This charming amigurumi set combines a sweet bunny doll, a flower-trimmed sunhat, a textured dress, matching shoes, a market tote, a tiny bouquet, a folded cloth, and a companion turtle. The warm marigold palette gives it the feel of a handmade collectible plush, boutique nursery gift, or artisan amigurumi doll for a spring display.
The finished set is designed for makers who love heirloom-style crochet toys with coordinated accessories that look ready for a craft fair, gift shop, or handmade toy collection. Every piece is shaped to match the image closely, with soft proportions, wearable details, and small decorative elements that create a polished premium finish.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- Main bunny color: soft cream or warm ivory cotton yarn
- Dress, hat, bag, and turtle shell color: golden marigold or muted mustard cotton yarn
- Flower colors: bright marigold, deep golden yellow, and warm orange
- Leaf color: muted green cotton yarn
- Turtle body color: pale sage green cotton yarn
- Small accent color: white for turtle flower and cloth trim
- Nose detail: pale blush pink embroidery thread
- Hook: choose a hook small enough to make firm stitches with no gaps, usually 2.0 mm to 2.5 mm for sport or light DK cotton
- Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
- Eyes: black safety eyes or embroidered eyes in a glossy black style
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Sewing pins or clips
- Optional: thin plastic insert or firm felt circle for hat brim support and bag base support
Finished Size
Using light cotton yarn and a small hook, the bunny doll stands about 9 to 11 inches tall from feet to top of head, not including the hat crown. The ears hang to shoulder level. The turtle is small, squat, and fits beside one foot. The accessories are sized to look proportional rather than oversized.
Gauge and Fabric Notes
Gauge is less important than maintaining a dense, even fabric. The stitches in the image appear tight, smooth, and uniform, with very little visible stuffing through the fabric. Keep your tension firm enough that the bunny looks sculpted and neat, especially on the head, skirt panels, and hat brim.
The doll in the image has a refined surface with compact single crochet stitches. If your work feels soft, loose, or stretchy, move down a hook size. A slightly firmer fabric will help the limbs hold shape, the head stay round, and the dress keep its tidy silhouette.
Abbreviations
- MR = magic ring
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- inc = 2 sc in same stitch
- dec = invisible decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- st = stitch
- rnd = round
- rep = repeat
Design Notes
This set relies on careful shaping and balanced assembly. The head is slightly larger than the torso, the ears are long and softly padded, and the arms are slim with a gentle forward curve. The skirt flares outward, but the peplum layer at the waist softens the transition between bodice and textured lower skirt.
The hat sits low and frames the face without hiding the eyes. The flower garland lies around the crown base rather than high on the head. The shoes are rounded and shallow, like soft slippers. The turtle is short, rounded, and slightly wider than tall, with a shell that looks cozy and domed.
Bunny Head
- Rnd 1: In cream, make 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
- Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
- Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
- Rnd 7: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
- Rnd 8: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
- Rnd 9: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
- Rnd 10: 8 sc, inc around. (60)
- Rnd 11: 9 sc, inc around. (66)
- Rnd 12-23: Sc around. (66)
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Place the eyes between rounds 15 and 16, spaced about 11 to 13 stitches apart, depending on your yarn. The face in the image is calm and open, so avoid placing the eyes too low or too close. Insert them before closing the head, then lightly shape the cheeks with extra stuffing.
- Rnd 24: 9 sc, dec around. (60)
- Rnd 25: 8 sc, dec around. (54)
- Rnd 26: 7 sc, dec around. (48)
- Rnd 27: 6 sc, dec around. (42)
- Rnd 28: 5 sc, dec around. (36)
- Rnd 29: 4 sc, dec around. (30)
- Rnd 30: 3 sc, dec around. (24)
Stuff the head firmly and evenly. The lower face should remain round, not pointed. Add a little extra stuffing at the sides to keep the cheeks full, but do not overpack the muzzle area. The image shows a soft circular face with a smooth jawline and almost no chin.
- Rnd 31: 2 sc, dec around. (18)
- Rnd 32: Sc, dec around. (12)
- Finish with 6 dec if you prefer a complete close, or leave the opening for joining to the neck.
Facial Shaping and Nose Placement
Embroider a tiny blush triangle nose centered between the eyes and slightly lower, around rounds 17 to 18. Add a short vertical stitch beneath it. Keep the mouth extremely subtle. The image shows a very delicate facial expression, so avoid long smiles or heavy sculpting lines.
For gentle muzzle shaping, run a strand of matching cream yarn from the underside of the head to points just below the eyes and pull very lightly. This creates a soft cheek curve. Do not deepen the eye sockets too much. The doll should look sweet, smooth, and plush rather than strongly sculpted.
Ears Make 2
- Rnd 1: In cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
- Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Rnd 5-10: Sc around. (24)
- Rnd 11: 10 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec. (22)
- Rnd 12-17: Sc around. (22)
- Rnd 18: 9 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec. (20)
- Rnd 19-24: Sc around. (20)
- Rnd 25: 8 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec. (18)
- Rnd 26-30: Sc around. (18)
Flatten the ear opening and crochet 8 sc through both layers, or leave a sewing edge open. Stuff only the upper third very lightly, or do not stuff at all. The ears in the image are soft, flat, and drape straight down with a mild inward curve near the ends.
Sew the ears to the sides of the head around rounds 10 to 13, slightly behind the center line so the face remains open. The lower edges should hang near shoulder level. The ears should be parallel and symmetrical, with no outward flare.
Neck
If you prefer a firmer neck, add a short inner neck tube. Make 12 sc in a ring and work 5 to 6 rounds even. Insert into the opening between head and body with stuffing around it. This helps the head sit upright under the hat and keeps the doll from tipping forward.
Body and Bodice
- Rnd 1: In marigold, 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
- Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
- Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
- Rnd 7-9: Sc around. (36)
This upper body becomes the bodice and torso under the dress. Keep the shaping compact. The image shows a small upper body that supports a wider skirt. The shoulders are modest and slightly rounded, not broad. Stuff gradually so the body stays neat and gently cylindrical.
- Rnd 10: 10 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec. (33)
- Rnd 11-12: Sc around. (33)
- Rnd 13: 9 sc, dec around. (30)
- Rnd 14-16: Sc around. (30)
- Rnd 17: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
- Rnd 18: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
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The slight increase toward the waist helps support the peplum and skirt. Continue stuffing the body moderately. It should feel firm enough to stand when supported by the legs, but not rock hard. Leave the lower body opening if you plan to join the legs directly into the torso structure.
Legs Make 2
- Rnd 1: In cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
- Rnd 4-6: Sc around. (18)
- Rnd 7: 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec. (16)
- Rnd 8-20: Sc around. (16)
The legs are slim, straight, and evenly stuffed. They look long relative to the body because the skirt begins above the knee. Keep the lower legs smooth and vertical. Do not taper too much. Leave long tails for sewing or use your preferred joining method to attach them evenly beneath the body.
Check the standing balance before fully securing. The feet and shoes help stabilize the doll, so position the legs with a slight outward stance if needed. In the image, the bunny stands straight, with both feet visible under the skirt and the knees not bent.
Arms Make 2
- Rnd 1: In cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3-5: Sc around. (12)
- Rnd 6: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. (10)
- Rnd 7-18: Sc around. (10)
Stuff only the lower half firmly and the upper half lightly. Flatten the top opening and close with 4 to 5 sc through both layers or sew closed. The arms in the image angle gently downward and slightly forward, ending around the waistline rather than hanging fully straight.
Sew the arms to the body just below the neckline and slightly toward the front. This placement helps the dress look fitted at the shoulders and matches the soft pose shown in the image.
Shoes Make 2
The shoes are cream with marigold flower appliqués and green leaf accents. They resemble soft crocheted slippers with a rounded toe and shallow upper opening. Work tightly so the shoes grip the feet and keep a clean profile.
- Ch 7 in cream.
- Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, rotate, sc 4, inc in last. (14)
- Rnd 2: Inc, sc 4, 3 inc, sc 4, 2 inc. (20)
- Rnd 3: Sc around in BLO. (20)
- Rnd 4: Sc 6, dec 4 times, sc 6. (16)
- Rnd 5: Sc around. (16)
To create the upper edge, fasten off and join yarn at center back. Work one shaping row across the top front only to form the slipper opening. You want the toe covered but the ankle visible. Test-fit on the leg and adjust the opening by one or two stitches if needed.
- Row 1: Sc 10 across top front, turn.
- Row 2: Dec, sc 6, dec. (8)
- Fasten off and sew the shoe onto the foot securely.
Shoe Flower Appliqués Make 2
- In marigold, make 5-petal flowers: In MR, repeat (ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) 5 times.
- Make 2 tiny leaves in green: ch 4, sl st in second ch, sc in next, hdc in next.
- Sew one flower and one leaf cluster to each shoe toe.
Keep these embellishments low and centered. In the image, the shoe flowers sit close to the top front rather than on the side. Use just enough sewing to hold them flat without crushing the petals.
Textured Outer Skirt
The lower skirt is the most visually structured garment in the set. It has a basket-like vertical texture made from raised bands and recessed channels. To achieve a similar appearance, work the skirt as a separate tube attached beneath the peplum, using alternating post-like texture and simple stitches.
If you prefer a smoother method, you can imitate the image with front-post style texture built over a plain base. The exact method matters less than the final look: firm, evenly spaced vertical ridges that create a woven panel effect around the entire skirt.
- Join marigold yarn to the lower waist area or work separately.
- Ch enough to fit around the waist comfortably, usually 42 to 48 stitches.
- Join into a ring, making sure it is not twisted.
- Rnd 1-2: Sc around.
- Rnd 3: Alternate 1 sc and 1 front-texture stitch around.
- Rnd 4: Sc around.
- Rnd 5: Repeat textured round, offsetting the ridges if desired for a woven look.
- Continue this sequence for 12 to 15 rounds.
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Increase very slightly near the upper third of the skirt if needed so it flares gently. The image shows an A-line shape, not a stiff cylinder. The hem reaches below the peplum and leaves the lower legs visible. Finish with one even round of sc to keep the hem crisp.
If your texture becomes too bulky, reduce the relief of the raised stitches. This skirt should look detailed but still scaled for a doll. Steam lightly or shape with fingers after finishing so the panel lines remain straight.
Peplum Waist Flounce
The peplum sits above the lower textured skirt and wraps around the waist like a soft overskirt. It is flatter near the waist seam and ripples slightly at the edge. This layer also supports the flower garland sewn around the waistline.
- Join marigold yarn at the waist in FLO if a round was left available.
- Rnd 1: Sc around evenly.
- Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next around to create a light flare.
- Rnd 3-4: Sc around.
- Rnd 5: For a soft edge, alternate sc and hdc around, or keep all sc for a firmer finish.
The peplum should extend outward slightly and cover the join between bodice and lower skirt. It should not droop heavily. The flower trim will pull it visually into place, so keep the shaping balanced and symmetrical.
Waist Flower Garland
The waistline features a row of small marigold blossoms with green leaf details spaced evenly across the front and sides. These flowers are smaller than the hat flowers and flatter than the side skirt rosette. Make enough to cover roughly half to two-thirds of the waist circumference.
Small Garland Flowers
- Make 6 to 8 tiny flowers in marigold or orange.
- For each flower: 6 sc in MR, join, then work 5 petals using (sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) around.
- Flatten and shape each flower before sewing.
Leaves
- Make 6 to 8 tiny leaf pairs in green.
- Each leaf: ch 4, sl st in second ch, sc, hdc.
- Sew 1 or 2 leaves behind each flower.
Arrange the flowers in a close garland around the peplum seam. The image shows a decorative front-facing band rather than sparse scattered blossoms. Sew them so they overlap slightly and hide the seam line beneath.
Large Side Skirt Rose
The skirt has one larger rosette positioned low on the right side from the viewer’s perspective. This flower is fuller than the waist flowers and looks layered. Make it from a strip that is rolled and stitched into shape.
- Ch 26 in marigold.
- Row 1: Starting in second ch, work 2 sc in each chain across.
- Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Repeat sl st, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sl st into each small curve or every few stitches to create petal waves.
- Roll tightly from one end and stitch the base as you go.
Make one or two small green leaves and tuck them beneath the rosette. Sew the flower near the lower side of the skirt, a little above the hem. It should sit proud of the surface but still feel secure and wearable for a doll.
Top Bodice Surface
The top of the dress is simple and smooth, with a clean neckline and fitted shape. If your body was already worked in dress color, you may only need to refine the top edge. Work one finishing round around the neckline and arm areas to keep them smooth and even.
The neckline in the image is modest and round. Do not make a deep scoop. The shoulders are softly capped, and the arm openings are snug enough that the cream arms look neatly inserted beneath the dress.
Hat Crown
The hat is a soft cloche or bucket-inspired sunhat with a rounded crown and a medium brim. It sits low, nearly touching the top of the eyes, but still leaves the face visible. The crown is smooth and not sharply pointed.
- Rnd 1: In marigold, 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
- Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
- Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
- Rnd 7: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
- Rnd 8: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
- Rnd 9: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
- Rnd 10-17: Sc around. (54)
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Test the fit on the head before continuing. The hat should sit comfortably over the ears, with enough room for the top of the head but not so loose that it slips over the eyes completely.
Hat Brim
- Rnd 18: Work in BLO, 8 sc, inc around. (60)
- Rnd 19: Sc around. (60)
- Rnd 20: 9 sc, inc around. (66)
- Rnd 21: Sc around. (66)
- Rnd 22: 10 sc, inc around. (72)
- Rnd 23-24: Sc around. (72)
The brim should gently angle down and outward. It is not wide like a floppy beach hat. If you want extra stability, slip a thin ring of plastic canvas or firm felt under the brim edge, but keep the finish soft and natural.
Hat Flower Garland
The hat features a full row of rolled flowers circling the base of the crown. These blossoms are denser and more dimensional than the waist flowers. Make 6 to 7 mini roses in marigold shades and sew them close together so they form a continuous band.
- For each rose, ch 20 to 24.
- Row 1: 2 sc in each ch across.
- Row 2: Work petal shaping with small shell sequences to create a ruffled edge.
- Roll tightly and stitch the base.
Arrange the roses around the crown base so they sit just above the brim line. The image shows the flowers crossing the front prominently and continuing around the sides. A few petals can overlap. Add tiny green leaves sparingly so the garland stays flower-forward.
Market Tote Bag
The bag is a structured rectangular tote with short handles and one tiny embroidered flower detail. It stands upright beside the bunny and looks sturdy. Work it tightly so the sides remain straight.
- Ch 13 in marigold.
- Rnd 1: Starting in second ch, sc 11, 3 sc in last ch, rotate, sc 10, inc in last. (26)
- Rnd 2: Inc, sc 10, 3 inc, sc 10, 2 inc. (32)
- Rnd 3: BLO sc around. (32)
- Rnd 4-15: Sc around. (32)
Flatten the bag lightly at the sides so the silhouette becomes boxy rather than rounded. If needed, tack the side corners with a few stitches from inside. The base should be broad enough for the bag to stand on the table or shelf.
Handles
- Mark two handle positions on each side.
- Join yarn and ch 10 to 12 for first handle, skip 5 to 6 stitches, attach with sc.
- Repeat for second handle.
- Work one reinforcement round of sc around each handle.
Embroider a tiny flower on the front using orange and green yarn. Keep it very small, like a miniature nod to the set’s floral theme. The bag in the image is simple and clean, so avoid heavy decoration.
Bouquet
The bouquet is made from three small blossoms in warm tones with short wrapped stems. It lies on the wooden surface near the bag. Keep the bouquet compact and low-profile so it looks scale-appropriate beside the doll.
- Make 3 flowers, each with 5 petals.
- Use one orange, one deep yellow, and one marigold flower.
- Make 3 short stems in green, about 3 to 4 inches long.
- Wrap the stems together with green yarn and knot securely.
Add two or three tiny leaves around the stem wrap. Stitch the flowers close together so the bouquet looks gathered by hand. Do not make long stems or oversized blooms. This accessory should feel sweet, neat, and collectible.
Folded Cloth
The small folded cloth resembles a handkerchief or market napkin. It is white with a marigold trim and a tiny central floral accent. This detail is easy to overlook, but it helps the scene feel complete and should be included for full accuracy.
- In white, ch 11.
- Row 1-9: Sc 10 across. Fasten off.
- Join marigold and work one round of sc evenly around the square.
- Optional: embroider one tiny flower near a corner or at the center before folding.
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Fold once into a neat rectangle or layered square and tack with one hidden stitch so it keeps the folded shape. The cloth should remain tiny, flat, and tidy.
Turtle Head
The companion turtle has a pale green head with glossy black eyes and a tiny white flower near its mouth. The shape is rounded and friendly, with a short neck transition into the body.
- Rnd 1: In sage green, 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
- Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Rnd 5-7: Sc around. (24)
Insert small black eyes between rounds 5 and 6. The turtle face should look calm and slightly curious. Add light stuffing. Close the back with decreases or leave a sewing edge depending on your preferred assembly style.
- Rnd 8: 2 sc, dec around. (18)
- Rnd 9: Sc around. (18)
- Rnd 10: Sc, dec around. (12)
Turtle Body Base
- Rnd 1: In sage green, 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
- Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
- Rnd 6-8: Sc around. (30)
This lower body remains flatter than the shell. Stuff lightly so it can rest low to the surface. Sew the head to the front center, slightly angled upward.
Turtle Legs Make 4
- Rnd 1: In sage green, 6 sc in MR.
- Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3-4: Sc around. (12)
- Stuff lightly and flatten the top for sewing.
Sew two legs near the front sides and two near the back sides so the turtle sits stable. The legs in the image are short and rounded, barely extending beyond the shell.
Turtle Tail
- Ch 3 in sage green.
- Starting in second ch, work 2 sc.
- Fasten off and sew to back center.
Turtle Shell
The shell is marigold and warmly rounded, with subtle ridge lines. You can create these by working a few rounds in BLO or adding light segment lines with surface crochet. The shell should cover most of the body and slope gently from front to back.
- Rnd 1: In marigold, 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
- Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
- Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
- Rnd 7-10: Sc around. (36)
Stuff the shell lightly so it stays domed. Sew over the body base, leaving the lower edge close to the legs. Add one or two curved stitched ridges if you want more shell definition.
Turtle Hat
The tiny turtle also wears a marigold hat with a very small flower accent. This hat echoes the bunny’s hat but is simpler and flatter.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
- Rnd 4-5: Sc around. (18)
- Rnd 6: BLO, 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Rnd 7: Sc around. (24)
Sew one tiny marigold flower to the side of the hat brim. Stitch the hat to the shell-head join so it stays angled forward.
Turtle Flower
The turtle appears to hold or wear a tiny white flower with a yellow center near the mouth area. Make a miniature daisy-style flower using 5 small petals and attach it with a tiny stitch so it reads clearly without overwhelming the turtle face.
- Center: 5 sc in MR with yellow.
- Petals: join white and repeat ch 2, sl st or ch 3, sl st around for tiny petals.
Assembly Order
- Sew the head to the body securely with the face centered.
- Attach the ears evenly on both sides.
- Sew the legs under the body and check standing balance.
- Attach the arms just below the shoulder line.
- Add the shoes to the feet.
- Attach the outer skirt and peplum if worked separately.
- Sew on waist flowers and the large side rose.
- Place the hat on the head and secure with a few hidden stitches.
- Complete the bag, bouquet, folded cloth, and turtle.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
After all main pieces are attached, step back and compare the silhouette from the front and side. Adjust the ears so they fall evenly, tilt the hat slightly forward, and make sure the face remains visible. Keep the nose tiny, centered, and soft. A little cheek shaping goes a long way.
Arrange the flower trims so they look clustered and natural rather than evenly flat. The waist garland should hug the peplum edge, and the hat flowers should sit in a neat crown band. Check the turtle hat angle and place the white flower where it reads clearly in profile.
Care Notes
- Keep the doll away from prolonged direct sunlight to preserve the warm marigold tones.
- Store the hat, bag, and bouquet together so small parts do not get lost.
- If giving to a child, embroider the eyes instead of using safety eyes.
- Handle the flower appliqués gently to keep petals tidy.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head centered and stable
- Ears level and evenly draped
- Hat brim balanced around the face
- Waist garland attached neatly
- Large skirt rose secured well
- Shoes matched and aligned
- Bag stands upright
- Bouquet tied neatly
- Folded cloth trimmed and folded
- Turtle shell, hat, and flower all attached
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean first using a soft cloth, cool water, and a small amount of gentle soap. Avoid soaking the doll unless absolutely necessary, especially if the hat brim or bag base contains a support insert. Press out moisture with a towel and reshape every piece before drying flat.
For long-term preservation, store the set in a clean dry container with tissue support around the hat flowers and skirt. Do not hang the bunny by the hat or ears. If dust collects, use a soft brush with light strokes. Proper storage will help the stitches stay crisp and the accessories keep their shape.
