Knitting Tutorial: Curly Garden Sheep in Fair Isle Cardigan with Glasses and Leaf Satchel – Free Knitting Pattern.

This detailed knitting pattern creates a curly garden sheep wearing a deep green Fair Isle cardigan, a cream shirt, ribbed green trousers, peach-colored glasses, and embroidered sandals. The finished sheep also includes a leaf-decorated crossbody satchel, a striped garden beanie with a pom-pom, a blue watering can, a small tan basket, miniature flowers, and a full crown of soft cream curls.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

The sheep is knitted primarily in the round so that the main body parts have smooth surfaces and minimal visible seams. The cardigan and smaller accessories are worked flat or in the round as indicated. The curly fleece is created with knitted loop stitches arranged over a fitted cap.

• Skill level: Intermediate, with detailed instructions suitable for patient beginners.
• Finished sheep height: Approximately 14 inches or 35.5 cm from the sandals to the top curls.
• Head width: Approximately 6 inches or 15 cm, including the curls.
• Body width: Approximately 4.5 inches or 11.5 cm before clothing.
• Cardigan chest circumference: Approximately 11 inches or 28 cm.
• Construction: Knitted body, separate head, attached arms, removable clothing, and removable accessories.

Materials

• DK-weight yarn in warm ivory for the sheep’s skin and feet, approximately 110 yards.
• DK-weight boucle or softly twisted yarn in cream for the curly fleece, approximately 140 yards.
• DK-weight yarn in deep garden green for the cardigan, trousers, and hat, approximately 180 yards.
• DK-weight yarn in natural cream for the shirt and cardigan motifs, approximately 55 yards.
• DK-weight yarn in warm camel tan for cardigan details, sandals, basket, satchel, and hat stripes, approximately 90 yards.
• DK-weight yarn in soft peach for the glasses and sandal trim, approximately 20 yards.
• DK-weight yarn in dusty blue for the watering can, approximately 35 yards.
• Small amounts of yellow, sky blue, leaf green, brown, and black yarn for flowers and embroidery.
• US size 3 or 3.25 mm double-pointed needles or a long circular needle for magic loop.
• US size 3 or 3.25 mm straight or circular needles for flat pieces.
• Two 16 mm dark brown safety eyes.
• One 15 mm black safety nose with a rounded triangular shape.
• Polyester toy stuffing.
• Four small snaps for the shirt and cardigan, if desired.
• Stitch markers, locking markers, tapestry needle, scissors, pins, and a row counter.
• A small piece of firm plastic canvas is optional for supporting the satchel and watering can.

Gauge and Tension

Work a small stockinette swatch before beginning. A firm gauge prevents stuffing from showing through the fabric and helps the removable clothing fit correctly.

• Stockinette gauge: 24 stitches and 32 rounds equal 4 inches or 10 cm.
• Fair Isle gauge: 25 stitches and 32 rows equal 4 inches or 10 cm.
• Needle adjustment: Use a smaller needle if the fabric is loose or a larger needle if the fabric is extremely stiff.
• Stuffing tension: Stuff firmly enough to hold the form, but do not stretch the stitches.

Abbreviations

• BO: Bind off.
• CO: Cast on.
• DPN: Double-pointed needle.
• K: Knit.
• K2tog: Knit two stitches together.
• Kfb: Knit into the front and back of the same stitch.
• M1L: Make one left increase.
• M1R: Make one right increase.
• P: Purl.
• P2tog: Purl two stitches together.
• PM: Place marker.
• Rep: Repeat.
• Rnd: Round.
• RS: Right side.
• Sl: Slip.
• SSK: Slip, slip, knit the slipped stitches together.
• St or sts: Stitch or stitches.
• WS: Wrong side.

Special Techniques

Knitted Loop Stitch

Insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to knit. Wrap the working yarn over the right needle, around the left thumb, and over the right needle again. Pull both wraps through the stitch, remove the thumb, and pass the first new loop over the second loop. One loop stitch is completed.

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Three-Stitch I-Cord

CO 3 sts. Knit the 3 sts, slide them back to the opposite end of the needle without turning, pull the yarn firmly across the back, and knit the 3 sts again. Repeat until the stated number of rows has been completed.

Four-Stitch I-Cord

CO 4 sts. Knit all 4 sts, slide them back to the opposite end of the needle without turning, pull the yarn firmly across the back, and knit again. Continue for the required length.

Color Key for Fair Isle Sections

• G: Deep garden green.
• C: Natural cream.
• T: Warm camel tan.

Carry unused colors loosely across the wrong side. Catch floats longer than five stitches by twisting the unused strand once with the working strand. Do not pull the floats tightly, especially across the sleeves and shoulders.

Sheep Legs, Feet, and Lower Body

Make two identical legs in warm ivory. Each leg begins at the toe and is worked upward. Use a movable marker to identify the beginning of each round.

First Leg

1. Using a Turkish cast-on, CO 8 sts on each of two needles, creating 16 sts total.
2. Rnd 1: K16.
3. Rnd 2: Work K1, M1R, K6, M1L, K1 on each half of the foot. You now have 20 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Work K1, M1R, K8, M1L, K1 on each half. You now have 24 sts.
5. Rnd 4: Work K1, M1R, K10, M1L, K1 on each half. You now have 28 sts.
6. Rnds 5-12: K28.
7. Rnd 13: Work K1, SSK, K8, K2tog, K1 twice. You now have 24 sts.
8. Rnd 14: K24.
9. Rnd 15: Work K1, SSK, K6, K2tog, K1 twice. You now have 20 sts.
10. Rnds 16-34: K20.

Stuff the foot firmly, placing extra stuffing in the toe. Stuff the lower leg more lightly so that the trousers can slide over it. Cut the yarn and place the 20 live stitches on waste yarn.

Second Leg and Joining Round

Work the second leg exactly as the first, but do not cut the yarn after Rnd 34. Arrange both feet so that the toes point forward and the round beginnings face the inner legs.

1. K20 across the second leg.
2. CO 4 sts using the backward-loop method for the front crotch.
3. K20 across the first leg.
4. CO 4 sts for the back crotch.
5. PM for the new beginning of the round. You now have 48 sts.

Lower Body

1. Rnds 1-10: K48.
2. Rnd 11: Work K10, K2tog four times. You now have 44 sts.
3. Rnds 12-18: K44.
4. Rnd 19: Work K9, K2tog four times. You now have 40 sts.
5. Rnds 20-26: K40.
6. Rnd 27: Work K3, K2tog eight times. You now have 32 sts.
7. Rnds 28-30: K32.
8. BO all 32 sts loosely, leaving a 24-inch sewing tail.

Stuff the joined body evenly. Shape a softly rounded seat at the back and a flatter front beneath the shirt. Keep the upper chest firm so the head will remain upright after assembly.

Arms and Hands

Make two arms in warm ivory. The rounded cast-on creates a smooth hand without a bulky seam.

1. Using a Turkish cast-on, CO 8 sts on each side for 16 sts total.
2. Rnd 1: K16.
3. Rnd 2: Work K1, M1R, K6, M1L, K1 on each half. You now have 20 sts.
4. Rnds 3-10: K20.
5. Rnd 11: Work K8, K2tog twice. You now have 18 sts.
6. Rnds 12-30: K18.
7. Stuff the hand firmly and the upper arm lightly.
8. Flatten the final round and close it with a three-needle bind-off or mattress stitch.

Position each arm approximately 0.5 inch or 1.3 cm below the top body edge. Angle the arms downward by about 15 degrees. Sew the upper four rounds securely to the body while leaving the lower portion movable.

Round Sheep Head

The head is worked from the lower neck opening toward the crown. Use warm ivory yarn and distribute the stitches evenly over the needles.

1. CO 12 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: K12.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in every stitch. You now have 24 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Work K2, M1L eight times. You now have 32 sts.
5. Rnd 4: Work K3, M1L eight times. You now have 40 sts.
6. Rnd 5: Work K4, M1L eight times. You now have 48 sts.
7. Rnd 6: Work K5, M1L eight times. You now have 56 sts.
8. Rnd 7: Work K6, M1L eight times. You now have 64 sts.
9. Rnd 8: Work K7, M1L eight times. You now have 72 sts.
10. Rnds 9-27: K72.
11. Rnd 28: Work K7, K2tog eight times. You now have 64 sts.
12. Rnd 29: Work K6, K2tog eight times. You now have 56 sts.
13. Rnd 30: Work K5, K2tog eight times. You now have 48 sts.
14. Rnd 31: Work K4, K2tog eight times. You now have 40 sts.
15. Rnd 32: Work K3, K2tog eight times. You now have 32 sts.

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Begin stuffing the head firmly. Keep the front smooth and create a wide rounded cheek area. Add stuffing around the outer sides rather than pressing heavily behind the eyes.

1. Rnd 33: Work K2, K2tog eight times. You now have 24 sts.
2. Rnd 34: Work K1, K2tog eight times. You now have 16 sts.
3. Rnd 35: K2tog eight times. You now have 8 sts.
4. Cut the yarn, thread it through the remaining stitches, pull firmly, and secure inside the head.

Knitted Eye Patches and Eye Placement

Make two circular eye patches in warm ivory. These slightly raised circles create the large expressive eyes visible behind the peach glasses.

1. CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: K8.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in every stitch. You now have 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Work K1, Kfb eight times. You now have 24 sts.
5. Rnd 4: K24.
6. BO loosely.

Insert one safety eye through the center opening of each patch. Pin the patches on the head with their centers between Rnds 18 and 19. Leave 10 knitted head stitches between the inner edges of the two patches.

Push each safety-eye stem through both the patch and the head. Secure the washers inside before the head is completely closed. Sew the outer edge of each eye patch down with small invisible stitches.

Oval Muzzle and Nose

The muzzle is worked as a shallow oval pocket. Use warm ivory yarn and the same needle size as the head.

1. Using a Turkish cast-on, CO 8 sts on each side for 16 sts total.
2. Rnd 1: K16.
3. Rnd 2: Work K1, M1R, K6, M1L, K1 on each half. You now have 20 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Work K1, M1R, K8, M1L, K1 on each half. You now have 24 sts.
5. Rnd 4: Work K1, M1R, K10, M1L, K1 on each half. You now have 28 sts.
6. Rnds 5-8: K28.
7. BO all stitches loosely.

Insert the black safety nose at the exact center of the muzzle between Rnds 5 and 6. Add a small amount of stuffing, then pin the muzzle beneath the eye patches. The top edge should sit approximately two stitches below the eye centers.

Sew the muzzle to the head while maintaining a broad oval shape. Using black yarn, make one vertical straight stitch extending 0.75 inch or 2 cm downward from the nose. Add two short diagonal stitches at the bottom to form a subtle inverted Y-shaped mouth.

Curly Fleece Cap

The full curly crown is a fitted knitted cap covered with loop stitches. Use cream fleece yarn. Keep the loops approximately 0.5 inch or 1.3 cm long for compact, rounded curls.

1. CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: K8.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in every stitch. You now have 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Work K1, Kfb eight times. You now have 24 sts.
5. Rnd 4: Work K2, Kfb eight times. You now have 32 sts.
6. Rnd 5: Work K3, Kfb eight times. You now have 40 sts.
7. Rnd 6: Work K4, Kfb eight times. You now have 48 sts.
8. Rnd 7: Work K5, Kfb eight times. You now have 56 sts.
9. Rnd 8: Work K6, Kfb eight times. You now have 64 sts.
10. Rnd 9: Work K7, Kfb eight times. You now have 72 sts.
11. Rnd 10: K72.
12. Rnd 11: Work one loop stitch, K1 around.
13. Rnd 12: K72.
14. Rnd 13: K1, then work one loop stitch, K1 around, ending with one loop stitch.
15. Rnd 14: K72.
16. Rnds 15-24: Repeat Rnds 11-14 twice, then repeat Rnds 11-12 once.
17. Rnds 25-26: K72.
18. BO loosely in knit.

Place the cap over the crown with the cast-on center aligned to the top of the head. The lower edge should sit just above the eye patches in front and extend lower behind the ears. Sew the edge down using cream yarn.

After sewing, separate and fluff every loop with the tapestry needle. Twist a few neighboring loops together to create the clustered ringlets shown around the forehead and upper cheeks.

Curly Floppy Ears

Make two ears with cream fleece yarn. The ears are worked flat and use loop stitches on alternate right-side rows.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1, WS: P10.
3. Row 2, RS: K1, M1L, K8, M1R, K1. You now have 12 sts.
4. Row 3: P12.
5. Row 4: K1, M1L, work loop stitches across 10 sts, M1R, K1. You now have 14 sts.
6. Row 5: P14.
7. Row 6: K1, M1L, work loop stitches across 12 sts, M1R, K1. You now have 16 sts.
8. Row 7: P16.
9. Row 8: K1, M1L, work loop stitches across 14 sts, M1R, K1. You now have 18 sts.
10. Rows 9-20: Purl all WS rows. On each RS row, K1, work loop stitches across 16 sts, K1.
11. Row 21: P18.
12. Row 22: K1, SSK, work loop stitches across 12 sts, K2tog, K1. You now have 16 sts.
13. Row 23: P16.
14. Row 24: K1, SSK, work loop stitches across 10 sts, K2tog, K1. You now have 14 sts.
15. Row 25: P14.
16. Row 26: K1, SSK, work loop stitches across 8 sts, K2tog, K1. You now have 12 sts.
17. Row 27: P12.
18. Row 28: K1, SSK, K6, K2tog, K1. You now have 10 sts.
19. BO all stitches.

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Fold the cast-on edge of each ear slightly to form a shallow cup. Sew each ear beneath the fleece cap approximately 1 inch or 2.5 cm behind the outer edge of the eye patch. Angle each ear downward by about 30 degrees.

Peach Round Glasses

The glasses consist of two I-cord rings, one bridge, and two short temple arms. Use soft peach yarn and work the I-cord firmly so that the frames hold their shape.

Lens Frames

1. Make two separate three-stitch I-cords, each 30 rows long.
2. BO, leaving a 10-inch tail on each piece.
3. Curve each I-cord into a circle approximately 1.75 inches or 4.5 cm across.
4. Join the cast-on and bind-off ends invisibly.

Bridge and Temple Arms

• For the bridge, work one three-stitch I-cord for 8 rows.
• For each temple arm, work one three-stitch I-cord for 18 rows.
• Make two temple arms total.

Place one circular frame around each knitted eye patch. Leave approximately 0.25 inch or 6 mm between the two frames. Sew the bridge between the inner upper edges.

Attach one temple arm to the outer edge of each frame. Curve the arms backward and tack the ends beneath the fleece cap beside the ears. Add several hidden stitches around each frame so the glasses remain centered.

Small Flowers and Leaves for the Fleece

Make one sky-blue flower and one yellow flower. Each flower uses five individually knitted petals.

One Petal

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1: Kfb, K1, Kfb. You now have 5 sts.
3. Row 2: P5.
4. Row 3: SSK, K1, K2tog. You now have 3 sts.
5. Row 4: Sl 1, K2tog, pass the slipped stitch over. One stitch remains.
6. Cut the yarn and pull it through the final stitch.

Make five petals in blue and five petals in yellow. Arrange each set into a circle and sew the petal bases together. Add a yellow French knot to the blue flower and a cream French knot to the yellow flower.

Green Leaves

1. CO 3 sts in leaf green.
2. Row 1: Kfb, K1, Kfb. You now have 5 sts.
3. Row 2: P5.
4. Row 3: SSK, K1, K2tog. You now have 3 sts.
5. Row 4: Sl 1, K2tog, pass the slipped stitch over.

Make four leaves. Sew two leaves beneath each flower. Attach the blue and yellow flowers together on the upper right side of the fleece cap, approximately 1 inch or 2.5 cm above the right glasses frame.

Cream Open-Back Shirt

The cream shirt is worked flat with a back opening so it can be placed around the sheep’s large head. The cardigan will cover most of the back seam.

1. CO 54 sts in natural cream.
2. Rows 1-4: Work K1, P1 rib across all stitches.
3. Row 5, RS: K54.
4. Row 6, WS: K3, P48, K3.
5. Rows 7-26: Repeat Rows 5-6 ten times.
6. Row 27, RS: K12, BO 4, K22, BO 4, K12.

Right Back Shoulder

1. Work only the first 12 sts.
2. Work 12 rows in stockinette while keeping the outer 3 back-edge stitches in garter stitch.
3. BO all 12 sts.

Front

1. Return the center 22 sts to the needle.
2. Work 6 rows in stockinette.
3. Next RS row: K6, BO 10, K6.
4. Work each 6-st shoulder separately for 6 additional rows.
5. BO each shoulder.

Left Back Shoulder

Work the final 12 sts for 12 rows, matching the right back. Keep the outer 3 stitches in garter stitch and BO all stitches.

Sew each 6-st front shoulder to the outer 6 stitches of the corresponding back shoulder. Leave the inner back sections free to form the rear neckline. Add two small snaps along the back opening.

Deep Green Ribbed Trousers

The trousers are knitted from the lower cuffs upward. Make the two legs separately, then join them at the crotch.

First Trouser Leg

1. CO 24 sts in deep garden green and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-10: Work K2, P2 rib around.
3. Rnds 11-34: K24.
4. Cut the yarn and place the stitches on waste yarn.

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Second Trouser Leg and Joining

1. Work the second leg exactly as the first, but do not cut the yarn.
2. K24 across the second leg.
3. CO 2 sts for the front crotch.
4. K24 across the first leg.
5. CO 2 sts for the back crotch. You now have 52 sts.
6. Rnds 1-10: K52.
7. Rnd 11: Work K11, K2tog four times. You now have 48 sts.
8. Rnds 12-18: K48.
9. Rnds 19-24: Work K2, P2 rib.
10. BO using a stretchy bind-off.

Turn the lower ribbed cuffs upward approximately 0.75 inch or 2 cm and tack them at the inner leg seams. Dress the sheep before attaching the head permanently.

Fair Isle Garden Cardigan

The cardigan is worked flat from the lower edge to the underarms. The front bands remain in garter stitch. The 57 center stitches hold three complete 19-stitch garden-diamond motifs.

Cardigan Body

1. CO 67 sts in deep garden green.
2. Rows 1-6: K5, work K1, P1 rib across the next 57 sts, K5.
3. Row 7, RS: K67.
4. Row 8, WS: K5, P57, K5.

Lower Fair Isle Bands

1. Row 9, RS: K5 in G, work G2, C1 nineteen times, K5 in G.
2. Row 10, WS: K5 in G, P57 in G, K5 in G.
3. Row 11, RS: K5 in G, work G1, T1, G1 nineteen times, K5 in G.
4. Row 12, WS: K5 in G, P57 in G, K5 in G.

Nineteen-Stitch Garden Diamond Motif

On every RS motif row, K5 in G, repeat the stated 19-st sequence three times, then K5 in G. On every WS row, K5 in G, purl the center stitches in the colors established, then K5 in G.

1. Motif Row 1: G19.
2. Motif Row 2: G8, C3, G8.
3. Motif Row 3: G7, C5, G7.
4. Motif Row 4: G6, C2, T3, C2, G6.
5. Motif Row 5: G5, C3, T3, C3, G5.
6. Motif Row 6: G4, C4, T3, C4, G4.
7. Motif Row 7: G3, C5, T3, C5, G3.
8. Motif Row 8: G2, C6, T3, C6, G2.
9. Motif Row 9: G2, C6, T3, C6, G2.
10. Motif Row 10: G3, C5, T3, C5, G3.
11. Motif Row 11: G4, C4, T3, C4, G4.
12. Motif Row 12: G5, C3, T3, C3, G5.
13. Motif Row 13: G6, C2, T3, C2, G6.
14. Motif Row 14: G7, C5, G7.
15. Motif Row 15: G8, C3, G8.
16. Motif Row 16: G19.

Work the 16 motif rows directly after Body Row 12. After the motif is complete, continue as follows.

1. Next two rows: Work in G, keeping the first and last 5 sts in garter stitch.
2. Next RS row: K5 in G, work C1, G2 nineteen times, K5 in G.
3. Next WS row: K5 in G, P57 in G, K5 in G.
4. Next RS row: K5 in G, work T1, G2 nineteen times, K5 in G.
5. Next WS row: K5 in G, P57 in G, K5 in G.
6. Next four rows: Continue in G, keeping the front bands in garter stitch.

Dividing the Cardigan Body

On the next RS row, K16 for the right front, BO 4 for the first underarm, K27 for the back, BO 4 for the second underarm, and K16 for the left front. Place all live sections on a spare needle.

Cardigan Sleeves

Make two sleeves. Work each sleeve in the round from the cuff upward.

1. CO 28 sts in G and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-6: Work K2, P2 rib.
3. Rnd 7: K14, M1L, K14, M1L. You now have 30 sts.
4. Rnds 8-11: K30.
5. Rnd 12: K15, M1L, K15, M1L. You now have 32 sts.
6. Rnd 13: K32 in G.
7. Rnd 14: Work G2, C1, G1 eight times.
8. Rnd 15: K32 in G.
9. Rnd 16: Work G1, T1, G2 eight times.
10. Rnd 17: K32 in G.

Eight-Stitch Sleeve Motif

Repeat each stated 8-st sequence four times around the sleeve.

1. Motif Rnd 1: G8.
2. Motif Rnd 2: G3, C2, G3.
3. Motif Rnd 3: G2, C1, T2, C1, G2.
4. Motif Rnd 4: G1, C2, T2, C2, G1.
5. Motif Rnd 5: G1, C2, T2, C2, G1.
6. Motif Rnd 6: G2, C1, T2, C1, G2.
7. Motif Rnd 7: G3, C2, G3.
8. Motif Rnd 8: G8.

1. After the motif, work 7 rounds in G.
2. On the next round, BO 4 centered underarm stitches.
3. Place the remaining 28 sleeve stitches on waste yarn.

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Joining the Cardigan Yoke

Place all sections onto one needle in this order: 16 right-front stitches, 28 first-sleeve stitches, 27 back stitches, 28 second-sleeve stitches, and 16 left-front stitches. You have 115 stitches.

On the first joining row, decrease one stitch at each end of both sleeves to improve the underarm fit. This reduces the total to 111 stitches.

1. Joining Row 1, RS: K16, PM, SSK, K24, K2tog, PM, K27, PM, SSK, K24, K2tog, PM, K16. You now have 111 sts.
2. Joining Row 2, WS: K5, purl to the final 5 sts, K5.

For every following RS raglan row, K5, knit to two stitches before the first marker, K2tog, slip marker, SSK, and continue. Repeat the same paired decrease at all four markers. Eight stitches are decreased on each RS raglan row.

1. Raglan Rows 1-2: Work one RS decrease row and one WS row. You now have 103 sts.
2. Raglan Rows 3-4: Repeat. You now have 95 sts.
3. Raglan Rows 5-6: Repeat. You now have 87 sts.
4. Raglan Rows 7-8: Repeat. You now have 79 sts.
5. Raglan Rows 9-10: Repeat. You now have 71 sts.
6. Raglan Rows 11-12: Repeat. You now have 63 sts.
7. Raglan Rows 13-14: Repeat. You now have 55 sts.
8. Raglan Rows 15-16: Repeat. You now have 47 sts.
9. Raglan Rows 17-18: Repeat. You now have 39 sts.
10. Raglan Rows 19-20: Repeat. You now have 31 sts.

Work two final rows in G without decreasing, keeping the five-stitch bands in garter stitch. BO all stitches loosely. Sew the four underarm openings closed with mattress stitch.

Lightly steam the cardigan without flattening the Fair Isle texture. Place it on the sheep, fold the front edges outward slightly, and leave the cream shirt visible through the center opening.

Striped Garden Beanie

The removable beanie is sized to rest beside the sheep or fit over the upper curls with a slightly loose appearance.

1. CO 60 sts in G and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-8: Work K2, P2 rib in G.
3. Rnds 9-12: K60 in G.
4. Rnds 13-14: K60 in T.
5. Rnds 15-18: K60 in G.
6. Rnds 19-20: K60 in C.
7. Rnds 21-24: K60 in G.
8. Rnds 25-26: K60 in T.
9. Rnds 27-30: K60 in G.
10. Rnd 31: Work K8, K2tog six times. You now have 54 sts.
11. Rnd 32: K54.
12. Rnd 33: Work K7, K2tog six times. You now have 48 sts.
13. Rnd 34: K48.
14. Rnd 35: Work K6, K2tog six times. You now have 42 sts.
15. Rnd 36: Work K5, K2tog six times. You now have 36 sts.
16. Rnd 37: Work K4, K2tog six times. You now have 30 sts.
17. Rnd 38: Work K3, K2tog six times. You now have 24 sts.
18. Rnd 39: Work K2, K2tog six times. You now have 18 sts.
19. Rnd 40: Work K1, K2tog six times. You now have 12 sts.
20. Rnd 41: K2tog six times.
21. Cut the yarn, pull it through the remaining 6 sts, and secure.

Make a 1.25-inch or 3 cm pom-pom using mostly G with several strands of T and C. Attach it firmly to the crown.

Leaf-Embroidered Crossbody Satchel

The satchel has a rectangular body, rounded flap, narrow gusset, long I-cord strap, and two embroidered leaves.

Satchel Front

1. CO 22 sts in T.
2. Rows 1-4: Work K1, P1 seed stitch.
3. Rows 5-28: On RS rows, K2, K18, K2. On WS rows, K2, P18, K2.
4. Rows 29-32: Work seed stitch.
5. BO all stitches.

Satchel Back and Flap

1. CO 22 sts in T.
2. Work Rows 1-28 exactly as for the front.
3. Row 29, RS: K22.
4. Row 30: P22.
5. Row 31: K1, SSK, K16, K2tog, K1. You now have 20 sts.
6. Row 32: P20.
7. Row 33: K1, SSK, K14, K2tog, K1. You now have 18 sts.
8. Row 34: P18.
9. Row 35: K1, SSK, K12, K2tog, K1. You now have 16 sts.
10. Row 36: P16.
11. Row 37: K1, SSK, K10, K2tog, K1. You now have 14 sts.
12. Row 38: P14.
13. Row 39: K1, SSK, K8, K2tog, K1. You now have 12 sts.
14. Row 40: K12.
15. BO all stitches.

Gusset and Strap

• CO 6 sts and work 76 rows in seed stitch for the gusset.
• BO and sew the gusset around the side and lower edges of the front.
• Attach the back to the opposite gusset edge, leaving the top open.
• Work a four-stitch I-cord for 130 rows to form the strap.
• Sew one strap end to each upper side of the bag.

Leaf Embroidery

Using brown yarn, embroider one central stem on the flap and one on the lower front. Each stem should be approximately 1 inch or 2.5 cm long.

Add four diagonal stitches on each side of every stem. The lower stitches should be longer than the upper stitches, creating pointed leaf shapes. Add a single straight stitch from the flap point toward the leaf to suggest a closure.

Place the strap over the sheep’s left shoulder so the bag rests near the right hip. Tack the strap lightly to the cardigan shoulder if the satchel will be displayed permanently.

Knitted Sandals

Make two sandals in T with peach straps. The sandals are sewn over the finished ivory feet.

Sandal Sole

1. CO 6 sts in T.
2. Row 1: K6.
3. Row 2: K1, M1L, K4, M1R, K1. You now have 8 sts.
4. Row 3: K8.
5. Row 4: K1, M1L, K6, M1R, K1. You now have 10 sts.
6. Rows 5-24: K10.
7. Row 25: K1, SSK, K4, K2tog, K1. You now have 8 sts.
8. Row 26: K8.
9. Row 27: K1, SSK, K2, K2tog, K1. You now have 6 sts.
10. Row 28: BO all stitches.

Pick up and knit 44 sts evenly around the sole. Knit two rounds, then BO. This creates the shallow raised edge visible around the sandal.

Sandal Straps

• Work one three-stitch peach I-cord for 18 rows for the front toe strap.
• Work one three-stitch peach I-cord for 22 rows for the upper instep strap.
• Make two of each strap.

Sew the toe strap across the foot approximately 0.75 inch or 2 cm behind the toe. Sew the longer strap diagonally across the upper foot and secure it at both sole edges.

Using T, add one vertical straight stitch down the center of each visible toe area. Embroider a small yellow five-ray flower near the outer end of the upper strap.

Blue Watering Can

The watering can includes a rounded body, a narrow top opening, an angled spout, and a curved handle. Use dusty blue yarn.

Watering Can Body

1. CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: Kfb in every stitch. You now have 16 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Work K1, Kfb eight times. You now have 24 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Work K2, Kfb eight times. You now have 32 sts.
5. Rnd 4: Work K3, Kfb eight times. You now have 40 sts.
6. Rnd 5: P40 to form a base ridge.
7. Rnds 6-21: K40.
8. Rnd 22: Work K3, K2tog eight times. You now have 32 sts.
9. Rnd 23: K32.
10. Rnd 24: Work K2, K2tog eight times. You now have 24 sts.
11. Rnd 25: BO all stitches.

Insert a small circular piece of plastic canvas at the base if a firmer shape is desired. Stuff the body lightly, keeping the upper opening visible.

Top Filling Neck

1. CO 16 sts and join in the round.
2. Work 5 rounds in stockinette.
3. BO loosely.
4. Sew the lower edge around the top opening of the body.

Spout

1. CO 6 sts and work a six-stitch I-cord for 25 rows.
2. Stop working in I-cord and turn the piece.
3. Next RS row: K1, M1L, K4, M1R, K1. You now have 8 sts.
4. Next WS row: P8.
5. Next RS row: K1, M1L, K6, M1R, K1. You now have 10 sts.
6. Next WS row: P10.
7. Next RS row: K1, M1L, K8, M1R, K1. You now have 12 sts.
8. BO all stitches.

Insert a short rolled strip of plastic canvas or tightly twisted yarn inside the narrow spout. Curve it upward and sew its base to the lower side of the watering-can body.

Handle

Work a five-stitch I-cord for 42 rows. Curve it into a high arch and sew one end near the upper back of the can and the other end near the lower back. Reinforce both attachment points.

Small Tan Garden Basket

The small basket is worked from an oval base upward. Use T and maintain firm tension.

Basket Base

1. Using a Turkish cast-on, CO 8 sts on each side for 16 sts total.
2. Rnd 1: K16.
3. Rnd 2: Work K1, M1R, K6, M1L, K1 on each half. You now have 20 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Work K1, M1R, K8, M1L, K1 on each half. You now have 24 sts.
5. Rnd 4: Work K1, M1R, K10, M1L, K1 on each half. You now have 28 sts.
6. Rnd 5: Work K1, M1R, K12, M1L, K1 on each half. You now have 32 sts.

Basket Sides

1. Rnd 6: P32 to create the lower ridge.
2. Rnds 7-20: Work K1, P1 seed stitch around, alternating the stitch order on each round.
3. Rnd 21: K32.
4. BO all stitches loosely.

Basket Handles

• Make two four-stitch I-cords, each 30 rows long.
• Attach one handle to each narrow end of the oval basket.
• Sew the attachment points across four basket stitches for strength.

Place a small folded piece of plastic canvas inside the basket if it needs to remain upright. Do not stuff the basket; the opening should remain visible.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Dress the body in the trousers and cream shirt before attaching the head.
2. Place the head opening over the 32-st body neck edge.
3. Align the face directly above the center front crotch and sandals.
4. Sew the head to the body twice around using the long body tail.
5. Attach the arms below the cardigan sleeve openings.
6. Put on the cardigan and smooth the front bands.
7. Position the glasses evenly around the eye patches.
8. Add one tiny white highlight stitch beside each safety-eye reflection if desired.
9. Place the satchel strap over the left shoulder and the bag at the right hip.
10. Arrange the watering can, basket, and striped beanie beside the finished sheep.

Check that both eyes sit at the same height, the muzzle is centered, and the nose points straight forward. Gently rotate the feet so the toes remain parallel and the sheep can sit or lie evenly for display.

Care Notes

Hand-wash the finished sheep only when necessary. Use cool water and a small amount of mild detergent. Do not twist the toy, rub the Fair Isle fabric, or pull the knitted loops.

Safety eyes and small accessories may not be suitable for children under three years old. For a young child’s toy, embroider the eyes and nose and permanently secure or omit removable accessories.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both legs are the same length and both trouser cuffs are folded evenly.
• The head is centered and securely sewn to the body.
• The eye patches, glasses, muzzle, and nose are symmetrical.
• The curls cover the crown without hiding the eyes.
• The ears angle downward at matching positions.
• The cardigan floats are loose and the front bands lie flat.
• The satchel strap crosses from the left shoulder to the right hip.
• The embroidered leaves and small flowers are firmly attached.
• The watering-can spout and handle hold their curved shapes.
• All yarn ends are woven inside the knitted pieces.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Remove the satchel, beanie, watering can, and basket before cleaning. Place each small accessory in a labeled mesh bag so it is not lost or stretched.

Submerge the sheep in cool water for no longer than ten minutes. Press the water gently through the knitted fabric without scrubbing. Rinse twice in clean cool water.

Roll the sheep in a dry towel and press lightly to remove excess water. Reshape the head, muzzle, ears, arms, trousers, and sandals while damp.

Air-dry the sheep flat on a clean towel away from direct sunlight, heaters, and tumble dryers. Turn it several times so all sides dry completely.

After drying, separate compressed fleece loops with a blunt tapestry needle. Store the finished sheep in a dry, ventilated place and support the glasses, flowers, and watering-can spout to prevent bending.