This elegant amigurumi deer girl wears a fitted sage-green bodice and a full garden-inspired dress covered with crocheted roses, daisies, lavender sprigs, leaves, and tiny blossoms. Her design also includes branched brown antlers, a pastel flower crown, long eyelashes, open-toe sandals, a decorated sun hat, a striped garden tote, a miniature watering can, and a small wildflower bouquet.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Finished Size and Construction
Using sport-weight cotton yarn and a 2.25 mm crochet hook, the finished deer girl measures approximately 16 inches tall from the sandal soles to the tips of the antlers. The doll is worked mostly in continuous spiral rounds. The dress, accessories, flowers, and facial details are added separately.
- Doll height without antlers: Approximately 14 inches.
- Head width: Approximately 4.5 inches.
- Dress width at hem: Approximately 8 inches when laid flat.
- Garden hat diameter: Approximately 6.5 inches.
- Tote height: Approximately 3.5 inches, excluding handles.
- Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate.
Materials
- Sport-weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in cream, ivory, sage green, tan, medium brown, pale blue, white, pink, dusty rose, lavender, purple, light green, yellow, and a small amount of black.
- 2.25 mm crochet hook for the doll and small accessories.
- 2.75 mm crochet hook for the dress skirt and hat brim.
- 12 mm black safety eyes or embroidered eyes.
- Polyester fiberfill.
- Yarn needle with a blunt tip.
- Embroidery needle for eyelashes and small flower centers.
- Stitch markers.
- Sewing pins.
- Scissors.
- Flexible floral wire or pipe cleaners for the antlers and watering-can handle.
- Thin plastic canvas for the sandal soles and hat brim, optional.
- Fabric glue, optional and used only for securing tiny decorative details.
- Pink blush or soft pink textile crayon for the cheeks.
Yarn Color Guide
- Color A: Warm cream for the head, neck, arms, and legs.
- Color B: Pale blush cream for the muzzle and inner ears.
- Color C: Medium brown for hooves, nose, and antlers.
- Color D: Sage green for the dress.
- Color E: Light tan for the hat.
- Color F: Natural beige for the tote and sandal soles.
- Color G: Pale blue for the watering can and small flowers.
- Flower colors: Pink, dusty rose, lavender, purple, white, and yellow.
- Leaf colors: Sage, olive, and light green.
Abbreviations in US Crochet Terms
- MR: Magic ring.
- ch: Chain.
- sl st: Slip stitch.
- sc: Single crochet.
- hdc: Half double crochet.
- dc: Double crochet.
- tr: Treble crochet.
- inc: Work 2 sc in the same stitch.
- dec: Invisible single crochet decrease.
- BLO: Back loop only.
- FLO: Front loop only.
- st or sts: Stitch or stitches.
- R or Rnd: Row or round.
- FO: Fasten off.
Gauge and Tension
Exact gauge is less important than producing a firm fabric that does not show stuffing. A useful reference is 12 single crochet stitches and 13 rounds measuring approximately 2 inches. Keep the stitches even, especially around the face, neck, hands, and long legs.
Use the smaller hook if gaps appear between stitches. The dress should remain slightly softer than the body, so the larger hook may be used for the skirt. Stuff the doll gradually and avoid overfilling the narrow limbs, which can distort their shape.
Important Working Notes
- Work the doll parts in continuous rounds unless a joined round is specifically stated.
- Place a marker in the first stitch of every round.
- Move increases and decreases slightly when necessary to prevent visible diagonal lines.
- Stuff the head firmly, the neck very firmly, and the limbs moderately.
- Keep the underside of the arms and legs slightly flatter than the front.
- Make all flower pieces before attaching them so the arrangement can be balanced.
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Head
Begin at the lower center of the head and work upward. The head is softly rounded with a fuller cheek area and a gently narrowed crown. Use Color A and the 2.25 mm hook.
- Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 7: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 8: Repeat 6 sc, inc around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 9: Repeat 7 sc, inc around. 54 sts.
- Rnd 10: Repeat 8 sc, inc around. 60 sts.
- Rnd 11: Repeat 9 sc, inc around. 66 sts.
- Rnds 12-20: Sc in each st around. 66 sts.
- Rnd 21: Repeat 9 sc, dec around. 60 sts.
- Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. 60 sts.
- Rnd 23: Repeat 8 sc, dec around. 54 sts.
- Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. 54 sts.
- Rnd 25: Repeat 7 sc, dec around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 26: Repeat 6 sc, dec around. 42 sts.
Insert the safety eyes between Rounds 17 and 18 with 13 visible stitches between the posts. Before securing the washers, confirm that the eyes are level and centered above the muzzle area. Add a small oval of white yarn beside each eye later to imitate the reflective highlights shown in the image.
- Rnd 27: Repeat 5 sc, dec around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 28: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 29: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 30: Repeat 2 sc, dec around. 18 sts.
Stuff the head firmly, concentrating stuffing behind the cheeks, around the eye area, and beneath the crown. Leave the final 18-stitch opening unclosed because the neck will be sewn securely into this opening. FO with a long sewing tail.
Muzzle
Use Color B. The muzzle should form a compact oval that projects gently from the lower face without appearing pointed.
- Rnd 1: Ch 7. Starting in the second ch from the hook, work 5 sc, 3 sc in the last ch. Continue along the opposite side with 4 sc, inc in the final ch. 14 sts.
- Rnd 2: Inc, 4 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 4 sc, inc in each of the last 2 sts. 20 sts.
- Rnd 3: Sc, inc, 4 sc, repeat sc, inc three times, 4 sc, repeat sc, inc twice. 26 sts.
- Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. 26 sts.
FO with a long tail. Add a small amount of stuffing. Pin the muzzle between Rounds 19 and 26 of the head. The upper edge should sit approximately two rounds below the eyes. Sew evenly around the edge and preserve the oval shape.
Nose and Mouth
Using Color C, embroider a compact triangular nose over the center of the muzzle. Make the top edge approximately four stitches wide and bring the lower point down one round. Fill the triangle with horizontal stitches until no cream yarn remains visible.
Bring one brown strand straight downward from the nose point for approximately one-half inch. Divide the strand at the bottom into two short diagonal mouth lines. Keep the mouth delicate and centered so the deer retains the gentle expression shown in the image.
Ears
Outer Ear, Make Two
Use Color A. Each ear is worked from the narrow tip toward the rounded base.
- Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnd 2: Repeat sc, inc around. 9 sts.
- Rnd 3: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 4: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 15 sts.
- Rnd 5: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
- Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 9: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 15 sts.
- Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. 15 sts.
Do not stuff. Flatten the ear and work 7 sc through both layers to close the base. FO with a long tail.
Inner Ear, Make Two
Use Color B. Ch 8. Starting in the second ch from the hook, work sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, 4 dc in the final chain. Continue along the opposite side with hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc. Sl st into the first stitch and FO.
Sew one inner-ear piece onto the front of each outer ear. Keep a narrow cream border visible. Fold the lower corner of each ear inward by approximately one-quarter inch and secure it with two small stitches to create the cupped shape.
Antlers
Make two matching antlers using Color C. The antlers are crocheted over flexible wire so the branches remain upright. Fold the wire ends inward before inserting them to prevent sharp points.
Main Antler Stem, Make Two
- Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnds 2-15: Sc in each st around. 6 sts.
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Insert a narrow wire core wrapped with a small amount of fiberfill. Bend the upper half gently backward. FO with a long tail.
Large Side Branch, Make Two
- Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnds 2-9: Sc in each st around. 6 sts.
Insert a short wire core and FO with a sewing tail.
Small Side Branch, Make Two
- Rnd 1: Work 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
- Rnds 2-6: Sc in each st around. 5 sts.
Insert a short wire core and FO. Sew one large branch to the main stem around Rounds 6-8. Attach one small branch approximately three rounds above the large branch. Angle both branches outward and slightly upward.
Sew the completed antlers to the crown between Head Rounds 7 and 11. Position them approximately 12 stitches apart. The stems should lean outward at about a 15-degree angle. Secure through several head stitches and knot the tails deeply inside the head.
Neck and Torso
The long narrow neck is worked directly into the torso. Use Color A for the neck and change to Color D for the upper body beneath the dress.
- Rnd 1: Work 18 sc in MR. 18 sts.
- Rnds 2-13: Sc in each st around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 14: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 15: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 16: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.
- Rnds 17-19: Sc in each st around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 20: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 30 sts.
- Rnds 21-25: Sc in each st around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 26: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 24 sts.
- Rnds 27-29: Sc in each st around. 24 sts.
Change to Color D at the end of Round 15 if you prefer the dress bodice to blend directly into the torso. Stuff the neck very firmly using small pieces. Add moderate stuffing to the torso while keeping the lower body narrow enough to fit beneath the full skirt.
- Rnd 30: Repeat 2 sc, dec around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 31: Repeat sc, dec around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 32: Dec around. 6 sts.
FO and close the opening. The torso should measure approximately 5 inches from the lower neck to the base. Maintain a straight center line so the finished dress hangs evenly.
Arms, Make Two
Begin with Color C for the small brown hooves, then change to Color A. The arms are long and slender, with a slight increase near the shoulders.
- Rnd 1: With Color C, work 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
- Rnds 3-5: Sc in each st around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 6: Repeat 2 sc, dec around. 9 sts.
- Rnd 7: Change to Color A and work sc in each st around. 9 sts.
- Rnds 8-25: Sc in each st around. 9 sts.
- Rnd 26: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 12 sts.
- Rnds 27-30: Sc in each st around. 12 sts.
Stuff the hoof firmly and the arm lightly. Leave the upper one inch almost unstuffed for easier positioning. Flatten the opening and crochet 6 sc through both layers. FO with a long sewing tail.
Sew the arms to the sides of the torso at Neck Round 16. Angle them downward so the hands fall near the upper skirt. Secure each arm across six body stitches. The left arm may be angled slightly outward to pass through the tote handles.
Legs, Make Two
The cream legs are long and straight, ending in a subtle rounded foot that fits inside the sandals. Use Color A.
- Rnd 1: Ch 7. Starting in the second ch from the hook, work 5 sc, 3 sc in the last ch, 4 sc along the opposite side, inc in the final ch. 14 sts.
- Rnd 2: Inc, 4 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 4 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 20 sts.
- Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 4: BLO sc in each st around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 5: 6 sc, repeat dec three times, 8 sc. 17 sts.
- Rnd 6: 5 sc, repeat dec three times, 6 sc. 14 sts.
- Rnds 7-28: Sc in each st around. 14 sts.
- Rnd 29: Repeat 5 sc, dec twice. 12 sts.
- Rnds 30-35: Sc in each st around. 12 sts.
Stuff the foot firmly, especially beneath the toe. Stuff the lower leg evenly and keep the upper inch lightly filled. Flatten the top and crochet 6 sc through both layers. FO with a long tail.
Sew the legs beneath the torso, leaving approximately four stitches between them. Position each leg slightly forward of the torso center so the doll lies or stands with the dress centered. Reinforce the seam by sewing through the upper leg, torso base, and upper leg again.
Sage Dress Bodice
The dress bodice is worked separately from the skirt so the waist seam remains clean and the full skirt can flare from beneath the fitted top. Use Color D and the 2.75 mm hook.
- Row 1: Ch 31. Starting in the second ch from the hook, work 30 sc. Ch 1 and turn.
- Rows 2-4: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. 30 sts.
- Row 5: 5 sc, ch 8, skip 6 sts, 8 sc, ch 8, skip 6 sts, 5 sc. Ch 1 and turn.
- Row 6: Sc in each sc and each ch across. 34 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
- Rows 7-15: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. 34 sts.
- Row 16: Sc in each st across. FO with a long tail.
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Wrap the bodice around the torso with the opening centered at the back. Sew the back edges together from the waist upward for approximately eight rows. Leave the top section open enough to pass around the neck, then close it neatly with hidden stitches.
The armholes should fit closely around the shoulders. Use a separate strand of sage yarn to sew the lower armhole edges to the torso. This prevents the bodice from shifting when the arms carry the tote and bouquet.
Full Skirt
Join Color D around the lower edge of the bodice. Work in joined rounds, ending each round with a slip stitch into the first stitch. Do not turn unless instructed.
- Rnd 1: Work 36 sc evenly around the bodice waist. 36 sts.
- Rnd 2: Ch 2, work 2 hdc in each st around. Join. 72 sts.
- Rnd 3: Ch 2, repeat 2 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st around. Join. 96 sts.
- Rnd 4: Ch 2, repeat 3 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st around. Join. 120 sts.
- Rnds 5-9: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. 120 sts.
- Rnd 10: Ch 2, repeat 9 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st around. Join. 132 sts.
- Rnds 11-18: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. 132 sts.
- Rnd 19: Ch 2, repeat 10 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st around. Join. 144 sts.
- Rnds 20-26: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. 144 sts.
- Rnd 27: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 144 sts.
- Rnd 28: Ch 1, reverse sc in each st around for a firm corded hem. Join and FO.
Steam or lightly block the skirt so it forms the wide bell shape visible in the reference image. Do not stretch the waist. Spread only the lower half of the skirt and pin the hem into a smooth circle while drying.
Large Crocheted Roses
Make eight to ten roses in pink, dusty rose, and medium pink. Vary the chain length slightly to produce different sizes.
- Small rose: Ch 21. Work 2 hdc in the second ch from the hook and 2 hdc in each remaining ch. FO.
- Medium rose: Ch 26. Work 2 hdc in the second ch and 2 hdc in each remaining ch. FO.
- Large rose: Ch 31. Work 2 hdc in the second ch and alternate 2 hdc and 3 hdc in each chain to the end. FO.
Roll each strip tightly for the first three coils and more loosely around the outer edge. Sew through every layer across the back. Flatten the outermost petals slightly before placing the roses on the skirt.
Daisies
Make ten to twelve daisies with white petals and yellow centers. Create a few smaller daisies by using only five petals.
- Center: With yellow, work 6 sc in MR. Join and FO.
- Petal round: Join white in any stitch. Repeat ch 4, dc in the second ch from the hook, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch, sl st in the same center stitch, sl st in the next center stitch. Repeat around for six petals.
FO and weave the tail through the back. Keep the petals flat rather than cupped. Sew through the yellow center only so the white petals remain dimensional.
Five-Petal Blossoms
Make twelve to sixteen small blossoms in pale pink, blue, lavender, and purple.
- Work 5 sc in MR.
- Join with a sl st.
- Repeat ch 2, 2 dc in the same stitch, ch 2, sl st in the same stitch for each of the five stitches.
- FO and tighten the center.
Add a French knot or a small straight stitch in yellow, white, or pale pink at the center of each blossom.
Lavender Sprigs
Make six to eight lavender sprigs in purple or lavender with green stems.
- With green, ch 14.
- Starting in the second ch, sl st in each chain to form the stem.
- Join purple at the top.
- Working downward around the upper eight chains, repeat ch 3, sl st in the second ch, sc in the next ch, sl st around the stem.
- Place two tiny purple clusters around each selected chain.
FO and leave a sewing tail. Slightly curve the stem before attaching it to the skirt.
Leaves
Make approximately twenty-four leaves in sage, olive, and light green. Use two sizes to create the layered botanical appearance.
Small Leaf
Ch 5. Starting in the second ch from the hook, work sc, hdc, dc, 5 dc in the last ch. Continue along the opposite side with dc, hdc, sc. Sl st into the base and FO.
Large Leaf
Ch 7. Starting in the second ch, work sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, 6 tr in the final ch. Continue along the opposite side with 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc. Sl st into the base and FO.
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Floral Skirt Arrangement
Arrange the largest roses around the lower third of the skirt. Place one dusty-pink rose slightly left of center and one medium-pink rose near the lower right. Add several smaller roses near the side seams and around the upper floral area.
Position daisies between the roses, leaving small areas of sage fabric visible. Add lavender stems in vertical groups of two or three. Scatter blue and pink blossoms near the upper skirt, then fill empty spaces with small leaves and embroidered curling stems.
- Sew the flower centers firmly while leaving the petal edges free.
- Place leaves beneath large flowers before securing the flowers.
- Use green backstitch to create stems connecting separate blossoms.
- Use lazy-daisy embroidery stitches for tiny flat leaves.
- Keep the back of the skirt less decorated so the doll can lie flat.
- Avoid placing bulky flowers directly beneath the arms.
Flower Crown
The crown sits across the forehead in front of the antlers. It includes pink roses, lavender roses, purple flowers, and green leaves.
Crown Base
With green, ch 39. Starting in the second ch from the hook, sl st in each ch across. FO with long tails at both ends. Test the band around the head before decorating it.
Crown Flowers
- Make one medium dusty-pink rose.
- Make two pale-pink roses.
- Make two lavender roses.
- Make two small purple five-petal blossoms.
- Make six small green leaves.
Sew the medium dusty-pink rose at the center. Place pale-pink roses beside it, followed by lavender and purple flowers. Insert leaves between the flowers. Sew the crown across Head Rounds 10-13, directly above the eyes and beneath the antler branches.
Garden Sun Hat
Use Color E and the 2.75 mm hook. Work the crown and brim as one piece in joined rounds.
- Rnd 1: Work 8 sc in MR. Join. 8 sts.
- Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. Join. 16 sts.
- Rnd 3: Repeat sc, inc around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 32 sts.
- Rnd 5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 40 sts.
- Rnd 6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 7: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 56 sts.
- Rnd 8: BLO sc in each st around. 56 sts.
- Rnds 9-14: Sc in each st around. Join. 56 sts.
- Rnd 15: FLO repeat 6 sc, inc around. 64 sts.
- Rnd 16: Repeat 7 sc, inc around. 72 sts.
- Rnd 17: Repeat 8 sc, inc around. 80 sts.
- Rnd 18: Repeat 9 sc, inc around. 88 sts.
- Rnd 19: Repeat 10 sc, inc around. 96 sts.
- Rnd 20: Repeat 11 sc, inc around. 104 sts.
- Rnds 21-22: Sc in each st around. Join. 104 sts.
- Rnd 23: Reverse sc in each st around. Join and FO.
For a firmer brim, cut a ring of thin plastic canvas slightly smaller than the brim. Place it against the underside and secure it with evenly spaced stitches. Do not use exposed wire around the outer edge.
Hat Band and Decorations
With pale pink, ch 62 and sl st back across the chain. Wrap the band around the lower crown and sew the ends together. Make three small roses in pink, dusty rose, and lavender, four small leaves, and two tiny white buds.
Sew the flowers to the lower left side of the hat. Add a small white daisy and a miniature yellow bee to the right side of the brim.
Miniature Bee
- With yellow, work 6 sc in MR.
- Work sc in each stitch for two rounds.
- Change to brown and work one round of sc.
- Change to yellow and work one round of sc.
- Dec around and close.
For each wing, join white yarn to the bee body, ch 3, work 2 dc into the same attachment point, ch 3, and sl st into the body. Repeat on the opposite side.
Striped Garden Tote
The tote has a tan base, two cream stripes, brown handles, and a pink rose decoration. Use Color F for the lower section.
- Rnd 1: Ch 19. Starting in the second ch, work 17 sc, 3 sc in the last ch, 16 sc along the opposite side, inc in the final ch. 38 sts.
- Rnd 2: Inc, 16 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 16 sc, inc in each of the last 2 sts. 44 sts.
- Rnd 3: BLO sc in each st around. 44 sts.
- Rnds 4-9: Sc in each st around with tan. 44 sts.
- Rnds 10-12: Change to cream and sc around. 44 sts.
- Rnds 13-17: Change to tan and sc around. 44 sts.
- Rnds 18-20: Change to cream and sc around. 44 sts.
- Rnd 21: Change to tan and sc around. 44 sts.
- Rnd 22: Reverse sc around. FO.
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Tote Handles, Make Two
With medium brown, ch 43. Starting in the second ch, sl st in each chain. Turn the chain slightly and work one sc into each chain ridge along the opposite side. FO with long tails.
Sew one handle to the front and one to the back. Position the ends approximately eight stitches apart. Reinforce each attachment point with several stitches. Add one medium pink rose, two green leaves, and one small hanging bud to the front lower corner.
Miniature Watering Can
Use Color G. The watering can consists of a rounded body, top rim, curved handle, long spout, and flared sprinkler head.
Watering Can Body
- Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnd 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 3: Repeat sc, inc around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
- Rnds 6-10: Sc around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 11: Repeat 2 sc, dec around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 12: Repeat sc, dec around. 12 sts.
Stuff lightly. Insert a small circle of plastic canvas in the base if desired. FO and close the top, leaving a small central opening appearance by embroidering a dark-blue ring.
Spout
- Work 6 sc in MR.
- Sc around for 13 rounds.
- Stuff very lightly or insert a folded pipe cleaner.
- FO with a long tail.
Sew the lower end to the side of the can around Body Rounds 5-8. Angle the spout upward.
Sprinkler Head
- Work 6 sc in MR.
- Inc around. 12 sts.
- Sc around for one round.
- FO and sew over the spout tip.
Handle
Ch 27. Starting in the second ch, sl st in each chain. Place a narrow pipe cleaner beneath the chain and whipstitch over it with matching yarn. Bend the handle into a wide curve and sew both ends to the upper body.
Wildflower Bouquet
Make one fern, one lavender stalk, one blue flower, one white daisy, and two small pink blossoms. Add four green stems of different lengths.
Fern
With green, ch 16. Starting in the second chain, repeat sl st in the next chain, ch 5, sl st in the second chain from the hook, sc, hdc, dc, sl st back into the main stem chain. Continue down the stem, reducing the branch chain to four chains near the tip.
Bouquet Stems
For each stem, ch 12-18 and sl st back across. Sew one flower or leaf piece to the top. Gather all stems together and wrap the lower two inches tightly with green yarn. Add a small tan tie around the center.
Open-Toe Sandals
Make two sandal soles in Color F and two upper edging pieces in pale cream. The sandals should fit closely beneath the crocheted feet.
Sole, Make Four
- Rnd 1: Ch 8. Starting in the second ch, work 6 sc, 4 sc in the last ch, 5 sc along the opposite side, 3 sc in the final ch. 18 sts.
- Rnd 2: Inc, 5 sc, inc in each of the next 4 sts, 5 sc, inc in each of the last 3 sts. 26 sts.
- Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. 26 sts.
FO two sole pieces. Place one optional plastic-canvas insert between two matching sole pieces. Join the pieces with sc through both layers, using Color F. Repeat for the second sandal.
Toe Strap
Join pale cream yarn to one side of the sole, approximately seven stitches from the toe center. Ch 12, pass the chain over the foot, and sl st into the corresponding stitch on the opposite side. Turn and work 12 sc around the chain. FO securely.
Ankle Strap
Join pale cream near the inner side of the heel. Ch 22, wrap the chain around the ankle, and secure it to the outer heel. Work sl st back across the chain before fastening off.
Sandal Flower
Make one tiny dusty-pink flower for each sandal. Work 5 sc in MR, then create five petals using ch 2, hdc, ch 2, sl st in each stitch. Add one white knot in the center and sew the flower to the front strap.
Facial Embroidery and Eyelashes
Use black embroidery thread to create five upper eyelashes on each eye. Begin close to the outer eye edge. Make the first lash short, the middle lashes longest, and the inner lash slightly shorter. Angle the lashes outward rather than straight upward.
Add two shorter lower lashes beneath each eye. Keep them light and well separated. Do not pull the thread tightly because it can indent the face. Secure the thread inside the head with a concealed knot.
Embroider one small white highlight on the upper left area of each black eye. Add a smaller pale-blue or white stitch near the lower edge to imitate the glossy reflections visible in the image.
Apply a very small amount of pink blush beside the muzzle and beneath each eye. Blend it gradually into the cream yarn. The blush should remain subtle and should not cover the stitch texture.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
- Sew the neck opening firmly into the lower head opening, inserting the neck approximately one-half inch into the head.
- Confirm that the eyes, nose, and muzzle face straight forward before tightening the neck seam.
- Attach the ears behind the flower crown with their tips angled slightly outward.
- Reinforce the antlers from inside the crown area so they remain symmetrical.
- Position the arms and legs before adding the dress decorations.
- Place the tote over the left forearm and secure one handle with a removable yarn loop.
- Place the bouquet near the left side of the tote or stitch it lightly beneath one handle.
- Display the watering can beside the doll rather than permanently attaching it.
- Shape the skirt into a smooth bell and adjust all raised flowers.
- Place the hat beside the doll or loosely over the antlers for display.
Care Notes
Spot-clean the doll using cool water and a small amount of mild soap. Avoid soaking the antlers, hat brim, watering-can handle, or any pieces containing wire or plastic canvas. Blot moisture with a clean towel and reshape the doll immediately.
Allow every component to air-dry completely on a flat surface. Keep the floral skirt spread evenly while drying. Do not machine wash, tumble dry, bleach, iron, or expose the safety eyes and synthetic stuffing to high heat.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Both eyes are level and have matching highlights.
- The muzzle is centered beneath the eyes.
- The antlers are equally spaced and securely reinforced.
- The ears sit behind the crown at matching angles.
- The neck is firm enough to support the head.
- The dress waist sits level around the torso.
- The skirt flowers are balanced across the front and sides.
- The arms and legs are symmetrical.
- The sandals fit securely without twisting the feet.
- The hat brim lies flat and the decorative flowers face outward.
- The tote handles are reinforced and evenly placed.
- All wire ends are folded, covered, and inaccessible.
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Remove loose accessories before cleaning. Dust the doll with a soft makeup brush, working gently around the eyelashes, flower crown, dress appliques, and embroidered stems. Support each raised flower from beneath while brushing so the petals are not stretched.
For a small stain, dampen a white cloth with cool water and mild soap. Dab the affected stitches without rubbing. Use a second damp cloth to remove soap residue, then press the area between dry towels.
Store the deer girl upright or flat in a breathable cotton bag. Do not compress the antlers, hat, or full skirt. Keep the doll away from direct sunlight, high humidity, smoke, perfumes, and dark fabrics that may transfer dye.
Place acid-free tissue beneath the skirt and inside the hat during long-term storage. Reposition the arms, flowers, and accessories every few months to prevent permanent flattening. With careful handling, the detailed floral decorations and sculpted antlers will retain their shape for many seasons.



