Knitting Tutorial: Leopard Cub Girl in Sage Daisy Dress with Cardigan and Bee Bag – Free Knitting Pattern.

This detailed knitting pattern creates a charming leopard cub girl wearing a sage green daisy dress, a cream lace cardigan, cream Mary Jane shoes, and an oversized dusty pink bow with a silver key charm. The finished set also includes a sage sun hat, a honey-colored bee shoulder bag, a blue watering can, and a small terracotta pot with a knitted succulent.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size and Construction

The completed leopard cub measures approximately 18 to 19 inches tall when made with DK-weight yarn and the recommended needle size. The head is intentionally large and rounded, while the body, arms, and legs are softly shaped to reproduce the gentle storybook proportions shown in the reference design.

• Standing height: Approximately 18 to 19 inches.
• Head width: Approximately 6 1/2 inches at the widest point.
• Body length: Approximately 6 inches from neck to lower edge.
• Leg length: Approximately 7 inches before adding shoes.
• Arm length: Approximately 5 1/2 inches.
• Dress length: Approximately 8 inches from upper bodice to hem.
• Hat diameter: Approximately 8 inches across the brim.
• Bee bag size: Approximately 3 inches wide and 3 1/2 inches tall.

The leopard, clothing, and accessories are knitted as separate components. Most toy pieces are worked in the round to reduce visible seams. The cardigan, bow, shoe straps, and several decorative components are knitted flat and sewn into position.

Skill Level

This pattern is suitable for confident beginners and intermediate knitters. You should be comfortable knitting in the round, increasing, decreasing, picking up stitches, knitting small circumferences, duplicate stitching, mattress seaming, and assembling stuffed toy pieces.

Materials

• Approximately 250 yards of beige DK-weight yarn for the leopard body and head.
• Approximately 80 yards of dark chocolate-brown DK-weight yarn for leopard markings, nose, and facial details.
• Approximately 70 yards of cream DK-weight yarn for the muzzle, cardigan, shoes, daisies, and ear accents.
• Approximately 180 yards of sage green DK-weight yarn for the dress and sun hat.
• Approximately 55 yards of dusty pink DK-weight yarn for the bow and bow tails.
• Approximately 45 yards of honey-gold DK-weight yarn for the bee bag.
• Approximately 30 yards of sky-blue DK-weight yarn for the watering can.
• Approximately 20 yards of terracotta DK-weight yarn for the plant pot.
• Small amounts of yellow, black, white, red, and green DK-weight yarn.
• One pair of 3 mm straight knitting needles.
• One set of 3 mm double-pointed needles or a circular needle for magic loop.
• One pair of 2.5 mm needles for the smallest decorations.
• Two 16 mm black safety eyes with washers.
• Polyester toy stuffing.
• One small silver-colored key charm.
• Two small red ladybug buttons, or yarn to make the knitted ladybug decorations.
• Blunt tapestry needle.
• Stitch markers and removable markers.
• Small amount of cream eyelash yarn or brushed mohair for fluffy ear edging.
• Two small pieces of flexible craft wire for the watering-can handle and spout.
• Rust-resistant pins for positioning pieces before sewing.

Gauge

24 stitches and 32 rounds equal 4 inches in stockinette stitch using 3 mm needles. The exact gauge is less important than creating a firm fabric that prevents stuffing from showing through. Use a smaller needle if your knitted fabric appears loose.

Abbreviations

• BO: Bind off.
• CO: Cast on.
• DPN: Double-pointed needle.
• k: Knit.
• k2tog: Knit the next 2 stitches together.
• m1L: Make 1 stitch with a left-leaning increase.
• m1R: Make 1 stitch with a right-leaning increase.
• p: Purl.
• p2tog: Purl the next 2 stitches together.
• rep: Repeat.
• rnd: Round.
• RS: Right side.
• ssk: Slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops.
• st or sts: Stitch or stitches.
• WS: Wrong side.
• yo: Yarn over.

Important Pattern Notes

• Place a marker at the beginning of each round.
• Stuff the toy firmly but gradually to avoid creating hard lumps.
• Use mattress stitch for flat seams and small whipstitches for attached decorations.
• Duplicate-stitch the leopard markings before heavily stuffing each piece.
• Keep the front-center stitch marked on the head, body, arms, and legs.
• The leopard markings should appear irregular rather than forming perfect rows.
• All stitch counts shown in parentheses are the total stitches remaining after completing that row or round.

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Leopard Marking Motifs

Use dark chocolate-brown yarn and duplicate stitch over the finished beige stockinette. Each duplicate stitch should completely cover one beige knitted stitch without pulling the fabric inward.

Small Solid Spot

1. Cover one stitch with dark brown duplicate stitch.
2. On the next round above, cover the stitch directly above it.
3. Cover one stitch to the left or right of the lower stitch to create an irregular three-stitch mark.

Medium Solid Spot

1. Cover 2 adjacent stitches on the first round.
2. Cover 3 stitches directly above them on the second round.
3. Cover 2 stitches on the third round, offset one stitch toward the left or right.

Open Rosette

1. Cover 3 stitches on the first round.
2. On the second round, cover 1 stitch, leave 2 center stitches beige, then cover 1 stitch.
3. Repeat the second-round arrangement once more.
4. Cover 2 stitches on the final round, leaving the center open.

Curved Cheek Rosette

1. Cover 4 stitches in a gently curved lower line.
2. Cover 2 stitches above the left end and 2 stitches above the right end.
3. Cover 1 stitch above each outer edge.
4. Leave the central beige stitches visible to produce the open leopard-rosette effect.

Head

Using beige yarn and 3 mm DPNs, begin at the lower neck and work toward the top of the head. The increases create the broad lower cheeks, while the upper decreases form the rounded crown.

1. Rnd 1: CO 24 sts. Divide evenly over the needles and join without twisting. K24.
2. Rnd 2: Rep k3, m1R around. (30 sts)
3. Rnd 3: K30.
4. Rnd 4: Rep k4, m1R around. (36 sts)
5. Rnd 5: K36.
6. Rnd 6: Rep k5, m1R around. (42 sts)
7. Rnd 7: K42.
8. Rnd 8: Rep k6, m1R around. (48 sts)
9. Rnd 9: K48.
10. Rnd 10: Rep k7, m1R around. (54 sts)
11. Rnd 11: K54.
12. Rnd 12: Rep k8, m1R around. (60 sts)
13. Rnd 13: K60.
14. Rnd 14: Rep k9, m1R around. (66 sts)
15. Rnd 15: K66.
16. Rnd 16: Rep k10, m1R around. (72 sts)
17. Rnds 17 to 38: K72 on every round.
18. Rnd 39: Rep k10, k2tog around. (66 sts)
19. Rnd 40: K66.
20. Rnd 41: Rep k9, k2tog around. (60 sts)
21. Rnd 42: K60.
22. Rnd 43: Rep k8, k2tog around. (54 sts)
23. Rnd 44: K54.
24. Rnd 45: Rep k7, k2tog around. (48 sts)
25. Rnd 46: K48.
26. Rnd 47: Rep k6, k2tog around. (42 sts)
27. Rnd 48: K42.
28. Rnd 49: Rep k5, k2tog around. (36 sts)
29. Rnd 50: Rep k4, k2tog around. (30 sts)

Insert the safety eyes between Rnds 27 and 28. Position each eye 10 stitches away from the marked front-center stitch, leaving approximately 19 visible stitches between the eyes. Do not fasten the washers until the cream eye patches have been positioned.

1. Rnd 51: Rep k3, k2tog around. (24 sts)
2. Rnd 52: Rep k2, k2tog around. (18 sts)

Stuff the head firmly, concentrating extra stuffing in the lower cheeks and around the sides of the eyes. Keep the front of the face smooth and avoid placing a hard lump directly behind the muzzle area.

1. Rnd 53: Rep k1, k2tog around. (12 sts)
2. Rnd 54: K2tog around. (6 sts)
3. Cut the yarn, thread it through the remaining stitches, pull firmly, and secure inside the head.

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Head Marking Placement

Apply the markings before attaching the muzzle. Count the front-center stitch as Position 0. Positions to the right are positive numbers, and positions to the left are negative numbers.

• Place one medium solid spot centered at Position 0 over Rnds 34 to 36.
• Place two small solid spots at Positions minus 7 and plus 7 over Rnds 33 to 35.
• Place two medium spots at Positions minus 14 and plus 14 over Rnds 30 to 33.
• Place one open rosette at Position minus 22 over Rnds 25 to 29.
• Place one curved rosette at Position plus 22 over Rnds 24 to 29.
• Place two open rosettes along the lower cheeks over Rnds 19 to 24.
• Place three irregular spots around each temple between Rnds 31 and 39.
• Add six small scattered spots around the back of the head between Rnds 20 and 37.

Cream Eye Patches

Make two. These softly pointed patches frame the eyes and reproduce the pale markings visible above and beside each eye.

1. Using cream yarn and 2.5 mm needles, CO 5 sts.
2. Row 1, RS: K5.
3. Row 2: P5.
4. Row 3: K1, m1R, k3, m1L, k1. (7 sts)
5. Row 4: P7.
6. Row 5: K1, m1R, k5, m1L, k1. (9 sts)
7. Row 6: P9.
8. Rows 7 to 10: Work 4 rows in stockinette, beginning with a knit row.
9. Row 11: Ssk, k5, k2tog. (7 sts)
10. Row 12: P7.
11. Row 13: Ssk, k3, k2tog. (5 sts)
12. Row 14: P5.
13. Row 15: Ssk, k1, k2tog. (3 sts)
14. Row 16: P3.
15. Row 17: Slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over. (1 st)
16. Cut the yarn and pull it through the final stitch.

Carefully cut a tiny opening in the center of each patch, pass the safety-eye post through it, and position the pointed end upward. Sew the outer edge to the head with small cream stitches before securing the safety-eye washer.

Muzzle

Left and Right Muzzle Pads

Make two identical cream oval pieces.

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1, RS: K6.
3. Row 2: P6.
4. Row 3: K1, m1R, k4, m1L, k1. (8 sts)
5. Row 4: P8.
6. Row 5: K1, m1R, k6, m1L, k1. (10 sts)
7. Row 6: P10.
8. Row 7: K1, m1R, k8, m1L, k1. (12 sts)
9. Rows 8 to 15: Work 8 rows in stockinette stitch.
10. Row 16: P12.
11. Row 17: Ssk, k8, k2tog. (10 sts)
12. Row 18: P10.
13. Row 19: Ssk, k6, k2tog. (8 sts)
14. Row 20: P8.
15. Row 21: Ssk, k4, k2tog. (6 sts)
16. BO all 6 sts.

Place the muzzle pads side by side below the eyes, beginning approximately two rounds beneath the eye line. Slightly overlap their inner edges. Sew around each piece, adding a thin layer of stuffing before closing the final inch.

Lower Chin

1. Using cream yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: Work in stockinette stitch, beginning with a knit row.
3. Row 9: Ssk, k4, k2tog. (6 sts)
4. Row 10: P6.
5. Row 11: Ssk, k2, k2tog. (4 sts)
6. BO 4 sts.

Place the wider cast-on edge beneath the two muzzle pads. Sew the lower and side edges to the head, leaving the upper edge tucked slightly under the muzzle pads.

Nose and Mouth

Knitted Nose

1. Using dark brown yarn and 2.5 mm needles, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: K8.
3. Row 2: P8.
4. Row 3: K1, m1R, k6, m1L, k1. (10 sts)
5. Row 4: P10.
6. Row 5: Ssk, k6, k2tog. (8 sts)
7. Row 6: P8.
8. Row 7: Ssk, k4, k2tog. (6 sts)
9. Row 8: P6.
10. Row 9: Ssk, k2, k2tog. (4 sts)
11. BO 4 sts.

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Gather the outer edge slightly to form a rounded triangular nose. Place it over the center where the two muzzle pads meet. Add a tiny pinch of stuffing beneath the center before sewing the nose securely in place.

Using doubled dark brown yarn, make one straight vertical stitch from the lower center of the nose to the upper center of the chin. Form the mouth with two curved lines, each extending approximately six knitted stitches outward from the center line.

Ears

Make two beige outer ears and two cream inner ears.

Outer Ear

1. Using beige yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. Row 5: Ssk, k16, k2tog. (18 sts)
4. Row 6: P18.
5. Row 7: Ssk, k14, k2tog. (16 sts)
6. Row 8: P16.
7. Row 9: Ssk, k12, k2tog. (14 sts)
8. Row 10: P14.
9. Row 11: Ssk, k10, k2tog. (12 sts)
10. Row 12: P12.
11. Row 13: Ssk, k8, k2tog. (10 sts)
12. Row 14: P10.
13. Row 15: Ssk, k6, k2tog. (8 sts)
14. Row 16: P8.
15. Row 17: Ssk, k4, k2tog. (6 sts)
16. BO 6 sts.

Inner Ear

1. Using cream yarn, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. Row 5: Ssk, k10, k2tog. (12 sts)
4. Row 6: P12.
5. Row 7: Ssk, k8, k2tog. (10 sts)
6. Row 8: P10.
7. Row 9: Ssk, k6, k2tog. (8 sts)
8. Row 10: P8.
9. Row 11: Ssk, k4, k2tog. (6 sts)
10. BO 6 sts.

Sew each cream inner ear to one beige outer ear. Add cream eyelash yarn or brushed mohair around the two side edges. Fold the cast-on edge slightly to create a shallow cup and sew the ears to the head between Rnds 34 and 42.

Body

Begin at the lower edge and work upward. The body should remain slightly pear-shaped, with a broader lower section and a narrow neck.

1. Using beige yarn, CO 42 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: K42.
3. Rnd 2: Rep k6, m1R around. (48 sts)
4. Rnd 3: K48.
5. Rnd 4: Rep k7, m1R around. (54 sts)
6. Rnds 5 to 22: K54.
7. Rnd 23: Rep k7, k2tog around. (48 sts)
8. Rnds 24 to 30: K48.
9. Rnd 31: Rep k6, k2tog around. (42 sts)
10. Rnds 32 to 36: K42.
11. Rnd 37: Rep k5, k2tog around. (36 sts)
12. Rnds 38 to 41: K36.
13. Rnd 42: Rep k4, k2tog around. (30 sts)
14. Rnd 43: K30.
15. Rnd 44: Rep k3, k2tog around. (24 sts)
16. Rnds 45 to 48: K24.
17. BO all 24 sts loosely.

Duplicate-stitch eight irregular dark brown spots over the body. Place four toward the front and four around the sides and back. Stuff firmly, keeping the lower body rounded and the neck opening flat.

Legs

Make two. Each leg is worked from the upper thigh toward the ankle.

1. Using beige yarn, CO 24 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1 to 10: K24.
3. Rnd 11: K5, k2tog, k10, ssk, k5. (22 sts)
4. Rnds 12 to 22: K22.
5. Rnd 23: K4, k2tog, k10, ssk, k4. (20 sts)
6. Rnds 24 to 36: K20.
7. Rnd 37: Rep k3, k2tog around. (16 sts)
8. Rnds 38 to 42: K16.
9. BO 16 sts.

Add five dark brown markings to each leg. Place two open rosettes on the front, one medium spot at the side of the knee, and two smaller marks near the ankle. Stuff the legs firmly, leaving the upper half inch slightly softer for easier attachment.

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Arms

Make two. The paws remain visible beneath the cardigan sleeves.

1. Using beige yarn, CO 18 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1 to 8: K18.
3. Rnd 9: K4, k2tog, k6, ssk, k4. (16 sts)
4. Rnds 10 to 26: K16.
5. Rnd 27: Rep k2, k2tog around. (12 sts)
6. Rnds 28 to 30: K12.
7. Stuff the arm, keeping the shoulder end slightly soft.
8. Rnd 31: K2tog around. (6 sts)
9. Cut the yarn, pull it through the remaining stitches, and fasten securely.

Duplicate-stitch one open rosette and three small spots onto the lower half of each arm. Keep the upper arm relatively plain because it will be covered by the cardigan sleeves.

Tail

1. Using beige yarn, CO 16 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1 to 40: K16.
3. Rnd 41: Rep k2, k2tog around. (12 sts)
4. Rnds 42 to 46: K12.
5. Rnd 47: K2tog around. (6 sts)
6. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches.

Duplicate-stitch ten dark brown irregular marks along the tail. Stuff lightly so the tail remains flexible. Curve it gently to the doll’s left side and tack it to the edge of the dress after final assembly.

Sage Green Daisy Dress

The dress is worked from the lower hem upward. The wide skirt is gradually decreased into a fitted bodice. Two narrow shoulder straps hold the dress securely beneath the cardigan.

1. Using sage green yarn and 3 mm needles, CO 120 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: P120.
3. Rnd 2: K120.
4. Rnd 3: P120.
5. Rnd 4: K120.
6. Rnds 5 to 32: K120.
7. Rnd 33: Rep k3, k2tog around. (96 sts)
8. Rnds 34 to 42: K96.
9. Rnd 43: Rep k2, k2tog around. (72 sts)
10. Rnds 44 to 50: K72.
11. Rnd 51: Rep k4, k2tog around. (60 sts)
12. Rnds 52 to 67: K60.
13. Rnd 68: P60.
14. Rnd 69: K60.
15. Rnd 70: P60.
16. BO all 60 sts loosely.

Dress Straps

Make two.

1. Using sage yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 22: Knit every row.
3. BO all 8 sts.

Place the front ends of the straps 10 stitches apart at the upper dress edge. Sew the back ends 14 stitches apart. Try the dress on the body before securing the straps permanently.

Knitted Daisies

Make six large daisies for the dress, three small daisies for the ears, and two tiny daisies for the shoe straps.

Large Daisy

1. Using yellow yarn and 2.5 mm needles, CO 8 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. BO all sts and coil the strip into a compact circular center.
4. For each white petal, CO 7 sts.
5. Row 1: K7.
6. Row 2: P7.
7. Row 3: Ssk, k3, k2tog. (5 sts)
8. Row 4: P5.
9. Row 5: Ssk, k1, k2tog. (3 sts)
10. Row 6: Slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over. (1 st)
11. Make eight petals for each large flower.

Sew eight petals evenly around each yellow center. Attach six daisies across the front of the skirt, placing three near the lower hem and three approximately two inches above them.

Small Daisy

Make each small daisy with a four-stitch yellow garter center and six white petals. For each petal, CO 5 sts, knit 2 rows, ssk, k1, k2tog, then pass the outer two stitches over the center stitch.

Sew two small daisies to the upper right ear and one to the upper left ear. Add one small sage leaf beside the uppermost flower by casting on 5 stitches, knitting 3 rows, and decreasing to one stitch.

Tiny Shoe Daisy

For each shoe flower, make a three-stitch yellow center and five white petals. Each petal is formed by casting on 3 stitches, knitting 2 rows, then slipping 1, knitting 2 together, and passing the slipped stitch over.

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Cream Lace Cardigan

The cardigan is knitted flat from the lower edge to the armholes. It has open fronts, garter-stitch bands, lace panels, short sleeves, and two red ladybug decorations.

Cardigan Body

1. Using cream yarn and 3 mm straight needles, CO 74 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 5: Knit every row.
3. Row 6, RS: K6, p62, k6.
4. Row 7: K6, rep k2tog, yo across the next 60 sts, k2, k6.
5. Row 8: K6, p62, k6.
6. Row 9: K6, k62, k6.
7. Rows 10 to 29: Repeat Rows 6 to 9 five times.
8. Row 30: K6, p62, k6.

Divide for Fronts and Back

1. Row 31, RS: K20 and turn for the first front. Place the remaining 54 sts on holders.
2. Row 32: K6, p14.
3. Row 33: BO 3 sts, k17. (17 sts)
4. Rows 34 to 40: Keep the 6-stitch front band in garter stitch and the remaining stitches in stockinette.
5. Row 41: K6, ssk, k9. (16 sts)
6. Row 42: K6, p10.
7. Row 43: K6, ssk, k8. (15 sts)
8. Rows 44 to 48: Continue in established stitch pattern.
9. BO all 15 sts.

Return the next 34 stitches to the needle for the back.

1. Back Row 1, RS: BO 3 sts, k28, k2tog. (29 sts)
2. Back Row 2: P29.
3. Rows 3 to 17: Work in stockinette stitch.
4. BO all 29 sts.

Return the final 20 stitches to the needle for the second front.

1. Row 1, RS: BO 3 sts, k17. (17 sts)
2. Row 2: P11, k6.
3. Rows 3 to 9: Keep the final 6 stitches in garter stitch and the remaining stitches in stockinette.
4. Row 10: K9, k2tog, k6. (16 sts)
5. Row 12: K8, k2tog, k6. (15 sts)
6. Rows 13 to 17: Continue in the established pattern.
7. BO all 15 sts.

Sew each shoulder seam across 8 stitches, leaving the center back edge open for the neck.

Cardigan Sleeves

Make two.

1. CO 34 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Knit every row.
3. Row 5, RS: K2, rep yo, ssk across to the final 2 sts, k2.
4. Row 6: P34.
5. Rows 7 to 16: Work in stockinette stitch.
6. Row 17: BO 3 sts, k31. (31 sts)
7. Row 18: BO 3 sts, p28. (28 sts)
8. Row 19: Ssk, k24, k2tog. (26 sts)
9. Row 20: P26.
10. Row 21: Ssk, k22, k2tog. (24 sts)
11. Row 22: P24.
12. Row 23: Rep k2tog across. (12 sts)
13. Cut the yarn, pull it through all 12 sts, and secure.

Sew the sleeve seams. Set each sleeve into the armhole with the gathered crown centered over the shoulder seam. Sew the side seams from the cuff to the cardigan hem.

Ladybug Cardigan Decorations

Make two using red and black yarn.

1. Using red yarn and 2.5 mm needles, CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. Row 5: Ssk, k2, k2tog. (4 sts)
4. Row 6: P4.
5. Row 7: K2tog twice. (2 sts)
6. Cut the yarn and pull it through both stitches.

Use black yarn to embroider one dividing line, three small spots, and a tiny black head. Sew one ladybug near the lower edge of each cardigan front.

Dusty Pink Bow

Main Bow Strip

1. Using dusty pink yarn and 3 mm needles, CO 24 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 64: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. BO all 24 sts.

Join the cast-on and bind-off edges to form a ring. Flatten the ring with the seam centered at the back. Pinch the middle tightly and wrap it several times with matching yarn.

Bow Center

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 20: Knit every row.
3. BO all 8 sts.

Wrap the center strip around the pinched middle of the bow. Overlap the ends at the back and sew them together securely.

Bow Tails

Make two.

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 34: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. Row 35: Ssk, k12, k2tog. (14 sts)
4. Row 36: P14.
5. Row 37: Ssk, k10, k2tog. (12 sts)
6. Row 38: P12.
7. Row 39: Ssk, k8, k2tog. (10 sts)
8. Row 40: P10.
9. BO all 10 sts.

Sew the wide end of each tail behind the bow center. Angle the tails downward so they rest over the upper dress. Attach the key charm to the center using several strands of strong sewing thread.

Sage Sun Hat

The hat is worked from the center of the crown outward. A flexible brim gives the hat the relaxed garden style shown in the design.

1. Using sage yarn and 3 mm DPNs, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: K8.
3. Rnd 2: M1R in every stitch. (16 sts)
4. Rnd 3: K16.
5. Rnd 4: Rep k1, m1R around. (24 sts)
6. Rnd 5: K24.
7. Rnd 6: Rep k2, m1R around. (32 sts)
8. Rnd 7: K32.
9. Rnd 8: Rep k3, m1R around. (40 sts)
10. Rnd 9: K40.
11. Rnd 10: Rep k4, m1R around. (48 sts)
12. Rnd 11: K48.
13. Rnd 12: Rep k5, m1R around. (56 sts)
14. Rnd 13: K56.
15. Rnd 14: Rep k6, m1R around. (64 sts)
16. Rnds 15 to 29: K64.
17. Rnd 30: Rep k7, m1R around. (72 sts)
18. Rnd 31: P72.
19. Rnd 32: Rep k8, m1R around. (80 sts)
20. Rnd 33: K80.
21. Rnd 34: Rep k9, m1R around. (88 sts)
22. Rnd 35: K88.
23. Rnd 36: Rep k10, m1R around. (96 sts)
24. Rnds 37 to 42: Alternate one purl round and one knit round.
25. BO all 96 sts loosely.

Make a 20-inch twisted cord using two strands of honey-gold yarn. Wrap it around the base of the crown and tie a small bow at one side.

Cream Mary Jane Shoes

Make two shoes. Each shoe is created from a knitted sole, a picked-up upper section, and a separate strap.

Sole

1. Using cream yarn, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: K10.
3. Row 2: K1, m1R, k8, m1L, k1. (12 sts)
4. Rows 3 to 6: Knit every row.
5. Row 7: K1, m1R, k10, m1L, k1. (14 sts)
6. Rows 8 to 22: Knit every row.
7. Row 23: Ssk, k10, k2tog. (12 sts)
8. Rows 24 to 27: Knit every row.
9. Row 28: Ssk, k8, k2tog. (10 sts)
10. BO all 10 sts.

Shoe Upper

1. With the RS facing, pick up 52 sts evenly around the sole.
2. Rnds 1 to 5: K52.
3. Rnd 6: K15, rep k2tog 11 times, k15. (41 sts)
4. Rnd 7: K14, rep k2tog 6 times, k15. (35 sts)
5. Rnd 8: K13, rep k2tog 4 times, k14. (31 sts)
6. Rnds 9 to 11: K31.
7. BO all 31 sts loosely.

Shoe Strap

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 24: Knit every row.
3. BO all 6 sts.

Sew one end of the strap to the outer side of the shoe and the other end to the inner side. Place one tiny knitted daisy over the outer attachment point. Lightly stuff the toe before dressing the doll.

Honey-Gold Bee Shoulder Bag

Bag Body

1. Using honey-gold yarn and 3 mm DPNs, CO 32 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: P32.
3. Rnds 2 to 25: K32.
4. Rnd 26: P32.
5. BO all 32 sts.

Flatten the tube with the beginning-of-round marker at one side. Sew the cast-on edge closed to form the lower seam. Place a small rectangle of flexible plastic canvas inside if a firmer bag is desired.

Black Pocket

1. Using black yarn and 2.5 mm needles, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 7: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. Row 8: Ssk, k4, k2tog. (6 sts)
4. Row 9: P6.
5. Row 10: Ssk, k2, k2tog. (4 sts)
6. BO all 4 sts.

Sew the black pocket to the lower center of the bag front.

Bee Applique

1. Using yellow yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. Row 7: Ssk, k4, k2tog. (6 sts)
4. Row 8: P6.
5. Row 9: Ssk, k2, k2tog. (4 sts)
6. BO all 4 sts.

Use black yarn to embroider three horizontal stripes and two small antennae. Make two white wings by casting on 4 stitches, knitting 4 rows, then decreasing to 2 stitches. Sew the wings behind the bee and attach the bee above the pocket.

Shoulder Strap

1. Using two strands of honey-gold yarn, CO 4 sts on DPNs.
2. K4, slide the stitches to the opposite end of the needle without turning, and pull the yarn firmly across the back.
3. Repeat the four-stitch I-cord row until the strap measures 25 inches.
4. BO all 4 sts.

Sew one end of the strap to each upper side of the bag. Position the strap diagonally from the doll’s right shoulder to the left hip.

Blue Watering Can

Can Body

1. Using blue yarn, CO 32 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: P32.
3. Rnds 2 to 18: K32.
4. Rnd 19: Rep k2, k2tog around. (24 sts)
5. Rnd 20: Rep k1, k2tog around. (16 sts)
6. Rnd 21: K2tog around. (8 sts)
7. Cut the yarn, pull it through the remaining stitches, and secure.

Stuff the body lightly through the cast-on opening. Cut a small circular plastic-canvas base, insert it into the opening, and sew the lower edge closed.

Spout

1. CO 12 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1 to 22: K12.
3. Rnd 23: Rep k2, m1R around. (16 sts)
4. Rnds 24 to 27: K16.
5. BO all 16 sts.

Insert a padded flexible wire into the spout and bend it gently upward. Sew the narrow end to the lower side of the watering-can body.

Handle

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 46: Knit every row.
3. BO all 6 sts.

Wrap the knitted strip around a flexible wire. Sew the long edges together, then attach both ends to the upper back of the watering can.

Terracotta Plant Pot

1. Using terracotta yarn, CO 28 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1 to 4: Alternate one purl round and one knit round.
3. Rnds 5 to 16: K28.
4. Rnd 17: Rep k5, k2tog around. (24 sts)
5. Rnd 18: Rep k4, k2tog around. (20 sts)
6. Rnd 19: Rep k3, k2tog around. (16 sts)
7. Rnd 20: K2tog around. (8 sts)
8. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches.

Insert a small circle of plastic canvas into the bottom. Fill the pot with stuffing and cover the upper opening with a dark brown knitted soil circle.

Soil Circle

1. Using dark brown yarn, CO 6 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: M1R in every stitch. (12 sts)
3. Rnd 2: Rep k1, m1R around. (18 sts)
4. Rnd 3: Rep k2, m1R around. (24 sts)
5. BO all 24 sts.

Succulent Leaves

Make twelve leaves: four large, four medium, and four small.

Large Leaf

1. Using green yarn, CO 7 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. Row 7: Ssk, k3, k2tog. (5 sts)
4. Row 8: P5.
5. Row 9: Ssk, k1, k2tog. (3 sts)
6. Row 10: Slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over. (1 st)

Medium Leaf

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch.
3. Ssk, k2, k2tog. (4 sts)
4. P4.
5. K2tog twice. (2 sts)
6. Cut the yarn and pull it through both stitches.

Small Leaf

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Work 3 rows in stockinette stitch.
3. K2tog twice. (2 sts)
4. P2tog. (1 st)

Arrange the large leaves around the outer edge of the soil circle. Add the medium leaves inside the first layer and place the small leaves upright in the center. Sew through all layers several times to secure the plant.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew the head to the body using the 24 neck stitches as a guide. Pass the sewing yarn through the neck twice for additional strength.
2. Position the legs approximately 12 stitches apart on the lower body. Sew around each upper edge and reinforce the inner-leg attachment points.
3. Place the arms three rounds below the neck. Angle them slightly downward and forward.
4. Sew the tail to the lower back, approximately one inch to the doll’s left of the center seam.
5. Dress the doll in the sage dress, followed by the cream cardigan and shoes.
6. Attach the pink bow at the front of the neck, allowing the tails to overlap the dress bodice.
7. Place the bee bag strap over the right shoulder and position the bag at the left hip.
8. Use cream yarn to add a tiny highlight beneath each eye.
9. Use dark brown yarn to embroider three short eyelash stitches above the outer edge of each eye.
10. Add two tiny cream stitches beneath the mouth to emphasize the lower chin.
11. Brush the ear fibers gently with a clean pet slicker brush to create a soft fluffy appearance.

Care Notes

Keep the finished leopard away from open flames, high heat, and prolonged direct sunlight. The small key charm, safety eyes, and decorative accessories make this design more suitable as a collectible display toy than as an unsupervised toy for very young children.

Support the head and body when moving the doll. Avoid lifting it by the bow, bag strap, ears, arms, or tail because repeated pulling may loosen the attachment stitches.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Confirm that the head is centered securely over the body.
• Check that both eyes are level and firmly fastened.
• Make sure the muzzle pads contain equal amounts of stuffing.
• Confirm that the mouth line is centered beneath the nose.
• Check that both ears are positioned at matching heights.
• Verify that the dress hem hangs evenly around the body.
• Confirm that all six skirt daisies are firmly attached.
• Check that the cardigan sleeves are not twisted.
• Make sure the ladybug decorations face outward.
• Confirm that the shoe straps are secure.
• Check that the bee bag rests at the left hip.
• Make sure the key charm is stitched through several times.
• Remove every temporary marker and positioning pin.
• Trim and bury all loose yarn ends inside the work.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For routine care, remove surface dust with a soft dry brush. Brush in the direction of the knitted stitches and use very light pressure around the embroidered leopard markings, daisies, eyelashes, ladybugs, and bee applique.

Spot-clean small marks with a clean white cloth dampened with cool water and a tiny amount of mild detergent. Blot the area instead of rubbing it. Use a second damp cloth to remove detergent residue, then press the area gently with a dry towel.

Do not place the completed doll in a washing machine or tumble dryer. Machine agitation may distort the stuffed head, loosen the facial pieces, bend the watering-can supports, damage the charm, and cause the dress or cardigan to stretch unevenly.

When deeper cleaning is necessary, remove the hat, bag, watering can, and plant pot. Hand-wash removable fabric accessories separately in cool water. Reshape each piece while damp and allow it to dry flat on a clean towel.

Allow the leopard doll to air-dry in a well-ventilated room away from heaters and direct sunlight. Turn the doll occasionally so moisture does not remain trapped beneath the arms, around the neck, inside the shoes, or under the layered clothing.

For long-term storage, place the leopard in a breathable cotton storage bag. Keep the hat supported with acid-free tissue paper and avoid folding the brim. Store the watering can and plant pot beside the doll rather than pressing them against the knitted face or clothing.