Calendula Sun-Salve Apothecary Caravan – Crochet

This cozy apothecary caravan brings a market-day “handmade shop” vibe to your shelf, with tiny jars, a warm stove, and sweet woodland helpers. If you love browsing for amigurumi supplies, miniature crochet hooks, and cotton yarn bundles, this project is the perfect reason to stock up and create something unforgettable.

Inside the open-side caravan, you’ll build a complete little world: shelves of labeled salves, a tea set, a bed with a flower pillow, gingham blanket, and even potted plants. It pairs beautifully with dollhouse accessories, mini storage jars, and craft organization finds if you enjoy shopping for tiny props.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview

You will crochet a soft, open-side caravan with rounded corners and a tall curved roof. The interior is an apothecary shop scene with a shelf cabinet, a counter table, a stove with kettle, a bed nook with curtains, and multiple mini props. Two characters complete the scene: a fox apothecary and a small cat assistant.

This design uses several hook sizes so the smallest items keep crisp shape and scale. The caravan body is worked tighter with a larger hook, while jars and tools use a smaller hook for detail. Keep stitch tension firm and consistent. When in doubt, size down a hook to avoid gaps.

Finished Size

Caravan base footprint (including front “mat”): about 9–11 in wide and 7–9 in deep, depending on yarn and tension.
Caravan height with roof: about 7–8.5 in.
Fox character: about 4.5–5.5 in tall.
Cat character: about 3–4 in tall.

Skill Level

Confident beginner to intermediate (many small parts, simple shaping).
Basic sewing and embroidery required.
Comfortable changing colors and working tight amigurumi fabric.

Materials

Choose smooth yarn so labels and tiny edges read clearly. The sample look matches matte cotton or cotton-blend yarn in warm neutrals and calendula tones. Use stuffing that holds shape firmly, especially for the roof, walls, and characters.

Yarn (DK/light worsted cotton preferred):
- Warm cream (main caravan)
- Mustard / golden yellow (trim, accents, rug)
- Rust / terracotta (fox, sign border, small accents)
- White (fox muzzle, tiny labels background if desired)
- Dark brown (shelves, stool legs, jar lids)
- Light brown / taupe (tables, crate, umbrella stand)
- Gray / charcoal (stove body)
- Sage green (scarf, plants, watering cart leaves)
- Orange (calendula blossoms)
- Green gingham tones (blanket squares)
Hooks (use what matches your yarn; these sizes match the pictured scale):
- 3.0 mm for caravan body panels and roof
- 2.5 mm for furniture (tables, shelves, bed frame)
- 2.0 mm for mini props (jars, cups, kettles, tools, sign, plants)
- 1.75 mm for the tiniest details (labels, droppers, tiny handles) if needed
Fiberfill stuffing
Plastic canvas sheet or thin craft foam (for roof and wall stiffening)
Small magnets or snap fasteners (optional, for removable accessories)
Safety eyes: 6 mm for fox, 5 mm for cat (or embroider eyes)
Embroidery floss: black, brown, cream, and mustard
Stitch markers, yarn needle, scissors
Fabric glue (optional, for tiny labels)

Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms)

MR = magic ring
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
dec = decrease (invisible decrease recommended)
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
blo = back loop only
flo = front loop only
st(s) = stitch(es)
rnd = round
row = row

General Notes for Accuracy

Work amigurumi pieces in continuous spirals unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker to track rounds. Keep stuffing firm but not stretched. For the caravan shell, aim for a dense fabric so the walls stand neatly and the roof curve holds its clean arc.

For mini props, crochet even tighter than usual. If you see gaps between stitches, switch down a hook. Many items in this scene are tiny cylinders and shallow bowls. Their crisp silhouettes are what make the apothecary feel “real” at miniature scale.

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Color Palette Key

Caravan Cream: main shell and floor
Calendula Gold: rug, trim, sunflower pillow center, small highlights
Rust: fox hat and coat accents, sign border accents
Wood Brown: shelves and furniture
Charcoal: stove
Sage: scarf and plants
Gingham Greens: bed blanket

Part 1: Caravan Base Platform and Front Mat

Base Platform (3.0 mm hook)

The caravan sits on a thick, crocheted base that extends forward like a display mat. The interior floor area is slightly raised behind the front edge. Build this as a firm rectangle, then add a subtle lip where the caravan walls will attach.

With Caravan Cream, ch 46 (adjust length to your preferred width). Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (45).
Ch 1, turn. Work sc in each st across for 24–28 rows to form a sturdy rectangle.
Do not fasten off. Work sc evenly around the entire rectangle, placing 3 sc in each corner.
Work 2 more rounds of sc around for thickness. Keep corners squared but not flared.

Create a “wall placement line” by working one round in blo only around the back and sides of the rectangle, stopping before the front mat area. This forms a hinge line that helps the walls sit upright. Mark the interior floor boundary with stitch markers so the walls align cleanly.

Front Mat Edge (Calendula Gold trim)

Attach Calendula Gold to the front edge only.
Work 1 round of sc along the front mat perimeter.
Add a final round of sl st to smooth the edge.

Part 2: Caravan Side Walls (Open-Side / Cutaway)

Left Wall with Sign Post Area (3.0 mm hook)

The left side wall is tall and rounded at the top corners. It includes a small area on the front-left exterior where the “Herbal Salve” sign hangs. Build as a firm panel, then add a rounded top edge and a slight thickness border.

With Caravan Cream, ch 34. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (33).
Ch 1, turn. Sc across for 22–24 rows (height should match the photo’s wall height).
Round the top corners: on the final row, replace the last 3 sc with (hdc, dc, dc) and mirror at the other side.
Border: sc evenly around the panel. Place 2–3 sc at rounded corners to keep shape smooth.

To give the wall body, make a second identical panel. Join the two panels with sc around the edges, leaving the bottom open. Insert a cut piece of plastic canvas inside, then lightly stuff. Close the bottom edge with sc. This makes the wall stand upright and resist bending.

Right Wall with Window Curtains (3.0 mm hook)

The right wall includes the cutaway opening inside, plus a small window nook with golden curtains. From the outside, it looks like a thick rounded wall with a plant shelf attached. Build this wall as a thick panel like the left wall, then add a window opening detail panel on the inside.

Crochet two panels: ch 34, sc across (33), work 22–24 rows.
Round the top corners the same way as the left wall.
Join panels with sc around, insert plastic canvas, lightly stuff, and close bottom.

Window opening detail (2.5 mm hook): make a small rectangle, about 10–12 stitches wide and 8–9 rows tall. Sew it to the inner right wall, centered near the bed nook area. Leave its center open visually by not adding thickness, so it reads as an opening behind curtains.

Part 3: Back Wall and Roof Support

Back Wall (3.0 mm hook)

The back wall is visible behind the shelves and stove. It’s a full-width panel that supports the roof. Keep it slightly taller than the side walls so the roof curve can arch upward and then settle smoothly.

With Caravan Cream, ch 46. Sc across (45).
Work 22–24 rows, matching the side wall height.
Make a second identical panel, join as a thick wall with plastic canvas inside.

Before closing the bottom, add a small “shelf ledge stitch line” on the inside by embroidering a straight line of backstitch in cream or light brown. This subtle line helps your interior shelf placement look aligned and intentional, like the photo’s neat apothecary wall.

Roof Base Strip (3.0 mm hook)

The roof in the image is tall and softly curved, like a rounded cap. It sits on top of the walls and extends slightly forward. Create a long strip that will bend into the arc. Stiffening inside is essential to keep the smooth silhouette.

With Caravan Cream, ch 46. Sc across (45).
Ch 1, turn. Work 10–12 rows of sc to create a wide roof strip.
Work 1 round of sc around for a clean edge. Do not fasten off yet.

Make a second roof strip identical. Place plastic canvas between the two strips. Join along long edges with sc, then lightly stuff. Leave short edges open for now so you can shape the curve while fitting to the walls. Once satisfied, close short edges with sc.

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Part 4: Assemble the Caravan Shell

Dry-fit everything before sewing. The caravan must read as a thick, plush structure with a clean cutaway opening. The left and right walls attach to the base platform along the marked placement line, and the back wall closes the rear. The front remains open as the “shop entrance.”

Pin the left wall to the base along the back and left edges. Whipstitch through both layers.
Pin the right wall to the base along the back and right edges. Stitch securely.
Attach the back wall across the full width, joining both side walls.
Set the roof on top. Shape the arc so it rises high and curves forward slightly.
Sew roof to the top edges of the walls using tight whipstitches.

To match the image, keep the roof edge crisp and slightly overhanging. If the roof droops, add an extra plastic canvas strip inside the front edge. The cutaway opening should feel wide and inviting, leaving the interior furniture clearly visible from the front-right angle.

Part 5: Interior Floor Details

Interior Rug (Calendula Gold, 2.5 mm hook)

The rug is a small oval or rounded circle in golden yellow, placed near the stove. It grounds the scene visually and echoes the calendula theme. Use tight stitches so it lies flat without ruffling.

MR, 6 sc.
Rnd 2: inc around (12).
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18).
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24).
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around (30).
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around (36). Fasten off, flatten.

If you prefer an oval, start with ch 8 and work an oval increase pattern. Sew rug to the floor slightly left of center, leaving space for the work table and the bed nook. Keep it snug and centered under the stove area.

Part 6: Apothecary Shelf Cabinet (Wood Brown, 2.5 mm hook)

The tall shelf cabinet sits against the left interior wall. It holds multiple small jars and a basket. To match the photo, create a rectangular cabinet with two to three shelf levels. The cabinet should be deep enough for tiny jars to sit securely, but not so deep that it blocks the view.

Cabinet Body

Ch 18. Sc in 2nd ch and across (17).
Work 20–22 rows to form the back panel.
Side panels (make 2): ch 8, sc across (7), work 20–22 rows.
Top and bottom panels (make 2): ch 18, sc across (17), work 7 rows.

Sew sides to back panel, then attach top and bottom to make a box. Add a second layer (duplicate panels) if you want extra firmness. For shelves, stitch in two “shelf strips” inside at evenly spaced heights. Each shelf strip can be a 17-st rectangle worked for 2–3 rows.

Cabinet Shelves

Shelf 1 (lower): place about 6–7 rows up from bottom.
Shelf 2 (middle): place about 12–13 rows up from bottom.
Optional shelf 3 (upper): place near the top, leaving space for a basket.

Attach cabinet firmly to the left interior wall. The photo shows it slightly behind the work table, aligned so the jars are visible from the opening. Add a tiny “support bar” by embroidering a thin line across shelf edges using dark brown floss.

Part 7: Work Table and Stool (Taupe and Wood Brown, 2.5 mm hook)

Work Table Top

The center table is a light taupe piece with a flat top and sturdy legs. It sits in front of the shelf cabinet. Make the top as a rectangle, then add four blocky legs. Keep proportions compact so the table does not dominate the scene.

With Taupe, ch 18. Sc across (17).
Work 10 rows. Fasten off for the tabletop.
Border the tabletop with 1 round of sc for a clean edge.

Table Legs (make 4)

With Wood Brown and 2.5 mm hook: MR, 6 sc.
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) around (9).
Rnd 3–6: sc around (9). Lightly stuff, flatten bottom.

Sew legs under each corner. Add a lower “crossbar shelf” look by stitching a thin strip between legs on one side. Position the table slightly left of center. On top, you will place a tiny funnel, dropper bottle, mortar bowl, and wooden tools.

Simple Stool (for the back-left)

With Wood Brown: MR, 6 sc.
Rnd 2: inc around (12).
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18).
Rnd 4–6: sc around (18). Lightly stuff, flatten.
Legs: attach 4 small rolled cords (ch 6, sl st back) and sew underneath.

Part 8: Stove and Tea Set (Charcoal + Sage, 2.0 mm hook)

Stove Body

The stove is a small charcoal block with a front opening. Keep stitches tight so edges stay crisp. Add a light gray rim and a tiny handle detail. The stove sits along the back wall, slightly right of center, between the shelf cabinet and the bed nook.

With Charcoal: ch 13, sc in 2nd ch and across (12).
Work 8 rows to form a rectangle. Fold into a box and seam sides.
Create depth: crochet a second identical rectangle and sew behind as the back.
Add a top panel: ch 13, sc across (12), work 4 rows. Sew on top.

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Front opening: embroider a rectangular door outline in black floss, leaving the center unfilled. Add a tiny “handle” by sewing a short strand of gray yarn. If you want extra dimension, stitch a small raised border around the opening using surface crochet.

Kettle (Sage, 2.0 mm hook)

MR, 6 sc.
Rnd 2: inc around (12).
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18).
Rnd 4: sc around (18).
Rnd 5: (2 sc, dec) around (12).
Rnd 6: sc around (12). Lightly stuff.
Rnd 7: (sc, dec) around (8). Fasten off, close.

Spout: ch 4, sl st back, sew to side.
Handle: ch 10, sl st back, curve and sew on top.
Lid: MR, 6 sc, fasten off and sew centered.

Cup and Saucer (Mustard + Cream, 1.75–2.0 mm hook)

Keep these tiny. If they become too large, move to a 1.75 mm hook. A small cup reads best as a shallow cylinder with a delicate handle stitched on as a loop.

Saucer (Mustard): MR, 6 sc; rnd 2 inc (12); rnd 3 (sc, inc) (18). Fasten off.
Cup (Cream): MR, 6 sc; rnd 2 (sc, inc) (9); rnd 3–4 sc around (9). Fasten off.
Handle: ch 4, sl st back, sew to cup side.

Part 9: Bed Nook with Blanket, Pillow, and Curtains

Bed Base (Taupe, 2.5 mm hook)

The bed sits at the back-right area, tucked under the window curtains. It is a simple rectangular block with a slightly raised mattress top. Keep it compact and neatly squared. A clean bed shape helps the blanket drape like the photo.

Ch 18, sc across (17).
Work 12 rows. Fold into a box and sew short ends.
Add a bottom panel (same size) and stitch closed, lightly stuffing.
Mattress top: with Cream, crochet a rectangle 17 x 12 rows and sew on top.

Gingham Blanket (2.0–2.5 mm hook)

The blanket in the image is green gingham with a soft drape. The easiest way is a small colorwork grid made from mini squares. Use two greens (dark and light) plus cream accents. Keep it flexible, not stiff.

Make 16–20 tiny squares (each about 6–7 stitches wide, 6–7 rows tall).
Alternate colors to create a check pattern.
Join squares with whipstitch in matching yarn, forming a rectangle that covers the bed.
Add a thin border of sc in cream to finish the edge.

Drape the blanket diagonally over the bed so it shows folds. Tack it down with a few hidden stitches near the back corner. Leave the front edge loose so it looks naturally rumpled, like a cozy shop bed during a long market day.

Flower Pillow (Cream + Mustard + Orange, 2.0 mm hook)

The pillow in the photo has a flower motif. Build a small square pillow in cream and add a raised flower circle in mustard and orange. Keep the pillow slightly puffy. The flower should sit centered and bold, like a tiny sunflower.

Pillow front (Cream): ch 11, sc across (10), work 10 rows.
Pillow back: make the same panel.
Sew around edges, lightly stuff, close.

Flower center (Mustard): MR 6 sc; rnd 2 inc (12); fasten off, sew centered.
Petal ring (Orange): (sl st, ch 3, dc in same st, ch 3, sl st) in each stitch around to form petals.
Sew petals around the mustard circle edge.

Golden Curtains (Mustard, 2.0 mm hook)

The curtains are short and gathered to the sides. Crochet two small panels and cinch them with a tie. They frame the opening and add warmth. Keep them slightly textured by using simple rows with gentle ruffles.

Ch 10, sc across (9).
Work 8–10 rows.
Along one long edge, work (sc, ch 1, sc) repeatedly to create a soft ripple.
Make two panels. Sew one on each side of the window opening detail.

Gather each curtain toward the side by wrapping a small yarn tie (ch 12, sl st back) around the middle and sewing in place. Angle the bottom slightly inward so the center area looks open, matching the warm “peek-in” curtain shape in the image.

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Part 10: Exterior Sign “Herbal Salve” and Hanging Herb Bundle

Sign Post and Board (2.0 mm hook)

The sign sits on the left exterior, reading “Herbal Salve.” Make a small post and a rounded rectangle sign board. Embroider the words in dark brown floss. Add a thin border to match the photo’s crafted look.

Post (Wood Brown): ch 18, sl st back down. Make 2 and sew together for thickness.
Crossbar: ch 10, sl st back. Sew near top of post.

Sign board (Cream): ch 14, sc across (13), work 10 rows.
Round corners by placing 2 sc into corner stitches on the last border round.
Border (Rust): sc evenly around. Fasten off.

Embroider Herbal on the first line and Salve on the second line in dark brown floss. Use small backstitches. Sew the sign to the crossbar with two tiny yarn loops so it “hangs” slightly forward.

Herb Bundle and Calendula Cluster (2.0 mm hook)

The left exterior also shows a hanging herb bundle and orange calendula blossoms. Make a small bundle by crocheting thin strands and wrapping them, then add mini flowers clustered near the lower area for a cheerful, market-stall look.

Herb strands (Sage): ch 14, sl st back. Make 6–8 strands.
Wrap tops together with sage yarn and stitch to the wall near the sign.

Calendula blossom (Orange): MR, (ch 3, dc, ch 3, sl st) repeated 6 times into ring.
Make 4–6 blossoms. Add tiny green bases if desired (MR 5 sc).
Cluster and sew beneath the herb bundle.

Part 11: Mini Plants and Exterior Plant Shelf

Plant Shelf (Wood Brown, 2.5 mm hook)

On the right exterior, the caravan has a small shelf holding potted plants. Build a narrow rectangular shelf and sew it to the right wall, just outside the cutaway. The shelf should be sturdy and slightly thick so it supports the pots.

Ch 14, sc across (13).
Work 4 rows. Make a second identical piece.
Sew together around edges for thickness, lightly stuff, close.
Sew shelf to right wall, level with the bed window area.

Mini Pots (Terracotta, 2.0 mm hook)

MR, 6 sc.
Rnd 2: inc around (12).
Rnd 3: sc around (12).
Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) around (9).
Rnd 5: sc around (9). Fasten off, lightly stuff.

Succulent Tops (Sage, 1.75–2.0 mm hook)

For the succulent look, stitch small leaf loops directly onto the pot top. Keep leaves short and pointed so they read clearly. Use embroidery floss if your yarn feels too bulky at this scale.

Attach sage yarn to pot top.
(ch 3, sl st back into same point) repeated around to form leaves.
Add a second ring of leaves staggered between the first.

Part 12: Front Display Table with Jars and Scale

Front Table (Taupe, 2.5 mm hook)

The front display table sits on the base mat, centered near the opening. It holds multiple jars and a small scale. Build it slightly lower than the work table. The photo shows it as a light wood tone with an open shelf underneath.

Tabletop: ch 20, sc across (19), work 7 rows.
Legs (4): MR 6 sc; rnd 2 (sc, inc) (9); rnd 3–5 sc around (9).
Under-shelf panel: ch 20, sc across (19), work 4 rows.

Sew legs under corners. Sew the under-shelf panel between legs, about 2 rounds up from the floor, leaving the front open. Add a few tiny jars on the lower shelf so it matches the photo’s “stocked shop” feel.

Mini Scale (Gray + Cream, 1.75–2.0 mm hook)

The scale is a tiny accent on the front table. Keep it minimal: a small base, a stem, and a shallow top dish. Embroider a tiny dial face if you want. Use a 1.75 mm hook if your stitches look chunky.

Base (Gray): MR 6 sc; rnd 2 inc (12); rnd 3 sc around (12).
Stem: ch 6, sl st back, sew centered on base.
Dish (Cream): MR 6 sc; rnd 2 (sc, inc) (9); rnd 3 sc around (9). Sew on top.

Part 13: Apothecary Jars, Bottles, and Labels (2.0 mm hook)

These jars are the heart of the scene. Make a mix of short wide jars and taller narrow bottles. Use different lid colors to create variety. For labels, use embroidery floss to stitch tiny rectangles and lines. Keep the labeling style consistent so the shelf looks curated.

Short Wide Jar (make 8–12)

With Cream: MR, 6 sc.
Rnd 2: inc around (12).
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18).
Rnd 4–6: sc around (18).
Rnd 7: (sc, dec) around (12). Lightly stuff.
Rnd 8: sc around (12). Fasten off, close lightly.

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Lid (Dark Brown): MR 6 sc; rnd 2 inc (12); fasten off and sew on top.

Tall Bottle (make 6–10)

With Cream: MR 6 sc.
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) around (9).
Rnd 3–7: sc around (9).
Rnd 8: (sc, dec) around (6).
Rnd 9–10: sc around (6). Fasten off, close.

Cap (Brown): ch 4, sl st back, wrap and sew to bottle neck.

Label Method (1.75 mm hook or embroidery only)

For a clean miniature look, embroidery labels are often more accurate than crocheted rectangles. Use cream floss to stitch a small label box, then add tiny “text” lines with dark brown. Keep the words abstract, like the photo’s tiny printed jars.

Stitch a 6–8 mm rectangle on each jar front.
Add 2–3 short horizontal lines inside.
Optionally stitch a tiny dot as a “seal” at the bottom corner.

Part 14: Tiny Tools on the Work Table (Funnel, Dropper, Mortar)

Mini Funnel (Cream, 1.75–2.0 mm hook)

MR 6 sc; rnd 2 inc (12); rnd 3 (sc, inc) (18).
Rnd 4: sc around (18).
Fold slightly and stitch two points together to create a funnel lip shape.
Stem: ch 4, sl st back, sew to underside center.

Dropper Bottle (Amber look: Tan + Brown, 1.75–2.0 mm hook)

Body (Tan): MR 6 sc; rnd 2 (sc, inc) (9); rnd 3–6 sc around (9).
Neck: rnd 7 (sc, dec) (6); rnd 8 sc around (6).
Cap (Brown): MR 6 sc; rnd 2 sc around (6). Sew on top.

Add a tiny “glass” shine by stitching one vertical line in cream floss on the bottle. Keep it subtle. Place the bottle near the funnel on the table top, matching the photo’s apothecary workbench styling.

Mortar Bowl and Pestle (Cream, 2.0 mm hook)

Bowl: MR 6 sc; rnd 2 inc (12); rnd 3 sc around (12); rnd 4 (2 sc, dec) (9). Lightly stuff, fasten off.
Pestle: ch 6, sc in 2nd ch and across (5), roll tightly and sew seam.

Part 15: Tiny Umbrella Stand (Cream) and Side Umbrella

Umbrella Stand (Cream, 2.0 mm hook)

The right exterior shows a tall, narrow stand with a curved handle umbrella tucked inside. Make the stand as a slim cylinder. Add a slight flare at the top by increasing. Keep it stiff so it holds the umbrella shape.

MR 6 sc.
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) around (9).
Rnd 3–10: sc around (9).
Rnd 11: inc around (18) for a gentle flare.
Rnd 12: sc around (18). Fasten off, lightly stuff.

Umbrella (Cream + Mustard, 1.75–2.0 mm hook)

Handle: ch 14, sl st back. Curve end into a hook and sew.
Canopy: MR 6 sc; rnd 2 inc (12); rnd 3 (sc, inc) (18); rnd 4 (2 sc, inc) (24).
Fold canopy slightly and tack with a few stitches so it reads as a closed umbrella.

Part 16: Watering Cart and Potted Plant (Front Left)

Cart Body (Gray + Black Wheels, 2.0 mm hook)

In the foreground, a tiny cart holds a plant pot. The cart includes two small wheels and a handle. Keep it simple and sturdy. A little detail goes a long way at this scale, so focus on clear silhouette and neat assembly.

Cart tray (Gray): ch 10, sc across (9), work 6 rows. Make 2 and sew together.
Handle: ch 12, sl st back, sew to tray side.

Wheel (Black, make 2): MR 6 sc; rnd 2 inc (12); rnd 3 sc around (12). Fasten off.
Axle: ch 6, sl st back, sew wheels to ends and attach under tray.

Front Pot Plant (Terracotta + Sage)

Make one extra pot and succulent as described earlier, or create a leafy herb plant by adding long stitched leaves. Place it in the cart tray and secure with a couple of stitches so it stays upright. This detail matches the “shop inventory” story of the caravan.

Part 17: Characters

Fox Apothecary (2.5 mm hook for body, 2.0 mm for accessories)

The fox stands in front-left wearing a warm outfit: a rust beret-style hat, a sage scarf, and a mustard-accent coat. The body is classic amigurumi with a white muzzle and dark paws. Keep the fox slightly larger than the cat, matching the image.

Fox Head (Rust, 2.5 mm)

MR 6 sc.
Rnd 2: inc around (12).
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18).
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24).
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around (30).
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around (36).
Rnd 7–11: sc around (36).

Insert 6 mm safety eyes between rnds 9 and 10, about 7–8 stitches apart. Add a little stuffing. Continue shaping the head so it rounds softly and matches the plush look. Keep decreases smooth to avoid a pointy crown.

Rnd 12: (4 sc, dec) around (30).
Rnd 13: (3 sc, dec) around (24).
Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) around (18).
Rnd 15: (sc, dec) around (12). Stuff firmly.
Rnd 16: dec around (6). Fasten off, close.

Muzzle (White, 2.5 mm)

MR 6 sc; rnd 2 inc (12); rnd 3 sc around (12). Lightly stuff and sew centered low on face.

Embroider a small triangular nose in dark brown at the top of the muzzle. Add a short straight mouth line beneath. Keep the expression gentle and friendly, like the photo’s sweet, calm face.

Fox Ears (Rust, make 2)

MR 6 sc.
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) around (9).
Rnd 3: sc around (9).
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (12).
Rnd 5: sc around (12). Flatten and sew to head top.

Fox Body (Rust, 2.5 mm)

MR 6 sc.
Rnd 2: inc around (12).
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18).
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24).
Rnd 5–9: sc around (24).
Rnd 10: (2 sc, dec) around (18).
Rnd 11–12: sc around (18). Stuff firmly.
Rnd 13: (sc, dec) around (12). Fasten off, leave tail for sewing.

Fox Arms (Rust with Dark Paws, make 2)

Start Dark Brown: MR 6 sc; rnd 2 sc around (6).
Change to Rust: rnd 3 (sc, inc) around (9); rnd 4–7 sc around (9).
Lightly stuff, flatten top, sew to body sides.

Fox Legs (Rust with Dark Paws, make 2)

Start Dark Brown: MR 6 sc; rnd 2 inc (12).
Rnd 3 sc around (12).
Change to Rust: rnd 4 (2 sc, dec) (9); rnd 5–8 sc around (9).
Stuff firmly, flatten top, sew to body bottom.

Fox Tail (Rust + White tip)

Rust: MR 6 sc; rnd 2 (sc, inc) (9); rnd 3–6 sc around (9).
Change to White: rnd 7 (sc, dec) (6); rnd 8 sc around (6).
Stuff lightly, fasten off, sew to back of body.

Fox Beret Hat (Rust, 2.0 mm)

The hat is a soft beret with a slightly flattened dome. It sits tilted. Keep it thin and flexible. If it looks too stiff, loosen tension slightly or use a 2.5 mm hook for the final round only.

MR 6 sc.
Rnd 2 inc (12); rnd 3 (sc, inc) (18); rnd 4 (2 sc, inc) (24).
Rnd 5 (3 sc, inc) (30); rnd 6 (4 sc, inc) (36).
Rnd 7–8 sc around (36).
Rnd 9 (4 sc, dec) (30). Fasten off.

Fox Scarf (Sage, 2.0 mm)

Ch 36. Sc in 2nd ch and across (35).
Work 2 rows total, fasten off.
Add fringe: attach 3 short strands at each end.

Fox Coat Trim (Mustard accents)

To match the mustard accents along the fox’s outfit, add a simple collar and hem detail. Stitch mustard yarn around the body as surface crochet or whipstitch a thin chain strip. Keep it neat, like a crafted jacket edge.

Hem trim: ch 28, sl st back; sew around lower body.
Collar: ch 14, sl st back; sew as a short strip under head.

Cat Assistant (2.5 mm hook for body, 2.0 mm for tray)

The cat stands at front-right holding a tray of tiny jars. The body is cream or light beige, with small ears and a simple face. Keep features minimal and cute. The cat’s outfit is simple, with a small apron-like panel in soft green.

Cat Head (Cream)

MR 6 sc.
Rnd 2 inc (12); rnd 3 (sc, inc) (18); rnd 4 (2 sc, inc) (24).
Rnd 5–7 sc around (24).
Rnd 8 (2 sc, dec) (18); rnd 9 (sc, dec) (12). Stuff.
Rnd 10 dec (6). Fasten off, close.

Eyes: embroider two small black vertical stitches or use 5 mm safety eyes. Add a tiny nose in pink or brown floss. Keep the expression gentle. Place features slightly lower for a baby-like look, matching the small helper vibe.

Cat Ears (make 2)

MR 4 sc; rnd 2 (sc, inc) (6); rnd 3 sc around (6). Flatten and sew to top.

Cat Body (Cream)

MR 6 sc.
Rnd 2 inc (12); rnd 3 (sc, inc) (18).
Rnd 4–6 sc around (18).
Rnd 7 (sc, dec) (12). Stuff lightly.
Rnd 8 dec (6). Fasten off, close.

Cat Arms (Cream, make 2)

MR 6 sc; rnd 2–4 sc around (6). Lightly stuff, flatten, sew high on body.

Cat Legs (Cream, make 2)

MR 6 sc; rnd 2 inc (12); rnd 3 (2 sc, dec) (9); rnd 4–6 sc around (9).
Stuff, flatten top, sew to bottom.

Apron Panel (Soft Green)

Ch 9, sc across (8), work 7 rows.
Straps: ch 14 for neck strap, sew to top corners.
Waist ties: ch 18 on each side, tie at back.

Serving Tray (Gray, 2.0 mm)

The tray is a shallow oval. It should be wide enough to hold 4–6 tiny jars. Keep it flat and slightly cupped at edges. If your tray curls, add one more round without increases to stabilize.

Ch 8. In 2nd ch, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch, sc back along other side (6), 2 sc in last (17).
Rnd 2: inc at each end curve, sc along sides evenly (about 23).
Rnd 3: sc around without increases for a shallow rim.

Sew tray to the cat’s arms so it sits forward, like the photo. Add 4–6 mini jars (use the jar patterns) and tack them onto the tray so they don’t fall. Keep them spaced and visible, like a neat market display.

Part 18: Arrange Interior Props (Exact Scene Placement)

Now bring the caravan to life by placing every mini element where it appears in the image. The goal is a full apothecary shop vignette: jars on the shelf cabinet, a few jars on the back wall ledge, tools on the work table, stove with kettle and cup near the bed, and plants outside.

Left interior: attach the tall shelf cabinet against the wall.
Center: place the work table in front of the shelf cabinet.
Back center-right: place stove against the back wall, rug beneath.
Back right: place bed under the curtain window, add pillow and blanket.
Front mat: place the display table with jars and scale.
Front-left mat: place the watering cart with potted plant.
Right exterior: attach plant shelf and pots, then umbrella stand.
Left exterior: attach sign and herb bundle with calendula blossoms.

For extra stability, tack furniture to the floor with hidden stitches. If you want removable pieces, use tiny magnets or micro snaps under the rug and tables. Keep attachments discreet so the scene still looks soft and handmade from every angle.

Part 19: Mini Stock Items for the Shelf and Table (Optional Variety, Same Look)

The photo shows many jars with different shapes and lid tones. Use the jar and bottle patterns to make enough “inventory” so the shelves look full. Add 2–3 jars on the back wall ledge and 1–2 near the stove, keeping the scene balanced.

Make at least 18–24 total mini containers in mixed shapes.
Use brown lids for most, and a few cream lids for contrast.
Add labels to all containers for a true apothecary feel.
Scatter 2 jars on the floor near the front table like the photo.

If you want a “salve tin” look, crochet a very shallow disk (MR 6 sc; rnd 2 inc 12; rnd 3 sc around) and stitch a lid line with embroidery. Place these on the work table or shelf top so the shop feels busy and well stocked.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the fox head to the body firmly, centered and slightly forward. Add small blush dots with pink floss if you like. Ensure the cat’s tray is level and the jars are secured. Re-check the caravan roof curve and tighten any seams so the silhouette stays smooth and tall.

Care Notes

Display away from direct sunlight to prevent fading, especially mustard and orange yarns. Handle mini items gently and avoid tugging labels. If you used glue for labels, allow it to fully cure before moving pieces. Keep the caravan on a stable shelf to protect tiny props.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

All walls firmly attached and standing upright
Roof curve stable, edges smooth
Shelf cabinet secured, jars labeled and evenly spaced
Stove, kettle, cup, rug placed in the correct back area
Bed has pillow, blanket drape, and curtains gathered
Front table has jars plus the tiny scale
Sign reads “Herbal Salve” and hangs neatly
Plants and umbrella stand attached on the right exterior
Fox and cat faces centered, cute, and consistent

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot-clean with a damp cloth and a tiny amount of gentle soap. Avoid soaking, as stuffing and stiffeners may warp. For dust, use a soft brush or compressed air from a distance. Store in a breathable box with tissue paper support under the roof to maintain the curve.