Knitting Tutorial: Baby Hippo Gardener in Cable Overalls with Pacifier – Free Knitting Pattern.

This sweet knitted baby hippo gardener is designed with a round lavender head, soft oversized muzzle, tiny ears, blue safety eyes, rosy cheeks, a pink pacifier, cream-and-blue striped shirt, dark green cable overalls, brown flower sandals, a woven shoulder bag, a small garden trowel with a bee, a floral hat, and a tiny leafy flower crown.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is worked as a detailed knitted soft toy with separate shaped pieces that are stuffed and sewn together. The baby hippo is meant to look seated, with rounded feet resting forward, short arms angled down, and the head slightly oversized for a cute nursery-toy proportion.

The clothing is not simply painted on. The striped shirt sleeves, cable overalls, straps, sandals, pacifier, bag, trowel, bee, flower crown, and hat are made as separate knitted or embroidered details. This gives the finished hippo the same layered handmade look shown in the image.

• Finished height: about 13 in / 33 cm seated, from sandal sole to top of ears.
• Skill level: confident beginner to intermediate.
• Construction: flat knitting and small round pieces, seamed carefully.
• Main fabric: firm stockinette so stuffing does not show.
• Best use: decorative handmade toy or display doll.

Materials

• DK weight yarn in lavender for head, body, arms, legs, and ears, about 120 yd / 110 m.
• DK weight yarn in light lavender for muzzle and inner ears, about 35 yd / 32 m.
• DK weight yarn in dark forest green for cable overalls, about 80 yd / 73 m.
• DK weight yarn in cream for shirt, hat, pacifier center, and sandal flowers, about 65 yd / 59 m.
• DK weight yarn in pale blue for shirt stripes, about 20 yd / 18 m.
• DK weight yarn in pale yellow for shirt stripes and bee body, about 15 yd / 14 m.
• DK weight yarn in dusty pink for pacifier, cheeks, toe details, and flowers, about 25 yd / 23 m.
• DK weight yarn in tan or straw brown for shoulder bag, trowel handle, sandal soles, and straps, about 60 yd / 55 m.
• DK weight yarn in gray for trowel blade and small charm, about 15 yd / 14 m.
• Small amounts of green, purple, red, yellow, white, and black yarn for embroidery, flowers, leaves, bee, nostrils, and brows.
• US size 2 needles / 2.75 mm straight or double-pointed needles.
• US size 1 needles / 2.25 mm for tight accessories, optional but helpful.
• Two 12 mm blue safety eyes with black pupils, or embroidered eyes for a child-safe version.
• Polyester fiberfill.
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers, cable needle, sewing pins, and scissors.
• Optional: one small button-like bead for each overall strap, or knit tiny round buttons as written below.

Gauge and Fabric Notes

Gauge: 28 stitches and 38 rows equal 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette stitch with US size 2 needles. Exact gauge is less important than firmness. The knitted fabric should be dense enough that stuffing does not show through the lavender body or the green overalls.

If your stitches look loose, go down one needle size. If the pieces become too stiff to shape smoothly, go up one needle size. The pictured toy has visible neat vertical knit stitches, rounded plush shaping, and slightly firm accessory pieces.

Abbreviations

• CO: cast on.
• BO: bind off.
• K: knit.
• P: purl.
• st / sts: stitch / stitches.
• RS: right side.
• WS: wrong side.
• kfb: knit into the front and back of the same stitch, increasing 1 stitch.
• ssk: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit slipped stitches together through back loops.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• p2tog: purl 2 stitches together.
• M1: make 1 stitch by lifting the bar between stitches and knitting into the back of it.
• C4F: slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, K2, then K2 from cable needle.
• C4B: slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in back, K2, then K2 from cable needle.

Important Shaping Notes

The baby hippo is built with a large oval head, a separate wide muzzle placed low on the face, a smaller seated body under green overalls, thick short legs, rounded arms, and soft circular ears. The head should be the largest visual piece, about one third of the total seated height.

Use mattress stitch for seams whenever possible. Stuff firmly, but do not overstuff the muzzle or cheeks. The muzzle should stay wide and soft, while the head remains round and smooth. Pin all facial parts before sewing so both eyes and nostrils sit evenly.

Head

Work the head flat in lavender. The seam will run down the back of the head. Stuff gradually before closing. This head is intentionally tall and round, with a soft baby shape and enough surface area for the large muzzle, pacifier, cheeks, eyes, ears, and flower crown.

1. CO 12 sts in lavender.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb across to last st, K1. You have 22 sts.
4. Row 3: P all sts.
5. Row 4: K2, kfb, repeat from kfb every 2 sts to last 2 sts, K2. You have 31 sts.
6. Row 5: P all sts.
7. Row 6: K3, kfb, repeat across to last 3 sts, K3. You have 40 sts.
8. Row 7: P all sts.
9. Row 8: K4, kfb, repeat across to last 4 sts, K4. You have 49 sts.
10. Row 9: P all sts.
11. Row 10: K5, kfb, repeat across to last 5 sts, K5. You have 58 sts.
12. Rows 11 to 30: Work stockinette, beginning with a purl row and ending after Row 30.
13. Row 31: P all sts.
14. Row 32: K6, k2tog, repeat across to last 2 sts, K2. You have 51 sts.
15. Row 33: P all sts.
16. Row 34: K5, k2tog, repeat across to last 2 sts, K2. You have 44 sts.
17. Row 35: P all sts.
18. Row 36: K4, k2tog, repeat across to last 2 sts, K2. You have 37 sts.
19. Row 37: P all sts.
20. Row 38: K3, k2tog, repeat across to last 2 sts, K2. You have 30 sts.
21. Row 39: P all sts.
22. Row 40: K2, k2tog, repeat across to last 2 sts, K2. You have 23 sts.
23. Row 41: P all sts.
24. Row 42: K1, k2tog across to last st, K1. You have 12 sts.
25. Cut yarn leaving a 16 in tail. Thread through remaining sts, pull gently, seam the back, stuff firmly, and close the lower opening.

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Muzzle

The muzzle is the large light lavender oval across the lower face. It should sit from just below the eyes to the top edge of the pacifier, stretching nearly from cheek to cheek. Shape it as a padded oval and sew it with the center slightly raised.

1. CO 10 sts in light lavender.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. You have 12 sts.
4. Row 3: P all sts.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. You have 14 sts.
6. Row 5: P all sts.
7. Row 6: K1, kfb, K10, kfb, K1. You have 16 sts.
8. Rows 7 to 16: Work stockinette.
9. Row 17: P all sts.
10. Row 18: K1, ssk, K10, k2tog, K1. You have 14 sts.
11. Row 19: P all sts.
12. Row 20: K1, ssk, K8, k2tog, K1. You have 12 sts.
13. Row 21: P all sts.
14. Row 22: K1, ssk, K6, k2tog, K1. You have 10 sts.
15. BO all sts, leaving a long sewing tail.

Lightly stuff the muzzle while sewing. Place it low on the head, with the top edge about 9 rows below the eye line. Stretch the oval gently sideways so it becomes wide like a baby hippo snout. Sew around the edge, leaving the center softly domed.

Nostrils

• Using black yarn, make one small vertical satin stitch nostril on each side of the upper muzzle.
• Place nostrils about 7 sts apart, centered horizontally on the muzzle.
• Each nostril should be about 2 knitted rows tall.
• Do not make them too large; the image shows tiny black nostrils on a soft lavender snout.

Inner Mouth Shadow

The pacifier sits over a small dark mouth opening. To make this effect, embroider a short curved gray shadow under the pink pacifier bow. This shadow should be visible only as a small smile-like line beneath the pacifier ring.

• Use gray yarn and a tapestry needle.
• Make one curved horizontal stitch, about 7 sts wide, centered on the lower muzzle.
• Place this line before sewing on the pacifier so the pacifier partly covers it.

Ears

The ears are round, small, and placed high on both sides of the head. The outer ear is lavender, and the inner ear is light lavender. Sew each ear with the lower edge slightly pinched to create a soft cupped shape.

Outer Ear, Make 2

1. CO 8 sts in lavender.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. You have 10 sts.
4. Row 3: P all sts.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. You have 12 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 10: Work stockinette.
7. Row 11: P all sts.
8. Row 12: K1, ssk, K6, k2tog, K1. You have 10 sts.
9. Row 13: P all sts.
10. Row 14: K1, ssk, K4, k2tog, K1. You have 8 sts.
11. BO all sts.

Inner Ear, Make 2

1. CO 6 sts in light lavender.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, K2, kfb, K1. You have 8 sts.
4. Rows 3 to 8: Work stockinette.
5. Row 9: P all sts.
6. Row 10: K1, ssk, K2, k2tog, K1. You have 6 sts.
7. BO all sts.

Sew one inner ear to each outer ear. Fold each ear slightly at the base. Sew the ears to the head between Rows 12 and 21 of the head, one on each side. Angle them outward so they look round and gentle, not pointed.

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Body

The body is lavender underneath but mostly covered by the green overalls. Knit it as a soft pear shape with a wider lower sitting area. The upper body should be narrow enough for the shoulder straps to fall naturally over the striped shirt.

1. CO 14 sts in lavender.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb across to last st, K1. You have 26 sts.
4. Row 3: P all sts.
5. Row 4: K2, kfb, repeat across to last 2 sts, K2. You have 37 sts.
6. Row 5: P all sts.
7. Row 6: K4, kfb, repeat across to last 3 sts, K3. You have 45 sts.
8. Rows 7 to 24: Work stockinette.
9. Row 25: P all sts.
10. Row 26: K5, k2tog, repeat across to last 3 sts, K3. You have 39 sts.
11. Row 27: P all sts.
12. Row 28: K4, k2tog, repeat across to last 3 sts, K3. You have 33 sts.
13. Rows 29 to 34: Work stockinette.
14. Row 35: P all sts.
15. Row 36: K3, k2tog, repeat across to last 3 sts, K3. You have 27 sts.
16. Row 37: P all sts.
17. Row 38: K2, k2tog, repeat across to last 3 sts, K3. You have 21 sts.
18. Row 39: P all sts.
19. Row 40: K1, k2tog across to last st, K1. You have 11 sts.
20. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, seam back, stuff firmly, and close.

Attach the head to the body with the head leaning very slightly forward. The baby hippo should look as if sitting on a garden bench. Use many small stitches around the neck and add extra stuffing at the front neck before closing the seam.

Legs

The legs are short, lavender, and mostly visible below the overalls. They point forward in a seated pose. The feet are wide and sandal-covered, so make the lower part of each leg slightly fuller than the upper part.

Leg, Make 2

1. CO 14 sts in lavender.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, K10, kfb, K1. You have 16 sts.
4. Rows 3 to 16: Work stockinette.
5. Row 17: P all sts.
6. Row 18: K1, kfb, K14, kfb, K1. You have 18 sts.
7. Rows 19 to 26: Work stockinette.
8. Row 27: P all sts.
9. Row 28: K1, ssk, K12, k2tog, K1. You have 16 sts.
10. Row 29: P all sts.
11. Row 30: K1, ssk, K10, k2tog, K1. You have 14 sts.
12. BO all sts, leaving a sewing tail.

Fold each leg lengthwise with right sides together. Sew the back seam, turn right side out, stuff firmly at the foot and lightly at the upper leg. Sew legs to the lower front of the body, about 8 sts apart, angled downward and forward.

Arms

The arms are slim, lavender, and hang down beside the body. The hand end is rounded with tiny pale pink nail details. One arm holds the garden trowel, so position the right arm slightly forward after the overalls are sewn in place.

Arm, Make 2

1. CO 12 sts in lavender.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work stockinette, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 5 RS: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. You have 14 sts.
4. Rows 6 to 22: Work stockinette.
5. Row 23 WS: P all sts.
6. Row 24 RS: K1, ssk, K8, k2tog, K1. You have 12 sts.
7. Row 25: P all sts.
8. Row 26: K1, ssk, K6, k2tog, K1. You have 10 sts.
9. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull closed, seam side, and stuff lightly.

Embroider three tiny dusty pink nail stitches on the rounded hand end of each arm. Sew the arms to the sides of the body just below the neck. Angle the left arm downward and the right arm forward enough to hold the trowel handle.

Striped Shirt

The shirt is cream with narrow pale blue and pale yellow horizontal stripes. It shows as short sleeves under the green overalls. Knit the shirt as a small open-back vest panel and two sleeve bands, then sew it around the upper body before adding the overalls.

Shirt Body Panel

1. CO 46 sts in cream.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K all sts.
4. Row 3: Change to pale blue, P all sts.
5. Row 4: K all sts in pale blue.
6. Row 5: Change to cream, P all sts.
7. Row 6: K all sts in cream.
8. Row 7: Change to pale yellow, P all sts.
9. Row 8: K all sts in pale yellow.
10. Rows 9 to 20: Repeat Rows 1 to 8 once, then Rows 1 to 4 once.
11. Row 21: In cream, P all sts.
12. Row 22: K all sts.
13. BO all sts loosely.

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Wrap the shirt panel around the upper body. Let the back edges meet but do not overlap. Sew a short back seam from the lower edge up 10 rows, leaving the top back open under the head for easier shaping.

Sleeves, Make 2

1. CO 20 sts in cream.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K all sts.
4. Row 3: Change to pale blue, P all sts.
5. Row 4: K all sts in pale blue.
6. Row 5: Change to cream, P all sts.
7. Row 6: K all sts in cream.
8. Row 7: Change to pale yellow, P all sts.
9. Row 8: K all sts in pale yellow.
10. Row 9: Change to cream, P all sts.
11. Row 10: K all sts.
12. BO all sts.

Seam each sleeve into a small tube. Slide one sleeve over each arm before attaching the arms fully, or sew the sleeve around the upper arm after the arm is attached. The sleeve edge should sit just below the shoulder strap of the overalls.

Cable Overalls

The dark green overalls are the main clothing feature. They have a high bib, wide shorts legs, two front cable panels, side shaping, shoulder straps, and tiny brown buttons. The texture should look raised and decorative like the cable overalls in the image.

Overall Front Panel

The cable pattern is worked over the center 18 stitches. Keep 6 stockinette stitches at each side. The panel should cover the belly from chest to upper thighs. Work with firm tension so the cables stand out clearly.

1. CO 30 sts in dark green.
2. Row 1 WS: P6, K2, P4, K2, P4, K2, P6.
3. Row 2 RS: K6, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K6.
4. Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
5. Row 4: K6, P2, C4F, P2, C4B, P2, K6.
6. Rows 5 to 8: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twice.
7. Row 9: Repeat Row 1.
8. Row 10: K6, P2, C4B, P2, C4F, P2, K6.
9. Rows 11 to 28: Repeat Rows 1 to 10 once, then Rows 1 to 8 once.
10. Row 29 WS: P all sts.
11. Row 30 RS: K4, k2tog, K18, ssk, K4. You have 28 sts.
12. Row 31: P all sts.
13. Row 32: K4, k2tog, K16, ssk, K4. You have 26 sts.
14. Rows 33 to 38: Work stockinette, keeping the center cables if enough stitches remain visible.
15. Row 39: P all sts.
16. Row 40: K4, k2tog, K14, ssk, K4. You have 24 sts.
17. Rows 41 to 46: Work stockinette.
18. BO all sts.

Overall Back Panel

1. CO 30 sts in dark green.
2. Rows 1 to 24: Work stockinette, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 25 RS: K4, k2tog, K18, ssk, K4. You have 28 sts.
4. Row 26: P all sts.
5. Row 27: K4, k2tog, K16, ssk, K4. You have 26 sts.
6. Rows 28 to 36: Work stockinette.
7. Row 37 RS: K4, k2tog, K14, ssk, K4. You have 24 sts.
8. Rows 38 to 44: Work stockinette.
9. BO all sts.

Sew the front and back overall panels together at the side edges from the lower shorts edge to the underarm area. Leave the top open for the bib effect. The cable front should sit centered on the belly, with the lower edge covering the tops of the legs.

Shorts Leg Bands, Make 2

1. CO 28 sts in dark green.
2. Rows 1 to 3: K all sts for garter texture.
3. Rows 4 to 8: Work stockinette.
4. BO all sts.

Wrap one band around each upper leg where the green shorts meet the lavender leg. Sew the short edges together at the inner leg. Attach the upper edge to the lower edge of the overall body. The bands should look like soft cuffed shorts.

Shoulder Straps, Make 2

1. CO 6 sts in dark green.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until strap measures 5 in / 12.5 cm.
5. BO all sts.

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Sew each strap to the back top edge of the overalls. Bring straps over the striped shirt shoulders and sew to the front bib. Cross the straps very slightly toward the center so they frame the chest like the image.

Tiny Brown Buttons, Make 2

1. CO 4 sts in tan.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull into a small circle, and knot securely.

Sew one button at the end of each front strap. Place them high on the bib, about 5 sts from each side edge. Use tan yarn so they look like small wooden buttons against the green overalls.

Sandals

The sandals are brown with thick soles, crisscross straps, and tiny white flowers. Lavender toes show at the front. Each sandal is made from a sole, a front toe band, two crossing straps, and embroidered toe details.

Sandal Sole, Make 2

1. CO 10 sts in tan.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. You have 12 sts.
4. Row 3: P all sts.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. You have 14 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 14: Work stockinette.
7. Row 15: P all sts.
8. Row 16: K1, ssk, K8, k2tog, K1. You have 12 sts.
9. Row 17: P all sts.
10. Row 18: K1, ssk, K6, k2tog, K1. You have 10 sts.
11. BO all sts.

Toe Band, Make 2

1. CO 16 sts in tan.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work stockinette.
3. BO all sts.

Cross Straps, Make 4

1. CO 4 sts in tan.
2. Work 14 rows in garter stitch.
3. BO all sts.

Sew one toe band across the front of each foot, leaving the lavender toe tips visible. Sew two straps across each ankle in an X shape. Attach the sole underneath the foot so the brown edge shows around the lavender toes.

Toe and Sandal Flower Details

• With dusty pink yarn, embroider three oval toe stitches on the front of each foot.
• With white yarn, make one small five-petal flower on the outer side of each sandal strap.
• With yellow yarn, stitch one tiny center knot into each flower.

Pacifier

The pacifier is a key facial accessory. It has a soft pink bow-shaped shield, a cream center button, and a pink ring hanging over the mouth. Keep it rounded, cute, and slightly oversized so it matches the baby theme.

Pink Shield

1. CO 8 sts in dusty pink.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. You have 10 sts.
4. Rows 3 to 6: Work stockinette.
5. Row 7: P all sts.
6. Row 8: K1, ssk, K4, k2tog, K1. You have 8 sts.
7. BO all sts.
8. Make a second matching piece.

Sew the two pink shield pieces side by side with their inner edges touching, forming a soft bow or butterfly shape. Gather the center with two tight wraps of pink yarn so the shield narrows in the middle.

Cream Pacifier Center

1. CO 6 sts in cream.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K all sts.
5. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull into a small round nub, and secure.

Pink Ring

1. CO 5 sts in dusty pink.
2. Knit an i-cord for 18 rows.
3. BO all sts.
4. Curve the cord into a ring and sew the ends together securely.

Sew the cream center onto the middle of the pink shield. Sew the ring to the lower center of the shield so it hangs over the gray mouth shadow. Attach the pacifier to the lower muzzle using small hidden stitches around the shield only.

Facial Details

The eyes are large, glossy, and blue, giving the hippo a gentle baby expression. The brows are tiny black curved stitches above the eyes. Rosy cheek patches sit on both sides of the muzzle, just below the outer eye corners.

• Place eyes about 12 sts apart, between Rows 17 and 20 of the head.
• Place the muzzle below the eyes before locking safety eyes, if using safety eyes.
• Embroider one small black curved brow above each eye, about 4 sts long.
• For each cheek, use dusty pink yarn and make 5 horizontal satin stitches over 4 sts.
• Place cheeks on the lavender face, beside the muzzle, slightly below the eye line.

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Flower Crown

The flower crown sits on the top right side of the hippo’s head, close to one ear. It includes a small purple flower cluster and green leaves. Keep it small so it decorates the head without hiding the round hippo shape.

Purple Flower, Make 1

1. CO 15 sts in purple.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Cut yarn leaving a long tail.
5. Thread tail through the stitches, gather tightly, and coil into a five-petal flower.

Green Leaves, Make 3

1. CO 3 sts in green.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: K1, kfb, K1. You have 4 sts.
4. Row 3: K all sts.
5. Row 4: K1, k2tog, K1. You have 3 sts.
6. Row 5: K all sts.
7. BO all sts.

Sew the purple flower to the top of the head, slightly to the viewer’s left of center. Sew two leaves sweeping toward the ear and one leaf pointing upward. This placement matches the small garden-crown detail in the image.

Shoulder Bag

The shoulder bag is tan and textured, with a flap, long strap, and embroidered flower on the front. It hangs across the body from one shoulder to the opposite hip. The front surface should look woven, like a tiny straw garden satchel.

Bag Body

1. CO 18 sts in tan.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K all sts.
4. Row 3: K2, P2 across to last 2 sts, K2.
5. Row 4: P2, K2 across to last 2 sts, P2.
6. Rows 5 to 18: Repeat Rows 1 to 4, ending after Row 18.
7. Row 19: P all sts.
8. Row 20: K all sts.
9. BO all sts.

Fold the lower edge up to create a pouch measuring about 1.75 in / 4.5 cm tall. Sew both side seams. Leave the top open. The textured knit-and-purl rows should face outward to imitate the woven bag in the picture.

Bag Flap

1. CO 16 sts in tan.
2. Rows 1 to 8: Work seed stitch by repeating K1, P1 across each row.
3. Row 9: K1, ssk, work seed stitch to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. You have 14 sts.
4. Row 10: Work seed stitch.
5. Row 11: K1, ssk, work seed stitch to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. You have 12 sts.
6. BO all sts.

Sew the straight edge of the flap to the back top edge of the bag. Let the shaped edge fold over the front. Add one small flower embroidery in the center of the flap with red, yellow, green, and purple yarn.

Bag Strap

1. CO 4 sts in tan.
2. Knit an i-cord for 58 rows, or until it crosses the hippo from shoulder to opposite hip.
3. BO all sts.

Sew one strap end to each upper side of the bag. Place the strap over the hippo’s shoulder, crossing the chest diagonally. Secure the strap with two hidden stitches at the shoulder and two hidden stitches near the side seam so it stays in place.

Garden Trowel

The hippo holds a small trowel with a tan handle and gray blade. A tiny bee is perched near the top, adding a playful garden detail. Keep the tool lightweight so it does not pull the arm out of shape.

Trowel Handle

1. CO 5 sts in tan.
2. Knit an i-cord for 26 rows.
3. BO all sts.

Trowel Blade

1. CO 8 sts in gray.
2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. You have 10 sts.
4. Rows 3 to 8: Work stockinette.
5. Row 9: P all sts.
6. Row 10: K1, ssk, K4, k2tog, K1. You have 8 sts.
7. Row 11: P all sts.
8. Row 12: K1, ssk, K2, k2tog, K1. You have 6 sts.
9. Row 13: P all sts.
10. Row 14: K1, ssk, k2tog, K1. You have 4 sts.
11. BO all sts.

Sew the gray blade to one end of the tan handle. Add a few vertical gray stitches down the blade center to suggest a garden-tool ridge. Sew the handle into the right hand using several hidden wraps around the arm and handle.

Tiny Bee

1. CO 6 sts in yellow.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work stockinette.
3. Cut yarn and gather into a tiny oval body.
4. Wrap two black yarn stripes around the bee body.
5. With white yarn, make two small looped wing stitches on top.
6. Sew the bee to the upper side of the trowel blade.

Floral Sun Hat

The cream hat rests beside the hippo, not on the head. It has a rounded crown, a scalloped brim, and a ring of tiny colorful flowers around the crown base. Knit it as a separate display accessory.

Hat Crown

1. CO 40 sts in cream.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work garter stitch.
3. Rows 5 to 22: Work stockinette.
4. Row 23 RS: K3, k2tog across to last 5 sts, K5. You have 33 sts.
5. Row 24: P all sts.
6. Row 25: K2, k2tog across to last 5 sts, K5. You have 26 sts.
7. Row 26: P all sts.
8. Row 27: K1, k2tog across to last 2 sts, K2. You have 18 sts.
9. Row 28: P all sts.
10. Row 29: k2tog across. You have 9 sts.
11. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull closed, and seam the back.

Scalloped Brim

1. CO 66 sts in cream.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K2, yo, K2, k2tog, repeat across.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Rows 5 to 8: Work stockinette.
7. BO loosely.

Sew the brim around the lower edge of the hat crown. Let the yarn-over row create a soft scalloped edge. Shape the brim outward with your fingers so it lies gently against the bench or display surface.

Hat Flower Band

• Use green yarn to embroider a simple vine around the crown base.
• Add small lazy-daisy flowers in pink, yellow, blue, purple, and red.
• Place each flower about 4 sts apart.
• Add one tiny yellow knot in the center of each flower.

Small Hanging Charm

A tiny gray charm hangs near the bag strap in the image. This can look like a small key or garden tag. Make it simple so it does not compete with the pacifier, flower crown, or bag embroidery.

1. CO 4 sts in gray.
2. Rows 1 to 6: K all sts.
3. BO all sts.
4. Use gray yarn to make a small loop above the rectangle.
5. Sew the charm to the lower side of the bag strap.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew the head to the body first, checking that the face points forward and slightly downward.
2. Sew the legs to the lower body in a seated position, with feet forward and evenly spaced.
3. Wrap and sew the striped shirt around the upper body, then add sleeves around the arms.
4. Sew the overalls over the shirt, keeping the cable panel centered on the belly.
5. Attach straps over the shoulders and sew the tiny brown buttons to the front bib.
6. Sew the arms to the sides, placing the trowel arm slightly forward.
7. Add sandals to the feet, then embroider toes and sandal flowers.
8. Sew the muzzle to the lower face and add nostrils, cheeks, brows, and pacifier.
9. Add ears high on the head, then sew the flower crown near one ear.
10. Place the shoulder bag across the body and secure it with hidden stitches.
11. Sew the trowel into the hand and attach the bee to the blade.
12. Finish the separate floral hat and place it beside the hippo for display.

Before finishing, view the toy from the front. The eyes should be level, the muzzle should be centered, and the pacifier should sit directly over the lower muzzle. The overalls should not twist, and the bag should hang at the hippo’s front side.

Care Notes

• Spot clean gently with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if safety eyes, buttons, or firm accessories are attached.
• Press out moisture with a towel instead of wringing.
• Reshape the ears, hat brim, bag, and pacifier while damp.
• Let the toy air dry fully before storing or displaying.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head: round, smooth, and larger than the body.
• Muzzle: wide, light lavender, softly padded, and low on the face.
• Eyes: large blue eyes placed evenly above the muzzle.
• Pacifier: pink shield, cream center, and hanging pink ring.
• Outfit: cream, blue, and yellow striped shirt under green cable overalls.
• Feet: brown sandals with visible lavender toes and small flowers.
• Accessories: woven tan bag, trowel, bee, charm, flower crown, and floral sun hat.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Keep the finished baby hippo away from direct sunlight for long periods, especially if you used soft pastel yarns. Lavender, dusty pink, pale blue, and cream can fade over time. Displaying the doll in a shaded area helps preserve the gentle garden colors.

For dust removal, use a soft dry brush and move in the direction of the knit stitches. Brush the cable overalls lightly so the raised cable texture remains clear. Avoid pulling at the pacifier ring, bag strap, flower crown, or tiny bee.

If the doll needs deeper cleaning, dampen a cloth with cool water and gently blot the stained area. Do not soak the toy, because the stuffing may dry unevenly. After cleaning, support the head and body while drying so the seated shape stays balanced.

Store the hippo in a breathable cotton bag or display box. Do not compress the flower crown, hat brim, ears, or bag. If the sandals flatten during storage, reshape the soles by hand and let them rest flat overnight.

Check sewn-on accessories occasionally. Re-secure any loose strap, flower, button, or charm with matching yarn. This keeps the knitted gardener neat, safe, and close to the original image’s sweet handmade look.