Crochet Tutorial: Sid the Sloth Amigurumi in Striped Overalls – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Tutorial: Sid the Sloth Amigurumi in Striped Overalls – Free Crochet Pattern

This cheerful Sid the Sloth amigurumi is designed with a long beige neck, wide round eyes, a soft brown nose, a big stitched smile, and sweet little white teeth. He wears earthy striped overalls with shoulder straps, tiny buttons, a front flower pocket, leafy sandals, and a small pink flower on his head. The full set also includes a sunflower hat, hanging basket, watering can, and tiny potted sprout.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

  • Main sloth: about 11.5 inches tall from feet to top of head flower.
  • Head width: about 4.75 inches across including eye bumps.
  • Body with overalls: about 5.5 inches from under neck to bottom of shorts.
  • Hat: about 4.25 inches wide.
  • Watering can: about 3.25 inches long from spout to handle.
  • Basket: about 2.25 inches tall, not including handle.
  • Pot: about 1.5 inches tall.

Skill Level

Advanced beginner to intermediate. This pattern uses simple amigurumi shaping, color changes, small appliques, embroidery, and careful assembly. The most important part is placing the eyes, neck, straps, and facial details accurately so the finished toy has the same playful look as the image.

Materials

  • Sport weight or light DK cotton yarn in warm beige for head, neck, body, arms, legs, and face.
  • Small amount of cream yarn for eye whites and overall stripe details.
  • Light tan yarn for hat center, hat brim, sandal soles, and basket lower section.
  • Medium brown yarn for nose, hat band, basket top, pot soil, sandal flowers, and embroidered accents.
  • Olive green yarn for overall stripes, straps, leaves, sandals, and plant sprout.
  • Rust brown yarn for overall stripes, pot, basket details, and flower accents.
  • Soft gray-brown yarn for darker overall stripes.
  • White yarn for teeth, claws, and small flower petals.
  • Yellow yarn for sunflower petals and flower centers.
  • Soft pink yarn for head flower petals.
  • Small amount of pale blue or white yarn for the single side tooth highlight if desired.
  • Two 14 mm black safety eyes or glossy black button-style eyes.
  • Two small tan buttons, about 8 mm, for overall straps.
  • 2.25 mm crochet hook for the amigurumi body.
  • 2.0 mm crochet hook for small flowers, leaves, claws, and details.
  • Fiberfill stuffing.
  • Yarn needle.
  • Stitch markers.
  • Embroidery needle and black or dark brown embroidery thread for the smile.
  • Optional craft wire for watering can handle and spout only, not for toys intended for small children.
  • Pins for positioning pieces before sewing.

Abbreviations in US Crochet Terms

  • MR: magic ring
  • ch: chain
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • tr: treble crochet
  • inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
  • dec: invisible single crochet decrease
  • BLO: back loop only
  • FLO: front loop only
  • st: stitch
  • sts: stitches
  • R: round
  • FO: fasten off

Gauge and Texture Notes

Work the main toy tightly so the stuffing does not show. With a 2.25 mm hook and light DK cotton yarn, 8 sc across should measure about 1 inch. Exact gauge is less important than consistent tension, but the neck must be firm enough to support the wide head.

The pictured sloth has compact, visible spiral stitches. Do not use a hook that makes loose holes. If your stitches look open, go down one hook size. Stuff the body and head firmly, but keep the arms and lower legs slightly softer so they hang naturally.

Color Layout for the Striped Overalls

The overalls are worked directly onto the lower body and legs using narrow earthy stripes. The image shows muted green, cream, tan, rust, and gray-brown bands. Keep the colors soft and slightly vintage so the overalls look handmade and garden-themed.

  • Stripe A: olive green
  • Stripe B: cream
  • Stripe C: rust brown
  • Stripe D: gray-brown
  • Stripe E: light tan

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Main Head

The head is wide and oval with the eyes sitting on raised side bumps. The face should look stretched horizontally, with the brown nose centered slightly above the smile. Work in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise.

Head Base in Warm Beige

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
  5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
  6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.
  7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat 6 times. 42 sts.
  8. R8: sc 6, inc; repeat 6 times. 48 sts.
  9. R9: sc 7, inc; repeat 6 times. 54 sts.
  10. R10: sc 8, inc; repeat 6 times. 60 sts.
  11. R11-R16: sc around. 60 sts for 6 rounds.
  12. R17: sc 18, inc, sc 20, inc, sc 20. 62 sts.
  13. R18-R20: sc around. 62 sts for 3 rounds.
  14. R21: sc 8, dec; repeat 6 times, then sc 2. 56 sts.
  15. R22: sc 5, dec; repeat 8 times. 48 sts.
  16. R23: sc 4, dec; repeat 8 times. 40 sts.
  17. R24: sc 3, dec; repeat 8 times. 32 sts.
  18. R25: sc 2, dec; repeat 8 times. 24 sts.
  19. R26: sc 1, dec; repeat 8 times. 16 sts.

Stuff the head very firmly, especially across the cheeks. Keep the bottom opening slightly oval from front to back because the long neck will be sewn into it. FO with a long tail for sewing.

Eye Bumps and Eye Whites

The eye bumps are positioned high and wide on the sides of the head. They should angle outward slightly, giving the sloth the funny, open-eyed expression shown in the image. Make two beige eye sockets and two cream eye whites.

Beige Eye Bumps, Make 2

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
  5. R5-R6: sc around. 24 sts for 2 rounds.
  6. R7: sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  7. R8: sc around. 18 sts.

Stuff lightly. Do not close the opening. FO with a long tail. Flatten the opening into a slight oval before sewing.

Cream Eye Whites, Make 2

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
  5. R5: sl st in next st, FO, leaving a long tail.

Insert one black safety eye into the center of each cream eye white before sewing if using safety eyes. If using buttons, sew them on after the cream circles are attached. Sew the cream eye white onto the front face of each beige eye bump, keeping the black eye slightly toward the lower inner side.

Long Neck

The neck is narrow, tall, and slightly wider at the bottom than at the top. It should hold the head high above the overalls. Stuff it firmly in small layers to avoid bending.

Neck in Warm Beige

  1. R1: 8 sc in MR. 8 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 16 sts.
  3. R3: sc 3, inc; repeat 4 times. 20 sts.
  4. R4-R8: sc around. 20 sts for 5 rounds.
  5. R9: sc 4, inc; repeat 4 times. 24 sts.
  6. R10-R18: sc around. 24 sts for 9 rounds.
  7. R19: sc 5, inc; repeat 4 times. 28 sts.
  8. R20-R22: sc around. 28 sts for 3 rounds.

Stuff firmly. FO with a very long tail for sewing to both body and head. The top of the neck should sit inside the head opening by about 0.5 inch.

Body Base and Overalls

The body is slim under the overalls, with the lower portion forming wide striped shorts. You will begin in beige for the upper chest, then change to striped overall colors. The overalls should start just under the arms and cover the body and legs.

Upper Body and Torso

  1. With warm beige, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
  5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
  6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.
  7. R7-R10: sc around. 36 sts for 4 rounds.
  8. Change to olive green. R11: BLO sc around. 36 sts.
  9. R12: with cream, sc around. 36 sts.
  10. R13: with olive green, sc around. 36 sts.
  11. R14: with cream, sc around. 36 sts.
  12. R15: with rust brown, sc around. 36 sts.
  13. R16: with gray-brown, sc around. 36 sts.
  14. R17: with cream, sc around. 36 sts.
  15. R18: with olive green, sc 5, inc; repeat 6 times. 42 sts.
  16. R19: with light tan, sc around. 42 sts.
  17. R20: with gray-brown, sc around. 42 sts.
  18. R21: with cream, sc around. 42 sts.
  19. R22: with olive green, sc 6, inc; repeat 6 times. 48 sts.
  20. R23: with rust brown, sc around. 48 sts.
  21. R24: with cream, sc around. 48 sts.

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Stuff the body as you go. Keep the upper body slim, but stuff the lower overall area round and smooth. Do not overstuff the crotch opening because the legs must join cleanly.

Divide for Shorts Legs

Flatten the body with the front facing you. Count 24 stitches for the right leg and 24 stitches for the left leg. Place markers at the center front and center back. The shorts should look like two soft rounded pant legs.

Right Shorts Leg

  1. With olive green, sc 24 around the first leg opening. 24 sts.
  2. R2: with light tan, sc around. 24 sts.
  3. R3: with gray-brown, sc around. 24 sts.
  4. R4: with cream, sc around. 24 sts.
  5. R5: with olive green, sc around. 24 sts.
  6. R6: with rust brown, sc around. 24 sts.
  7. R7: with cream, sc around. 24 sts.
  8. R8: with olive green, sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  9. R9: with cream, BLO sc around. 18 sts.
  10. FO and weave in end.

Left Shorts Leg

  1. Join olive green at the center front of the second opening. R1: sc 24 around. 24 sts.
  2. R2: with light tan, sc around. 24 sts.
  3. R3: with gray-brown, sc around. 24 sts.
  4. R4: with cream, sc around. 24 sts.
  5. R5: with olive green, sc around. 24 sts.
  6. R6: with rust brown, sc around. 24 sts.
  7. R7: with cream, sc around. 24 sts.
  8. R8: with olive green, sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  9. R9: with cream, BLO sc around. 18 sts.
  10. FO and weave in end.

Overall Bib

The bib is the rectangular panel on the front chest. It has narrow decorative rows and little embroidered flower-like details. Work it separately and sew it onto the front of the body, from the waistline up to just below the neck.

Front Bib Panel

  1. With cream, ch 17.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 16 sts.
  3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts.
  4. Row 3: change to olive green, ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts.
  5. Row 4: change to cream, ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts.
  6. Row 5: change to rust brown, ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts.
  7. Row 6: change to light tan, ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts.
  8. Row 7: change to cream, ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts.
  9. Row 8: change to olive green, ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts.
  10. Row 9: change to cream, ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts.
  11. Border: sc evenly around the panel, placing 2 sc in each corner. FO with long tail.

Using rust brown yarn, embroider three small vertical flower buds across Row 4. Make each bud with one straight stitch over 1 row. Add tiny green leaves by stitching two diagonal lines beside each bud.

Overall Straps, Make 2

  1. With olive green, ch 25.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 24 sts.
  3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. 24 sts.
  4. FO with a long tail.

Sew each strap to the top corner of the bib, cross it slightly over the shoulder area, and attach it to the back waistline. Sew one small tan button at the front top of each strap. The buttons should sit just above the bib corners.

Legs and Feet

The legs are beige and visible below the shorts. The feet are sandal-shaped with white toes. The sandals sit flat and wide, helping the sloth stand or sit with balance.

Legs in Warm Beige, Make 2

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 3, inc; repeat 3 times. 15 sts.
  4. R4-R13: sc around. 15 sts for 10 rounds.
  5. Stuff lightly to medium firmness.
  6. R14: sc around. 15 sts.
  7. FO with long tail.

Sew one leg into each shorts opening. Push the top of the beige leg about 0.25 inch inside the shorts, then sew around the cream cuff so the leg looks like it comes out from the overalls.

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Feet in Warm Beige, Make 2

  1. R1: ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch. Work on opposite side: sc 4, inc in last st. 14 sts.
  2. R2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. 20 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 26 sts.
  4. R4-R5: sc around. 26 sts for 2 rounds.
  5. R6: sc 7, dec 6 times, sc 7. 20 sts.
  6. R7: sc 6, dec 4 times, sc 6. 16 sts.
  7. R8: sc around. 16 sts.

Stuff the front of each foot firmly and the heel lightly. FO with long tail. Sew the top of each foot to the bottom of one leg, angling the toes forward and slightly outward.

White Toes, Make 6

  1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
  2. R2: sc around. 5 sts.
  3. FO with long tail.

Sew three white toes onto the front of each foot. Place the center toe first, then place one toe on each side. The toes should sit in a rounded row across the front edge.

Sandals

The sandals are light tan soles with olive green straps and small brown flower accents. They should wrap around the feet without hiding the white toes.

Sandal Sole Trim, Make 2

  1. With light tan, ch 9.
  2. Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work opposite side: sc 6, inc in last st. 18 sts.
  3. Round 2: sc 1, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 6, inc. 22 sts.
  4. FO with long tail.

Sew each sole trim under the foot, letting the beige foot show slightly at the edges. Use small stitches and do not pull too tightly, so the sole remains flat.

Green Sandal Straps, Make 2

  1. With olive green, ch 13.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 12 sts.
  3. FO with long tail.

Sew one strap across the top of each foot, behind the row of white toes. The strap should curve gently from one side of the sole to the other.

Tiny Brown Sandal Flowers, Make 2

  1. With rust brown, make MR.
  2. Into MR work: ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, sl st. Repeat 3 more times for 4 petals.
  3. Pull ring closed and FO.

Sew one flower onto the outer side of each sandal strap. Add one tiny olive leaf beside each flower with a single chain leaf or embroidered stitch.

Arms and White Claws

The arms are long, narrow, and slightly rounded at the hands. They hang down beside the body, with small white claws at the ends. The upper arm joins just below the shoulder line of the overalls.

Arms in Warm Beige, Make 2

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 3, inc; repeat 3 times. 15 sts.
  4. R4-R8: sc around. 15 sts for 5 rounds.
  5. R9: sc 3, dec; repeat 3 times. 12 sts.
  6. R10-R23: sc around. 12 sts for 14 rounds.
  7. Stuff the lower hand firmly and the upper arm lightly.
  8. R24: flatten opening and sc 6 through both layers.
  9. FO with long tail.

White Hand Claws, Make 6

  1. With white, ch 4.
  2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, sl st in last ch.
  3. FO with tails for sewing.

Sew three claws to the end of each hand. Keep them short and rounded, not sharp. Sew the arms to the sides of the upper body at R8-R10, angling them downward so they frame the overalls.

Nose and Smile

The nose is a raised brown circle centered on the face. It sits between the eyes, slightly above the smile line. The smile is long and curved, stretching almost from cheek to cheek.

Round Brown Nose

  1. With medium brown, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  4. R4: sc around. 18 sts.
  5. R5: sc 1, dec; repeat 6 times. 12 sts.

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Stuff very lightly so the nose is domed but not bulky. FO with long tail. Sew the nose to the center front of the head, about 2 rounds below the inner edges of the eyes.

Embroidered Smile

  1. Thread a yarn needle with dark brown embroidery thread.
  2. Mark the smile starting 8 stitches to the left of the nose and ending 8 stitches to the right.
  3. Make a shallow curved line using backstitch or couching stitches.
  4. Let the lowest point of the curve sit about 5 rounds below the bottom of the nose.
  5. Add one tiny upward stitch at each end to create the happy expression.

Single White Side Tooth

  1. With white, ch 5.
  2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in last ch. 4 sts.
  3. FO with long tail.

Sew this little tooth under the left side of the smile, just below the cheek. It should look like a soft flat white tooth peeking from the grin.

Head Flower and Leaves

The small flower on top of the head is pink with a yellow center and green leaves. It sits near the top right side of the head, close to one eye bump, not exactly centered.

Pink Flower

  1. With yellow, R1: 6 sc in MR. Sl st to first sc. FO.
  2. Join pink in any stitch.
  3. Petal 1: ch 2, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st.
  4. Repeat one petal in each remaining stitch for 6 petals total.
  5. FO with long tail.

Green Leaves, Make 3

  1. With olive green, ch 7.
  2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st in last ch.
  3. FO with tail.

Sew the leaves first, fanning them out behind the flower. Then sew the pink flower on top. Angle the flower slightly forward so it can be seen from the front.

Front Overall Pocket with Flowers

The small pocket is sewn onto the lower right side of the overalls. It has a cream base, green trim, and tiny flowers in yellow, rust, and white. It gives the outfit the garden look from the image.

Cream Pocket

  1. With cream, ch 9.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 8 sts.
  3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. 8 sts.
  4. Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across. 8 sts.
  5. Row 4: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 4, dec. 6 sts.
  6. Border: with olive green, sc evenly around sides and bottom only. FO with long tail.

Tiny Pocket Flowers

  • Yellow bud: ch 3, sl st in first ch, FO.
  • Rust flower: MR, ch 1, work 5 sc in ring, sl st, FO.
  • White petal: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in next ch, sl st in last ch, FO.
  • Green stems: embroider three straight vertical stitches on the pocket.
  • Brown leaves: embroider two diagonal stitches on each side of the stems.

Sew the pocket to the viewer’s right side of the overalls, around the hip area. Leave the top edge slightly open if desired, but secure the corners well.

Sunflower Hat

The hat is a wide straw-style garden hat with a raised crown, wide brim, brown band, green leaves, and a yellow sunflower on one side. It is an accessory and does not need to be attached to the sloth.

Hat Crown in Light Tan

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
  5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
  6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.
  7. R7: BLO sc around. 36 sts.
  8. R8-R11: sc around. 36 sts for 4 rounds.
  9. FO and weave in end.

Hat Brim

  1. Join light tan to the front loops left from R7 of the crown.
  2. R1: FLO sc around. 36 sts.
  3. R2: sc 2, inc; repeat 12 times. 48 sts.
  4. R3: sc 3, inc; repeat 12 times. 60 sts.
  5. R4: sc 4, inc; repeat 12 times. 72 sts.
  6. R5: sc 5, inc; repeat 12 times. 84 sts.
  7. R6: sc around. 84 sts.
  8. R7: reverse sc around for a firm edge, or sc around if reverse sc is difficult. FO.

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Brown Hat Band

  1. With medium brown, ch 39.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 38 sts.
  3. FO with tail.

Wrap the band around the base of the crown and sew the ends together at the back. Tack the band down with a few stitches so it does not slide.

Sunflower for Hat

  1. With dark brown, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  4. Join yellow. In each stitch around work: ch 3, dc in same st, ch 3, sl st in same st.
  5. Repeat for 18 small petals. FO.

Hat Leaves, Make 2

  1. With olive green, ch 8.
  2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st.
  3. FO with tail.

Sew the sunflower to one side of the hat brim and crown area, with the leaves tucked behind it. The flower should sit slightly forward, just like a garden hat decoration.

Hanging Basket Accessory

The basket is shaped like an acorn or small garden pouch. The lower part is tan, the top is brown, and the long handle is brown. Add one green sprout on top to match the image.

Basket Base in Light Tan

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: sc around. 6 sts.
  3. R3: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  4. R4: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  5. R5: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
  6. R6-R9: sc around. 24 sts for 4 rounds.
  7. R10: sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  8. Stuff lightly.
  9. Change to medium brown. R11: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
  10. R12-R14: sc around. 18 sts for 3 rounds.
  11. R15: sc 1, dec; repeat 6 times. 12 sts.
  12. FO, leaving a small opening at the top.

Basket Handle

  1. With medium brown, ch 42.
  2. Row 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across. 41 sts.
  3. FO with long tails.

Sew each end of the handle to the brown basket rim. Curve the handle upward so it forms a tall loop.

Basket Sprout

  1. With olive green, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next 3 ch. This is the stem.
  2. Leaf 1: ch 6, sc in 2nd ch, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st back to top of stem.
  3. Leaf 2: ch 6, sc in 2nd ch, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st back to stem.
  4. FO with long tail.

Sew the sprout into the top opening of the basket. Add a few brown stitches around the base to look like soil.

Watering Can Accessory

The watering can is small and beige-gray with a curved handle and short spout. Work tightly so it keeps its shape. If the can is for display only, a little craft wire can be inserted into the handle and spout.

Watering Can Body

  1. With beige-gray or warm beige, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
  5. R5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
  6. R6-R10: sc around. 24 sts for 5 rounds.
  7. R11: sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  8. R12: sc 1, dec; repeat 6 times. 12 sts.
  9. Stuff lightly.
  10. R13: dec around. 6 sts.
  11. FO and close.

Watering Can Neck

  1. With same color, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3-R4: sc around. 12 sts.
  4. FO with long tail.

Sew the neck onto the upper side of the can body, slightly off center. It should look like a small open top.

Watering Can Spout

  1. With same color, R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
  2. R2: sc around. 5 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 3. 6 sts.
  4. R4-R8: sc around. 6 sts for 5 rounds.
  5. R9: sc 2, inc; repeat 2 times. 8 sts.
  6. R10: sc around. 8 sts.
  7. FO with long tail.

Stuff the spout very lightly or leave it unstuffed. Sew it to the side of the can body, pointing outward and slightly upward.

Watering Can Handle

  1. With same color, ch 24.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 23 sts.
  3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. 23 sts.
  4. FO with long tail.

Curve the handle into a C shape and sew one end near the top back of the can and the other end near the lower back. If using wire, insert it before sewing the second edge closed.

Spout Rim in Pale Blue

  1. With pale blue, ch 9.
  2. Join with sl st to form a small ring.
  3. R1: sc 10 evenly around the ring.
  4. FO with tail.

Sew the rim to the wide end of the spout. This small blue edge matches the cool-toned detail visible on the watering can.

Tiny Potted Sprout

The pot is rust brown with a darker soil top and two bright green leaves. It sits beside the sloth as a garden accessory.

Terracotta Pot

  1. With rust brown, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  4. R4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
  5. R5: sc around. 18 sts.
  6. R6: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
  7. R7-R8: sc around. 24 sts for 2 rounds.
  8. R9: FLO sc around for rim. 24 sts.
  9. FO and weave in end.

Soil Disk

  1. With dark brown, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
  4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
  5. FO with long tail.

Lightly stuff the pot. Sew the soil disk inside the top rim, keeping it flat and slightly recessed.

Plant Leaves

  1. With green, ch 7.
  2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. FO. Make 2.
  3. For the stem, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch and across. FO.

Sew the stem to the center of the soil. Sew the two leaves at the top of the stem, angled outward like a young sprout.

Decorative Overall Surface Stitches

The overalls in the image have small raised texture rows. Add these after the body is complete. Use surface slip stitches or embroidery, depending on your comfort level.

  • Use cream yarn to add one horizontal dashed line across the upper bib.
  • Use rust brown yarn to add short vertical stitches across the chest band.
  • Use olive green yarn to outline the top edge of the shorts.
  • Use gray-brown yarn to add a few short stitches on the lower shorts stripes.
  • Keep every decorative stitch small, about 1 crochet stitch wide.

Assembly Order

  1. Sew the neck firmly to the top of the body. The neck should sit centered and vertical.
  2. Sew the head onto the top of the neck. Insert the neck slightly into the head opening before sewing.
  3. Sew the eye bumps to the left and right upper sides of the head. Place them wide apart and slightly angled outward.
  4. Sew the nose to the center of the face.
  5. Embroider the smile and attach the side tooth.
  6. Sew arms to the upper sides of the body.
  7. Sew legs into the shorts openings, then attach feet.
  8. Add toes, sandal soles, sandal straps, and sandal flowers.
  9. Sew the bib to the front of the overalls.
  10. Attach the straps and buttons.
  11. Sew the pocket and tiny pocket flowers onto the lower front right side.
  12. Add the head flower and leaves.
  13. Finish all accessories: hat, basket, watering can, and pot.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Pin every major piece before sewing. The expression depends on eye placement, so keep the eye bumps high and wide. The nose should sit centered, and the smile should curve gently under it. Do not make the smile too low, or the face will look sleepy instead of cheerful.

After the face is finished, check the sloth from the front and side. The head should lean only slightly forward. If it wobbles, add extra stitches through the base of the head, neck, and upper body until stable.

  • Eye bumps: sew between head rounds 9-17, one on each side.
  • Nose: center between the eyes, about 2 rounds below their inner edges.
  • Smile: start and end near the lower cheek line.
  • Tooth: place under the viewer’s left side of the smile.
  • Head flower: place on the upper right side of the head.

Care Notes

Spot clean the finished toy with cool water and mild soap. Avoid soaking if you used safety eyes, buttons, embroidery thread, or wire inside the accessories. Gently press with a towel and reshape while damp.

Let the pieces air dry completely before storing. Do not tumble dry, because heat can distort the stuffing, flatten the flowers, or loosen the carefully shaped accessories.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • The neck is firmly stuffed and sewn straight.
  • The eyes are wide, round, glossy, and level.
  • The nose is centered and softly raised.
  • The smile is curved, even, and secured with tiny stitches.
  • The overalls have visible green, cream, tan, rust, and gray-brown stripes.
  • The bib, straps, buttons, and pocket are attached neatly.
  • Each foot has three white toes and one sandal strap.
  • The hat includes a sunflower and leaves.
  • The basket has a handle and sprout.
  • The watering can has a handle, spout, and small rim.
  • The pot has dark soil and two green leaves.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store Sid the Sloth in a dry place away from direct sunlight. Cotton yarn can fade if displayed in strong light for long periods. Keep the flower, sunflower hat, basket handle, and watering can spout from being crushed under heavier items.

For dust, use a soft brush and work gently around the eyes, nose, flowers, and embroidered overalls. If the toy needs deeper cleaning, wipe only the surface and avoid rubbing the smile or pocket details.

If giving this amigurumi to a child, replace buttons and safety eyes with embroidered details. Do not use wire in the watering can. Sew every accessory securely or keep the small accessories as display pieces only.

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