Crochet Tutorial: Garden Zebra in Sage Utility Vest with Seed Satchel and Straw Hat – Free Crochet Pattern.

This garden zebra crochet pattern creates a seated amigurumi zebra with bold black-and-white stripes, a rounded cream muzzle, tall ears, a sage green utility vest, brown garden shorts, a crossbody seed satchel, leaf-trim sandals, a straw hat, a daisy hair accent, a picnic basket, and a small blue watering can.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US crochet terms. The finished zebra is designed as a detailed garden-themed display doll with a soft seated body and layered removable-looking accessories. The vest, shorts, satchel, hat, sandals, daisy, basket, and watering can are all made separately, then sewn firmly into place.

The zebra in the image has a large rounded head, a long oval muzzle, tall upright ears, slim striped arms, seated striped legs, a soft brown shorts section, and a fitted sage vest with small pockets. The body is slightly pear-shaped so the doll sits naturally on a shelf or bench.

Finished Size

• Finished zebra height: about 13 inches from seated bottom to ear tips.
• Seated body height: about 9 inches without ears.
• Head width: about 4.5 inches.
• Recommended hook: 2.75 mm for the doll and 2.5 mm for accessories.
• Gauge: 6 sc x 6 rounds = about 1 inch in tight amigurumi crochet.

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in cream white, black, warm beige, sage green, medium brown, light brown, straw tan, sky blue, yellow, white, carrot orange, leafy green, and a small amount of red.
• 2.75 mm crochet hook for the zebra body.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for the vest, bag, sandals, daisy, hat, basket, and watering can.
• 8 mm safety eyes or black embroidery thread for embroidered eyes.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Four tiny wooden buttons or crocheted button circles for the vest.
• Small amount of felt or embroidery thread for the satchel label.
• Sewing pins for positioning pieces before final assembly.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible decrease over 2 stitches
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• R: round or row
• st: stitch
• FO: fasten off

Important Construction Notes

Work the zebra body in tight continuous rounds unless a section says to join. Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round. Stuff gradually, especially the head, muzzle, body, and legs, so the finished shape is smooth and firm without visible gaps.

The zebra stripes are made by changing between cream white and black yarn. Carry the unused color inside the work only for short stripe sections. For cleaner stripes on the head, cut the yarn after every color block and weave the tails inside before stuffing.

For a rounded toy like the image, do not overstuff the arms or lower legs. The head and muzzle should be firm, the body should be firm but squeezable, and the shorts area should be slightly wider than the chest so the zebra has a relaxed seated garden-doll pose.

Color Plan for Zebra Stripes

• Head: alternate 2 rounds cream white and 2 rounds black from R8 to R27.
• Arms: alternate 3 rounds cream white and 2 rounds black after the black hoof.
• Legs: black hoof, cream ankle, black stripe, cream stripe, then continue into brown shorts.
• Body: upper chest is mostly hidden by vest, but use cream white with two black side stripe bands.
• Face: cream muzzle is plain with no stripes.

Zebra Head

Use cream white and black yarn. The head is a large rounded oval with the nose pointing forward. The muzzle will be sewn on later, so keep the front of the head smooth. Place the color changes at the back of the head where the ears and vest collar will help hide joins.

Head Rounds

1. With cream white, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. Change to black. R8: sc around. 42 sts.
9. R9: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
10. Change to cream white. R10: sc around. 48 sts.
11. R11: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
12. Change to black. R12: sc around. 54 sts.
13. R13: sc 8, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
14. Change to cream white. R14-R15: sc around for 2 rounds. 60 sts.
15. Change to black. R16-R17: sc around for 2 rounds. 60 sts.
16. Change to cream white. R18-R19: sc around for 2 rounds. 60 sts.
17. Change to black. R20-R21: sc around for 2 rounds. 60 sts.
18. Change to cream white. R22: sc 8, dec, repeat around. 54 sts.
19. R23: sc around. 54 sts.
20. Change to black. R24: sc 7, dec, repeat around. 48 sts.
21. R25: sc around. 48 sts.
22. Change to cream white. R26: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
23. R27: sc around. 42 sts.
24. Change to black. R28: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
25. R29: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.

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Insert the safety eyes between R18 and R19, about 8 stitches apart, centered above the muzzle area. In the image, the eyes sit high and close together, giving the zebra a gentle surprised garden-helper expression.

1. R30: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
2. Begin stuffing firmly. R31: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
3. R32: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
4. R33: dec around. 6 sts.
5. FO, close the hole, and weave in the end.

Large Rounded Muzzle

The muzzle is the most important facial feature. It should be long, oval, and protruding, like the image. Use warm cream yarn, not bright white, so it stands out softly against the black-and-white striped head.

1. With warm cream, ch 7.
2. R1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side of chain, sc 4, inc in last st. 14 sts.
3. R2: inc, sc 4, inc in next 3 sts, sc 4, inc in next 2 sts. 20 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 4, sc 1, inc, repeat 3 times across curve, sc 4, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 28 sts.
5. R4: sc 2, inc, sc 6, sc 2, inc, repeat 3 times across curve, sc 6, sc 2, inc, sc 2, inc. 36 sts.
6. R5-R9: sc around for 5 rounds. 36 sts.
7. R10: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
8. R11: sc around. 30 sts.
9. R12: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
10. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Stuff the muzzle firmly. Pin it to the center front of the head from R18 to R27. The top of the muzzle should sit just below the eyes, and the lower curve should cover the lower front of the face. Sew around slowly with small stitches.

Nostril and Smile Details

• With black embroidery thread, make two small nostril stitches on the front lower half of the muzzle, about 5 stitches apart.
• Add a tiny vertical stitch from the center lower nose area down 2 rounds.
• Add a soft curved smile using one shallow backstitch on each side.
• Do not make the mouth too large; the image has a gentle, quiet expression.

Tall Zebra Ears

The ears are long, upright, and slightly rounded at the tips. Make two outer ears in cream white and two inner ear panels in pale beige. The finished ears should lean outward slightly, about 20 degrees from vertical.

Outer Ear, Make 2

1. With cream white, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc around. 6 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 9 sts.
5. R5: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts.
6. R6: sc around. 12 sts.
7. R7: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 15 sts.
8. R8-R13: sc around for 6 rounds. 15 sts.
9. R14: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
10. R15-R16: sc around for 2 rounds. 12 sts.
11. Flatten the base and sc through both layers with 6 sc.
12. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Inner Ear Panel, Make 2

1. With pale beige, ch 9.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 8, ch 1, turn. 8 sts.
3. Row 2: dec, sc 4, dec, ch 1, turn. 6 sts.
4. Row 3: sc across, ch 1, turn. 6 sts.
5. Row 4: dec, sc 2, dec, ch 1, turn. 4 sts.
6. Row 5: sc across, ch 1, turn. 4 sts.
7. Row 6: dec twice. 2 sts.
8. Row 7: dec. 1 st.
9. Work sc evenly around the panel edge, FO, and leave a sewing tail.

Sew one inner panel to the center of each outer ear. Place the ears on top of the head between R5 and R9, with about 8 visible stitches between the inner bases. Sew securely around the flattened base so the ears stand up.

Body

The body is pear-shaped and seated. The lower body is wider to support the brown shorts and sitting pose. The upper body is hidden by the sage vest, but the sides and neck area should still show zebra stripes.

1. With cream white, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. R9-R13: sc around for 5 rounds. 48 sts.
10. Change to black. R14-R15: sc around for 2 rounds. 48 sts.
11. Change to cream white. R16-R18: sc around for 3 rounds. 48 sts.
12. Change to black. R19-R20: sc around for 2 rounds. 48 sts.
13. Change to cream white. R21: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
14. R22-R23: sc around for 2 rounds. 42 sts.
15. R24: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
16. R25-R26: sc around for 2 rounds. 36 sts.
17. R27: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
18. R28: sc around. 30 sts.
19. R29: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
20. Stuff the body firmly, especially the lower seated area.
21. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body.

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Sew the head to the body with the muzzle facing slightly upward. The zebra in the image sits proudly, so angle the head forward only a little. Sew around the neck twice for strength before hiding the yarn tail.

Striped Arms, Make 2

The arms are slim and hang down beside the vest. The hooves are black, and the upper arms have alternating zebra stripes. Do not overstuff the arms; they should bend softly at the sides.

1. With black, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R5: sc around for 3 rounds. 12 sts.
4. Change to cream white. R6-R8: sc around for 3 rounds. 12 sts.
5. Change to black. R9-R10: sc around for 2 rounds. 12 sts.
6. Change to cream white. R11-R13: sc around for 3 rounds. 12 sts.
7. Change to black. R14-R15: sc around for 2 rounds. 12 sts.
8. Change to cream white. R16-R18: sc around for 3 rounds. 12 sts.
9. Lightly stuff the lower half only.
10. Flatten the top and sc through both layers with 6 sc.
11. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Sew the arms to the upper body between R24 and R26. Place them slightly forward so they frame the vest pockets. The black hoof tips should hang near the bottom edge of the vest.

Seated Legs, Make 2

The legs are longer than the arms and bend forward in a seated position. The bottom portion shows black-and-white zebra stripes, while the upper thigh is partly covered by brown shorts.

1. With black, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4-R6: sc around for 3 rounds. 18 sts.
5. Change to cream white. R7-R9: sc around for 3 rounds. 18 sts.
6. Change to black. R10-R11: sc around for 2 rounds. 18 sts.
7. Change to cream white. R12-R14: sc around for 3 rounds. 18 sts.
8. Change to black. R15-R16: sc around for 2 rounds. 18 sts.
9. Change to cream white. R17-R18: sc around for 2 rounds. 18 sts.
10. Change to medium brown. R19: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
11. R20-R24: sc around for 5 rounds. 18 sts.
12. Stuff the lower leg firmly and the upper thigh lightly.
13. Flatten the top and sc through both layers with 9 sc.
14. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Sew the legs to the lower front of the body between R8 and R12. Angle them downward and forward so the zebra can sit on a flat surface. Keep the feet about 2 inches apart, matching the relaxed bench-sitting pose in the image.

Small Tail

1. With cream white, ch 9.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. 8 sts.
3. Cut 4 short strands of black yarn, about 3 inches long.
4. Fold strands through the tail tip and knot securely to form a small black tassel.
5. Sew the tail to the back lower body at R12.

Brown Garden Shorts

The shorts are crocheted as a fitted cover over the seated lower body and upper thighs. They should look slightly loose and soft, like the image, with short legs that stop above the striped knees.

Shorts Waist and Seat

1. With medium brown and 2.5 mm hook, ch 49.
2. Join with sl st to form a ring, making sure it is not twisted.
3. R1: ch 1, sc around, sl st to join. 48 sts.
4. R2-R5: ch 1, sc around, sl st to join. 48 sts.
5. R6: sc 7, inc, repeat around, sl st to join. 54 sts.
6. R7-R10: ch 1, sc around, sl st to join. 54 sts.

Divide for Short Legs

1. Flatten the shorts with the seam at the back.
2. Mark 24 sts for the left leg and 24 sts for the right leg, leaving 6 sts at the center front and 6 sts at the center back as the crotch bridge.
3. Join yarn at left leg opening.
4. Left leg R1-R5: sc around 24 sts, join each round. FO.
5. Right leg R1-R5: repeat around remaining 24 sts. FO.
6. Sew the small crotch opening closed with brown yarn.

Slide the shorts over the body before sewing the vest if needed, or sew them directly onto the doll after the legs are attached. Tack the waistband at the back, sides, and front so the shorts do not twist.

Sage Utility Vest

The vest is the main clothing piece. It is sage green, sleeveless, and fitted over the chest. It has a front opening, small round buttons, a pocket with a trowel, and a pocket with a carrot design.

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Vest Back Panel

1. With sage green, ch 25.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 24, ch 1, turn. 24 sts.
3. Rows 2-8: sc across, ch 1, turn. 24 sts.
4. Row 9: dec, sc 20, dec, ch 1, turn. 22 sts.
5. Row 10: sc across, ch 1, turn. 22 sts.
6. Row 11: dec, sc 18, dec, ch 1, turn. 20 sts.
7. Rows 12-16: sc across, ch 1, turn. 20 sts.
8. FO and weave in the end.

Left Front Panel

1. With sage green, ch 13.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 12, ch 1, turn. 12 sts.
3. Rows 2-8: sc across, ch 1, turn. 12 sts.
4. Row 9: dec at armhole edge, sc 10, ch 1, turn. 11 sts.
5. Row 10: sc across, ch 1, turn. 11 sts.
6. Row 11: dec at armhole edge, sc 9, ch 1, turn. 10 sts.
7. Rows 12-16: sc across, ch 1, turn. 10 sts.
8. FO.

Right Front Panel

1. Repeat the left front panel, but place the armhole decreases on the opposite edge.
2. Do not fasten off after Row 16 if you want to crochet edging continuously.

Vest Joining and Edging

1. Sew the shoulder seams: attach 5 sts of each front panel to the top corners of the back panel.
2. Sew side seams from lower edge upward for 6 rows, leaving the upper opening for arms.
3. Join sage green at the lower right front edge.
4. Sc evenly around the entire vest opening, neckline, lower edge, and front panels.
5. Work 2 sc in each lower front corner to keep the shape flat.
6. FO and weave in ends.

Vest Buttons

• Sew 4 tiny wooden buttons down the left front opening.
• Place the first button just below the neckline.
• Place the remaining buttons about 3 rows apart.
• If using yarn buttons, make each button with 6 sc in MR, sl st to join, FO, and sew flat.

Utility Vest Pockets

Left Pocket with Trowel

1. With sage green, ch 8.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch, sc 7, ch 1, turn. 7 sts.
3. Rows 2-5: sc across, ch 1, turn. 7 sts.
4. Row 6: sc around the pocket edges, placing 2 sc in each lower corner.
5. FO, leaving a sewing tail.
6. Sew the pocket to the zebra’s left vest front, leaving the top edge slightly open.

Tiny Trowel

1. With gray, ch 5.
2. Starting in 2nd ch, sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, 3 hdc in last ch.
3. Work on opposite side, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1.
4. FO gray.
5. With red, ch 4 and sew it to the base as the handle.
6. Tuck the trowel into the pocket and sew with one hidden stitch.

Right Pocket with Carrot Patch

1. With sage green, ch 8.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch, sc 7, ch 1, turn. 7 sts.
3. Rows 2-5: sc across, ch 1, turn. 7 sts.
4. Sc around the pocket edge and FO with a long sewing tail.
5. Sew to the zebra’s right vest front.

Carrot Applique

1. With carrot orange, ch 4.
2. Row 1: sc 3, ch 1, turn. 3 sts.
3. Row 2: dec, sc 1, ch 1, turn. 2 sts.
4. Row 3: dec. 1 st.
5. FO and sew to the right pocket.
6. With green, make 3 small leaf stitches at the top of the carrot.

Brown Crossbody Seed Satchel

The satchel sits across the zebra’s chest and rests against the lower right side. It has a textured brown body, a flap, a long strap, and a small pale label that reads “Z-Seeds.”

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Satchel Body

1. With medium brown, ch 13.
2. R1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 11, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 10, inc in last st. 26 sts.
3. R2: inc, sc 10, inc in next 3 sts, sc 10, inc in next 2 sts. 32 sts.
4. R3: BLO sc around. 32 sts.
5. R4-R9: sc around for 6 rounds. 32 sts.
6. Flatten slightly and FO, leaving a tail for sewing if you want the bag fixed to the doll.

Satchel Flap

1. With medium brown, ch 13.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch, sc 12, ch 1, turn. 12 sts.
3. Rows 2-5: sc across, ch 1, turn. 12 sts.
4. Row 6: dec, sc 8, dec, ch 1, turn. 10 sts.
5. Row 7: sc across. 10 sts.
6. Sc around the flap edge. FO with a long tail.
7. Sew the flap to the back top edge of the satchel so it folds to the front.

Satchel Strap

1. With medium brown, ch 76.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch, sc across. 75 sts.
3. FO, leaving tails at both ends.
4. Sew one strap end to the upper left side of the bag and the other to the upper right side.
5. Place the strap from the zebra’s left shoulder down to the right hip, exactly like a crossbody garden seed bag.

Z-Seeds Label

1. With light beige, ch 8.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch, sc 7, ch 1, turn. 7 sts.
3. Row 2: sc 7. FO.
4. Sew the label to the front flap.
5. With green embroidery thread, stitch the text “Z-Seeds” using tiny straight stitches.

Straw Garden Hat

The straw hat in the image rests beside the zebra, so it can be made as a separate prop. It has a flat brim, rounded crown, and sage green band. Use straw tan yarn and tight stitches to create the woven garden look.

Hat Crown

1. With straw tan, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: BLO sc around. 36 sts.
8. R8-R13: sc around for 6 rounds. 36 sts.
9. FO only if changing position; otherwise continue to brim.

Hat Brim

1. R14: FLO sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
2. R15: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
3. R16: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
4. R17: sc 8, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
5. R18: sc around. 60 sts.
6. R19: reverse sc around for a firm brim edge, or sl st around if you prefer a softer edge.
7. FO and weave in ends.

Sage Hat Band

1. With sage green, ch 39.
2. Starting in 2nd ch, sc 38.
3. Wrap around the base of the crown and sew the ends together.
4. Tack the band to the hat in four places so it stays flat.

Daisy Hair Accent

The white daisy is placed near one ear on the striped head. It has a yellow center, white petals, and one small green leaf. Sew it near the right ear from the viewer’s perspective.

Daisy Center

1. With yellow, 6 sc in MR.
2. Sl st to join and FO.

Daisy Petals

1. Join white yarn to any stitch of the yellow center.
2. Ch 4, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, sl st into next yellow stitch.
3. Repeat around to make 6 petals.
4. FO and weave the end to the back.

Small Leaf

1. With green, ch 5.
2. Starting in 2nd ch, sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, 3 hdc in last ch.
3. Work on opposite side, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1.
4. FO and sew behind the daisy.

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Garden Sandals, Make 2

The sandals are beige with a green trim and a small leaf decoration on the top. They fit over the black hooves. Sew them lightly onto the feet so they look worn by the zebra, not placed underneath.

Sandal Sole

1. With straw tan, ch 8.
2. R1: starting in 2nd ch, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch, work opposite side, sc 5, inc in last st. 16 sts.
3. R2: inc, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in next 2 sts. 22 sts.
4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 6, sc 1, inc, repeat 3 times around toe curve, sc 6, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 30 sts.
5. FO and make a second matching sole.

Sandal Upper

1. Join straw tan at one side of the sole near the toe.
2. Ch 9, stretch across the hoof top, and sl st to the opposite side of the sole.
3. Turn, sc 9 across the chain strap.
4. FO and weave in ends.
5. With sage green, sl st around the sole edge for trim.

Leaf Detail

1. With sage green, ch 5.
2. Starting in 2nd ch, sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, 3 hdc in last ch.
3. Work on opposite side, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1.
4. Sew one leaf onto each sandal strap.

Picnic Basket Prop

The basket is a small tan garden basket with curved handles and a folded cloth inside. It sits beside the zebra in the image and adds a market-garden feeling to the full crochet display.

Basket Base and Sides

1. With light brown, ch 12.
2. R1: starting in 2nd ch, sc 10, 3 sc in last ch, work opposite side, sc 9, inc in last st. 24 sts.
3. R2: inc, sc 9, inc in next 3 sts, sc 9, inc in next 2 sts. 30 sts.
4. R3: BLO sc around. 30 sts.
5. R4-R9: sc around for 6 rounds. 30 sts.
6. R10: sl st around for a firm top edge.
7. FO and weave in ends.

Basket Handles

1. Join light brown to one side of the basket.
2. Ch 18 and sl st to the opposite side to form an arch.
3. Turn and sc 18 back across the chain.
4. FO and repeat for the second handle.

Folded Cloth

1. With white, ch 13.
2. Rows 1-6: sc 12, ch 1, turn.
3. FO and weave in ends.
4. With red yarn, embroider two diagonal lines to make a simple check cloth.
5. Fold the cloth and place it inside the basket.

Small Garden Vegetables

• Carrot: with orange, ch 5, sc 4, FO; add 3 green strands at the top.
• Green bean: with green, ch 8, sl st across, FO.
• White roll or cloth bundle: with cream, 6 sc in MR, inc around to 12 sts, sc 1 round, dec to close.

Blue Watering Can Prop

The watering can is small, round, and sky blue. It sits near the zebra’s feet. Make the body firm enough to hold its shape, but keep the spout and handle flexible.

Watering Can Body

1. With sky blue, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
6. R6-R10: sc around for 5 rounds. 24 sts.
7. R11: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
8. Stuff lightly.
9. R12: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
10. R13: dec around. 6 sts.
11. FO and close the opening.

Watering Can Spout

1. With sky blue, R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2-R8: sc around for 7 rounds. 5 sts.
3. Do not stuff.
4. FO, leaving a sewing tail.
5. Sew to one side of the can at a slight upward angle.

Watering Can Handle

1. With sky blue, ch 18.
2. Starting in 2nd ch, sc 17.
3. FO, leaving long tails.
4. Sew one end near the upper back of the can and the other near the lower back to form a curved handle.

Top Opening

1. With sky blue, 6 sc in MR, sl st to join.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. FO and sew flat to the top of the watering can.

Optional Texture for a Handmade Look

To match the visible handmade texture in the image, keep all stitches tight and even. For the vest and bag, work some rows through the back loop only to create subtle ridges. For the straw hat and basket, use a slightly smaller hook so the props feel sturdy.

• Use 2.5 mm hook for firm accessories.
• Use invisible decreases on all rounded body parts.
• Use a yarn needle to smooth color-change jogs on the zebra stripes.
• Use pins before sewing the vest, satchel, and sandals in place.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew the head to the body with the muzzle centered and facing forward.
2. Sew the ears on top of the head, angled slightly outward.
3. Sew the muzzle securely to the lower front of the face.
4. Add nostrils and a small soft smile with black embroidery thread.
5. Sew the arms to the sides of the upper body.
6. Sew the legs to the lower front body in a seated position.
7. Place the brown shorts over the lower body and tack them at the waist.
8. Fit the sage vest around the chest and sew it closed at the side seams if needed.
9. Sew vest buttons down the front opening.
10. Add both vest pockets, the trowel, and the carrot patch.
11. Place the satchel strap across the body from left shoulder to right hip.
12. Sew the seed bag lightly to the lower right side so it stays in place.
13. Sew the daisy near the zebra’s ear with the leaf tucked behind it.
14. Attach sandals to the feet with hidden stitches through the soles.
15. Place the straw hat, basket, and watering can around the zebra for the full garden display.

Check the face from the front before securing the final knots. The eyes should sit above the muzzle, the ears should be balanced, and the daisy should be visible near the ear. A small adjustment at this stage can make the finished zebra look much closer to the reference image.

Care Notes

• Spot clean gently with cold water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if using safety eyes, buttons, or embroidered label details.
• Press out extra moisture with a clean towel.
• Reshape the ears, hat brim, vest, and satchel while damp.
• Air dry flat away from direct sunlight.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The zebra has bold black-and-white stripes on the head, arms, and legs.
• The muzzle is large, cream-colored, oval, and centered below the eyes.
• The ears are tall, cream, and upright with pale inner panels.
• The sage vest has front buttons, two pockets, a trowel, and a carrot detail.
• The brown shorts sit around the lower body and upper legs.
• The crossbody satchel has a visible “Z-Seeds” label.
• The sandals are beige with sage trim and small green leaves.
• The daisy is placed near one ear.
• The straw hat, basket, and blue watering can are included as garden props.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the finished zebra in a dry place where the ears and hat brim will not be crushed. If the doll is displayed on a shelf, gently dust it with a soft brush every few weeks. Avoid pulling on the satchel strap, pocket tools, daisy petals, or watering can handle.

For long-term storage, wrap the zebra loosely in acid-free tissue or a clean cotton cloth. Keep the accessories beside the doll rather than stacked on top. This helps preserve the rounded muzzle, upright ears, textured vest, and small garden details.

If the shape softens over time, gently massage the stuffing back into place with your hands. The muzzle, body base, and seated legs can be reshaped without opening the stitches. Let the doll rest flat after reshaping so the parts settle naturally.