Crochet Tutorial: Garden Dragon in Blue Daisy Overalls with Duckling and Sun Hat – Free Crochet Pattern.

This garden dragon crochet pattern creates a sweet green amigurumi dragon with a tall rounded head, cream pop-out eyes, soft nostril bumps, yellow belly panel, blue daisy overalls, sandals, leafy wings, a sunflower hair accent, a tiny white duckling, a small potted sprout, a gray watering can, and a yellow sun hat with blue ties. The finished piece is designed to look like the cheerful garden dragon shown in the image.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Notes

• Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate amigurumi.
• Finished size: About 11.5 to 12.5 inches tall when made with worsted weight yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.
• Construction: The head, neck, body, legs, arms, tail, wings, overalls, accessories, and duckling are made separately and sewn together.
• Stitch style: Work most pieces in continuous spiral rounds unless the pattern says to join.
• Stuffing: Stuff firmly enough to hold shape, but do not overstuff the overalls or flat accessories.
• Image match: Place the head slightly forward, the belly large and pear-shaped, the wings angled behind the shoulders, and the accessories arranged around the dragon like a garden display.

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton or cotton-acrylic yarn in garden green for the dragon body.
• Light yellow yarn for the belly, neck front, wing membranes, sunflower petals, and sun hat.
• Medium blue yarn for the overalls, satchel, sandal straps, hat ribbon, and wing edging.
• Cream yarn for eye bases and daisy petals.
• White yarn for the duckling body and small daisy petals.
• Brown yarn for the sunflower center and plant pot soil.
• Terracotta yarn for the plant pot.
• Gray yarn for the watering can.
• Orange yarn for the duckling beak, duck feet, and overall buttons if not using buttons.
• Small amount of black yarn or safety eyes for eye pupils and duck eye.
• 3.0 mm crochet hook for the main amigurumi.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for flowers, straps, small details, and appliques.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Yarn needle, stitch marker, scissors, pins.
• Two 8 mm orange buttons for the overall straps, or crochet buttons as written below.
• Optional pipe cleaner or craft wire for the watering can handle only, not for children’s toys.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• R: round or row
• FO: fasten off

Gauge and Tension

The dragon in the image has dense, rounded stitches with no visible stuffing gaps. Use a hook smaller than your yarn label recommends. A 3.0 mm hook with worsted weight yarn should give firm, smooth fabric. If your stitches are loose, move down to 2.75 mm.

For the best shape, keep the head and body stitches even. The head should be longer from front to back than it is wide, with a rounded snout area and a taller crown. The body should look like a soft pear, wider at the lower belly and narrower at the chest.

Main Dragon Body

Use garden green yarn. The body is worked from the bottom upward. The bottom should be round and full, because the overalls sit around the widest belly area.

Body

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. R9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
10. R10: sc 8, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
11. R11-R17: sc around. 60 sts for 7 rounds.
12. R18: sc 18, inc, sc 24, inc, sc 16. 62 sts.
13. R19-R20: sc around. 62 sts.
14. R21: sc 8, dec, repeat 6 times, sc 2. 56 sts.
15. R22-R23: sc around. 56 sts.
16. R24: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 49 sts.
17. R25: sc around. 49 sts.
18. R26: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
19. R27: sc around. 42 sts.
20. R28: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 35 sts.
21. R29: sc around. 35 sts.
22. R30: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 28 sts.
23. R31: sc around. 28 sts.
24. R32: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 21 sts.

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Stuff firmly, shaping the lower body into a rounded seated belly. The front should look plump under the overalls. FO with a long tail. Do not close the top completely yet if you prefer to sew the neck into the opening.

Yellow Belly Patch

The yellow belly panel begins under the neck and continues down the front of the body, visible above and inside the blue overalls. Use light yellow yarn and work in rows.

1. R1: ch 9, sc in second ch from hook and across. 8 sts.
2. R2: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 6, inc. 10 sts.
3. R3: ch 1, turn, sc across. 10 sts.
4. R4: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 8, inc. 12 sts.
5. R5-R13: ch 1, turn, sc across. 12 sts.
6. R14: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 8, dec. 10 sts.
7. R15: ch 1, turn, sc across. 10 sts.
8. R16: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 6, dec. 8 sts.
9. Border: sc evenly around the patch, placing 2 sc in each corner.

FO with a long tail. Pin the patch to the front of the body from the upper chest down into the overall opening. Sew only after the neck is attached so the yellow line looks continuous.

Long Neck

Use garden green yarn for the tube and light yellow for the front strip. The neck is tall and slightly narrow, visible above the bib of the overalls.

Green Neck Tube

1. R1: 18 sc in MR. 18 sts.
2. R2: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
3. R3-R18: sc around. 24 sts for 16 rounds.
4. R19: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 21 sts.
5. R20: sc around. 21 sts.

Stuff the neck firmly so it supports the large head. FO with a long tail. Sew the bottom of the neck into the top of the body. Angle the neck slightly forward, because the dragon’s head leans gently toward the viewer.

Yellow Neck Front Strip

1. R1: ch 7, sc in second ch from hook and across. 6 sts.
2. R2-R19: ch 1, turn, sc across. 6 sts.
3. Border: sc evenly around.

Sew this strip down the front of the neck. Continue the lower edge over the top of the yellow belly patch so the two yellow sections look like one continuous chest panel.

Dragon Head

The head is the most important shape. It is rounded, tall, and slightly snout-heavy. The lower front should bulge softly, with two nostril bumps near the top of the snout. Use garden green yarn.

Head and Snout

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. R9-R15: sc around. 48 sts for 7 rounds.
10. R16: sc 14, inc, sc 18, inc, sc 14. 50 sts.
11. R17-R20: sc around. 50 sts.
12. R21: sc 15, dec, sc 16, dec, sc 15. 48 sts.
13. R22: sc around. 48 sts.
14. R23: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
15. R24: sc around. 42 sts.
16. R25: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
17. R26: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
18. R27: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
19. R28: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
20. R29: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.

Stuff firmly while shaping the front into a rounded muzzle and the back into a taller oval skull. FO and close. The starting center of the head will be the front snout. The closing end becomes the upper back of the head.

Nostril Bumps

Make 2 in garden green.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 10 sts.
3. R3: sc around. 10 sts.
4. R4: dec around. 5 sts.

Lightly stuff each bump. Sew them to the upper front snout, about 6 stitches apart, placed between R10 and R13 of the head. Angle each bump outward slightly. Add one small vertical black stitch on each nostril if desired.

Eye Bases

Make 2 in cream yarn. The eyes are large, raised, and set close together on the upper face.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4-R5: sc around. 18 sts.
5. R6: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.

Stuff each eye base lightly so it becomes a soft dome. Insert or embroider black pupils on the front lower center of each cream dome. Place the eyes on top of the head above the nostril bumps, with the inner edges nearly touching. Sew firmly around the base.

Small Head Spikes

Make 3 small rounded spikes in darker green. These sit on the crown like soft leaf-shaped dragon spikes.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2: sc around. 5 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat twice, sc 1. 7 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 7 sts.
5. R5: sc 2, inc, repeat twice, sc 1. 9 sts.
6. R6: sc around. 9 sts.

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Flatten each spike. Sew one centered behind the eyes and one on each side of it, forming a gentle row from front to back. The side spikes should tilt outward slightly.

Sunflower and Blue Leaf Hair Accent

The flower is attached on the dragon’s upper right side of the head. It has a brown center, yellow petals, and a small blue leaf behind it.

Sunflower Center

Use brown yarn and 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.

FO. Leave a long tail.

Yellow Petals

Join yellow yarn to any front loop of R3.

1. Petal 1: ch 4, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, sl st into next center stitch.
2. Repeat Petal 1 around until you have 12 petals.

FO and weave in the yellow end. The petals should form a bright ring around the brown center.

Blue Leaf

Use medium blue yarn.

1. R1: ch 8.
2. R2: sc in second ch from hook, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st in last ch.
3. Work on the opposite side of the chain: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st.

FO. Sew the blue leaf behind the sunflower so it peeks out on the lower right side. Sew the flower to the dragon’s right temple, slightly behind the eye, matching the image.

Arms

Make 2 in garden green. The arms are slim, hang down beside the overalls, and curve slightly forward.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R5: sc around. 12 sts.
4. R6: sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec. 10 sts.
5. R7-R22: sc around. 10 sts for 16 rounds.
6. R23: flatten the opening and sc 5 through both layers.

Stuff the lower hand area lightly and leave the upper arm mostly unstuffed so it rests naturally. Sew the arms to the sides of the body at the base of the neck, over the overall side openings. The dragon’s right arm holds the duckling, so angle that arm slightly forward.

Legs, Feet, Toes, and Sandals

The dragon sits with short legs in front. The feet are green with rounded toes, and each foot wears a blue sandal with a daisy on the strap.

Legs

Make 2 in garden green.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4-R8: sc around. 18 sts.
5. R9: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 15 sts.
6. R10-R12: sc around. 15 sts.

Stuff lightly. FO with long tail. Sew the legs to the lower front sides of the body, partly under the overalls, so only the lower legs and feet show.

Feet

Make 2 in garden green.

1. R1: ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the opposite side: sc 4, inc in last ch. 14 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc twice. 20 sts.
3. R3-R5: sc around. 20 sts.
4. R6: sc 5, dec 5 times, sc 5. 15 sts.
5. R7: sc around. 15 sts.

Stuff the front of each foot. Sew each foot to a leg with the toe area pointing forward.

Toes

Make 6 small toes in garden green.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 10 sts.
3. R3: sc around. 10 sts.
4. R4: dec around. 5 sts.

Stuff lightly and close. Sew 3 toes to the front of each foot. The middle toe should sit slightly forward, with the side toes angled outward.

Blue Sandal Sole

Make 2 in medium blue.

1. R1: ch 9, sc in second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the opposite side: sc 6, inc. 18 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 6, inc 3 times, sc 6, inc twice. 24 sts.
3. R3: sc around. 24 sts.

FO. Sew one blue sole under each green foot, leaving a visible blue rim around the edge.

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Sandal Straps

Make 2 front straps in blue.

1. R1: ch 12, sc in second ch from hook and across. 11 sts.

Sew one strap across the top of each foot over the base of the toes. Add a tiny daisy to each strap using the mini daisy instructions later in the pattern.

Tail

The tail appears on the dragon’s right side near the yellow hat. It is green, tapered, and has small soft spikes along the top.

Tail Base

Use garden green yarn.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2: sc around. 5 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat twice, sc 1. 7 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 7 sts.
5. R5: sc 2, inc, repeat twice, sc 1. 9 sts.
6. R6: sc around. 9 sts.
7. R7: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts.
8. R8-R10: sc around. 12 sts.
9. R11: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 15 sts.
10. R12-R14: sc around. 15 sts.
11. R15: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
12. R16-R18: sc around. 18 sts.

Stuff gradually, keeping the tail curved. FO with a long tail. Sew the wide end to the back lower body, curving it toward the dragon’s right side.

Tail Spikes

Make 4 small spikes in darker green.

1. R1: 4 sc in MR. 4 sts.
2. R2: sc around. 4 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat twice. 6 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 6 sts.

Flatten and sew along the top of the tail. Start near the body and finish near the tail tip.

Wings

The wings are green with yellow inner membranes and darker green vein lines. They sit behind the shoulders and spread outward like soft garden leaves.

Wing Frame

Make 2 in garden green. Work flat in rows.

1. R1: ch 18, sc in second ch from hook and across. 17 sts.
2. R2: ch 1, turn, sc 16, inc. 18 sts.
3. R3: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 17. 19 sts.
4. R4: ch 1, turn, sc across. 19 sts.
5. R5: ch 1, turn, sc 5, hdc 5, dc 5, hdc 3, sc 1. 19 sts.
6. R6: ch 1, turn, sc 4, hdc 5, dc 5, hdc 3, sc 2. 19 sts.
7. R7: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 15, dec. 17 sts.
8. R8: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 13, dec. 15 sts.
9. R9: ch 1, turn, sc 3, ch 3, skip 2, sc 3, ch 3, skip 2, sc 5. This creates scalloped lower points.
10. Border: sc evenly around the full wing, placing 3 sc in each outer point.

FO. Make the second wing the same way. When sewing, flip one wing so they mirror each other.

Yellow Wing Membrane

Make 2 in light yellow.

1. R1: ch 14, sc in second ch from hook and across. 13 sts.
2. R2: ch 1, turn, sc across. 13 sts.
3. R3: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 9, dec. 11 sts.
4. R4: ch 1, turn, sc across. 11 sts.
5. R5: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 7, dec. 9 sts.
6. R6: ch 1, turn, sc 2, ch 3, skip 2, sc 2, ch 3, skip 2, sc 1.
7. Border: sc evenly around.

Sew one yellow membrane onto each green wing, leaving a green border visible. Embroider three green vein lines from the wing base toward the outer points. Sew the wings behind the neck and upper body, about 2 rounds below the head join. Angle the upper wing edge upward and the lower points downward.

Blue Daisy Overalls

The overalls are made in blue and wrap around the dragon’s large belly. The bib is high on the front, with two straps and orange buttons. Small white daisies decorate the bib and lower leg area.

Overall Shorts Base

Use medium blue yarn. Work in joined rounds for a clean garment edge.

1. R1: ch 64, join with sl st to form a ring. Be careful not to twist.
2. R2: ch 1, sc around, join. 64 sts.
3. R3-R8: ch 1, sc around, join. 64 sts.
4. R9: ch 1, sc 14, ch 8, skip 8, sc 20, ch 8, skip 8, sc 14, join. These are leg openings.
5. R10: ch 1, sc in each sc and ch around, join. 64 sts.
6. R11-R15: ch 1, sc around, join. 64 sts.
7. R16: ch 1, sc 6, dec, repeat around, join. 56 sts.
8. R17: ch 1, sc around, join. 56 sts.

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FO. Slide the overalls onto the body from the bottom before sewing the legs permanently if needed. The lower edge should sit around the widest part of the belly.

Overall Bib

Attach blue yarn to the front center upper edge of the shorts. Work in rows.

1. R1: sc 18 across the front waistband. 18 sts.
2. R2: ch 1, turn, sc across. 18 sts.
3. R3: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 14, dec. 16 sts.
4. R4-R8: ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts.
5. R9: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 12, dec. 14 sts.
6. R10-R12: ch 1, turn, sc across. 14 sts.
7. Border: sc evenly around the bib edges.

The bib should cover the lower part of the yellow neck strip and sit high on the dragon’s chest.

Overall Straps

Make 2 in medium blue.

1. R1: ch 34, sc in second ch from hook and across. 33 sts.
2. R2: ch 1, turn, sc across. 33 sts.

Sew one strap from the top left bib corner over the shoulder to the back waistband. Sew the second strap from the top right bib corner over the shoulder to the back waistband. Cross them slightly at the back if the fit allows. Attach orange buttons to the front bib corners.

Crochet Orange Buttons

Make 2 if you are not using real buttons.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR, join with sl st. 6 sts.
2. R2: sl st around the edge.

FO and sew to the top corners of the bib. Add two small black or brown stitches through each button to mimic button holes.

Side Openings

To match the image, leave visible green side sections under the arms. If your overalls cover too much of the side, fold the upper side edges inward and tack them down with blue yarn. The overalls should look like a rounded romper rather than tight pants.

Daisy Appliques

Make several daisies for the overalls and sandals. The image shows a larger daisy on the bib, a smaller daisy on the lower front, and daisies on the sandals.

Large Daisy

Use yellow for the center and white for petals.

1. Center R1: 6 sc in MR, join. 6 sts.
2. Center R2: inc around, join. 12 sts.
3. Petals: join white yarn, ch 4, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, sl st into next center stitch. Repeat 10 times for 10 petals.

Sew the large daisy to the left side of the bib front.

Small Daisy

Make 4 small daisies.

1. Center: with yellow, 5 sc in MR, join.
2. Petals: join white, ch 3, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, sl st into next center stitch. Repeat 6 times.

Sew one small daisy to the lower overall leg, one near the lower bib edge, and one on each sandal strap.

Blue Satchel with White Cloud Applique

The satchel rests across the front lower body, with a long blue strap running diagonally from shoulder to hip. It has a white cloud-shaped applique on the front flap.

Satchel Body

Use medium blue yarn.

1. R1: ch 18, sc in second ch from hook and across. 17 sts.
2. R2-R10: ch 1, turn, sc across. 17 sts.
3. R11: ch 1, turn, BLO sc across. 17 sts. This creates the fold line for the flap.
4. R12-R17: ch 1, turn, sc across. 17 sts.
5. Border: sc evenly around the entire rectangle, placing 2 sc in each corner.

Fold the lower 10 rows upward to form the pocket. Sew the side seams with blue yarn. Fold the remaining 7 rows downward as the flap.

Satchel Strap

1. R1: ch 72, sc in second ch from hook and across. 71 sts.

Sew one end to the upper left side of the satchel and the other end to the upper right side. Place the strap diagonally across the dragon from the left shoulder to the right hip, matching the image. Tack the strap to the overalls with a few hidden stitches so it stays in place.

White Cloud Applique

Use white yarn and 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: ch 8.
2. R2: sc in second ch from hook, hdc, dc 3 in next ch, hdc, sc, sl st, sc in last ch.
3. Work along the opposite side: sc, hdc, dc 3 in next st, hdc, sc, sl st.

FO. Shape the applique into a small puffy cloud and sew it to the satchel flap.

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Duckling

The duckling is small, white, and held beside the dragon. It has an orange beak, orange feet, small wings, and a black eye. Make it light enough to sew securely to the dragon’s arm.

Duckling Body

Use white yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5-R9: sc around. 24 sts.
6. R10: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
7. R11: sc around. 18 sts.
8. R12: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.

Stuff firmly. Do not close yet if you want to attach the head directly.

Duckling Head

Use white yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4-R7: sc around. 18 sts.
5. R8: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.

Stuff the head. Sew it to the body with the head upright and slightly tilted toward the dragon.

Duck Beak

Use orange yarn.

1. R1: ch 5, sc in second ch from hook, sc 2, 3 sc in last ch. Work opposite side: sc 2, inc. 10 sts.
2. R2: sc around. 10 sts.

Flatten and sew to the front of the head. Embroider one black eye on the visible side. Add the second eye if the duckling will be viewed from both sides.

Duck Wings

Make 2 in white.

1. R1: ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st.

Sew one wing to each side of the duck body.

Duck Feet

Make 2 in orange.

1. R1: ch 4.
2. R2: sl st in second ch from hook, ch 2, sl st in same ch, sl st in next ch, ch 2, sl st in same ch, sl st in last ch.

Sew the feet to the lower front of the duck body. Sew the duckling against the dragon’s right side and tack it to the dragon’s arm so it looks gently held.

Yellow Sun Hat with Blue Ribbon

The sun hat lies beside the dragon. It is yellow with a rounded crown, wide brim, and blue ribbon ties.

Hat Crown

Use yellow yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: BLO sc around. 30 sts.
7. R7-R10: sc around. 30 sts.

Hat Brim

1. R11: FLO sc 2, inc, repeat around. 40 sts.
2. R12: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 50 sts.
3. R13: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
4. R14: sc around. 60 sts.
5. R15: sl st around for a neat edge.

FO and shape the brim flat. The hat should sit on the table beside the dragon, not on the head.

Blue Hat Ribbon and Ties

1. Ribbon: with blue yarn, ch 34, sc in second ch from hook and across. 33 sts.
2. Tie 1: ch 24, sl st back along the chain.
3. Tie 2: ch 24, sl st back along the chain.

Wrap the ribbon around the hat crown and sew it in place. Attach the two ties to one side so they drape outward like the blue strings in the image.

Small Potted Sprout

The plant pot sits near the duckling and watering can. It has a terracotta pot, brown soil, and small green leaves.

Terracotta Pot

Use terracotta yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: BLO sc around. 12 sts.
4. R4: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
5. R5-R8: sc around. 18 sts.
6. R9: FLO sc around to create the rim. 18 sts.
7. R10: sc around. 18 sts.

Stuff the pot lightly. Insert a small brown soil circle on top.

Soil Circle

Use brown yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.

Sew the soil circle to the top rim of the pot.

Sprout Leaves

Make 4 leaves in garden green.

1. R1: ch 6, sc in second ch from hook, hdc, dc, hdc, sl st.

Sew the leaves into the center of the soil. Arrange two leaves upward and two outward.

Gray Watering Can

The watering can is small and gray, placed on the table near the dragon. It has a round body, spout, handle, and open top detail.

Watering Can Body

Use gray yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5-R8: sc around. 24 sts.
6. R9: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
7. R10: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
8. R11: sc around. 18 sts.

Stuff lightly. FO and leave the top slightly open, or sew a gray circle inside if you prefer a closed toy.

Watering Can Spout

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2-R8: sc around. 5 sts.
3. R9: sc 1, inc, repeat twice, sc 1. 7 sts.
4. R10: sc around. 7 sts.

Stuff only the wide end very lightly. Sew the narrow end to the side of the watering can, angling the spout upward.

Watering Can Handle

1. R1: ch 24, sc in second ch from hook and across. 23 sts.
2. R2: ch 1, turn, sc across. 23 sts.

Curve the strip into a handle and sew both ends to the opposite side of the can. Shape it into a rounded handle. Add a short chain of 8 stitches to the top as a small rim handle if desired.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew the neck firmly to the top of the body. Keep it centered but angled slightly forward.
2. Sew the head to the top of the neck. The snout should face forward and slightly downward.
3. Sew the yellow neck strip and belly patch in one straight visual line down the front.
4. Place the overalls around the body. Sew the waistband invisibly to the body so it does not slide.
5. Attach the bib, straps, and orange buttons. Keep the straps flat over the shoulders.
6. Sew the arms to the sides. Position the dragon’s right arm near the duckling.
7. Sew the legs and feet to the lower body. Add toes, sandal soles, straps, and sandal daisies.
8. Sew the wings behind the shoulders. The wing tips should point outward and slightly down.
9. Sew the tail to the back lower body, curving it toward the dragon’s right side.
10. Attach the eyes, nostril bumps, head spikes, sunflower, and blue leaf accent.
11. Sew the satchel strap diagonally over the body and secure the satchel at the lower front.
12. Sew or place the duckling, potted sprout, watering can, and sun hat as separate display accessories.

For the face, embroider tiny black nostril marks on the green bumps. Add a small white highlight stitch on each black pupil if desired. Keep the expression soft and curious by placing the pupils low and slightly inward on the cream eye domes.

Care Notes

• Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not wring the stuffed dragon, because the head and neck can lose shape.
• Lay flat to dry on a clean towel.
• If buttons are used, check them often if the toy will be handled by children.
• For a baby-safe version, embroider all eyes and buttons instead of using plastic or sewn-on buttons.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is large, rounded, and slightly forward-facing.
• The cream eyes are raised and close together.
• The yellow belly line continues from neck to body.
• The blue overalls fit around the full belly and have visible straps and orange buttons.
• The daisies are placed on the bib, lower overalls, and sandals.
• The sunflower sits on the dragon’s right side with a blue leaf behind it.
• The wings show yellow membranes with green vein embroidery.
• The duckling has an orange beak and orange feet.
• The sun hat, watering can, and potted sprout are included as separate garden accessories.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the dragon upright in a dry place away from direct sunlight. Cotton yarn can fade if displayed in strong light for long periods. To keep the overalls and accessories crisp, reshape the wings, hat brim, and satchel flap with your fingers after cleaning.

For long-term display, place the dragon on a flat shelf and arrange the duckling, plant pot, watering can, and sun hat around the feet. Avoid compressing the wings against a wall. A little space behind the shoulders helps the dragon keep the same cheerful garden silhouette shown in the finished design.