embroidered bullion-style loops. Place them near the butterflies and near the hem corners.

Tiny Bows

Using color C, make 5 bows.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K every row.
3. BO.

Wrap the center of each strip tightly with yarn to form a bow. Sew 2 on the skirt hem corners, 2 on the bodice front panel, and 1 at the waist center. Add another tiny bow at the neckline if desired.

Hat Crown

Using color D, CO 48 sts.

1. Join if working in the round, or work flat and seam later.
2. Rows 1 to 10: Work stockinette.
3. Row 11: *K6, k2tog; rep around. 42 sts.
4. Rows 12 to 14: Stockinette.
5. Row 15: *K5, k2tog; rep around. 36 sts.
6. Rows 16 to 18: Stockinette.
7. Row 19: *K4, k2tog; rep around. 30 sts.
8. Rows 20 to 22: Stockinette.
9. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight.

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If worked flat, use the same decrease sequence across the row and seam at the end. Stuff the crown very lightly or leave unstuffed. The hat in the image is soft and wearable on the doll, not rigid.

Hat Brim

Using color D, CO 18 sts.

1. Row 1: K.
2. Row 2: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 20 sts.
3. Row 3: K.
4. Continue in this manner, increasing 2 sts every even row, until you have 42 sts.
5. Work 4 rows even in garter stitch.
6. BO loosely.

Make 2 identical brim pieces. Sew together around the outer edge with a cardboard insert if desired, then attach the inner opening around the hat crown base. Shape so the front brim dips slightly and the back lifts slightly. This matches the soft bonnet-hat silhouette in the image.

Hat Inner Lining

Using color I or color C, CO and work a simple strip 6 sts wide and 20 rows long in stockinette. Sew inside the crown front so the brim reveals a darker inner tone, similar to the deep red underside shown in the photo.

Hat Flowers

Make 3 small flowers and 1 bud for the right side of the hat.

Small Flower Make 3

Using colors D, F, or I, CO 20 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 2: K every row.
2. BO.

Roll each strip into a rosette and sew. Make one gold flower, one deep burgundy flower, and one pale pink flower. Add two green leaves behind the cluster.

Leaves Make 4

Using color H, CO 3 sts.

1. Row 1: K.
2. Row 2: K1, m1, k1. 4 sts.
3. Row 3: K.
4. Row 4: K1, m1, k to last 1 st, m1, k1. 6 sts.
5. Row 5: K.
6. Row 6: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
7. Row 7: K.
8. Row 8: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
9. BO.

Sew the floral cluster on the doll’s right side of the hat brim, close to the hairline.

Handbag

Using color C, CO 12 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 10: Work stockinette.
2. BO.

Fold in half and sew side seams to make a tiny bag. For the flap effect, gather the upper edge slightly. Embroider or sew a pink flower on the front.

Handbag Handle

Using color D, CO 3 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 16: K every row.
2. BO.

Sew from one upper side of the bag to the other in an arch. Attach to the left hand. The bag in the image is small, soft, and hangs just below the sleeve cuff.

Optional Tiny Teacups Make 2

These small props help recreate the full scene shown in the image.

Using color E or muted rose, CO 8 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 3: Stockinette.
2. Row 4: *K2tog; rep across. 4 sts.
3. Thread yarn through sts and pull tight.

Sew into a mini cup and shape gently. Add a curved handle with a short strand of yarn. Stuff very lightly or not at all.

Optional Tiny Book

Using brown or muted taupe yarn, CO 12 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 16: Work garter stitch.
2. BO.

Fold around a tiny rectangle of felt or card and sew closed. Embroider a small spine line. This recreates the knitted book prop shown beside the doll.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff the head.
2. Make and insert neck support into the body.
3. Sew and stuff body, arms, and legs.
4. Attach legs close together at the lower body center.
5. Attach arms at shoulder level.
6. Sew body to head securely through the neck support.
7. Add hair cap, bangs, side curls, and back strands.
8. Dress the doll with underskirt, skirt, bodice, straps, sleeves, cuffs, and apron.
9. Attach shoes neatly facing forward.
10. Add hat and hat flowers.
11. Attach handbag and any optional props.

Placing the Facial Features

The face in the photo is very sweet and minimal. Less is better.

• Eyes: Place them 7 stitches apart, centered horizontally, about 6 rows above the midpoint of the face.
• Eye style: Use tiny black French knots or satin stitches, each no larger than 2 stitches wide.
• Nose: Use one horizontal straight stitch in skin or slightly darker beige.
• Mouth: Use one very short pale beige or blush pink straight stitch below the nose.
• Cheeks: Add soft circular blush under each eye.

The mouth should be extremely subtle. The charm of the doll comes mostly from the rosy cheeks, rounded bangs, and calm eye placement.

How to Match the Photo More Closely

• Keep the head large compared with the torso.
• Use dark gray hair, not black, for the same softness shown in the image.
• Make the side curls long enough to rest on the bodice.
• Keep the bodice narrow and the skirt full.
• Add several tiny bows. They are an important visual detail.
• Use warm gold, not bright yellow, for the apron and front panel.
• Use delicate white trim around hem and cuffs.
• Position the hat slightly back on the head so the bangs remain visible.

Beginner Tips for a Neat Result

Always seam with matching yarn and take tiny backstitches. Large visible seams will spoil the refined antique look of the doll. Light steaming before assembly can help flatten small pieces, but do not oversteam stuffed sections.

When placing flowers and bows, pin them first. Step back and compare the balance from a distance. The image has symmetry overall, but the flower clusters are intentionally a little organic rather than ruler-perfect.

If you do not have lace trim, you can imitate it by knitting narrow eyelet edging. Work a strip with repeated yarn-overs and sew it around the skirt and cuffs. Keep it soft and delicate.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Attach the head slightly angled forward for a sweet, storybook posture. Sew the bangs before placing the hat, then add the curls so they frame the cheeks. Embroider the eyes tiny and evenly. Add only a faint mouth and soft blush so the expression stays gentle and true to the image.

Care Notes

This doll is best suited for display or gentle handling. Keep it away from rough pulling, especially around the hat flowers, apron embroidery, bag handle, and curls. If gifting to a child, secure every embellishment with extra stitches.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head firmly stuffed and smooth
• Neck stable and upright
• Bangs centered and curls even
• Skirt full and apron centered
• Bows, butterflies, and flowers balanced
• Hat tilted slightly back
• Shoes facing forward evenly
• Facial features small and symmetrical

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Dust gently with a soft dry brush. Spot clean only with a barely damp cloth and mild soap. Do not machine wash, soak, wring, or tumble dry. Store away from direct sun to protect the crimson and pink tones. For long-term display, keep the doll upright and supported so the hat and curls hold their shape.