This garden goose girl crochet pattern creates a tall white goose doll with a long curved neck, big blue embroidered eyes, a bright orange open beak, and sweet cheek details. She wears a cream garden beanie with muted red stripes and a tiny orange pumpkin, patchwork green overalls with carrot embroidery, beige sandals over orange webbed feet, a crossbody acorn satchel, seed packets, a watering can, and a small garden trowel.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Details
- Skill level: Intermediate amigurumi with embroidery and small accessories.
- Finished size: About 14 inches tall when made with sport weight cotton yarn and a 2.25 mm hook.
- Main technique: Work in continuous spiral rounds unless a row is clearly stated.
- Stitch style: Use tight, even stitches so stuffing does not show through.
- Best stuffing style: Firm stuffing in the head, neck, body, and feet; lighter stuffing in arms, beak, and accessories.
Materials
- Sport weight cotton yarn in white, orange, cream, beige, sage green, olive green, medium green, tan, brown, dark brown, muted red, sky blue, dark blue, black, carrot orange, light teal, yellow, pink, purple, and leaf green.
- 2.25 mm crochet hook for the doll and clothing.
- 2.00 mm crochet hook for tiny accessories, eye details, carrot embroidery, seed packets, and flowers.
- Fiberfill stuffing.
- Yarn needle.
- Stitch markers.
- Four small orange buttons, about 8 mm wide, or crocheted button circles.
- Black embroidery thread for lashes and eye outlines.
- White embroidery thread for eye highlights.
- Cardboard or plastic canvas for stiffening the seed packets, watering can base, and satchel if desired.
- Optional pipe cleaner for the watering can spout and goose neck. Use only for display dolls, not toys for small children.
Abbreviations in US Terms
- MR: magic ring
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- dec: invisible single crochet decrease
- BLO: back loop only
- FLO: front loop only
- st: stitch
- sts: stitches
- R: round or row
- FO: fasten off
Gauge and Construction Notes
For a clean amigurumi look, keep the tension firm. With the suggested yarn and hook, 8 sc should measure about 1 inch across. The exact gauge is less important than keeping every part consistent, especially the neck and the overalls.
The doll is built from the feet upward where possible. The legs, orange webbed feet, shorts, body, long neck, and head are separate shaped pieces joined with careful sewing. The overalls are crocheted onto the lower body and finished with patch squares, straps, bib, pockets, and buttons.
The face is the most important part of this goose. Place the blue eyes high and close to the beak, then embroider black upper lashes, lower lashes, white highlights, and a thin black eye outline. The beak is made in two lips so the mouth appears open like the image.
White Goose Head
Use white yarn and the 2.25 mm hook. Stuff firmly as you work, shaping the head into a rounded oval with a soft forehead and slightly narrower lower face.
- R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
- R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
- R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
- R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
- R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.
- R7: sc 5, inc; repeat 6 times. 42 sts.
- R8: sc 6, inc; repeat 6 times. 48 sts.
- R9: sc 7, inc; repeat 6 times. 54 sts.
- R10: sc 8, inc; repeat 6 times. 60 sts.
- R11-R19: sc around. 60 sts for 9 rounds.
- R20: sc 8, dec; repeat 6 times. 54 sts.
- R21: sc 7, dec; repeat 6 times. 48 sts.
- R22: sc 6, dec; repeat 6 times. 42 sts.
- R23: sc 5, dec; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.
- R24: sc 4, dec; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
- R25: sc 3, dec; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
- R26: sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
- R27: sc around. 18 sts. FO, leaving a 20 inch tail for sewing to the neck.
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Head Shaping
Before closing the final opening completely, add extra stuffing at the forehead and upper cheeks. The head should look round and plush, not flat. Use a yarn needle to gently pull the lower face inward where the beak will sit, creating a shallow horizontal dip between R18 and R22.
Long White Goose Neck
The neck is tall, slim, and slightly wider at the base. Use white yarn. Stuff gradually and firmly. Do not overstuff the top edge because it must sit smoothly under the head.
- R1: 8 sc in MR. 8 sts.
- R2: inc in each st around. 16 sts.
- R3: sc 3, inc; repeat 4 times. 20 sts.
- R4-R8: sc around. 20 sts for 5 rounds.
- R9: sc 4, inc; repeat 4 times. 24 sts.
- R10-R20: sc around. 24 sts for 11 rounds.
- R21: sc 5, inc; repeat 4 times. 28 sts.
- R22-R30: sc around. 28 sts for 9 rounds.
- R31: sc 6, inc; repeat 4 times. 32 sts.
- R32-R35: sc around. 32 sts for 4 rounds.
- R36: sc 7, inc; repeat 4 times. 36 sts.
- R37-R40: sc around. 36 sts for 4 rounds. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing to the body.
Shape the neck so it leans very slightly forward. When sewn under the head, the head should face straight ahead and the beak should project forward from the center of the face.
Body Under the Overalls
Use white yarn for the upper chest because the image shows white shoulders and sides above the overalls. The body should be narrow at the chest and fuller at the hips to support the patchwork short overalls.
- R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: inc around. 12 sts.
- R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
- R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
- R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
- R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.
- R7: sc 5, inc; repeat 6 times. 42 sts.
- R8: sc 6, inc; repeat 6 times. 48 sts.
- R9-R13: sc around. 48 sts.
- R14: sc 10, dec; repeat 4 times. 44 sts.
- R15-R18: sc around. 44 sts.
- R19: sc 9, dec; repeat 4 times. 40 sts.
- R20-R23: sc around. 40 sts.
- R24: sc 8, dec; repeat 4 times. 36 sts.
- R25-R28: sc around. 36 sts.
- R29: sc 4, dec; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
- R30: sc around. 30 sts. FO and leave a long tail.
Stuff the body firmly at the lower half and medium firm at the top. The neck will be sewn centered on R29-R30 of the body. Pin the neck first, making sure it stands tall and straight from the center of the shoulders.
Orange Webbed Feet
Make 2. Use orange yarn. The goose has visible three-toe webbed feet inside beige sandals. Each foot is worked as a flattened oval with three rounded front lobes.
Foot Base
- Ch 8.
- R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch, working on the other side of the chain sc 5, inc in last st. 16 sts.
- R2: inc, sc 5, inc 3 times, sc 5, inc 2 times. 22 sts.
- R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 28 sts.
- R4: BLO sc around. 28 sts.
- R5-R6: sc around. 28 sts.
- R7: sc 5, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 5. 24 sts.
- R8: sc 4, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 4. 20 sts.
- R9: sc around. 20 sts. Stuff lightly.
Three Front Toes
Flatten the front of the foot. The toe edge is worked across the front 12 stitches only.
- Attach orange yarn at the front right side.
- Toe 1: ch 2, 4 hdc in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st.
- Toe 2: sl st in next st, ch 2, 5 hdc in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st.
- Toe 3: sl st in next st, ch 2, 4 hdc in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st.
- FO and weave in ends.
Legs
Make 2 with orange yarn for the visible ankles. The legs are slim and attach directly above the feet, with the overalls ending above the ankles.
- R1: 10 sc in MR. 10 sts.
- R2: sc 4, inc; repeat 2 times. 12 sts.
- R3-R12: sc around. 12 sts.
- Stuff lightly and FO, leaving a tail.
Sew each leg to the back half of each foot, not the center. This lets the toes point forward and the heel sit under the body. The legs should stand straight with the feet angled slightly outward.
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Patchwork Overall Shorts
The overalls are made in green shades with tan and brown patches. They should look handmade and garden-worn. The main shorts are sage green with darker green panels and brown patch blocks. Use the body as a fitting guide.
Left Shorts Leg
Use sage green yarn.
- Ch 28, join with sl st to form a ring.
- R1: Ch 1, sc around. 28 sts.
- R2: BLO sc around. 28 sts.
- R3-R7: sc around. 28 sts.
- R8: sc 12, dec, sc 12, dec. 26 sts.
- R9-R10: sc around. 26 sts. FO.
Right Shorts Leg
Repeat the left shorts leg, but do not fasten off at the end of R10.
- R11 joining round: sc 26 around right leg, ch 4 for crotch space, sc 26 around left leg, sc 4 across the opposite side of the chain. 60 sts.
- R12-R15: sc around. 60 sts.
- R16: sc 13, dec; repeat 4 times. 56 sts.
- R17-R20: sc around. 56 sts.
- R21: sc 12, dec; repeat 4 times. 52 sts.
- R22-R24: sc around. 52 sts.
- R25: sc 11, dec; repeat 4 times. 48 sts.
- R26: sc around. 48 sts. FO.
Beige Cuffs on Shorts
Use beige yarn. Work on the bottom edge of each shorts leg.
- Attach beige yarn to the BLO ridge of one shorts leg.
- R1: sc around. 28 sts.
- R2: sc around. 28 sts.
- R3: sl st around loosely. FO.
- Repeat on the second shorts leg.
Patch Squares
Make small patch blocks and sew them flat onto the overalls. Place them unevenly like the image, with one tan patch on the left thigh, one brown patch on the lower left side, one darker green vertical patch at the center, and one tan patch near the bib.
Small Tan Patch
- Use tan yarn. Ch 8.
- R1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 7 sts.
- R2-R7: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 7 sts.
- FO, leaving a sewing tail.
Small Brown Patch
- Use brown yarn. Ch 7.
- R1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 6 sts.
- R2-R6: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 6 sts.
- FO, leaving a sewing tail.
Dark Green Center Patch
- Use medium green yarn. Ch 9.
- R1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 8 sts.
- R2-R9: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 8 sts.
- FO, leaving a sewing tail.
Sew patches with visible small whip stitches in matching or slightly darker yarn. Keep them flat, but do not make them perfectly symmetrical. This patchwork detail is important for the garden overall style.
Overall Bib
The bib is tan and sits high on the chest, framed by olive green overalls. It has two small carrot embroideries on the front.
- Use tan yarn. Ch 17.
- R1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 16 sts.
- R2-R11: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts.
- R12: Ch 1, turn, sc 2, hdc 12, sc 2. 16 sts.
- Sc evenly around all four sides, placing 2 sc in each corner. FO, leaving a long tail.
Sew the bib centered on the front upper body, with its lower edge overlapping the top of the shorts. The top edge should sit just below the white chest and below the base of the long neck.
Carrot Embroidery on Bib
- Use carrot orange yarn to stitch two tiny carrots, each about 5 stitches tall.
- Place one carrot on the left half and one carrot on the right half of the bib.
- For each carrot, make one long vertical stitch, then two shorter side stitches to form a tapered triangle.
- Use leaf green yarn to make three short straight stitches at the top of each carrot.
- Angle the carrots slightly inward so they look playful and handmade.
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Overall Waistband and Top Panel
Use olive green yarn. This band sits above the shorts and behind the tan bib.
- Ch 49, join with sl st to form a ring.
- R1: Ch 1, sc around. 48 sts.
- R2-R5: sc around. 48 sts.
- FO and sew around the body just above the shorts.
Place the bib over the front of this band. The bib should cover the center front, while the olive band remains visible at both sides and under the straps.
Overall Straps and Buttons
Make 2 straps with olive green yarn. They cross from the top of the bib over the shoulders to the back waistband. In the image, orange buttons sit at the front where the straps meet the bib.
- Ch 36.
- R1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 35 sts.
- R2: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 35 sts.
- FO, leaving tails for sewing.
- Repeat for the second strap.
Sew the first strap to the top left of the bib, bring it over the left shoulder, and attach it to the back waistband. Sew the second strap in the same way on the right side. Keep both straps flat and slightly angled outward.
Crocheted Orange Buttons
Make 2 for the front straps. Make 2 extra small buttons for decorative patch details if desired.
- Use orange yarn and 2.00 mm hook.
- R1: 6 sc in MR, sl st to first sc.
- FO, leaving a tail.
Sew one button at the top left corner of the bib and one button at the top right corner. Add one tiny dark center stitch on each button for a buttonhole look.
White Wings and Arms
Make 2. The goose has long white wings hanging down at the sides of the overalls. They are slim at the top and rounded at the lower tips.
- Use white yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: sc 1, inc; repeat 3 times. 9 sts.
- R3: sc 2, inc; repeat 3 times. 12 sts.
- R4-R8: sc around. 12 sts.
- R9: sc 5, inc; repeat 2 times. 14 sts.
- R10-R16: sc around. 14 sts.
- R17: sc 5, dec; repeat 2 times. 12 sts.
- R18-R22: sc around. 12 sts.
- Stuff the bottom lightly only. Flatten the top.
- R23: sc through both layers across the top. 6 sts. FO, leaving a tail.
Sew the wings to the body at the shoulder line, just below the neck and slightly behind the straps. The lower tips should reach the upper thigh area of the overalls.
Orange Beak with Open Mouth
The beak is bright orange and wide, with a rounded upper bill and a darker open lower mouth. It sits centered between the eyes. Make the upper and lower bill separately, then sew them together at the side corners only so the mouth remains open.
Upper Beak
- Use orange yarn. Ch 12.
- R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 10, 3 sc in last ch, working on the other side of the chain sc 9, inc in last st. 24 sts.
- R2: inc, sc 9, inc 3 times, sc 9, inc 2 times. 30 sts.
- R3: sc 1, inc, sc 9, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 9, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 36 sts.
- R4-R5: sc around. 36 sts.
- R6: sc 7, dec; repeat 4 times. 32 sts.
- R7: sc 6, dec; repeat 4 times. 28 sts.
- Flatten slightly. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
Lower Beak
- Use orange yarn. Ch 10.
- R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8, 3 sc in last ch, working on the other side sc 7, inc in last st. 20 sts.
- R2: inc, sc 7, inc 3 times, sc 7, inc 2 times. 26 sts.
- R3: sc around. 26 sts.
- R4: sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 3. 23 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Inner Mouth
- Use dark orange or rust yarn. Ch 9.
- R1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 8 sts.
- R2-R3: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 8 sts.
- FO and sew inside the lower beak.
Sew the upper beak across the face between head R17 and R21. Sew only the top and side edges firmly. Place the lower beak under it with a small gap so the dark inner mouth is visible. The corners of the beak should curve upward slightly.
Orange Cheek Rounds
Make 2 small cheek pads in orange. These sit on both sides of the beak and create the rounded cheek look in the image.
- R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: inc around. 12 sts.
- R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
- R4: sc around. 18 sts.
- FO, leaving a tail.
Sew one cheek pad to each side of the beak, touching the beak corner. Stuff very lightly before closing. They should look like soft orange cheek bumps, not flat circles.
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Large Blue Embroidered Eyes
The eyes are embroidered and appliqued so they appear large, glossy, and bright. Make two blue oval eye bases, then add black outlines, lashes, and highlights.
Eye Base
Make 2 with sky blue yarn and 2.00 mm hook.
- Ch 6.
- R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, working on the other side sc 3, inc in last st. 12 sts.
- R2: inc, sc 3, inc 3 times, sc 3, inc 2 times. 18 sts.
- R3: sc 1, inc, sc 3, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 3, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 24 sts.
- FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
Pupil and Sparkle
- With dark blue yarn, stitch a vertical oval in the lower inside area of each blue eye.
- With black thread, outline each eye using small backstitches around the outer edge.
- With white thread, add one large highlight at the upper outer corner and one tiny dot near the lower opposite side.
- Sew the eyes between head R12 and R18, about 5 stitches apart at the inner corners.
- Place the eyes slightly above the beak so the goose has a bright, sweet expression.
Lashes
Use black embroidery thread. Add three long upper lashes at the outer top corner of each eye. Add two short lower lashes under each eye. The lashes should curve outward, matching the image’s doll-like face.
Cream Garden Beanie
The beanie is cream with muted red stripes and a rolled-looking lower band. It fits snugly around the top of the head, leaving the face fully visible. Work in joined rounds for cleaner stripe changes.
- Use cream yarn. R1: 8 sc in MR, sl st to join. 8 sts.
- R2: Ch 1, inc around, sl st. 16 sts.
- R3: Ch 1, sc 1, inc; repeat 8 times, sl st. 24 sts.
- R4: Ch 1, sc 2, inc; repeat 8 times, sl st. 32 sts.
- R5: Ch 1, sc 3, inc; repeat 8 times, sl st. 40 sts.
- R6: Ch 1, sc 4, inc; repeat 8 times, sl st. 48 sts.
- R7: Ch 1, sc 5, inc; repeat 8 times, sl st. 56 sts.
- R8: Change to muted red, ch 1, sc around, sl st. 56 sts.
- R9: Change to cream, ch 1, sc around, sl st. 56 sts.
- R10-R12: With cream, ch 1, sc around, sl st. 56 sts.
- R13: Change to muted red, ch 1, sc around, sl st. 56 sts.
- R14: Change to cream, ch 1, sc around, sl st. 56 sts.
- R15-R17: With cream, ch 1, sc around, sl st. 56 sts.
- R18: Change to muted red, ch 1, sc around, sl st. 56 sts.
- R19: Change to cream, ch 1, BLO sc around, sl st. 56 sts.
- R20-R22: With cream, ch 1, sc around, sl st. 56 sts.
- R23: Sl st loosely around. FO.
Place the beanie at a slight angle, lower on the back and sides, with the front band above the eyes. Sew it invisibly to the head with cream yarn.
Tiny Pumpkin on Beanie
The image shows a small orange pumpkin decoration on the right side of the hat. Make it rounded with ridges and a tiny brown stem.
- Use orange yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: inc around. 12 sts.
- R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
- R4-R6: sc around. 18 sts.
- R7: sc 1, dec; repeat 6 times. 12 sts.
- Stuff lightly.
- R8: dec around. 6 sts. FO, leaving a long tail.
Thread the tail through the pumpkin from top to bottom four times, pulling gently to create pumpkin ridges. For the stem, use brown yarn and ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook and next 2 ch. Sew the stem to the pumpkin top. Attach the pumpkin to the right side of the beanie near the red stripe.
Beige Sandals
Make 2 sandals with beige yarn. They sit around the orange webbed feet, with a sole and a top strap. The front toes must remain visible.
Sandal Sole
- Ch 10.
- R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8, 3 sc in last ch, working on the other side sc 7, inc in last st. 20 sts.
- R2: inc, sc 7, inc 3 times, sc 7, inc 2 times. 26 sts.
- R3: sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 32 sts.
- R4: BLO sc around. 32 sts.
- R5: sc around. 32 sts. FO.
Sandal Strap
- Use beige yarn. Ch 15.
- R1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 14 sts.
- R2: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 14 sts.
- FO, leaving tails.
Place each orange foot into a sandal sole. Sew the sole around the bottom edge without hiding the front toes. Sew the strap across the top of the foot, from side to side. Add one tiny orange flower on the outside edge of each sandal.
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Orange Sandal Flower
- Use orange yarn and 2.00 mm hook.
- R1: In MR, ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, sl st; repeat 4 more times for 5 petals.
- Pull ring tight and FO.
- Sew one flower to each sandal strap.
Crossbody Strap
The satchel strap is beige and crosses from the goose’s left shoulder to the right hip, as shown in the image. It should be narrow and rope-like.
- Use beige yarn. Ch 70.
- R1: Sl st in second ch from hook and across. 69 sl sts.
- FO, leaving tails.
Sew one end of the strap behind the left shoulder. Bring it diagonally across the chest and attach the other end near the right hip. Do not pull too tightly; it should rest naturally over the overalls.
Tan Acorn Satchel
The satchel is a small tan crossbody bag hanging on the front right side. It has a square body and a darker brown acorn charm on the front.
Satchel Body
- Use tan yarn. Ch 15.
- R1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 14 sts.
- R2-R16: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 14 sts.
- Make a second identical panel.
- Place panels together. Sc through both layers around three sides, placing 2 sc in each bottom corner. Leave the top open.
- FO and weave in ends.
Satchel Flap
- Use tan yarn. Attach to the back top edge of the bag.
- R1: Ch 1, sc 14 across. 14 sts.
- R2-R5: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 14 sts.
- R6: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 10, dec. 12 sts.
- R7: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 8, dec. 10 sts.
- FO and sew flap lightly to the front.
Acorn Charm
- Use dark brown yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: sc 1, inc; repeat 3 times. 9 sts.
- R3-R4: sc around. 9 sts.
- R5: sc 1, dec; repeat 3 times. 6 sts. FO.
- Use medium brown yarn for cap: 6 sc in MR, sl st to join, FO.
Sew the cap to the top of the acorn. Attach the acorn charm to the lower right front of the satchel. Add a tiny beige stitch at the top so it appears tied to the bag.
Seed Packets
Make two small rectangular seed packets, one labeled carrots and one labeled radishes. Use cream yarn for both bases. Add colored embroidery for vegetables and simple readable labels using short stitched lines.
Packet Base
Make 2.
- Use cream yarn and 2.00 mm hook. Ch 13.
- R1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 12 sts.
- R2-R9: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 12 sts.
- Sc evenly around the packet, placing 2 sc in each corner. FO.
Carrot Packet
- Use orange yarn to stitch one small carrot in the center lower area.
- Use green yarn to add three leaves at the carrot top.
- Use brown or orange embroidery thread to make short horizontal stitches across the top for the word CARROTS.
- Keep the lettering simple and symbolic if the packet is very small.
Radish Packet
- Use pink or purple yarn to stitch three round radishes at the lower center.
- Add green leaf stitches above the radishes.
- Use green embroidery thread to make short top stitches suggesting the word RADISHES.
- Sew the two packets together along one side if you want them to sit like the open packets in the image.
Small Garden Trowel
The trowel has a beige handle and a light gray scoop. It sits beside the doll as a garden accessory.
Handle
- Use beige yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: sc around. 6 sts.
- R3-R12: sc around. 6 sts for 10 rounds.
- Stuff lightly with a small strand of yarn.
- FO and close the end.
Trowel Scoop
- Use light gray yarn. Ch 7.
- R1: Sc in second ch from hook, hdc 2, dc 2, 5 dc in last ch, working on opposite side dc 2, hdc 2, sc 1. 16 sts.
- R2: Sc 2, hdc 3, dc 2, inc in next 3 sts, dc 2, hdc 3, sc 1. 19 sts.
- R3: Sc around edge evenly, placing 3 sc at the rounded tip. FO.
Sew the handle to the narrow end of the scoop. Add two short brown stitches around the join to look like a wrapped handle band.
Mini Watering Can
The watering can is beige with teal water, a curved handle, a long spout, and a blue flower. It sits beside the goose and should be small enough to look like a prop.
Can Body
- Use beige yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: inc around. 12 sts.
- R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
- R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
- R5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
- R6-R10: sc around. 24 sts.
- R11: sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
- R12: sc around. 18 sts. Stuff lightly.
- R13: sc 1, dec; repeat 6 times. 12 sts.
- FO and close.
Top Opening
- Use cream yarn. R1: 18 sc in MR, but do not pull fully closed; leave a small center opening.
- R2: sc around. 18 sts.
- FO and sew to the top of the can.
Spout
- Use light teal yarn. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
- R2-R9: sc around. 5 sts.
- R10: sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1. 7 sts.
- R11: sc around. 7 sts. FO.
Sew the spout to the upper side of the can, angled upward about 35 degrees. Shape it gently so it points away from the body.
Handle
- Use beige yarn. Ch 18.
- R1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. 17 sts.
- R2: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 17 sts.
- FO and sew as a curved handle on the opposite side of the spout.
Blue Flower on Can
- Use blue yarn. In MR, ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, sl st; repeat 4 more times.
- Use yellow yarn to stitch a center knot.
- Sew the flower to the front of the watering can.
Small Neck and Clothing Fit Adjustments
After the main pieces are finished, dress the body before sewing on the wings permanently. Slide the overall shorts onto the body and position the waistband evenly. Sew the shorts to the body at a few hidden points so they do not twist.
Sew the legs under the shorts with the feet facing forward. The legs should sit about 8 stitches apart at the inner ankles. The body should stand balanced when seated or supported.
Place the neck on top of the body and pin it from all sides. The neck should rise from the center, with the head slightly forward. Sew around the neck base two full times for strength.
Face Placement Guide
- Place the eyes between head R12 and R18.
- Keep the inner corners of the eyes about 5 stitches apart.
- Place the upper beak between R17 and R21.
- Place the lower beak directly under the upper beak, leaving the open dark mouth visible.
- Place cheek rounds beside the beak corners, centered around R19.
- Place the beanie so the lower band sits just above the eye tops.
Patchwork Color Placement Guide
- Main shorts: sage green.
- Waistband and straps: olive green.
- Center panel: medium green vertical patch at front center.
- Left thigh patch: tan square.
- Lower side patch: brown square.
- Bib: tan with two carrot embroideries.
- Cuffs: beige at the bottom of the shorts.
- Buttons: orange, placed at the top corners of the bib.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
- Sew the orange legs to the orange feet first. Make sure the three webbed toes face forward.
- Fit the sandals over the feet and secure the soles and straps with small beige stitches.
- Place the overall shorts onto the body and sew them in place around the waist and inner legs.
- Sew the bib centered on the front. Add straps from bib to back waistband and sew orange buttons on top.
- Sew the neck to the body, then sew the head to the neck. Reinforce both joins twice.
- Sew the wings on the sides, slightly behind the straps, with the tips pointing down.
- Sew the beak, lower mouth, and cheek pads to the face.
- Sew the blue eyes on, then embroider black outlines, upper lashes, lower lashes, pupils, and white highlights.
- Place the beanie on the head and sew it around the back and sides.
- Sew the tiny pumpkin to the right side of the beanie.
- Add the crossbody strap and attach the acorn satchel at the front right hip.
- Arrange the seed packets, trowel, and watering can as separate garden props beside the doll.
Care Notes
Spot clean the goose gently with cool water and mild soap. Do not soak the doll if you used cardboard, wire, plastic canvas, buttons, or heavy embroidery. Press with a clean towel and reshape the neck, beak, feet, and accessories while damp.
Let the doll air dry completely in a shaded place. Avoid direct sunlight for long periods because bright orange, blue, and green yarn may fade over time.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- The head is round, firmly stuffed, and centered on the long white neck.
- The orange beak is wide, rounded, and slightly open.
- The eyes are large, blue, glossy, and finished with black lashes.
- The cream beanie has muted red stripes and a tiny orange pumpkin on one side.
- The overalls include green patchwork, tan bib, carrot embroidery, beige cuffs, and orange buttons.
- The sandals show the orange webbed toes clearly.
- The satchel hangs diagonally across the body and includes a dark brown acorn charm.
- The seed packets, watering can, and trowel are included as separate garden accessories.
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Store the finished goose upright or lying flat in a clean cotton bag. Keep the beak from being crushed by placing tissue around the face. For long-term display, dust gently with a soft brush and avoid pulling on the lashes, straps, seed packets, and tiny flowers.
If the overalls or satchel become flattened, use your fingers to reshape the patches and straps. Do not iron the doll. Steam is not recommended for embroidered eyes or small stuffed pieces because it may loosen the shaping.
For gifting, wrap the doll loosely and place the watering can, trowel, and seed packets in a small pouch. This keeps the tiny props safe and helps the finished crochet set stay close to the garden goose girl shown in the image.



