Lavender Teacup Bunny – Crochet.

This soft bunny set is designed with a romantic spring palette, a beret, a rounded jacket, a granny-style skirt, tiny Mary Jane shoes, and a miniature shoulder purse. It has the charm of a collectible handmade doll, the look of a boutique amigurumi animal, and the polished finish many shoppers look for in heirloom nursery decor.

The matching accessories turn the set into a full display piece: a lavender teacup, a lace-style mat, a small flower bundle, and a sweet hamster companion dressed to echo the bunny. If you love artisan plush dolls, pastel cottagecore animals, and giftable crochet figures for collectors, this design brings all of those details together beautifully.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern creates a standing bunny with long floppy ears, a large round head, a softly shaped body, short sturdy legs, rounded arms, a lilac beret with a lavender motif, a puff-sleeve jacket, a paneled skirt, strap shoes, a crossbody purse, and several miniature table accessories.

The proportions in the image are important. The head is noticeably larger than the body, the ears hang low behind the shoulders, and the outfit looks tailored rather than loose. The skirt has visual weight and structure, while the jacket sits short above it and closes softly at the center front.

The finished bunny is best made with a tight gauge and firm stuffing. The fabric in the photo is smooth and even, so use a hook smaller than the yarn label suggests. This helps the doll hold its shape and gives the clothing a polished surface.

Skill Level

Intermediate, but patient beginners can absolutely make it if they work slowly and check stitch counts often. The shapes themselves are manageable. The extra time comes from careful assembly, neat clothing edges, decorative embroidery, and the tiny accessory pieces.

Materials

• Lightweight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in cream, dusty pink, soft lavender, pale lilac, muted green, deep lavender, white, tan, and a small amount of brown
• Crochet hook suitable for tight amigurumi fabric
• Black safety eyes or glossy black bead eyes
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Sewing pins
• Small scissors
• Thin cardboard or flexible plastic for optional base inserts in cup, purse, or skirt if needed

Suggested Color Plan

• C1: Cream for bunny head, body, hands, legs
• C2: Dusty pink for jacket and some shoe areas
• C3: Pale lavender for beret, skirt panels, purse, hamster clothing
• C4: Soft lilac for alternate skirt panels and trim
• C5: White or warm ivory for granny-style flower centers and edging
• C6: Muted sage green for leaves and flower stems
• C7: Medium lavender for flower petals and motifs
• C8: Tan and orange-brown for hamster
• C9: Brown for tea inside the cups

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase
• dec = decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• rnd = round

General Notes

• Work in continuous rounds unless a row is clearly stated.
• Use invisible decreases for the neatest finish.
• Stuff as you go and keep the stuffing firm but not stretched.
• Clothing should fit closely. If your tension is loose, reduce hook size.
• Pin every major piece before sewing permanently.

Finished Size

The exact size depends on yarn and tension, but the bunny should read as a medium display doll, with the hamster companion small enough to sit beside the bunny’s shoes and teacup. The accessories are tiny and decorative, yet large enough to be clearly recognizable in photographs.

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Bunny Head

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
7. Rnd 7: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
8. Rnd 8: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
9. Rnd 9: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
10. Rnd 10: 8 sc, inc around. (60)
11. Rnd 11: 9 sc, inc around. (66)
12. Rnd 12-24: sc around. (66)

Place the eyes between rounds 16 and 17 with approximately 12 visible stitches between them. In the image, the eyes sit wide apart and low enough to give the face a gentle, childlike expression. The muzzle area stays smooth rather than protruding sharply.

1. Rnd 25: 9 sc, dec around. (60)
2. Rnd 26: 8 sc, dec around. (54)
3. Rnd 27: 7 sc, dec around. (48)
4. Rnd 28: 6 sc, dec around. (42)
5. Rnd 29: 5 sc, dec around. (36)

Stuff the head firmly. The lower half should be full enough to keep the cheeks rounded. Avoid a flattened face. The finished head should look almost spherical, only slightly broader at the cheeks, matching the plush rounded look in the image.

1. Rnd 30: 4 sc, dec around. (30)
2. Rnd 31: 3 sc, dec around. (24)
3. Rnd 32: 2 sc, dec around. (18)

Fasten off only if you prefer to sew the head later. If you want a stronger join, leave a long tail and keep the neck opening small. A smaller neck opening helps support the head, which is visually large compared to the body.

Muzzle Shaping and Nose Placement

With matching cream yarn, lightly sculpt the face by entering under the chin area and drawing the thread through the eye zone if needed. Keep this very subtle. The image shows a smooth face with only a faint central definition, not a deep indented muzzle.

Embroider a tiny triangular nose in pale pink centered between the eyes, slightly below them. Add a short vertical line under the nose, then a tiny split smile. Keep it delicate. The mouth in the image is understated and soft, never exaggerated.

Eyebrows

Use a thin strand of brown or taupe yarn. Stitch one simple angled line above each eye. Each eyebrow is short and slightly tilted inward, giving the bunny a thoughtful, sweet expression. Place them high enough to preserve the wide-eyed innocence of the face.

Ears Make 2

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR with cream. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Rnd 5-8: sc around. (24)
6. Rnd 9: 10 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec. (22)
7. Rnd 10-12: sc around. (22)
8. Rnd 13: 9 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec. (20)
9. Rnd 14-16: sc around. (20)
10. Rnd 17: 8 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec. (18)
11. Rnd 18-23: sc around. (18)

Flatten the ear gently while working so it becomes slightly oval, not tubular. The ears in the image are long, soft, and relaxed. They begin wider near the head and taper gradually. Do not stuff the ears, or only add a trace amount at the base.

1. Rnd 24: 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec. (16)
2. Rnd 25-30: sc around. (16)
3. Rnd 31: 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec. (14)
4. Rnd 32-36: sc around. (14)

Fasten off, leaving long tails for sewing. Optional: line the inner front of each ear with a few surface stitches in pale blush to mimic the gentle warm tone visible inside the ears. Keep this subtle so it blends naturally.

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Body

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR with cream. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
7. Rnd 7-11: sc around. (36)

The lower body should be softly rounded, because the skirt rests over it without making the bunny look narrow. This is not a slim cone-shaped doll body. It has a cushioned, balanced trunk that supports the weight of the large head and clothing.

1. Rnd 12: 4 sc, dec around. (30)
2. Rnd 13-15: sc around. (30)
3. Rnd 16: 3 sc, dec around. (24)
4. Rnd 17-19: sc around. (24)
5. Rnd 20: 2 sc, dec around. (18)
6. Rnd 21-23: sc around. (18)

Stuff firmly, especially at the lower belly and chest. The upper body should stay compact so the jacket fits close. If desired, add a short neck extension of 2 or 3 rounds at 18 stitches for better support before attaching the head.

Legs Make 2

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR with cream. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4-6: sc around. (18)

The feet are small and rounded. They do not extend far beyond the hem, because the shoes create the visible footwear shape. Keep the base level so the bunny stands or poses evenly. Stuff the lower foot firmly and the upper leg more lightly.

1. Rnd 7: 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec. (16)
2. Rnd 8-16: sc around. (16)

Fasten off on the first leg. On the second leg, do not fasten off. Join the legs with 4 chains and continue to the body if you prefer one-piece construction, or sew the legs separately to the underside of the body. Both methods work for this design.

Arms Make 2

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR with cream. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3-4: sc around. (12)

Change to dusty pink for sleeves.

1. Rnd 5: BLO sc around. (12)
2. Rnd 6: sc around. (12)
3. Rnd 7: 3 sc, inc around. (15)
4. Rnd 8-12: sc around. (15)
5. Rnd 13: 3 sc, dec around. (12)
6. Rnd 14-16: sc around. (12)

Lightly stuff the forearm and hand area, but leave the top of the arm soft and flat for sewing. The sleeves in the image look slightly full, rounded, and gentle rather than narrow. A puffed shape helps match that appearance.

At the cuff edge, add a subtle gathered finish by stitching a round of sl st or a very mild decrease line. Do not make a dramatic ruffle. The cuffs look tidy and softly tucked in the photo.

Neck Support

Because the head is large, a neck support is helpful. Roll a small piece of felt, foam, or tightly stitched fabric tube and insert it partly into the body and partly into the head before sewing shut. This keeps the bunny upright and improves the boutique doll finish.

Beret

The beret is one of the defining details. It sits low on the head, slants slightly, and has a softly flattened top with a tiny central nub. The brim is modest and neat. It should not look oversized or floppy like a fashion hat.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR with pale lavender. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
7. Rnd 7: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
8. Rnd 8: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
9. Rnd 9: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
10. Rnd 10-14: sc around. (54)

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To form the beret’s broad top, keep the fabric smooth. Do not overstuff or line it. The hat should be soft enough to angle slightly over one ear while still holding a clean rounded profile.

1. Rnd 15: 7 sc, dec around. (48)
2. Rnd 16: 6 sc, dec around. (42)
3. Rnd 17: 5 sc, dec around. (36)
4. Rnd 18: BLO sc around. (36)
5. Rnd 19: 4 sc, dec around. (30)
6. Rnd 20: sc around. (30)
7. Rnd 21: sl st loosely around or sc around for a clean brim.

Add a tiny stem at the top by making a small knot or a 3-stitch nub. Sew the hat low across the forehead line, leaving room for the eyebrows and allowing the ears to emerge from underneath and behind the sides.

Beret Embroidered Motif

Embroider a small lavender sprig on one side front of the beret using medium lavender petals and muted green leaves. Make three short upright petal clusters and two small leaf shapes beneath them. Keep the motif compact and delicate, matching the image.

Jacket

The jacket is short, softly structured, and slightly cropped over the skirt. It has long sleeves, a rounded body, and a sweet Peter Pan collar. The front opening gently overlaps, creating the look of a tailored coat without bulky thickness.

You can make the jacket in joined rows from the neckline downward or as a shaped separate garment sewn at the shoulders. The following version is simple, beginner-friendly, and gives the correct visual result.

Jacket Yoke

1. With dusty pink, ch 30.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. (29)
3. Row 2: sc 4, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 9, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 4. Turn. (33)
4. Row 3: sc across. Turn.
5. Row 4: sc 5, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 9, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 5. Turn. (37)
6. Row 5: sc across. Turn.

Fold to check shoulder width around the upper body. The jacket should sit close but not strain. Adjust one row up or down if necessary for your tension. The image shows a neat fit, especially near the shoulders and upper chest.

Body of Jacket

Join underarm sections and continue the body in rows or rounds.

1. Row 6-12: sc evenly to create a straight jacket body that ends just above the skirt waistband.

At the lower edge, add a very subtle curved front by working one or two shorter rows at each front panel if desired. This gives the little rounded overlap visible in the image and helps the fronts sit prettily instead of hanging flat.

Sleeves

Rejoin yarn at armholes.

1. Rnd 1: work evenly around armhole.
2. Rnd 2-8: sc around, increasing slightly in the first two rounds for fullness.
3. Rnd 9-11: sc around with a gentle taper near the cuff.

The sleeves should be rounded and slightly puffed, not tight tubes. Keep them long enough to end just above the cream hands. The image shows modest fullness through the lower sleeve, giving the jacket a charming vintage silhouette.

Jacket Front Edging

Work one neat round or row of sc around the entire front opening, neckline, and lower hem. This stabilizes the shape and improves the tailored finish. Do not add buttons unless you truly want them. The image relies more on shaping than on visible hardware.

Peter Pan Collar Make 2 Halves

Work directly into the neckline or make separately and sew on. Each half should look rounded and petite, framing the neck without spreading too far onto the shoulders.

1. Ch 8.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. (7)
3. Row 2: dec, sc 3, dec. Turn. (5)
4. Row 3: sc across. Turn.
5. Row 4: dec, sc 1, dec. (3)

Fasten off, leaving tails. Make a mirror piece. Sew the collar so the inner points nearly meet at center front. The collar in the image is soft, rounded, and one of the most important details for the gentle vintage look.

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Jacket Embroidery

On one lower front area of the jacket, embroider a small lavender cluster with a green base. Keep this slightly larger than the hat motif but still refined. Use satin-like stitches or layered straight stitches to mimic a tiny floral applique without heavy raised bulk.

Skirt Waistband

The skirt sits just below the jacket and flares outward through panel construction. A granny-style look is visible on the front, with floral squares or square-inspired blocks separated by pale framing. The lower edge has a small picot-like scalloped trim.

1. With soft lavender or dusty pink, ch to fit the bunny waist snugly.
2. Join into a ring without twisting.
3. Work 3 to 4 rounds of sc to create a firm waistband.

Do not make the waistband bulky. It should support the skirt and sit smoothly under the jacket hem. The image shows the waistband as tidy and understated, with the decorative work happening below it.

Skirt Panels

You can make five or six small square-inspired panels and attach them around the waistband, or simulate them with colorwork. Separate panels give the most accurate appearance. The front view suggests alternating pastel blocks with floral motifs and pale frame lines.

Basic Floral Panel Make 5 or 6

1. Rnd 1: With ivory, 8 sc in MR or create a small flower center.
2. Rnd 2: Change to pale lavender or dusty pink and form petals with repeated ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2 clusters.
3. Rnd 3: Change to skirt ground color and square off the shape using corners.
4. Rnd 4: Work one even round in sc or hdc.

Make some panels with ivory flowers on lavender backgrounds and some with lavender flowers on cream backgrounds. This helps echo the varied patchwork look in the image while keeping the palette cohesive and soft.

Joining the Panels

Join the upper edges of the panels to the waistband, slightly overlapping or spacing them with narrow cream arches. Fill any gaps with simple sc rows or mesh-like sections so the skirt forms a complete circle. The overall silhouette should be flared but not stiff.

The front center panel in the image looks paler than the outer panels, so place the lightest floral square in the middle front. Put slightly darker lilac panels to either side for a balanced composition.

Skirt Lower Edging

1. Work one round of sc evenly around the hem.
2. Then create scallops with repeated sl st, ch 3, 2 dc in same point, ch 3, sl st in next gap.

The scallops should be tiny and regular. They are decorative but not dramatic. The image shows a sweet picot-like trim that softens the hem without pulling attention away from the floral squares.

Petticoat Layer Optional

If you want the skirt to hold its shape better, make a simple underlayer in pale cream. Work a short tube from the waistband downward and lightly flare it with increases. Keep it short enough to remain hidden behind the floral outer skirt.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are classic Mary Jane style with rounded toes, a strap across the front, and tiny lavender accents. They fit closely over the feet and give the bunny a polished dressed-doll look. They should not be oversized slippers.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR with dusty pink. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: BLO sc around. (18)
5. Rnd 5-6: sc around. (18)
6. Rnd 7: 6 sc, dec x3, 6 sc. (15)
7. Rnd 8: sc around. (15)

For the strap, attach yarn at one side of the opening, chain enough to cross the top of the foot, and secure at the other side. Add a few lavender stitches or a tiny flower detail near the outer side of each shoe.

Sew the shoes directly to the feet or stitch them around the leg after dressing. If you want them removable, keep the opening slightly flexible, but a sewn finish usually looks cleaner for a display doll.

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Crossbody Purse

The purse is small, round, and lightly flattened with a long narrow strap crossing the body diagonally. It rests at the bunny’s right side in the image and is one of the sweetest finishing details.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR with pale lavender. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4-5: sc around. (18)

Make two identical circles. Place them together and join around the edge, leaving a small opening to add a touch of stuffing or a flat insert. Close neatly. Add a tiny flap line if you want extra detail, but keep it understated.

For the strap, chain a long length and work back with sl st or sc for strength. Sew one end near the top left of the purse and the other near the top right, then position it diagonally across the bunny from shoulder to hip.

Teacup

The larger cup on the table has a pale body, lavender rim, a painted-style lavender motif, and two side handles. It reads as decorative teaware, not a mug. The proportions should feel low and gently open at the top.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR with cream. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: BLO sc around. (18)
5. Rnd 5-7: sc around. (18)
6. Rnd 8: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
7. Rnd 9: sc around. (24)

Finish the rim in pale lavender with one clean round of sl st or sc. For the handles, chain a short loop, work back in sl st, and sew to both sides. Shape them into soft outward curves like a delicate teacup.

Embroider two tiny lavender sprigs on the cup body with green leaves. Keep them low and centered. Add a flat cream circle inside the cup to suggest the interior base if desired.

Lace-Style Mat

This tiny square mat rests near the teacup and looks like a miniature lace napkin. Recreate it with thin yarn and a hook slightly smaller than usual for clean stitch definition. Openwork is important here, but keep the square stable.

1. Start with a small central square or diamond.
2. Build outward in rounds using chains, dc groups, and corner spaces.
3. Finish with a shell or picot-style edging around all four sides.

The piece in the image resembles a dainty table linen square with a lightly floral center. Focus on delicacy and symmetry rather than size. Block it carefully so the edges sit crisp and flat.

Flower Bundle

The tied flower bundle contains mostly lavender stems with a couple of pale blossoms. Make several thin green stems, then add clustered purple buds and two or three tiny cream-white flowers. Bind the stems together with tan yarn to mimic twine.

• Make 5 to 7 lavender stems from green chains stiffened with slip stitches.
• Add small bobble or picot buds in lavender and violet.
• Make 2 or 3 tiny white flowers with yellow centers if desired.
• Wrap all stems together with tan yarn and knot securely.

Hamster Companion

The hamster is a charming small companion with a rounded body, cream lower face, orange-brown upper head, tiny ears, a pale muzzle, glossy black eyes, a matching beret, a pale jacket, a skirt, and a tiny cup of tea.

Keep the hamster compact and squat, almost egg-shaped, with very small feet visible under the hem. It should look coordinated with the bunny, but simpler in detail. This contrast makes the full set visually balanced.

Hamster Head and Body as One Piece

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR with cream. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. Rnd 6-8: sc around in cream for lower face and belly. (30)

Change gradually to orange-brown across the upper half or switch the entire round and rely on placement. The image shows a cream lower face area and a warm orange-brown crown and side head area.

1. Rnd 9-13: sc around. (30)
2. Rnd 14: 3 sc, dec around. (24)
3. Rnd 15: sc around. (24)
4. Rnd 16: 2 sc, dec around. (18)
5. Rnd 17: sc around. (18)
6. Rnd 18: 1 sc, dec around. (12)

Insert eyes between rounds 9 and 10. Embroider a tiny pale pink nose and very small mouth. Stuff firmly before closing. The hamster should remain round and solid enough to sit upright on its own.

Hamster Ears Make 2

1. 6 sc in MR.
2. Join and fasten off.

Fold each ear slightly and sew high on the head. They are tiny and subtle in the image, just peeking from the sides below the beret.

Hamster Arms Make 2

1. 6 sc in MR with cream.
2. Work 3 to 4 rounds in sc.

Keep the arms tiny and curved inward as if holding a cup. Sew them close together at the front.

Hamster Feet Make 2

Make two tiny pale ovals or short nubs and sew at the base. They should barely show beneath the skirt hem.

Hamster Jacket and Skirt

Make a very small dusty pink or pale lilac jacket shape with simple rows, then add a rounded collar if desired. The hamster outfit is less elaborate than the bunny’s, but still clearly coordinated in tone and style.

For the skirt, work a short waistband and a flared lower portion in pale lavender. Keep it smooth and bell-shaped. The lower edge can have a subtle ruffle or simple round finish.

Hamster Beret

Make a miniature version of the bunny’s beret in pale lavender. It should tilt slightly and include a tiny center nub. Because the hamster is much smaller, skip the embroidered motif unless you can stitch it neatly without bulk.

Hamster Teacup

Make a tiny cream cup with one or two small handles. Add a brown circle inside to suggest tea. Sew or tack the cup into the hamster’s hands so the pose remains secure and display-ready.

Assembly Order

1. Sew the bunny legs to the body if not worked together.
2. Attach the head firmly with neck support.
3. Sew the ears behind the hat line so they hang down the sides and back.
4. Dress the bunny in the skirt, jacket, shoes, and purse.
5. Sew the beret in place last.
6. Complete the hamster and its clothing.
7. Arrange all accessories for the final display.

Positioning Details for Accuracy

• The ears should start high enough to peek from under the beret, then fall to shoulder level.
• The jacket collar should frame the neck and sit flat.
• The purse strap should cross from the bunny’s left shoulder to the right hip.
• The skirt should flare outward enough to show multiple front panels.
• The shoes should point slightly forward, not outward.

Color Balance Tips

To match the image closely, keep cream as the soft base tone and use dusty pink plus pale lavender as the dominant clothing palette. Avoid bright purple or strong pink. Everything in the photo is muted, powdery, and calm.

The green should be soft sage rather than vivid leaf green. The floral motifs look embroidered and refined, so restrained contrast is more important than intense color. The full display should feel pastel, gentle, and cottage-inspired.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Pin the head before sewing to make sure it faces straight ahead. Sew the ears so they drape evenly, then attach the beret at a slight angle. Add the eyebrows last, because a tiny change in angle can strongly affect the bunny’s expression.

Check the jacket overlap, purse length, and skirt placement before final stitching. The face should remain soft and simple: glossy black eyes, tiny pink nose, fine mouth, and light angled brows. Less detail gives the most accurate result.

Care Notes

Display pieces like this look best when handled gently. Keep the set away from rough play, sharp accessories, and heavy moisture. If the doll is meant for decoration, tack smaller pieces in place so the styling stays neat over time.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head firmly attached and balanced
• Ears even in length and placement
• Beret secured at a soft angle
• Collar symmetrical
• Skirt centered with lightest panel in front
• Shoes aligned evenly
• Purse strap sitting diagonally
• Hamster proportionally smaller and upright
• Teacups, mat, and flower bundle complete

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a barely damp cloth whenever possible. For deeper cleaning, hand wash gently in cool water with mild soap, then press in a towel to remove excess moisture. Reshape every part carefully and dry flat away from direct sunlight.

Store in a dust-free space, ideally upright in a cabinet or on a shelf. Do not hang the bunny by the ears or purse strap. If storing long term, wrap the accessories separately and keep dark colors from resting against cream sections.