Knitting Tutorial: Woodland Mouse in Berry Cape and Acorn Hat – Free Knitting Pattern.

This sweet woodland mouse is knitted with a soft cream body, pale pink inner ears, a tiny pink nose, shiny black eyes, a sage green berry cape, a little acorn hat, a cream cable romper, brown sandals with daisy trims, a green backpack, and a small berry basket. The finished doll has a gentle handmade look with rounded shaping and carefully placed accessories.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

• Finished mouse height: about 9.5 in / 24 cm from top of head to soles.
• Head width: about 3.25 in / 8.5 cm across the cheeks.
• Ear width: about 1.5 in / 4 cm each.
• Cape length: about 2 in / 5 cm from neck edge to lower hem.
• Backpack height: about 2.25 in / 6 cm.
• Basket height: about 1.25 in / 3 cm, not including handle.

Materials

• Yarn weight: sport weight or light DK yarn works best for the smooth, small-scale stitches shown in the photo.
• Main mouse color: warm cream, about 45 yd / 41 m.
• Inner ear and paws: pale blush pink, about 15 yd / 14 m.
• Romper: ivory or soft oatmeal cream, about 35 yd / 32 m.
• Cape: muted sage green, about 28 yd / 26 m.
• Acorn cap and sandals: medium chestnut brown, about 18 yd / 16 m.
• Backpack: moss green, about 22 yd / 20 m.
• Basket: tan or straw beige, about 15 yd / 14 m.
• Embroidery colors: berry red, deep purple, olive green, dark brown, white, yellow, and black.
• Needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm double-pointed needles or long circular needle for magic loop.
• Optional smaller needles: US 1 / 2.25 mm for straps, tail, and tiny details.
• Safety eyes: two black 8 mm safety eyes, or black yarn for embroidered eyes.
• Buttons: five tiny tan buttons, about 6 mm, for the front romper and cape neck.
• Filling: polyester fiberfill.
• Other tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, pins, scissors, removable marker, and a small amount of blush for optional cheek tint.

Gauge

Gauge: 7 stitches and 10 rows = 1 in / 2.5 cm in stockinette stitch using US 2 / 2.75 mm needles. The gauge should feel firm enough that stuffing does not show through. If your fabric looks loose, use smaller needles.

The doll in the image has small, even stitches and rounded shaping. A firm gauge is important because the head, ears, paws, and body need to keep their soft sculpted form after stuffing.

Abbreviations

• BO: bind off.
• CO: cast on.
• k: knit.
• p: purl.
• st / sts: stitch / stitches.
• rnd / rnds: round / rounds.
• RS: right side.
• WS: wrong side.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• ssk: slip 1, slip 1, knit slipped stitches together through the back loops.
• m1L: make 1 left increase.
• m1R: make 1 right increase.
• pfb: purl into front and back of the same stitch.
• kfb: knit into front and back of the same stitch.
• sl1: slip 1 stitch purlwise.
• yo: yarn over.
• C4F: slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
• C4B: slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
• I-cord: knit all stitches, slide them back to the opposite needle tip, and knit again without turning.

Construction Overview

The mouse is worked as separate pieces and sewn together. The head is a round cream sphere with a soft muzzle. The ears are flat circles with pink centers and cream rims. The body wears a fitted ivory romper with cable panels down the legs and front.

The cape is knitted separately in sage green with a curved neckline and scalloped lower edge. Small berries and leaves are embroidered on both front panels. The acorn hat is a tiny brown cap with a ribbed rim and short stem.

• Make the legs first, then join them into the lower body.
• Knit the torso in cream, then dress it with the ivory romper panel.
• Knit the head, ears, muzzle, arms, tail, sandals, cape, hat, backpack, basket, berries, and mushrooms separately.
• Sew all pieces with small mattress stitches so the seams stay neat and almost invisible.

Body and Legs

Left Leg

Use warm cream yarn and US 2 / 2.75 mm needles. Work in the round. Stuff lightly as you go, keeping the foot and lower leg firm but not stretched.

1. CO 8 sts. Divide across needles and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. You now have 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: k1, kfb, repeat around. You now have 24 sts.
6. Rnds 5-8: k all sts for the rounded foot.
7. Rnd 9: k6, k2tog four times, k10. You now have 20 sts.
8. Rnd 10: k5, k2tog three times, k9. You now have 17 sts.
9. Rnd 11: k all sts.
10. Rnd 12: k4, k2tog two times, k9. You now have 15 sts.
11. Rnds 13-24: k all sts.
12. Break yarn and place the 15 sts on a holder.

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Right Leg

1. Work exactly as for the left leg through Rnd 24.
2. Do not break yarn after Rnd 24.
3. Place a marker at the center inner side of the right leg.

Join Legs and Shape Lower Body

The joined body should look like the image: rounded hips, short soft legs, and a gentle gap between the legs. Keep the stuffing smooth so the romper can sit neatly over the body.

1. With right leg on needles, CO 3 sts for the center crotch bridge.
2. Knit across the 15 sts of the left leg.
3. CO 3 sts for the back crotch bridge.
4. Knit across the 15 sts of the right leg. You now have 36 sts.
5. Rnd 1: k all sts, twisting the cast-on bridge stitches if needed to close gaps.
6. Rnd 2: k all sts.
7. Rnd 3: k8, kfb, k8, kfb, k8, kfb, k7. You now have 39 sts.
8. Rnd 4: k all sts.
9. Rnd 5: k12, kfb, k13, kfb, k12. You now have 41 sts.
10. Rnds 6-15: k all sts.
11. Rnd 16: k8, k2tog, k11, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6. You now have 38 sts.
12. Rnd 17: k all sts.
13. Rnd 18: k7, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k6. You now have 35 sts.
14. Rnd 19: k all sts.
15. Rnd 20: k6, k2tog, k9, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k5. You now have 32 sts.
16. Rnds 21-26: k all sts for the upper torso.
17. Rnd 27: k2, k2tog, repeat around. You now have 24 sts.
18. Rnd 28: k all sts.
19. Stuff the body firmly, especially the hips and belly.
20. Rnd 29: k1, k2tog, repeat around. You now have 16 sts.
21. Rnd 30: k2tog around. You now have 8 sts.
22. Break yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and secure.

Cream Cable Romper

The romper is knitted in ivory and sewn over the cream body. It should cover the torso and legs while leaving the blush-pink hands and tail visible. The front has a vertical button line, and the legs show slim cable panels like the photo.

Front Romper Bib and Body Panel

1. With ivory yarn, CO 31 sts. Work flat.
2. Row 1, WS: p all sts.
3. Row 2, RS: k3, p2, k4, p2, k9, p2, k4, p2, k3.
4. Row 3: p3, k2, p4, k2, p9, k2, p4, k2, p3.
5. Row 4: k3, p2, C4F, p2, k9, p2, C4B, p2, k3.
6. Row 5: repeat Row 3.
7. Rows 6-15: repeat Rows 2-5 two times, then repeat Rows 2-3 once.
8. Row 16: k3, p2, C4F, p2, k9, p2, C4B, p2, k3.
9. Row 17: p all purl sts and k all knit sts as established.
10. Row 18: k4, k2tog, work pattern to last 6 sts, ssk, k4. You now have 29 sts.
11. Row 19: work even in pattern.
12. Row 20: k3, k2tog, work pattern to last 5 sts, ssk, k3. You now have 27 sts.
13. Rows 21-26: work even in pattern.
14. Row 27: p all sts.
15. Row 28: k all sts.
16. BO loosely.

Romper Back Panel

1. CO 29 sts with ivory yarn.
2. Rows 1-4: work stockinette, beginning with a purl row.
3. Rows 5-20: continue stockinette.
4. Row 21: k4, k2tog, k to last 6 sts, ssk, k4. You now have 27 sts.
5. Row 22: p all sts.
6. Row 23: k3, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, ssk, k3. You now have 25 sts.
7. Rows 24-30: stockinette.
8. BO loosely.

Romper Leg Cuffs

1. Make two. With ivory yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1-3: k all sts for garter stitch.
3. Row 4: BO loosely.
4. Wrap one cuff around each lower leg and sew the short edges together at the inner leg.

Button Band Detail

1. With ivory yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Rows 1-22: knit every row.
3. BO.
4. Sew this narrow band vertically down the center front of the romper.
5. Sew four tiny tan buttons evenly on the band, beginning just below the cape edge.

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Head

The head is rounded and slightly wider at the cheeks. Use warm cream yarn. Work in the round and stuff firmly so the face keeps the same soft dome shape seen in the image.

1. CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: kfb in every st around. You now have 16 sts.
3. Rnd 2: k all sts.
4. Rnd 3: k1, kfb, repeat around. You now have 24 sts.
5. Rnd 4: k all sts.
6. Rnd 5: k2, kfb, repeat around. You now have 32 sts.
7. Rnd 6: k all sts.
8. Rnd 7: k3, kfb, repeat around. You now have 40 sts.
9. Rnd 8: k all sts.
10. Rnd 9: k4, kfb, repeat around. You now have 48 sts.
11. Rnds 10-20: k all sts.
12. Rnd 21: k10, kfb, k4, kfb, k16, kfb, k4, kfb, k10. You now have 52 sts.
13. Rnds 22-24: k all sts to form the cheek fullness.
14. Rnd 25: k5, k2tog, repeat to last 3 sts, k3. You now have 45 sts.
15. Rnd 26: k all sts.
16. Rnd 27: k3, k2tog, repeat around. You now have 36 sts.
17. Rnd 28: k all sts.
18. Rnd 29: k2, k2tog, repeat around. You now have 27 sts.
19. Pause and insert safety eyes between Rnds 17 and 18, about 8 sts apart.
20. Stuff the head firmly, shaping cheeks with your fingers.
21. Rnd 30: k1, k2tog, repeat around. You now have 18 sts.
22. Rnd 31: k2tog around. You now have 9 sts.
23. Break yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and secure.

Muzzle

The muzzle is a small pale cream oval sewn to the lower front of the face. It creates the rounded white mouth area under the pink nose.

1. With warm cream or slightly lighter cream yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: kfb, k6, kfb. You now have 10 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: kfb, k8, kfb. You now have 12 sts.
6. Rows 5-8: stockinette stitch.
7. Row 9: p all sts.
8. Row 10: k2tog, k8, ssk. You now have 10 sts.
9. Row 11: p all sts.
10. Row 12: k2tog, k6, ssk. You now have 8 sts.
11. BO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
12. Lightly stuff the muzzle while sewing it onto the lower face.

Ears

The ears are large and round, placed high on both sides of the head. Each ear has a pale pink center and a cream outer rim. The ears should sit slightly outward, not flat against the head.

Inner Ear, Make Two

1. With pale pink yarn, CO 6 sts. Work flat.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: kfb in every st. You now have 12 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, kfb, repeat around. You now have 18 sts.
6. Rows 5-7: stockinette.
7. Row 8: k1, k2tog, repeat across. You now have 12 sts.
8. Row 9: p all sts.
9. Row 10: k2tog across. You now have 6 sts.
10. Break yarn and draw through remaining sts.

Outer Ear, Make Two

1. With cream yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: kfb in every st. You now have 16 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, kfb, repeat across. You now have 24 sts.
6. Rows 5-8: stockinette.
7. Row 9: p all sts.
8. Row 10: k1, k2tog, repeat across. You now have 16 sts.
9. Row 11: p all sts.
10. Row 12: k2tog across. You now have 8 sts.
11. Break yarn and draw through remaining sts.

Join Ear Layers

1. Place one pink inner ear centered on one cream outer ear.
2. Use pale pink yarn to sew the inner ear down with tiny whipstitches.
3. Repeat for the second ear.
4. Fold the bottom edge of each ear slightly and sew 3 small stitches to make a cupped shape.
5. Sew ears to the head between Rnds 11 and 17, angled slightly upward.

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Arms and Pink Hands

The arms are slim and hang from under the cape. The lower hand is pale pink, while the upper arm is cream. Make two matching arms.

1. With pale pink yarn, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st. You now have 16 sts.
4. Rnds 3-5: k all sts.
5. Rnd 6: k2, k2tog, repeat around. You now have 12 sts.
6. Change to cream yarn.
7. Rnds 7-20: k all sts.
8. Stuff the hand lightly and the arm very lightly.
9. Rnd 21: k2tog around. You now have 6 sts.
10. Break yarn, draw through sts, and close.
11. Sew arms to the upper body at each side, just below the neck.

Tail

The tail is pale pink and curves out from the lower back, visible on the left side in the image. Work it as a narrow I-cord.

1. With pale pink yarn and smaller needles, CO 4 sts.
2. Work 38 rows of I-cord.
3. BO, leaving a sewing tail.
4. Thread a thin length of matching yarn through the I-cord and gently curve it.
5. Sew to the lower back of the body before attaching the backpack.

Sage Green Berry Cape

The cape is one of the main features. It is short, rounded, and open at the front. The lower edge curves softly over the shoulders and chest. Tiny embroidered berries and leaves sit on both front panels.

Cape Main Piece

1. With sage green yarn, CO 54 sts. Work flat.
2. Rows 1-4: knit every row for garter edging.
3. Row 5, RS: k4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
4. Row 6, WS: k all sts.
5. Row 7: k4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
6. Row 8: k all sts.
7. Row 9: k4, p5, p2tog, p10, p2tog, p10, p2tog, p10, p2tog, p5, k4. You now have 50 sts.
8. Row 10: k all sts.
9. Row 11: k4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
10. Row 12: k all sts.
11. Row 13: k4, p4, p2tog, p9, p2tog, p9, p2tog, p9, p2tog, p5, k4. You now have 46 sts.
12. Row 14: k all sts.
13. Row 15: k4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
14. Row 16: k all sts.
15. Row 17: k4, p3, p2tog, p8, p2tog, p8, p2tog, p8, p2tog, p5, k4. You now have 42 sts.
16. Row 18: k all sts.
17. Row 19: k4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
18. Row 20: k all sts.
19. Row 21: k4, p2, p2tog, p7, p2tog, p7, p2tog, p7, p2tog, p5, k4. You now have 38 sts.
20. Rows 22-24: knit every row.
21. Row 25, buttonhole row: k3, yo, k2tog, k to end.
22. Rows 26-28: knit every row.
23. BO loosely.

Cape Neck Cord

1. With sage green yarn, CO 3 sts.
2. Work 24 rows of I-cord.
3. BO.
4. Sew the cord along the upper neck edge of the cape, letting it make a softly raised collar.
5. Sew one small tan button opposite the buttonhole.

Berry Embroidery on Cape

• On the left front panel, embroider two small berries using red yarn and one berry using purple yarn.
• On the right front panel, embroider one red berry and two purple berries.
• Use lazy daisy stitches for four olive green leaves around each berry cluster.
• Use a single dark green straight stitch as each berry stem.
• Keep the embroidery low on the cape front so it matches the photo.

Acorn Hat

The acorn hat sits slightly to one side on top of the mouse’s head. It has a small brown dome, a lighter rim, and a short stem.

Acorn Cap

1. With chestnut brown yarn, CO 24 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-3: k1, p1 rib around.
3. Rnd 4: k all sts.
4. Rnd 5: k all sts.
5. Rnd 6: k4, k2tog, repeat around. You now have 20 sts.
6. Rnd 7: k all sts.
7. Rnd 8: k3, k2tog, repeat around. You now have 16 sts.
8. Rnd 9: k all sts.
9. Rnd 10: k2, k2tog, repeat around. You now have 12 sts.
10. Rnd 11: k all sts.
11. Rnd 12: k1, k2tog, repeat around. You now have 8 sts.
12. Stuff very lightly.
13. Rnd 13: k2tog around. You now have 4 sts.
14. Do not cut yarn if you want to continue directly into the stem.

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Acorn Stem

1. With the remaining 4 sts, work 5 rows of I-cord.
2. BO and weave in the end.
3. Sew the hat to the top left side of the head, angled like a little woodland cap.

Brown Sandals with Daisy Details

The sandals are brown and sit over the pale pink feet. Each sandal has a front band, ankle strap, and a tiny white daisy with a yellow center on the outer side.

Sandal Sole, Make Two

1. With chestnut brown yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: kfb, k6, kfb. You now have 10 sts.
4. Rows 3-8: knit every row.
5. Row 9: k2tog, k6, ssk. You now have 8 sts.
6. Row 10: k all sts.
7. BO.
8. Sew one sole under each foot.

Front Strap, Make Two

1. With chestnut brown yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Rows 1-12: knit every row.
3. BO.
4. Wrap the strap over the front of the foot and sew each end to the sole edge.

Ankle Strap, Make Two

1. With chestnut brown yarn, CO 4 sts.
2. Rows 1-18: knit every row.
3. BO.
4. Wrap around the ankle and sew securely at the back.

Daisy Trim

• Use white yarn to make five tiny straight stitches in a circle on the outside of each sandal.
• Use yellow yarn to add one small center stitch in the middle of each daisy.
• Keep the daisy flat so it does not catch when the doll is handled.

Moss Green Backpack

The backpack is moss green with a rounded flap, a tiny button, side ties, and a decorative leaf charm. It sits beside the mouse in the photo but may also be sewn lightly to the back.

Backpack Body

1. With moss green yarn, CO 24 sts. Work flat.
2. Rows 1-4: knit every row.
3. Rows 5-24: work stockinette, beginning with a knit row.
4. Row 25: k2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. You now have 22 sts.
5. Row 26: p all sts.
6. Row 27: k2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. You now have 20 sts.
7. Row 28: p all sts.
8. Rows 29-34: stockinette.
9. BO.
10. Fold the lower edge up to Row 22 and sew the side seams, leaving the top open.

Backpack Flap

1. With moss green yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: knit every row.
3. Row 5: k2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. You now have 18 sts.
4. Row 6: k all sts.
5. Row 7: k2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. You now have 16 sts.
6. Row 8: k all sts.
7. Row 9: k2, yo, k2tog, k to end for a small buttonhole.
8. Row 10: k all sts.
9. BO.
10. Sew the straight edge of the flap to the back top edge of the backpack.
11. Sew one tiny tan button to the front of the backpack body.

Backpack Straps and Leaf Charm

1. For each strap, CO 3 sts and work 28 rows of I-cord. Make two straps.
2. Sew the straps to the back of the backpack in a gentle arch.
3. For the drawstring, CO 3 sts and work 34 rows of I-cord. Thread it near the top edge.
4. For the leaf charm, embroider a simple outline leaf with light beige yarn on the front left side.
5. Add a center vein and four small side veins inside the leaf.

Tan Berry Basket

The basket is knitted in tan yarn to imitate a small woven woodland basket. It has a rounded base, short sides, a handle, and red berries or mushrooms inside.

Basket Base and Sides

1. With tan yarn, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: kfb in every st. You now have 16 sts.
3. Rnd 2: k all sts.
4. Rnd 3: k1, kfb, repeat around. You now have 24 sts.
5. Rnd 4: p all sts to make a turning ridge.
6. Rnds 5-12: k1, p1 around for a woven texture.
7. Rnd 13: p all sts.
8. Rnd 14: k all sts.
9. BO loosely.
10. Stuff lightly with a small circle of fiberfill or scrap yarn to hold the basket shape.

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Basket Handle

1. With tan yarn, CO 4 sts.
2. Work 34 rows of I-cord.
3. BO.
4. Sew one end of the handle to each side of the basket.

Red Berries and Tiny Mushrooms

• For each red berry, CO 6 sts, knit 2 rows, then k2tog across. Draw yarn through remaining sts and close. Make three.
• For each mushroom cap, CO 8 sts with red yarn, knit 4 rows, then gather the edge into a dome. Add white French-knot-style stitches with yarn.
• For each white mushroom stem, CO 5 sts with white yarn, knit 3 rows, BO, roll into a small tube, and sew under the cap.
• Place berries and mushrooms inside the basket and secure them with tiny stitches.

Facial Embroidery

The face has shiny black eyes, a tiny blush-pink nose, delicate eyebrows, and a soft vertical mouth line. Keep every stitch small because the expression should stay gentle and sweet.

1. Using pale pink yarn, embroider a small satin-stitch oval nose centered on the top of the muzzle.
2. Make the nose about 5 stitches wide and 4 rows tall.
3. With the same pink yarn, stitch one short vertical line downward from the nose.
4. With dark brown yarn, embroider a shallow curved eyebrow above each eye.
5. With white yarn, add one tiny highlight stitch beside each black eye if embroidered eyes are used.
6. Optional: add very soft blush to the cheeks with a clean cotton swab.

Assembly Order

Assemble slowly and pin each piece before sewing. The mouse in the image has balanced proportions, with the head slightly larger than the torso, wide ears, small arms, short legs, and accessories arranged neatly around the body.

1. Sew the head to the top of the body with the face centered over the front romper panel.
2. Sew around the neck twice for strength, adding extra stuffing before closing the final gap.
3. Sew the muzzle to the lower face, shaping it into a soft oval.
4. Attach both ears to the sides of the head, keeping them level and slightly cupped.
5. Sew arms to the sides of the upper torso, angled downward.
6. Sew the tail to the lower back.
7. Place the romper front panel over the body and sew side edges neatly to the back panel.
8. Add leg cuffs around the lower legs.
9. Sew the button band down the center front and attach the four tiny buttons.
10. Place the cape around the shoulders and close it with the tiny button at the neckline.
11. Sew or lightly tack the acorn hat to the top side of the head.
12. Add sandals to both feet and secure the daisy decorations.
13. Place the backpack beside the mouse or sew it lightly to the back with hidden stitches.
14. Place the berry basket near one side as a separate accessory.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check that the head sits upright and the ears are even. The cape should frame the face without covering the eyes. The front button line should run straight down the center of the romper.

• Shape the cheeks by gently pressing the stuffing outward under the eyes.
• Adjust the muzzle before fully securing the last stitches.
• Use matching yarn tails to hide all seams inside the body or accessories.
• Brush away loose fibers with your fingers rather than pulling them.

Care Notes

This knitted mouse is best kept as a decorative handmade doll. If it will be handled often, sew every accessory firmly and use embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes for very young children.

• Spot clean only with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if the doll has buttons, safety eyes, or shaped accessories.
• Let the doll air dry flat on a towel.
• Reshape the ears, cape, hat, and sandals while damp if needed.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is round, smooth, and firmly stuffed.
• The ears are large, pink-centered, and sewn at matching angles.
• The pink nose is centered above the small mouth line.
• The ivory romper has front buttons and cable-textured leg panels.
• The sage cape has berry and leaf embroidery on both front sides.
• The acorn hat sits slightly to one side.
• The sandals have brown straps and tiny daisy details.
• The tail, backpack, and berry basket are secured or displayed neatly.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the mouse away from direct sunlight to protect the soft cream, pink, sage, and moss colors. Keep it in a dry place with enough space so the ears and cape do not flatten.

For long-term storage, wrap the doll loosely in acid-free tissue or clean cotton fabric. Do not compress the hat, basket, or backpack. Check the buttons and embroidered details occasionally, especially if the doll is displayed where it is touched often.

To refresh the shape, gently roll the body between your palms and smooth the cape downward. Lift the ears back into their rounded position and straighten the sandals. Small handmade adjustments help the woodland mouse keep the same charming look as the finished sample.