Knitting Tutorial: Garden Spaniel Puppy in Leaf-Embroidered Dress with Vegetable Basket and Watering Can – Free Knitting Pattern.

This detailed knitting pattern creates a sweet garden spaniel puppy wearing a warm cream shirt, a beige pinafore dress embroidered with green leafy stems, brown flower sandals, and a backward green garden cap. The finished display also includes a crossbody satchel with a tiny ladybug charm, a knitted watering can, a vegetable basket, carrots, a purple beet, leafy greens, and a miniature Seed Guide book.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

The puppy is constructed from firmly knitted pieces that are stuffed and sewn together. The head, body, arms, legs, watering can, basket, vegetables, and cap crown are knitted in the round. Smaller decorative pieces are knitted flat.

The finished puppy measures approximately 15 inches tall from the bottom of the sandals to the top of the cap. The head is intentionally large, the body is softly pear-shaped, and the legs are short to reproduce the gentle toy-like proportions shown in the design.

• Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate
• Finished puppy height: Approximately 15 inches
• Head width: Approximately 6 inches
• Body height: Approximately 5 inches
• Dress length: Approximately 5 inches
• Construction: Mostly knitted in the round with several flat accessories
• US knitting terminology: Used throughout

Materials

• DK or light worsted-weight yarn in warm cream for the head, muzzle, body, arms, legs, and feet
• DK yarn in caramel tan for the facial patches, ears, and leg bands
• DK yarn in oatmeal beige for the pinafore dress
• DK yarn in medium green for the cap and leaf embroidery
• DK yarn in bright red for the cap strap and ladybug
• DK yarn in brown for the sandals, sandal soles, buckles, and satchel
• DK yarn in taupe-gray for the watering can
• DK yarn in basket beige for the vegetable basket
• Small amounts of white and yellow yarn for daisies
• Small amounts of orange, purple, and leafy green yarn for vegetables
• Small amount of pale pink yarn for the cheeks
• Small amount of black yarn for facial outlining and ladybug details
• Small amount of muted blue yarn for the Seed Guide book details
• Pair of 3.25 mm knitting needles
• Set of 3.25 mm double-pointed needles or a circular needle for magic loop
• Pair of 2.75 mm needles for the small flowers and ladybug
• Two 20 mm dark brown or black safety eyes
• One 10 mm wooden or brown button for the satchel
• Two small brown buttons for the sandal buckles, or embroidered button knots
• Polyester fiberfill
• Blunt yarn needle
• Stitch markers
• Row counter
• Locking stitch markers or contrasting waste yarn
• Optional pipe cleaners for reinforcing the watering-can spout and basket handle
• Optional non-toxic pink textile blush for softly shading the cheeks

Gauge

Using 3.25 mm needles, work 26 stitches and 36 rows in stockinette stitch to measure 4 inches square. The knitting should be tight enough that the stuffing does not show between the stitches.

Gauge is more important than the exact yarn label. Change needle size when necessary to produce a firm, smooth fabric. All finished measurements assume the stated gauge.

Abbreviations

• BO: Bind off
• CO: Cast on
• DPN: Double-pointed needle
• Inc: Increase
• Dec: Decrease
• K: Knit
• P: Purl
• K2tog: Knit two stitches together
• SSK: Slip one stitch knitwise twice, then knit the slipped stitches together
• Kfb: Knit into the front and back of the same stitch
• M1L: Make one left increase
• M1R: Make one right increase
• RS: Right side
• WS: Wrong side
• St or sts: Stitch or stitches
• Rnd or rnds: Round or rounds
• Sl: Slip
• Rep: Repeat

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Important Construction Notes

• Stuff all pieces gradually. Small pinches of stuffing create a smoother result than inserting one large amount.
• Place the beginning-of-round marker at the back of each body part unless another position is specified.
• Use mattress stitch for vertical seams and whipstitch for attaching shaped pieces.
• Keep the head firm, but leave the lower neck area slightly softer so it can be shaped around the body neck.
• The dress, cap, satchel, sandals, and garden accessories are removable only when you add snaps instead of permanently sewing them in place.
• Safety eyes are not suitable for children younger than three years. Embroider the eyes when making the puppy for a small child.

Puppy Head

Use warm cream yarn and 3.25 mm DPNs. The head begins at the top and is knitted downward. The finished head should be broad through the cheeks and gently flattened at the lower front.

1. Rnd 1: CO 8 sts. Divide evenly across the needles and join without twisting. Place the marker at the back.
2. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st around. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Repeat K1, kfb around. 24 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Repeat K2, kfb around. 32 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Repeat K3, kfb around. 40 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Repeat K4, kfb around. 48 sts.
7. Rnd 7: Repeat K5, kfb around. 56 sts.
8. Rnd 8: Repeat K6, kfb around. 64 sts.
9. Rnds 9-25: K all 64 sts.
10. Rnd 26: Repeat K6, k2tog around. 56 sts.
11. Rnd 27: Repeat K5, k2tog around. 48 sts.
12. Rnd 28: Repeat K4, k2tog around. 40 sts.
13. Rnd 29: Repeat K3, k2tog around. 32 sts.
14. Insert the safety eyes after positioning the facial patches as described below. Begin stuffing firmly.
15. Rnd 30: Repeat K2, k2tog around. 24 sts.
16. Rnd 31: Repeat K1, k2tog around. 16 sts.
17. Add enough stuffing to create a rounded forehead and full cheeks. Do not form a pointed chin.
18. Rnd 32: K2tog around. 8 sts.
19. Cut the yarn, thread through the remaining sts, pull closed, and secure inside the head.

Tan Eye Patches

Make two patches with caramel tan yarn. These pieces create the spaniel markings that angle from the forehead toward the outside of each eye.

First Eye Patch

1. Row 1: CO 6 sts. K6.
2. Row 2: P6.
3. Row 3: Kfb, k4, kfb. 8 sts.
4. Row 4: P8.
5. Row 5: Kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
6. Row 6: P10.
7. Row 7: Kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
8. Rows 8-13: Work in stockinette stitch on 12 sts.
9. Row 14: SSK, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
10. Row 15: P10.
11. Row 16: SSK, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
12. Row 17: P8.
13. Row 18: SSK, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
14. Row 19: P6.
15. Row 20: SSK, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
16. BO the remaining 4 sts.

Make the second patch in the same way. Block both patches gently. Place them diagonally so the wider ends sit near the upper sides of the forehead and the narrow ends finish beside the muzzle.

Position the inner edge of each patch approximately four stitches from the center-front line. Leave a cream stripe approximately eight stitches wide between the two patches at the forehead.

Eyes and Eye Outlining

Insert each 20 mm safety eye through its tan patch and through the cream head. Place the eye centers approximately 14 stitches apart and between head rounds 17 and 18.

Before locking the washers, check that both eyes face forward rather than outward. Attach the washers inside the head. Use black yarn to work one curved backstitch line above each eye and two small stitches at the outer corners.

With cream yarn, add one tiny stitch beneath the lower inner edge of each eye. This lifts the lower eyelid and creates the round, gentle expression visible in the finished puppy.

Dimensional Muzzle Pads

Make two matching muzzle pads with warm cream yarn. Knit them flat and place them side by side below the eyes.

1. Row 1: CO 8 sts. K8.
2. Row 2: P8.
3. Row 3: Kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
4. Row 4: P10.
5. Row 5: Kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
6. Row 6: P12.
7. Row 7: Kfb, k10, kfb. 14 sts.
8. Rows 8-12: Work in stockinette stitch on 14 sts.
9. Row 13: SSK, k10, k2tog. 12 sts.
10. Row 14: P12.
11. Row 15: SSK, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
12. Row 16: P10.
13. Row 17: SSK, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
14. BO all 8 sts.

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Gather lightly around each pad with a running stitch. Add a small amount of stuffing and place the two pads between head rounds 20 and 29. Their inner edges should touch at the center.

Sew each pad around its outer edge. Keep the upper edges immediately beneath the eyes. The lower edges should curve downward to create a broad spaniel muzzle rather than a narrow snout.

Nose and Mouth

Use tan yarn and 2.75 mm needles for the small nose.

1. Row 1: CO 7 sts. K7.
2. Row 2: P7.
3. Row 3: SSK, k3, k2tog. 5 sts.
4. Row 4: P5.
5. Row 5: SSK, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
6. Pass the yarn through the 3 remaining sts and pull together.

Sew the cast-on edge across the meeting point of the muzzle pads. The pointed end should face downward. Add two horizontal satin stitches across the top to form the rounded triangular nose.

With dark brown yarn, work one straight stitch downward from the nose for approximately three knitted rows. Add two diagonal stitches from the bottom of that line to create a small inverted Y-shaped mouth.

Cheek Blush

Use pale pink yarn to create one oval on each muzzle pad. Work six loose horizontal satin stitches over an area approximately six stitches wide and four rows high.

Place the blush toward the outer half of each muzzle pad. Use a yarn needle to separate the fibers slightly, producing a soft shaded appearance without covering the cream knitting completely.

Floppy Spaniel Ears

Make two ears with caramel tan yarn. The ears are lightly stuffed near the upper attachment and textured with loops along the outer surface.

1. Row 1: CO 10 sts. K10.
2. Row 2: P10.
3. Row 3: Kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
4. Row 4: P12.
5. Row 5: Kfb, k10, kfb. 14 sts.
6. Row 6: P14.
7. Row 7: Kfb, k12, kfb. 16 sts.
8. Rows 8-25: Work in stockinette stitch on 16 sts.
9. Row 26: SSK, k12, k2tog. 14 sts.
10. Row 27: P14.
11. Row 28: SSK, k10, k2tog. 12 sts.
12. Row 29: P12.
13. Row 30: SSK, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
14. Row 31: P10.
15. Row 32: SSK, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
16. Row 33: P8.
17. Row 34: SSK, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
18. BO all 6 sts.

Fold each ear lengthwise with the wrong sides together. Seam around the sides and lower tip. Place a very thin layer of stuffing in the upper third only.

To create the shaggy fringe, cut tan yarn into 4-inch lengths. Attach two strands through every second edge stitch along both long sides of each ear. Fold each strand in half and secure it with a lark’s-head knot.

Trim the fringe to approximately 1 inch near the upper ear and 1.5 inches near the widest lower section. Gently separate the yarn plies with a blunt needle for a fluffy spaniel texture.

Pin the cast-on edge of each ear between head rounds 12 and 18. Angle the upper edge backward approximately 20 degrees. Sew securely while allowing the lower portion to hang freely beside the cheeks.

Puppy Body

Use warm cream yarn. The body forms the hidden base under the shirt and pinafore dress.

1. Rnd 1: CO 24 sts. Join in the round and place the marker at the center back.
2. Rnd 2: Repeat K2, kfb around. 32 sts.
3. Rnd 3: K all 32 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Repeat K3, kfb around. 40 sts.
5. Rnds 5-13: K all 40 sts.
6. Rnd 14: Repeat K4, kfb around. 48 sts.
7. Rnds 15-26: K all 48 sts.
8. Rnd 27: Repeat K4, k2tog around. 40 sts.
9. Rnd 28: Repeat K3, k2tog around. 32 sts.
10. Rnd 29: Repeat K2, k2tog around. 24 sts.
11. Stuff the neck firmly and the lower body moderately.
12. Rnd 30: Repeat K1, k2tog around. 16 sts.
13. Rnd 31: K2tog around. 8 sts.
14. Cut the yarn, draw through the remaining stitches, and close.

Shape the body into a soft pear shape. The upper body should remain narrow enough for the pinafore bib, while the lower body should fill the skirt gently.

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Arms and Cream Shirt Sleeves

Make two identical arms. Each arm is knitted in one piece so the visible cream section resembles a long shirt sleeve ending in a rounded paw.

1. Rnd 1: CO 8 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Repeat K3, kfb around. 20 sts.
4. Rnds 4-15: K all 20 sts.
5. Rnd 16: P all 20 sts to create the subtle sleeve-cuff ridge.
6. Rnd 17: K all 20 sts.
7. Rnd 18: Repeat K3, k2tog around. 16 sts.
8. Rnds 19-27: K all 16 sts.
9. Stuff the paw firmly and the upper sleeve lightly.
10. Flatten the upper opening so eight stitches sit on the front and eight on the back.
11. BO the two layers together by knitting one stitch from each needle at the same time.

Sew the arms to the body between body rounds 5 and 10. Angle each arm downward approximately 15 degrees. The lower paws should finish near the lower third of the dress.

Legs and Feet

Make two legs using warm cream yarn. Add the caramel tan stocking band where indicated.

1. Rnd 1: CO 8 sts in cream. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Repeat K1, kfb around. 24 sts.
4. Rnds 4-10: K all 24 sts.
5. Rnd 11: Repeat K4, k2tog around. 20 sts.
6. Rnds 12-18: K all 20 sts.
7. Rnds 19-21: Change to caramel tan and K all 20 sts.
8. Rnd 22: Change back to cream and K all 20 sts.
9. Rnds 23-31: K all 20 sts.
10. Rnd 32: Repeat K3, k2tog around. 16 sts.
11. Stuff the foot firmly and the upper leg moderately.
12. Flatten the upper opening and BO the two layers together.

Shape the first ten rounds into an oval foot measuring approximately 2.25 inches long. Make sure the beginning-of-round seam sits on the inner side of each leg.

Sew the legs beneath the body approximately eight stitches apart. Keep them parallel so the puppy stands evenly. The feet should point directly forward.

Brown Sandal Soles

Make four sole pieces in brown yarn, two for each sandal. The double layer creates a firm outlined base.

1. Row 1: CO 8 sts. K8.
2. Row 2: Kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
3. Row 3: K10.
4. Row 4: Kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
5. Rows 5-18: K all 12 sts.
6. Row 19: SSK, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
7. Row 20: K10.
8. Row 21: SSK, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
9. Row 22: K8, then BO.

Place two sole pieces together for each foot and seam around the edge. Insert a thin piece of craft felt or plastic canvas between the layers when a firmer display base is desired.

Position each cream foot centrally over a sole. Sew around the lower edge of the foot with cream yarn, leaving an even brown border of approximately one knitted stitch.

Sandal Toe Straps

Make two straps in brown yarn.

1. CO 5 sts.
2. K every row for 22 rows.
3. BO all 5 sts.

Place each strap across the top of a foot between foot rounds 5 and 8. Sew one end to each side of the sole. Keep the center loose enough to curve over the cream foot.

Sandal Ankle Straps

Make two ankle straps in brown yarn.

1. CO 4 sts.
2. K every row for 30 rows.
3. BO all 4 sts.

Wrap one strap around each leg immediately above the foot. Cross the outer end over the front at a slight diagonal and secure it beside the ankle.

Sew one small brown button to the outer side of each strap. Alternatively, create a compact French knot using four wraps of brown yarn.

White Sandal Daisies

Make two daisies using 2.75 mm needles. Each flower has five white petals and a yellow center.

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Petals

1. CO 3 sts in white.
2. Row 1: K3.
3. Row 2: Kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
4. Row 3: K5.
5. Row 4: SSK, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
6. Row 5: Slip 1, k2tog, pass the slipped stitch over. 1 st.
7. Cut the yarn and pull through the final stitch.

Make ten petals. Arrange five petals in a circle for each flower. Sew their narrow ends together. Add a yellow French knot containing five wraps at the flower center.

Sew one daisy toward the outer side of each toe strap. Keep the petals flat and angle the flower slightly toward the front.

Leaf-Embroidered Pinafore Skirt

Use oatmeal beige yarn. The skirt is knitted from the lower hem upward in the round. It has a wide lower edge, a gently tapered waist, and a neat garter-stitch border.

1. Rnd 1: CO 72 sts. Join in the round and place the marker at the center back.
2. Rnd 2: P all 72 sts.
3. Rnd 3: K all 72 sts.
4. Rnd 4: P all 72 sts.
5. Rnd 5: K all 72 sts.
6. Rnds 6-12: K all 72 sts.
7. Rnd 13: Repeat K7, k2tog around. 64 sts.
8. Rnds 14-21: K all 64 sts.
9. Rnd 22: Repeat K6, k2tog around. 56 sts.
10. Rnds 23-31: K all 56 sts.
11. Rnd 32: P all 56 sts.
12. Rnd 33: K all 56 sts.
13. Rnd 34: P all 56 sts.
14. BO all sts loosely in knit.

The lower garter border should remain visible and slightly rounded. Place the center-back marker directly behind the puppy before attaching the front and back bibs.

Front Pinafore Bib

Use oatmeal beige yarn and knit flat.

1. Row 1: CO 30 sts. K30.
2. Rows 2-4: K all 30 sts.
3. Row 5: K30.
4. Row 6: K3, p24, k3.
5. Row 7: K30.
6. Row 8: K3, p24, k3.
7. Row 9: K3, ssk, k20, k2tog, k3. 28 sts.
8. Row 10: K3, p22, k3.
9. Row 11: K28.
10. Row 12: K3, p22, k3.
11. Row 13: K3, ssk, k18, k2tog, k3. 26 sts.
12. Row 14: K3, p20, k3.
13. Row 15: K26.
14. Row 16: K3, p20, k3.
15. Row 17: K3, ssk, k16, k2tog, k3. 24 sts.
16. Row 18: K3, p18, k3.
17. Rows 19, 21, 23, 25, and 27: K24.
18. Rows 20, 22, 24, 26, and 28: K3, p18, k3.
19. BO all 24 sts.

Sew the cast-on edge of the bib to the upper front edge of the skirt. Center it over 30 skirt stitches.

Back Pinafore Bib

1. Row 1: CO 26 sts. K26.
2. Rows 2-4: K all 26 sts.
3. Row 5: K26.
4. Row 6: K3, p20, k3.
5. Rows 7-18: Continue in stockinette stitch while knitting the first and last 3 sts on every row.
6. Row 19: K3, ssk, k16, k2tog, k3. 24 sts.
7. Row 20: K3, p18, k3.
8. Rows 21-24: Continue in pattern on 24 sts.
9. BO all 24 sts.

Sew the cast-on edge to the center back of the skirt. Leave approximately one inch between the side edges of the front and back bibs to reveal the cream shirt beneath the arms.

Pinafore Shoulder Straps

Make two straps with oatmeal beige yarn.

1. CO 6 sts.
2. K every row for 42 rows.
3. BO all 6 sts.

Sew one end of each strap to the upper corners of the front bib. Pass the straps over the shoulders and attach them to the upper corners of the back bib.

Place the straps approximately 1.5 inches apart at the front. They should frame the lower neck without pressing against the head.

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Green Leaf Embroidery

Use medium green yarn and a blunt yarn needle. Work the embroidery after completing the skirt but before dressing the puppy.

Place one tall stem at the center front, two medium stems approximately eight stitches from the center, and two shorter stems approximately fifteen stitches from the center.

1. For the center stem, begin two rows above the lower garter border and work a vertical chain-stitch line over 22 rows.
2. Add leaf pairs at 4, 8, 12, 16, and 20 rows above the hem.
3. Each leaf is formed with three diagonal satin stitches spanning two knitted stitches horizontally and three rows vertically.
4. Angle the left leaves upward to the left and the right leaves upward to the right.
5. For each medium stem, work a chain-stitch line over 18 rows and add four leaf pairs at four-row intervals.
6. For each short outer stem, work a chain-stitch line over 13 rows and add three leaf pairs.
7. Add one smaller sprig beside each outer stem using a seven-row stem and two leaf pairs.

Keep the embroidery tension relaxed so the skirt does not pucker. The leaves should remain narrow and pointed, resembling young garden shoots rather than broad flower petals.

Backward Green Garden Cap

Use medium green yarn. The cap is knitted from the top downward. The red adjustable strap and front-facing opening create the backward baseball-cap appearance.

1. Rnd 1: CO 8 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Repeat K1, kfb around. 24 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Repeat K2, kfb around. 32 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Repeat K3, kfb around. 40 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Repeat K4, kfb around. 48 sts.
7. Rnd 7: Repeat K5, kfb around. 56 sts.
8. Rnd 8: Repeat K6, kfb around. 64 sts.
9. Rnd 9: Repeat K7, kfb around. 72 sts.
10. Rnds 10-20: K all 72 sts.
11. Rnd 21: BO the next 20 sts, then K52. Turn. The remaining section is worked flat.
12. Row 22: P52.
13. Row 23: SSK, k48, k2tog. 50 sts.
14. Row 24: P50.
15. Row 25: SSK, k46, k2tog. 48 sts.
16. Rows 26-31: Work in stockinette stitch on 48 sts.
17. Rows 32-35: K every row to create the lower band.
18. BO all 48 sts loosely.

Place the 20-stitch opening at the front of the puppy’s forehead. The opening should reveal a narrow section of the cream head above the red strap.

Red Adjustable Cap Strap

1. Using red yarn, CO 30 sts.
2. K every row for 7 rows.
3. BO all 30 sts.

Sew one end behind each side of the cap opening. The strap should cross the forehead horizontally without covering the eyes.

With green or tan yarn, embroider five small vertical stitches evenly across the strap to resemble adjustment holes. Space the stitches approximately four knitted stitches apart.

Cap Brim

The cap is worn backward, so the small brim sits behind the head.

1. Using green yarn, CO 28 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: K28.
3. Row 5: SSK, k24, k2tog. 26 sts.
4. Rows 6-7: K26.
5. Row 8: SSK, k22, k2tog. 24 sts.
6. Rows 9-10: K24.
7. Row 11: SSK, k20, k2tog. 22 sts.
8. Row 12: K22, then BO.

Fold the brim in half lengthwise and seam the side and front edges. Sew its cast-on edge to the lower back of the cap, directly opposite the red strap.

White Cap Flowers

Make two small flowers using the sandal-daisy petal instructions. Use five petals for each flower and one small yellow French knot at the center.

Sew one flower near each side of the cap. Place them approximately three rounds above the lower edge and slightly forward of the ears.

Crossbody Garden Satchel

Use brown or taupe-brown yarn. The satchel hangs at the puppy’s right hip and has a textured body, rounded flap, shoulder strap, wooden button, and ladybug charm.

Satchel Body

1. Row 1: CO 24 sts. K24.
2. Row 2: Repeat K1, p1 across.
3. Row 3: Repeat P1, k1 across.
4. Rows 4-30: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, ending after Row 30.
5. Rows 31-34: K all 24 sts.
6. BO all 24 sts.

Fold the rectangle so the lower cast-on edge meets the start of the four-row garter section. Sew both side edges. The remaining garter section forms the beginning of the flap.

Satchel Flap

1. Pick up and knit 24 sts across the upper back edge of the bag.
2. Rows 1-5: K24.
3. Row 6: SSK, k20, k2tog. 22 sts.
4. Rows 7-8: K22.
5. Row 9: SSK, k18, k2tog. 20 sts.
6. Rows 10-11: K20.
7. Row 12: SSK, k16, k2tog. 18 sts.
8. Rows 13-14: K18.
9. BO all 18 sts.

Sew the wooden button to the front center of the bag. Create a small yarn loop beneath the flap edge so the flap can close over the button.

Satchel Strap

1. CO 4 sts.
2. K every row for 116 rows.
3. BO all 4 sts.

Sew one end to each upper side of the satchel. Place the strap over the puppy’s left shoulder so the bag rests against the right side of the skirt.

Tiny Ladybug Charm

Use red and black yarn with 2.75 mm needles.

1. Rnd 1: CO 6 sts in red. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st. 12 sts.
3. Rnds 3-5: K all 12 sts.
4. Rnd 6: K2tog around. 6 sts.
5. Add a tiny pinch of stuffing.
6. Cut the yarn and draw through the remaining sts.

With black yarn, embroider one straight line along the center of the red back. Add three French-knot spots on each side.

Wrap black yarn around one end four times to form the head. Attach the ladybug to the lower outer corner of the satchel with two secure stitches.

Knitted Watering Can

Use taupe-gray yarn. The finished watering can measures approximately 3.25 inches high and is lightly stuffed so it keeps its shape.

Watering Can Body

1. Rnd 1: CO 6 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Repeat K1, kfb around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Repeat K2, kfb around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Repeat K3, kfb around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Repeat K4, kfb around. 36 sts.
7. Rnd 7: P all 36 sts to define the bottom edge.
8. Rnds 8-25: K all 36 sts.
9. Rnd 26: P all 36 sts.
10. Rnd 27: Repeat K4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
11. Rnd 28: Repeat K3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
12. Stuff the body lightly and evenly.
13. Rnd 29: Repeat K2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
14. Rnd 30: Repeat K1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
15. Rnd 31: K2tog around. 6 sts.
16. Draw closed and secure.

Top Opening Rim

1. CO 32 sts in taupe-gray yarn.
2. K every row for 5 rows.
3. BO all 32 sts.

Join the short ends to form a ring. Sew the ring around the upper portion of the can between body rounds 23 and 26. Shape it into a slightly raised oval rim.

Watering Can Spout

1. CO 6 sts on one DPN.
2. K6. Do not turn.
3. Slide the sts to the opposite end of the needle, pull the yarn firmly across the back, and K6 again.
4. Continue the six-stitch I-cord for 28 rows.
5. BO all 6 sts.

Insert a narrow pipe cleaner when the watering can is intended for display. Bend the spout upward gently. Sew one end to the lower side of the can at body rounds 9-14.

Spout Rose

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rnd 1: Kfb in every st. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 2: K all 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Repeat K2, k2tog around. 12 sts.
5. BO all 12 sts.

Gather the bound-off edge slightly to create a shallow disk. Sew the center over the free end of the spout. Add four small dark-gray French knots to suggest water holes.

Watering Can Handle

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Work four-stitch I-cord for 58 rows.
3. BO all 4 sts.

Curve the handle over the top of the can. Sew one end near the upper back and the other end near the lower back. The finished arch should rise approximately 2.25 inches above the can.

Vegetable Basket

Use basket-beige yarn. The basket has a flat circular base, seed-stitch sides, and a rounded handle.

1. Rnd 1: CO 8 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Repeat K1, kfb around. 24 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Repeat K2, kfb around. 32 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Repeat K3, kfb around. 40 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Repeat K4, kfb around. 48 sts.
7. Rnd 7: P all 48 sts to form the base fold.
8. Rnd 8: Repeat K1, p1 around.
9. Rnd 9: Repeat P1, k1 around.
10. Rnds 10-23: Repeat Rnds 8 and 9.
11. Rnd 24: K all 48 sts.
12. Rnd 25: P all 48 sts.
13. Rnd 26: K all 48 sts.
14. BO all 48 sts loosely.

Place a small circular piece of felt inside the basket base. Tack it in place through several stitches to keep the basket upright.

Basket Handle

1. CO 5 sts.
2. Work five-stitch I-cord for 76 rows.
3. BO all 5 sts.

Sew one end of the handle to each side of the basket. Reinforce each attachment with at least six whipstitches.

Knitted Carrots

Make two orange carrots. The first carrot uses the full instructions. For the second carrot, stop after Round 13 to make it slightly shorter.

1. Rnd 1: CO 4 sts in orange. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st. 8 sts.
3. Rnd 3: K all 8 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Repeat K1, kfb around. 12 sts.
5. Rnds 5-8: K all 12 sts.
6. Rnd 9: Repeat K1, k2tog around. 8 sts.
7. Rnds 10-13: K all 8 sts.
8. Rnd 14: K2tog around. 4 sts.
9. Add a tiny amount of stuffing.
10. Draw through the remaining sts and close.

Carrot Leaves

For each carrot, cut five green strands measuring 4 inches each. Fold the strands in half and pull the folded centers through the carrot’s wide upper edge.

Pass the loose ends through the folded loops and tighten. Trim the leaves to approximately 1.25 inches.

Purple Beet

1. Rnd 1: CO 6 sts in purple. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Repeat K1, kfb around. 18 sts.
4. Rnds 4-8: K all 18 sts.
5. Rnd 9: Repeat K1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
6. Stuff lightly.
7. Rnd 10: K2tog around. 6 sts.
8. Draw closed.

For the beet root, attach a 3-inch purple strand to the closed lower end and knot it. Trim the strand to one inch.

Add four green leafy strands at the upper center using the same method as the carrot leaves. Include one darker green strand for variation.

Leafy Garden Greens

Make six narrow leaves using two shades of green.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1: K3.
3. Row 2: Kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
4. Rows 3-6: K5.
5. Row 7: SSK, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
6. Row 8: Slip 1, k2tog, pass the slipped stitch over. 1 st.
7. Cut the yarn and pull through.

Gather the cast-on edges of three leaves together to form one green bunch. Make two bunches and place them behind the carrots and beet inside the basket.

Miniature Seed Guide Book

The book has a beige embroidered cover, pale pages, and a muted blue back cover.

Front Cover

1. Using pale beige yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. K every row for 28 rows.
3. BO all 20 sts.

Back Cover

1. Using muted blue yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. K every row for 28 rows.
3. BO all 20 sts.

Pages

1. Using cream yarn, CO 18 sts.
2. K every row for 24 rows.
3. BO all 18 sts.
4. Make four identical page pieces.

Stack the four page pieces together. Place the beige cover on top and the blue cover beneath. Sew through all layers along one short edge to create the spine.

With dark gray yarn, embroider the words SEED GUIDE across the upper half of the beige cover. Use compact backstitches, keeping each letter approximately two stitches wide and three rows high.

Below the words, embroider one green stem with two leaves. Add one tiny pink French knot beside the stem and one small orange stitch beneath it.

Joining the Head and Body

Place the body neck opening against the center of the closed lower head. The body should meet the head approximately two rounds behind the lowest point of the muzzle.

Use doubled cream yarn. Sew around the neck twice with small whipstitches. Add more stuffing through a temporary opening when the neck bends too easily.

The puppy’s head should remain upright with a slight forward tilt of approximately five degrees. Do not tilt the face backward.

Dressing the Puppy

1. Slide the pinafore skirt upward over the legs and lower body.
2. Position the skirt’s center-back marker directly behind the puppy.
3. Bring the front bib up over the chest and the back bib up behind the shoulders.
4. Lay the straps smoothly over the shoulders.
5. Tack the skirt waistband to the body at the center front, center back, and both side seams.
6. Use oatmeal yarn and take small stitches hidden beneath the garter waistband.
7. Place the cap over the head with the red strap centered above the eyes.
8. Bring the ears outside the cap so they hang freely beneath its side edges.
9. Place the satchel strap over the left shoulder and position the bag at the right hip.

Exact Placement Guide

• Eye centers: Between head rounds 17 and 18, approximately 14 stitches apart
• Muzzle pads: Between head rounds 20 and 29
• Nose center: At the meeting point of the two muzzle pads
• Ear tops: Between head rounds 12 and 18
• Arm tops: Between body rounds 5 and 10
• Leg spacing: Approximately eight body stitches between the inner leg edges
• Dress hem: Approximately one inch above the tan stocking bands
• Satchel: Resting against the puppy’s right lower hip
• Cap flowers: One on each side, approximately three rounds above the lower cap edge
• Sandal flowers: On the outer front area of each toe strap

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the puppy from the front, back, and both sides before securing the final yarn ends. Adjust the stuffing through the knitted fabric with a blunt needle so both cheeks, feet, and body sides appear even.

• Confirm that the cream forehead stripe is centered.
• Check that the eyes are level and face forward.
• Shape the muzzle into two equal rounded sections.
• Trim both ear fringes to matching lengths.
• Secure the cap without flattening the ears.
• Keep the dress embroidery centered at the front.
• Hide every yarn tail inside the nearest stuffed piece.

Care Notes

Keep the finished puppy away from open flames, strong direct sunlight, pets, and damp surfaces. The watering can, basket, book, and vegetables contain small parts and should be treated as decorative accessories.

For a child-safe version, omit buttons, safety eyes, internal wire, plastic inserts, and loose decorative charms. Embroider all facial features and attach every accessory permanently.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The puppy stands evenly on both double-layer sandal soles.
• The head is firmly attached and does not rotate loosely.
• The ears hang at matching heights.
• The red cap strap is centered above the face.
• The pinafore straps lie flat over the shoulders.
• The green leaf stems are balanced across the skirt.
• The satchel button and ladybug are securely attached.
• The vegetable basket contains two carrots, one beet, leafy greens, and a stable handle.
• The watering-can spout and handle are firmly sewn.
• No stuffing or loose yarn ends remain visible.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Remove loose accessories before cleaning. Gently surface-clean the puppy with a soft white cloth dampened with cool water and a small amount of mild detergent.

Blot the cleaned area with a second damp cloth. Do not twist, scrub, bleach, machine wash, tumble dry, or immerse pieces containing cardboard, felt, buttons, safety eyes, or internal reinforcement.

Reshape the head, muzzle, ears, dress, cap, and feet while damp. Allow every piece to air-dry completely on a clean towel away from direct heat.

Store the set upright in a breathable container. Place acid-free tissue around the cap brim, watering-can handle, basket handle, and ear fringe to preserve their shape during long-term storage.