Knautia Velvet-Tea Bunny – Crochet

This velvet-tea bunny is a sweet, display-ready crochet doll with a soft mauve outfit, a cozy cream cardigan, and a wide-brim hat topped with a layered flower. The set is designed to photograph beautifully and pair well with amigurumi supplies people often search for when buying yarn, safety eyes, and doll accessories.

You’ll also make the tiny tea-time props and a matching little friend, so the whole scene feels complete: a purse with a flap and button, a teacup with saucer, and bite-size cookies. If you’re shopping for cotton yarn, velvet fabric, buttons, and stuffing, this project uses small amounts and looks luxe.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Snapshot

This set includes three crochet builds and one simple fabric piece: the bunny doll, a tiny pig friend, and the tea-time accessories (purse, cup, saucer, cookies). The bunny wears a mauve V-neck bodice with a velvet skirt and a floral puff hem, plus a cream cardigan, cream Mary Janes, and a mauve hat with a two-tone flower.

• Style: soft vintage tea party
• Construction: worked in continuous rounds unless stated
• Stitches: single crochet fabric with clean shaping
• Best yarn choice: smooth cotton or cotton-blend for crisp definition

Skill Level

Confident beginner to intermediate. You should be comfortable with tight single crochet, invisible decreases, and basic sewing. The outfit adds simple finishing steps like edging, small appliqués, and attaching a gathered velvet skirt. None of the steps are difficult, but they reward patience and neat stitching.

Finished Size and Proportions

Size depends on yarn and hook, but the photo look is achieved with DK/light worsted cotton and a small hook for tight stitches. Aim for a bunny around 10–12 in (25–30 cm) tall standing, with a large round head, long floppy ears that hang beside the face, and short sturdy legs that fit Mary Jane shoes.

• Bunny: approx. 10–12 in (25–30 cm)
• Pig friend: approx. 4–5 in (10–13 cm)
• Purse: approx. 4 in wide (10 cm)
• Cup + saucer: mini prop scale for the dolls

Materials

• Yarn (DK or light worsted cotton): Bunny Tan/Beige (A), Cream (B), Dusty Mauve (C), Soft Pink (D), Dark Brown embroidery (E)
• Velvet fabric: Dusty Mauve (small rectangle for skirt)
• Hook: 2.25–3.0 mm (choose for tight fabric)
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
• Eyes: black safety eyes 8–10 mm for bunny; 6–8 mm for pig
• Optional nose thread: dark brown or taupe embroidery floss
• Buttons: 2 small flat buttons for bunny shoes; 1 button for purse flap
• Notions: stitch markers, tapestry needle, pins, sharp scissors
• Sewing items for skirt: needle + matching thread, straight pins
• Optional: thin craft wire or pipe cleaner for hat brim stability (not required)

Color Placement (Match the Photo)

• Bunny body: Tan/Beige (A)
• Bunny hat: Dusty Mauve (C)
• Hat flower: Dusty Mauve (C) + Cream (B)
• Dress bodice: Dusty Mauve (C)
• Dress waistband scallops: Cream (B)
• Dress skirt: Dusty Mauve velvet fabric
• Skirt hem flowers: Dusty Mauve (C)
• Skirt hem puffs: Cream (B)
• Cardigan and shoes: Cream (B)
• Cardigan cuff trim: Dusty Mauve (C)
• Pig friend: Soft Pink (D) with Dusty Mauve (C) outfit and Cream (B) vest
• Purse: Dusty Mauve (C) with Cream (B) flap and light button
• Tea props: Cup/Saucer Dusty Mauve + Cream rim; tea surface in brown

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
• dec = invisible decrease (sc2tog)
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• rnd = round
• st(s) = stitch(es)

Important Notes for a Photo-Accurate Look

Use a smaller hook than the yarn label suggests so the fabric is firm and smooth. The face in the photo is very clean: the nose is small and centered, and the mouth is a simple “Y” shape. Keep stuffing even, especially in the muzzle area, to avoid lumps.

The bunny’s ears are long and softly rounded, hanging down along the cheeks. Do not overstuff the ears. The cardigan is cropped and open-front, ending above the velvet skirt. The dress hem uses alternating mauve flowers and cream puffs for a vintage, textured border that sits on the skirt edge.

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Gauge (Helpful, Not Stressful)

Tight single crochet is the goal. If your stitches look loose and stuffing shows through, drop a hook size. For DK cotton with a 2.5 mm hook, many crocheters get about 7–9 sc per inch. Consistency matters more than exact gauge for this doll.

AMIGURUMI BUNNY

Head (A)

Work in continuous rounds. Place a marker in the first stitch of each round. The head is a smooth sphere with a slightly defined muzzle area created by gradual shaping. Stuff firmly as you go, keeping the front muzzle round and even.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around (42)
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) around (48)

These increases create the wide cheeks seen in the photo. Keep your tension steady so the spiral rounds stay smooth. If you notice a ridge, tighten your stitch and be sure your marker stays in the correct first stitch each round.

1. Rnd 9–16: sc around (48)
2. Rnd 17: (6 sc, dec) around (42)
3. Rnd 18: (5 sc, dec) around (36)
4. Rnd 19: (4 sc, dec) around (30)
5. Rnd 20: (3 sc, dec) around (24)

Insert eyes now: Place safety eyes between Rnds 12 and 13, about 8–9 stitches apart (adjust to your eye size). The photo eyes sit fairly wide for a gentle expression. Center them horizontally and keep them level.

1. Rnd 21: (2 sc, dec) around (18)
2. Rnd 22: (sc, dec) around (12)
3. Rnd 23: dec around (6)

Fasten off. Close the opening neatly. Shape the head with your hands, pushing stuffing toward the muzzle area so the face looks softly rounded rather than flat.

Facial Embroidery (E)

Use dark brown embroidery floss or yarn split into strands. The nose in the photo is small and centered, with a tiny vertical line and two short curves forming a “Y” mouth. Keep stitches short, symmetrical, and slightly raised.

• Count down to center: place nose between eyes, about 3–4 rounds below the eye line.
• Make a small triangle/oval nose: 3–5 tiny stitches.
• Stitch a short line down 1–2 rounds.
• Add two short curved mouth lines left and right.

Ears (Make 2, A)

The ears are long, rounded, and floppy. They hang beside the face and extend to about the bunny’s chest area. Work in rounds, then flatten and sew with a gentle curve. Do not stuff, or use only a whisper of stuffing near the base.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5–10: sc around (24)
6. Rnd 11: (2 sc, dec) around (18)
7. Rnd 12–20: sc around (18)
8. Rnd 21: (sc, dec) around (12)
9. Rnd 22–24: sc around (12)

Fasten off with a long tail for sewing. Flatten the ear and gently steam-shape it with your hands so the bottom edge curves slightly inward. This helps the ear frame the face the way it does in the photo.

Body (A)

The body is a compact cylinder with soft curves. It must support clothing layers: bodice, cardigan, and skirt. Stuff firmly, especially in the lower belly and hip area, so the doll stands well once the shoes and legs are attached.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around (36)
7. Rnd 7–10: sc around (36)
8. Rnd 11: (4 sc, dec) around (30)
9. Rnd 12–14: sc around (30)
10. Rnd 15: (3 sc, dec) around (24)
11. Rnd 16–18: sc around (24)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching to the head if you prefer sewing that way. If you like a firmer neck, you can crochet a short neck tube before closing, but the photo look is a clean head-to-body join with minimal neck showing under the V-neck bodice.

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Arms (Make 2, A)

The arms are slim with rounded paws. In the photo, the cardigan sleeves end around the wrist, and there is a small mauve trim detail at the cuff. Keep the arms lightly stuffed so they rest naturally at the bunny’s sides.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3–4: sc around (12)
4. Rnd 5: (2 sc, dec) around (9)
5. Rnd 6–18: sc around (9)

Fasten off with a long tail. Stuff from the paw up, leaving the last 1–2 rounds unstuffed to flatten for sewing.

Legs (Make 2, A)

The legs are sturdy and slightly tapered. They fit into the cream shoes and help the doll stand. Stuff firmly, especially in the ankle area, so the shoes don’t collapse. Keep the seam alignment consistent so both legs look identical from the front.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5–6: sc around (24)
6. Rnd 7: (2 sc, dec) around (18)
7. Rnd 8–16: sc around (18)
8. Rnd 17: (sc, dec) around (12)
9. Rnd 18–22: sc around (12)

Fasten off with a long tail for sewing to the body. Stuff firmly. Make sure both legs are the same length by counting rounds carefully.

Tail (A)

The tail is a small nub, mostly hidden by the skirt. Keep it compact and round.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc around (12)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) around (9)
5. Rnd 5: sc around (9)

Fasten off with a tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.

OUTFIT: MAUVE V-NECK BODICE + VELVET SKIRT + FLORAL HEM

Dress Bodice (C)

The bodice is a sleeveless V-neck shape that sits under the cream cardigan. It should fit snugly around the bunny’s torso and end at the waist. The V shape is visible in the photo, centered and neat. Work in rows for shaping, then join into a round.

Tip: Because bodies vary, treat the stitch counts as a guide. The key is a smooth front V and a fitted waistline that hides under the cream scalloped waistband.

1. Ch 34 (or enough to wrap snugly around bunny chest). Join with sl st to form a ring, being careful not to twist.
2. Rnd 1: ch 1, sc around, join (34)
3. Rnd 2: ch 1, sc around, join

Now create the V-neck opening by working the front half in rows and leaving a gap at the top. Mark the center front and center back. The V opening is made by decreasing toward the center front over several rows.

1. Row 3 (front shaping): sc across the front half stitches, turn.
2. Row 4: ch 1, sc across, dec at the neck edge (inside edge), turn.
3. Row 5: ch 1, sc across, dec at the neck edge, turn.
4. Row 6–8: repeat until the V is deep enough (about 5–6 rows of shaping total).

Fasten off front panel. Rejoin yarn to the other side of the center front and mirror the shaping so the V is symmetrical. Once both sides are shaped, rejoin in the round at the underarm area and sc around the waistline for a clean base.

To match the photo, add a simple neckline finish: work one round of sc evenly around the neck opening, keeping corners crisp. Do not add bulky edging; the neckline should look clean and tailored under the cardigan.

Waistband Scallops (B)

The waist has a cream decorative band that reads like tiny rounded scallops or beads. This sits where the velvet skirt attaches. Work into the waistline stitches of the bodice. Keep the scallops small and evenly spaced.

1. Attach B at side seam. *Sl st in next st, (ch 3, sl st in same st) to form a tiny loop; sl st in next st.* Repeat around.

If you want a slightly fuller scallop, use ch 4 instead of ch 3. The photo effect is subtle, so keep it delicate. Fasten off and weave in ends neatly inside the bodice.

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Velvet Skirt (Fabric Piece)

The skirt is a mauve velvet fabric circle or gathered rectangle attached at the waist so it falls softly. The photo shows a smooth, drapey skirt with gentle gathers and a clean bottom edge, then the crochet floral hem sits on that bottom edge.

• Cut fabric: a rectangle about 2.5–3 times the bunny waist circumference, height from waist to below knees.
• Hem the bottom edge with a small fold so it stays tidy.
• Gather the top edge with a running stitch until it fits the waist snugly.
• Stitch the gathered top to the inside of the bodice waistline.

When sewing, keep gathers even. The skirt should start directly under the cream waistband loops and hang straight. Press gently with fingers only; velvet can mark with heat. The bottom edge should sit above the shoes so the Mary Janes remain visible.

Crochet Skirt Hem: Mauve Flowers + Cream Puffs

The hem is the signature detail in the photo: mauve flower clusters alternating with cream puff balls, forming a textured garland along the skirt bottom. Make the motifs separately, then stitch them evenly around the skirt hem.

Cream Puff Balls (Make 10–14, B)

These are small bobbles that look like raised pearls. Keep them firm and round. Adjust count based on skirt circumference so spacing looks balanced.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc around (12)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) around (9)
5. Rnd 5: sc around (9)
6. Rnd 6: (sc, dec) around (6)

Stuff lightly and close. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. The puff should be about the size of a small marble relative to the bunny.

Mauve Flowers (Make 10–14, C)

The flowers are small, rounded petals that sit slightly raised. The photo flowers look like clustered petals rather than flat lace. Use a tight stitch and keep petals compact.

1. Magic ring, ch 1.
2. Work 6 sc into ring, join with sl st (6).
3. *Ch 2, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st* = 1 petal.
4. Repeat petal in each stitch around for 6 petals total.

Fasten off with a sewing tail. If you want a fuller flower, add a second layer: join yarn behind a petal and make smaller 5-petal layer using (ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st) into alternating stitches.

Hem Layout and Attachment

Pin the mauve flowers around the skirt hem first, evenly spaced. Then pin a cream puff between each flower. The photo reads as alternating mauve and cream elements, close together but not crowded.

• Arrange: Flower, Puff, Flower, Puff, repeating around.
• Sew each motif with small hidden stitches through the velvet hem fold.
• Keep stitches on the inside of the skirt where possible.

Finish by stitching a thin mauve line along the skirt edge if needed: a single crochet chain can be sewn on as a subtle border. In the photo, the velvet edge looks clean and the crochet motifs are the main trim.

CARDIGAN (B) WITH MAUVE CUFF TRIM (C)

Cardigan Body (B)

The cardigan is cropped, open-front, and slightly rounded at the front edges. It ends above the skirt and has a soft drape. Work it as a simple top-down yoke in rows, then add sleeves. Keep it snug but not tight over the bodice.

Because doll sizes vary, fit-check on your bunny as you go. The photo cardigan sits just below the chest line, leaving the mauve V-neck visible. The front edges curve gently and do not overlap much.

1. Ch 26. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (25). Turn.
2. Row 2: ch 1, sc across (25). Turn.
3. Row 3: ch 1, inc, sc across to last st, inc (27). Turn.
4. Row 4: ch 1, sc across (27). Turn.
5. Row 5: ch 1, inc, sc across to last st, inc (29). Turn.

These gentle increases create a rounded shoulder/upper back. Now create openings for sleeves by skipping a small section on each side, then continuing the body. Try it around the bunny’s shoulders and mark where the armholes should sit.

1. Row 6: ch 1, sc 6, ch 6, skip 6, sc across middle, ch 6, skip 6, sc to end. Turn.
2. Row 7: ch 1, sc across, working sc into each ch (counts stay even). Turn.

Continue working rows for the cardigan length. Add slight rounding at the front by decreasing one stitch at each front edge every other row for a soft curve, stopping when the cardigan hits the waistline.

1. Rows 8–14: sc rows, shaping edges gently as desired.

Fasten off. Weave ends along seams. Keep the fabric smooth; the cardigan in the photo looks tailored and tidy, not ruffled.

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Sleeves (B) + Cuff Trim (C)

Join B at an armhole and work in rounds. Sleeves are straight and end at the wrist. Add a small mauve trim at the cuff, matching the photo’s subtle decorative band.

1. Rnd 1: sc evenly around armhole opening (about 14–18 sts). Join.
2. Rnd 2–6: sc around. Join each round.

Switch to C for the cuff trim. The photo trim looks like a small textured ridge. Use a simple scallop or bobble-like edge without making it bulky.

1. Trim rnd: *sl st in next st, ch 2, sl st in same st; sl st in next st* repeat around.

Fasten off. Repeat for second sleeve. Try on the bunny and ensure both cuffs sit at the same height on the arms.

HAT (C) WITH TWO-TONE FLOWER

Wide-Brim Hat (C)

The hat is a rounded cloche with a gentle brim that frames the face. In the photo, the brim is not floppy; it holds a smooth curve. Use tight stitches and consider adding a round of BLO or a hidden round of slip stitches for structure.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around (42)
8. Rnd 8–12: sc around (42)

Now form the brim. Work one round in BLO to create a crisp turning edge. Then increase gradually so the brim flares. The brim in the photo is moderate, not oversized.

1. Rnd 13: sc around in BLO (42)
2. Rnd 14: (6 sc, inc) around (48)
3. Rnd 15: sc around (48)
4. Rnd 16: (7 sc, inc) around (54)
5. Rnd 17: sc around (54)

For extra structure, add a final round of sl st around the edge, or sc with slightly tighter tension. Fasten off and weave in ends. Test fit: the hat should sit low enough to nearly touch the top of the eyes without covering them.

Layered Flower for Hat (C + B)

The flower is placed on the left side of the hat brim (from the bunny’s perspective), near the front. The photo shows a layered look: a larger mauve base flower with a smaller cream flower on top.

Base Flower (C)

1. Magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, join.
2. *Ch 2, 3 dc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st* repeat in each stitch for 6 petals.

Top Flower (B)

1. Magic ring, ch 1, 5 sc in ring, join.
2. *Ch 2, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st* repeat for 5 petals.

Stack the cream flower centered on the mauve flower. Stitch together through the center. Sew the flower to the hat with sturdy stitches, anchoring petals so they don’t flop. The flower should angle slightly upward, matching the photo’s gentle, decorative placement.

MARY JANE SHOES (B) WITH BUTTON STRAPS

Shoe Base (Make 2, B)

The shoes are rounded and slightly chunky, with a strap across the top and a small side button. The photo shoes look neat and structured, with a defined opening and a smooth toe. Work tightly and stuff lightly at the toe if needed.

1. Ch 10.
2. Rnd 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch; working down other side: sc 7, 2 sc in last (20)
3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 7, inc x3, sc 7, inc x2 (28)
4. Rnd 3: sc around (28)
5. Rnd 4: sc around in BLO (28)

Now build the shoe sides and create the opening. You want a toe that rises and an opening that leaves space for the foot. Work a few rounds, then start decreasing at the top/front area.

1. Rnd 5: sc around (28)
2. Rnd 6: sc around (28)
3. Rnd 7: sc 10, dec x4, sc 10 (24)
4. Rnd 8: sc around (24)
5. Rnd 9: sc 9, dec x3, sc 9 (21)

Fasten off and weave in ends. Fit on the bunny leg: the shoe should hug the foot area. If it’s loose, reduce starting chain by 1. If tight, add 1 chain and adjust the increases proportionally.

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Strap (B) + Button

Make one strap per shoe. The strap crosses the top and attaches at the side with a small button, matching the photo. Keep it slim and tidy.

1. Ch 10–12. Sc in 2nd ch and across.
2. Fasten off, leaving tails on both ends.

Sew one end of strap to the inner side of the shoe opening. Sew the other end to the outer side, overlapping slightly. Stitch a small button on the outer side where the strap meets, as in the photo. Make sure both shoes mirror each other.

MINI PURSE (C + B)

Purse Body (C)

The purse is a small rectangle with a mauve body and a cream flap that folds down. The photo shows a single button centered on the flap. The purse looks lightly structured, so use tight stitches and consider a piece of thin felt inside if desired.

1. Ch 21.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (20). Turn.
3. Rows 2–18: ch 1, sc across (20). Turn.

Fold the rectangle so the bottom edge meets the middle, creating a pocket. Seam the sides with sc or whip stitch. Turn right side out. Keep corners crisp and edges even so it looks tidy beside the doll.

Flap (B)

Attach B to the back top edge of the purse. Work the flap in rows so it covers the front and ends with a gentle rounded edge.

1. Row 1: sc across the top edge (20). Turn.
2. Row 2: ch 1, sc across (20). Turn.
3. Row 3: ch 1, dec, sc across to last 2 sts, dec (18). Turn.
4. Row 4: ch 1, sc across (18). Turn.
5. Row 5: ch 1, dec, sc across to last 2 sts, dec (16). Turn.
6. Row 6: ch 1, sc across (16). Turn.

Stop when the flap length covers the front nicely. Fasten off. Stitch a button centered on the flap front. If you want the flap to close, add a small yarn loop on the purse body under the button.

TEA SET: CUP, SAUCER, COOKIES

Teacup (C + B + brown)

The cup is dusty mauve with a light rim and a brown “tea” surface. Keep it small and neat. The handle is a tiny loop. The photo cup sits on a matching saucer with a pale rim, so aim for a coordinated look.

1. With C: Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc around (12)
4. Rnd 4: sc around in BLO (12)
5. Rnd 5: sc around (12)
6. Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc) around (16)
7. Rnd 7: sc around (16)

Switch to brown for tea surface: sc around once, then lightly stuff the cup walls with a tiny bit of stuffing to help hold shape. Switch to B for the rim: one neat round of sc. Fasten off and weave in ends inside the cup.

Handle: with C, ch 6, sl st back into first ch to form a loop. Sew loop to the cup side near the rim. Keep it small and close to the cup so it matches the compact prop look in the photo.

Saucer (C + B)

The saucer is a flat circle with a subtle rim. The photo shows a pale edge, so add one round in cream. Keep the saucer slightly larger than the cup base so the cup sits centered.

1. With C: Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)

Switch to B: one round of sc around (24). Fasten off. If the saucer curls, block it gently by pressing flat with your hands.

Cookies (2–3 pieces)

The cookies are tiny ovals, beige with darker “chips” or dots. Make them flat so they sit naturally by the cup. Stitch a few small dots with brown yarn for detail.

1. With beige/tan: ch 6.
2. Rnd 1: sc in 2nd ch, sc 3, 3 sc in last; sc 3 down other side, 2 sc in last (12)
3. Rnd 2: sc around (12)

Fasten off. Add 6–10 tiny brown stitches as chips. Make at least two cookies, as shown in the photo, and place them beside the saucer.

TINY PIG FRIEND (D) WITH MAUVE OUTFIT

Pig Head (D)

The pig is small and round with a short snout, tiny ears, and black eyes. In the photo, the pig wears a mauve hat and a cream vest over a mauve skirt. Keep the pig’s face cute and simple, with a small snout and minimal embroidery.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5–7: sc around (24)
6. Rnd 8: (2 sc, dec) around (18)

Insert eyes: Place small safety eyes between Rnds 5 and 6, about 5–6 stitches apart. Keep them slightly wide for a friendly expression. Continue shaping and stuffing.

1. Rnd 9: (sc, dec) around (12)
2. Rnd 10: dec around (6)

Fasten off and close. Shape the head smooth.

Snout (D)

The snout is a small oval attached low on the face. Add two tiny stitched nostrils. Keep it centered so the pig looks balanced under the hat brim.

1. Ch 5.
2. Rnd 1: sc in 2nd ch, sc 2, 3 sc in last; sc 2 down other side, 2 sc in last (10)
3. Rnd 2: sc around (10)

Fasten off with a tail. Lightly stuff. Sew to the face about 1–2 rounds below the eye line. Embroider two small nostrils with darker pink or brown thread.

Pig Ears (Make 2, D)

The ears are small triangles/rounded tabs. They peek from under the hat in the photo. Keep them tiny and sew near the top sides of the head.

1. Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
2. Rnd 2: (sc, inc) around (6)
3. Rnd 3: sc around (6)

Fasten off and sew in place.

Pig Body (D)

The body is a small oval shape. The mauve skirt sits at the lower half. Keep stuffing firm so the pig stands. The arms and legs are tiny nubs.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4–6: sc around (18)
5. Rnd 7: (sc, dec) around (12)
6. Rnd 8: sc around (12)
7. Rnd 9: dec around (6)

Fasten off and close. Stuff firmly before closing. Sew head to body securely.

Pig Arms (Make 2, D) and Legs (Make 2, D)

Keep these minimal so clothing fits. The photo shows tiny limbs peeking under the vest and skirt.

• Arms: 6 sc in magic ring, sc 2 rounds, fasten off with sewing tail.
• Legs: 6 sc in magic ring, sc 1 round, fasten off with sewing tail.

Sew arms to sides near upper body. Sew legs at bottom, spaced so the pig can stand.

Pig Skirt (C)

The skirt is a simple mauve band with slight flare. In the photo it sits like a little dress bottom. Work in a short round and add a gentle increase to create a flare.

1. Ch enough to fit around pig waist snugly (about 18–22). Join.
2. Rnd 1: sc around.
3. Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) around.
4. Rnd 3: sc around.

Fasten off. Slip onto pig and tack with a few stitches so it stays in place.

Pig Vest (B)

The vest is a tiny open-front cream piece, similar in look to the bunny cardigan but simpler. It covers the shoulders and chest and ends above the skirt waistband.

1. Ch 16. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across (15). Turn.
2. Rows 2–5: ch 1, sc across. Turn.

Fold around pig shoulders and seam sides leaving small armholes. Optionally add a single round of sc around the front edges for a cleaner finish. Tack in place with tiny stitches.

Pig Hat (C)

The pig’s hat is a small mauve cap that sits low, with gentle brim and openings where the ears sit. You can either sew ear tabs outside the hat or let the ears peek from under the edge as shown in the photo.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5–6: sc around (24)
6. Rnd 7: sc around in BLO (24)
7. Rnd 8: sc around (24)

Fasten off. Fit on pig head. If you want ear openings, skip 2–3 stitches on each side in Round 8 and chain over them, then sc into chains on the next round. For the photo look, a simple brim and ears tucked under works well.

FINAL ASSEMBLY (BUNNY)

Attach Head to Body

Center the head on the body so the face looks straight forward. Pin first, then sew with small, strong stitches around the neck opening. The join should be snug so the head doesn’t wobble. As you sew, add a bit more stuffing at the neck if needed.

Sew Ears

Pin ears to the head so they hang down beside the cheeks. In the photo, ears start slightly above eye level and sit back a touch, not directly on the sides. Sew the top 1/3 of each ear to the head, leaving the rest free to flop naturally.

Sew Arms and Legs

Attach legs first so the bunny can stand. Sew legs evenly on the lower body front, leaving a small gap between them. Attach arms at the sides, slightly forward, so the paws rest near the skirt sides. Keep both arms level and symmetrical.

Tail Placement

Sew the tail centered on the back, just above where the skirt will sit. It should be mostly hidden by the skirt and not stick out too far. A compact tail keeps the dress drape smooth.

DRESSING THE DOLLS

Put the mauve bodice on the bunny first. If it’s snug, it will stay in place without closure. Next, attach or slip on the velvet skirt and confirm the hem sits evenly. Add the cream cardigan over the bodice, then slide on the shoes and secure straps.

Place the hat last, letting the brim frame the face. Sew the hat lightly to the head with a few hidden stitches if you want it fixed for display. Add the flower to the hat’s left front side and anchor petals so the flower looks crisp in photos.

ACCESSORY STYLING

Set the purse beside the bunny, with the cream flap facing forward and the button centered. Place the cup on the saucer and position the cookies to the side as shown. Keep props close to the doll’s feet so the scale reads correctly in pictures.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the eye alignment, then reinforce the embroidery so it stays crisp. Add tiny stitches for eyebrows only if desired; the photo face is simple and sweet without extra lines. Smooth stuffing by gently massaging the head and muzzle. Confirm the V-neck sits centered and the cardigan edges look even.

Care Notes

Keep the doll away from heavy friction to protect the velvet skirt and prevent fuzzing on cotton stitches. Display out of direct sunlight to reduce color fading. If giving as a gift, note that safety eyes are not recommended for children under three years old unless fully secured and supervised.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Eyes level and evenly spaced
• Nose centered, mouth symmetrical
• Ears placed evenly and hanging naturally
• Hat brim smooth, flower firmly attached
• Velvet skirt gathers even at waist
• Hem motifs evenly spaced (Flower/Puff alternating)
• Shoes match and straps mirror correctly
• Pig outfit fits snugly and sits straight

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot-clean cotton areas with a damp cloth and mild soap, then blot dry. Avoid soaking the velvet; spot-clean gently and let air dry flat. Store the set in a breathable box with tissue paper support under the hat brim and skirt to maintain shape. Avoid plastic bags long-term to prevent moisture buildup.