Crochet Tutorial: Tweety Bird in Blue Striped Overalls – Free Crochet Pattern.

Crochet Tutorial: Tweety Bird in Blue Striped Overalls – Free Crochet Pattern.

This free crochet pattern guides you through making a bright yellow bird doll with a large rounded head, sweet cheek shaping, oversized embroidered eyes, orange beak, black head feathers, blue and white striped overalls, flower sandals, a sunflower crossbody purse, a straw garden hat, a tiny berry basket, and a small watering can. The finished doll is designed as a detailed amigurumi display piece with many cute garden-themed accessories.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

  • Using sport weight cotton yarn and a 2.25 mm hook, the finished doll measures about 10.5–11.5 inches tall from feet to top of head.
  • The head is intentionally oversized, about 4.25 inches wide, with a soft rounded-square cheek shape.
  • The overalls sit high on the body, with short legs, narrow shoulder straps, a front bib pocket, and horizontal blue-white stripes.
  • The removable straw hat measures about 4 inches across including the brim.

Skill Level

Intermediate amigurumi. The doll uses continuous rounds, color changes, shaping, embroidery, small sewn pieces, and accessory assembly. A confident beginner can make it by following each stitch count carefully and using stitch markers.

Materials

  • Sport weight cotton yarn in bright yellow, orange, black, turquoise blue, white, beige, brown, green, red, light blue, dark teal, and small amounts of pale lavender or light blue for the eye highlights.
  • 2.25 mm crochet hook for the doll and accessories.
  • 2.0 mm crochet hook for eyes, flowers, tiny details, and straps.
  • Fiberfill stuffing.
  • Tapestry needle.
  • Stitch markers.
  • Embroidery needle.
  • Two tiny tan buttons, about 6–8 mm wide, for the overall straps.
  • Optional: plastic safety eyes are not used in this design because the eyes are crocheted and embroidered for the large cartoon look.
  • Optional: pipe cleaner or floral wire for the black head feathers if the doll is for display only.

Abbreviations

  • MR = magic ring
  • ch = chain
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • tr = treble crochet
  • inc = 2 single crochet in the same stitch
  • dec = invisible single crochet decrease
  • BLO = back loop only
  • FLO = front loop only
  • st = stitch
  • sts = stitches
  • R = round or row
  • FO = fasten off

Gauge and Tension

For a firm amigurumi fabric, work 6 single crochet stitches and 7 rounds to about 1 inch. Exact gauge is less important than tight, even stitches. If stuffing shows through, use a smaller hook. If the fabric becomes stiff and hard to shape, loosen your tension slightly.

The doll in the reference has clean, compact stitches with no visible gaps. Keep the yellow head and body firm, but do not overstuff the cheeks, because the face needs a soft rounded shape rather than a hard ball.

Important Pattern Notes

  • Work most pieces in continuous spiral rounds unless the pattern says to join.
  • Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round.
  • Stuff the head, body, legs, and feet firmly. Stuff arms lightly so they hang naturally.
  • For color changes in the overalls, finish the last yarn-over of the stitch with the new color.
  • When sewing facial pieces, pin everything first. The doll’s expression depends on correct eye placement, cheek position, lashes, brows, and beak angle.
  • The large head should sit slightly forward on a narrow neck, creating the sweet garden-doll posture shown in the photo.

Main Doll Pattern

Head

Use bright yellow yarn and the 2.25 mm hook. The head is large, rounded, and slightly wider across the cheeks than at the top. Stuff gradually as you work.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
  6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
  7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
  8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (48)
  9. R9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. (54)
  10. R10: sc 8, inc, repeat around. (60)
  11. R11: sc 9, inc, repeat around. (66)
  12. R12: sc 10, inc, repeat around. (72)
  13. R13–R21: sc around. (72)
  14. R22: sc 16, inc, sc 36, inc, sc 18. (74)
  15. R23–R24: sc around. (74)
  16. R25: sc 18, inc, sc 36, inc, sc 18. (76)
  17. R26–R29: sc around. (76)
  18. R30: sc 17, dec, sc 36, dec, sc 17. (74)
  19. R31: sc 10, dec, repeat 6 times, sc 2. (68)
  20. R32: sc 9, dec, repeat 6 times, sc 2. (62)
  21. R33: sc 8, dec, repeat 6 times, sc 2. (56)
  22. R34: sc 7, dec, repeat 7 times. (49)
  23. R35: sc 5, dec, repeat 7 times. (42)
  24. R36: sc 4, dec, repeat 7 times. (35)
  25. R37: sc 3, dec, repeat 7 times. (28)
  26. R38: sc 2, dec, repeat 7 times. (21)

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Pause here and stuff the head firmly at the top and sides. Shape the lower cheek area with your thumbs so the face looks broad and soft. Leave the opening for attaching to the neck. FO with a long tail.

Cheek Pads

Make 2 with yellow yarn. These soft raised cheek pads create the rounded lower face shown below the eyes.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  5. R5: sc around. (24)
  6. R6: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)

Stuff each cheek very lightly. Flatten slightly into an oval. Sew one cheek to each lower side of the face, beginning under the eye area and curving toward the beak. The inner edges should sit close together but not overlap.

Body

Use yellow yarn. The body is small compared with the head, with a narrow neck and rounded torso hidden partly by the overalls.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
  6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
  7. R7–R12: sc around. (36)
  8. R13: sc 4, dec, repeat around. (30)
  9. R14–R16: sc around. (30)
  10. R17: sc 3, dec, repeat around. (24)
  11. R18–R19: sc around. (24)
  12. R20: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
  13. R21–R23: sc around. (18)

Stuff the body firmly. FO with a long tail. Sew the body opening to the head opening, centering the face over the body. The head should lean forward slightly, not backward.

Legs

Make 2. Start with orange yarn for the bird feet and legs. The legs are slim, visible below the short overalls.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: BLO sc around. (12)
  4. R4–R13: sc around. (12)

Stuff the lower leg lightly. FO the first leg. Make the second leg but do not fasten off if you want to join legs directly to the body base. For this pattern, sew both legs under the body after the body is complete, spacing them about 5 stitches apart.

Three-Toe Feet

Make 2 feet with orange yarn. Each foot has three rounded front toes, visible inside the blue sandals.

Toe Bumps

Make 6 small toes.

  1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
  2. R2: inc around. (10)
  3. R3–R4: sc around. (10)

FO the first two toes for each foot. On the third toe, do not fasten off. Join the three toes together by crocheting 5 sc across the first toe, 5 sc across the second toe, and 10 sc around the third toe, then continue around the remaining sides of all toes for a total of 30 sts.

  1. Foot R1: sc around joined toes. (30)
  2. Foot R2: sc 3, dec, repeat around. (24)
  3. Foot R3: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
  4. Foot R4: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (12)
  5. Foot R5: sc around. (12)

Stuff the toes lightly. Sew one foot to the bottom of each leg, with the toe bumps pointing forward. The feet should be slightly wider than the legs.

Arms

Make 2 with yellow yarn. The arms are slim, rounded, and hang slightly outward from the sides.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (9)
  3. R3–R5: sc around. (9)
  4. R6: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (6)
  5. R7–R18: sc around. (6)

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Stuff only the hand area. Leave the upper arm mostly unstuffed so it bends naturally. Flatten the top and sc through both layers with 3 sc. FO with a long tail. Sew the arms to the body at R20, just below the head.

Orange Beak

The beak is small, pointed, and open-looking, with a top and lower section that form a little triangular mouth.

Upper Beak

  1. R1: With orange yarn, ch 5.
  2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 3. (9)
  3. R3: sc 3, inc in next 3 sts, sc 3. (12)
  4. R4: sc 4, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 4. (14)

FO with a long tail. Pin the upper beak between the cheek pads, centered below the eyes. Sew only the top and side edges, leaving the bottom edge slightly raised.

Lower Beak

  1. R1: With orange yarn, ch 4.
  2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 2, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 2. (7)
  3. R3: sc 2, inc in next 3 sts, sc 2. (10)

FO with a long tail. Sew the lower beak just under the upper beak so the two parts create a small open triangle. Add one short line of darker orange embroidery inside the mouth.

Large Crocheted Eyes

Make 2 eyes. The eyes are tall ovals with black centers, green and teal rings, pale blue outer areas, and white sparkle highlights. Use the 2.0 mm hook for neater detail.

Black Center

  1. R1: With black yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. R4: sc around. (18)

FO. Shape gently into an oval by stretching vertically.

Green Ring

Join green yarn to any stitch of the black center.

  1. R1: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  2. R2: sc around. (24)

FO. Keep the eye oval, not round.

Teal Ring and Blue Outer Eye

Join dark teal yarn.

  1. R1: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)

Change to light blue.

  1. R2: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
  2. R3: sc around. (36)

FO with a long tail. Pin eyes on the face between R16 and R28 of the head. The inner lower edges should sit close to the beak, and the top of each eye should tilt slightly outward for a sweet expression.

Eye Highlights

  • With white yarn, make 2 tiny French knots or 2 tiny 4-sc circles for each eye.
  • Place one larger highlight near the upper outer black area.
  • Place one smaller highlight slightly below it.
  • Sew firmly and hide ends inside the head.

Eyebrows and Eyelashes

Use black embroidery floss or thin black yarn. The lashes are long and curved, fanning outward from the upper outer edge of each eye.

  • For each eyebrow, embroider one curved line above the eye, about 2 rounds above the blue eye edge.
  • For each upper lash line, stitch one long curved line along the top outer eye edge.
  • Add 4 long lashes on each eye. Each lash should angle outward and slightly upward.
  • Add 2 shorter lower lashes if desired, keeping them delicate.

The face should look bright, gentle, and cheerful. Do not pull the embroidery too tightly, or the head will pucker.

Black Head Feathers

Make 3 feathers with black yarn. These stand upright from the top center of the head.

  • Feather 1: ch 12, starting in second ch from hook, sl st 11. FO.
  • Feather 2: ch 15, starting in second ch from hook, sl st 14. FO.
  • Feather 3: ch 13, starting in second ch from hook, sl st 12. FO.

For a thicker feather, repeat the same chain and work back with sc instead of sl st. Sew the three feathers to the top of the head at R2–R4, spacing them close together. The center feather should be tallest, with the side feathers leaning slightly outward.

Blue Striped Overalls

The overalls are worked separately and fitted over the body. They have short legs, blue and white horizontal stripes, a high bib, shoulder straps, tan buttons, and a small white flower on the front pocket.

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Overall Shorts: First Leg

Use turquoise blue yarn.

  1. R1: ch 24, join with sl st to form a ring, being careful not to twist. (24)
  2. R2: sc around. (24)
  3. R3: Change to white, sc around. (24)
  4. R4: Change to blue, sc around. (24)
  5. R5: Change to white, sc around. (24)
  6. R6: Change to blue, sc around. (24)
  7. R7: sc around in blue. (24)

FO the first leg. Make the second leg the same way, but do not fasten off after R7.

Join Overall Legs

  1. R8: With blue yarn still attached to second leg, ch 3, sc into first leg, sc 24 around first leg, sc 3 across one side of chain, sc 24 around second leg, sc 3 across other side of chain. (54)
  2. R9: Change to white, sc around. (54)
  3. R10: Change to blue, sc around. (54)
  4. R11: Change to white, sc around. (54)
  5. R12: Change to blue, sc around. (54)
  6. R13: sc 7, dec, repeat around. (48)
  7. R14: Change to white, sc around. (48)
  8. R15: Change to blue, sc around. (48)
  9. R16: sc 6, dec, repeat around. (42)
  10. R17: Change to white, sc around. (42)
  11. R18: Change to blue, sc around. (42)
  12. R19: sc around. (42)

Try the shorts on the body before fastening off. The waist should sit just below the arms. FO and weave in ends. If needed, add a drawstring-like chain inside the waist to tighten the fit.

Front Bib

Attach blue yarn at the front center of the waist, across 16 stitches.

  1. Row 1: sc 16 across the front waist. ch 1, turn. (16)
  2. Row 2: sc across. ch 1, turn. (16)
  3. Row 3: Change to white, sc across. ch 1, turn. (16)
  4. Row 4: Change to blue, sc across. ch 1, turn. (16)
  5. Row 5: sc 1, dec, sc 10, dec, sc 1. ch 1, turn. (14)
  6. Row 6: Change to white, sc across. ch 1, turn. (14)
  7. Row 7: Change to blue, sc across. ch 1, turn. (14)
  8. Row 8: sc across. FO. (14)

The bib should be centered on the chest and reach just below the neck. Sew the side edges lightly to the body of the overalls so it lies flat.

Shoulder Straps

Make 2 with blue yarn.

  1. Row 1: ch 25.
  2. Row 2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 24. FO with a long tail.

Sew each strap to the back waist, cross or angle it slightly over the shoulder, and bring it to the top front corners of the bib. Sew a tiny tan button over each front strap end.

Bib Pocket

Use blue yarn.

  1. Row 1: ch 10.
  2. Row 2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 9. ch 1, turn. (9)
  3. Row 3: sc across. ch 1, turn. (9)
  4. Row 4: sc 1, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 1. ch 1, turn. (7)
  5. Row 5: sc across. FO. (7)

Sew the pocket to the center front of the bib. Leave the top edge slightly open if you like a real pocket effect.

Small Daisy on Bib Pocket

Use white and yellow yarn with the 2.0 mm hook.

  1. Center: With yellow, 6 sc in MR, sl st to close. FO.
  2. Petals: Join white, ch 3, sl st in next st, repeat 6 times around. FO.

Sew the daisy to the middle of the pocket. Keep it small so it does not cover the pocket shape.

Blue Garden Sandals

The sandals wrap around the orange feet with blue soles, blue straps, and a white flower on each top strap.

Sandal Sole

Make 2 with white yarn first.

  1. R1: ch 9.
  2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 6, inc. (18)
  3. R3: inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. (24)

Change to blue.

  1. R4: BLO sc around. (24)
  2. R5: sc around. FO. (24)

Place each orange foot into a sole and sew around the edge, leaving the toes visible at the front.

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Sandal Straps

  • Front strap: With blue, ch 13, sc 12. Sew across the top of the toes.
  • Ankle strap: With blue, ch 16, sc 15. Sew around the back of the foot and attach at both side edges.

Flower for Sandals

Make 2 tiny daisies.

  1. With yellow, 5 sc in MR, sl st to close. FO.
  2. Join white, ch 2, sl st in same st, ch 2, sl st in next st, repeat around for 5 petals. FO.

Sew one daisy to the top of each front sandal strap.

Sunflower Crossbody Purse

The sunflower purse hangs from a brown diagonal strap across the body. The flower rests near one hip, matching the garden theme.

Sunflower Center

Use brown yarn and the 2.0 mm hook.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  5. R5: sc around. (24)

FO. Make a second brown circle the same way. Hold both circles together and sc around through both layers for 20 sts, leaving 4 sts open at the top if you want a pouch. FO.

Sunflower Petals

Join yellow yarn to any outer stitch of the flower center.

  1. Petal: ch 4, starting in second ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, sl st into next stitch of center.
  2. Repeat around until you have 12 petals.

The petals should be full and slightly ruffled. Add extra petals in skipped spaces if your flower looks too flat.

Purse Strap

Use brown yarn.

  1. Ch 70, or enough to cross from one shoulder to the opposite hip.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st across for a cord-like strap.

Sew one strap end to the upper left side of the sunflower and the other end to the upper right side. Place the strap diagonally across the doll after the overalls are on.

Straw Garden Hat

The hat is beige with a rounded crown, wide brim, blue band, and small sunflower decoration. Work firmly so the brim holds its shape.

Hat Crown

Use beige yarn and 2.25 mm hook.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
  6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
  7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
  8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (48)
  9. R9: BLO sc around. (48)
  10. R10–R17: sc around. (48)

Hat Brim

  1. R18: FLO sc 3, inc, repeat around. (60)
  2. R19: sc around. (60)
  3. R20: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (72)
  4. R21: sc around. (72)
  5. R22: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (84)
  6. R23: sc around. (84)
  7. R24: crab stitch or reverse sc around for a firm edge. FO.

Shape the brim gently with your fingers. The brim should curl slightly downward at the sides and remain rounded, like the garden hat in the photo.

Blue Hat Band

Use blue yarn.

  1. Ch 58, or enough to fit around the base of the crown.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc across. FO.

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Wrap the band around the hat where the crown meets the brim. Sew neatly at the back. You may also crochet directly around the hat with surface slip stitches if you prefer.

Small Hat Sunflower

Make one small sunflower with brown center, yellow petals, and two blue leaves.

  1. Center: With brown, 6 sc in MR, sl st to close. FO.
  2. Petals: Join yellow, ch 3, sl st in next st, repeat 8 times around. FO.
  3. Leaves: With blue, ch 5, sc 1, hdc 2, sl st 1 back along the chain. Make 2.

Sew the flower to one side of the blue hat band. Sew the blue leaves behind the flower so they peek out from both sides.

Small Sunflower Hair Clip

The doll also has a tiny sunflower near the top side of the head. Make it smaller than the hat flower.

  1. With brown, 5 sc in MR. FO.
  2. Join yellow, ch 2, sl st in next st, repeat around for 8 small petals. FO.
  3. With blue, make 2 tiny leaves: ch 4, sc 1, hdc 1, sl st 1. FO.

Sew the small sunflower on the upper left side of the head, above the eye and slightly behind the front face line. Add the blue leaves behind the flower.

Tiny Berry Basket

The basket is beige, rounded, and filled with red berries and green leaves.

Basket Base

  1. R1: With beige, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. R4: BLO sc around. (18)
  5. R5–R8: sc around. (18)
  6. R9: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (12)

Stuff very lightly or leave hollow. FO and weave in ends.

Basket Handle

  • With beige, ch 22.
  • Starting in second ch from hook, sl st across.
  • Sew each end to opposite sides of the basket rim.

Berries

Make 5 tiny berries with red yarn.

  1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
  2. R2: sc around. (5)

FO. Sew berries into the basket opening. Add a few green leaf stitches between them with green yarn.

Tiny Watering Can

The watering can is beige with a round body, side handle, short spout, and pale rim. It is a decorative accessory and does not need to open.

Watering Can Body

  1. R1: With beige, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  5. R5–R8: sc around. (24)
  6. R9: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
  7. R10: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (12)
  8. R11: dec around. (6)

Stuff lightly. FO and close the opening.

Watering Can Top Neck

  1. R1: With beige, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: BLO sc around. (6)
  3. R3–R4: sc around. (6)

Sew the neck to the top of the body. Add one round of white or cream sc around the top edge if you want a pale rim.

Spout

  1. R1: With beige, ch 8.
  2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7. FO.

Roll the strip slightly and sew it into a narrow tube. Attach it to one side of the can, angled upward.

Handle

  • With beige, ch 18.
  • Starting in second ch from hook, sc 17.
  • Sew one end near the upper side of the can and one end near the lower side, forming a curved handle.

Optional Display Arrangement

The image shows the doll lying flat with the accessories placed around it. You can keep the hat removable, let the berry basket sit beside the doll, and position the watering can near one hand. This makes the finished piece perfect for photos, nursery decor, or a handmade garden-themed gift.

If making this toy for a young child, sew every accessory securely to the doll and avoid buttons, wire, or any small detachable parts. Embroider the overall buttons instead of using real buttons.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

  1. Sew the head to the body securely, making several passes around the neck so the large head does not wobble.
  2. Sew the cheek pads to the lower face before attaching the beak. The cheeks should frame the beak from both sides.
  3. Pin the eyes first. Place them tall and close together, with the bottom edges near the cheeks.
  4. Sew the eyes with small invisible stitches around the outer blue edge.
  5. Add black embroidered eyebrows above the eyes, curving gently upward.
  6. Add long black lashes around the upper outer corners. Keep both sides symmetrical.
  7. Sew the upper and lower beak in the center of the face, leaving a small open-looking triangle.
  8. Attach the black head feathers at the top center of the head.
  9. Dress the body in the striped overalls. Sew straps and buttons in place.
  10. Add the sunflower purse strap diagonally from shoulder to hip.
  11. Sew sandals onto the feet and add the daisy details.
  12. Place the straw hat slightly tilted beside the head or secure it to the head if preferred.

Care Notes

Spot clean the finished doll with cool water and mild soap. Do not soak heavily if the doll includes buttons or shaped accessories. Gently press with a towel and reshape the head, cheeks, hat brim, and overalls while damp.

Allow the doll to air dry completely before storing. Keep it away from direct sunlight for long periods, because bright yellow, blue, and orange yarns may fade over time.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • The head is larger than the body and softly rounded at the cheeks.
  • The eyes are tall, bright, and symmetrical.
  • The beak is centered between the cheek pads.
  • The black head feathers stand upright.
  • The overalls show clear blue and white horizontal stripes.
  • The bib has two buttons, straps, a pocket, and a small daisy.
  • The orange feet show three rounded toes inside blue sandals.
  • The sunflower purse crosses the body diagonally.
  • The straw hat has a blue band and sunflower decoration.
  • The berry basket and watering can are small enough to look like accessories, not oversized props.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, dust the doll gently with a soft brush. Store it in a breathable cotton bag or a clean box when not in use. Avoid plastic bags for long storage, because trapped moisture can affect cotton yarn and stuffing.

If the hat brim bends, lightly mist it with water, reshape it with your fingers, and let it dry flat. If the eyelashes or brows loosen, re-stitch them with black embroidery thread using small knots hidden inside nearby stitches.

To keep the overalls crisp, smooth the striped shorts and bib after cleaning. The small flowers can be fluffed by gently lifting each petal with the tip of a tapestry needle.

Pattern Closing

Your garden bird doll is now complete, with its bright yellow body, expressive embroidered face, blue striped overalls, flower sandals, sunflower purse, straw hat, berry basket, and watering can. Take time with the face and accessories, because those tiny details create the cheerful handmade personality of the finished crochet piece.

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