Knitting Tutorial: Vintage Cream Ruffle Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This vintage cream bunny is designed as a romantic heirloom toy with a wide-brim hat, layered ruffle dress, tiny rose trims, a knitted handbag, and matching shoes. The look is perfect for collectors who love handmade bunny dolls, cottagecore nursery decor, luxury stuffed animals, and elegant gift ideas. The finished piece has a soft antique style, long ears, a gentle face, and dramatic skirt volume that makes it feel like a boutique keepsake. If you enjoy making decorative knitted animals that look ready for display, this pattern will guide you through every step in a clear and beginner-friendly way.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main yarn: Fingering or light sport weight yarn in vintage cream, about 320 to 380 g for the bunny, dress, hat, shoes, and handbag.
• Accent yarn: Small amounts of dusty rose, deep rose red, olive green, tan, brown, black, orange rust, and soft white for roses, leaves, and optional props.
• Needles: US 2 and US 3 double-pointed needles, plus a 24-inch circular needle in US 3 for skirt sections.
• Gauge: 30 stitches and 40 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette on US 2 with firm toy tension.
• Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, waste yarn, stuffing, thin ribbon or I-cord tie support, small amount of cardboard or plastic canvas for bag base, black embroidery thread, pinkish brown embroidery floss for nose, optional very small pearl seed beads if desired for trim.

Abbreviations

• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• m1L = make 1 left
• m1R = make 1 right
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• sl = slip
• rep = repeat
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker
• yo = yarn over

Finished Size

The bunny measures about 14 inches tall from the base of the skirt to the top of the head, not including the hat brim. From the skirt hem to the top of the hat, the finished height is about 16 to 17 inches. The body is slim, while the dress creates most of the width and volume.

The proportions in this design matter. The head is large and softly rounded, the muzzle is lightly shaped rather than protruding strongly, the ears are long and flat, the arms are medium length with rounded mitt-style paws, and the lower body is hidden by a dramatic layered skirt.

Pattern Notes

This bunny is built in separate parts for the cleanest silhouette. The head, body, arms, ears, dress panels, hat, bag, shoes, and rose trims are all worked separately and assembled carefully. That construction gives the elegant Victorian look visible in the image.

Use a firm knitting tension throughout. A soft or loose fabric will not hold the neat sculpted look of the face, sleeves, and ruffles. Stuff gradually and evenly. Keep the neck especially firm so the head stays upright under the hat.

The dress is not a simple tube. It has an inner base skirt and several visible ruffle layers placed higher up the front and sides. This creates the tiered silhouette shown in the picture. Read the skirt section fully before beginning.

Head

Head Base

Using cream and US 2 double-pointed needles, CO 12 sts. Divide evenly across 3 needles. Join carefully for working in the round.

1. Rnd 1: Knit.
2. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st. 24 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Knit.
4. Rnd 4: K1, kfb around. 36 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Knit.
6. Rnd 6: K2, kfb around. 48 sts.
7. Rnd 7: Knit.
8. Rnd 8: K3, kfb around. 60 sts.
9. Rnd 9: Knit.
10. Rnd 10: K4, kfb around. 72 sts.
11. Rnds 11 to 32: Knit.

The face in the photo is smooth and rounded rather than pointed. To achieve that, the muzzle shaping is subtle and placed low on the face with embroidery added later instead of an attached snout piece.

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Muzzle Shaping Short Rows

Place marker for center front. Work the following back-and-forth over the middle 24 stitches only. Keep remaining stitches on needles.

1. Row 1 RS: Knit 18, wrap and turn.
2. Row 2 WS: Purl 12, wrap and turn.
3. Row 3 RS: Knit 16, wrap and turn.
4. Row 4 WS: Purl 16, wrap and turn.
5. Row 5 RS: Knit 20, wrap and turn.
6. Row 6 WS: Purl 20, wrap and turn.

Resume knitting in the round, picking up wraps neatly. Knit 4 full rounds. This creates the slight forward fullness needed for the nose and mouth embroidery while keeping the head mostly spherical.

Head Decrease

1. Rnd 33: K10, k2tog around. 66 sts.
2. Rnd 34: Knit.
3. Rnd 35: K9, k2tog around. 60 sts.
4. Rnd 36: Knit.
5. Rnd 37: K8, k2tog around. 54 sts.
6. Rnd 38: Knit.
7. Rnd 39: K7, k2tog around. 48 sts.
8. Rnd 40: K6, k2tog around. 42 sts.
9. Rnd 41: K5, k2tog around. 36 sts.

Begin stuffing firmly. Shape the cheeks softly with your fingers as you fill. The face should look calm and smooth, not hard or square. Add extra stuffing at the lower front and back of the crown so the hat sits nicely.

1. Rnd 42: K4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
2. Rnd 43: K3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
3. Rnd 44: K2, k2tog around. 18 sts.

Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull tight, and close. Weave in securely. The closed point will sit inside the neck opening, so perfect invisibility is not essential.

Body and Neck

The body is a narrow support form hidden under the elaborate dress. It should be stable, not bulky. Use cream yarn and US 2 needles.

1. CO 12 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: Knit.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb around. 24 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Knit.
5. Rnd 4: K2, kfb around. 32 sts.
6. Rnds 5 to 10: Knit.
7. Rnd 11: K3, kfb around. 40 sts.
8. Rnds 12 to 22: Knit.
9. Rnd 23: K8, k2tog around. 36 sts.
10. Rnds 24 to 28: Knit.
11. Rnd 29: K4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
12. Rnds 30 to 34: Knit.
13. Rnd 35: K3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
14. Rnds 36 to 43: Knit.

Stuff the lower body firmly but do not overfill. It should fit inside the dress without stretching it. Keep the top of the body narrower than the skirt base so the bodice looks fitted.

For the neck, continue from 24 stitches.

1. Rnd 44: K2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
2. Rnds 45 to 54: Knit.

Stuff the neck very firmly. Insert a rolled piece of plastic canvas or a tightly rolled felt strip if you want extra support. Leave a long tail for sewing the head to the neck opening.

Arms

The arms are softly stuffed and end in simple rounded paws. The sleeves and cuffs are knitted separately so the dress keeps its graceful layered shape. Make 2 in cream.

1. CO 10 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: Knit.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st. 20 sts.
4. Rnds 3 to 10: Knit.
5. Rnd 11: K2tog around. 10 sts.
6. Rnds 12 to 28: Knit.

Stuff the paw area well and the upper arm lightly. The paws in the image are neat and oval, not large mittens. Flatten the upper part slightly before closing.

1. Row 29: Knit across 5 stitches, turn.
2. Row 30: Purl 5.
3. Repeat Rows 29 and 30 for 4 more rows to create a flat top.

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BO all stitches together using three-needle style or graft the opening closed. Leave a long tail for sewing. Make the second arm the same.

Ears

The bunny has long hanging ears placed under the hat brim. They are narrow at the top, fuller at the center, and softly rounded at the tip. Make 2 in cream, worked flat.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1 RS: Knit.
3. Row 2 WS: Purl.
4. Row 3: K1, m1L, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: Purl.
6. Row 5: Knit.
7. Row 6: Purl.
8. Row 7: K1, m1L, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. 12 sts.
9. Rows 8 to 18: Continue in stockinette.
10. Row 19: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
11. Row 20: Purl.
12. Row 21: Knit.
13. Row 22: Purl.
14. Row 23: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
15. Row 24: Purl.
16. Rows 25 to 33: Continue in stockinette.
17. Row 34: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
18. Row 35: Purl.
19. Row 36: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
20. Row 37: Purl.
21. Row 38: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
22. Row 39: P2tog.

Leave a long tail. Steam lightly if needed, but do not flatten too sharply. The ears should drape gently beside the face.

Neck Frill

The neckline shows a delicate frilled collar above the bodice. This can be knitted as a separate trim and sewn around the neck seam.

1. Using cream and US 2 needles, CO 60 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, yo around to last stitch, k1. 118 sts.
4. Row 3 WS: Purl.
5. Row 4 RS: Knit.
6. BO loosely knitwise.

Gently gather the straight edge and fit it around the neck. The frill should stand softly upward like the image, not flare too far out.

Dress Bodice

The bodice is fitted, centered, and decorated with vertical textured bands and crisscross lacing. It is worked flat in two fronts and one back, then joined at the shoulders and sides.

Back Bodice

1. Using cream and US 2 needles, CO 34 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K3, p2, k24, p2, k3.
4. Rows 3 to 19: Work the stitches as established, keeping 3-stitch garter edges and 2-stitch reverse stockinette bands inside them.
5. Row 20: BO 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 28 sts.
6. Rows 21 to 28: Continue even.
7. Row 29 RS: K8, BO 12, knit 8.
8. Work each side separately for neck.
9. Row 30 WS: Purl.
10. Row 31 RS: K6, k2tog. 7 sts.
11. Row 32 WS: Purl.
12. BO remaining 7 sts.
13. Repeat for second side, shaping neck with ssk instead.

Front Bodice, Make 2 Mirrored

1. CO 20 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K3, p2, k15.
4. Rows 3 to 15: Continue as set.
5. Row 16 RS: K3, p2, k2tog, knit to end. 19 sts.
6. Row 17 WS: Purl.
7. Row 18 RS: K3, p2, k2tog, knit to end. 18 sts.
8. Rows 19 to 20: Work even.
9. Row 21 armhole row: BO 3 sts at side edge once. 15 sts.
10. Rows 22 to 27: Work even.
11. Row 28 neck shaping: At center front edge, BO 4 sts once.
12. Row 29: Decrease 1 stitch at neck edge.
13. Row 30: Work even.
14. Row 31: Decrease 1 stitch at neck edge.
15. BO remaining shoulder stitches.

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Sew shoulder seams and side seams. Fit the bodice tightly to the stuffed body. The front opening area will later receive I-cord lacing to create the corset effect visible in the image.

Bodice Edging and Lacing

Pick up 40 stitches along each front edge. Work 3 rows in garter stitch, then BO loosely. This makes the narrow decorative front borders that frame the lacing panel.

Make a thin I-cord about 22 inches long using 3 stitches. Thread it through the bodice in a crisscross pattern from waist upward. Do not pull too tightly. The photo shows neat, visible lacing with a small hanging tie at the lower center.

Main Skirt Base

The skirt is the most dramatic feature. It is long, full, and layered with three major horizontal ruffle zones. Start at the waist and work downward in the round using US 3 needles for better drape.

1. CO 96 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnds 1 to 6: K1, p1 rib.
3. Rnd 7: Knit, increasing 24 sts evenly. 120 sts.
4. Rnds 8 to 18: Knit.
5. Rnd 19: K5, m1R around. 140 sts.
6. Rnds 20 to 30: Knit.
7. Rnd 31: K6, m1R around. 160 sts.
8. Rnds 32 to 44: Knit.
9. Rnd 45: K7, m1R around. 180 sts.
10. Rnds 46 to 58: Knit.
11. Rnd 59: K8, m1R around. 200 sts.
12. Rnds 60 to 72: Knit.

The base skirt should flare smoothly and stand in a wide bell shape when lightly blocked. Do not stuff the skirt. Its fullness comes from the knitted circumference and the applied ruffles.

1. Rnd 73: Purl all stitches. This turning ridge marks the placement for the lowest major ruffle.
2. Rnds 74 to 82: Knit.
3. Rnd 83: Purl all stitches. This marks the middle ruffle placement.
4. Rnds 84 to 92: Knit.
5. Rnd 93: Purl all stitches. This marks the upper apron ruffle placement.
6. Rnds 94 to 108: Knit.
7. Rnd 109: K2, p2 around for 1 round.
8. Rnd 110: Knit.
9. BO loosely.

Lower Skirt Ruffle

With RS facing and cream yarn, pick up 200 stitches along the purl ridge from Round 73. Work in the round.

1. Rnd 1: Knit, increasing 60 sts evenly. 260 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Purl.
3. Rnd 3: Knit.
4. Rnd 4: Purl.
5. Rnd 5: K1, yo around to end. 520 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Purl.
7. BO very loosely knitwise.

This creates the deep rippling flounce at the lower skirt. It should wave softly, not stand stiffly. If needed, block with gentle steam and finger-shape the curves.

Middle Skirt Ruffle

Pick up 180 stitches along the purl ridge from Round 83.

1. Rnd 1: Knit, increasing 40 sts evenly. 220 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Purl.
3. Rnd 3: Knit.
4. Rnd 4: Purl.
5. Rnd 5: K1, yo around. 440 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Purl.
7. BO loosely.

This ruffle sits higher and slightly shorter than the bottom one. In the image it frames the center of the dress and helps build that layered, romantic silhouette.

Upper Apron-Like Front Ruffle

This section gives the impression of a gathered front overskirt. Work it flat and sew only across the front half of the skirt.

1. CO 90 sts with cream on US 3.
2. Rows 1 to 8: Stockinette, beginning with a WS purl row.
3. Row 9 RS: K1, yo across to last stitch, k1. 178 sts.
4. Row 10 WS: Purl.
5. BO loosely on Row 11.

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Lightly gather the top edge to fit the front of the skirt, centered under the bodice lacing. Sew in place with the lower edge hanging free. This gives the raised front layer seen in the photo.

Narrow Decorative Frill Bands

The dress has several lighter trims between the big ruffles. Make 3 identical narrow frill strips.

1. CO 70 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, yo around to last stitch, k1. 138 sts.
4. Row 3 WS: Purl.
5. BO loosely.

Sew one at the upper edge of the front overskirt, one above the middle skirt ruffle, and one above the lowest skirt ruffle. Place them slightly asymmetrically if needed to match the flowing look of the image.

Sleeve Cuffs

The bunny wears dramatic flared sleeve cuffs with small frills. Make 2.

1. CO 24 sts in cream.
2. Join in the round.
3. Rnds 1 to 4: K1, p1 rib.
4. Rnd 5: Knit, increasing 12 sts evenly. 36 sts.
5. Rnd 6: Purl.
6. Rnd 7: Knit.
7. Rnd 8: Purl.
8. Rnd 9: K1, yo around. 70 sts.
9. Rnd 10: Purl.
10. BO loosely.

Sew the top ribbed edge around each arm, about 1 inch above the paw. The sleeve frill should sit outward and slightly downward.

Wide-Brim Hat

The hat is essential for the vintage look. It has a rounded crown, broad downward brim, and rose trim at one side. Work from the top down in cream.

1. CO 8 sts on US 2 double-pointed needles. Join in round.
2. Rnd 1: Knit.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb around. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Knit.
5. Rnd 4: K1, kfb around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 5: Knit.
7. Rnd 6: K2, kfb around. 32 sts.
8. Rnd 7: Knit.
9. Rnd 8: K3, kfb around. 40 sts.
10. Rnd 9: Knit.
11. Rnd 10: K4, kfb around. 48 sts.
12. Rnd 11: Knit.
13. Rnd 12: K5, kfb around. 56 sts.
14. Rnds 13 to 26: Knit.

This forms the crown. The top should be smooth and not too tall. The photo shows a moderate dome, not a high bonnet.

1. Rnd 27: K6, kfb around. 64 sts.
2. Rnd 28: Knit.
3. Switch to US 3.
4. Rnd 29: K7, kfb around. 72 sts.
5. Rnd 30: Purl.
6. Rnd 31: Knit.
7. Rnd 32: K8, kfb around. 80 sts.
8. Rnd 33: Purl.
9. Rnd 34: Knit.
10. Rnd 35: K9, kfb around. 88 sts.
11. Rnd 36: Purl.
12. Rnd 37: Knit.
13. Rnd 38: K10, kfb around. 96 sts.
14. Rnd 39: Purl.
15. Rnd 40: Knit.
16. Rnd 41: K11, kfb around. 104 sts.
17. Rnd 42: Purl.
18. Rnd 43: Knit.
19. BO loosely.

Steam the brim lightly over a towel and shape it so the sides dip gently. Sew the hat to the head only at the crown center and one side so the brim remains soft and natural.

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Handbag

The bag is a small soft rectangle with a curved flap and a knitted strap. It hangs from the bunny’s arm and includes a tiny rose trim.

Bag Body

1. Using cream and US 2 needles, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 22: Stockinette, beginning with a WS purl row.
3. Rows 23 to 26: Garter stitch.
4. BO.

Fold the lower two-thirds upward to form the bag pouch. Sew side seams. Insert a small base cut from plastic canvas if you want a crisp shape.

Flap

1. Pick up 18 sts along upper back edge.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Rows 2 to 7: Stockinette.
4. Row 8 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
5. Row 9 WS: Purl.
6. Rep Rows 8 and 9 until 8 sts remain.
7. Work 2 rows even.
8. BO.

Strap

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Knit I-cord for 18 inches.
3. BO and sew securely to both bag sides.

Shoes

The shoes are tiny cream slip-ons placed in front of the bunny. They are optional but complete the display. Make 2.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1 RS: Knit.
3. Row 2 WS: Purl.
4. Row 3: Kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: Purl.
6. Row 5: Kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb. 12 sts.
7. Rows 6 to 14: Stockinette.

Now shape the top opening.

1. Row 15 RS: K4, BO 4, k4.
2. Row 16 WS: P4, CO 4, p4. 12 sts.
3. Rows 17 to 20: Stockinette.
4. Fold in half and sew sole and heel seams.

Make a narrow 20-stitch strip in garter stitch for each tiny strap if desired. Sew across the instep to mimic Mary Jane shoes.

Tiny Roses

The roses appear on the hat, bodice, sleeves, bag, and skirt. Make several in two shades of pink and red for the clustered floral placement seen in the image.

Small Rose

1. Using rose yarn, CO 26 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, yo around to last stitch, k1. 50 sts.
4. Row 3 WS: Purl.
5. BO loosely.

Roll the strip tightly from one end into a rose. Sew the base securely. Make at least 10 small roses in mixed shades.

Tiny Leaf

1. Using olive yarn, CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1: Knit.
3. Row 2: Kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
4. Row 3: Knit.
5. Row 4: Ssk, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
6. Row 5: K3tog.

Make 14 to 18 leaves. Sew them in pairs beside roses.

Optional Fox Companion

The image also includes a small seated fox in a green vest holding a little book. If you want the full display, you can knit a tiny companion. This section is brief but complete enough to create the matching prop.

Fox Head

1. Using orange rust, CO 8 sts and join in round.
2. Rnd 1: Knit.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb around. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Knit.
5. Rnd 4: K1, kfb around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 5: Knit.
7. Rnd 6: K2, kfb around. 32 sts.
8. Rnds 7 to 15: Knit.
9. Switch lower front 10 stitches to white for 4 rounds.
10. Decrease every other round to 20 sts, stuff, then close.

Fox Ears, Make 2

1. CO 8 sts in orange.
2. Work 6 rows stockinette.
3. Decrease 1 stitch each side on next RS row.
4. Continue decreasing on every RS row until 2 sts remain.
5. Sew lightly and insert tiny white inner triangles.

Fox Body

1. CO 12 sts in orange and join in round.
2. Increase to 28 sts over first 4 rounds.
3. Knit 16 rounds.
4. Decrease to 16 sts for neck over 4 rounds.
5. Stuff and sew to head.

Fox Arms and Legs

1. Arms: CO 6 sts, join, knit 12 rounds, change to brown for last 3 rounds, stuff lightly, close. Make 2.
2. Legs: CO 8 sts, join, knit 14 rounds, change to brown for last 4 rounds, stuff firmly, close. Make 2.

Fox Tail

1. CO 8 sts, join in round.
2. Increase to 20 sts over first 4 rounds.
3. Knit 14 rounds in orange, then 5 rounds in white.
4. Decrease gradually to close.

Fox Vest and Book

1. Vest back: CO 18 sts in moss green, work 12 rows stockinette, shape tiny armholes and neck, BO.
2. Vest fronts: CO 8 sts each, work to same height, shape neck edge, sew shoulders and sides.
3. Book: CO 10 sts in brown, work 14 rows garter, fold and sew like an open booklet, add white pages inside.

Sew the fox in a seated pose with legs forward and arms bent around the book. Embroider black eyes and nose. This companion should measure about 5 inches tall when seated.

Optional Basket and Tea Cup

The little basket of yarn and tea cup can be added as tiny display props. They are quick and help recreate the full scene from the image.

Basket

1. Using tan yarn, CO 8 sts and join in round.
2. Increase to 24 sts over 4 rounds.
3. Knit 8 rounds.
4. Purl 1 round.
5. Knit 3 rounds.
6. BO loosely.
7. Make a 3-stitch I-cord handle 8 inches long and sew to opposite sides.

Tea Cup

1. Using cream, CO 6 sts and join in round.
2. Increase to 18 sts over 4 rounds.
3. Knit 5 rounds.
4. Purl 1 round.
5. BO loosely.
6. Add a tiny handle made from 3 chained stitches of embroidery floss or miniature I-cord.

Rose Placement Guide

To match the image as closely as possible, cluster the flowers instead of spacing them evenly. The arrangement should feel organic and decorative, like vintage millinery and dress appliqué.

• Hat: 3 roses grouped on one side of the brim, with 2 to 3 leaves.
• Bodice: 1 small rose cluster near the right shoulder and another tiny cluster near the left side of the waist.
• Sleeves: 1 rose cluster near the outer top of each cuff.
• Skirt: 3 visible clusters placed across the front, with one on the upper front layer, one mid-right, and one lower-left.
• Bag: 1 small rose with leaves on the flap.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the head securely to the neck with strong stitches. Attach the ears slightly behind the side center of the head so they hang straight down under the hat. Sew the arms to the upper body, angled gently downward.

Place the dress on the body before attaching the arms permanently if needed. Sew the bodice closed at the back. Stitch the skirt waist to the lower edge of the bodice. Add the neck frill last so it covers the join.

For the face, embroider two slim vertical black eyes spaced about 10 to 11 stitches apart. Embroider a tiny inverted Y-shaped nose and mouth in soft brown-pink thread. Keep the expression delicate, centered, and calm.

Care Notes

Display the bunny away from direct sunlight to preserve the cream tone and rose colors. Because of the layered trim and floral details, this piece is better suited for decorative use than rough play.

If gifting to a child, embroider all features securely and stitch every embellishment firmly in place. Avoid loose beads for young children. A fully embroidered version is the safest choice.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head stuffed firmly and face centered
• Neck stable enough to support hat
• Ears hanging evenly on both sides
• Bodice lacing centered and not too tight
• Skirt tiers placed in correct order
• Sleeve cuffs flaring outward
• Hat brim shaped softly downward
• Rose clusters balanced but not overly symmetrical
• Bag strap secure and scaled to the bunny
• Shoes finished as a matching pair

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Dust gently with a clean dry makeup brush or soft cloth. For deeper cleaning, spot clean only with cool water and a tiny amount of mild wool wash. Never twist or scrub the ruffles, hat brim, or floral appliqués.

If the piece becomes damp, reshape the head, ears, sleeves, and skirt by hand and lay flat to dry on a towel. Do not hang it while wet. Store with acid-free tissue inside the hat and skirt if keeping long term.

Keep in a breathable cotton bag rather than sealed plastic. This helps protect the yarn while preventing trapped moisture. Check stored pieces occasionally so the stuffing and trims stay fresh, dry, and neatly shaped.