Knitting Tutorial: Striped Snake in a Denim Floral Dress – Free Knitting Pattern

Knitting Tutorial: Striped Snake in a Denim Floral Dress – Free Knitting Pattern

This cheerful knitted snake doll has a bright green head, blue-and-green striped arms, legs, and tail, plus a soft denim-style floral dress with shoulder buttons. The outfit includes striped short sleeves, sandal-style shoes, a tiny crossbody bag with a red ladybug, a straw sunhat with a daisy, and miniature garden tools for a sweet outdoor handmade look.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern creates a soft knitted snake doll inspired by the picture, with a rounded green snake head, two raised eye bumps, a red forked tongue, a long curled striped tail, slim arms, straight legs, and a denim-blue floral pinafore dress. The finished doll is designed to lie flat or sit gently as a decorative toy.

The construction uses mostly small pieces knitted in the round with double-pointed needles or a magic loop. The dress is knitted separately in a denim-colored yarn, then fitted over the body. Small embroidered flowers, button straps, a woven-look bag, sandals, hat, watering can, and trowel complete the garden theme.

Finished Size

  • Total height: about 14 inches from top of eye bumps to bottom of sandals.
  • Head width: about 3.25 inches across the widest green head section.
  • Body length under dress: about 5 inches.
  • Arm length: about 4.25 inches each.
  • Leg length: about 4.5 inches each before sandals.
  • Tail length: about 7.5 inches, lightly curved to the right side.
  • Dress length: about 5.25 inches from bib top to hem.
  • Bag size: about 1.5 inches wide and 1.75 inches tall.
  • Hat width: about 4.5 inches across the brim.

Skill Level

Intermediate beginner to intermediate. The main shapes are simple tubes and rounded pieces, but the pattern includes color stripes, small sewn accessories, embroidery, and careful placement. A confident beginner can complete this doll by working slowly and checking stitch counts after every shaping round.

Materials

  • DK weight yarn in bright leaf green for head, hands, lower legs, feet, and tail stripes.
  • DK weight yarn in turquoise blue for arms, legs, neck, and tail stripes.
  • DK weight yarn in darker teal blue for neck ribbing and stripe accents.
  • DK weight yarn in denim blue for the dress and sandal straps.
  • DK weight yarn in cream, white, coral, mint, and light blue for shirt stripes.
  • DK weight yarn in tan or straw beige for hat, bag, and sandal soles.
  • Small amounts of white yarn for eyes and daisies.
  • Small amounts of yellow yarn for flower centers.
  • Small amount of red yarn for the forked tongue and bag ladybug.
  • Small amount of black yarn or two 6 mm black safety eyes for eye pupils.
  • Two small tan buttons, about 3/8 inch wide, for dress straps.
  • Fiberfill stuffing.
  • US size 3 knitting needles, 3.25 mm, double-pointed needles or circular needle for magic loop.
  • US size 2 knitting needles, 2.75 mm, for tighter accessories if desired.
  • Tapestry needle.
  • Stitch markers.
  • Waste yarn or stitch holders.
  • Embroidery needle for flower details.
  • Optional: pipe cleaner for tail curve, sealed inside stuffing.

Gauge

  • Main doll gauge: 24 sts and 34 rnds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, knitted in the round.
  • Dress gauge: 25 sts and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, knitted flat.
  • Accessory gauge: tight enough that stuffing does not show through.

Gauge is important for matching the proportions in the image. A firm gauge gives the snake a smooth plush shape and keeps the arms, legs, and head from stretching too much after stuffing. If your stitches look loose, move down one needle size.

Abbreviations

  • CO: cast on.
  • BO: bind off.
  • k: knit.
  • p: purl.
  • st or sts: stitch or stitches.
  • rnd: round.
  • RS: right side.
  • WS: wrong side.
  • kfb: knit into the front and back of the same stitch, increasing 1 stitch.
  • k2tog: knit 2 stitches together, decreasing 1 stitch.
  • ssk: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit slipped stitches together through the back loops.
  • m1: make 1 stitch by lifting the bar between stitches and knitting through the back loop.
  • st st: stockinette stitch.
  • garter stitch: knit every row when working flat.
  • seed stitch: alternate k1, p1, then purl the knits and knit the purls on the next row.

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Helpful Construction Notes

The doll is built from separate pieces so the shape stays close to the picture. The head is a rounded green snake head with a slightly narrower lower jaw. The body is a simple stuffed torso hidden by the denim dress. The neck is visible as a striped blue-green tube between head and dress.

The arms and legs are long, slim, and striped. The hands and lower feet are green. The tail is also a tapered striped tube and should curl gently to the doll’s right side. The dress is knitted flat with a flared skirt and a small bib, then seamed in the back.

  • Stuff each piece firmly but not hard.
  • Use mattress stitch for neat seams.
  • When changing colors for stripes, twist yarns gently on the inside to prevent gaps.
  • Keep all embroidered flowers small so the denim dress remains visible.
  • Place buttons high on the chest, just under the shoulders, as shown in the photo.

Color Stripe Plan

The picture shows strong turquoise and green striping on the arms, legs, and tail. Use the following stripe rhythm for a close match. Each stripe is worked in the round unless otherwise stated.

  • Green hand or foot section: solid green for the rounded end.
  • Main blue stripe: 6 rnds turquoise blue.
  • Thin bright green stripe: 2 rnds green.
  • Thin teal divider: 1 rnd darker teal if desired.
  • Repeat: blue and green stripe rhythm along limbs and tail.
  • Upper shirt sleeve: cream base with coral, mint, pale blue, and teal narrow stripes.

Head

The head is the most important shape. It should be wide, rounded, and slightly taller than it is wide, with the top swelling gently under the eye bumps. Work in bright green.

  1. CO 8 sts and divide across double-pointed needles. Join to work in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: k all 8 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. 16 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
  5. Rnd 4: repeat k1, kfb around. 24 sts.
  6. Rnd 5: k all sts.
  7. Rnd 6: repeat k2, kfb around. 32 sts.
  8. Rnd 7: k all sts.
  9. Rnd 8: repeat k3, kfb around. 40 sts.
  10. Rnd 9: k all sts.
  11. Rnd 10: repeat k4, kfb around. 48 sts.
  12. Rnds 11-18: k all 48 sts for 8 rnds.
  13. Rnd 19: k10, kfb, k2, kfb, k20, kfb, k2, kfb, k10. 52 sts.
  14. Rnds 20-25: k all 52 sts.
  15. Rnd 26: k10, k2tog, k2, ssk, k20, k2tog, k2, ssk, k10. 48 sts.
  16. Rnd 27: k all sts.
  17. Rnd 28: repeat k6, k2tog around. 42 sts.
  18. Rnd 29: k all sts.
  19. Rnd 30: repeat k5, k2tog around. 36 sts.
  20. Rnd 31: k all sts.
  21. Rnd 32: repeat k4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
  22. Stuff the head firmly, shaping the top round and the lower face slightly flatter.
  23. Rnd 33: repeat k3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
  24. Rnd 34: k all sts.
  25. Leave the 24 sts live for joining to the neck, or cut yarn with a long tail and thread through the stitches if you prefer to sew the head on later.

Lower Mouth Line

The image shows a gentle gray-green curved mouth line across the lower face, with the red tongue attached at the center. This line gives the snake its soft smiling expression.

  1. Thread a tapestry needle with a 16 inch length of pale gray-green yarn.
  2. Start at the left side of the face, about 7 rnds above the neck opening.
  3. Make a shallow backstitch line across 20 sts, curving slightly downward at the center.
  4. Each backstitch should cover 1 knitted stitch width.
  5. End on the right side at the same height as the starting point.
  6. Pull gently so the line sits on the surface without puckering the stuffing.

Eye Bumps

The eye bumps are white rounded domes set close together on top of the head. They tilt slightly outward and hold small black pupils near the upper front.

Make Two

  1. Using white yarn, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: k all 8 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. 16 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
  5. Rnd 4: repeat k1, kfb around. 24 sts.
  6. Rnds 5-7: k all 24 sts.
  7. Rnd 8: repeat k2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
  8. Stuff lightly so the dome is round but soft.
  9. Rnd 9: repeat k1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
  10. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and weave in.

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Sew the eye bumps to the top front of the head, placing them about 3 sts apart. The lower edge of each eye bump should sit around Rnd 8 from the head top. Stitch firmly around the base twice so they stand upright.

Pupils

  1. Use two 6 mm black safety eyes before closing each eye bump, or embroider each pupil with black yarn after sewing.
  2. For embroidered pupils, make 5 small satin stitches over 2 knitted sts.
  3. Add one tiny white highlight stitch at the upper side of each black pupil if desired.

Red Forked Tongue

The tongue hangs from the center of the mouth line and has a small fork at the bottom. It should be bright red and narrow.

  1. Using red yarn and two double-pointed needles, CO 4 sts.
  2. Rows 1-8: work i-cord by knitting 4 sts, sliding stitches back to the other end of the needle, and knitting again.
  3. Row 9: k2, place last 2 sts on a spare needle.
  4. Work first fork over 2 sts for 4 i-cord rows. Cut yarn and pull through.
  5. Rejoin yarn to the 2 held sts and work second fork for 4 i-cord rows. Cut yarn and pull through.
  6. Sew the top of the tongue at the center of the mouth line.
  7. Let the fork hang downward over the top of the neck.

Neck

The neck is a visible narrow tube under the head. It shows blue, teal, and green vertical body color, with a darker ribbed collar look near the dress neckline.

  1. Using turquoise blue, CO 24 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnds 1-6: k all sts in turquoise blue.
  3. Change to darker teal.
  4. Rnds 7-10: work k1, p1 rib around.
  5. Change to green.
  6. Rnds 11-14: k all sts.
  7. Change to turquoise blue.
  8. Rnds 15-20: k all sts.
  9. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Stuff the neck lightly. Sew the top edge of the neck to the 24 live or closed stitches at the base of the head. The head should sit straight but slightly forward, just like the photo.

Body

The body is hidden under the dress, but it gives the doll structure. Use turquoise blue or green because a little may show under the dress at the neckline and side openings.

  1. Using turquoise blue, CO 28 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
  3. Rnd 2: repeat k6, kfb around. 32 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
  5. Rnd 4: repeat k7, kfb around. 36 sts.
  6. Rnds 5-18: k all 36 sts.
  7. Rnd 19: repeat k7, k2tog around. 32 sts.
  8. Rnds 20-24: k all 32 sts.
  9. Rnd 25: repeat k6, k2tog around. 28 sts.
  10. Rnd 26: k all sts.
  11. Stuff the body firmly, keeping it oval and slightly narrower at the shoulders.
  12. Rnd 27: repeat k5, k2tog around. 24 sts.
  13. BO all sts, leaving a long sewing tail.

Sew the neck to the top of the body. The neck should emerge from the body center. The dress bib will later cover most of the joining seam.

Arms

The arms are slim, long, and striped. Each arm begins with a rounded green hand, then changes into turquoise and green bands. The upper sleeve is worked separately and sewn over the shoulder area.

Make Two Arm Tubes

  1. Using green yarn, CO 10 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
  3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. 20 sts.
  4. Rnds 3-8: k all 20 sts.
  5. Rnd 9: repeat k3, k2tog around. 16 sts.
  6. Rnds 10-15: k all 16 sts in green.
  7. Change to turquoise blue.
  8. Rnds 16-21: k all sts.
  9. Change to green.
  10. Rnds 22-23: k all sts.
  11. Change to turquoise blue.
  12. Rnds 24-29: k all sts.
  13. Change to darker teal.
  14. Rnd 30: k all sts.
  15. Change to turquoise blue.
  16. Rnds 31-35: k all sts.
  17. Change to green.
  18. Rnds 36-37: k all sts.
  19. Change to turquoise blue.
  20. Rnds 38-42: k all sts.
  21. BO all 16 sts, leaving a 12 inch tail.

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Stuff each arm lightly at the hand and moderately through the tube. Do not overstuff the top 1/2 inch, because it should flatten slightly against the shoulder.

Striped Short Sleeves

The sleeves sit over the upper arms and match the striped shirt visible under the denim dress. They are cream with coral, mint, light blue, and teal stripes.

  1. Using cream yarn, CO 24 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: k all sts in cream.
  3. Rnd 2: p all sts in cream to form a tiny rolled edge.
  4. Rnd 3: k all sts in cream.
  5. Rnd 4: k all sts in coral.
  6. Rnd 5: k all sts in cream.
  7. Rnd 6: k all sts in mint.
  8. Rnd 7: k all sts in cream.
  9. Rnd 8: k all sts in light blue.
  10. Rnd 9: k all sts in cream.
  11. Rnd 10: k all sts in coral.
  12. Rnds 11-12: k all sts in cream.
  13. BO loosely.

Slide one sleeve over the top of each arm before sewing the arm to the body. Tack the sleeve edge to the arm with small stitches so it does not move.

Legs

The legs are straight and narrow with green lower feet, turquoise-blue striped calves, and a thin green stripe pattern. The sandals are made separately and sewn around the feet.

Make Two Legs

  1. Using green yarn, CO 12 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
  3. Rnd 2: repeat k1, kfb around. 18 sts.
  4. Rnds 3-8: k all 18 sts in green.
  5. Rnd 9: k6, k2tog, k2, ssk, k6. 16 sts.
  6. Rnds 10-18: k all 16 sts in green.
  7. Change to turquoise blue.
  8. Rnds 19-25: k all sts.
  9. Change to green.
  10. Rnds 26-27: k all sts.
  11. Change to turquoise blue.
  12. Rnds 28-34: k all sts.
  13. Change to darker teal.
  14. Rnd 35: k all sts.
  15. Change to turquoise blue.
  16. Rnds 36-42: k all sts.
  17. Change to green.
  18. Rnds 43-44: k all sts.
  19. Change to turquoise blue.
  20. Rnds 45-52: k all sts.
  21. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Stuff each leg evenly. Keep the feet rounded and the legs straight. Sew the legs to the lower front of the body, spaced about 1 inch apart. They should hang down below the dress hem.

Tail

The tail is attached behind the dress and curves to the doll’s right side. It is striped in turquoise and green, tapering to a rounded point.

  1. Using green yarn, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
  3. Rnd 2: repeat k1, kfb around. 12 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
  5. Rnd 4: repeat k2, kfb around. 16 sts.
  6. Rnds 5-10: k all sts in green.
  7. Change to turquoise blue.
  8. Rnds 11-17: k all sts.
  9. Change to green.
  10. Rnds 18-20: k all sts.
  11. Change to turquoise blue.
  12. Rnds 21-27: k all sts.
  13. Change to green.
  14. Rnds 28-30: k all sts.
  15. Change to turquoise blue.
  16. Rnds 31-37: k all sts.
  17. Change to green.
  18. Rnds 38-40: k all sts.
  19. Change to turquoise blue.
  20. Rnds 41-47: k all sts.
  21. Change to green.
  22. Rnds 48-50: k all sts.
  23. Change to turquoise blue.
  24. Rnds 51-57: k all sts.
  25. Rnd 58: repeat k6, k2tog twice. 14 sts.
  26. Rnds 59-63: k all sts.
  27. Rnd 64: repeat k5, k2tog twice. 12 sts.
  28. Rnds 65-69: k all sts.
  29. Rnd 70: repeat k4, k2tog twice. 10 sts.
  30. Stuff the tail as you work. Insert an optional folded pipe cleaner wrapped in stuffing.
  31. Rnd 71: repeat k3, k2tog twice. 8 sts.
  32. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and weave in.

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Sew the wide end of the tail to the back lower body, slightly to the doll’s right. Curve the tail outward and upward. Add a few hidden stitches to the dress back if you want the tail to hold its curled pose.

Denim Floral Dress

The dress is the largest clothing piece. It has a denim-blue skirt that flares outward, a center bib, shoulder straps with buttons, and tiny floral embroidery near the lower left side and chest.

Skirt Body

Work the skirt flat from the bottom hem upward. The bottom edge has a small textured border like the photo.

  1. Using denim blue yarn, CO 78 sts.
  2. Rows 1-4: k all sts for a garter stitch hem.
  3. Row 5 RS: k all sts.
  4. Row 6 WS: p all sts.
  5. Row 7: k8, k2tog, repeat k11, k2tog 5 times, k5. 72 sts.
  6. Rows 8-12: work in st st, purling WS rows and knitting RS rows.
  7. Row 13: k7, k2tog, repeat k10, k2tog 5 times, k5. 66 sts.
  8. Rows 14-20: work in st st.
  9. Row 21: k6, k2tog, repeat k9, k2tog 5 times, k4. 60 sts.
  10. Rows 22-28: work in st st.
  11. Row 29: k5, k2tog, repeat k8, k2tog 5 times, k4. 54 sts.
  12. Rows 30-36: work in st st.
  13. Row 37: k4, k2tog, repeat k7, k2tog 5 times, k4. 48 sts.
  14. Rows 38-42: work in st st.
  15. Row 43 RS: k all sts.
  16. Row 44 WS: k all sts to create a garter ridge waistline.
  17. BO 12 sts, k24 sts, BO 12 sts. Keep the center 24 sts live for the bib.

Bib Front

  1. With the 24 center sts on the needle, work Row 1 WS: p all sts.
  2. Row 2 RS: k2, p2, k16, p2, k2.
  3. Row 3 WS: p2, k2, p16, k2, p2.
  4. Repeat Rows 2-3 until the bib measures 1.75 inches from the waist ridge.
  5. Next RS row: k2, p2, ssk, k12, k2tog, p2, k2. 22 sts.
  6. Next WS row: work stitches as established.
  7. Next RS row: k2, p2, ssk, k10, k2tog, p2, k2. 20 sts.
  8. Work 3 more rows as established.
  9. BO all sts.

Seam the back of the skirt from hem to waist, leaving the upper 3/4 inch open so the dress can slide over the body. Place the seam at the center back. Fit the dress over the body before attaching arms, or slide it carefully over the legs and tail if the limbs are already sewn.

Shoulder Straps

  1. Using denim blue yarn, CO 6 sts.
  2. Rows 1-24: k all sts for a garter stitch strap.
  3. BO all sts.
  4. Make a second strap the same way.
  5. Sew one end of each strap to the top back waist of the dress.
  6. Bring straps over the shoulders and sew the front ends to the upper bib corners.
  7. Sew one tan button on top of each front strap end.

Dress Pocket Texture

The upper bib in the image has a slightly textured stitched area. Add this with a small false pocket panel.

  1. Using denim blue, CO 12 sts.
  2. Rows 1-2: k all sts.
  3. Row 3: k2, p8, k2.
  4. Row 4: k all sts.
  5. Repeat Rows 3-4 three more times.
  6. BO all sts.
  7. Sew this panel to the center bib, just below the buttons.

Floral Embroidery on Dress

The picture shows small garden flowers on the lower left skirt and tiny scattered flowers near the upper dress. Keep the embroidery delicate and colorful.

  • Large pink flower: make 5 lazy-daisy petals with pink yarn, each petal over 2 knitted stitches. Add a yellow French knot center.
  • Small red flower: make 4 straight stitches with red yarn around a yellow knot.
  • White daisy: make 6 short white lazy-daisy petals and a yellow center.
  • Green stems: use backstitch over 4 to 8 rows, curving upward from the hem.
  • Leaves: make single green detached chain stitches on both sides of the stems.
  • Chest flowers: add two tiny pink knots and two green leaf stitches on each side of the bib.

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Place the main flower cluster on the lower left front of the skirt, about 1 inch above the hem. Scatter three smaller flowers across the mid-skirt and chest, leaving plenty of denim blue showing.

Sandals

The sandals have tan soles, blue straps, and tiny pink flowers on top. They wrap around the green feet and should be sewn firmly so the doll can lie flat without losing them.

Tan Soles, Make Two

  1. Using tan yarn, CO 8 sts.
  2. Row 1: k all sts.
  3. Row 2: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
  4. Rows 3-8: k all sts.
  5. Row 9: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
  6. Rows 10-16: k all sts.
  7. Row 17: k2tog, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
  8. Row 18: k all sts.
  9. Row 19: k2tog, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
  10. BO all sts.

Blue Sandal Straps

  1. Using denim blue yarn, CO 4 sts.
  2. Rows 1-18: k all sts.
  3. BO all sts.
  4. Make four straps total, two for each sandal.
  5. Sew one strap across the toe area and one around the ankle of each green foot.
  6. Sew the tan sole under the foot, catching the strap ends inside the seam.

Small Pink Sandal Flowers

  1. Using pink yarn, CO 5 sts.
  2. BO all sts, leaving a long tail.
  3. Coil the tiny strip into a flower shape and secure with two stitches.
  4. Add a yellow center stitch.
  5. Make two flowers and sew one to each top strap.

Crossbody Bag

The bag is tan, small, and worn diagonally across the dress. It has a flap and a red ladybug detail on the front.

Bag Body

  1. Using tan yarn, CO 16 sts.
  2. Rows 1-4: k all sts.
  3. Rows 5-20: work in st st.
  4. Rows 21-24: k all sts.
  5. BO all sts.
  6. Fold the lower edge upward to form a pouch about 1.25 inches tall.
  7. Sew both side seams with tan yarn.

Bag Flap

  1. Using tan yarn, CO 14 sts.
  2. Rows 1-4: k all sts.
  3. Row 5: k2tog, k10, k2tog. 12 sts.
  4. Row 6: k all sts.
  5. Row 7: k2tog, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
  6. Row 8: k all sts.
  7. BO all sts.
  8. Sew the straight edge of the flap to the top back of the bag.

Bag Strap

  1. Using tan yarn, CO 4 sts.
  2. Work i-cord for 15 inches.
  3. BO and sew one end to each upper side of the bag.
  4. Place the strap from the left shoulder to the right hip, matching the image.
  5. Tack the strap to the shoulder and side of the dress with hidden stitches.

Ladybug on Bag

  1. Using red yarn, CO 6 sts.
  2. Row 1: k all sts.
  3. Row 2: p all sts.
  4. Row 3: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
  5. Row 4: p all sts.
  6. BO all sts.
  7. Sew the red oval to the bag flap.
  8. Use black yarn to add one vertical center line and two tiny spots on each side.
  9. Add one black stitch at the top for the head.

Straw Sunhat

The hat lies beside the doll in the image, but you can make it as a removable accessory. It has a wide tan brim, rounded crown, gray-blue band, and a white daisy.

Hat Crown

  1. Using straw beige yarn, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
  3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. 16 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: repeat k1, kfb around. 24 sts.
  5. Rnd 4: repeat k2, kfb around. 32 sts.
  6. Rnd 5: repeat k3, kfb around. 40 sts.
  7. Rnds 6-12: k all 40 sts.
  8. Rnd 13: p all sts for a brim fold line.

Hat Brim

  1. Rnd 14: repeat k4, kfb around. 48 sts.
  2. Rnd 15: k all sts.
  3. Rnd 16: repeat k5, kfb around. 56 sts.
  4. Rnd 17: k all sts.
  5. Rnd 18: repeat k6, kfb around. 64 sts.
  6. Rnds 19-22: work garter in the round by alternating 1 rnd knit and 1 rnd purl.
  7. BO loosely.

Hat Band and Daisy

  1. Using gray-blue yarn, embroider a band around the crown just above the brim fold.
  2. For the daisy, use white yarn to make 7 lazy-daisy petals on the brim.
  3. Add a yellow French knot center.
  4. Place the daisy on the front-left brim edge.

White Daisy on Head

The snake has a white daisy near the right eye bump. It sits slightly above the side of the head and adds a garden detail that matches the hat flower.

  1. Using white yarn, make 6 lazy-daisy petals directly on the head beside the right eye.
  2. Each petal should cover about 2 stitches in length.
  3. Add a yellow center using 3 small French knots.
  4. Secure yarn tails inside the head with a long needle.

Mini Watering Can

The watering can is a separate gray accessory with pale blue stripes. It has a rounded body, spout, and handle.

Can Body

  1. Using gray yarn, CO 24 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnds 1-3: k all sts in gray.
  3. Rnd 4: k all sts in pale blue.
  4. Rnds 5-8: k all sts in gray.
  5. Rnd 9: k all sts in pale blue.
  6. Rnds 10-14: k all sts in gray.
  7. Rnd 15: repeat k2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
  8. Rnd 16: repeat k1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
  9. Stuff lightly.
  10. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, and close.

Spout

  1. Using gray yarn, CO 8 sts and work i-cord for 1.5 inches.
  2. For the rose at the spout end, increase by working kfb in each stitch. 16 sts.
  3. Knit 1 rnd.
  4. BO loosely.
  5. Sew the narrow end to the side of the can at a slight upward angle.

Handle

  1. Using gray yarn, CO 5 sts.
  2. Work i-cord for 3.25 inches.
  3. Sew one end near the upper side of the can and the other near the lower side.
  4. Curve the handle outward before securing the second end.

Mini Garden Trowel

The small trowel has a gray blade, pale blue collar, and brown handle. It sits beside the watering can in the photo.

Trowel Blade

  1. Using gray yarn, CO 6 sts.
  2. Row 1: k all sts.
  3. Row 2: p all sts.
  4. Row 3: kfb, k4, kfb. 8 sts.
  5. Row 4: p all sts.
  6. Row 5: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
  7. Rows 6-10: work in st st.
  8. Row 11: ssk, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
  9. Row 12: p all sts.
  10. Row 13: ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
  11. BO all sts.

Handle

  1. Using brown yarn, CO 5 sts.
  2. Work i-cord for 2 inches.
  3. Wrap pale blue yarn around the join area 4 times to form a collar.
  4. Sew the handle to the narrow end of the blade.

Optional Shirt Chest Panel

A striped shirt peeks out above the dress and under the straps. If your dress neckline hides too much of the body, add this small striped panel behind the bib.

  1. Using cream yarn, CO 26 sts.
  2. Row 1: k all sts in cream.
  3. Row 2: p all sts in cream.
  4. Row 3: k all sts in coral.
  5. Row 4: p all sts in coral.
  6. Row 5: k all sts in cream.
  7. Row 6: p all sts in cream.
  8. Row 7: k all sts in mint.
  9. Row 8: p all sts in mint.
  10. Row 9: k all sts in cream.
  11. Row 10: p all sts in cream.
  12. Row 11: k all sts in light blue.
  13. Row 12: p all sts in light blue.
  14. BO all sts.
  15. Sew the panel across the upper body before placing the dress over it.

Joining the Doll

Before final sewing, lay all pieces on a flat surface in the same arrangement as the image. The head should be centered above the body. The arms should angle slightly downward. The legs should be straight and parallel. The tail should appear from behind the dress on the right side.

  1. Sew the neck securely to the top of the body.
  2. Sew the head to the neck, making sure the tongue falls at the front center.
  3. Slide the dress over the body and adjust the bib to the front.
  4. Sew the dress back seam closed around the body, leaving room for the tail.
  5. Sew the arms to the sides of the upper body, just under the shoulder straps.
  6. Sew the legs to the lower body, checking that the dress hem sits above the knees.
  7. Sew the tail to the back right lower body, behind the dress opening.
  8. Attach the bag strap diagonally across the front.
  9. Add sandals, buttons, flowers, and final embroidery.

Detailed Shaping Tips

For the head, use both hands to mold the stuffing while the final stitches are still open. Push stuffing toward the upper front so the eye bumps sit proudly. Keep the lower jaw softer, because the mouth line and tongue look better when the lower face is not overstuffed.

For the dress, block it gently before sewing if the skirt curls. Pin the hem into a soft A-line shape and mist lightly with water. Let it dry completely. Do not stretch the bib too much, because the buttons should remain high and close to the neck.

For the tail, shape the curve gradually. A sharp bend will not match the gentle curl in the picture. If using a pipe cleaner, fold both ends inward and wrap them with stuffing so no wire end can poke through the knitting.

How to Place the Accessories

  • Hat: place beside the doll or lightly tack it near the side of the head if you prefer it worn.
  • Head daisy: sew beside the right eye bump, slightly forward.
  • Bag: place the bag at the doll’s right hip, with strap crossing from left shoulder to right side.
  • Watering can: keep as a loose prop or sew a small loop to the doll’s hand.
  • Trowel: use as a loose garden accessory beside the watering can.
  • Dress flowers: concentrate the largest cluster on the lower left front skirt.

Beginner-Friendly Tips

If you are new to knitted toys, count stitches often. Small shaping rounds can shift quickly, especially on the head, eyes, hands, and tail tip. Use a removable marker at the start of every round and write down each completed round before moving on.

When sewing limbs, use several pins first. Check the doll from the front, back, and side before stitching permanently. The image has a balanced handmade look, so the arms should be even but not stiff. A slight downward angle makes the doll softer and more natural.

For embroidery, begin with only a few flowers. Add more after you step back and look at the whole dress. The denim area should not be completely covered. The charm comes from small garden details scattered across a plain blue dress.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

  • Check that the two white eye bumps are even and firmly sewn.
  • Make sure the black pupils face forward and slightly upward.
  • Smooth the mouth line so it curves gently across the lower face.
  • Secure the red forked tongue at the exact center below the mouth.
  • Tack the dress straps flat and sew the buttons directly above the bib corners.
  • Adjust the crossbody bag so it rests on the right side of the skirt.
  • Curve the tail to the right and add hidden stitches if needed.

Care Notes

Spot clean the finished doll with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid soaking if you used buttons, safety eyes, or a pipe cleaner inside the tail. Let the doll air dry flat on a towel, reshaping the head, dress hem, and tail while damp.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head is round, green, and slightly wider at the upper face.
  • White eye bumps are placed close together on top of the head.
  • Red forked tongue hangs at the center front.
  • Arms, legs, and tail show clear turquoise and green stripes.
  • Denim dress has a flared skirt, bib, straps, and tan buttons.
  • Floral embroidery is visible on the lower left dress front.
  • Sandals have tan soles, blue straps, and pink flowers.
  • Bag crosses the body diagonally and has a red ladybug on the flap.
  • Hat, watering can, and trowel are completed as matching props.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the knitted snake doll away from strong sunlight to protect the bright green, turquoise, and denim-blue colors. Keep the small accessories in a soft cloth bag if they are not sewn to the doll. This prevents the hat, watering can, and trowel from getting flattened or misplaced.

To refresh the shape, gently steam near the dress and hat without pressing the iron onto the yarn. Use your fingers to lift the brim, smooth the straps, and round the eye bumps. Allow everything to cool and dry before handling again.

If the doll will be displayed for a long time, support the tail curve with a small hidden stitch or a soft display surface. Avoid hanging the doll by the arms or bag strap, because this can stretch the knitted fabric and change the proportions over time.

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